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[higherlearningtvshow]

MEET THE FOUNDERS

Teens Designing & Selling Streetwear

Some high schoolers say they started their brands for the profits. Others are jumping into streetwear in pursuit of a creative outlet. A large cardboard box covered in Chinese customs labels sits in the attic of Jack Lee’s parent’s home in the Roscoe Village neighborhood on Chicago’s North Side. The lanky teenager slices into the box and produces a pair of black basketball shorts adorned with white bolts of lightning. He smiles as he traces the mesh material with his fingers.

Lee is the founder of the streetwear brand Snker Method. He is one of many high schoolers in Chicago — most of them boys — who have started their own clothing companies in recent years, selling everything from hoodies to ski masks. The teens operate out of homes in all corners of the city and its suburbs, mostly selling to their high school peers, but also shipping clothes to young people as far away as New Jersey or California. Lee’s goal is to make a million dollars in sales and eventually get hired at Nike. “I want to make a mark on the world.”

Keyon Hackle & Jacob Hunter, Designers & Classmates at "Kenwood Academy" (Photo: Manuel Martinez)

Lee, the budding businessman, sketches his designs before he sends them to his manufacturers in China. Shipping costs are a nightmare, but Lee says it’s still cheaper than manufacturing on American soil. He puts the lightning bolt shorts up on his website for $60, then immediately marks them down to $35 — a sales trick he says he doesn’t like to tell people about. Over on the South Side, designer Jamari Jackson is selling his t-shirts for $15.

Jackson has set up a pop-up shop outside Kenwood Academy High School where he is a senior. Kanye West’s Good Morning blares from a small speaker as seniors mill around the folding table Jackson set up, signing each other’s new t-shirts in rainbow-colored markers. Once class lets out, customers flood Jackson’s pop-up. One kid calls his mom to ask permission to buy one of the shirts — a white tee with the words “See No Evil” written in faded black letters on the front. Two clothing designers who also go to Kenwood show up to check out the competition.

Three Models Pose in Hoodies & Lightning Bolt Shorts Designed by Jack Lee (Photo: Allison Peevy)

Keyon Hackle and Jacob Hunter, who runs a brand named CLRVNT, did a recent pop-up of their brand, where they gave out a bunch of free clothes to students. Several months ago, the teens also gave out a bunch of free samples to their teachers, who wore their CLRVNT swag to school.“We’re only in our first year and we’ve already generated about a quarter million in sales,” Hackle says. “So I can see us on that path to making millions of dollars.” Aside from Hackle and Hunter, Jackson can name at least five other streetwear brand owners who go to Kenwood. They have a little bit of a rivalry going on.

“At the end of the day, it is a market, so there’s always naturally going to be that competition,” Jackson says. “But we kind of work around each other.” While this friendly rivalry drives Jackson, brand owner Tevence Smith over on the West Side says he’s in the streetwear market to create art. Smith runs a brand named Oswalt. His earliest designs were heavy with lightning bolts and clouds, inspired by the Greek God Zeus. But Smith says his clothes also tell the story of the Black community in Austin, the West Side neighborhood he calls home.

Student Designers at "Kenwood Academy High School" Sign Each Other’s Shirts (Photo: Manuel Martinez)

“Clothes mean a lot to us,” Smith says. “Whether it’s the way you tie your shoes, whether it’s the way you wear your pants. Clothes [are] a way to express yourself, a way to be free.”Free from the problems plaguing his people, he says, like gun violence and racism. The teen looks up to Virgil Abloh, a designer from Rockford, Illinois, who made a name for himself by melding streetwear with luxury fashion as the artistic director of menswear for Louis Vuitton.

“A lot of the clothes he makes are beyond clothes,” Smith says. “It’s art pieces. And that’s how I like to look at my clothes as well.”Abloh passed away in 2021. But Smith sometimes looks up videos of his fashion shows on YouTube for inspiration. He dreams of one day hosting his runway in Paris like Abloh did. “To know someone from a small town like Rockford can make it gives me hope,” Smith says. “It helps me keep pushing forward.” - Content Curated By Anna Savchenko

[usaclothingmanufacturerinusa]

[dippedanddripped]

At the AW20 menswear shows, Raf Simons wrapped his models up in slogan-adorned faux fur muffs, buttoned up stoles, and broad-shouldered coats; Dries Van Noten went for fake foxes draped around shoulders; and Vetements’ first show without Demna featured vintage-inspired faux fur ankle length coats, refreshed in electric blue and parakeet green.

The ranks of brands going fur-free are growing. Gucci, Coach, Versace, DKNY, Burberry, Margiela, and Prada have all pledged to ditch fur in recent years. Even Fendi, a renowned furrier, has begun to debut faux fur looks on the runway alongside the real thing. Compounding brands’ individual decisions, the British Fashion Council encouraged labels showing as part of London Fashion Week to go fur-free in 2018. Meanwhile, just yesterday, Peta announced the end of its naked celebrity-featuring anti-fur campaigns, given use of the material is dwindling among designers.

The big fur shun isn’t just contained to the fashion industry. In 2018, Oldham council banned the sale of fur on its markets and in 2019, Islington became the first London council to do the same. From 2023, the manufacture and sale of fur will be prohibited in California, as it becomes the first US state to do so. Cities such as LA, San Francisco and West Hollywood have done the same and in 2018, the Labour party vowed to ban fur imports to the UK – but sadly, we all know how that story ends.

For many, this about-turn from fur is a positive sign, a win for animals, but for others, concern surrounding the environmental implications of turning to polyester and acrylic alternatives is growing. Made in an automated process, faux fur is created using synthetic fibres which are mostly petroleum-based.

The use of plastic in a world already drowning in it is a major concern, with many anxious about faux fur coats languishing in landfill, refusing to degrade for hundreds or thousands of years (of course, one solution to that could be just: don’t throw your coats in the bin). Another major side effect of our global obsession with plastic is microfibres. 83 per cent of tap water samples taken from around the world were found to be contaminated with plastic in 2017, and in 2018 another study found 10 plastic particles per litre in bottled water too. It’s not just us ingesting plastic, though: fish and marine life do too, with an estimated 1.4 trillion microfibres floating in our oceans right now.

The fur industry in particular has taken the plastic argument and run with it, positioning faux fur as a plastic scourge on the environment and real fur as the only real natural and sustainable option. Mark Oaten, former LibDem MP (the party responsible for the ban in Oldham, incidentally) and now CEO of the International Fur Federation (IFF), voiced his concerns in an interview with WWD. “There is a lot of talk about fake fur these days,” he said, “for me it makes no sense to use a product full of chemicals and plastics when you can have a natural and biodegradable fashion item like real fur.”

“It makes no sense to use a product full of chemicals and plastics when you can have a natural and biodegradable fashion item like real fur” – Mark Oaten, CEO of the International Fur Federation

Backing up Oaten’s public stance, IFF launched a global campaign in 2018 to “highlight the colossal environmental damage caused by plastic based fake fur”, and there are some studies to support them. One 2012 report, commissioned by the International Fur Trade Federation, suggested that faux fur coats consume more non-renewable energy, have greater risk of potential impacts of global warming and greater risk of ecotoxicity impacts. Another, sponsored by Fur Europe, found that real fur biodegrades faster than faux fur. However, much like a study sponsored by Philip Morris that says smoking is good for you, they should be read with the underlying bias in mind.

In their list of fake fur’s ‘deadly credentials’, IFF pointed out that “fake fur is produced in factories from chemicals derived from fossils fuels”. What they fail to mention, though, are the many chemicals used during the processing of real fur, which include formic, hydrochloric and sulphuric acid, ammonia, formaldehyde and lead acetate, all of which are, or can be, toxic.

