#linseed oil removal

[weeesi]

Hobby - May Prompts (8)

John slams the door.

“Careful! I’m monitoring the coagulation of linseed oil when inserted diagonally into boars’ spleens. The samples require gravitational equilibrium.”

Sherlock’s lounging cattywompus on the sofa, limbs and ringlets artfully disarranged.

John wrestles his arms out of his jacket.

Sherlock looks him over. “You’re upset.”

“That’s the weirdest thing you’ve said today.”

Sherlock’s nose crinkles. “Weirder than boars’ spleens?”

“You actually noticed I exist.”

“To be fair—”

“Do you plan it? Hm? How many miles shall I make John hike back to Baker Street after I abandon him at a crime scene, AGAIN? Let’s make it a perfect ten today, he only did seven on Tuesday. It’s like it’s your hobby.” John moves closer, then at the last second swerves towards Sherlock’s open laptop on the coffee table. Sherlock is quicker but John has the better angle and wrenches it out of his hands.

“What—!?” Sherlock scrambles off of the sofa. “Nope—boring—”

“If I find a bloody spreadsheet, your laptop’s going out the window.”

John squints at the screen, then turns the brightness all the way up.

Sherlock turns the colour of June blooms in Regent’s Park.

It’s not a spreadsheet.

“Hang on, is that my face on the Vitruvian Man?”

“Well spotted.” No use denying it.

“Right. Why?”

Because Da Vinci got it wrong, Sherlock thinks.

+

*Yes, I know in the episode Sherlock actually cuts and pastes the photo, but consider this his test run, lol.*

Thank you to @calaisreno for the fun prompt series!

Tags in replies for some folks who've requested or commented or reblogged previously (please let me know if you'd like a tag or like yours removed). Thanks for reading!

[aralezinspace]

Welcome Home

~AO3~ F!Eivor/Reader, gen

Kinktober prompt: stripping, massaging

Kinktober Masterlist

The blast of the raiding horn carried all the way from the river, up the hill to the small house you shared with Eivor. A smile touched your face- they were back.��

Rather than meet them at the docks, you bustled about preparing clean water, rags, and a small pot of linseed oil scented with wildflowers. Eivor preferred for your reunions after long months of raiding to be more private and thorough than a sloppy kiss at the docks. 

Sure enough, no more than an hour later, the door was flung open to reveal a victorious Eivor. Her arms were spread wide, and ice blue eyes immediately sought you out. “I have returned!” she crowed in that raspy voice that never failed to make you shiver. 

She crossed the room to you in three heavy strides and immediately enfolded you in her arms. You laughed when she gave a little hoist, your feet leaving the ground as she spun you in a circle before gently placing you back down. A hand cupped the back of your head and drew you into a searing kiss that stole your breath. 

When Eivor finally released your lips, she whispered, “I missed you, my love.” 

“And I missed you.” You gave her a little peck on the tip of her nose, your eyes smoldering despite the innocence of the gesture. “Come, let’s get you cleaned up.” Eivor smirked, equal parts devious and delighted. So that’s how this evening was going to go.

Eivor toed off her boots and removed her weapons before sitting on the edge of your shared bed. She stretched her arms above her head with a soft groan as you gathered your supplies and knelt behind her on the straw-stuffed mattress. Careful fingers freed her from her leather armor and set it all aside to be cleaned later. Once that was done, you slid your hands under her tunic, caressing the muscles you found there. Eivor hummed as she lifted her arms and let you remove the sweat and river soaked shirt. 

You followed the same process for her lower half. When Eivor was in nothing but her underclothes, she swung her legs onto the bed and laid down on her stomach, her head pillowed on her arms. You straddled her thighs and got to work.

You dipped a rag in the bowl of water and gently began scrubbing the grime off her skin. You could feel Eivor melt beneath you, her muscles going loose and sinking into the mattress. A low, throaty hum vibrated all the way through her torso; you could feel the tremors beneath your fingers. “Feels good love?” you asked softly as you dipped the rag back in the water and wiped her lower back. 

Eivor only gave you another hum in reply, but you could see the tiny smile pulling at her lips. Once she was clean, you took the pot of oil and poured some into your palm, warming it between your hands. Smiling to yourself, you placed your hands on Eivor’s shoulders and dug in, strong fingers massaging away the tension of weeks spent sailing and raiding. 

Eivor let out a deep groan, her brow crinkling slightly as you worked your fingers into a particularly tense spot. A wave of heat bloomed low in your gut as you pressed the heels of your hands into the meat of her shoulders. You chuckled to yourself and continued to massage the rest of her back. Every now and then, Eivor would mumble and groan directions and encouragement- “Up a bit,” or “To the left,” or “Fuck that’s it right there.” 

