#madame de maintenon watch out
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renée de noailles from vying from versailles is the cuntiest woman to ever exist. she removed louise de la valliere from court and became the maîtresse-en-titre in her debut season at the ripe age of twenty.
then she proceeded to single handedly save the dauphin of france, frame and execute françois-athénaïs, madame de montespan and chevalier lou de rohan at the ripe age of twenty one.
now at twenty three, she's a duchess with her own retinue, with a new found relationship with hunger for power and corruption, a pro supporter of war.
truly serving cunt.
#romance club#vying for versailles#rc vying for versailles#renée de noailles#rc renée#rc VFV#Louis xiv#rc king louis#alexandre bontemps#rc alexandre#madame de montespan#Louise de la valliere#madame de maintenon watch out#mother of cunts#cunty behaviour#best mc
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Versailles season 3 thoughts
I just finished my Versailles rewatch and I wanted to share some of my thoughts on the last season
- I HATE Madame de Maintenon so much you have no idea
- Three of her worst crimes: getting Liselotte’s baby taken away, firing Chev as master of ceremonies, and starting the whole ‘get rid of the Protestants’ thing
- It was very cathartic when her nude portraits got exposed
- We really took Madame de Montespan for granted
- You know it’s bad when you hate another mistress more than the one who participated in an attempted baby sacrifice
- I don’t like the ‘man in the iron mask’ plot line very much, I just don’t find it that interesting
- The whole thing was just Phillipe getting gaslit until the end
- RIP Maria-Theresa, you were a girlboss
- (the way she died is my WORST NIGHTMARE, I have a bug phobia, especially them crawling into my ears/nose/mouth)
- CHEVALIER’S HAIR THIS SEASON IS SO AMAZING
- They also give Liselotte way better hairstyles this season, she looks so pretty with her hair in a braid
- I don’t like the Paris people at all, sorry they are boring
- I know a lot of people like Guillaume but I don’t care about him
- I don’t like Delphine (I call her ‘that woman’) because I feel like she is taking advantage of Chev
- Like he is risking his life to help her and her friends and she is like “I wouldn’t marry you if you were the last person on earth”
- It was better towards the end I guess but I’m not a fan of their relationship
- I do love bi Chev though <3
- When they burned down Delphine’s father’s house I was like nooooo that house is so pretty
- I do respect her for keeping her faith but she needs to think about self preservation more
- If it was me I would just lie about being Catholic and continue to be Protestant in secret (I’m Lutheran irl)
- I hate the Vatican but I hate Louis even more
- I actually really like Colbert (RIP)
- The Portuguese infanta was kinda slay and Louis was super rude to her
- Louis thinking he is a god makes me so angry
- Can I just point out how during the thaumaturgy Louis didn’t even touch the people??? He just hovered his hands over them like he didn’t want to get dirty poor people germs
- Why did they have to do that to Fabien :( let him go be with Sophie or something
- This season is just Louis being stupid
- Last three episodes: screaming crying throwing up
- Love Monchelotte at the end though
- Overall: imo it is the worst season but still worth watching
#message me with your Versailles opinions#I need someone to vent with lol#versailles season 3#versailles#versailles tv#thoughts#monchevy#monchelotte#chevalier de lorraine#liselotte#phillipe duc d’orlean#louis xiv#i am the president of the madame de maintenon hate club btw
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@joachimnapoleon? who asked me: 9, 19, and 26.
9- Favourite historical film ?
It’s a difficult choice, because the movie has to be engaging and respectful of History, with a good visual impact, and the watcher getting some pleasure out of it. Nothing is perfect. That being said, and keeping in mind that I’m not a Historian, just a History lover with her own fancies, I’d nominate:
* L’Allée du Roi by Nina Companeez in 1995, based on the book by Françoise Chandernagor. It’s the life of Françoise d’Aubigné, Marquise de Maintenon, and second wife of Louis XIV. Madame de Maintenon is the narrator and we follow her from her poor beginnings to glory in Versailles beside the King. I like the costumes, and the portrayal of the King, of Françoise, of their relationship, and of Louis XIV with his bastard children. This movie has an intimate atmosphere.
* Austerlitz, by Abel Gance in 1960. It is old and it shows, but I still like it. The marshals are all here, Lannes, Davout (actually played by a Davout d’Auerstaedt!), Murat, Soult, Bernadotte; Larrey is mentioned; the many schemes around Napoléon; his family! And of course the soldiers. And they sing, which is a wonderful touch. A lot of little things like historical quotes are seamlessly woven into this film.
And, it’s Austerlitz. It cheers me up.
* La Chambre des Officiers, by François Dupeyron in 2001, from a book by Marc Dugain. A young soldier is facially wounded in the first weeks of WW1. He’ll spend the whole war in the hospital. This movie is about the men who were disfigured during this conflict, the “Gueules Cassées”, Broken Faces. In their room, they will learn to keep on living, to find hope, faith, and love.
I want to watch the wonderful series made after the Carnets du Capitaine Coignet, just for the “mood”.
I liked “Les Rois Maudits”, (1972 version only) from a series of books by Maurice Druon, a romanticized version of real History, in early XIVth century France: Philippe le Bel, his sons and daughter, the great ministers, the humble people, and the Templars. It’s very entertaining.
“Rome” also had some points about the colors and atmosphere of ancient Rome.
19. Favourite historical books
Right now, I’m very much enjoying “Les Maréchaux de Napoléon” by Louis Chardigny. You can see the marshals with their troops, with Napoleon, with their own family, with each other. The author doesn’t shy away from their flaws but simply shows them as the complicated, surprising human beings they were, with their vices and virtues. He obviously loves his subject, and it makes for a pleasant, touching read.
As a young girl, I like Régine Pernoud’s books, because she was determined to fight against the commonly held narrative about the Middle Ages, and wrote especially about women in the Middle Ages - and I was named for one of them.
I’m about to read The Betrayers by Hubert Cole and heard good things about this book.
I read many books and can’t remember them all, I’m sorry. It’s mostly about French History, and Ancient Greece and Rome. If any of you can tell me about good books to learn about History of other places (Japan, India, the US, and the Ottoman Empire for example), I’d be grateful.
26. Forgotten hero we should know about and admire ?
There are so many of them! But what about someone who did good for a lot of people and whose impact was worldwide ?
I’m pretty set on Dominique-Jean Larrey, Surgeon of the Grande Armée, for what he did for battlefield medicine and triage. He is often considered the first modern military surgeon. He initiated the system of army ambulance corps, and adapted the carriages of the “flying artillery” into “flying ambulances.” He treated soldiers of enemy armies as well as the French and their allies, notably saving Blücher’s son.
Napoleon said: "If the army ever erects a monument to express its gratitude, it should do so in honor of Larrey".
He was an absolute badass who didn’t let anyone get in his way to his wounded, protecting them fiercely.
NATO’s highest medical honor, “awarded in recognition of a significant and lasting contribution to NATO multi-nationality and/or interoperability, or to improvements in the provision of health care in NATO missions in the areas of medical support or healthcare development”, is the Dominique-Jean Larrey Award.
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L’Allée du Roi, 1995
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Austerlitz
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Where You Are - ChevLotte
Collection of sequenced drabbles, bridging the gap between S2 and S3 and exploring how their friendship developed. I’ve written SO many of these, but they’re kind of different to what I’d do normally, so.. ? Let me know if there’s any interest in the rest of them.
Notes: There’s mentions of drinking whilst pregnant, because we’re talking about a time when champagne treated morning sickness... Also, historical Liselotte was brutally unkind about Maintenon in her letters, so bear that in mind.
Where You Are
i.
‘You just need to get to know him.’
Phillipe had repeated the phrase to her endlessly, and previously Liselotte had wondered how on earth you were meant to get to know somebody who prickled up faster than a surprised hedgehog. But it was clear that Phillipe loved this man a great deal, and she couldn’t think of a more glowing character reference than that. So she resolved to try.
As they had watched Phillipe walk out of their lives, Liselotte felt his hand return her squeeze and she knew then that there was hope.
ii.
The first week after Phillipe’s departure had perhaps been the hardest, and they had both struggled with his absence. The Chevalier hovered at the edge of her life, like he was helplessly drawn to the places that belonged to Phillipe even though he wasn’t in them.
Before the end of the second day Liselotte had already written him three letters. She found herself asking the Chevalier if he wanted to add anything to her latest, but he didn’t move from the sofa he’d been occupying for most of the afternoon. ‘I’ll write my own, thank you.’
‘Well, come on then.’ She swirled her signature before pulling out a fresh sheet of paper. She rose from her desk, waving him towards it as she blew on the damp ink of her letter. ‘They can go with the same rider.’
To her delight, he did as he was told. Liselotte watched him write from her bed, and couldn’t help but wonder what he had to say.
iii.
The truth was, they didn’t really have anybody else. The two of them may as well have been alone at Versailles: so they continued to gravitate towards each other, either in Phillipe’s rooms or in her own.
She had gone to Phillipe’s apartments one evening after dinner, on the hunt for a particular book. Liselotte found the Chevalier flopped back on his bed staring at the canopy, and her eyes were drawn to the dark, smooth lines of a waistcoat she recognised as Phillipe’s.
He huffed out a laugh when she asked what he was doing. ‘I found myself choosing what he should wear for dinner. I think I am going mad.’
His tone was flippant but it made Liselotte’s heart ache, and she wondered how many times he found himself here.
‘Well if you feel your talents are wasted, there’s always my wardrobe. Lord knows I need the help.’
With that appeal to his vanity her toe was in the door, and she couldn’t help but feel pleased with herself when he’d agreed. She soon found there was no true malice in his bluster and that he actually seemed to take great pride in making her look.. presentable. A new lady made her way into her entourage, poached from somebody else no doubt, and she heard a glowing report on her talent for styling hair.
It became the first of many routines they would share: the Chevalier was there without fail, dressing her for the mornings, for the salon in the afternoon and the evening tables.
iv.
As the infant grew, Liselotte had quite loudly refused to cave in to the popular fashion for disguising her changing shape. She’d argued with her ladies, pointing out that people had been so interested in Phillipe performing that she wasn’t about to disguise the results of his efforts. Montespan could keep her battantes, Liselotte had nothing to hide.
One afternoon she returned from the garden to find an unfamiliar girl in her rooms, hunched over one of her dresses in the light of the window. Liselotte didn’t get a chance to question her, as the Chevalier spoke up from a sofa.
‘She’s adding panels, for the baby. They can be taken out again afterwards if you want.’
‘You are.. a marvel.’
He chose her evening’s ensemble from one of her newly amended pieces, only today he didn’t leave once his decisions had been made. Instead the Chevalier lingered in her day room, and once dressed she found him there, nosing through various things on her table without an ounce of shame. He gave her a brief once-over before tucking her hand into his arm.
‘Come on then, or we shall be late.’
‘We? We’re going.. together?’
‘You can go on your own if you like.’ Her fingers were already slipping from the crook of his elbow, and Liselotte tugged him back to her which was apparently a satisfactory response.
If he noticed the raised eyebrows they met on their way he didn’t comment, and it was hard to tell what they were more surprised by: their pairing, or the perfect bump that was really very obvious. For once Liselotte enjoyed her scandal, and let him seat her at a table before joining her. He proved to be a magnificent accomplice when it came to fleecing their companions. She showed him her aunt’s preferred method for cheating and he taught her a quinze drinking game of Phillipe’s invention.
They awoke the next morning in Phillipe’s bed fully dressed, right down to their shoes and her hairpins. Even in their stupor they’d gravitated towards him.
Liselotte had needed his full assistance to heave herself out of the bed, and was unashamed as he helped unlace her bodice to give her pregnancy bump more room to breathe. The expression on the faces of her ladies as the Chevalier returned her to her own rooms had almost been worth the headache.
v.
Liselotte’s unborn infant was beginning to try and make his presence known, especially when she was either trying to sleep or make conversation. Or breathe, it seemed. She tried not to consider that this could signal her impending confinement, and instead tried to guess whether she was being elbowed or kicked.
‘You must come and feel it.’ Maybe that was a headbutt?
‘Oh no, my dear. I shall just believe you.’
‘No, come on. Phillipe isn’t here, you’ll have to do this for him.’ She held her hand out and waited. She didn’t say anything when he huffed a sigh but she knew that the tutting sound as he sat beside her was for dramatic effect. Liselotte arranged his palm carefully, pressing it beneath her own as they waited. The Chevalier’s patience was as short as she expected.
‘I can’t feel-’ He had barely begun to speak when her baby lurched, and a limb (definitely an elbow) made itself known. Liselotte smiled and squeezed the hand under her own.
‘See, he knows you. Already can’t let down his Uncle Phillipe.’
The punch line of ‘like his father’ hung between them, but neither voiced it. Phillipe had once felt like he was the literal stitching holding them both together, but Liselotte was not ashamed to admit that she had now claimed a piece of the Chevalier all to herself. And she was rather fond of it.
vi.
The sun had barely set on the first day of Liselotte’s confinement, and she was already convinced she was going to perish from the boredom of it all. She had secretly hoped to have been allowed a modicum of freedom, especially considering her husband wasn’t here to boss her about. Sadly Liselotte had forgotten quite how meddlesome her brother-in-law could be.
‘Sister, I insist.’ Louis had grasped her hands tightly, and deployed his most earnest of gazes. ‘My brother would never forgive me, it is my duty to ensure you and your baby are safe.’
The Chevalier did not disguise his noise of disgust at the words. He’d had his fill of the Bourbon brothers and their ‘duty’ lately, and it caused only the briefest of flickers in Louis’ expression.
‘I understand, truly.’ She gently, but firmly, extricated her hand from his grasp and patted his sleeve. ‘But surely, there’d be no harm in pottering around the gardens once or twice?’
Judging by the look on his face (the king’s face, she reminded herself), there apparently was.
