#kneelo board

[sohannabarberaesque]

In Peter Potamus' case, he prefers paddling out between the Magic Balloon, at anchor just off the traditional three-mile line, and such part of Polynesia Uncharted he may be visiting at the moment in a traditional-style Polynesian koa wood surfboard repurposed for kneeboarding ends.

[leglesstv]

Vanity of vanities, all is vanity.

What profit hath a man of all his labour which he taketh under the sun?

One generation passeth away, and another generation cometh, but the earth abideth forever.”

Australia, a massive island sitting almost at the bottom of the world, separates three oceans with a coastline that ranges from the idyllic to the primeval. Much of it seems utterly indifferent to humanity, but here we are, draped around the edges like so much flotsam, scurrying like ants above the tideline, building towns and cities, clawing up to the sky, straining to leave something behind that will show we were here. We cover the ground with asphalt and concrete and steel, but the land we cover was here long before us and will be here long after we have passed into dust. Struggle and strive as we may, there will always be unfenced places in this land bearing wordless witness: All is vanity.

Those old testament prophets and preachers knew a thing or two after all their sojourns in the deserts and mountains. The first Europeans to arrive here came obsessed with notions of conquest. Their aim was to wrest a new world from the tractless bush, to tame the raw elements and gain mastery over the wilderness More than two centuries later, we may have hacked down a fair chunk of the bush, but the elements are as raw as ever and we’re still clinging to the coastal fringe like so much stormwrack, waiting for the next turn of the tide or change in the weather to wash us back into the sea from whence we came. One generation passeth away, and another generation cometh.

But what a coastline we cling to, with what an abundance of spectacularly humbling places to remind us of our absolute insignificance. Chayne was lucky enough to visit one of those places recently for a video shoot with Zion Wetsuits. We can’t tell you where it is – suffice to say it’s a place that’s been on Chayne’s wishlist for a long time. Getting there required a finely co-ordinated mission involving 4WDs, airplanes, a hefty dose of local knowledge and the favourable alignment of several planetary bodies. Logistics aside, to describe the place as challenging is understatement on a grand scale. Access to and from the wave involves scrambling down a cliff-face goat-track, then a fiendishly difficult keyhole water entry and exit that can’t be mistimed. Mistakes on take-off are punished by washing straight into the cliff. Water temperatures are seriously cold. Of course it’s smack dab in the middle of great white territory. Chayne’s visit was bookended by close encounters for the video crew both the day before he arrived and the day after he left.

The two other surfers on the trip were footboarders Sean Mawson and Ollie Henry. The Zion crew timed the strike to perfection, arriving on time to greet a beautifully groomed swell. The wave starts from deep water as a small, thick wedge and then grows as it barrels down the rockshelf. Chayne took his share of beatings and had his share of nervous interludes but reckons the wave well worth it. “It feels very sharky, but when the waves are pumping you don’t really think about that, it’s just such a perfect barrel. And a really beautiful place. Just the colour of the water, the desert and the sea – it’s the most beautiful spot I’ve ever surfed.” Surfers everywhere often sit between waves imagining what the place they’re at might have been like before humans came along and changed it. At this place you don’t have to wonder, but it’s quite a levelling exercise to try calculating how many perfect barrels might have zipped off along that shelf before anyone interested in riding them happened along. How many thousands of years of perfectly groomed swells arriving to be witnessed by birds and big fish and the occasional land-based passer-by? The earth abideth forever.

In case you’re interested, the red board in these shots is a 5’7” x 22 ½” rounded pin thruster, Chayne’s go-to shape, and perhaps a case of less is more. The video is as yet unreleased, but it should surface soon on the Zion website,. Oh, and just for the record, Zion make bloody good wetsuits at a place they call The Stoke Factory, and they offer a prodigious discount to kneeloes, just because.

 rh 06 2019

Legless.tv

[leglesstv]

Southern Brothers

South African Kneeboard surfers (better known as kneelos) travelled from around the country for a gathering of the clan over Workers’ Day weekend at Elandsbaai on the Cape West Coast.

And what a weekend that was. Based at the Witmosselpot - a surfer bar/ chilled restaurant/ backpackers/ surf shop and the centre of Eland’s surfing social life - the kneelos travelled and surfed together at some of the incredible kelpy, cold water surf spots scattered around this wave mecca.

The age difference between the youngest and oldest kneelos searching for waves and a laugh was 50 years, and they were bonded by their love of a hollow wave and for many, over 30 years of friendships. Some remembering their youth while the younger ones learned from the masters.

Some members of this clan have travelled together to ride waves in the USA, Australia, Portugal, Indonesia and Madagascar. This time, they were fortunate to have a surf photographer, Sean Thompson, to record their skills, camaraderie and wipe-outs.

