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nadiaamf · 7 years ago

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Le premiere voyage à Paris (2)

In this second post I am going to write about our experiences and the places we visited in details. I sum up a short practical info in each destination for you to be able to estimate your plan or maybe your budget. I bold the name of each destination so you can read them easily and it is linked to the official or informative web so you can read the full info there, just click it buddies! Please just bear with this long-read post :-)

Pre-Departure

Our train’s schedule was on Saturday morning 10.45 am. We took the bus at 8.30 am (just in case, better be early right?). If you are living in France, or maybe in other European countries, please remember that the bus schedule will be less often than the weekdays. Here in Toulouse, the bus schedule will be every 30 minutes (or can be more) in weekends. It took us about 20 minutes to arrive at Marengo SNCF station. When we arrived, the schedule screen showed the train was on time.

Here’s a little side story. After about 10 minutes waiting there was this small incident that all of the occupants needed to be about 50 meters away outside the station. I (well not only me) was a lil bit confused about what was happening because it seemed quite serious. The officers did not know either what was happening or how long did we have to wait. There were even an ambulance and fire trucks. In fact, there was this unaccompanied bag left inside the station therefore they had to clear the area in case of some unwanted accident :-/ You know, France has increased its security since there were some terrorist attacks in the country these past years. I forgot how long we actually waited but the train’s schedule was delayed for 50 minutes. Lesson learnt: do not ever left your belongings unaccompanied!

Tips for traveling by train:

Always check out the baggage rules, they usually have different maximum weight or quantity of luggage which we can bring into the carriages.Or sometimes they do not.

Always re-check the depart and return schedule. Even here, the train sometimes has a delayed departure.

Prepare you personal medication(s).

Bring some nourishment whether only a pack of candies/chocolate/chips or even your breakfast/lunch/dinner with you. They do provide some drinks or snacks but it is gonna be a long trip anyway.

DAY 01

Office de Tourisme de Paris

25 rue des Pyramides, 1e arrondissement

Opens every day, except 1 May

10:00 - 19:00 (01 Oct to 30 Apr) // 09:00 - 19:00 (02 May to 31 Sept)

First thing first, we need to pick up our Paris Museum Pass. Don’t forget to write your name and the date as well on the back of your card. Here you can also find brochures and several tourism guides book in French, English, and Mandarin (I believe?) This city really has so much to offer, you tell me! If you don’t have any plan in mind (this is nearly impossible lol), there will always be something that suits your preference. Or maybe, a romantic stroll around the park?

Musée de l'Orangerie

Jardin des Tuileries, Place de la Concorde, 1e arrondissement

Opens every day, except Tuesdays

09 am to 6 pm // Last Admission: 05:15 pm

Full Rate: €9 // Concessions: €6,50

My first stop museum is this beautiful place which is well-known for its “Water Lilies” by Claude Monet, a legendary French painter with his impressionist style. These paintings were donated by him to France after the 1st World War.

“.....and for he would live in it, this room offer a refuge for peaceful meditation in the midst o flowering aquarium” – Claude Monet

I tell you, it was honestly the best part except the fact that there were too many people in the room until the keeper had to tell the visitors to keep silent. So guys, be wise enough to appreciate the art and respect other visitors as this is a kind of ‘contemplation room’ I may say. It was truly one of that rare moment for me where I could experience what the artist wanted to deliver through the space and his art itself.

After all, the visit was my favo just because I could literally have my time to really pay attention to what the museum offers. Besides, I was also mesmerized by how beautiful it is which successfully combines two different styles of architecture into one! Bravo!

Suggestion(s):

Wake up early! As early as possible since it opens at 9 am and you don’t want to miss the chance to enjoy the water lilies room peacefully.

This museum has an auditorium where you can watch some documentaries about the works or even the building itself. It has the schedule board hung on its door, be sure you check it out first.

Musée du Louvre

Rue de Rivoli, 1e arrondissement

Opens every day, except Tuesdays

Closed: January 1, May 1, May 8, December 25

9:00 am to 6:00 pm // Night opening until 9:45 pm on Wednesdays & Fridays

Online: €17 // On the spot: €15

After strolling around and having our packed sandwich as lunch in Jardin des Tulleries, we finally arrived in front of the Louvre. In fact, Louvre is the largest art museum in the world lol so no wonder it was really huge. It is located in the heart of Paris (1e arrondissement) as a central landmark of the city. The museum is actually housed inside the Louvre Palace with a steel-glass pyramid as the main entrance as well as its main icon. This iconic pyramid is standing in the center of the palace’s main courtyard. It’s designed by I.M.Pei, a Chinese American architect.