By the time you had reached the base of her spine, Eivor was a puddle, the oil on her back shining in the firelight. Smiling to yourself, you leaned over her and brushed your lips over the nape of her neck. The taste of the linseed oil was hardly pleasant, but it was worth it to feel Eivor shiver and shudder beneath your lips. “Glad to be home?” you breathed in her ear. Gooseflesh broke out where your words landed. 

Eivor only managed a hum in reply as you kissed all the way down her spine and back up to her shoulders. An eye cracked open, and before you knew it Eivor was using her drengr strength and speed to her advantage- she quickly turned over onto her back, grabbed your shoulders, and pushed you back onto the mattress. You let out a startled yelp, even though you knew you were going to end up on your back at some point this evening. She hovered over you, teeth bared in a feral, lust-filled grin. Wolf-kissed indeed.

You shivered as she scraped her teeth down your neck. “You always take such good care of me,” she growled in your ear, the praise sending shivers down your spine. “Now let me show you just how much I missed you.”

[ahedderick]

Saddle

I don't want the prior post to get obnoxiously long, so I'll start a new one. I began with this:

Managed to remove the girth and girth strap, also one stirrup

However, that knife is deadly! And I will need a little piece of wood to put behind the other pieces that I'm cutting off, to keep the knife from cutting the layer below. I wiped off a lot of dust and crud, then started with linseed oil.

I'm undecided about the metal ornamentation (conchos). They're too tarnished to ever look good again, but if I remove them completely the spot where they attached will look . . odd? Hmm. Buying new ones is not an option.

I always found that seat very comfortable, though; I'm looking forward to having that in front of my easel and seeing if it isn't a little friendlier for my back when I paint.

[birgittesilverbae]

smth smth mary looking at every place shannon has never touched. running her fingers along stone, over bark. at night taking out that tube of pb33 just to feel closer to her, sketches all gathered and sifted through her hands.

beatrice telling her to handle everything with care, so that it lasts. a basin of warm water because this is an archive. the oils all dried, old pallet knives, their edges still rough with paint.

mary looking at suds dripping off her fingers and feeling helpless. knowing that shannon would have painted her if she’d disappeared first. would have captured her from every angle and papered the walls with her presence, her absence. but mary sees shannon as a light pressed against the fabric of her world, leaking through and always, always out of reach.

shannon used to whisper colours sometimes, in such a whisper you had to be close to make out the sound of her voice. now, mary hears it in the quiet, in the ocean, in the wind and the rain. cadmium, sienna, cerulean, ultramarine, umber. telling her about linseed, gum arabic, pigments worked into binding agents and the way solvents and pigments are all derived from other things. pine resin and cobalt and titanium. others from organisms - bone, ivory, wood. how a painting is just pieces of the world lifted up and shaped.

so mary goes and tries to do the same. in her own way, threading shannon’s ghost in everything she touches.

thinking of shannon at the end. her bloody hand lifting that pendant high, knowing that it would serve as an anchor. shannon silently asking her to stay, to witness, to go looking for her on mountain trails, in art supply stores and galleries and in watching ava taste a milkshake for the first time.

mary puts the drawing of the cornflower into her skin as a way of saying to shannon, i’m carrying you with me.

i can never put you down

the day mary comes home with her fresh tattoo, raw and painful, an open wound, ava stops by, sits in the living room with her, interlaces their fingers. tells her, in a voice schooled away from her usual scattershot rapidity, about the dream she'd had all that time ago on jillian's couch. tells her about shannon soft and steady, still loving her family from beyond the grave. tells her about the strength it had imbued in her, the understanding of purpose. the understanding of the need to protect those she loved.

mary, unsteady with it all, trying desperately to find ways to keep hold of shannon, of the memory of her. driving ava to her physio appointments and relaxing with her on windswept beaches with her afterwards. ava, as shannon had been, always happy to soak up every bit of sun she can.

the ache in mary's chest dulls over time, with each and every sunrise and sunset ava gets to experience, with each and every moment bea gets to spend by her side. with each time lilith flickers in and out of their shared apartment, each time she carefully dusts the mantel and presents a dredged up memory to mary like a gift, like an apology, like a benediction.

lilith pulls the three of them, she and bea and mary, to far-flung destinations every so often, to sit on remote peaks or wander downtown streets of places shannon never got to visit. beatrice takes up watercolours and looks surprised, eyes shining with tears, when mary pulls shannon's supplies out for her, tubes of paint and pans and half-pans still labeled in shannon's careful print

"she'd want them to be put to use," she says, voice half caught in her throat as she shows bea how to fill pans, how to use a toothpick to remove air pockets, a q-tip to clean up the edges before slotting it into a travel palette. practiced movements, now, after spending afternoon upon afternoon relaxing and watching shannon's hands at work.

beatrice makes a soft request and mary finds herself on the rooftop at the old cat's cradle, bracketed by bea and lilith, travel palette in hand for bea's ease of use as lilith leans heavily against her other side. the light of the setting sun paints them in quinacridone gold and alizarin crimson and pyrrol orange, paints them in brushstrokes as even and careful as beatrice's beside her, and mary finds herself at peace

[foxconfessorandthewolf]

fragments: 06 (snarry)

[I'm clearing out my incomplete wips and posting fragments that might stand alone as a bit of an amnesty of old projects.]