And so she had just passed a thrilling day of staring at her own feet over the bump of her nightgown, and half wondering if anybody would come and see her. Liselotte was especially disappointed that the Chevalier hadn’t shown his face yet. It would be frowned upon, after all, so an illegal visit should have been right up his street.
Her hopes were dashed when the door creaked open only to have Maintenon appear. Liselotte wondered if going mad from loneliness might not be so bad, especially when she suspected she was probably snooping on her behaviour for the king.
‘He’s under the bed.’
‘I’m sure I don’t understand.’
‘The Chevalier, he’s under the bed.’
Her eyebrows had promptly shot to the top of her rather smug forehead. Liselotte made a great point of saying nothing further for a long time, instead choosing a single grape with great care before changing the subject. Watching Maintenon resist the urge to clamber to the floor and look under the bed, whilst maintaining polite conversation, was the most fun she’d had in a while.
vii. The next afternoon, after another morning of toe inspection and intense hair brushing, one of her ladies scurried in with a tiny, well-folded note. She’d thrust it into Liselotte’s hand as if it was on fire, curtsied, and then escaped.
As she unfolded it Liselotte instantly recognised the Chevalier’s immaculate penmanship, and made a mental note to ask him what notes he’d made the poor girl carry before.
‘My dear, I’m so terribly bored. Have you produced a son yet? Nobody at the tables has the slightest idea how to cheat properly, I think I’m going to go mad.’
‘Oh, I’m fine, thank you for asking.’
‘The uncle is a snooper. I’m going to give the old drab another day before she gets bored, then I shall come liberate you.’
Liselotte crushed the letter in her hands and smiled.
viii.
The Chevalier was correct in his suspicions. Madame de Maintenon endured only one further day of Liselotte’s teasing before she failed to reappear, and the Chevalier swept into her dim chamber in the hour before dinner. At least she thought that’s what the hour was, it was getting difficult to tell.
‘Goodness, it’s like a crypt in here.’
‘I hadn’t noticed.’
He took a moment to toe off his shoes before coming to sit on the bed beside her. ‘I brought you a gift. Something you should most definitely not be reading, rather excitable.’ He tossed it into her waiting hands. ‘Particularly after chapter five.’
There was also a deck of playing cards that he had smuggled. One of his own marked decks she was certain, but Liselotte was not in a position to be choosy. She couldn’t help but smile, turning her face to him like he’d hung the moon.
‘Thank you.’
#chevlotte#versailles tv#chevalier de lorraine#liselotte#phillipe d'orleans#fiction#fanfic#my fiction
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Versailles
Versailles is such a MESS. It makes the Tudors look accurate by comparison. They actually film it at Versalles and have amazing costumes and set design, but the writing is mostly impossible. Some of the dialog isjust so terrible. I said in first season that it is a massive indictment of the writers that they looked at all the interesting women with different personalities, histories, and interests and thought, lets mostly not write about them so we can focus on our crappy Original Characters. It gets sooo much worse second season, but the fundamental problem started in the first season with the decision to take Madame de Montespan, and do everything possible to make her dramatically less interesting presumably to make their blandest OC more important. IDK why you would waste Madame de Montespan on this crap, but they decided to. They took someone who RL was a curvy, lively, witty, seductive, bold liver for of drink, gaming, sex, food, and life and decided to make her austere and humorless for no reason. Seriously, why would you do that. you could have so much fun contrasting her with other women at court like Mme de Sévigné, Louise de La Vallière, Marquise de Maintenon, Princess Henrietta of England, Princess Palatine Elizabeth Charlotte, Queen Maria Theresa of Spain, etc.. Why the fuck would they waste that? They skipped most of the height of her popularity, never once had her say anything interesting, let alone witty, and showed zero reason why anyone would be attracted to her. Yes, she did get nasty and desperate towards the end, but they completely skipped all the best and most fun to watch parts.
Also, by making her super skinny and angular like every other woman in the cast except the OC doctor and the Princess Palatine, it is incredibly hard to pick out which one she is, so I often waste a bunch of time in each scene trying to figure out if I'm looking at The Queen, Montespan, or Maintenon. Why not go with an historically accurate woman, who is period appropriate beautiful with a lusher figure? Then she would be easy to spot. It's not like we don't have an embarrassment of riches when it come to portraiture. While we are at it, why not go with an historically accurate pear shaped woman with blonde or light brown hair to play the Queen? It seems to me that having her also visually distinct from the nearly identical woman the casting director decided were hot. There also is a massive shortage of woman with different body types in media and here is an ideal chance to show women with different body types as attractive.
And then there is the nearly complete nonsense they made of the plot. I can spot things that actually happened embedded in the vast pile of shit they made up sprinkled with anachronisms, but they aren't even trying to pretend by season two. I just read an excellent book on the Poison Plot last Spring. The actually events are very dramatic, but they seem to have taken a few things that happened or were rumored to have happened and made the rest up. I just... Why? Why would you do that when the history is so much more interesting and makes way more sense? And so much of it is like that. There should be a shit we know isn't true drinking game, but likely it would result in alcohol poisoning. I also read a book that heavily featured the war they are fighting in the show about a year ago, so that is also pretty fresh, so you can imagine.
Why am I still watching it? Now that Black Sails is gone, this is just about it for an openly gay and bisexual man in a relationship in an historical setting wearing pretty outfits. (Outlander has M/M rape, and gay men longing for straight ones, which is not the same). This relationship may be even more shitty and dysfunctional than the historically accurate version would be and full of weird shit they made up, but it's more an exaggeration of the real one with comparatively smaller distortions than the mess they made of Louis/Montespan so I think that's more the crap writing and love of anachronism than actual homophobia, though obviously I can't swear to that.
So basically I'm here for Phillippe/Chavalier, some of the acting, and the pretty visuals, but it's getting harder to stomache the more dramatically they diverge. Sigh. It's not a Troy situation yet, but are they doing a third season? Because it could end up that way.
I think it infuriates me because it's such a waste of resources, acting ability, costuming/set design brilliance and historical source material. They had the budget and locations to make this Amazing, and they chose to do this instead. On purpose.
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[ @rosesxmischief liked for a starter ]
Things had not been easy of late, and Louis had been standing, watching that...witch burn at the stake for hours. He’d sent the Queen to get the Dauphin inside. It was important he watched these things, but he also was wary of him being too present, sometimes. He’d already been kidnapped once. He’d turned at one point and her saw her, Madame de Monte..that was not even who he considered her to be, anymore. He had been aware that Madame de Maintenon was close by the whole time, and when he headed back inside, he gestured to her, to meet him inside.
Once he got to the room where he had told his former mistress how it would be, he leaned against the desk, standing there stoically, looking almost weary. He was worn out. Recently, he’d cast his mistress away, executed a witch, and he just felt so drained. Philippe had left this morning, too. He just wanted to be in the company of someone who didn’t complicate his life. Once he heard the door open, he sighed. “I could tell that you were close by out there, today, as you were, when I told Madame de Mont..her how it would be. Do you think I am harsh?”
#rosesxmischief#(Madame de Maintenon)#V: I am France [Canal+ Versailles (Main Verse)]#//I hope this works for you :)
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So here we are. The finale of Season 2. I hope you’re sitting down because there is A LOT to unpack in this ep. So let us get right to it without further ado.
We begin with Montespan in her rooms, in tears, topless and furiously scrubbing herself from a basin. It is clear she is frantic and upset, and on one hand I really really feel for her because we all know what it’s like to get in over your head and let emotions overrule common sense in love (we do….DON’T WE??) So it is pretty much over Red Rover for her. On the other hand… good God, woman. Did you seriously think you would stay in favour for ever? That Louis would love you above all others? Did creepy father Etienne not give you that weird ‘fuck no!’ gut feeling at all??
So then we flash to Agathe who is in her home and doing some kind of meditation/praying thing (her rooms are actually quite decent and I wonder at what level she’s at on the ladder of respectability). Cut to a scene of guards on horses riding and Marchal-to-the-rescue as they gallop through the fields. Obvs on their way to arrest the witch – yay! He shoves open the door and she remains seated, eyes closed, as if she hasn’t even heard them enter. The guards surround her chair and Marchal watches her closely, then turns the tarot card on the table. The Labyrinth we saw before. She opens her eyes, says, “I’ve been expecting you.” Marchal is unimpressed, asks if she can predict her own future, then orders the guards to search the room and that’s their cue to basically trash the place. They find a trunk, the box with the poisons, and a disc-thingy with a pentagram on it, which Marchal smashes. Then a notebook is discovered – her little black book of clients. As Marshal scans it, he sees Sophie’s name, swallows and looks a bit… worried? Taken aback? Disappointed? Thoughtful? Hard to tell. But it does affect him. Agathe smirks: “found a friend of yours?” Unimpressed Marchal is unimpressed and he orders a guard to bind her.
I am SO Liselotte right now.
Now we are outside in the gardens of Versailles, with Thomas doing a reading of his prose to an audience and UGH I am really hating his smug little weasel face, knowing what he’s done with Philippe and knowing he didn’t do it because of any affection or need. *burns him in effigy*.
We see Philippe with Liselotte by his side, looking mighty unimpressed (sames, Madame. Sames). Louis looks back at Maintenon. Thomas finishes his blah-blah, they all clap and Marchal approaches. Louis praises Thomas and Thomas-the-weasel smiles his shitty little smug smile UGH *smashes his face*.
Look at him. That is one backpfeifengesicht if ever I saw one.
Louis is well pleased: “your love of detail and fidelity to the truth can only be applauded, Thomas.” Does Philippe agree with this awesomeness? “Makes French breasts burst with pride, brother.” And OMG that truly FILTHY look Liselotte gives Philippe. I just can’t even 😂 Louis finishes with, “one day soon, I shall reward you in full.” which sounds quite ominous and creepy and I wonder if on some level, Thomas kind of knows that his cover is blown. But still, he smiles and is all “thank you, Sire,” and then Louis looks to Marchal and we are back to secret spy business. The Queen glances at Maintenon and I am wondering if she knows about the garden snogging. Surely someone has told her by now? Louis, Marchal and Bontemps make a huddle under a really nice garden canopy and see CHAIRS WITH ARMS that should not be there but hold that thought because they’re now talking about Agathe. Potions have been found, plus satanic materials. Louis is all, “bring her to me,” and Marchal is “to the palace?”
Hell, yeah. Louis is all about never showing fear to the devil and I could spend pages making screen caps of Marchal’s expressions, so full of thought yet revealing nothing. Marchal hands over the client book and Louis looks taken aback. Agathe is the source of the poisons. “How many were involved?” Louis wants to know, but there are too many to count, which we see as Louis flicks through page after page of names and details….aaaaaand his gaze falls upon a familiar name. The Duc de Luxembourg. THEN….. there it is.
Marquise de Montespan. And Louis cannot quite believe it. He looks up from the book, across the gathered nobles, and watches Montespan in a subdued gown, standing on the edges as if already an outcast, looking from the outside in at all the favoured ones. You can see him thinking, going back through his memories to all the times she could have possibly snuck him something, got him to take drugs… all the opportunities she had. I think he’s a bit shook.
CUE INTRO MUSIC FOR THE LAST TIME THIS SEASON.
The guards bring Agathe into a private room with Marchal, Louis and Bontemps, and she offers a deep and mocking bow, to which Bontemps is offended. “You would be advised to show respect.” Yeah, nup. Agathe is all smirky and smug and hey, here’s another one whose face is in need of a slap. “You stand accused of witchcraft and sorcery,” Louis says tightly. Unsurprisingly. she pleads guilty on both counts. She is not a person to snivel and beg. She seems to me someone who would proudly claim all the deeds she is charged with. She claps back with, “to what do you stand accused? Tyranny? Arrogance? Vanity?” Louis ain’t biting, instead asking about Montespan. “Her hands are clean,” Agathe says. “She came to me for a love potion.” She laughs. “Don’t try and tell me it didn’t work?” Louis slowly circles her. “I would have expected more humility in your predicament.” Ah, but she already knows her fate. She laughs again: “They tell me Good Friday is an apt time for a sacrifice.” Louis is quite a bit offended that she is ridiculing her maker. But Agathe doesn’t care; she does not seek forgiveness: “I am not the sinner here. You and your Lord have no dominion in my world.” Which is quite a good comeback for people who want to push their religious beliefs upon those who do not follow that faith, but in 17th century France it is not really a smart idea to shun the church so publicly. Especially to Louis. “We are equals, you and I,” she goes on, almost pityingly. “You cannot choose to be born a king. Anymore than I choose to be a pauper.” That simply ENRAGES Louis and he yells back: “I am chosen by GOD!” Agathe raises her voice too: “Your Lord giveth and he will taketh away. History will record your fleeting moment in blood! A tide is coming that will SWEEP YOU AWAY!” (OMG this is so powerful, it gave me chills!) Louis studies her a moment then steps back, says calmly, “All of Versailles will see you burn for this.” Agathe gets a little ranty, says “I will not be vanquished while my agents are at large.” (oooh, Louis’ expression, knowing she has more people working for her…) She gets louder, saying how she has sewn the seeds of sedition and is going to turn everything into… I dunno what because Bontemps suddenly loses his shit, steps forward and does what we all want to do and slaps her across the face. As she’s dragged from the room, she yells, “A TIDE!” and then she’s gone and Louis looks at Marchal and says, “find who they are.” Then we cut to Agathe being led through the palace, through the salons, and everyone turns to watch this display, some with “OH SHIT” expressions, and she smirks at Gaston and Montespan as she gets hustled out. Gaston mumbles, “show a brave face. So there can be no suspicion.” But Montespan ain’t having that. Or him. She wants nothing more to do with him. It’s over and nothing can be proven. (RLY?) In time it will all be forgotten, apparently. (RLY????) Gaston disagrees. He moves off as everyone else is stuck in gossipy whispers.