Unsurprisingly, given the high stakes of the real versus faux debate, for every pro-fur study, there’s an anti-fur one to match, pointing out everything from the unsustainable amount of feed it takes to produce 1kg of mink fur (aka 11 minks), to how the industry adds almost 1,000 tons of phosphorus to the environment each year.

But just as the fur industry bankrolls pro-fur studies, the ones that highlight the negatives are often sponsored by animal welfare organisations, leaving people with the feeling that they don’t know who to trust, unable to navigate the best way forward. Consumer organisations in countries such as Denmark, France, the Netherlands and England, however, have tended to lean against the claims made by the fur industry, their argument being that there simply isn’t enough empirical data to support them.

What’s lost in the who’s-more-eco debate, though, are the animals themselves. It’s their welfare, more than environmental concerns, which is often the reason for people boycotting real fur. So should those who will simply never wear it ask why they’re so worried about the synthetic alternative all of a sudden? Especially when they likely have a wardrobe full of synthetics in the form of leggings, underwear, t-shirts, dresses and most other garments you’d pick up in any high street shop.

“Currently the most bio-based faux fur on the market (KOBA) is made with only 37 per cent bio materials, then the remainder is either recycled polyester or just polyester” – Kim Canter, CEO of cult faux fur label House of Fluff

“Of course we are aware of the environmental impact of faux fur, even though we are always surprised to see the intensity of the debate when it comes to faux fur, as we are a small niche, with less impact than animal-based materials,” says Arnaud Brunois, communications manager for EcoPel, a French company which has created KOBA, the first bio-based faux fur. “The defamation campaign created by the fur lobby surely has created a very toxic conversation, as all fibres have their own issues and faux fur has never claimed some sort of perfection,” he continues. (EcoPel has also released a report on faux versus real, showing faux winning out against real on the environmental impact index).

Kym Canter, CEO of House of Fluff, a cult faux fur brand launched in 2017 that has been seen on the covers of Elle and InStyle and worn by Drew Barrymore, Sarah Harris and Oprah, agrees. “Changing the conversation and moving it away from animal welfare, which they can never win, and rebranding themselves as a natural fur alternative was an incredibly smart move,” says Canter, who previously worked as creative director for a fur brand before having a change of heart.

The likes of EcoPel and House of Fluff don’t deny their use of plastics but innovation is happening to move towards more sustainable alternatives. “This year we launched a faux fur made from 100 per cent recycled post-consumer plastic. So it’s made from old straws and bottles that are melted down, turned into a thread and rewoven,” says Canter. The brand also uses Tencel, a cellulose fibre, for lining, and recycles their factory offcuts into plush ‘Scrappies’.

Like EcoPel, Canter is currently working on a bio-based fur made from all natural materials in order to be even more sustainable. “Currently the most bio-based faux fur on the market (KOBA) is only made with 37 per cent bio materials,” she says, “and then the remainder is from either recycled polyester or just polyester. And so, we’re just trying to get a lot better on that bio-based number and hopefully bring it up to 100 per cent.” Canter hopes to bring her bio-fur to market for AW20 but until then, where do vegan, anti-plastic advocates turn?

Vintage fur is great in theory – it already exists, it won’t be using up any more resources, and it’s cheaper. But in reality, many just aren’t prepared to wear it. “I don’t wear fur as it creeps me out,” Clotilde says, while designer Becky said she tried a fur cape that had belonged to her great aunt but “felt icky just touching it”. Vivienne, meanwhile, has concerns about the stigma attached to wearing fur. “I’d worry I’d get abuse!” she says. Her concerns aren’t unfounded.

If you can’t stomach the vintage fur, faux fur as it stands is no worse than most other polyester or acrylic hanging in your wardrobe, and buying it second hand offers a more sustainable approach. But if you’re still feeling plastic-phobic, you might have to place your bets on those bio-fur innovations and hold out for the next gen of faux

[nickgerlich]

In The Fast Lane

I suppose it is only fitting to follow up yesterday’s blog about trendy spendy outdoor clothier Patagonia and its beneficent founder, with a look at the absolute opposite end of the spectrum. For the price of one nice garment from Patagonia, you could easily scoop ten items from Shein, the insanely popular Chinese online retailer.

Zàijiàn (goodbye), well-made timeless fashions from a company with a conscience, and hello fast fashion. Who cares if you wear it once—maybe twice—before it falls apart? It’s all about having the right look at the right time.

And now Shein—it really is pronounced with two syllables, and does not sound like “shine”)—is adding two more US distribution centers to its first one in Indiana, in an effort to cut down on the single biggest problem they have had all along: two-week delivery times from China.

The new DCs will be in California in 2023, and somewhere in the Northeast at an unannounced date.

Shein is now the top shopping app in the US, beating out even Amazon. Interestingly, its products are also available at their own “store” on Amazon. They have opened short-term pop-up shops in major US cities, teasing shoppers that they may be considering a BAM presence.



But the most critical element of fast fashion comes before solving the shipping problem, and that is truly putting the “fast” into fast fashion. It’s not just delivery; it is creating and manufacturing the garments in the first place. They source garments from hundreds of Chinese manufacturers, which, in my mind, conjures visions of sweatshops working 24/7. Shein relies on computer algorithms to monitor worldwide trends, and then pounce on them. It adds thousands of new items to its website each week, sometimes as many as 2000 in one day.

I doubt that Patagonia has had that many products in the last 10 years.

While Shein is known far and wide as a women’s clothing seller, it does sell menswear. It’s just that it’s rather understated. But then again, most retailers I know who sell both usually wind up putting the guys’ stuff off in corner somewhere, whether in a store or online. We just not as interested as the ladies, I guess.

It’s kind of like being trapped into going to Lush, the fragrance-forward retailer of bath and beauty products with your female S/O or daughters. They have a gratuitous little display of men’s shaving soaps and grooming items, but unless you knew those are there, you would miss them. Trust me, I know. And the whole place just makes my nostrils flare. I can’t wait to get out.

Shein has enjoyed meteoric popularity since its launch in 2016, with global sales approaching US$16 billion last year. But sales growth rates, just like fireworks ascending the night sky, have slowed. You can only grow at 250% per annum for so long, you know. The denominator will eventually catch up to you.

The popularity of cheap fast fashion has caused many sleepless nights for US clothiers selling higher-priced items. But Shein’s target market—both women and men—is not your typical middle-aged office worker who needs timeless garments that will last for years. No, its target is younger adults and teens more interested in looking on fleek.

Holy crap. I never thought I would use that phrase. Does it make me cool now?

When I was younger, looking stylish was far more important than it is now. But from my position now in middle-youth—I keep telling myself that—I’d rather just have clothes that will stand the test of time. Well, as long as my weight stays even. I’m happy paying more for things that will last, that won’t fall apart in the washer.

Of course, maybe it is also that once you start aging, no one expects much from you, and you are just passed off as old. It’s the subtle discrimination of low expectations. And maybe I am just taking advantage of that. It’s nice not having to be on the fashion treadmill, worrying about being September instead of June.

More power to Shein, though, because they have mastered their trade. IPO anyone? I don’t have to buy the stuff to have a piece of the action. Besides, I think I look pretty good in green.

Dr “Fashionably Unfashionable“ Gerlich

Audio Blog

[thomsonsharon347]

Trendy spring fashions for men's in 2022 you should invest

The concept of tailored clothing pieces well between the cracks when the revolution of sportswear took over. However, for the lovers of Sauvé and sophisticated clothing pieces, 2020 is definitely going to be year for you. https://www.usaclothingmanufacturers.com/tag/menswear-manufacturer-in-california/

[putthison]

Ten Great Sneakers for Spring

The weather is starting to heat up again in California, reminding me it’s almost time for camp collar shirts and washed denim jeans. Every time spring rolls around, I think about picking up a new pair of sneakers. While I love traditional welted footwear, sometimes sneakers go better with casual clothes than leather shoes of any stripe. 