In the dark, with the pale light of the candle in one hand, he turns the pages of his sketches, watching Potter’s form appear over and over again in endless repetition. A shoulder in dark charcoal, a thigh in graphite. Gleaming and bright, perfectly captured in light and shadow. One and other. A sketch evokes the scene for him, the hot, dusty air of his studio, windows cast wide to release the fumes of oil paint and linseed oil, the drape of cloth at Potter’s waist, the perfect arc of his spine as he stretches, the impish grin as he yawns and ducks Severus’ censure. A saint of his very own, half-clad in only loose silk. A man would have to be a saint to resist; Severus has never been accused of being a saint. 

He has been accused of other things. Witchcraft, at times. Devil worship. The devoted of Baphomet. Those he didn’t mind. Worse yet, the Prince accuses him of being a monk. Each visit, the Prince comes to review the progress of the picture, stepping with clear disdain into the spare, sparsely furnished room. His displeasure extends to every corner: the bottles and jars of curious specimens, preserved for future study, the cadavers Severus buys from the city, removing them for dissection and anatomical interest, the cheap wine Severus has to offer, watered down. He curls his lip at the wine and shakes his head at Severus’ appearance, wearing the same threadbare black doublet and cloak, same black tights, all poorly and dearly mended over and over and over again. The high-necked collar of Severus’ shirt is sorely out of fashion; the Prince clucks. “Do you expect to be a monk, Severus?” 

The body has a price. Everything has its price, everything charges admission. The price of his body is want. He curses himself and the hard furious thing between his thighs. 

Begin here, with the sketch, with the underpainting. The saint, with all of Potter’s lithe, loose grace, is posed bound, his wrist tied to the trunk of a tree, his stomach sucked in and convex, as if caught on the inhale. His eyes, the bright green of chlorophyll, turned upward to Heaven as if in both supplication and reproach. Severus spreads the paint, building layers of smooth, pale skin, bared to archers and Heaven alike. Two arrows pierce him, penetrate him, wounding the perfect spread of flesh, taking the first bite of the feast. 

To paint, Severus will prime and stretch a coarse linen canvas, then prepare the surface with a smoothly ground gesso made of gypsum and animal skins. This color, this brilliant color. This is the only color he allows himself. He applies the paint in careful, thin layers, building up depth and texture piece by bright piece. For the saint’s draped loincloth, he paints a layer of deep, brilliant red to enhance the future ultramarine hue. Blue, he thinks, is the most appropriate shade. Blue, the color of the Virgin’s cloak and tears alike. 

Take all that wretched want within you, Severus, and make something beautiful out of it.

[granulesofsand]

Finally back at the dorms, the heat was cranked because it’s in the negatives here.

Our mother was digging through our bags, found a bottle she thought was part of a chemistry set. Her front people don’t know about that, it was something we had for homebrew drugs.

One of our subsystems has dangerous progs with the beakers, but the bottle only had linseed oil in it. The actual beakers were in the Christmas bag to her left. Not sure what we’ll do with them, but it’s better they don’t know where those things are.

We have removed everything sentimental and necessary from their house, which they didn’t comment on. Even the prom dress, so we can sleep in hotel halls if we have to leave earlier than expected.

They tried to keep us there for the semester, but we asked for a week to decide and pack up if we wanted to go back. It’s so hard not to, but we won’t. It isn’t safe.

The deep slash on our side is gone. That probably means missing time, and the calendar agrees. We’re going to have to reforge our communication and undo some programming, but it was okay. We are neither dead nor dismembered.

We’re looking for work again, and I don’t understand why we are unwanted. They don’t even see us before turning us away.

The weather makes our joints worse, but it’s better in the dorm than camping outside. We are debating when to disappear, and we have written our account information in preparation.

We have three months before the next huge date, and will be relatively available until then. Wish us luck.

[piano-virucide]

Dushkin recorder musings

Despite my name and majority of my posts on Tumblr alluding to piano, I do also play the recorder.

Originally, I was playing on a cheap soprano recorder made of wax-impregnated maple that utilized German fingering (a bad "habit" from my school days that I put up with for some time). However, I did promise myself that I would switch over to Baroque/English fingering if I stumbled across a reasonable vintage alto recorder at an affordable price. And last weekend that promise came to fruition at an estate sale. Behold, my new alto!