Gigs Celliers, the international star of the group, stood up at an informal function to welcome everyone and gave a brief history of the sport and its influence on the ‘other’ (stand up) version of surfing.

As part of the razzmatazz, Gigs invited two elders of the sport, Paddy Laroque and Lawrence Atkinson to join him up front. Then he unveiled two historic boards from the early 1980s. Somewhere and somehow, he’d spirited these iconic boards out of the mists of history.

Gigs told Spike of Wavescape  a little more about the boards whilst on his way to Brazil to commentate for the WSL at the Oi Rio Pro: “The old boards I handed out were circa ‘83 so classic thruster with a bit of Ozzie slab type of width. Lots of vee. There was no real knowledge in those days about concaves. They are 5'6” or 5'7". Channels and quads were also in the mix. Found them years later in the 90s at the second hand stores. Lots of these have probably been snapped up cos they good these days for teaching second and third generation kids.“

"I basically just stitched together a little history lesson cos I got lots of 60s longboards and cut downs from the era in the ceiling of my girlfriend’s restaurant up in Elands. Sorry boys, she is taken.”

“I spoke about the Georg Greenough influence of kneeboards and their short board influence on the then longboard status. The South AFrican Kneelos were amped but stuck inside the apartheid bubble with very or little knowledge of the Ozzie leaders. But there was a strong rivalry between Natal and WP, and some from the Border region. We produced world champ material completely excluded from the world at the time.”

 Paddy muttered to himself, “Gobsmacked! Absolutely gobsmacked. How did Gigs find these boards?”

Lawrence said afterwards, “I just had a silly smile on my face and everyone else in the room disappeared. I walked in a daze over to one of my favourite and most memorable boards ever. What was it doing here?”

These historical boards now are on display, with many other iconic surfboards, in the Witmosselpot.

Photos - Sean Thompson -Legless.tv (South Africa)

Words - Gigs Celliers & Lawrence Robert Atkinson - Legless.tv (South Africa)

[leglesstv]

2017 US Kneeboard Titles

On March 10th Kneeboard Surfing USA will host the 2017 US Kneeboard Titles at Oceanside Harbor, site of the 2008 US Titles.  Brad Colwell recently caught up with the 2008 Open Champion Tom Backer from Huntington Beach.  

Brad:  Hi Tom! Let me begin by sharing part of the press release from your victory in 2008 at the Harbor.

Huntington Beach’s Tom Backer Claims Kneeboard Surfing U.S. Title

Orange County Kneeboarders Win Two of Four Divisions as well as Team Competition

Oceanside, CA (Thursday, Feb. 14, 2008) – Tom Backer used sweeping cutbacks and straight-up vertical surfing to edge-out the competition at the Kneeboard Surfing U.S. Championships held Feb. 8 and 9 at Oceanside Harbor. Backer, 45, surfed flawlessly in the open division final – held in glassy, head-high waves.

A dominant competitor during the late 1970s, Backer led a resurgent and spirited group of Orange County kneelos who claimed two of the four individual titles and the team event title. Backer’s victory was a popular one; the former NSSA Champion appears to be surfing even better today as he did nearly 30 years ago.

Pat Evans of Newport Beach surfed solidly throughout the contest and placed a close second in the open final. Ed Quinn of El Segundo worked hard for well-deserved third-place finish, and Robb Salfen of Los Osos – who impressed many over the two-day event with his fluid, small-wave skills – placed fourth.

Brad:  Congratulations again on a well-deserved victory Tom.  Please share some of your memories from the 2008 Titles.

Tom: Hello Brad.  The 2008 Comp was over 8 years ago, but I do have a few wonderful memories of that comp!  I had my son, Tiernan there.  That was a neat experience for me to come out ahead and have him with me.  As a bonus, Tiernan, Wayne Kopit, and myself got to surf virtually empty overhead Blacks after the comp!   I vividly remember my first heat of the day against some of the San Diego boys.  The surf was small and inconsistent and those guys were frothing, ripping into every wave that came into the lineup and leaving me to decide “how hungry are you for a win?”  I luckily made it out of that heat and quickly realized that I had to make sure to position myself in the right spot in the lineup during a heat and surf to the judge’s criteria in order to have a crack at advancing.  

KSUSA events have a sense of camaraderie and positive feedback by, and for, the competitors at the comp.  I know we try and cheer each other on, discuss heat strategies, crack jokes to lighten the mood….  It’s things like that, that were uplifting and the positive mood was infectious!  It just gave me confidence heading into the Semis and Final.  