If you’re looking to expand your sneaker wardrobe a bit, here are a few I’ve been eyeing. Some are on the expensive side (such as the Vors), while others are reasonably priced around $100 or so. From mainstream lines to niche labels, here are ten great sneakers for spring.

Spalwart Marathon Trail Low ($159+): In the 1970s, shortly after Japan fell in love with Ivy Style, people in Japan noticed American college students were no longer wearing neckties with tweed jackets to classes. Instead, many were repurposing outdoor brands such as Sierra Designs and Eddie Bauer into their everyday attire. Certainly, the oxford-cloth button-down remained popular, but instead of hook-vent sport coats and striped rep neckwear, students were wearing 60/ 40 parkas, Levi’s jeans, and Champion sweatshirts.

The look has been described as Rugged Ivy, and if you gravitate towards that sort of thing, you’ll love Spalwart’s Marathon Trail Lows. They take after classic running shoes from that era, but give them a funkier style with a treaded outsole. They’re a bit flimsy in terms of construction, but still durable and supremely comfortable -- especially on hot days. You can find them on sale right now at End.

Vor 2B Mid-Tops ($415): Vor’s sneakers are painfully expensive, although not out-of-line with top-tier brands such as Common Projects. That said, I love these mid-top basketball shoes. They’re a bit better made than your average pair of Air Force 1s, while still having that casual style that looks good with nearly anything short of tailored clothing. You can wear these with jeans and fatigues, topcoats and field jackets. They’d also look great with washed denim and a sweatshirt. The company also has basketball-styled low-tops. 

Nike Air Max 97 Silver Bullets (~$200): Before everyone was all about chunky sneakers, Nike’s Air Max 97 sat on shelves forever because its inflated silhouette. Now it seems downright conservative next to Balenciaga’s Triple S. The design of the AM97 was inspired by Japanese bullet trains and the ribbed lines give the shoes an almost futuristic look. I think they look great under olive fatigues or shorts. You can find them floating around StockX for about $200 (StockX is an online trading site for hard-to-find shoes. They connect buyers and sellers directly, but also authenticate sneakers before shipping to make sure you’re not getting fakes). 

Doek Oxford ($170): Last year’s coming-of-age drama, Call Me By Your Name, is full of the kind of summer-style that has made brands such as Ralph Lauren famous. Loosely cut oxford shirts, simple chinos, and pique cotton polos. The shorts are ... pretty short ... and shirts are often unbuttoned low. The looks are simple, slightly preppy, and easy to adopt. If you take after that kind of thing, check out Doak’s balmoral-style tennis shoes, which are made from a hefty cotton canvas and vulcanized outsole. They’re on the expensive side of things (Vans and Superga are affordable alternatives), but they look a bit better than your average pair of kicks. Just spray them with Scotchgard before wearing so they’re protected from stains.

Novesta Marathon ($195): There’s never been a wider range of sneakers inspired by classic ‘70s and ‘80s running shoes. Even luxury brands such as Tom Ford, Loro Piana, and Tod’s are getting on the look (and none of them are as good as the non-lux versions). Novesta is the in-house label for a Slovakian factory that’s historically done private label manufacturing for other companies. And like many factories, they’ve developed their own brand in order to sell directly to customers. In the last few years, they’ve done two collaborations with Comme des Garcons and gotten picked up by some leading menswear boutiques. I like their Marathon runners, which are a bit more conservatively styled than the Spalwarts mentioned above. For an affordable alternative, check Greats. 

Vans Anaheim Slip-Ons ($75): Truth be told, I almost always just end up wearing my Engineered Garments x Vans slip-ons every spring -- mostly out of sheer laziness since they’re so easy to put on. Their mismatched uppers make them look a bit more interesting than Vans’ regular slip-ons (although those are great too). The only downside is that they’re hard to find and only available through Nepenthes when available. For something similar, check out these sueded Anaheim or hairy suede slip-ons. The fact that the uppers aren’t mismatched like the EG version means you won’t spend half your summer explaining that, no, you didn’t accidentally walk out the house this way. And yes, this is the fashion now. Ughhh, mom. 

Standard & Strange x TSPR Hi-Tops ($175): Chuck Taylors are some of my all-time favorite sneakers, but they’re ... everywhere. For something slightly more unique, but still classically styled, I like these canvas high-tops from Standard & Strange. They’re made in Japan from densely woven canvas uppers and vulcanized rubber soles. And I think they’d look great with workwear. A good substitute for work boots in the summer when it’s too hot to wear heavy footwear, but also rugged enough to go with raw denim jeans. They kind of remind me of a Nigel Cabourn collaboration with Converse a few years back, which I sadly missed out on.

Adidas Army Shoes ($105): If German Army Trainers (or GATs for short) seem new but familiar, that’s because the two brothers who invented them would later go on to launch Adidas and Puma -- two classic sneaker companies that often make shoes bearing a familial resemblance to GATs. German soldiers also used to wear these to the gym in the 1970s, which is how the style got its name. We’ve long endorsed the originals, but they’re hard to find and require you to go through a proxy service (try searching Grailed). Last year, however, Adidas came out with their version. A lot easier to buy.

Nike Air Max 180 ($130): Pete mentioned these a few weeks ago, and I’m just co-signing. They look absolutely great. These Tide Pod looking joints were originally released in the early ‘90s, and with the decade’s revival in full swing, they feel fresh again (see what I did there?). I like how the playful colorway goes with washed denim and sweatshirts, or with darker jeans and topcoats come fall. Delicious looking. 

Drake’s Gym Classics ($215): I love Drake’s for their ability to always put a new spin on classic style, but in a way that feels tasteful. These classic gym shoes were made in Japan and feature a hefty rubber toe cap. A bit like Jack Purcells, but better looking. Like some of the other options on this list, these sneakers have a vulcanized rubber sole. That means the soles are glued to the uppers with a wrapped piece of rubber tape, then baked in a kiln like pottery. This seals the sole, tape, and uppers together. Not necessarily exclusive technology to this Japanese factory, but cool. 

[konig369]

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Facts About Men clothing Revealed

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Nowadays, dress boots are most often made by shoemakers in the united kingdom and Europe, which isn't shocking supplied the fact that Chelsea boots have been popularized in Britain during the '60s.

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[loveartfashionme]

2016 was my last year of college, I was fortunate enough to be able to collaborate with the artist @stuff_manny_does to create a really cool menswear collection. Afterwards I struggled to find a good way to manufacture the shirts as the Fabric had to be custom printed and gave me very little yield. Still I wanted to find away to share this art with the world. I'm very proud to announce I am doing just that. The black long sleeve dress shirt you see here is available to purchase on a made to order basis. It's $80 and customized to your size. The shirt on the right is shares the same print for only $36.50 about half what my dress shirt costs. Contact me here or click this pic to place an order. You will be supporting not one, but two artists working on this project. This is just the tip of the iceberg, more to come 😉 . . .#bassplayer #bassslap #standingbass #doublebass #uprightbass #bass #comiccouture #basscomic #rockabillydude #psychobilly #rockabilly #dapperdude #dapperdans #psycobillystyle (at Yuba City, California) https://www.instagram.com/p/CDUsw0upinI/?igshid=qnjyl6fjc5ji

[agilenano]

Agilenano - News: Four Lawsuits, Corporate "Bullying," and an Alleged Pattern of Rampant Copying: The History of Nike v