It's a Dushkin, purchased for quite a steal ($20 USD!). No information was provided about its original owner, but whoever previously owned it seems to have been a woodwind enthusiast (the sale included various woodwinds) and likely played the Dushkin alto a lot (the thumbhole in the back looks fairly worn and could benefit from a bushing).

About Dushkin recorders:

There seems to be very limited information about recorder maker David Dushkin. The Powerhouse Collection in Australia has a Dushkin soprano recorder in its collection and helpful anecdotes on Dushkin's work along with links to its sources - David Dushkin, it appears, was the first recorder maker in the USA. Beyond that, searching up Dushkin recorders is more likely to show a variety of online sale listings, though one listing on Etsy was very useful as it provided images of the original fingering chart and instructions for use.

A look at the instructions say to oil the recorder with olive oil (a non-drying oil) or linseed oil (a drying oil) once a month or so. I used neither when oiling the instrument after cleaning (opted for a seed-based oil instead, so non-drying oil). The fire hazards of linseed cannot be emphasized enough (spontaneous combustion!); I think if I had to go for a drying oil, I'd opt for walnut oil because the recorder's wood structure is, well, walnut!

I think anyone familiar with wooden recorders will agree that walnut is a very unusual choice for recorder construction. An educated guess of mine is that Dushkin opted for walnut due to accessibility of this particular hard wood in North America (some Native American flutes are made of the same material).

Also unusual was Dushkin's mouthpiece design, which supposedly could be dissembled to some degree to remove the block.

The instructions on the Etsy listing indicate the mouthpiece can be pulled off when cleaning. During the cleaning process I was able to wiggle the outer wood sleeve by about a millimeter before it would not budge anymore - caution made push it back into place. I don't think it would be worth the risk of trying to figure out how the mouthpiece is supposed to be removed, and I'll settle for dripping alcohol into the windway if/when necessary.

Overall, it seems to be a well-made collector's item instrument that is sought-after for its historical value.

How it plays:

Brian Blauch's blog (online moniker reedplayerncnc) gives a brief firsthand description on its playability - "The alto has a beautiful tone, but it's super quiet. And you need to blow extremely hard." My experience was not quite the same as Blauch's - I needed to blow more softly!

Though, for full disclosure, I have a tendency to overblow so I could be biased. My particular Dushkin alto seems to be fairly forgiving at the upper registers for both overblowing and underblowing, but the lowest note requires significantly slow air flow, so much so that I have to drop my jaw when playing he lowest note, otherwise the note is at risk of squeaking.

An unusual one-time observance was that I somehow managed to get lowest note, 'F', to emit a wolf tone despite the bore being conical, but I've only been able to recreate this once during my very first play during the break-in period, and I have not gotten a wolf tone since then, just squeaks from bad fingering or overblowing.

An eBay listing mentions "the sound is a bit airy and responsiveness is on the slow side", which is more closer to what I experienced. When comparing the head of my alto to Blauch's photo's and the eBay photo, I noticed my alto's head more closely resembles the eBay listing, and that the head of Blauch's alto is different around the base of the mouthpiece (slightly more fancy) - so therefore Blauch and I have different models. My suspicion is that the models might also have some variation in bore size, maybe mine might be an older model given how less fancy it appears (and the poor placement of the stamp!).

Sadly, this is where my research into Dushkin recorder models comes to a dead end. Dushkin is mentioned in a few old articles published by the American Recorder Society, and one PowerPoint presentation in particular shows a few more of his recorders, but no documentation online exists regarding how Dushkin's recorder models changed over time.

Perhaps when I have the recorder fully played in and have sufficiently practiced enough, I'll do a reblog of this post with the sound of my Dushkin alto.

In the meantime, if you wish to follow in my footsteps down the Dushkin research rabbit hole, my sources are below.

Sources:

Powerhouse Collection listing: https://collection.powerhouse.com.au/object/407869

Etsy listing (with images of instructions below) https://www.etsy.com/listing/1538597243/vintage-dushkin-tenor-recorder-1950s-era?show_sold_out_detail=1&ref=nla_listing_details

Brian Blauch's blog post on Dushkin recorders: https://reedplayer.info/2021/12/29/dushkin-recorders/

eBay listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/266504730326

American Recorder Society PowerPoint presentation containing images of some Dushkin recorder models. https://www.google.com/url?client=internal-element-cse&cx=011443274990293341649:ouyrdo9fbeu&q=https://americanrecorder.org/docs/von_Huene_ARS_FIN.pptx&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwj19bOz64aEAxUwD1kFHTsIA3AQFnoECAUQAQ&usg=AOvVaw21O3FmjQIOBp2lcz2bmuiR

[toolzee]

How to Keep Wooden Handle Garden Tool Clean?