The line was long enough even if it was autumn to winter transition time. It was drizzling and cold but somehow romantic. Fortunately we had this Paris Museum Pass so it only took 5 minutes including security check for us to be able to enter this marvelous museum. Apparently, I heard from my friend that it actually has another entrance on the other side of the building where there will be less visitor.

This museum is divided into 4 big sections. It is up to you to take which one to begin with but me and my husband chose to see the Islamic Art first. They have wide range collections of painting, print, drawing, sculpture, decorative art, etc. One of the famous art to see inside is the Monalisa painting by Leonardo da Vinci. Yes you’ll meet her here! Truthfully my husband and I did see it but hmmm we couldn’t say much because we saw it from too far -- it was super crowdedddd. I am sure I really need more than a day to literally see all (single one) they got inside. It is like a play park for an art student if I may say. Incredible!

On the way to the exit doors, you will find a space which kinda look like a small scale mall to me. They are souvenir shops, as you may have guessed. It was around 5 pm when we decided to end the visit to take a photo in front of the main pyramid before it gets dark. It was a right decision because we got a beautiful tone of Paris’ sunset after rain in which was kind of violaceous. Perfect!

Side note(s):

Some museums, galleries, and châteaux (at least in Paris) have this security check with the x-ray machine just like in the airport, so don’t be surprised and be well prepared.

Inside, it has a modern locker room where you can even store your wet umbrella with self-service system. This is where I realized why a museum or even a gallery really needs a proper locker room; one, you really don’t want have an uncomfortable visit by bringing your huge handbag/backpack/coat etc around and two, your belongings might harm some of the collections.

DAY 02

Fondation Louis Vuitton

8 avenue du Mahatma Gandhi, Bois de Boulogne, 75116 Paris

Opens every day, except Tuesdays

Closed: January 1st, May 1st, May 8th and December 25th

12:00 AM to 07:00 PM (Monday to Friday) // 11:00 AM to 08:00 PM (Saturday & Sunday) -- hours might differ, depend on the season and exhibition

Full Rate: €15 // Concession: €10 (Under 26 y/o), €5 (under 18 y/o)

The name may be not a clear explanation for most of people. Fondation Louis Vouitton is basically an art museum and cultural center in Paris, sponsored by private company LVMH and designed by the one and only, Frank Gehry. The 1st time I knew about this building was when I read an article mentioning the criticism towards his work back in uni life.

Besides the contemporary exhibition space, it also has permanent exhibition and a mini performing space/auditorium that is surrounded by a pond which is linked to outer landscape of this building. You can also enjoy Paris cityscape (yes, included Eiffel tower) from the rooftop garden while sipping your coffee or just admiring the ‘naked’ structure of this building. For you who is into architecture will find this building a more interesting place to visit. Also, they have special section where there is a whole story about the architecture so once again a place to enrich our knowledge not just about its art content.

After taking the metro, the building is still 800 meters away, about 10-15 minutes walk from Les Sablons Metro Station. I asked my husband to include this one exceptional museum into our itinerary. Unfortunately since our schedule was already tight and it isn’t on the list of Paris Museum Pass, we only planed 1 hour just to take some photos in the morning and go to the next destination. BUT THEN there was this first MoMA (Museum of Modern Art) exhibition in France inside I couldn’t resist but buy the ticket!

Suggestion(s):

Take your time and walk instead (as long as possible), there you’ll find a lovely neighborhood on the way. They actually provide you a navette that cost €2 per person but walking sharpen our sense of place so why not -- besides it’s healthier.

If you have extra time, take a moment to enjoy the park right beside the building -- take a breath before continuing your trip.

Always check their schedule before you pay a visit in case you want to spend an extra to enjoy their selected temporary exhibition.

Arc de Triomphe

Place Charles de Gaulle, 75008 Paris

Opens every day

Closed: 1 January, 1 May, 8May (morning), 14 July, 11 November (morning) and 25 December

10 am to 10.30 pm 10 am to 11.00 pm // Last Admission: 45 min before closing time

Full Rate: €12 // Concession: €9

We literally only took some pictures and done. It was almost winter but it was crowded enough for me not to make more effort to get a decent self photo in front of it lol. I can’t imagine if it were summer holiday. People were crazy enough to stand as closest as they could to this monument while it is actually surrounded by big roads. Always make sure to keep your bag safe from pickpockets!