Skechers image: TFL In the $62.5 billion-plus global sneaker market, the competition is fierce, the costs associated with the intensive research and development that goes into designing and manufacturing footwear are high, and the revenues that can be generated from single styles collections can race past the $1 billion mark for standouts like Nike’s Flyknits or adidas’ Stan Smith and the Superstar models. This means that the stakes are high amongst the market’s key players, and the chance that litigation will come into play among them is even higher.  Nike and adidas have long made headlines in connection with their history of legal battles, centering on their respective knitted technologies, for instance, which spawned an international battle beginning at the very same time as he London Olympics in 2012, and while there is likely no end in sight to the fights they wage against one another in their quest to outfit consumers across the globe, another rivalry has been spilling over into the courts: Nike versus Skechers.  In the lawsuit that it filed against Skechers in a federal court in California in September, Nike told the judge that the case was not the first of its kind, just as it was “not the first time Skechers has infringed its intellectual property rights.” Accusing Skechers of copying a number of its sneaker designs and thereby, infringing two of its utility patents, counsel for Nike declared that the case is actually “the fourth in a series of lawsuits that Nike, and its subsidiary Converse Inc., have filed against Skechers asserting a range of intellectual property rights.”  In filing suit against Skechers this fall, Nike has escalated another relatively recently-initiated fight against its Southern California-based rival, and added yet another matter to a larger – and clearly still growing – list of proceedings that Nike has said stem from Skechers’ larger pattern of allegedly “copying its competitors’ designs and using innovative technologies developed by others to gain market share instead of innovating its own designs and technologies.”  In Skechers’ mind, Nike’s latest litigation was the latest attempt by the $150 billion-plus sportswear giant to “stifle competition” and “bully” its rivals. This is what Skechers asserted in an open letter that it posted to social media in the fall of 2019. A timeline of their respective lawsuits – and other legal proceedings –  is as follows …  October 2014 Nike-owned Converse sued Skechers (and 30 or so other companies, including New Balance, Walmart and Ralph Lauren, among others, in individual cases) in federal court in Brooklyn, New York – in which it sought injunctive relief and monetary damages – and in an International Trade Commission (“ITC”) proceeding, seeking an order barring the defendants from importing the allegedly infringing footwear into the U.S. In both sets of cases, Converse alleged that the more than 2 dozen companies, including Skechers, were “mass-producing, distributing or selling sneakers that knock off the look of [its] iconic Chuck Taylor,” thereby running afoul of its trademark rights. As for Skechers, adidas claimed that the company’s Twinkle Toes and BOBS designs infringed its trademark – or more specifically, its trade dress – rights in various elements that make up the design of its famed Chuck Taylor sneakers, from its “distinctive” toe caps and toe bumpers to its striped midsoles. While the majority of the footwear companies on the opposite end of adidas’ civil suits and the ITC proceeding have settled quietly, the matters against Skechers are still underway.   January 2016 Nike knitted sneaker (left) & Skechers knitted sneaker (right) In the patent infringement suit that it filed in federal court in Portland, Oregon in early 2016, Nike asserted that a number of Skechers’ footwear – including its “Burst, Women’s Flex Appeal, Men’s Flex Advantage, Girl’s Skech Appeal, and Boy’s Flex Advantage” shoe styles – infringe at least eight of its Flyknit-specific design patents given that the "overall appearance of the designs of the Nike patents and the corresponding designs of Skechers' infringing shoes are substantially the same.”  According to its 14-page complaint, which was supplemented with nearly 200 pages of exhibits, counsel for Nike alleged that “Skechers intended to copy the designs covered by [its] patents” and did so to the point that “an ordinary observer would will perceive” the design of the two parties’ respective shoes to be the same. To prove its point, Nike cited an article from menswear site Complex, which “describes the Skechers’ Burst shoes as having ‘ripped off’ Nike’s ‘Flyknit’ design.’”  That case, which was transferred from a federal district court in Oregon to the U.S. District Court for the Central District of California in November 2017, is still underway, with Skechers filing its answer, as well as counterclaims of its own, early this year, asking the court to declare that it did not infringe Nike’s patents, and to declare that 12 of Nike’s patents are invalid “for failing to comply with the patent law provisions” of the Patent Act.  April and May 2016 In the wake of Nike’s design patent infringement lawsuit, Skechers retaliated against the Beaverton-based sportswear giant by filing inter partes review (“IPR”) petitions with the U.S. Patent Trial and Appeal Board (“PTAB”) in order to invalidate the eight design patents that Nike claims Skechers infringed in the aforementioned lawsuit. The basis for these filings? The individual patents do not meet the requirements for patentability (i.e., the inventions are not novel and/or non-obviousness).  In September and November 2016, the PTAB – which has the ability to refuse to institute an IPR proceeding if it finds that the challenger’s request lacks substantive merit – denied each of Skechers petitions, including one that pointed to Italian fashion brand Missoni’s zig-zag print designs, which date back to the 1950s, as existing long before Nike created its Flyknit designs and filed its corresponding patent applications, making it so that Nike’s knit-centric creations are not all that novel. (Novelty is a critical requirement for patent protection).  January 2017 Skechers filed several additional IPR petitions, including ones challenging Nike’s design patent-protected knitted “shoe uppers.”  This time around, while the PTAB again refused the majority of Skechers’ petitions, it agreed to consider two of them, both of focused on the validity of Nike’s design patents for sneaker soles (D723,781 and D723,783). Skechers claimed that the two “shoe sole” patents were invalid because they were “obvious” as a result of Nike’s own prior filings, including a European Community Design registration and two previously-filed utility patent applications. In June 2018, a 3-judge panel for the PTAB rejected Skechers invalidity challenges and upheld the validity of Nike’s patents.  September 2019 In a design patent infringement complaint filed in the fall, Nike upped the ante on the parties’ existing fight, and called foul on Skechers’ continued practice of allegedly manufacturing “Skecherized versions” of Nike sneakers, including blatant replicas of its VaporMax and Air Max 270 designs, paying specific attention to its rival’s alleged hijacking of its Air Sole technology, which Nike says that it spent decades creating.   According to its 37-page complaint, which was filed on September 30 in the U.S. District Court for the Central District of California, Nike alleges that in selling its Skech-Air Atlas, Skech-Air 92, Skech-Air Stratus, and the Skech-Air Blast models, among others, Skechers has “made, used, offered for sale, sold, and/or imported into the U.S.” shoes that have “the same overall appearance [as those protected by its] VaporMax patents,” and that infringe the some of the patents it holds for its Air Max 270 designs.  Skechers’ allegedly infringing sneakers “are substantially the same” as Nike’s patent-protected sneakers, the footwear titan asserts, so much so that “an ordinary observer will perceive the overall appearance of … the VaporMax [and the Air Max 270] shoes and the corresponding designs of the [Skechers] shoes” to be virtually the same.  In its January 7, 2020 response to Nike’s suit, Skechers denies that it has infringed Nike’s patents and asserts that even if it did, Nike’s patents are invalid, and thus, unenforceable. In counterclaims of its own, Skechers is seeking a formal judgment from the court declaring that the patents that Nike cites in its complaint are invalid and that it has not infringed the patents at issue. October 2019 In a separate patent lawsuit that it filed against Skechers just weeks later, Nike claims that Skechers is also on the hook for infringing two of its utility patents. According to Nike, Skechers’ Skech-Air Jumpin’ Dots and Skech-Air Mega shoes infringe claims contained in two of its utility patents – one that protects “an article of footwear” with an emphasis on the cushioning cavity that exists in the midsole of the shoe (Patent No. 10,098,412), and another that covers the “sole component [of a sneaker] and a method of manufacturing the sole component” (Patent No. 7,401,420).   “Without Nike’s authorization, Skechers has made, used, offered for sale, sold, and/or imported into the U.S.” shoes that infringe a number of claims protected by the 412 and 420 patents, according to Nike, as they include the same “sole structure incorporating a fluid-filled bladder and a reinforcing structure secured to the bladder,” “a cavity disposed between the upper and the outsole,” and a “plurality of protrusions [that] progressively decrease in height from the first protrusion to the forward-most edge of the article of footwear,” among other things.