Ah, and it is evening and we are with Cassel who is coughing up blood in his bed. Man, he looks really bad. I guess that’s what slowly being poisoned will do to you. Sophie steps to the bed, asking what he will have her do. “Water, please,” he rasps, looking all haggard and on his last legs. She serves him, helps him drink and it is clear she is quite upset about it. Poor thing. She looks torn, and I am really liking the depth of humanity she shows. She could have been written as cold and determined: considering what Cassel did to her, I would not have been surprised. But instead her character remains true to her heart and she is feeling remorse and conflict with her actions.
We are back in Louis’ bedchamber with Bontemps, Marchal and the little black book of Agathes’. Bontemps is frustrated – he says Hercules rid himself of the hydra by chopping off all its’ heads. Louis throws down the book in frustration and stomps out, and we next see Montespan asleep in her bed. Louis suddenly enters and she slowly sits up, cautious. His Majesty has come to the wrong room, perhaps? Louis says nup, it was def. you I came to see. And of course, Montespan is weirded out and wondering what he is up to. He leans in on the bed, staring at her. “It has been a long time.” Montespan replies: “Not since you have been with another woman.” Yeah, nup. She’s wrong – Louis has been occupied. “With Madame Scarron?” AHHHH, now SOMEONE notices! But apparently that is careless talk, and “She is Madame de Maintenon now.” OF COURSE SHE IS. Of course, everyone will think you are shagging her, now she has a fancy title and chateau and stuffs. Then Louis holds out his hand to Montespan, even smiles and wiggles his fingers as she hesitates. “What have you been up to?” He asks casually and OMG the look on her face….. She slowly rises from the bed. “Keeping a low profile. Waiting. Hoping.” Louis replies: “The waiting is over,” and the brief smile on Montespan’s face gives me a sad. “I hope so,” she says, then circles him slowly. “I knew it,” she finally adds, with an almost smug smile. (UGH. Not sad anymore) “I know you better than anyone. I knew it was a lie when you said you did not love me.” He steps behind her, gently brushes her shoulders. Apparently everyone lies sometimes. Oh, but she has never lied about her feelings for him. But in other things? asks Louis. She turns to face him and declares, “I have nothing to hide.” Louis replies with “There is sin in thought as well as deed,” and he is so giving her a chance to confess right here, but she is gonna brazen it out. She has nothing to confess, except that she loves him. As Louis removes her nightshift she says she will do anything to have him back. Louis replies, “For that, you must tell me the truth.” Fully nekkid, Montespan slides back onto the bed, obvs thinking she can win him over with nekkid boobage and her magic vajayjay, saying, “come to me, my king. I will show you I have no secrets.” He gives her a brief look up and down, then crawls onto the bed over her, kissing up from her belly, then strokes back her hair, murmurs, “finally. The scales fall from my eyes.” She moves in to kiss him, and they do, then he holds her back and the grip on her face looks pretty uncomfortable. She gasps as he gets out, “and you have betrayed me for the last time.” (Louis getting his Darth Vader on, lulz). Then he pushes her face back, then shoves her legs aside in contempt and walks out as she curls up naked on the bed and cries. OKAY, she is not very cluey, is she? How can she not think at least something was off when he chooses to see her and starts talking about secrets after she JUST SAW Agathe arrested the same day? Maybe a, “hmmm…. he has rejected me, told me he didn’t love me, then Agathe the witch gets arrested and now he’s asking me about what secrets I am holding onto?” SUSPICIOUS, MUCH?
Next day, and Louis meets the duc de Luxembourg, all smiles and hellos. Eh-up, there’s gonna be some major shit going down now. And what a lovely scene this is, with Louis’ intelligence and gift for words really coming out here when he says he needs the Duc’s help with ‘a dilemma’.
Louis: I am in two minds how to deal with my enemies. Do I educate them or punish them? Luxembourg: Depends what they’ve done, Sire. Louis: (casually) Well, if I came upon information incriminating someone I trusted…. how should I deal with that betrayal? Luxembourg: (clearly unaware) There is only one way to deal with a traitor, Sire. Louis: (gently laughs) Even if it was someone like you?
*CLANG* The penny drops for Luxembourg. He knows. They stare at each other and Louis’ smile slowly falls away. Luxembourg’s expression goes from disbelief to distress and he starts to cry as he hangs his head. Louis says calmly. “If you tell me the truth, you can leave through that door.” (such a beautiful door it is, too. Look. I would want to take it with me, not gonna lie.) “If you do not, you will leave through that door.” His other option is, of course, still a beautiful door, but flanked with the king’s guards, so obvs not the smart choice.
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Glorious door to freedom
Glorious door to jail
I’ll take door number one, thanks, Eddie.
So now we hear Luxembourg’s reasons: “My wife’s father was obstructing our investments. She wished him dead.” The in-laws. Dammit. Those bastards. He heard about Agathe supplying poison and invited dear ol’ Dad around for supper. Louis says he is deeply saddened Luxembourg didn’t come to him… “I am a reasonable man. I always help those loyal to the crown.” Luxembourg snaps back with, “I fear you would not listen unless it was part of your plan!” Look at the shock on Louis’ face…. LOOK AT IT!
“Because I frighten you?” Louis gets out. “Is that it? Because I am a tyrant?” Clearly, Agathe’s words have resonated. “You killed a nobleman in my palace.” Shit. Luxembourg cries, “I beg forgiveness, Sire! I will devote my life to your service without question.” Yeah….. Louis smiles at him, says he appreciates his honesty… “my friend.” Luxembourg thanks him, kisses Louis’ ring and steps to the unguarded door. Uh-uh. Not so fast. The doors open, the guards enter and yesssss….. Marchal enters too. Luxembourg is all WTAF??? but Louis says calmly, “do you really think I could let this go unpunished? After all I have given you? FRANCE. REWARDS. HER LOYAL SERVANTS. AND SHE PUNISHES THOSE WHO BETRAY HER!” You go, Louis, getting all aggro and yelly and I Am The GODDAMN KING. Luxembourg is removed and Louis says tightly to Marchal, “Strike now. Without mercy.” And the Marquise de Montespan? “Not yet.”
Now we have a fab montage of short scenes, with Marchal and guards (shout out to the lovely Cédric Vallet, who is Marchal’s Chief Musketeer), entering the rooms of nobles, dragging them from their beds and rounding them up from the salons. Women, men… all in chaos. We see a dude hurrying down a corridor, then locking himself in a salon, but the guards are inside and he gets grabbed and dragged away .. and can we stop for a moment to acknowledge Marchal casually sipping wine amidst all this arresting? LULZ. Montespan sees this, and Gaston slithers over, hisses, “They’re arresting half the court!” And she is all, “calm yourself. We two remain in the clear.” But for how much longer? He wants to make a tactical withdrawal but Montespan disagrees. She wants to “push ahead.” ……with what? Oh, I’m glad you asked. “There is one person who deserves punishment above all.” Gaston is freaked by another noble being dragged out, but Montespan, however, is so very cool.
New scene and urgent ominous music plays as we see a shot of the village and then Gaston in Agathe’s house, retrieving a bundle from a hidden hole in the roof. Then he’s back in his rooms at Versailles, brushes off Odile (?? Why is she grabbing him?) then opens the bundle, revealing bottles of poison. “What are going to do with them?” Odile asks. Gaston gets out: “Go get me something to drink.” She goes, but does not look happy.
We are now out in the gardens, on a pleasant stroll with Thomas (UGH) and Philippe. While the gardens are lovely, Thomas wants to know where they are going… somewhere private, away from prying eyes? Nah, Philippe is in more of a romantic mood, indicating a stone bench set against a row of hedges (which still looks fairly public, being in clear sight of strolling courtiers) and a valet with wine and noms. “What is life worth if you can’t bask in beauty? And talk about poetry? The words of love?” Thomas laments the fact that his words these days are military, all about the king’s ambitions. Ahhh, so here Philippe is planting the seed, because he still has to tell Thomas all that stuff Louis wanted him to, but without arousing Thomas’ suspicions. Philippe subtly flatters, saying Thomas is a poet, that he sees the reality behind the façade. He all-casual-like leans against Thomas as he launches into it: “take Versailles, for example. It is truly a triumph of style over substance. It has my brother written all over. Same goes for the war. He has you writing all that propaganda when the truth is, things are obviously in chaos.”
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He charms and flirts and touches Thomas’ hair, making Thomas laugh. It’s a very good effort. “Why would you withdraw all of your troops from Holland, when we all know that is where the real war is won or lost?” Yeah, Thomas’ expression indicates he’s noticed that little clue being dropped. But I’m not sure he knows he has been played. Then Thomas places his glass down, turns to kiss Philippe, and as Philippe shifts to get into it, says “the king expects me back in court.” Philippe looks at him, smiles: “We could just have sex if you’d rather.” Huh. Thomas smiles back. “Maybe later.” (and GTFO WITH THAT SHIT. He’s just not that into you, Philippe. He is soooo not down with the man love AT ALL. UGH. Because the only legitimate excuse for denying a prince is going above his head, claiming the king needs him) Thomas leaves and Philippe’s expression is all uggggh, dammit. Failed again. I don’t think he’s annoyed with the cockblocking, tbh. More like, “I need to keep him here, to convince him of this fake war story.” We see Thomas stomp off with such a shitty look on his face and I think that maybe he has swallowed that little story of Philippes’.
Maybe….. Maybe not. Because we are back with Cassel on his deathbed… He rasps, “Is that you, my dear…” To which Thomas answers, “you must be losing your sight.” WTF Cassel has HIS EYES CLOSED. Cassel replies: “I can still detect a bad smell.” AHHH. Thomas is furious. “It was you, wasn’t it? You betrayed me to the king.” Cassel gets out: “Now why would you think that?” The Duc may be one step away from kicking the bucket, but is still sassy as hell.
So, Philippe’s jig is up. Totally. The spy was spied on and now he’s aware of the spy spying on him. But the second spy is still spying, thinking the original spy is still in spy-mode. Thomas says he knows because of a sudden enthusiasm for his company by a certain Monsieur and a “strong urge to divulge secrets of State.” I KNEW Philippe was coming on too strong! Thomas is quite angry, wants to know if Cassel betrayed him to the king, and I detect a certain outrage, and I am all a bit WTF, as if Cassel had any kind of loyalty to Thomas. Cassel starts to laugh and Thomas grabs him by the throat. “I warned you! Didn’t I?” And srsly, why would Cassel give one shit about Thomas blackmailing him when Cassel knows he is dying? I would totally do the same in Cassel’s shoes – snitching on the asshole who’s not only blackmailing him, but also shagging his wife. Although I’m not sure if he did it for the first reason more than the second. Whatever the reason, Thomas is going down and Cassel is pleased. Then we see Sophie approaching the rooms, and Thomas still chokes Cassel, then Sophie bursts in and shoves Thomas off him. She is teary… “I’m sorry,” she whispers to Cassel (oh, my heart!) and Cassel whispers, “Sophie…” touches her face and is gone. Meanwhile, Thomas is being a broody little shit behind them, giving her a look when she glances back at him.
Whew. And we are only 22 minutes into the ep!
We are now in Louis’ rooms with Philippe giving them all a debrief. And Philippe is all uuuugh: “I said you were making a mess of it by withdrawing the troops from Holland so you could focus on tackling the east. Then he left.” He was due to speak with Louis an hour ago. Bontemps asks if Thomas has seen through it. Philippe adds, “we were drinking. It was in the heat of passion.” …..Ummmm. It wasn’t really. Not much passion there, just a brief kiss from Thomas. Louis gives him a look, Philippe looks back at him. Philippe: That’s exactly what we agreed, wasn’t it? Louis: You took him for a fool. An error of judgement. And not for the last time. Philippe: That’s not fair! I’m the one selling his arse for France! Louis: Find him! Maybe it’s not too late to retrieve the situation. Philippe gives a mocking bow then leaves as Louis adds, “he must not leave the palace.”
Back in Sophie’s rooms, where she is demanding to know why Thomas would hurt a dying man. He grabs her hand: “There’s no time to explain. I must leave tonight and I want you to come with me.” Sophie is all confused and breathless and worried. “Why should I trust you?” Thomas replies: “If they catch me, they will kill me.” Okay, using Cassel’s death as an excuse. Which is a bit silly, considering everyone knew Cassel was dying and no one else knows Thomas strangled him. Sophie could just not say anything and Thomas would be in the clear. Yyeah, Sophie ain’t down with that shit: “Why? What have you done? What kind of outlaw are you?” YAY! uhhh…… No…. here we go. Thomas plays the blackmail card: “one who knows all about you. That you are a Protestant and that your mother conspired against the king for William of Orange.” The penny drops for Sophie now. GOOD GIRL. but UGH he plays that “yes, I am a spy too but then I fell in love with you, now are you coming with me or not?!” card and I am yelling at my screen going “NOOO SOPHIE DO NOT BE SO STUPID UGGGGH.” She is confused and he kisses her, tells her he’ll be at the stables at midnight, then swiftly leaves. And Sophie is looking distraught and I want her to go to Marchal for help because we all know HE WILL FIX IT.
Tbh, I thought I’d be more happy with Cassel’s death. He was a nasty piece of shit, sure. But he also had complexity and depth and he did something ultimately for the good of the king. And Louis, to his credit, did not throw him in jail when Cassel confessed to conspiracy. Pip Torrens was brilliant on the screen and I will miss his evilness.
Philippe returns to his rooms, tosses his coat on the bed and we see the Chevalier (FINALLY) in a chair, an empty glass and two more with wine on the table. “Where the fuck have you been?” He says softly yet angrily and I have to pause for a second. Did Philippe not tell him to GTFO in ep 9 after that attempted suicide stunt? “Here we go again,” murmurs Philippe and I am totally with him on that one. *sigh*
The Chevalier: You were with him, weren’t you? Philippe: (pours water into the empty wine glass) I’m not going to have this conversation with you. The Chevalier: Then I’m going ’round to your little sweetheart right now and I’m going to rip his throat out. Philippe: You’re not going to do anything of the kind because you’re a notorious coward and he’s not my sweetheart. The Chevalier: (gives him a look then gets to his feet) I’m a coward, am I? Do you really want to see how brave I can be? Philippe: Look, it’s not what you think! The Chevalier: (limp-stomps to the bed and grabs his coat) I think he’s a snivelling little bastard. And I’ll kill him.
