#maybe Donan could have had a family again

[west-tokyo-incidents]

I am genuinely enjoying writing Donan and the wanderer's interactions. Fucking bros, man.

[thegrazingblacksheep]

Road Trip to Isle of Skye - Day 2 of 6

After waking up in our lovely accomodation, and put on the brave pants to come out from under the warm blanket to the freezing cold - inside the room -, we quicky set off to have a breakfast. We went to Kendal, as it was promising some vegan options, and was quite close to our accomodation. 

I never felt such a happiness after checking out and leaving the place like this time...

Breakfast in Kendal

The name of the place was Brew Brothers, and basically its theme is all about sheep. Had Shaun the sheep on a bike as a wall art, and a huge printed wallpaper of sweet herdwick sheep. I loved it! Not even mentioning the real size plastic sheep at the entrance, which we considered as a maaybe funny object in our living room. Just imagine, how people would think about our mental wellbeing when they saw that... Anyway, we won't have one, unfortunately.

Besides the funny theme, Brew Brothers is a lovely and clean café. Huge, shiny windows and shop front, friendly atmosphere and unique, hipster furniture all around from lots of wood which made it very cosy as well.

We had a fancy vegan full English, and a classic porridge with fruits - exactly what we needed. These courses were both nice treats after sleeping in a freezer. Oh! And finally I have photos :)

Driving to Skye

And from Kendal, after having some petrol, we drove up to Skye. One of our favourite moment of these journeys to Scotland is to see the "Welcome to Scotland" sign on the motorway, because that means: soon the surroundings will change to something interesting.

Still a lot of sheep on the way, but houses are also changing from English to Scottish style, you know what I mean. Maybe I make it romantic, but I love this transition. Driving on the motorway can be quite boring, but we both loved that moment when two fighter jets were chasing each other between the mountains. Jeez, they are not quiet...! At first it sounded like a lorry is having a difficult time with a tyre or something, but then two dark shadows flewn away above.

Unfortunately we didn't have much time to stop here and there, as we wanted to reach Eilean Donan before sunset to take nice photos of it. 

Eilean Donan

So every time we went up to Skye and seen the majestic Eilean Donan castle, it was raining. And it was raining this time too... Unbelieveable. We wanted to take pro photos of it so badly; and here we go again, no luck.

But she is there. Standing quietly in its noble spot, surrounded by a loch. 

We have been in once, and it is really worth a visit to see its lovely interior and whole history with early early documents, paintings, drawings, and the most recent family photos of the owners. Imagine a family tree like that, what you can track back to the middle ages... I find it stunning to see living history.

Also, when we see Eilean Donan, it is so cool to know that once Christopher Lambert was on set here, being The Highlander on the back of a slowly walking horse with a medieval crowd around. Childhood favourite.

We were glad to see the Ukrainian flag up as well.

Arriving to Portree

We were so lucky with the weather until we reached Eilean Donan. After that we had quite heavy rain and strong winds to drive to Portree where our main accomodation was. I was kind of worrying after yesterday's experience that we will find a room where we can see our own breaths, but after entering the cottage I immediately revoked that. 

We had an end of terrace cottage with niche interior and decor, happy and vibrant doorframes and a stunning clean kitchen. And, guess what! It was warm, finally. I had to ask the host about the heating situation anyway, because previously we had an Airbnb in the north of Skye with a log burner and a coin gobbling machine which could only heat up one room, leaving the living room and bathroom ice cold. We could have used the log burner, but I doubt it would have heat up the bathroom for example, but never mind. But this cottage was the pure perfection, couldn't wish for more, really.

As we were quite tired of the whole day journey, we didn't really make fuss about the dinner, so we chose a pizza and some fish cakes from the local Co-op that night. 

After checking the weather for the week, it seemed that we have 1 or 2 sunny days, all the rest will be rainy and windy, so had to plan precisely what we will visit. Finally, we were lucky.

[wandersofmylife-blog]

Scotland

I’ve always identified as being Greek - as a kid I went to Greek Orthodox Church Camp in Greece, I savour baklava and I eat copious amounts of lamb on Easter. However, when I meet people they always seem to be surprised that I'm Greek - could be the fair skin and freckles, which I inherit from my Scottish side. I had never been interested in my Scottish side, despite my extremely Scottish and common last name, Ramsay, until I was introduced to the show Outlander this year. For those of you who have watched it, it takes place in Scotland, and I finally had an interest in going. I’m not sure if it was because of the hottest read-headed Scot I’ve ever seen being on the show(Jamie Fraser), or if it was seeing that the history of Scotland was rich, and something I had overlooked all my life, but I decided to make the trek out there this July. 