Champs Elysée

8th arrondissement

Length: 1.91 km

Width: 70 m (230 ft)

I still remember I decided to make a sketch of this legendary boulevard for Arsitektur Kota class. Having been told that some famous artists once lived inside the building’s rooftop amazed me back then. Although when I was there I wasn’t that impressed (oh what did I expect lol) maybe just because it was too crowded, both the road and the shopping stores filling this boulevard line. From HnM to Louis Vuitton, Brioche Dorée to Ladurée. Just like its french song, you can find all what you want in Champs Elysée.

Centre Georges Pompidou

Place Georges-Pompidou, 19 Rue Beaubourg 75004 Paris

Opens every day, except Tuesdays and 1 May

11 am to 10 pm (exhibition areas close at 9 p.m.) Thursdays until 11 p.m. (only exhibitions on level 6)

Last Admission: 1 hour before closing time Full Rate: €14 // Concession: €11

Another well known architecture in Paris designed by a team consisting Richard Rogers and Renzo Piano. Its iconic style distinguish itself from other building in Paris or at least around the area. “The Centre Pompidou houses the Musée National d'Art Moderne, which is Europe's largest museum for modern art. Also located in the vast open interior is the Bibliothèque publique d'information, a huge public library, and a center for music and acoustic research known as IRCAM.” as quoted from an @archdaily article.

It was almost sun set when we get there and was a bit shocked because the line is too long we did not sure if we would make it inside before its closing time -- ok it’s a bit exaggerated but I really need minimum 2 hours to enjoy museums/gallery to at least read a caption or two -- but thanks God apparently with our Paris Museum Pass we had different entrance which there were only a couple of people. The sad news is with Paris Museum Pass, you can only enter certain area but for us it was perfectly enough. Fyi, you can watch the sunset and Paris city from above on its 6th floor.

The interior was simple yet you can get lost in it. I mean there were soooo many sections and endless artworks which for me are all attractive. There was this one temporary exhibition that was catching my curiosity. I considered my self lucky as I had the chance to at least witness one of her work, i mean it was magical, hideous, and depressing at the same time can you imagine?

Euro Fried Chicken

60 Boulevard de Sébastopol, 75003 Paris

Opens every day from 11 to 1.30 am (except on public holiday the time might be varied)

First of all, I’ve been craving for food that I’m familiar with. Fried chicken never sounds so tempting when my mother told us that there is a fried chicken resto near the Centre Georges Pompidou and it is HALAL. No doubt we directly stopped by and ended up buying a big bucket before going home for a take away dinner. This is the best fried chicken of my version in the entire world, even better than K*C original recipe fried chicken lol. I mean, the seller is an Indian and of course he puts other indian spices (or whatever it is) into the batter. It is absolutely better to eat is right after being served while you can still hear the crisp from the batter and taste the juiciness and tenderness from the meat --- heaven! At least we didn’t only eat kebab for the entire trip hahahaha.

DAY 03

Villa Savoye

82, rue de Villiers 78300 Poissy

Opens every day, except Mondays

Closed: 1 May, 1 & 11 November and from December the 25th to January the 1st

Last Admission: 1 hour before closing time

10 am to 5 pm (2 Jan to 30 Apr & 1 Sept to 31 Dec) // 10 am to 6 pm (2 May to 31 Aug)

Full Rate: €8 // Concession: €6.5

Maybe this one is not a typical destination to all of you but it is a special one for me and for those who studied architecture or just love finding out more about architecture. Yes this building is one of the iconic building I studied back in Uni designed by Le Corbusier, a famous french architect built between 1928 and 1931. It is used to be a rich family private villa and now is officially one of French historical monument as it remarks the origins of modern architecture and is one of the most easily recognizable examples of International style.

First of all, you need to know that this monument is not located in Paris but in Poissy. You need to take the RER A in zone 1-5. My husband and I woke up earlier so that we could catch the first train, but unfortunately there was an accident in the subway so we had to wait until there was further announcement. I admit it was quite chaos and I was a bit worried if we could make it to Poissy just in time before the fog disappeared and it got crowded. We finally got on the train, we took a bus near the station as soon as we got off to get to the actual location.