Agilenano - News from Agilenano from shopsnetwork (4 sites) https://agilenano.com/blogs/news/four-lawsuits-corporate-bullying-and-an-alleged-pattern-of-rampant-copying-the-history-of-nike-v

[sssourabh]

“Design is thinking made visual.”

My first major trip of 2020 was to San Francisco, a favorite culinary city, and I was thrilled to find myself in the newly renovated The Clift Royal Sonesta Hotel, which I had indulged in previously when it was a wonderland of its own historic charm. In a geotagged world of growing dots and pins, location is clearly the pedestal of more than just real estate and with views of the topography of Union Square and Tenderloin, the hotel was a true testament that you cannot say party without saying art. And thus began my exploration of it’s history themed upgrade which unraveled many factoids.

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Fun fact: epic mixology aside, the sparkling @redwoodroom of @theclift #SanFrancisco is made entirely of one redwood tree! 🤩

A post shared by The Saccharine Habit (@foodbysssourabh) on Feb 20, 2020 at 8:32am PST

Built to house visitors to the Panama-Pacific International Expansion in 1915 to celebrate the completion of the Panama Canal, it’s no surprise that the inspiration came from a historic Pacific Heights home designed by George A. Applegarth who had conceived the original Clift, and chose this as a basis to give the hotel a residential tonality. My favorite spaces were the lobbies and hallways, which were bright and airy, akin to an amphitheater. As a nod to the era, the oakwood was one typically used on ships out in the Bay, relaying a longing for adventures at sea. The most intriguing were the accessories and art pieces chosen for decor: a disheveled mirror which was perhaps a nod to the fault lines below California, placed by the elevators for a curious selfie moment. There was also a deceptive visual of a 1920s man broken by panel movement, and of course, the iconic oversized chair which was a playground for all guests and accomplices.

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don’t grow up, it’s a trap 🙃🪑👦🦋 @theclift @sonestahotels #SanFrancisco … channeling #PeterPan in a Panama/Pacific set up

A post shared by sssourabh (@sssourabh) on Feb 2, 2020 at 11:18am PST

I preferred using the immaculately monochrome Alice in Wonderland style stairway to ascend and descend through the hallways to my room. There were residential in tone, but with a very calculated design aesthetic. There were many personalized photographs different on each floor, and my favorite was a corner stairwell with half an arch and half a stair, almost like the gallows of a ship.

Come evening, I would sway down to the legendary Redwood Room, which retained much of its historical significance. The new bar area was manufactured from an 800-year-old redwood tree found by our custom millworker in Montana, giving the entire space a golden rouge glow. The bar itself was glinting with options that were fit to determine one’s destiny for the night. My sins were doubled, with a sweet sip of the Lillet Spritz with Lillet Rose, Prosecco and Club Soda, a bubbly prelude to the night. My favorite was my nod to Italy with the sumptuous House Negroni (invented in Florence!) with Sipsmith Gin, Martini Bitters and Sweet Vermouth, which was smoother than it was strong, and left me glowing in the radiance of the ambiance, courtesy of the glinting bar wall of infinite possibilities.

With a testament to a subdued atmosphere and a juxtaposition of contemporary and vintage style which is unsurpassed in the colorful city, the hotel lived up to its promise of being a cozy and fulfilling home away from home in San Francisco.

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… don’t believe everything you overthink 🖼🖋 #OpticalIllusion #LuxuryTravel #ArtLovers @theclift #SanFrancisco

A post shared by sssourabh (@sssourabh) on Feb 3, 2020 at 5:32am PST

Architecture is Just the Art We Live In: The Clift #SanFrancisco. #LuxuryHotel “Design is thinking made visual.” My first major trip of 2020 was to San Francisco, a favorite culinary city, and I was thrilled to find myself in the newly renovated…

[dippedanddripped]

When you think of fashion capitals around the world, the obvious always pops up: Paris, London, Milan, Tokyo, New York. But with a new decade upon us, Los Angeles is staking its claim as a creative force in fashion.

If the ‘70s through early ‘90s was a golden age of the city’s fashion scene, the early aughts took an unfortunate turn when L.A. “style” became synonymous with trucker hats, Ugg boots, and Juicy Couture velour tracksuits. Now, there’s an optimism and an easeful elegance defining the city’s most beloved labels. So much so, that New York-based talent is frequently flocking west for a new point of view under the endless sun and towering palm trees.

But Angelinos have more than New Yorkers to thank for the city’s sartorial rehab and rebirth – it’s largely due to a new generation of designers committed to local production and craftsmanship and taking a grassroots approach to brand-building. From the likes of John Elliott, Amiri, Fear of God, Matias, Les Tien, Elder Statesmen, Rhude, Outerknown and countless other menswear brands that were born in L.A. over the last decade, the community is thriving.

To dive deeper into this phenomenon, MR traveled to Los Angeles to speak with both native designers and ones who have relocated their operations to Tinseltown. We also made sure to stop by as many retailers as we could, although we know we did not make a reasonable dent, as the retail scene in L.A. is growing more and more each day. In fact, with every person we spoke to, we learned of yet another cool vintage store, men’s shop or concept retailer that we had to speak to, but time was our enemy. Nonetheless, we gathered a solid group to help us investigate what’s really going on in the City of Angels.

WHY ARE CREATIVES FLOCKING TO L.A.?

Our first stop, once we landed, was West Hollywood mainstay, Fred Segal Sunset. We met with the retailer’s vice president of men’s merchandising Brian Nyilas, who just so happens to be a former New Yorker. “L.A. is hot right now, not just in temperature,” he says. (Editor’s note: we were visiting in late October when it was around 90 degrees outside). “Nowadays, you can plug in and work anywhere in the world with the help of technology, and this notion has brought incredible people here in recent years from all types of industries. I mean, why wouldn’t you? The weather, versatility of landscapes from beach to mountains, iconic landmarks, and the thriving local economy.”

Nyilas does notes that there is a downside to all of this migration with the increasing prices in real estate and the new influx of more cars, which lead to, you guessed it, traffic congestion.

Later that day we caught up with another former New Yorker, Paul Witt at his downtown Arts District store called Wittmore. He entered L.A. retail through a pop-up shop inside the former shop that Liberty Fairs owned. Witt was only supposed to stay for four weeks, but it quickly turned into a three-month stint and before he knew it, he had his own shop on W. Third Street. Six months later he packed up his condo in Hoboken, New Jersey and hasn’t moved back since.

Witt says that he personally moved out here because he saw the revitalization happening in design, interior, culture, and art and he really wanted to go for it. “I said, let’s just try it and see what happens. If I fail, then at least I took a chance.” And that chance has paid off. Since the opening of his Third Street store, Witt has gone on to open two more stores in L.A., one in the Arts District downtown and another in Malibu.

Moving on to the brand side, just two blocks away from Wittmore’s Arts District location resides the showroom and office of emerging brand BTFL. Co-creative director Alejandro Rodriguez was quick to point out to MR that while he is a native Angelino, he initially tried to start a brand in New York. “I started as an intern at 7 For All Mankind and was also painting sneakers for hip hop artists and celebrities, Rodriguez tells us. “Then a lady approached me to pay for me to come to New York if I help her kid learn about design. Now, as crazy as that sounds, I did it. I found this one factory in the Garment District in midtown that worked with Ralph Lauren, so he seemed legit. But this was around the same time of peak Rocawear and Sean John, so my samples ended up coming back to me in a 4XL, and I knew then that I was going to have issues trying to launch something there.”