Scotland is a beautiful country. It reminded me quite a bit of Iceland and in certain parts, just not as cold when I was there. It does rain quite a bit, but going in July I only had 1 of my 9 days where there was any precipitation, so I don’t believe it’s as dark and gloomy as people expect it to be. Edinburgh and Glasgow, two of the main cities, are located closer to the south of the country. There are some fantastic beaches to hit south of these two cities, mostly on the west coast. Even travelling north, the west coast is more dense and has more to see than the east. Scotland is not a heavily populated country, and travelling north you’ll find many small little towns that pass in the blink of an eye, but the highlands are definitely worth checking out. That was actually my favourite part of the trip - the north has something amazing about it, and I’m very glad I rented a car to get up there and see it. 

The one difficulty with this is that in Scotland, they drive on the opposite side of the road. It’s quite a shock to see cars coming at you on the wrong side of the freeway, so wherever you are, make sure you do a little bit of small driving before you get onto the big roads. I always use rentalcars.com to book my cars, and by doing it at least 1 week in advance you’ll save a ton of money. For 1 week my car rental was $350.00 by booking in advance, but at the counter it would have been over $1000.00 - you have been warned!

I tried to cover as much as I could during my 9 days, and if I were to go back a second time I would do a few things differently. I would stay longer up in the North, and check out some more of the Isles. I only got to Skye, which was absolutely stunning, but there are many more out there to explore. 

Day 1 -  I flew WestJet and arrived in Glasgow. WestJet has a night flight, so you get there in the morning, which means you avoid losing a whole day of travel as long as you can sleep on planes. The Glasgow airport is quite small, so it was easy to pick up my rental car and drive around a bit to get myself familiarized. From here, I made my way up to Dalwhinnie, a 2 hour drive out from the airport.  There is not much to see in Glasgow itself, as it’s very industrial, but there are some nice parks and downtown areas. This is actually where my Scottish family is from - they were a poor, working family who didn’t seem to have much until they went over to Canada.  On the way to Dalwhinnie, you’ll hit Perth, where you can stop for lunch and also see the Scone Palace. It’s a great little town that has some awesome Haggis and Ale, if you’re looking to stop for a nice Scottish lunch. From here, I carried on and ended at Balsporran Cottages in Dalwhinnie. It really is a cute little B&B in the middle of nowhere. There’s a few nice streams and hiking opportunities in the surrounding hills, which is very nice, but don’t think you’re going out drinking if you stay here. It’s very peaceful, clean and well-kept - perfect for a first relaxing night in Scotland. If you’re arriving on a weekend, I’d suggest staying in Edinburgh so you can enjoy the nightlife there, but coming in here on a weekday is just fine. 

Day 2 -  From here, I started up to Mallaig, which is a 1.5 hour drive from Dalwhinnie. On the way, there are a few great things to stop by and see. En route, you have to stop at Fort William, an old Scottish fort-town. It’s got tons of great shops and little restaurants to eat at. I bought an awesome raincoat here for $60, so it’s not outrageously priced. It’s definitely a must to stop at, and is also close to Ben Nevis. Ben Nevis is the tallest mountain in the Scottish region that take about 8.5 hours to climb, round trip. If you’re outdoorsy, it’s a big tourist destination and can get you moving and your blood pumping. The view at the top is one you’ll never forget. If you’re a new climber, I’d think it may be a good idea to do a half-climb up, as it does get quite tricky in some areas.  Just past Fort William you’ll find Glenfinnan, where they have the Hogwarts Express. It’s a quick 20 min detour from the main route, and you’ll see the train winding through the mountains as you drive as well. This is actually called the Jacobite Stream Train, but if you’re a Harry Potter fan, this is definitely a quick stop you must take. Finally in Mallaig, you’ll smell the sea and salt, in this little ferry town. There are a couple of great coffee shops here, and I highly recommend staying at the West Highland Hotel. The rooms are small but clean, there are no key-cards for the doors(they are actual keys), but the bathrooms are completely renovated and there is a bar, restaurant and library on the main level. At night, people sit in the reception area and there is live music near the bar, so it’s perfect to meet other travellers and enjoy some Scottish sounds. The hotel is also located a bit up on a hill, overlooking the inlet. It’s a great view, and I would definitely stay here again.  If you are taking a ferry the next day to the Isle of Skye, it’s best to book it the night before, It books up quickly, and if you don‘t have a confirmed ticket, there’s no guarantee you’ll get on with a car. You can book the ferry tickets at CalMac: www.ticketing.calmac.co.uk/booking/asp/web100.asp . 