It was Tuesday and apparently they have a routine guided tour in English every Wednesday 10 am, I guess we weren’t lucky that day but it’s fine! At least finally I could see this one of Le Corbusier's masterpiece in person, observe and experience it in real life is such a dream comes true. As I looked around I slowly understand why this specific project is such a breakthrough in its era. Even after more than eight decades, his way of thinking in delivering a space to live is still relatable to this day.

Sacré-Cœur Basilica

35 Rue du Chevalier de la Barre, 75018 Paris

The Basilica: opens every day from 6 am to 10.30 pm // Free entry

The Dome: opens every day from 8.30 am to 8 pm (May to September) and 9 am to 5 pm (October to April)

Since it is an active church area, please keep in mind to always be respectful while you are inside or even outside. They have night visit, thematic visit, panoramic virtual tour, and other religious activities. It is located not far from the metro station and you will find many souvenir shops as soon as you are outside the station. Well I got my Paris souvenir from here, some magnets for my mom and post cards for my siblings & friends.

On this area of souvenir shops, I found a group of people played a kind of ‘magic trick’ which attract visitors to join and include their money. Some of you might meet a group of people offering a souvenir-like bracelet near the Basilica, but be careful because it is 90% a scam. Not that I was deceived, but I heard my friend’s stories and my husband experience in such type of scam while in Paris. So be careful guys!

I wasn’t that interested to go inside and decided to enjoy the sun from the front park instead. There are some security men who ride horses. You will also find some musicians plays their romantic songs. Don’t be surprise that there will be even if it’s not holiday season. I took several photos and tried the cable car to go down. You can see one side of Paris city from above, or even watch the sun set with your travel friends.

Philharmonie de Paris

221 Avenue Jean Jaurès, 75019 Paris

Opens every day except Mondays Closed on December 25th, January 1st and May 1st

Tuesday to Friday – 12pm to 6pm Saturday and Sunday – 10am to 6pm

Museum: Free (up to 26 y/o), €6 (under 28 y/o)

In fact, this building is standing on the east side of Parc de La Villette -- the third largest park in Paris -- with other music/art related facilities. You will find La Grande Halle de La Villette where Pitchfork Music Festival usually take place, close to Le Zénith Paris.

The building itself is designed by another famous french architect named Jean Nouvel, with some drama and critique behind its completion process and launching. All in all it is another mesmerizing work of art for me, one of those “monumental” architecture with its multi-tonal facade of interlocking bird-shaped tiles both on wall and ground surfaces.

I cannot provide you guys as many information about the building’s interior as we only strolled around Philharmonie’s exterior area. I intended to do the guided tour but unfortunately there wasn’t one since there was a temporary exhibition held that week. My husband was a bit unsure seeing the web, we decided to directly ask the information on the spot. So we were indeed not a well-prepared for this one. We definitely will revisit this destination next time we’re in Paris to look inside and share the experience. I hope we’ll have the chance to also watch a show inside :-)

DAY 04

Château de Versailles

Place d'Armes, 78000 Versailles

I recommend you to check directly into their official web (click the title above) to see the complete practical infos.

As you might have guessed by its name that this chateau is not located in Paris. It is located in Versailles, in South-West Paris. This chateau stands on a 8.2 km² area filled with fascinating landscape you won’t forget. We took the Transilien for less than 1 hour. They have varied ticket prices since there are several events and separated buildings to be visited. With the Paris Museum Pass you can have the standard visit to The Main Palace. Visiting the garden is free. I forget about the self audio guide if it is included or not, but you have to ask on the spot to get one. They won’t give it to each visitor unless you ask for it. I recommend you guys to take it, if you have to pay I think it’s gonna be 5 euro max.

My husband and I spent the whole day to visit this very famous Palace and of course its majestic hall of mirrors. Well, we planned it that way because we had anticipated the long line and estimated the time to explore this vast building and landscape. Besides the fact that it takes time to go back and forth from Paris to Versailles, we’re sure we would need sufficient time to at least comprehend the overwhelming beauty and history of this principal royal residence of France -- from 1682, under Louis XIV, until the last King, Louis XVI in early 1789. As one of UNESCO World Heritage site, they have absolutely preserved most of its original properties pretty well.

Well, I do not know much about history because I remember of not liking it back in school days -- I was not even a fan of this style of architecture, but I think I do now thanks to this eye-opening trip lol I guess I start to understand now why traveling is important. I tried to catch up by listening to the self audio guide. For me it is way more convenient to listen rather than reading from a book. And this is even better, listening while witnessing the real deal. These past days of visiting Paris has been too much to bear for my brain I need to catch a breath haha.