Philippe gives him a look and I actually think that he believes the Chevalier will actually follow through. As the Chevalier heads to the doors, Philippe blurts out, “It’s a charade. Louis is using me to feed information to the Dutch. That’s why I’m flirting with him.” The Chevalier turns, snorts. “I’ve heard some lame excuses in my time..” then walks out. And I am WTAF he WANTED the truth and when he gets it, he doesn’t believe it???? SRSLY? What is so far-fetched with that scenario, given what happened in S1????
Right. We are in the gardens now, with Louis and Maintenon strolling, then taking a seat along a path. Louis comes here for sanctuary, apparently. Then he tells her he has a record of who is behind the poisonings. Hundreds of them. His friends. (and right now I am so reminded of the differences between how Louis is portrayed in the series, compared with Benoît Magimel’s version in the 2000 movie, Le Roi Danse. There is a magnificent scene between him and Lully, his court composer, where Lully says, “I thought we were friends, and Louis replies coolly, “I have no friends.” If you can find the English subtitled version, I urge you to watch. You can buy the French DVD from Amazon)
Anyway, back to Louis and Maintenon, and Louis says some of those friends are “close…. very close. One in particular.” Maintenon, with her calm voice of reason, replies, “then the betrayal is greater. An untreated wound can fester in the soul just as in the body.” Yes, Louis knows what he must do, and wonders why he hesitates, why he doubts himself. And Maintenon is all “Look into my eyes. I believe in you. You must trust yourself.” And Louis says, “you are perfect,” and they have a good ol’ snog. And OMG it JUST occurred to me that they killed off Jacques to make way for Maintenon! All his cryptic metaphors and calm advice, coming from a place of unselfishness, and borne of a desire to just help Louis rather than gain something in return. This is EXACTLY what Maintenon is doing. Even their tone of voice is similar. But now with Maintenon, you get the romantic element thrown in, plus the jealousy from Montespan (and likely the queen when she finds out they’re shagging). UUGGGGHHHH *MIND BLOWN* Anyways, Maintenon stops all the kissing and whispers about it being wrong, and lulz Louis plays the ‘how can it be when God has sent you to me?’ card and when she reminds him he is married, he is all “it is a marriage without love.” Ouch, queen. “And me?” Maintenon replies. “What would I be? Love without marriage?” UGH WOMAN. You overstep yourself just a bit to presume you know the king’s affections. She goes on: “Whatever exists between us is purer, stronger than the desires of the flesh.” Then totally gets up and leaves (WITHOUT HIS PERMISSION) and Louis is left sitting there quite a bit pissed off.
Right. I am so looking forward to Season 3 where they will hopefully show Louis with a stack more mistresses. Pleasepleaseplease….
Back in Montespan’s rooms now and she is looking determined about something. So Louis is under the impression that all she has done is ask Agathe for some love potions…? I think so. We see guards burst into another room, smash things up and find the pouch of poisons Gaston had retrieved previously. So, his rooms then. People stop by the door to gawp (car crash, 17th century version) and Gaston is there too, watching them as the Chief Musketeer claims, “one is missing,” and quite rightly decides it’s a smart idea to move along. He turns… ah-HA. Marchal stands behind him and it really looks like Gaston is about to wet himself. Still, he brazens it out with a cool “can I help you?” To which Marchal says just as coolly, “yes, I believe you can. Whether or not you are willing is another matter.” And the maid Odile is pulled forward by a guard. Gaston loses it… snarls out, “you TREACHEROUS BITCH!” and lunges forward, but Marchal.. OMG bless you, you wonderful man. Marchal grabs Gaston by the face and hurls him back into the guards. The poison pouch is shown, Gaston knows the jig is up, Marchal gives him a look then turns away. And Gaston is dragged, slo-mo-style, through the corridors for all to see, getting in Montespan’s face to give her a panicky stare-down, to which she does not bat an eyelash. His downfall is complete. Montespan quickly hurries off.
Marchal strides into his office/dungeon, Gaston behind, and they pass a bunch of locked-up nobles. Marchal shoves Gaston up against a cell, and a rough looking Agathe steps from the shadows, all messy and bloody about the face. Gaston gasps, “I have failed you. Forgive me.” But Agathe says nothing and he’s dragged away to a rat-cell. “You are defeated, witch,” Marchal says calmly. “where is your dark master now?” As he starts to walk away, Agathe replies: “In my head. just like he is in yours. We both know this is not over yet.” He gives her a cool, calculating look then walks away. And I am reminded of that scene in The Incredibles where Syndrome goes on about how stupid villains are when they go into a monologue about their plans and how the good guys won’t defeat them etc etc. AGATHE. WTF are you doing??? Has no one ever told you to, uhh…. like, NOT TELL THE GOOD GUYS THAT YOU’RE STILL DOING EVIL STUFFS?
We’re back in Sophie’s rooms, where she is cleaning up Cassel’s face, and Marchal is standing there and says what we are all thinking: “You have a very soft heart.” Sophie replies: “everybody deserves dignity in death.” Marchal wastes no time in telling her that he knows what she did, that her name was on a list. Oh, and LORDY how much do I LOOOOVE this man when he adds, “It has now been erased. You conscience should be clear.” Sophie abruptly stands, says tightly. “And what of your conscience? Is that clean?” Marchal: “I leave the past behind me. I hope you will do the same.” To which Sophie does a massive nose curl and strides to the dresser to retrieve a bag. WTF is she so angry with him??? Marchal issues a word of warning: “Your lover may not be the man you think he is.” well, DUH. We know this. Why can he not just forbid her to go? Even lock her up for her own good? Or maybe… tell her?? But no. She simply says to him, “everybody has their secrets,” then walks out the door.
Right, so we see Thomas enter his dark rooms, then rummage through a trunk. He jumps when Philippe casually asks from the bed, “where do you think you’re going?” and is all ‘what are you doing here?’ Philippe: “I like surprises,” and rises from the bed. “And I don’t like people walking out on me.” Thomas gets a bit grovelly: “I’m very sorry, I had urgent matters to attend to,” and Philippe is sorry too – for coming on a bit too strong (WAT. Thomas has already given him a blow job – I think the ‘coming on too strong’ is moot at this point) . And Philippe doesn’t at all sound sincere, especially when he says they could maybe try again. NOOO. THOMAS KNOWS. Okay, so there’s quite a bit of snogging then Philippe pushes Thomas back onto the bed, then more snogging. UGH. Then…. Philippe reaches for a dagger in his breeches, Thomas notices and is all, “That’s not very nice of you.”
And it is ON.
Thomas hurls Philippe from the bed and the knife slices through a window covering. Philippe slashes forward but Thomas leaps back every time. Thomas grabs a pot/vase and deflects a blow, before Philippe knocks it from his hand. Philippe lunges and they then wrestle for the knife, falling over a table and slamming into the floor. Philippe thrusts again, Thomas grabs his arm, Philippe punches Thomas in the face but it’s obviously not hard enough because Thomas punches back and Philippe goes down. As he lays there, dazed and prone, Thomas crawls onto him and just starts wailing into Philippe (OMG *CRIES*) punching him until his nose is all bloody. NOOOOOOOO. Why are there no guards rushing in for backup? Then Thomas picks up the dagger and FFS DOES this IDIOT not know how bad it would be to kill the king’s brother???
THEN OMG……. THE CHEVALIER TO THE RESCUE!!!!!!
I am pretty sure I screamed at this point. The fight scenes as so very well choreographed.
The Chevalier glances at prone Philippe in panic and horror, then leaps forward, yelling for the guards as Thomas runs to the window and leaps out into the night.
Now we have two simultaneous scenes – Thomas hurrying to the stables, and the guards rushing in and the Chevalier all trembly over Philippe, seeing all the blood and not seeing him move. The guards are NOT MOVING THEIR ASSES QUICK ENOUGH, no, they just look casually out the damn window, meanwhile Thomas watches Sophie standing with two horses and a stable dude, all out there on the grass and in the open. Thomas strides out, smiles as Sophie gives a little relieved gasp…. and then the Chevalier just seems to appear from the shadows behind him, with such a fucking badass look on his face. He slowly raises his musket and takes cool, calm aim.
And shoots Thomas.
ABOUT FUCKING TIME. YESSSSS! THIS IS WHAT THE CHEVALIER IS ALL ABOUT AND I AM TOTALLY ON BOARD THIS TRAIN!! WOOOOHOOOOO!!!!
Sophie screams, Thomas collapses, the horses rear, and the smoke wisps around the Chevalier like some awesome metaphor for dark vigilante justice and badassery. YES.
Sophie rushes over to Thomas, holds his head in her lap as he bleeds and goes through the motions of dying, then she kisses him and hurries over to mount her horse while the guards come a-running, Marchal in the lead. Marchal yells out, “STOP!” but Sophie wheels her horse around and gallops through the gates. The guards take aim but Marchal commands them all to hold their fire. “She is innocent,” he says, as the Chevalier stands there all casual-like with his musket pointed in the air. I love them both right now..
Whew. Well, we are back in the palace, in Louis’ rooms, and Philippe dabs at his bleeding nose while the Chevalier attempts to explain to Louis why he shot Thomas: “Believe me, Sire, I had no intention of causing trouble. I saw your brother in pain… My anger was too strong for me.” And I am just going NOOOOOO why does he have to ruin his Badass Shooting with a grovelling apology? This is what he should be doing after that little shit beat the crap out of THE BLOODY PRINCE OF FRANCE! He deserved to die and no one is going to judge the Chevalier for killing him. Hell, he would be celebrated for coming to Philippe’s defence. And yet, here we are, listening to him stutter and desperately justify his actions to Louis. And then Louis commands him to silence and says, “I have brought you here to express my gratitude. You have shown honour and valour in ridding the palace of a dangerous spy.” Stunned Chevalier is stunned. Louis continues: “And as a reward you will receive an annual stipend so you are no longer in debt, nor so reliant on my brother, and you will be given rooms in the east wing.” As the Chevalier can’t quite believe it, Louis issues a condition, that he start to “behave like a nobleman. Your predilection for alcohol and powders will cease if you wish to remain associated with my court.” Of course, the Chevalier is gushingly grateful, to which Louis repeats, “Will you shut up?” Okay, let me get this right. The Chevalier had thought that by killing Thomas (whom he did not believe was a spy even though Philippe told him so: we see his surprise when Louis confirms it) would mean punishment from Louis? Punishment for killing a man who was about to kill the Prince of France? FUCKSAKE. The Chevalier is a high-ranking noble (not that we see it here: his importance to the court seems to have either been ignored or glossed over in the telling) so he damn-well knows it would be his duty to kill weasel Thomas. And he would also know that Louis would be grateful for it and very likely reward him. So the Chevalier’s surprise when Louis not only thanks him but gives him monies is so very frustrating, because it’s not the way it would’ve happened.
So now Louis then goes over to Philippe. Louis: Brother. You are alive. Philippe: (quietly) No thanks to you. Louis: You were in the service of France. Philippe: It would’ve been good propaganda, wouldn’t it? Had I died. Your brother sacrifices himself. For you. Louis: Please, try to be reasonable- Philippe: What would you have written on my tombstone? (small snort) Gave his arse for France? (Slowly heads to the doors) Louis: Brother, please. (Philippe slowly turns) If you had died tonight I would have lost my closest friend. Philippe: (looking sad and forlorn) Why should I believe you? Louis: Because after all we have been through… After all the hurt I have caused you, you love me as I love you. (walks towards sad puppy face Philippe). If you walk out now, you walk out on that love.
And then, with Philippe all still bashed and bloody and SAD PUPPY EYES, Philippe is the one to lean in first and they embrace and the music swells and yes, I CRY because this is the one thing Philippe wanted from Louis and now he finally has it OMGGGG…. And then….. Louis says, “Tomorrow you will go to war. If that is what you wish.” Philippe cannot quite believe it, and he immediately glances over to the Chevalier who is watching their exchange, and I can see his face is sad but also kinda “yes, this is what you really want, I know.” Then Philippe says to Louis, “no sudden last-minute change of mind?” And Louis gives a small smile and replies: “I want you to go to Holland and destroy William of Orange. For me. For France. For you.” Philippe smiles, turns and walks out, and the Chevalier quickly follows, giving Louis a bow.
Wow. Okay. Nearly 20mins to go and I am EMOTIONALLY DRAINED. We are now moving through the dungeons, the camera shaky and rapid, with a creepy whisper in the air, and we get to Agathe’s cell where she paces and chants creepy-Satan things in (possibly) Latin. The guard outside looks worried and crosses himself, and we cut to Montespan in her room at a table, toying with a vial of poison. Agathe still whisper-chants, Montespan appears to be thinking.
Then we are back outside, daytime, seeing shots of the gardens before we watch Montespan enter the chapel in a subdued dress and vail. She is in confession with Bossuet and he does not look impressed. “I have done things. Evil things. I accuse myself of sins of the flesh. Of pride. And of wrath. And of other things I dare not mention.” Is she truly sorry, Bossuet asks? She is. Oh, then that’s okay because the Lord will forgive her if she says the act of contrition. And she does, and it is a VERY GOOD recital, with the correct inflection of emotion and tears. Bossuet looks forward to seeing her at communion, and is pleasantly surprised when Montespan asks permission to stay and pray. So she goes through the motions, kneeling and signing the cross, and Bossuet watches her and is well pleased and happy because he thinks she is all penitent and has found God. UGH. Yeah, the look she gives his retreating back tells us quite clearly she is still the same old Montespan and up to something.