Gardening, a hobby cherished by many, not only requires dedication and love for plants but also demands proper care of the tools that help make a garden thrive. A crucial aspect of this care involves understanding "How to keep wooden handle garden tool clean." This comprehensive guide will walk you through the essential steps in the wooden handle garden tool cleaning process, ensuring your tools remain in top-notch condition for years of gardening bliss.

Understanding the Need for Cleanliness

First things first, why is it so important to keep your wooden handle garden tools clean? Well, dirt, sap, and moisture can damage the wood, leading to a shorter lifespan for your tools. Regular cleaning not only prolongs their life but also ensures they are safe and effective for use.

Step-by-Step Cleaning Guide

1. Start with Basic Cleaning

After each use, it's vital to remove any soil or debris from the wooden handle. Use a stiff brush to scrub off dry dirt. For sticky substances like sap, a damp cloth can be more effective.

2. Dealing with Tough Stains

Sometimes, you might encounter stubborn stains. In such cases, a mild soap solution can be used. However, be sure to dry the handle thoroughly afterward to prevent any water damage.

Sanding and Smoothening

1. Smoothen the Surface

Regular use can lead to the development of rough patches or splinters on wooden handles. To address this, use fine-grit sandpaper to gently sand the surface. This step is crucial for maintaining a comfortable and safe grip.

2. Avoiding Over-Sanding

It's important not to overdo the sanding. Excessive sanding can weaken the handle and reduce its durability.

Oiling and Conditioning

1. The Role of Oiling

One of the key aspects of the wooden handle garden tool cleaning process is oiling. Oiling the wood with linseed oil or a similar wood preservative nourishes and protects it from moisture and decay.

2. Frequency of Oiling

It’s recommended to oil the handles at least once or twice a year, depending on the frequency of use and exposure to elements.

Storing Your Tools Properly

1. Choose a Dry Place

Moisture is the biggest enemy of wooden handles. Store your tools in a dry, well-ventilated place to prevent rot and mold growth.

2. Hanging the Tools

Hanging your tools vertically is a great way to keep them off damp floors and prevent any warping or bending of the handles.

Addressing Wear and Tear

1. Checking for Damage

Regularly inspect your tools for any signs of wear or damage. Cracks or splinters can be dangerous and should be addressed immediately.

2. Replacing Handles When Necessary

If a handle is beyond repair, don't hesitate to replace it. A sturdy, well-fitted handle is essential for safe and effective gardening.

Conclusion

"How to keep wooden handle garden tool clean" is not just about the act of cleaning; it's about preserving and respecting the tools that help you create and maintain your garden. By following these steps, you ensure that your wooden handle garden tools are always ready for action.

For more in-depth guidance, do check out How to Care for Wooden Handled Garden Tools?, which further elaborates on caring for these essential gardening companions.

Remember, a well-cared-for garden tool is a gardener's best ally. So, keep them clean, and your garden will thank you! Happy gardening!

[k00288342]

Mokulito printing

This week we tried Mokulito printing. This is a lithography process. To do this we used a smooth piece of cherry wood plywood and sanded it with fine sandpaper. This removed any fingerprints. We then took any greasy material and used it to draw on our image. This could be anything from makeup to acrylic to Sharpie as long as it has a strong grease content. I chose oil pastels. Then we coated our boards in gum Arabic and let to dry over night. The gum soaks into the wood to reject oil. The areas with grease will not absorb the gum. We then cleaned the gum off with water and continuously kept the board wet so it would not become sticky. We used soft rollers and mixed our ink with linseed oil to make it runny. We coated the boards, continuously wetting them with a sponge as we did so and then printed using the press. The result was the ink remained on the greasy parts only. On my last print I forgot to wet my board before I inked it however I was able to remove majority of the unwanted ink and the result was surprisingly pleasant as it created a shaded background. As my theme is on the impact we leave on a space, I did the inside front passenger seat area of my car as my print image. Showing the imprint I leave on it as my space.

#print #mokulito

[cricktor-321899]

How to Care for Your Cricket Bat: Maintenance Tips for Long-lasting Performance

A bat is an investment for a cricket fan, not merely a piece of gear. For SS Ton cricket bats and other high-end brands, adequate maintenance is necessary to guarantee optimum performance and longevity. This is a brief lesson on how to take care of your bat and maximize its performance, particularly if you're looking for the best cricket accessories in Palakkad.

1. Knocking-In Your Bat

For any new bat, knocking-in is essential because it fortifies the bat's face and edges, preventing cracks from ball impact. Over the course of several days, carefully tap the bat's face, edges, and toe with a hardwood mallet for six to eight hours. Gradually increase the intensity while concentrating on high-impact regions. Even though some bats are already knocked, it's advisable to knock them in for a few hours to increase their durability.