DAY 05

La Tour Eiffel

Champ de Mars, 5 Avenue Anatole France, 75007 Paris

Height: 300 m, 324 m to tip

Construction started: January 28, 1887

Maybe this one is most of people’s number one destination. We can say that you have not gone to Paris if you didn’t visit this ‘Iron Lady’. Usually people will buy a ticket to go up inside the tower to be able to see the beautiful Paris from above. I honestly not that into this one just because it’s too mainstream people tend to brag it so much it’s annoying?? But then I just couldn’t let my friends and family down not taking the photos of them in front of it like this hahahaha. Love you guys!

Me and my husband chose to just strolling around the Jardin de Tulleries and Champ de Mars instead. Too bad it was nearly winter so we couldn’t enjoy that green grass carpet and do the picnic. Next time! We walked passing the Eiffel Tower until La Place du Trocadero. We took our time to eat our packed lunch there. This is the spot where most of the tourist take those typical shot because you can ‘fit’ the tower into your standard photo frame size so do not miss this spot if you intend to do the same.

Cité de l'Architecture et du Patrimoine

1 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre, 75116 Paris, France

Opens 11 am - 7 pm Last entry and ticket counter closes at 6:15 pm Galleries close at 6:45 pm

Thursday evenings until 9 pm Last entry and ticket counter closes at 8:15 pm Galleries close at 8:45

Closed on Tuesdays, January 1, May 1 and December 25

Full price : €12 // Reduced rate : €8 (Collections & temporary exhibitions combined)

This one is included in the museum pass. As an achitecture graduate I felt like having this one on my list. Inside, you will find almost every famous building built in France in shape of maquettes, posters, or films. Oh and there are not just a usual maquette because some of them are made in bigger scales than a regular maquette it is amazing! Considering its location and what it got inside, this museum is not as crowded as I thought it would be.

With its double-height ceiling the interior felt so spacious just perfect for its various collections from small to a man-sized room duplicate of Le Corbusier’s Unité d’Habitation replique! Those large repeating windows giving the maximum view to the Eiffel Tower for us to peek. There was also a temporary exhibition of some university students’ projects. I underestimated it but I have to admit it was worth my time.

Notre Dame de Paris

6 Parvis Notre-Dame - Place Jean-Paul II, 75004 Paris The Cathedral opens everyday Mon - Fri 08.00 - 18.45 Sat & Sun 08.00 - 19.15 Free entrance

Next is this popular catholic cathedral in France, Notre Dame de Paris. Sometimes people are mistaken that notre dame only exists in Paris but in fact it’s not. This specific cathedral is one of the finest examples of French Gothic architecture style. Another destination to grasp art and history. They provide artistic guide visit for different languages each in different schedule so be sure to check their website first if you’re interested to join one. We only took some pictures and enjoyed Paris’ windy afternoon sitting right across the building, observing people around.

Shakespeare & Co

37 rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Paris, France

Main Shop -- Every day 10am to 10pm Antiquarian -- Tuesday to Saturday 11am to 7pm Café -- Mon to Fri 9:30am-7pm // Sat and Sun 9:30am-8pm

Not far from the cathedral, there is this English language bookshop founded in 1951. We crossed the Seine river and took some photos from the bridge. It was a lively neighborhood. Outside there were small stands for secondhand books and certainly cheaper price. Right next to its main entrance door there is a small intimate café. When you come in, you’ll be welcomed by book-packed walls, nice book paper smell, warm color lights, and friendly atmosphere. In the second floor, there is a small room where you can read books peacefully accompanied by some cute lazy cats. I mean, it is may be a paradise for you who love to spend the day indulging in your imagination. It is not allowed to take pictures inside, so I don’t have any but i can say that every corner in this building absolutely has its own beautiful story.

Musée d’Orsay

1 Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, 75007 Paris, France

Full rate €14 // Concession €11 // Free on first Sundays of the month (and others eligibility on its official web)

Closed every Monday, 1 May and 25 December

Not much to say except stunning! Musée d’Orsay is one of the largest art museums in Europe. We could see that this museum was once a train station with an iconic big big watch on the front and sides facades. In my opinion, the main hall express the ultimate style of a great french museum. I feel like I was in a romantic classical drama lol. Another museum building that is a true art itself. It has not only painting but also sculpture, furniture, but also photography collections.