Louis is going through his morning lever, looking not very happy, and then he and the queen walk into the chapel as holy music swells, then Philippe and a not-very-impressed Liselotte enter (the Chevalier immediately behind them) and Philippe says to Liselotte, “You did well to stay. Versailles is fun once you get used to it.” Liselotte replies: “Versailles will be fun when it gets used to me.” Everyone walks in, courtiers bow, and all take their place as the hymn continues. The Chevalier steps to Philippe’s side, but Philippe says and does nothing. Louis eyes Maintenon, who looks a bit heart-eyes and breathy. The queen is looking a bit.. stoic? Tight lipped? Maybe she has found out about the snogging? Then Louis and the queen kneel and the sermon begins. Meanwhile, Montespan walks in after everyone is focused on Bossuet: “It is only through the light can the long shadow of death be banished.” he says. Quite a subtext here, all about hope and resurrection and peace, and Montespan is struggling to hold it together.
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We are in Marchal’s dungeon now, and he is punching the crap out of Gaston, wanting to know who Agathe’s other agents are. Gaston is all panicky when Marchal prepares to break his pinky finger, quickly getting out, “I can save the king’s life! But not if you touch another hair on my head.” As Marchal slowly steps back, Gaston adds, “and in return you will give me full amnesty and safe passage to Bordeaux.” Marchal says that only the king can grant such a wish, and Gaston half-laughs and says something that sounds like, “the faster he’ll run or no wishes at all.” Then adds, “the ghosts of his victims are here for revenge.” Marchal is not impressed: “you will be freed only if the king survives.” Gaston swallows. “Can I trust you?” (LULWAT). And in answer, Marchal shoves him against the wooden post he’s chained to, grabs his shirt front and says, “if he dies, you die.” Then the church bells begin to chime, the hymns swell and we see Bossuet walking with the wine and wafers… Montespan starts to cry…. everyone lines up to receive the blessing as Bossuet reads from the bible in Latin…. then we are back with Gaston and Marchal and Gaston says, “Hmmm. Easter Sunday. A sermon. Prayers-” Marchal begins to think as Gaston adds, “Tick. Tock. Tick. Tock.” And Marchal strides out. Cut back to the chapel, to the singing choir as Bossuet picks up a wafer and places it in Louis’ mouth… and Montespan is desperately trying to hold it together, tears now falling, her face torn with emotion. And damn, GO, MARCHAL!!!!! RUN LIKE THE WIND!!!! He races through the gates, across the courtyard, then pelts up the stairs, screaming, “DOORS!”
Back in the chapel, and the queen receives the wafer, then the wine is uncovered and poured, and Montespan is losing it now, in real distress. And the hymn still plays over the top of these scenes, giving them all a creepy, fatalistic ambiance. The wine is poured in slo-mo, and then the camera pans to the crowd – we see Louvois, Bontemps – and the wine just keeps going. Bossuet stops, Louis makes the sign on the cross… and we are running with Marchal, the camera all shaky, heading hell-for-leather straight to the chapel doors, and the guards quickly open them and then we see the choir still singing, all pure and ethereal as Louis takes the wine glass and brings it to his lips… Montespan wipes her tear-stained face, openly distraught, and Louis tilts the cup up and OMG THE TENSION IS KILLING MEEEEEEEE and JUST as he is about to take a sip, Marchal charges in and screams, “NOOOOOO!!!!!” and Louis stops, Marchal races up to him and takes the cup, murmurs breathlessly, “it is poison, Sire. De Foix confessed.” As everyone whispers, Louis and Bontemps look shocked, then Bontemps takes the wine jug and Louis says, “who else? He could not have done this alone.” And Marchal and Louis share a look, Marchal looking confused then thoughtful and they both slowly turn to look at the assembled crowd. Louis knows. He scans the faces… then he sees her, tears in her eyes and gasping. He knows. His expression is almost disbelieving for a second, then his face hardens as it sinks in. Montespan gasps, hand over her mouth, turns and walks out.
Next scene – we enter a private room of Louis’ and see Montespan in front of Louis, Maintenon standing near a window, a fire burning in the hearth. “Someone tried to poison me while I worshipped God,” Louis begins tightly. Montespan says she is innocent, but Louis does not believe it. “Innocent?” He holds out Agathe’s black book. “Yet you procured poison.” Ah, now she changes her story to “It was a mistake. I did not go through with it.” And what about the heretic priest? A satanic mass? The blood of a child spilled? Montespan is teary. “No, I could never do such a thing!” Yeah, Louis ain’t having none of that. “You went to see him! ADMIT IT!”
Her reply? “Everything I did, I did for you.” Oh, okaaaay, then. That makes it perfectly OKAY and TOTALLY NOT HER FAULT. Louis slowly circles her, his anger and disgust clear…. then slowly, almost as if against his better judgement, he reaches out and gently touches her bare neck, his fingers stroking. “I gave you my heart,” he whispers, almost disbelieving. “My soul. My love.” Then he looks across the room to where Maintenon stands at the open window, light streaming through, and the metaphor of Godly light is so very obvious. Louis’ gaze returns to the back of Montespan’s head, his expression firm. “That love has died.” Montespan is nothing but uber-determined as she whispers back, “it cannot die.” Louis slowly removes his hand from her as she gets out in a teary, breathy whisper. “I made you who you are. I made you complete and I cannot live without you. You cannot live without me.” Louis looks at her directly, replies almost gently: “That was true once. But not now.” She weeps as he adds, “without you, I am myself.” Montespan finally gets it now: “I will leave. If that is what you want. You will never hear from me again.” Louis glances to the still-silent Maintenon, then back to Montespan.
Ohhh, the look on his face. LOOK AT IT. Then he drops it: “No. You will remain here at Versailles. An anonymous noble without the king’s favour. That will be your punishment. Bear the guilt and shame forever. You will leave behind the life you once led. You will attend prayers and mass. You will neither drink, nor gamble. You will be known for your piety and your humility.” And oh, Montespan is in distress weepy tears mode (but still looking gorgeous, dammit) as she struggles out, “you condemn me to death!” But Louis is not swayed one bit. “The Marquise de Montespan,” he says, “who had the world and the king of France at her feet, no longer exists.” Montespan struggles to breathe as she cries, knows it is now truly over for her. Condemned to be a nobody, a nothing. Everything that she loathed and desperately tried not to be. Everything she spent her last waking moment trying to avoid. And finally, as she stands there in tears, Maintenon hurries over and embraces her, gives Louis a look, then leads the fallen-from-grace Montespan from the room. Maintenon then returns to a stoic Louis, puts a hand to his cheek, then whispers cryptically, “even the darkest night gives way to dawn.”
*Historical note: It was never suggested that Montespan ever tried to poison Louis, rather just put things in his wine and food to ‘increase his passion and love’ for her when she suspected her favour was falling. An ex-lover of Louis was, however, accused of wanting to poison him, a Claude de vin des Œillets, who was angry that Louis did not officially recognise her daughter as his. You can read all about her here.
Well. Nearly over now. We are in Philippe’s rooms and he is standing before a mirror, dressing in a golden sash and OMG I am expecting some more emotional shit to go down. Liselotte says, “but if you are killed, what of our son?” Philippe replies: “you will find someone else to take the role of the father.” They both glance across to the Chevalier who is standing by the window… WAT. AHAHAHAHAAAAAA NOPE. SO WRONG.
Anyways, Philippe takes Liselotte’s hand, says, “we will write to each other. Every day. I want a full report on your health and well being.” She nods with a smile. “And remember,” he says lightly, “this is Versailles. You should be happy.” They laugh softly, he kisses her cheek and then he takes a bolstering breath and walks to the Chevalier. “How do I look?” The Chevalier can barely glance at him, he’s so upset. “Passable.” Philippe is sad; “I thought you’d be pleased for me.” The Chevalier replies: “And I thought you’d be grateful to me.” Philippe’s eyes fill with tears as the Chevalier continues, moving to him: “Didn’t I save your life? So why risk it now? On a stupid battlefield?” UGH. Poor Philippe, you can see the emotion on his face and we know the Chevalier’s words are because he is hurting that he may lose Philippe again. Philippe looks at him, says calmly, “I will always love you. But there are things I must do before I can love you again.”
WAAAAAAHHHHHH!!!!!! *SOBS UNCONTROLLABLY*
The Chevalier’s gaze drops to the floor…. Philippe leans in and their foreheads touch, their eyes both gently close as the moment fills with emotion. “-as I wish,” Philippe finally whispers. “And you deserve.” They kiss, sweetly, tenderly and I am an absolute mess because this is what they need, an honest moment sharing what is in their hearts, a kiss that shows what they mean to each other. The Chevalier is shaking, they both smile through the tears, then the Chevalier finally whispers, “go.”
Philippe turns, looks at Liselotte, picks up his sword then strides to the doors, goes through them with his generals, the servants bowing. He glances back as he walks, and Liselotte and the Chevalier are framed in the doorway, Liselotte slowly taking the Chevalier’s hand in a show of solidarity and support… he turns back, gives a sigh, and then – as we all know this has been his dream all along – smiles to himself because he is FINALLY off to war.
No time to wipe those tears, people. We are here for the witch burning. We are in a courtyard and it has drawn a crowd. Burnings and hangings and other sorts of punishment were entertainment in those days: Tyburn Hill in London was like a regular day out for all, with refreshments being sold and nobles watching the hangings from the comfort of their carriages. Not only that, it was supposed to serve as a deterrent. Here we see the townsfolk gathered, and a royal box is set up to get full advantage of the spectacle. Agathe is led out, looking dirty and beaten, in chains and barefoot. The crowd yell at her, she remains silent with her head high. She is strapped to the pole. Then the camera cuts to the dungeons, to Gaston in chains as Marchal enters. Gaston smirks. He thinks he’s won his freedom…. nup. Marchal says, “take him to the pyre,” and his smug face falls. ��Back with Agathe as she is tied up, and a parade of people in dirty fancy clothing walk past her…. the nobles she supplied poison to? I think so. They are herded before the pyre, and Gaston is shoved forward. Witnesses to the burning. Punishment. Louis steps up to the royal observation platform with the queen, the rest of the royal court spread out, and there are chants of “long live the king.” He looks to the man holding the huge burning torch and the pyre is lit. Agathe is expressionless… until the smoke drifts up and her feet feel the heat.
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We see reaction shots from the crowd – Montespan, a guard holding Luxembourg’s head so he is forced to watch. Peasants crossing themselves and glancing away. And the flames rise higher around Agathe. Louis reveals no emotion as he watches, stepping aside as the Dauphin walks up behind to watch (FINALLY we get to see him again! It’s been, like, eight whole eps in between). Agathe yells,”The Sun King! It is for his greed that you toil! For his vanity! You suffer! Rise up and fight! I URGE YOU! FIND YOUR POWER!” And the camera pans to the peasants but we cannot see any discontent, no nodding or whispering or agreeing with her. She’s two Louis too early. Still she screeches as the flames get higher, “Your days are numbered. Louis, King of France. You and your spawn!” Louis puts a hand on the Dauphin’s shoulder as Agathe keeps ranting, frothing at the mouth, spouting about how their flesh will be eaten by the worms of tyranny. It is a great monologue and, knowing what we do about French royal history, very prophetic. We see Maintenon looking a little distressed, Liselotte the same, the queen showing nothing and Louis with a ‘yeah, burn, you witch.’
And so she does, wailing like a banshee as the flames finally reach her. Marchal watches expressionless, Montespan glances away. Marchal’s guard struggles with Gaston, forcing his head up to watch Agathe burn. The camera pans over the royal platform, to all the expressions of horror while Agathe screams. Louis is still and silent, his gaze direct. And then, just the tiniest twitch of his lips in a smile.
THE END!!!! *Collapses*
So…. that is it until next year, when Season 3 hits our screens. No word yet as to a Season 4…. but did we all enjoy this series? What did you love? What did you hate? What/who do you want to see more of?
For me, the biggest drawcards by far are Fabien Marchal and his dark and broody brilliance as he prowls across my screen. The dialogue, which is always fabulous. The romantic moments between Philippe and the Chevalier. Sophie’s quietly growing strength and determination. Liselotte’s everything. The clothes, the jewellery. And the stunning visuals of Versailles, Vaux-le-Vicomte and the interiors. Stay tuned for another article on the smexy bits, plus what we can expect (and what I would love to see!) in Season 3. And merci beaucoup for reading along and your comments. You guys rock xxx ❤
Versailles season 2, episode 10 – deaths, downfalls and departures So here we are. The finale of Season 2. I hope you're sitting down because there is A LOT to unpack in this ep.
#17th century#Alexander Vlahos#anna brewster#Cedric Vallet#Elisa Lasowski#Evan Williams#France#George Blagden#George Webster#Harry Hadden-Paton#Louis XIV#maddison jaizani#Philippe d&039;Orleans#Pip Torrens#Stuart Bowman#Tygh Runyan#Versailles#Versailles reviews#Versailles tv series#William of Orange
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Liselotte´s letters part 2
“pages 58 - 100
part 1
she did care quite a lot about her daughter´s future husband´s character. not only his money and position. (She married Duc de Lorraine who was kinda poor and she was supported by her parents and Louis XIV, she later became the Regent of Duchy of Lorraine and Bar). Just as her mother and father Charlotte was quite individualistic.
she often dined with the Dauphin (Louis XIV´s son? please correct me if I´m wrong about the ranks here)
Louis often invited his illegitimate children to court ceremonies (like royal weddings) along with his family.
Philippe definitely had a thing for lavish diamonds and rings and all that.
Marie-Antoinette was the great-granddaughter of Liselotte and lived in the same rooms in Versailles as her.