“Now, as an established brand back in L.A., all of my factories are supporting me and wanting me to succeed,” Rodriguez continued. “I feel like the manufacturers out here are more willing to work with young designers on their concepts, rather than just turning out what’s hot at the moment.”

For Scott Studenberg, the creative director of fashion label Baja East, the love out West was only a matter of time. He has family in San Diego and has been visiting southern California ever since he was a child. Studenberg felt so drawn to the area that he even started getting tattoos of palm trees, and coined the Instagram handle @scottlovespalmtrees. But, as his business grew, it got more difficult to manage from New York (the brand has always done a majority of its production in L.A.)

Studenberg made the leap and moved out to L.A. two years ago. “We were already producing about 60 percent of the collection out here – my knitwear, wovens, sweatshirts, and terry are all out here,” he told us during a visit to his Laurel Canyon home and studio. “I used to be able to work with our factories via FaceTime, but it just got to be too difficult. Now I can see them whenever I want.

Another New York designer who has made the move, at least partially, to L.A. is Shane Fonner of Palmiers du Mal. He has been living the bi-coastal dream for about two years now and is loving every minute of it. “I have been living n New York for the past 18 years, and if you just look at the sheer physicality of the city, it’s very vertical, and a bit closed in upon, with an obvious lack of nature,” Fonner says. “When I was younger, I could deal with that, but as I got older I was craving space. And in L.A. you can still find a studio to be creative in that isn’t going to break the bank all the while being in a more horizontal, spread-out city.”

“L.A. is a city of optimism,” says BLDWN’s menswear designer Joe Sadler. “The quality of life here is genuinely one of the best in the world. It’s beaches, mountains, cultural diversity and a relaxed mindset put designers at ease. It’s much easier to create when you feel at peace and connected to your environment no matter where you are in the world. California, in general, has always been progressive, adventurous, and inclusive. Designers thrive here.”

For Outerknown co-founder and creative director John Moore, there has always been a great community of artists and designers in the city. But, what’s changed over the years is that other cities are taking L.A. more seriously. He credits this to the recession of 2008 when real estate plummeted, a lot of creatives lost their jobs, and were looking for their next gig. Many of these “lost” artists made their way to L.A. because there were still great spaces, like his brand’s space in Culver City, that was affordable.

“It used to be that New York would be the place I would go when I could scrape together enough money for an inspiration trip,” Moore says. “I would see a little bit of everything and I thought it had the best retail in the world. Now, I can confidently say that Los Angeles would give any global city a run for its money. I still love visiting my friends in New York, but they are quicker trips now. I would much rather go to Tokyo where it seems to still have more of a pulse on what’s next.”

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN RETAIL?

“I couldn’t tell you that there hasn’t been anything but disruption in the past five years in retail here in Los Angeles,” Mark Werts, the CEO of American Rag declared as we ate lunch at his store’s fabulous restaurant. “What’s going on here, and globally, is a mirror of the advancement of technology, a growing number of choices of where people can buy items, political ideas, and cultural ideas. On top of this, the new generation coming up is concentrating more on sustainability so they have a different point of view of how retail should be.”

Werts considers his store as “entertainment retail. “If you don’t create a reason for someone to get off the couch and get in their car to visit your store, then no one will come. It’s that simple,” he says. And, boy, has he created a reason? From antiques to pottery and home goods from all over the world, to vintage fashion, shoes, denim, and a great café, it’s hard to not find a reason to visit American Rag. Werts also noted that he has taken his concept internationally with a location in Dubai, and soon Abu Dhabi. Those locations are amped up even more with the latest technology from smart mirrors to talking robots that greet you at the entrance.

More disruption has come to the city with the movement away from shopping be centered around main boulevards, like Robertson and Melrose, to more of a “destination” model. Almost everyone we spoke with on our trip noted the opening of Dover Street Market in a non-descript part of downtown L.A. that made it okay for other retailers, who didn’t want to be in the now overly commercial shopping hubs, to open stores in other locations that aren’t traditionally associated with fashion. Now you can find great menswear stores in neighborhoods not normally associated with your typical hubs. Sure, West Hollywood, Mid-City, Beverly Hills, Venice, and Malibu are still the major players, but brands and retailers are opening stores in more “local” neighborhoods like downtown, Silverlake, and even Manhattan Beach and Pasadena.

“I think social media has such a big part in what’s happening and why destination retail is becoming so successful,” says Abby Schwartz, the men’s buyer at Ron Herman. “Stores can build a great brand online and create a great turnout without having to be in traditional neighborhoods for shopping in this city. The days of seeing lines outside of stores, may not happen as frequently as it once did, but I still see it. I believe stores that are pushing events and activations to build a community and lifestyle around their store are the successful ones.”

For Witt, he has built his destination store locations around the communities they reside in. “There are 450 apartments in the same complex as this store (Arts District), with 700 more apartments being built across the street,” he says. “Coupled with the top architecture school in the country, SCI-Arc being just across the way, too, there are a lot of potential customers coming through here.” Witt also noted that in the case of his new Malibu location, locals and tourists alike are loving the mom-and-pop feel of his store that offers a larger range of quirky fashion pieces than his other two stores.

And for Fred Segal, it has focused on the curation of the best brands in the business and letting those brands have a say in what their merchandise looks on the sales floor. Nyilas gave us an example of one model where a retailer will essentially lease floor space and merchandise the environment with the product the store buys and gets to set the design (within reason) of that space. He also pointed out his Kith shop on the lower level of the retailer’s Sunset flagship store. Nyilas says when Kith was interested in exploring the L.A. market, they came together with the alignment of similar visions of what retail can be, not about how can we compete with each other.

WHAT’S GOING ON WITH MANUFACTURING?

This topic is the only one where our group of designers and retailers could not agree. Some suggested that the quality of the products being produced in the city isn’t up to par with items being made in Italy or even the Garment District in New York (which also has to do with the shortage of sewers in America). Others argue, that the industry is thriving in the denim and cut-and-sew knit market (the cities bread and butter), but there is still more work to be done to improve infrastructure in order to produce other types of locally-made garments.

What our panel can agree on is that sewing jobs are largely filled by immigrants from Latin America and Asia who little to no training, which can hurt the quality of the production. And, the crackdown on immigration by our administration is hindering the development of this workforce. Especially since most American citizens today don’t want to pursue sewing as a profession. Werts of American Rag brilliantly said, “American kids today want to be YouTube stars, while other kids in foreign countries are dreaming of moving here to become engineers and scientists.” A sign of the times, indeed.

BTFL’s Rodriguez has also noticed a decrease in resources that have contributed to the hard times factories are under. “Factories are shutting down more frequently recently, which, to me, doesn’t make sense since there are more people trying to make clothes here,” he says. “But even the fabric shows, like the LA Textile show, which used to fill the whole 13th floor of the California Mart with fabrics from Italy, Japan, Turkey, etc. I went recently and it was smaller than half the original size. Everybody says L.A. is the new fashion capital, but why isn’t there being more money and more resources put in to sustain this growth?”

Some designers have taken matters into their own hands and started their own in-house workshop, like Matias Sandoval, founder of his eponymous denim brand Matias based in Gardena, CA. “There are still hundreds of sewing contractors, washhouses, machine shops, fabric stores – so many of these dedicated to the denim manufacturing market,” he declares. “But, we decided to do everything in-house at my studio to control the quality and workflow. Plus, it gives us the flexibility to sneak in custom pieces when we need to, but starting out, having this infrastructure was crucial.  You can literally find someone that can make anything here.”