It has the largest collection of impressionist and post-Impressionist masterpieces in the world by painters including Monet, Renoir, Cézanne, Van Gogh and others. I felt like I fell in love all over again with --- paintings. I was fascinated by the decoration details in this museum at first but then I found myself in a room filled with works of masterpiece. The wall’s color really help building up the mood for every section. Oh it was crowded but it was perfect anyway -- an incredible atmosphere where the art was appreciated, not just a mere objects to take a selfie with. Another rare experience where I was drowned deep into my curiosity and imagination.

There I learned why an art of those can be called a masterpiece or even an artist can be called a legendary one. A flashback to why in the first place I love to draw when I was in my childhood --- I was left speechless. I guess I need to revisit this one next time I am in Paris to finish all the sections left untouched.

DAY 06

Institut du monde arabe

1 Rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard, 75005 Paris, France

Closed on Mondays, Tue Wed Fri 10am - 6pm, Thu Sat Sun 10am - 7pm

Ticket desks close 45 minutes before the closing times

Full rate €8

Reduced rate €6: job seekers and groups of friends (6 people or more)

Reduced rate €4: under 26s and non-European Union citizens

It is another architectural work by Jean Nouvel, specifically for the exceptional facade. I watched a documentary about this building in uni talking about the technology applied on the facade to adjust the intensity of sun rays. Fyi, it is important to be able to manage how much light can access an exhibition room since it may affects some collections. At first thought, I guessed it was going to be all about Islam but well you know I was wrong haha because it’s not.

Inside, after buying or confirming your tickets in front desk, you will have to start your visit from the upper level down to the lower ground exhibition space where you’ll find the souvenir and book shop at the end. It was another new experience, enjoying an exhibition with a different sequence like that. From what I observed, it is a way for visitors to be “on track“ to the timeline of its history and to the story line which they want to offer you. They want us to experience the exhibition as a whole as we are directed to go on in one same plot: going down -- there is no alternative ending. Interesting, isn’t it?

La Grande Mosquée de Paris

Grande Mosquée de Paris, 2bis Place du Puits de l'Ermite, 75005 Paris, France

Opens everyday for praying and visits, except Friday for visiting

Like you can guess it is a mosque where Moslems usually do their prayer. This is the first mosque built in Paris thus one of the oldest mosque in France. It’s opened in 1926. We chose the last day of our trip to visit this mosque just so my husband and I could do the Friday prayer. It has a moorish architecture style with ornaments you can also find similar in Al Hambra or Alcazar, I instantly fell in love with it. There is a main entrance where you can start your touristic visit welcomed by the beautiful inner court. There is also a Moroccan Resto just in the corner of the street that you can try.

Since it was Friday, the mosque was quite crowded. I saw many different faces and colors of skin, suddenly I felt a lil relieved. It was another kind of experience that we had, or at least for me. Living in a country where I am a minority made me realize how blessed I am growing up having all the privileges. Simple gestures -- like when a young woman smiled at me and helped me finding where to do this and that or when a woman praised my traveling mukena simply because maybe it was not easy finding one -- made me even more grateful.

After we finished, we went inside once again to really see this admirable building but also its history. In fact, we just knew that it is closed on Fridays for touristic visit but we were allowed to do a short sight seeing, alhamdulillah.

I honestly had not much expectation about my first ever trip abroad but I count my self as lucky as I had a chance to visit Paris in the first place with my beloved one. Let’s pray that I’ll have another chance to visit Paris with even more companies and memories to share :-)

#Paris #autumn #2017 #travel

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lavotha · 7 years ago

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Driving all the way from Monaco to the City of Lights

We packed our car and left Monaco Friday morning on December 23, 2017, heading for Beaune in the heart of Burgundy. More than 6 hours later we arrived to Hostellerie Le Cedre, got installed in our beautiful and comfortable room, and immediately went out for a stroll in the charming village of Beaune. We bought some excellent bottles of wine from our friend Johan Björklund who owns L’Hotel de Beaune (that unfortunately was closed during the holiday season), the Bistro and the Wine shop, of course. Back at our hotel we had drinks by the fire followed by a delicious gourmet dinner at their Michelin recommended restaurant Le Clos du Cedre.