During the Finals, there were actually some waves in our heat and I don’t remember even seeing the other finalists Rob Salfen, Pat Evans, or Ed Quinn at all!  There were enough waves that we were able to spread out and do our own thing, rather than hassle each other.  I was fortunate, and lucky enough, to come in ahead of the others, because I know that they could have won as well.  

Brad:  You’ve had success in competition over the years but how hard is it to win the US Titles?  

Tom:  It’s hard to believe I’ve attended three World Titles and been in numerous contests since that 2008 comp, and I find it so tough to replicate that win!  I’ve been consistent in the US with three 2nd place finishes, but another KSUSA Title has been elusive for me! I’ve found it very difficult to win a Title; there are so many variables that you have to be able to negotiate to win one.  Some variables you can control and others you can’t. But, overall, you’ve got to be so on it, ready mentally and physically.  Also, you need to have the ability to be flexible when the surf conditions change during the contest, to manage the time in your heat, and surf to the criteria!  There is also a small aspect of luck involved.  For instance, are there waves in your heat or, getting a close score to inch out your competitor.  But above all, I believe you have to be flexible mentally and physically to be in the game.

Brad:  During heats, is there a specific strategy you employ, or is it as simple as just trying to surf like you do at The Cove?

Tom:  I strive to surf a heat with a positive mindset and goal, and try to surf to the criteria; push it where I know I can and don’t overthink it.  I don’t always achieve that goal but I try my best. We are pretty competitive at the Cove but we like to share.  It’s usually a fun heckling session seeing how far we can push each other and encouraging one another on when we get a good one.  So, it’s a bit different than surfing a heat in a contest.

Brad:  Which board(s) do you think you’ll ride this March in Oceanside?

Tom: I’ll choose a board based on the conditions that day. If the conditions are small I’ll be riding my quad; its a 5’8” Blast Stub Vector.  If the surf is beefier or hollow I’ll ride my quad 5’10” Shoelkopf.

Brad:  Are there any surfers that you anticipate having a chance at going far, or anybody surfing really good at home currently who plans to enter?

Tom: I think the person who is hungry for a win and shows up mentally and physically prepared has a chance of going far in the comp.  Sam Coyne has been surfing HB lately and the boys and I at the Cove have seen him going mental in the surf. He definitely has the contest savvy and is ripping.  Now that he’s got some new boards under him my bet is he’s got a great opportunity to win the Titles.  A lot of the guys at the Cove have the ability to step up and place well.  Eric Peterson could take the Title; he’s an animal in the water as is Max Bollinger.  Mike Butler is always a threat, and I can’t forget Pat Evans who’s a machine and rips.  The Robertson brothers, Chris Bermudez from Ventura, Barry Baker from SLO and Rob Salfen from Los Osos, and Ed Quinn.  The crew from San Diego has been dominating lately and I’d watch out for Bill Lerner, yourself Brad Colwell, Sean Murphy, and there’s this one guy named Jack Beresford!  He’s only won the KSUSA Titles five times… He’s the Champ and the one everyone wants a piece of!  That’s just to name a few who could go far in the comp.  So yes, there will be some frothing kneelos wanting a piece of the action.

Brad: (laughing) I know what you mean, I’ve lost to all of them over the years!  You’ve had the opportunity to compete in many US Kneeboard Titles as well as several Kneeboard Surfing World Titles.  In your opinion, what is the biggest difference between the two?

Tom:  Both are fun, but the level of surfing is higher at the World Titles with the Australians and Kiwis generally dominating.  There are lots of underground guys and local legends that will school you in a heat; it’s a daunting and difficult prospect with little room for error!  But it’s so rewarding, fun, and you meet a lot of great people.  I think that there are a few kneelos in America that could do well in a World Titles but I believe they need more experience at that competitive level to acquire the skills needed to successfully make it through some heats at the World Titles.  Don’t get me wrong, on any given day there are kneelos in the USA who are as good as their counterparts in Australia but it seems that a lot of kneelos in Australia have that ability to surf a heat on demand at a high level, consistently, in any conditions!  That’s why there’s only a few like Simon Farrer, David Parkes, Albert Munoz, Mike Novokov, Baden Smith, Neil Luke, Gigs, Gavin Colman, Steen Barnes, Chayne Simpson, and our own Jack Beresford!  And that’s one reason we look up to these legends!

Brad:  The 2017 Kneeboard Surfing World Titles will be held in Cantabria, Spain this September. Will you be able to join Team USA?

Tom:  No, not this time Brad.  I am committed to my artwork right now and working on a body of work.  I wish all those going the best of luck.

Brad:  Thanks for your time Tom and best of luck at Oceanside!

Tom:  Thanks Brad, I’ll need it!

For more information about the 2017 KSUSA US Titles and Kneeboard Festival please visit www.ksusa.org

Brad Colwell -Legless.tv