She liked conversations with “my” Lord Portland which displeased Philippe because according to Liselotte, anyone who took interest in her displeased Philippe (because he accused her of telling him information and she replied she could not tell him anything because it was HIM who knew all the State secrets and she knew nothing and he told her that those visits would displease King and Queen of England (she had them in high regards) but she said basically whatever, cannot help it and.... JEALOUS PHILIPPE is a biiit jealous (no indication he was her lover or anything at all, but well it is a bit cute)
She wrote in 1698 (June 17th, Saint Cloud): “In the midst of this great Court I live retired as in a desert; there are but few people whom I see frequently; I spend long days shut up in my apartment, writing and reading. If anyone comes to pay me a visit I only receive them for a moment; I talk of the weather or of any other Court gossip and then retire again. Four times a week come my letter days: Monday, (Savoy), Wednesday, (Modena), Thursday and Sunday I write long letters to my aunt in Hannover; from six to eight I drive with Monsieur and our ladies of honour; three times a week I go to Paris and every day I write to my friends there; I hunt once or twice a week. This is how my life is spent.”
she believed that joy is healthy and being healthy means being able to work and hence she hated when the theatres closed
she hated the way Duchess de Bourgogne (Marie Adélaide of Savoy) was brought up because she was spoiled, she could sing in the middle of the dinner, wake up at 5 in the morning and run out of doors, and everyone thought her to be cute and did everything she wanted (she was a daughter of Anne Marie, her stepdaughter) and she basically ate with her fingers and treated everyone (even the King) with familiarity. She would eventually be the mother of Louis XV.
she cried when her daughter married but said she had to hide her feelings because it was not fashionable to be attached to children in France (:() While they corresponded those letters were never found.
they received 20,000 crowns from the Palatine and Philippe spent it immediately on himself, she called it a misery of married life. She said that if one wishes to never laugh, one should marry in France. She also complained of Monsieur´s spendings and said she is fully dependent on Louis.
she could not visit her daughter who just lost her baby son because the men were discussing whether Duc of Lorraine (her son-in-law) should sit on which chair? Then Monsieur said that maybe they shouldn´t sit at all and Louis said no and in the end, she wasn´t allowed to visit her because of ...stools.
she complained about her son being disobedient and making her angry on purpose that when she tells him not to be friends with certain people, he is so even more. (that´s definitely from Philippe) but it is said he did come to visit her often.
when her daughter married she didn´t attend many parties, but she always managed to know all the gossip because of her son and because PHILIPPE WAS A GOSSIP. also Philippe rarely spent more than an hour with her BUT HE DID WHEN HE WAS ANGRY WITH HIS BROTHER AND MAINTENON.
Monsieur liked bells (and she did as well) but he also liked Paris (and she hated Paris) and liked gambling (and she hated it).
Louis XIV had spies in Spain during the Spanish wars for succcession. One of them being (apparently) his own niece Marie Louise. (that wasn´t written in her letters but it was a side info)
she knew that the letters coming in and going out of France were read but she didn´t care
when Monsieur died she feared she would be sent to a convent (and it was hinted to her she would) but good for her, she wasn´t. she also late feared of exile and even wrote to Maintenon ( her “new friend”) to say a couple of good words for her in front of the King.
the day Monsieur died she didn´t go to supper because she felt ill, but he told her he was going because he was hungry and then when she heard some noise she run to him and saw him ill and he recognised her and said something to her and she couldn´t make out what but could make out only “you are ill; go away” but she didn´t and stayed with him until 6am but then was taken from the room. the King consoled her and so did Maintenon and at 12 am Monsieur died.
after Monsieur´s death she became friends with Maintenon
she also had to mend things with Louis that had been shaky (probably because of the fraud with Maintenon) and she said to him: “If I did not love you I should not so have hated Madame de Maintenon when I thought she injured me with you” and they all cried and laughed and hugged.
she found the differences in Christian faiths petty and would rather that all got along
she hated doctors and told them openly that she might not follow their advice though she will listen to their opinions {she hated bleeding and when someone died, especially a child she always blamed the doctors}
when I was watching Versailles I hated all that witchcraft and thought it quite stupid to include but I must admit even Liselotte writes about noble gentlemen going to Fortune tellers and she writes so as they believe in every word they are told {Liselotte was a bit more rational with that matter}
she was so worried about her son when he went to war ooo {she is such a mama figure in my eyes, though not much has her daughter been mentioned during 1706 -1708}
she spoke plainly with her friends and family but was very courteous with nobility
when she dined with the King everyone was silent because of possible plots that could not be discussed so they just ... ate dinner :D
her son {what a jerk} didn`t allow the monks and women to hide in Lerida because he said that it was charming watching them defend their town, therefore he shall find it charming to watch defend their castle
she spoke of people dying like flies in 1709 and feeling deeply for them {because life before that was roses..? egh, at least she noticed}
when saying people should care less about looks and should be more BODY POSITIVE, I assure you they have never been so.... as even Liselotte is quite mean about everyone`s looks
awwww, she wrote letters to her little grandchildren {her daughter`s children}
she mildly criticised the King of continuing the war while his people starved
Maintenon still hated her
even King`s daughter wrote lampoons {satiric poems} about her own family
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But there was a spectacle of quite another sort which the King showed to everyone, to all his army and all this vast crowd of people from every country, and I’ll be able to depict that spectacle in forty years’ time as well as I can today, it struck me so forcibly. Madame de Maintenon was seated, facing the plain, in a litter chair with three window -panes… The King was standing to the right of her chair, and every second moment he would bend down to explain to Madame de Maintenon what was going on in the exercises. Each time, she would lower her window four or five finger-lengths… The King spoke to no one but her, other than to give out orders… Everyone was so astonished and embarrassed and pretending not to notice, but they were watching this more attentively than anything the army was doing… The King put his hat on top of Madame de Maintenon’s litter chair. When Madame de Maintenon left, the King left less than a quarter of an hour later… Everyone was saying they could hardly believe what they’d seen, and even the soldiers who had been on the plain were asking who it was that the King had kept leaning down to speak to… You can imagine the effect it made on the foreigners there. Soon they were talking about it all over Europe…
Duc de Saint-Simon recounting the “spectacle” that occurred at the Duc de Bourgogne’s birthday party (a series of military exercises were being held in his honor), taken from The Secret Wife of Louis XIV: Françoise d'Aubigné, Madame de Maintenon by Veronica Buckley
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Another day is beginning, hooray! Although waking up to the cold and chilly weather is not the best type of waking up, our plans were so huge, and we could not be restrained by any absurd rain!
The first stop of today were Versailles. Both museum and the gardens. After standing in line to reach the entrance for like an hour we finally got in and a great history-filled tour could begin.
The Palace of Versailles has been listed as a World Heritage Site for 30 years and is one of the greatest achievements in French 17th century art. Louis XIII’s old hunting pavilion was transformed and extended by his son, Louis XIV, when he installed the Court and government there in 1682. A succession of kings continued to embellish the Palace up until the French Revolution. Today the Palace contains 2300 rooms spread over 63 154 m2.
In 1789, the French Revolution forced Louis XVI to leave Versailles for Paris. The Palace would never again be a royal residence and a new role was assigned to it in the 19th century, when it became the Museum of the History of France in 1837 by order of King Louis-Philippe, who came to the throne in 1830. The rooms of the Palace were then devoted to housing new collections of paintings and sculptures representing great figures and important events that had marked the History of France. These collections continued to be expanded until the early 20th century at which time, under the influence of its most eminent curator, Pierre de Nolhac, the Palace rediscovered its historical role when the whole central part was restored to the appearance it had had as a royal residence during the Ancien Régime.
The Palace of Versailles never played the protective role of a medieval stronghold. Beginning in the Renaissance period, the term “chateau” was used to refer to the rural location of a luxurious residence, as opposed to an urban palace. It was thus common to speak of the Louvre “Palais” in the heart of Paris, and the “Château” of Versailles out in the country. Versailles was only a village at the time. It was destroyed in 1673 to make way for the new town Louis XIV wished to create. Currently the centrepiece of Versailles urban planning, the Palace now seems a far cry from the countryside residence it once was. Nevertheless, the garden end on the west side of the Estate of Versailles is still adjoined by woods and agriculture.
Visitors looking through the central window in the Hall of Mirrors will see the Grande Perspective stretching away towards the horizon from the Water Parterre. This unique east-west perspective originally dates from before the reign of Louis XIV, but it was developed and extended by the gardener André Le Nôtre, who widened the Royal Way and dug the Grand Canal.
In 1661 Louis XIV entrusted André Le Nôtre with the creation and renovation of the gardens of Versailles, which he considered just as important as the Palace. Works on the gardens were started at the same time as the work on the palace and lasted for 40 or so years. During this time André Le Nôtre collaborated with the likes of Jean-Baptiste Colbert, superintendent of buildings from 1664 to 1683, who managed the project, and Charles Le Brun, who was made first painter in January 1664 and provided the drawings for a large number of the statues and fountains. Last but not least, each project was reviewed by the King himself, who was keen to see “every detail”. Not long after, the architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart, having been made rirst architect and superintendent of buildings, built the Orangery and simplified the outlines of the park, in particular by modifying or opening up some of the groves.
Creating the gardens was a monumental task. Large amounts of soil had to be shifted to level the ground, create parterres, build the Orangery and dig out the fountains and Canal in places previously occupied solely by meadows and marshes. Trees were brought in from different regions of France. Thousands of men, sometimes even entire regiments, took part in this immense project.
To maintain the design, the garden needed to be replanted approximately once every 100 years. Louis XVI did so at the beginning of his reign, and the undertaking was next carried out during the reign of Napoleon III. Following damage caused by a series of storms in the late 20th century, including one in December 1999, which was the most devastating, the garden has been fully replanted and now boasts a fresh, youthful appearance similar to how it would have looked to Louis XIV.
Water features of all kinds are an important part of French gardens, even more so than plant designs and groves. At Versailles, they include waterfalls in some of the groves, spurts of water in the fountains, and the calm surface of the water reflecting the sky and sun in the Water Parterre or the Grand Canal.
Also, made of bronze, marble or lead, the 386 works of art in Versailles (including 221 decorating the gardens) make it the biggest open-air sculpture museum in the world. The vast space in garden at the foot of the palace and the vast wooded area of the park allowed Le Nôtre to develop the principles he had applied at Vaux-le-Vicomte on a greater scale.
The scale, height and pure lines of the Orangery, which sits just below the palace, make it one of Jules Hardouin-Mansart’s crowning achievements, demonstrating his talent as a great architect. Orange trees from Portugal, Spain and Italy, lemon trees, oleander, palm and pomegranate trees, some more than 200 years old, are all housed in the Orangery during the winter and spread out across its parterre in summer.
In an attempt to gain some brief respite from courtly etiquette, the kings of Versailles built themselves more intimate spaces close to the main palace. Adjoining the Petit Parc, the estate of Trianon is home to the Grand Trianon and Petit Trianon palaces, as well as the Queen’s Hamlet and a variety of ornamental gardens.
Construction on the estate began under Louis XIV, who had the Grand Trianon Palace built at the far end of the northern branch of the Grand Canal. The estate is perhaps most closely associated with Queen Marie-Antoinette. The wife of Louis XVI regularly sought refuge at the Petit Trianon, where she commissioned marvellous landscaped gardens centred around a hamlet of cottages built in the rustic style then in vogue. Designed for more intimate moments, this royal estate contains architectural gems and magnificent gardens whose diversity and ornamentation give it a unique charm.
The Grand Trianon is a unique architectural composition featuring a central colonnaded gallery, or “Peristyle”, opening onto the central courtyard on one side and the gardens on the other. Construction began in 1687, directed by Jules Hardouin-Mansart under the watchful eye of Louis XIV. The king used this new palace as a private residence where he could spend time with Madame de Maintenon. It was originally known as the “Marble Trianon” on account of the pink marble panels which adorned the palace’s elegant façades. The majority of the apartments have retained their original appearance, including the sumptuous Mirror Room where the king would hold council. The ornate geometric flowerbeds of the French gardens were planted with tens of thousands of flowers, a spectacle which was greatly admired by Louis XIV’s visitors.
The Petit Trianon, considered to be royal architect Ange-Jacques Gabriel’s masterpiece, is something of a manifesto for the neo-classical movement. Completed in 1768, it provided Louis XV and his new mistress the Comtesse Du Barry with the privacy which was so sorely lacking at the palace. This new royal residence was in fact an extension of the king’s passion for the botanical sciences: he was keen to have a home in the heart of the gardens to which he devoted so much of his time and which, by the time of his death, were among the most richly-stocked in Europe. With the exception of the French Garden, Louis XV’s beloved gardens were thoroughly overhauled to make way for new, landscaped spaces after his death. Marie-Antoinette, who had such trouble adapting to life in the court, received the Petit Trianon as a gift from Louis XVI in 1774 and developed a great attachment to this estate.
The Queen’s Hamlet, constructed between 1783 and 1786 under the supervision of Richard Mique, is an excellent example of the contemporary fascination with the charms of rural life. Inspired by the traditional rustic architecture of Normandy, this peculiar model village included a windmill and dairy, as well as a dining room, salon, billiard room and boudoir. Although it was reserved primarily for the education of her children, Marie-Antoinette also used the hamlet for promenades and hosting guests.
Meanwhile the Queen’s Theatre, inaugurated in 1780, is the only building to have survived fully intact and unchanged since the eighteenth century. The queen watched private performances here, but also took to the stage herself, another of her great passions.
After a few amazing hours spent there (please define one whole day for this, 6 hours were too few for us :/), we headed to the Parisian modern quarter La Défense for late lunch, to see the architecture of skyscrapers and shop a bit in a huge shopping centre called Les 4 Temps.