Through our research, we were able to get in contact with one local factory in downtown L.A. that specializes in luxury fashion knits called PDR Knitting. The operation is run by Evita Chu, who started her business by accident (quite literally) 13 years ago when a severe car accident caused her to have to quit her design job and stay home to recover. While she was home, a friend of Chu’s asked her to knit a few sweaters, and they were a hit. Through word of mouth, and several trial and error milestones, Chu now boasts a client roster ranging from fashion clients like the artist Sterling Ruby (who launched his own brand in 2018 called SR Studio LA CA), Fear of God, Reese Cooper, Camp High, Baja East, Grei New York, to home goods and even dog sweaters.

Chu confidently says that she is one of only two or three luxury knitwear producers in the entire United States. Her secret to success is her willingness to work with individual clients on out of the box ideas. She researches their collection and concept, then will direct them to a specific yarn and technique that would be appropriate for their collection. And magic is born.

So, what does all of this mean? It means that L.A. is a place where creatives can thrive through no shortage of opportunities that await them. Will we start saying, “If you can make it in Los Angeles, you can make it anywhere?” We’re not sure, but we can be sure that if nothing else, go explore and get inspired on how you can reinvigorate your own business. Whatever that may be.

[jamesgambleposts-blog]

Global Menswear Market Global Opportunities, Outlook & Forecast to 2024

Global Menswear market 2019 report focuses on the detailed analysis of this market. This report categorizes Menswear industry predicated on manufacturers, regions, types, and application it centers around the global sector.

The market and also the present market sections will help your readers in planning Menswear market industry plans. The comprehensive research assessment of international Menswear market offers coordinated analysis of industry brand new upgrades, censorious Menswear trends, pilots, obstacles, along with standardization and technical realm names.

Menswear industry report has been an up to date analysis of the present market including the most effective most organizations, industrial chain, consumption sourcing strategy, research methodology. The Menswear report aids the market analysts and experts to isolate the present market trends and impending chances and also offers current and prospective trends are summarized to find out the Menswear decisions also to pick out lucrative tendencies to acquire a stronger standing from the industry.

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Menswear market Segmentations:

Key players of Global Menswear Market Report are:

NikeMichael KorsGapPradaKeringPVHH&MInditexBurberryLVMHRalph LaurenUniqloHerms

Segmentation by type:

Type 1

Type 2

Type 3

Type 4

Type 5

Segmentation by End Users/Applications:

Application 1

Application 2

Application 3

Application 4

Application 5

Leading Regions and Countries included in the Report: North America, Europe, China, Japan, The Middle East & Africa, India, South America, Others

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Key Questions Participate in Menswear Market Report:

1. What's going to be the Menswear growth speed by 2025?

2. What exactly would be the Menswear important elements driving?

3. What are earnings, Menswear revenue, and price analysis of high manufacturers?

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5. Who are the Menswear important players?

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About Futuristic Reports

We believe growth is the fundamental aim of any company, which makes businesses imperative to stay ahead of the market curve, abreast of expansions. Targeting different industries challenges, we help our clients, from various companies globally, and reach their development targets together with our market intelligence and consulting solutions. At Futuristic Reports rely on delivering strategic patterns of succeeding which help our client’s success by experiencing market knowledge that inspires strategies.

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[putthison]

Put This On’s 2017 Holiday Gift Guide

Tis the season for fretting over what to get the people. To help with the endeavor, every year, we write about our most recent favorites. So, coming just in time for the holiday season, here’s our 2017 gift guide -- things that would be awesome for anyone in your life. 

Before we get started though, we’d love it if you’d check out stuff from our beloved sponsors. The Hanger Project has some wonderful shoe care products; Proper Cloth sell cozy knitwear (probably hard to gift their MTM shirts without your friend knowing); and Chipp’s grenadines are among the most useful ties anyone can own. Dapper Classic’s socks make for nice stocking stuffers; Huckberry has things for the outdoorsman; and Twillory has both whimsical and basic button-ups. 

Additionally, we have some wonderful gift suggestions in our shop, organized by various price tiers. Throw this corner kick charm on a chain and you have a necklace, or give that clotheshorse in your life this Duke of Windsor themed shoehorn. Our Gentlemen’s Association subscriptions could also be that year-round gift that keeps on giving -- a handrolled and handsewn pocket square, made from fabrics picked out by Jesse, delivered to your friend’s doorstep every month. 

OK, to the gifts!

Muth's Mudjeskas

I grew up in San Francisco, eating special occasion candy from See's and Joseph Schmidt's Chocolates. A few years ago, a gift guide from Sweethome turned me on to Muth's Mudjeskas, sold through Muth's Candies in Louisville, Kentucky. They're caramel-covered marshmallows, but that hardly begins to describe them. They ship well, everyone loves them, and if I am frank, they trounce their California competitor, Scotch Kisses from See's, in every category. This year I may try the chocolate-covered ones. -Jesse

Brass Kaweco Sport Fountain Pen

I’ll admit, I am not a pen guy. My handwriting is almost illegible, and so I've always preferred a keyboard to the manual writing experience. But a few months ago in London, I stumbled upon the Kaweco Sport, an inexpensive German fountain pen. The base models are plastic, but the one I bought is made from brass. It's a compact pen, but the hefty metal and large cap make it feel substantial. It's comfortably less than a hundred bucks, writes beautifully, and is handsome as hell. A real "pen guy" probably has ultra-particular tastes you'll never be able to accommodate, but the Kaweco is a great option for someone who’ll enjoy an upgrade from the world of rollerballs. -Jesse

Glerups Wool Slipper Boots

My wife walked around the house barefoot for decades, unbothered by cold or dirt. My toesies are always frozies, so I never took off my shoes. (I know, I know, but I have wood floors and live in California, where the elements don't follow you indoors). Then my wife’s feet started to hurt and her doctor laid it out for her: you need to wear some support anytime you're walking on hard surfaces. The answer was boiled-wool slippers like these, from Glerups. They keep your feet cozy without overheating, and they have a bizarrely compelling style. Glerups are the option recommended by the product review site The Sweethome, and I trust their judgement. -Jesse

[Pete’s note: I also dig these Tyrolean wool slippers, which have thin leather soles. They're like sweaters for your feet.]

John Hodgman's Vacationland

Hodgman took a hard turn in his new book, Vacationland. His first three books were compendia of imagined facts. They were deeply personal, but they weren't real. Vacationland is a genuine memoir, a story that follows Hodgman through three parts of life: growing up as a prematurely middle-aged child in a ramshackle house in Brookline, Mass; inheriting his family's summer home in Western Mass; and buying a home in his wife's family seat of Maine. It's very funny, but it's also beautifully written, and ultimately becomes a consideration of the pleasures and responsibilities of adulthood. A perfect gift for the dad who has everything. -Jesse

Manufactum Map Case

The map case has always struck me as the perfect man's purse. Unlike a big shoulder bag, it's modest in size, but it still has enough distinctiveness from a lady's bag and enough military heritage to feel like a man could wear it. In other words: it's useful enough for a woman, but PH-balanced for a man. The problem with map cases is that the real deal -- often made for European armies in the 1950s and ‘60s -- are made of vinyl and ultra-low-quality leather. Their form is appealing, but the reality is not. The other day, I got a doorstop of a catalog from the German retailer Manufactum, and I was thrilled to find that they have remade the German map case with real grown-up leather. -Jesse

Felt Hats by Barbara Keal

Years ago, when we were shooting Put This On in London, I met Guy Hills, the proprietor of Dashing Tweeds. Guy is a crackling ball of joyful, boyish energy. He rode around on one of those giant-wheel bicycles, showed us the riverboat behind his house, and told about his tweeds. He also showed us a hat his family had bought him for Christmas. It was a breathtaking concoction from felted wool, a ragged animal crown that reminded me of Where the Wild Things Are. "My friend Barbara made it for me, don't you love it?" And frankly, I did. I'm no furry, no costume-wearer, but it was genuine art. It was breathtaking. So I asked for one for Christmas from my family. It's one of my most treasured possessions. She takes commissions, although they can take a while to make. -Jesse