2. Oiling for Protection

Applying raw linseed oil to the willow, particularly in English willow bats, keeps it from drying out and breaking. Lightly coat the face, sides, and toes with oil, letting it absorb for a full day before reapplying. In arid conditions or with heavy use, this should be done two to three times at first, and later more frequently.

3. Store Properly

A bat's resilience is weakened by extremes in temperature and moisture. Keep your bat out of direct sunlight and moist places and in a cool, dry place. Instead of putting your bat in a kit bag after usage, let it air dry. Dust and scratches can be avoided even more by wearing a protective bat sleeve.

4. Inspect for Damage Regularly

Regular inspections for dents or cracks might stop minor problems from growing into bigger ones. Use light knocking to remove small dents, and for larger cracks, think about hiring a professional repairman. To improve handling and control, worn grips must also be replaced.

5. Use Protective Add-ons

Toe guards and bat tape are reasonably priced solutions to make your bat more durable. To lessen the possibility of damage, apply protective tape over the borders and toe. Toe guards provide protection from water exposure, particularly when playing in moist environments.

6. Avoid Hard Surfaces and Use Older Balls

Practice with softer balls when using a new bat for the first time to ease it into regular play. Steer clear of harsh surfaces like concrete since they can erode the bat's toe and edges. These safeguards assist extend the life of premium bats, such as SS Ton cricket bats. 

7. Alternate Between Bats

Rotating between two bats lessens the wear and tear on any one bat, especially if you play frequently. Use one bat for practice and save your best for official matches. This strategy is especially advantageous for cricket players who own many high-quality bats.

Conclusion

Maintaining your bat properly can prolong its lifespan and improve its performance. These easy procedures, which include oiling and knocking in as well as storage and protective gear, guarantee that your cricket bat remains match-ready. For players in Palakkad, Cricktor provides a large selection of high-quality cricket bats and accessories. Your cricket bat will last for many years and provide high-quality performance if you take proper care of it.

[creativeenquiryemmamilligan]

Paint Making

To begin this process I used a pestle and mortar to grind down the dried lavender. I then mixed it with some hot water to extract the pigment. It was then poured through a coffee filter paper to remove all of the textured materials. Then mixed with alum and washing soda which was again poured through a coffee filter paper and the pigment sticks to the paper and the liquid drains through the paper. I’ve left the jars like this and I’m hoping when I go in next it will have dried. If this process has worked then I’m hoping to remove the dried pigment add linseed oil to it and use a paint muller to create the consistency I’m looking for.

[pinetarworlds]

Pine Tar Wood Finish: A DIY Holiday Gift & Home Accent

As the holiday season approaches, many of us turn our attention to creating a warm and inviting atmosphere in our homes. Rustic touches, natural materials, and handcrafted gifts are all popular trends that resonate with the festive spirit. One versatile and beautiful way to achieve this aesthetic is by using a pine tar wood finish.

Pine tar, a natural byproduct of the wood distillation process, has been used for centuries to protect and beautify wood surfaces. At Pine Tar World, we offer a wide range of pine tar-based products designed to enhance the durability and appearance of your wooden creations. Whether you’re a seasoned woodworker or a DIY enthusiast, incorporating a pine tar wood finish into your holiday projects can create stunning gifts and home accents.

In this blog post, we’ll explore the benefits and beauty of a pine tar wood finish, provide a step-by-step guide on how to apply it, and share some creative ideas for incorporating this timeless finish into your holiday décor.

The Benefits of Pine Tar Wood Finish: Beyond Aesthetics Pine tar wood finish offers numerous benefits beyond its rustic charm: Natural Protection: Pine tar creates a water-resistant barrier, protecting wood from moisture damage, rot, and insect infestation.

Durability: The finish penetrates deep into the wood fibers, enhancing its strength and longevity.

Easy Application: Applying a pine tar wood finish is a simple DIY project, even for beginners.

Eco-Friendly: Pine tar is a natural and renewable resource, making it a sustainable choice for eco-conscious individuals.

Unique Patina: Over time, the pine tar finish develops a beautiful patina, adding character and depth to your woodworking projects.

DIY Pine Tar Wood Finish Application: Step-by-Step Materials: Pine tar wood treatment (available at Pine Tar World) Linseed oil or turpentine (for thinning, if desired) Paintbrush or rag Sandpaper (for surface preparation) Protective gloves and eyewear Steps: Surface Preparation: Sand the wood surface smooth and remove any dust or debris. Thinning (Optional): If desired, thin the pine tar with linseed oil or turpentine to achieve a desired consistency. Application: Apply the pine tar evenly to the wood surface using a paintbrush or rag. Work in the direction of the wood grain. Drying Time: Allow the first coat to dry completely, typically 24-48 hours, before applying additional coats. Finishing Touches: Once the final coat is dry, buff the surface with a clean cloth for a smooth and lustrous finish. Holiday DIY Ideas with Pine Tar Wood Finish Rustic Ornaments: Create unique and charming ornaments by applying pine tar to wooden shapes, adding twine or ribbon for hanging.