La Défense is the prime high-rise office district of Paris. Many of Paris’ tallest buildings can be found here. At the end of the First World War, plans were made to develop the axis from the Arc de Triomphe at the Etoile to La Défense, an area at the edge of the center of Paris. Numerous plans were submitted for the Voie Triumphale or Triumphal Way as it was known, most of them with endless rows of impressive skyscrapers in mostly Modernist style. Many of the plans which were submitted in 1930 came from renowned architects like Le Corbusier and Auguste Perret. None of these plans were realized, mainly due to the Great Depression in the 1930s.
In 1931 though, the authorities organized a new competition, but the intent was to limit the height of the buildings along the Triumphal Way. Only at the end of the long avenue, at the Défense, were towers allowed. This was recommended by the authorities as towers close to the center would obstruct the view on the Etoile.
Most of the 35 (French) entries in the competition were either classical or modernist in style, but again none of the plans were actually realized due to lack of funding. The main focus now moved from the Triumphal way to the Défense area, or La Défense. The name défense originates from the monument “La Défense de Paris”, which was erected at this site in 1883 to commemorate the war of 1870.
In 1951, the Défense site was chosen as an office center. In 1958, development of the area was started by a special agency, the Etablissement Public d’Aménagement de la Défense.
The first plan had two rows of skyscrapers of equal height. In 1964, a plan was approved to have twenty office towers of 25 stories each. Little of the development on the Défense was actually built according to this plan, as most companies started to press for taller office towers.
The result is a mix of mostly cheap towers of different heights. The tallest of them, the GAN tower, measured 179 meters.
The height of several towers, and in particular the GAN tower caused a public outcry as the “forest of towers” disturbs the view on the Arc de Triomphe as seen from the Etoile.
Partly in response to this criticism a new monument was built at the entrance of the Défense as a counterweight for the Arc de Triomphe: The Tête Défense , also known as the Grande Arche de la Défense.
The project to build the “Grande Arche” (Great Arch) was supported by the French president Mitterrand who wanted a twentieth century version of the Arc de Triomphe. The design of Danish architect Otto von Spreckelsen looks more like a cube-shaped building than a triumphal arch. The 106 meters wide building has a central archway. The sides of the cube contain offices while the rooftop has a belvedere that until 2010 was open to visitors.
It was downpouring soo much, so we weren’t really able to see anything and just had to hide in the shopping centre all the time. At least the lunch was great. After some time the rain had finally stopped and we could move to another destination – Montmartre.
Montmartre is talked about by Parisians the way New Yorkers talk about the Village: It’s not what it used to be, it’s like Disneyland; the artists can’t afford to live here anymore, too many tourists etc. There is some truth in these opinions, but there are two ways of approaching this incredibly unique village within the metropolis. The first is to follow the herd instinct and stampede your way up the famous hill, take a picture of yourself on the steps of the basilica, buy an overpriced crepe at the Place du Tertre, get conned into having your portrait sketched, and walk back down clutching newly bought key-rings, postcards, gaudy T-shirts feeling a little mystified about what all the fuss is about.
The second method is to keep a map in your pocket (just in case) and try to lose yourself in the steep and cobbled streets of one of the most historic and interesting neighborhoods in Paris. Remember that the Basilica of Sacre-Coeur (the big white church) sits on the crest of the hill, so as long as you are heading uphill there is little possibility of being lost for long. At the bottom of the hill is the Boulevard de Clichy which is lined with bars, kebab shops, and more sex shops and peep-shows than you can possibly pretend you are not looking at. If you think of a triangle, consider the base of it to be the section of Blvd. de Clichy and Blvd. de Rochechouart between the metro stations Blanche and Anvers. The tip of the triangle would be the Basilica of Sacre-Coeur. The area between these three points is roughly the area of interest.
You can begin your walk at any point along the base of the hill, or take the metro to Abbesses station and step out into the heart of Montmartre. Because all the great poets have told us the journey is more important than the destination, I recommend you start at metro Blanche (Moulin Rouge) or metro Anvers and gradually enter the “village”. This will make it feel more like a pilgrimage toward the place that nurtured most of the great artists and writers living in France this past century.
Exiting the Anvers metro station you will notice a marked change in the environment if you are used to the left bank scene. The crowd here is edgier and faster, neon signs flash, pimps lean in doorways, sex shops sell everything you had never thought of and countless nationalities mix on the crowded sidewalks. While Montmarte is gentrified and somewhat “sanitized” these days, the neighboring areas are certainly not. Barbes-Rochechouart to the east can be a little rough at night, so don’t go wandering there alone with your camera and guidebooks at night. In the daytime it’s a wonderful place to buy anything from socks to television in massive budget shops such as Tatti for household supplies, and Darty for electronics. The streets are also lined with stalls selling towels, underwear, sheets, linens, etc. for ridiculously cheap prices. Just watch your wallet – the bustling street market is a great place to have it lifted. Just across the street you will notice a beautiful building falling into decay – the Elysees Montmartre Theatre. It’s said to be the oldest can-can dance theatre in Paris, and is obviously underrated and overshadowed because of the famous Moulin Rouge at the other end of the street.
You will notice throngs of people in the little Rue de Steinkerque. The street has recently been infected by T-shirt shops and trinket peddlers, but the two Sympa stores with big red signs are an excellent place to find cheap clothing, sometimes brand names that are either irregular or just fell off the back of some truck. On this street you will also find interesting fabric stores as well as Columbia Coffee, one of the rare take-out coffee shops in Paris for those hardcore New Yorkers who need their fix on the go. I actually appreciate the concept of “to go” coffee, as do others who don’t have three hours to spare in a steamy window with a café au lait.
Back on the Rue de Steinkerque, walk until the street ends at Place St. Pierre. Facing you are the grassy and terraced gardens leading you to the basilica. The gardens were once gypsum quarries, hence the odd design. With the brightly lit merry go round churning out its nostalgic tunes and the imposing church white against the sky, it’s time to take the obligatory photos no one will look at. If you are hungry, grab a crepe or sandwich from the stand on the left, or the pleasant café with the best view of the gardens and basilica on your right.
On the close Rue de Ronsard is an interesting museum (St. Pierre) with local exhibitions, a gift shop and a nice café all set inside an old renovated warehouse. Across the street is the Marche St. Pierre, a multi level fabric store which rivals anything I have ever seen. If you are a designer, a home decorator or simply curious, you have to visit this incredible business which carries every type of fabric imaginable and holds an entire office for cutting and ordering on every floor. The beauty of it is that it exudes the feel of a shop in the 1950s and not the streamlined order of a modern department store.
Go back to the gardens facing the basilica and you will find that to the left and up the hill are the steps and the funicular which you can ride to the top. Steps can be, of course, found there too. The steps are of the classic Montmartre variety – steep and lined by pretty lampposts and deciduous trees. Despite the crowds, the view is the most spectacular in Paris. You can get even better view when you will decide to climb apx 300 more steps to the top of basilica! It costs only 3€ and in my opinion it’s definitely worth it. All around the year are there street musician who perform at the bottom of the steps, using the architecture as a kind of natural amphitheatre with an already captive audience.
The Basilica Sacre-Coeur was only built a century ago, after the French were embarrassed by a brief but successful occupation by the Germans in 1870. It wasn’t yet Hitler, but Bismarck’s Prussian army. The Basilica is based in Roman architecture and took over 40 years to build (more than it took to build the Parthenon!). From a distance, the stark white domes are powerful and imposing. During WWII, 13 bombs are said to have landed on the church, but without resulting in casualties, which lent the place special status among the local people.
Another close church is even more interesting historically. The Church of St. Pierre which is one of the oldest in Paris and even contains some original Roman columns.
The name Montmartre was originally Roman meaning “Mount of Mars” but was later changed to “Mount of Martyrs” or Montmartre. Across the street is the Place du Tertre where the legends of 20th century art used to roam. Now it’s filled with watercolors, portrait sketchers and caricaturists. Picasso, Vlamenck, Derain, Soutine, Modigliani, Van Gogh and countless others lived and worked in these narrow streets.
From the square you can wander the packed streets or sit in a café but be warned that the prices are higher and you will most likely be surrounded by tour groups and howling children. It’s much better to duck down a side street or go to a café nearer to Abbesses. If you are interested in Dali, you can visit the museum at 11 Rue Poulbot. In any case, follow the street and if you want to see one of the oldest authentic bakeries in Paris, take the steps down the Rue Norvins to where it intersects Rue des Saules. Follow this road downhill and you will begin to enter the most interesting part of historic Montmarte filled with narrow cobblestone streets and sometimes beautiful private gardens. Now you realize why this was truly considered a village once, set outside the city limits. At that time it was covered with vineyards and gypsum quarries and was a real working class neighborhood to which the artists came for cheap rent and tax free wine. Now the former studios and crumbling apartments have been converted into huge lofts or even houses with private garages, alarms and video surveillance.
On the close Rue Cortot you can visit the Montmartre Museum. The atmosphere in this old renovated manor house is impressive, along with a beautiful inner garden. Eric Satie, the composer, lived here at one time, and there is a room dedicated to him inside. Maurice Utrillo once lived here too, as did the famous Greek engraver and painter Demetrius Galanis.
Also be sure to visit the famous Bateau Lavoire at #13 Place Emile-Goudeau. Picasso’s studio was here and at times Braque, Juan Gris, Modigliani and Apollinaire all lived here. It’s without a doubt the most famous art “studio” in the world. It’s now a restaurant, but in terms of art history, it’s a much more important landmark than the better known Moulin Rouge.
And in the night we decided to watch the Eiffel Tower blinking from the one of the close squares. Another splendid and exhausting day, already looking forward for tomorrow!
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Paris DAY 3: Versailles, La Défense, Montmartre & nocturnal Eiffel Tower
Another day is beginning, hooray! Although waking up to the cold and chilly weather is not the best type of waking up, our plans were so huge, and we could not be restrained by any absurd rain!
Paris DAY 3: Versailles, La Défense, Montmartre & nocturnal Eiffel Tower Another day is beginning, hooray! Although waking up to the cold and chilly weather is not the best type of waking up, our plans were so huge, and we could not be restrained by any absurd rain!
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Hello everybody!
Another day is beginning, hooray! Although waking up to the cold and chilly weather is not the best type of waking up, our plans were so huge, and we could not be restrained by any absurd rain!
The first stop of today were Versailles. Both museum and the gardens. After standing in line to reach the entrance for like an hour we finally got in and a great history-filled tour could begin.
The Palace of Versailles has been listed as a World Heritage Site for 30 years and is one of the greatest achievements in French 17th century art. Louis XIII’s old hunting pavilion was transformed and extended by his son, Louis XIV, when he installed the Court and government there in 1682. A succession of kings continued to embellish the Palace up until the French Revolution. Today the Palace contains 2300 rooms spread over 63 154 m2.
In 1789, the French Revolution forced Louis XVI to leave Versailles for Paris. The Palace would never again be a royal residence and a new role was assigned to it in the 19th century, when it became the Museum of the History of France in 1837 by order of King Louis-Philippe, who came to the throne in 1830. The rooms of the Palace were then devoted to housing new collections of paintings and sculptures representing great figures and important events that had marked the History of France. These collections continued to be expanded until the early 20th century at which time, under the influence of its most eminent curator, Pierre de Nolhac, the Palace rediscovered its historical role when the whole central part was restored to the appearance it had had as a royal residence during the Ancien Régime.
The Palace of Versailles never played the protective role of a medieval stronghold. Beginning in the Renaissance period, the term “chateau” was used to refer to the rural location of a luxurious residence, as opposed to an urban palace. It was thus common to speak of the Louvre “Palais” in the heart of Paris, and the “Château” of Versailles out in the country. Versailles was only a village at the time. It was destroyed in 1673 to make way for the new town Louis XIV wished to create. Currently the centrepiece of Versailles urban planning, the Palace now seems a far cry from the countryside residence it once was. Nevertheless, the garden end on the west side of the Estate of Versailles is still adjoined by woods and agriculture.
Visitors looking through the central window in the Hall of Mirrors will see the Grande Perspective stretching away towards the horizon from the Water Parterre. This unique east-west perspective originally dates from before the reign of Louis XIV, but it was developed and extended by the gardener André Le Nôtre, who widened the Royal Way and dug the Grand Canal.
In 1661 Louis XIV entrusted André Le Nôtre with the creation and renovation of the gardens of Versailles, which he considered just as important as the Palace. Works on the gardens were started at the same time as the work on the palace and lasted for 40 or so years. During this time André Le Nôtre collaborated with the likes of Jean-Baptiste Colbert, superintendent of buildings from 1664 to 1683, who managed the project, and Charles Le Brun, who was made first painter in January 1664 and provided the drawings for a large number of the statues and fountains. Last but not least, each project was reviewed by the King himself, who was keen to see “every detail”. Not long after, the architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart, having been made rirst architect and superintendent of buildings, built the Orangery and simplified the outlines of the park, in particular by modifying or opening up some of the groves.
Creating the gardens was a monumental task. Large amounts of soil had to be shifted to level the ground, create parterres, build the Orangery and dig out the fountains and Canal in places previously occupied solely by meadows and marshes. Trees were brought in from different regions of France. Thousands of men, sometimes even entire regiments, took part in this immense project.
To maintain the design, the garden needed to be replanted approximately once every 100 years. Louis XVI did so at the beginning of his reign, and the undertaking was next carried out during the reign of Napoleon III. Following damage caused by a series of storms in the late 20th century, including one in December 1999, which was the most devastating, the garden has been fully replanted and now boasts a fresh, youthful appearance similar to how it would have looked to Louis XIV.
Water features of all kinds are an important part of French gardens, even more so than plant designs and groves. At Versailles, they include waterfalls in some of the groves, spurts of water in the fountains, and the calm surface of the water reflecting the sky and sun in the Water Parterre or the Grand Canal.
Also, made of bronze, marble or lead, the 386 works of art in Versailles (including 221 decorating the gardens) make it the biggest open-air sculpture museum in the world. The vast space in garden at the foot of the palace and the vast wooded area of the park allowed Le Nôtre to develop the principles he had applied at Vaux-le-Vicomte on a greater scale.