Ray Barretto’s Acid

Ray Barretto was one of the great bandleaders of Latin music. He was an accomplished jazz player, accompanying acts such as Art Blakey and Lou Donaldson as a conguero. When boogaloo hit in the early ‘60s, he had one of its signature hits, “El Watusi.” By 1968, Barreto was making salsa with the legendary Fania Records. He was music director of the Fania All-Stars, perhaps the greatest salsa band of all time, and making records under his own name. Acid is more than just a bit of trendy psychedelia. It's a genuinely thrilling record, with salsa, boogaloo, Latin rock, and jazz all in a blender. You don't need to know those genres to appreciate them either because, ultimately, it's dance music. It jams. If this one doesn’t thrill you, you're dead inside. -Jesse

Aurora Shoe Company

I was flipping through a Japanese fashion magazine the other day, and was stopped short by these handmade shoes from Aurora Shoe Company. They were in a section featuring the editors' personal favorites and I could see why. They're profoundly dowdy, but immensely charming. The Middle English has full size runs for me (including narrow) and is pretty great, but the one I saw was the West Indian. Sadly, they only carry that one in sizes up to 11 womens, which is a 9 mens. Great if you're a Japanese fashion editor, but less great if you're a giant American oaf. -Jesse

Children’s Books, Who Needs Donuts and Radiant Child

Is there a picture-book-aged kid on your list? I've got three kids myself, and am a real snob. These are two books that meet my standards. Who Needs Donuts is a strange and hilarious story about a boy obsessed with collecting donuts. He learns the true meaning of love. It has the anarchic, deviant quality that animates Maurice Sendak and insane, riotous pictures that you can look at for hours. One of those stories that gets its hooks in deeply and you're not sure how. Radiant Child is a new picture biography of Jean-Michel Basquiat by Javaka Steptoe. Steptoe is a gifted artist himself, and his pictures were built from fragments of Basquiat's past, like literal window frames from the places he lived. He also isn't afraid of the deepest emotional resonances of Basquiat's life and work. The book is largely driven by Basquiat's relationship with his mentally ill mother, and the subject is presented beautifully  and movingly. Steptoe's own mother struggled with mental illness, and in reading, an adult can see the ways Basquiat's story is animated by Steptoe's. -Jesse

A Small Vintage Steiff Animal

The world is full of Steiff collectors, the world's greatest manufacturer of stuffed animals. There's a reason, too. Steiffs have immense charm, they're distinctive, and more than a little bit beautiful. They also make great gifts. The older, smaller ones are generally well under a hundred bucks on eBay or from a local antique shop, and you have your choice of a century of creatures. You can go with a classic bear, but I love the more unusual beasts, such as lobsters or ride-on turtles or this tremendous fox, which may be begging for a treat? -Jesse 

(Derek’s note: for the menswear enthusiasts among you, A Kind of Guise routinely makes parkas with Steiff’s signature wools). 

A Plant (and an Accompanying Planter)

I like giving art or decorative objects as gifts (although they can be risky if you don’t know someone’s taste pretty well). Another good gift in this category is a simple houseplant­­—an easy and almost universal present. Houseplants have been undergoing a bit of a renaissance recently, so the availability and variety are broader than they were a few years ago. The snake plant is easy to care for and doesn’t need much light or attention. One of my favorites (still reasonably small—fit for a desk or countertop) is a staghorn fern. Air plants and small succulents can also fit almost anywhere and will require minimal care. If you know someone likes plants and has some space, step up to the monstera, whose distinctly shaped leaves you’ll recognize from Aloha shirts. You can find decent selections online from stores like The Sill, which also offers a 30-day guarantee, your local garden store, or even Ikea. -Pete

Lizzy Goodman’s Meet Me in the Bathroom

If the Strokes, Yeah Yeah Yeahs, and LCD Soundsystem were in regular rotation on your first generation iPod, you'll appreciate Goodman's oral history of the New York scene in the ‘00s. Goodman interviewed dozens (hundreds?) of musicians, managers, DJs, and journalists and chronicles how rock 'n' roll re-took over the world from limp late-era alternative rock and Limp Bizkit. The stories they tell are enjoyably revealing, overblown, and gossip-y. Sample quote from James Murphy: “This is me dancing. This isn’t the drugs dancing. This is the drugs stopping myself from stopping myself from dancing.” -Pete

A Watch Winder from WOLF

If your friend owns mechanical wristwatches, a watch winder could be the perfect gift. There’s a lot of debate on whether they’re necessary -- a winder may or may not extend the life of a watch -- but they do eliminate the need to wind automatics. That can be nice if your friend owns watches with certain complications (e.g. setting the date, which can be annoying if you haven’t worn a watch in a while). WOLF makes some wonderful winders. Handsomely designed and constructed from reliable parts, these are fully programmable so you can set the number and direction of rotations (a good way to customize the winder to best suit your watches). They’re also a beautiful way to display special timepieces -- something to decorate on your friend’s dresser or bookshelf. -Derek

A Handsome Mach 3 Handle

Gillette’s Mach 3 has spread into almost every medicine cabinet since it was first introduced in the late ‘90s. It’s the safety razor most men, including me, have stuck with since learning how to shave in high school. Stock Gillette handles, however, are pretty ugly -- cheap, plastic, and dinky looking, they’re an eyesore on countertops. You probably can’t get your friend to switch shaving habits, but you can give them a better Mach 3 handle. British brands such as Edwin Jagger sell some handsome ones, although I prefer the more distinctive hand-turned designs found on sites such as eBay and Etsy. They’re typically hand carved from a block of wood, then lacquered with an epoxy to give the surface a shine and water-resistant finish. I like them in buckeye burl woods. Mine, pictured above, was purchased at this shop. They no longer have the handles in burl wood, although you can find them elsewhere. -Derek

American Trench’s Speckled Wool Socks

Everyone hates cold feet, which is why warm socks make for an easy, even if pedestrian, gift (get it? Pede? Feet? Ok). I like these Donegal-style wool socks at American Trench. They’re cozy, designed to be worn with boots, and made at a Pennsylvanian factory from hardy Italian yarns. The flecks of color give some nice visual interest without being overdone. Kinda pricey at $30, but a two pack runs for $45 and you can keep a pair for yourself. Hard to go wrong with any of the colors, although I dig the yellow ones most. -Derek

A Fancy Ass Cheese Knife

Everyone has that one friend that loves to host parties. And thank God, because without them we’d never leave our homes. To show your appreciation for their efforts, give them a fancy cheese knife. It’ll allow them to serve up some delicious appetizers, add something to their party decor, and give you an excuse to duck out of awkward conversations at said gatherings (“Is that, is that cheese? Excuse me”). Chelsea Miller sells some lovely looking knives. She makes them completely herself, from start to finish, at her workshop in Brooklyn. The metals are sourced from recycled farrier rasps; the wood harvested from her family farm in Vermont. They have a wonderfully elegant and rustic style about them, and would be something your friend and others can use for years. -Derek

Billingham Camera Bag

It never fails to impress me how many people are interested in photography nowadays. Unfortunately, most camera bags aren’t terribly great looking -- black ballistic nylon designs with cheap plastic details, they look like the sort of things carried around convention halls. If you have a friend who’s a budding photographer, give him or her a Billingham instead. They’re made in England and look like repurposed traditional fishing bags (Billingham actually started as a fishing bag manufacturer). The interior is padded to protect camera equipment, but the exterior is made from a handsome mix of cotton canvas and leather. You can find Billingham bags new at their webshop or second-hand on sites such as eBay and Etsy. They also used to make camera bags for Banana Republic -- pre-Gap, back when the brand was still a solid safari-themed outfitter. Extra points if you can find one with that heritage. -Derek

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