Candle Holders: Transform plain wooden blocks or slices into rustic candle holders, perfect for creating a warm and inviting holiday ambiance.

Serving Trays & Coasters: Protect and beautify wooden serving trays and coasters with a pine tar finish, adding a touch of natural elegance to your holiday gatherings.

Gift Boxes & Tags: Add a personalized touch to your holiday gifts by crafting wooden boxes and tags with a pine tar finish.

Outdoor Décor: Enhance the beauty and longevity of outdoor wooden elements, such as bird feeders, planter boxes, and trellises, with a protective pine tar coating.

Let The Pine Tar Magic Unfold A pine tar wood finish is a versatile and beautiful way to elevate your holiday DIY projects and home decor. Its natural protective qualities, ease of application, and timeless appeal make it a favorite among wood enthusiasts and DIYers.

This holiday season, embrace the warmth and charm of natural materials and handcrafted gifts by incorporating a wood finish into your creations. Visit Pine Tar World for a wide selection of pine tar products and inspiration for your next project.

Remember, the beauty of DIY lies not only in the finished product but also in the joy of the creative process. So, gather your materials and unleash your imagination!

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a few weeks ago i made a walking stick / goose herder's staff

i had set aside a couple mostly straight gray pine branches during some tree trimming; once they'd dried a bit - i swear gray pine is like 25% sap when it's green lol - i used a sharp knife to remove all of the outer bark and most of the inner bark. sanded it a bit and then linseed oiled

the top is actually about twice the diameter as the bottom, but perspective makes it looks pretty much the same the entire way

a staff is very useful when herding creatures like chickens, ducks and geese. if you're right behind them without a staff, they basically walk or run before you in a zig-zag because they'll turn left so they can see you, whereupon you'll turn left yourself and raise your left hand to turn them, and then they'll turn right, etc... with a staff you can herd them in a mostly straight line by holding it out to your side; i hold up my hand on the other side so they can see something to either side of themselves without turning much and so they can just go straight - away from both staff and hand

when herding nervous creatures like chickens it's very important to go slowly. if you push them too fast they'll tip into panic - which is an infectious state for them - and their panic is designed to be disorienting for a predator as the entire flock runs fast and in every direction at once and rapidly changing directions. forget getting them in a coop like that! so no, go slow, keep them calm and they'll go right through the door.

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Wood Polishing in Dubai: Enhance Your Furniture's Beauty and Longevity

Wood furniture adds warmth and character to any space, but over time, it can lose its luster due to wear and tear. Wood polishing is a vital process that not only revitalizes the appearance of your furniture but also protects it from damage. In this SEO-optimized article, we’ll explore the benefits of wood polishing, common questions, and tips for maintaining your wooden pieces in Dubai’s unique climate.

Why Choose Wood Polishing?

Enhances Aesthetic Appeal Polishing brings out the natural beauty of the wood, highlighting its grain and color. A well-polished piece of furniture can serve as a stunning focal point in your home, elevating the overall decor.

Protection Against Damage Wood Polishing Dubai creates a protective layer that guards against scratches, stains, and moisture. In a place like Dubai, where humidity can fluctuate, this protection is crucial for maintaining the integrity of your furniture.

Increases Longevity Regular polishing can extend the life of your wooden furniture. By preventing damage and wear, you can enjoy your pieces for many years without the need for costly replacements.

Environmentally Friendly Many wood polishing products are eco-friendly, allowing you to care for your furniture while minimizing your environmental impact. Look for natural oils and waxes that nourish the wood without harmful chemicals.

Common Types of Wood Finishes

Lacquer This high-gloss finish provides a hard, durable surface. It’s resistant to scratches and moisture, making it an excellent choice for furniture that sees heavy use.

Varnish Varnish offers a protective layer while allowing the natural beauty of the wood to shine through. It’s suitable for various wood types and can enhance both interior and exterior furniture.

Oil Finishes Natural oils, like linseed or tung oil, penetrate the wood to nourish and protect it. They provide a warm, matte finish that enhances the wood’s grain.

Wax Wax finishes are easy to apply and reapply, providing a low-maintenance option for furniture. They create a soft sheen and offer protection against dirt and moisture.

Frequently Asked Questions About Wood Polishing

1. How often should I polish my wood furniture?

It’s recommended to polish your furniture every 6 to 12 months, depending on usage and exposure to elements. High-traffic pieces may require more frequent polishing.