Day 3 -  I made an early start in Mallaig to catch the 8am ferry over to the Isle of Skye. There’s a small coffee shop right by the ferry dock, where you can grab a quick bit to take and grab some java. The ferry is a short 30 minutes to the Isle of Skye, where you’ll land in Ardvasar. The island is actually quite large, so unless you stay a night here it’s best to do a pass-through and end up back on the mainland. I chose to visit the Fairy Pools, which is about an hour from the ferry. Staying on the island can be quite costly, running you about $200/night for a small room.  Along the road to the fairy pools, you’ll see tons of gorgeous waterfalls and off-road scenery. It‘s an awesome drive on a good sunny day. When you get to the fairy pools, located in Glen Brittle, you’ll see parking is limited. It’s best to park on the road, and then walk down to the entrance. It’s really just a bunch of waterfalls running down from the mountains, which makes for an incredibly breathtaking scene. You can walk up quite a bit, but once you get to a certain point they all look the same, so I suggest going up about 30 minutes. The water is cold, clear and refreshing. If you're daring, you can definitely take swim, but it is quite chilling and there is no place out of the open to dry off.  You can also check out Dunvegan, which is another hour north, however the Fairy Pools are the so serene, it’s good to budget at least an hour and a half here. Look out for Moo-Cows as well, which can be found en-route to the Fairy Pools.  Head back to Kyleakin, where you can take cross over a bridge to the mainland. Right in Kyleakin there is a grocery store, gas station and some really cute restaurants. You can enjoy a late lunch here on your way back over. The bridge is pretty cool, and quite long, offering a great view of Loch Alsh. Try to do the cross-over before 4pm or so, as you’ll be able to stop into Eilean Donan castle. It’s got tons of great history, and has been passed down for generations within the current family, so there are tons of interesting objects in the home. It’s right on the loch, which makes for some incredible photo opps. The castle closes around 6pm, so be sure to get there before. From the castle, head up to Inverness, which is about 1hr30min. You’ll drive right beside Loch Ness - unfortunately, I didn’t catch Nessy on my trip, but maybe you’ll be lucky enough to.  Inverness was by far my favourite place in Scotland. It’s all based around the river, and there’s a decent nightlife here as well. There’s tons of things to do for tourists here, as well as great shopping at their main downtown mall. Small boutique shops have tartans for every clan you can imagine in the downtown as well, and there’s tons of food(including McDonalds - however please don’t,,.. just don’t). All of the bars and pubs run along the River Ness, making it easy to pub-hop and check out all sorts of different bars. You can stay at the Crown Court Hotel($164/night), which is about a 10 minute walk into downtown through a few beautiful side street. The houses along here are all older and covered in flowers and greenery, so it’s a great walk. You’ll pass Inverness Castle on the way in, and if you really like you can go to the top of the castle to see a great view of the entire town during open hours. 

Day 4 -  The next day, grab breakfast or brunch in Inverness(tons of great spots downtown), and then head out to Culloden Moor, which is just outside of Inverness. You can pay for a tour by entering into the main building once you arrive, or you can park a bit closer near the entrance itself and walk yourself around the fields. This is where the Jacobite army fought against British troops, and were basically destroyed. There are tons of plaques as you do the walk around explaining different components of the battle, as well as headstones for the different clans and flag poles marking the position of the British and Jacobites. It is a must-see, full of history and amazing to see what happened on that soil back in 1746.  After checking out Culloden, you can either stay another night in Inverness(which I would have done if I could redo the trip), or head up to Dornoch. Dornoch is a bit more north, and follows the sea with is really nice. However, the farther north you go, the cooler it gets. Up in Dornoch, there’s the opportunity to see Dunrobin Castle before heading into your hotel. This is an incredibly well architected castle with amazing gardens, and really cool to see. If you decide to stay in Dornoch, I highly recommend staying at the Dornoch Hotel($90/night). It’s right off the sea, and has a great restaurant in the hotel. Dornoch itself is a great little Scottish town, with some awesome restaurants and sweet shops. It’s quite small, so you can walk downtown from the hotel, but if you choose to drive there are tons of parking spots available. If you get to Dornoch before sunset, it’s a quick walk through the golf course outside of the hotel to the beach. The beach is absolutely stunning, with white sand and cool water. I actually ended up getting a sunburn here, not realizing how strong the sun was!