The scale, height and pure lines of the Orangery, which sits just below the palace, make it one of Jules Hardouin-Mansart’s crowning achievements, demonstrating his talent as a great architect. Orange trees from Portugal, Spain and Italy, lemon trees, oleander, palm and pomegranate trees, some more than 200 years old, are all housed in the Orangery during the winter and spread out across its parterre in summer.
In an attempt to gain some brief respite from courtly etiquette, the kings of Versailles built themselves more intimate spaces close to the main palace. Adjoining the Petit Parc, the estate of Trianon is home to the Grand Trianon and Petit Trianon palaces, as well as the Queen’s Hamlet and a variety of ornamental gardens.
Construction on the estate began under Louis XIV, who had the Grand Trianon Palace built at the far end of the northern branch of the Grand Canal. The estate is perhaps most closely associated with Queen Marie-Antoinette. The wife of Louis XVI regularly sought refuge at the Petit Trianon, where she commissioned marvellous landscaped gardens centred around a hamlet of cottages built in the rustic style then in vogue. Designed for more intimate moments, this royal estate contains architectural gems and magnificent gardens whose diversity and ornamentation give it a unique charm.
The Grand Trianon is a unique architectural composition featuring a central colonnaded gallery, or “Peristyle”, opening onto the central courtyard on one side and the gardens on the other. Construction began in 1687, directed by Jules Hardouin-Mansart under the watchful eye of Louis XIV. The king used this new palace as a private residence where he could spend time with Madame de Maintenon. It was originally known as the “Marble Trianon” on account of the pink marble panels which adorned the palace’s elegant façades. The majority of the apartments have retained their original appearance, including the sumptuous Mirror Room where the king would hold council. The ornate geometric flowerbeds of the French gardens were planted with tens of thousands of flowers, a spectacle which was greatly admired by Louis XIV’s visitors.
The Petit Trianon, considered to be royal architect Ange-Jacques Gabriel’s masterpiece, is something of a manifesto for the neo-classical movement. Completed in 1768, it provided Louis XV and his new mistress the Comtesse Du Barry with the privacy which was so sorely lacking at the palace. This new royal residence was in fact an extension of the king’s passion for the botanical sciences: he was keen to have a home in the heart of the gardens to which he devoted so much of his time and which, by the time of his death, were among the most richly-stocked in Europe. With the exception of the French Garden, Louis XV’s beloved gardens were thoroughly overhauled to make way for new, landscaped spaces after his death. Marie-Antoinette, who had such trouble adapting to life in the court, received the Petit Trianon as a gift from Louis XVI in 1774 and developed a great attachment to this estate.
The Queen’s Hamlet, constructed between 1783 and 1786 under the supervision of Richard Mique, is an excellent example of the contemporary fascination with the charms of rural life. Inspired by the traditional rustic architecture of Normandy, this peculiar model village included a windmill and dairy, as well as a dining room, salon, billiard room and boudoir. Although it was reserved primarily for the education of her children, Marie-Antoinette also used the hamlet for promenades and hosting guests.
Meanwhile the Queen’s Theatre, inaugurated in 1780, is the only building to have survived fully intact and unchanged since the eighteenth century. The queen watched private performances here, but also took to the stage herself, another of her great passions.
After a few amazing hours spent there (please define one whole day for this, 6 hours were too few for us :/), we headed to the Parisian modern quarter La Défense for late lunch, to see the architecture of skyscrapers and shop a bit in a huge shopping centre called Les 4 Temps.
La Défense is the prime high-rise office district of Paris. Many of Paris’ tallest buildings can be found here. At the end of the First World War, plans were made to develop the axis from the Arc de Triomphe at the Etoile to La Défense, an area at the edge of the center of Paris. Numerous plans were submitted for the Voie Triumphale or Triumphal Way as it was known, most of them with endless rows of impressive skyscrapers in mostly Modernist style. Many of the plans which were submitted in 1930 came from renowned architects like Le Corbusier and Auguste Perret. None of these plans were realized, mainly due to the Great Depression in the 1930s.
In 1931 though, the authorities organized a new competition, but the intent was to limit the height of the buildings along the Triumphal Way. Only at the end of the long avenue, at the Défense, were towers allowed. This was recommended by the authorities as towers close to the center would obstruct the view on the Etoile.
Most of the 35 (French) entries in the competition were either classical or modernist in style, but again none of the plans were actually realized due to lack of funding. The main focus now moved from the Triumphal way to the Défense area, or La Défense. The name défense originates from the monument “La Défense de Paris”, which was erected at this site in 1883 to commemorate the war of 1870.
In 1951, the Défense site was chosen as an office center. In 1958, development of the area was started by a special agency, the Etablissement Public d’Aménagement de la Défense.
The first plan had two rows of skyscrapers of equal height. In 1964, a plan was approved to have twenty office towers of 25 stories each. Little of the development on the Défense was actually built according to this plan, as most companies started to press for taller office towers.
The result is a mix of mostly cheap towers of different heights. The tallest of them, the GAN tower, measured 179 meters.
The height of several towers, and in particular the GAN tower caused a public outcry as the “forest of towers” disturbs the view on the Arc de Triomphe as seen from the Etoile.
Partly in response to this criticism a new monument was built at the entrance of the Défense as a counterweight for the Arc de Triomphe: The Tête Défense , also known as the Grande Arche de la Défense.
The project to build the “Grande Arche” (Great Arch) was supported by the French president Mitterrand who wanted a twentieth century version of the Arc de Triomphe. The design of Danish architect Otto von Spreckelsen looks more like a cube-shaped building than a triumphal arch. The 106 meters wide building has a central archway. The sides of the cube contain offices while the rooftop has a belvedere that until 2010 was open to visitors.
It was downpouring soo much, so we weren’t really able to see anything and just had to hide in the shopping centre all the time. At least the lunch was great. After some time the rain had finally stopped and we could move to another destination – Montmartre.
Montmartre is talked about by Parisians the way New Yorkers talk about the Village: It’s not what it used to be, it’s like Disneyland; the artists can’t afford to live here anymore, too many tourists etc. There is some truth in these opinions, but there are two ways of approaching this incredibly unique village within the metropolis. The first is to follow the herd instinct and stampede your way up the famous hill, take a picture of yourself on the steps of the basilica, buy an overpriced crepe at the Place du Tertre, get conned into having your portrait sketched, and walk back down clutching newly bought key-rings, postcards, gaudy T-shirts feeling a little mystified about what all the fuss is about.
The second method is to keep a map in your pocket (just in case) and try to lose yourself in the steep and cobbled streets of one of the most historic and interesting neighborhoods in Paris. Remember that the Basilica of Sacre-Coeur (the big white church) sits on the crest of the hill, so as long as you are heading uphill there is little possibility of being lost for long. At the bottom of the hill is the Boulevard de Clichy which is lined with bars, kebab shops, and more sex shops and peep-shows than you can possibly pretend you are not looking at. If you think of a triangle, consider the base of it to be the section of Blvd. de Clichy and Blvd. de Rochechouart between the metro stations Blanche and Anvers. The tip of the triangle would be the Basilica of Sacre-Coeur. The area between these three points is roughly the area of interest.
You can begin your walk at any point along the base of the hill, or take the metro to Abbesses station and step out into the heart of Montmartre. Because all the great poets have told us the journey is more important than the destination, I recommend you start at metro Blanche (Moulin Rouge) or metro Anvers and gradually enter the “village”. This will make it feel more like a pilgrimage toward the place that nurtured most of the great artists and writers living in France this past century.
Exiting the Anvers metro station you will notice a marked change in the environment if you are used to the left bank scene. The crowd here is edgier and faster, neon signs flash, pimps lean in doorways, sex shops sell everything you had never thought of and countless nationalities mix on the crowded sidewalks. While Montmarte is gentrified and somewhat “sanitized” these days, the neighboring areas are certainly not. Barbes-Rochechouart to the east can be a little rough at night, so don’t go wandering there alone with your camera and guidebooks at night. In the daytime it’s a wonderful place to buy anything from socks to television in massive budget shops such as Tatti for household supplies, and Darty for electronics. The streets are also lined with stalls selling towels, underwear, sheets, linens, etc. for ridiculously cheap prices. Just watch your wallet – the bustling street market is a great place to have it lifted. Just across the street you will notice a beautiful building falling into decay – the Elysees Montmartre Theatre. It’s said to be the oldest can-can dance theatre in Paris, and is obviously underrated and overshadowed because of the famous Moulin Rouge at the other end of the street.
You will notice throngs of people in the little Rue de Steinkerque. The street has recently been infected by T-shirt shops and trinket peddlers, but the two Sympa stores with big red signs are an excellent place to find cheap clothing, sometimes brand names that are either irregular or just fell off the back of some truck. On this street you will also find interesting fabric stores as well as Columbia Coffee, one of the rare take-out coffee shops in Paris for those hardcore New Yorkers who need their fix on the go. I actually appreciate the concept of “to go” coffee, as do others who don’t have three hours to spare in a steamy window with a café au lait.
Back on the Rue de Steinkerque, walk until the street ends at Place St. Pierre. Facing you are the grassy and terraced gardens leading you to the basilica. The gardens were once gypsum quarries, hence the odd design. With the brightly lit merry go round churning out its nostalgic tunes and the imposing church white against the sky, it’s time to take the obligatory photos no one will look at. If you are hungry, grab a crepe or sandwich from the stand on the left, or the pleasant café with the best view of the gardens and basilica on your right.
On the close Rue de Ronsard is an interesting museum (St. Pierre) with local exhibitions, a gift shop and a nice café all set inside an old renovated warehouse. Across the street is the Marche St. Pierre, a multi level fabric store which rivals anything I have ever seen. If you are a designer, a home decorator or simply curious, you have to visit this incredible business which carries every type of fabric imaginable and holds an entire office for cutting and ordering on every floor. The beauty of it is that it exudes the feel of a shop in the 1950s and not the streamlined order of a modern department store.
Go back to the gardens facing the basilica and you will find that to the left and up the hill are the steps and the funicular which you can ride to the top. Steps can be, of course, found there too. The steps are of the classic Montmartre variety – steep and lined by pretty lampposts and deciduous trees. Despite the crowds, the view is the most spectacular in Paris. You can get even better view when you will decide to climb apx 300 more steps to the top of basilica! It costs only 3€ and in my opinion it’s definitely worth it. All around the year are there street musician who perform at the bottom of the steps, using the architecture as a kind of natural amphitheatre with an already captive audience.
The Basilica Sacre-Coeur was only built a century ago, after the French were embarrassed by a brief but successful occupation by the Germans in 1870. It wasn’t yet Hitler, but Bismarck’s Prussian army. The Basilica is based in Roman architecture and took over 40 years to build (more than it took to build the Parthenon!). From a distance, the stark white domes are powerful and imposing. During WWII, 13 bombs are said to have landed on the church, but without resulting in casualties, which lent the place special status among the local people.
Another close church is even more interesting historically. The Church of St. Pierre which is one of the oldest in Paris and even contains some original Roman columns.
The name Montmartre was originally Roman meaning “Mount of Mars” but was later changed to “Mount of Martyrs” or Montmartre. Across the street is the Place du Tertre where the legends of 20th century art used to roam. Now it’s filled with watercolors, portrait sketchers and caricaturists. Picasso, Vlamenck, Derain, Soutine, Modigliani, Van Gogh and countless others lived and worked in these narrow streets.
From the square you can wander the packed streets or sit in a café but be warned that the prices are higher and you will most likely be surrounded by tour groups and howling children. It’s much better to duck down a side street or go to a café nearer to Abbesses. If you are interested in Dali, you can visit the museum at 11 Rue Poulbot. In any case, follow the street and if you want to see one of the oldest authentic bakeries in Paris, take the steps down the Rue Norvins to where it intersects Rue des Saules. Follow this road downhill and you will begin to enter the most interesting part of historic Montmarte filled with narrow cobblestone streets and sometimes beautiful private gardens. Now you realize why this was truly considered a village once, set outside the city limits. At that time it was covered with vineyards and gypsum quarries and was a real working class neighborhood to which the artists came for cheap rent and tax free wine. Now the former studios and crumbling apartments have been converted into huge lofts or even houses with private garages, alarms and video surveillance.
On the close Rue Cortot you can visit the Montmartre Museum. The atmosphere in this old renovated manor house is impressive, along with a beautiful inner garden. Eric Satie, the composer, lived here at one time, and there is a room dedicated to him inside. Maurice Utrillo once lived here too, as did the famous Greek engraver and painter Demetrius Galanis.
Also be sure to visit the famous Bateau Lavoire at #13 Place Emile-Goudeau. Picasso’s studio was here and at times Braque, Juan Gris, Modigliani and Apollinaire all lived here. It’s without a doubt the most famous art “studio” in the world. It’s now a restaurant, but in terms of art history, it’s a much more important landmark than the better known Moulin Rouge.
And in the night we decided to watch the Eiffel Tower blinking from the one of the close squares. Another splendid and exhausting day, already looking forward for tomorrow!
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DAY 3: Versailles, La Défense, Montmartre & nocturnal Eiffel Tower
Hello everybody! Another day is beginning, hooray! Although waking up to the cold and chilly weather is not the best type of waking up, our plans were so huge, and we could not be restrained by any absurd rain!
DAY 3: Versailles, La Défense, Montmartre & nocturnal Eiffel Tower Hello everybody! Another day is beginning, hooray! Although waking up to the cold and chilly weather is not the best type of waking up, our plans were so huge, and we could not be restrained by any absurd rain!
#autumn#day#Eiffel Tower#Europe#evening#Fall#France#gardens#guide#la defense#modern#montmartre#museum#night#Paris#quarter#rain#review#shopping#sightseeing#travel#traveling#Versailles
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