2. Can I polish my furniture myself?

Yes! DIY wood polishing can be a rewarding task. Make sure to use the appropriate products and follow manufacturer instructions for the best results.

3. What products are best for wood polishing?

Look for high-quality, eco-friendly wood polishes that suit your furniture type. Natural oils and waxes are often recommended for their nourishing properties.

4. How can I remove old polish before applying a new one?

Use a gentle furniture stripper or a mixture of vinegar and water to remove old polish. Always test a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure compatibility.

5. Is wood polishing necessary?

While not mandatory, polishing enhances the appearance and longevity of your furniture. It helps protect against damage and maintains the wood’s natural beauty.

Why Invest in Wood Polishing in Dubai?

Investing in wood polishing not only enhances the aesthetic appeal of your furniture but also safeguards your investment in the unique climate of Dubai. With fluctuating temperatures and humidity levels, professional polishing can ensure that your wooden pieces remain beautiful and functional for years to come.

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HOW TO CARE FOR A KNIFE HANDLE

Choosing and purchasing high-quality, sharp knives is an important task, but it's equally crucial to care for them properly so that the blades maintain their appearance and high performance for a long time. Chefs and home cooks often pay a lot of attention to the blades, ensuring they stay sharp and smooth. However, knife handles frequently get overlooked, which is a mistake. Cracks in the handle can harbor bacteria, and wood can dry out and deform over time. Let’s talk about how to properly oil a knife handle and why it’s important.

WHY AND HOW TO CARE FOR THE HANDLE

Modern handles made from polymers, rubber, composites, and plastic typically don’t require special care. The question of how to treat a knife handle arises mainly with wooden ones. It’s important to distinguish between untreated wood and stabilized wood. The former is porous and protected only by a layer of lacquer, which can degrade over time, leaving the handle vulnerable.

Knife handles made from stabilized wood are infused with protective compounds during manufacturing, making them more resistant to moisture and less prone to deformation. However, whether your knife has a stabilized or untreated wooden handle, you’ll eventually need to treat it with oil to maintain its condition. Linseed oil is considered the best option, as it absorbs well into the wood and fills the pores. Other options include olive oil, sunflower oil, mustard oil, and corn oil.

BENEFITS OF TREATING A KNIFE HANDLE:

Prevents decay and bacterial growth.

Enhances water resistance and protects against mold and mildew.

Restores the wood’s appearance, giving it a beautiful shine without making it too slippery.

METHODS TO OIL A KNIFE HANDLE

If the knife’s protective coating is still intact, there’s no need to treat it immediately. However, as the handle begins to wear, you should remove the old finish and prepare it for oiling. Here are some common methods:

RUBBING OIL INTO THE HANDLE

Depending on how often you use the knife and the type of wood, you may need to oil the handle every 1-2 months, or less frequently. Here’s how to do it:

Heat the Handle: Warm the handle by placing the knife on a hot radiator or heating it with a hairdryer to about 60-70 degrees Celsius.

Apply the Oil: Use a brush to apply a generous amount of oil (repeat the application several times) or leave the handle submerged in oil for 3-4 hours.

Rub It In: Use a soft cloth or sponge to vigorously rub the oil into the wood. The longer and more intensely you do this, the better.

Let It Dry: Leave the knife for a day to allow the oil to fully absorb.

OIL SOAKING METHOD

This method dates back to ancient times when woodworkers discovered that soaking logs in oil made the wood stronger and more durable. This technique involves soaking the knife handle in oil for several hours, which allows the oil to penetrate deeply into the wood, providing long-lasting protection.

Sand the Handle: Thoroughly sand the handle to remove any old finish.

Seal the Blade: Wrap the blade in plastic or tape to prevent oil from reaching it.

Heat the Oil: Pour oil into a heatproof container and place it in a water bath. Heat the oil without bringing it to a boil, then submerge the handle.

Soak for 6 Hours: Let the handle soak for about 6 hours, then leave it in the oil to cool down completely.

Dry the Handle: Remove the knife from the oil and let it air dry for 2-3 weeks.

HOW TO MAINTAIN THE HANDLE

To extend the lifespan of your knife and reduce the need for frequent oiling, it’s essential to follow these care tips:

Avoid Dishwasher Use: Harsh detergents and high temperatures can damage wooden handles, causing them to crack and deform.

Don’t Soak in Water: Prolonged exposure to water can damage the handle. Clean it with a dry cloth before washing.

Store Properly: Keep knives in a dark, dry place away from direct sunlight, which can dry out the wood.

Oil Regularly: Even if you don’t use your knife often, regular oiling is necessary to maintain the handle’s condition.

Wooden handles require careful maintenance, but the effort is worth it. No synthetic material can match the beauty, warmth, and natural feel of wood.

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