Day 5 -  If you’re up for it, I highly recommend doing a horseback riding tour at Highlands Unbridled, about 30-40 minutes from Dornoch. You can choose rides of a few hours, or a day ride. Depending on your experience level, you’re able to gallop along the beach, or just happily walk along - they’re great at gaging the best experience for the group. They have a ton of different ponies, all of which are fantastically well cared for and seem quite happy, including Highland Ponies. I am not a pony person, I prefer horses, however these ponies were my absolute favourite! The day trek includes a stop at the top of one of the hills for lunch, so be sure to pack enough water and food to get your through a 6 hour day. You can check them out here: www.highlandsubridled.co.uk.  After the horse trek, you’ll most likely be quite tired, so staying in Dornoch is idea. The Dornoch hotel has great ocean views and is quite relaxing - you’ll most likely be sore the next day if you’re not used to riding. 

Day 6 -  Make a late start to head back down Fife area. You can do this 1 of 2 ways depending on your tolerance for driving. You can take the coastal route down the east coast, stopping in Aberdeen for lunch and completing a total trip of 5 hours, or you can cut through the inland for a total trip time of 4  hours. Both are great drives, but if you like the sea then I would suggest spending that extra hour.  Your destination is Anstruser, a small town with the most amazing fish and chips you can possibly find. Even the Princes eat the fish and chips from here at the Anstruser Fish Bar, and were seen here often during their studies in St. Andrews. It is absolutely to die for! This little sea town has tons of one-way streets, which can be a bit frustrating at times, but there is little need to walk if you stay at the Murray Library Hoes Hostel. Although it’s a hostel, can book private rooms here as well for a great price. It’s has renovated washrooms, super clean rooms, awesome common spaces and is right beside the sea. The hostel owners are extremely friendly, and the place is very secure. I would highly recommend to stay here if in the area.  There are also a ton of great trails in this little town, one of which will take you out to the meadows outside of town. The Scottish landscape can truly be appreciated here, giving you a mix of beautiful fields and the sea. In the summer there’s live music and festivals in the main square by the beach, which is a great spot to meet people. The town is super friendly and a great place to wind down and ground yourself. 

Day 7 -  Make your way down to Edinburgh, which is about an hour from Anstruther. There’s no need to rush out, as it’s beautiful to watch the sun rise over the ocean. Once you get to Edinburgh, there’s a ton of great sites to see. There’s lots of walking to be done, so park your car at the Safestay Edinburgh, where you can stay the night and be central to the city for $120/night.  Head into the old town of Edinburgh, where you’ll find old architecture and, of course, the Edinburgh Castle. You’ll have to pay a fee to get in, but it’s something that should be done if you’re interested in history. The gardens around the castle are also beautiful, and you can walk around the main streets into back alleys and different shops, which are scattered all over the old town. There's also tons of churches that are absolutely stunning. Be ware - you can’t take photos unless you pay a fee, so if you’re going to use a camera make sure you’re sneaky about it! The bars and pubs here are endless, so if you’re looking for some good nightlife the city is really your oyster. Bramble is a small bar that has amazing beer, and is very well known - making it easy to meet people as it’s always packed. For breakfast, try Roseleaf, which has amazing reviews and lives up to these reviews with their awesome food. Edinburgh is really a city for walking and drinking, so enjoy the livelihood and density, which is a sharp change from the north. 

Day 8 -  This day can either be spent in Edinburgh, or you can head out on this day to Glasgow(an hour drive) to catch a flight home. If you prefer, you can also leave from Edinburgh, however dropping the car here will most likely be more expensive as it will be different from where you picked it up. 

Scotland is a stunning country rich of heritage and thick accents. The north is absolutely perfect if you’re looking for adventure, with the stark contrast to Edinburgh and it’s density, which makes for an awesome nightlife and the opportunity to meet tons of new people. 

Hopefully you have the opportunity to enjoy Scotland and all it has to offer.  Happy travels, and remember - 

Travel far, Wander further. 

Dede