Early next morning we were on our way to the City of Lights, arriving around midday to the apartment we rented on rue de Belgrade on the 7th arrondissement, with a view of the Eiffel Tower. (Photo insert: The Eiffel Tower on our arrival to Paris @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha)

We love the location for many reasons, but especially because we have a great boulangerie nearby and is just a few blocks from Rue Cler, the most famous market street in Paris! There you find a selection of fresh produce, specialty food stores, patisseries, butchers, delicatessens, cheese specialists, fishmongers, greengrocers, flower shops and cafes. For the main shopping we went to the Grande Epicerie de Paris, but there were so many people at this time of the year that we went only once, preferring a daily visit to Rue Cler.

This legendary street is pedestrian and still has its original cobblestones. It is where the locals go to buy their favorite foods, stroll or hang out on a café terrace to watch the world go by. My husband who loves to cook believes that when in Paris staying near rue Cler is an absolute must!

Rue Cler the famous market in Paris The old and the new at the Jardin des Tulleries in Paris @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Fresh produce on Rue Cler @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Flower shop on Rue Cler @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Delicatessen on Rue Cler @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Cheese selection and more on Rue Cler @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Entertainer on Rue Cler @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Shoe repair shop in Paris @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

I decorated the apartment for Christmas while my husband prepared delicious meals, but we also went for lunch to L’Esplanade near Pont Alexandre, L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, and to Café Flore and Les Deux Magots for tea and the typical Croque Monsieur. On Christmas Day we had lunch at Ralph’s and visited their boutique of course. That same evening we went to a very heartwarming Vivaldi Concert at La Madeleine with the orchestra of Les Violons de France. It was sublime!

Our Christmas Lunch @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Christmas lunch with view of the Eiffel Tower @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

The sun always comes back after a storm @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

The Bar at Ralph’s @CelinaLafuentedeLvotha

Lunch at Ralph’s @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Christmas Night concert at La Madeleine @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

We welcomed the New Year in style with a black-tie dinner at the sumptuous apartment of friends of friends on the Quai de Louvre overlooking the Seine River. Our hosts were lovely and dinner delicious! On New Year’s Day we met dear friends at the legendary Brasserie Lip, so Parisian! The rest of the time we walked around Paris, with an umbrella because it was raining on and off with sunny spells!

Majestic Eiffel Tower illuminated @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

View from Pont Alexandre, my favorite bridge in the whole world @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Strolling in the Tulleries Gardens on a sunny day @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Statue at Les Tulleries Gardens in Paris @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

The highlight of our trip was the chance to visit two important couture exhibitions and the Louis Vuitton Foundation.

Paris is couture and couture is Paris

Thanks to the help from a very influential art connoisseur from the Principality we were invited to the two main couture exhibitions in Paris: Yves-Saint Laurent and Christian Dior. We not only avoided the very long lines, but had the privilege of being treated to a private visit!

An intimate glimpse into YSL’s fantastic universe

The Yves Saint Laurent Museum is on 5 Avenue Marceau in the 16th, where YSL blossoming business moved on July 14, 1974, a magnificent Napoleon III-style mansion (“hotel particulier” in French). The haute couture house that had over two hundred people working on a daily basis, closed in October 2002 and became the Fondation Pierre Berge – Yves Saint Laurent, recognized of public interest later that year. Its main mission is to conserve and promote Saint Laurent’s legacy of thousands of designs and the many records related to their creation, celebrating the creative mind of one of the greatest fashion designers of the 20th century.

Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berge had an unique relationship and together they created and ran a high fashion house making into an empire. It was Saint Laurent who described their couple as “that great eagle with two heads who navigated the seas, transcended boundaries, and invaded the world with its unparalleled scope, that was us.” They also gathered one of the world’s most important private art collections, auctioned off by Berge in the “sale of the century” in 2009 at the Grand Palais, in Paris. (Photo insert: Portraits of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berge @YSL archives)

The exhibition starts on the ground floor housing the Haute Couture salons where the designer welcomed his clients for private appointments after the introduction of each collection, with each client assigned a personal sales attendant to oversee the fittings before the final tailor-made attire was finalized. Fashion shows were also held here, but in 1976 were moved to the Inter-Continental Hotel where they became fantastic spectacles with music.

The first section of the exhibition gathers the designs that became YSL’s signature style, each one appropriated from menswear adapted and adjusted to the feminine figure, combining clean lines and elegance. YSL created these pieces in 1970 coinciding with the women’s liberation campaign.

Sketches by YSL @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Robes by YSL @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

YSL timeless creations @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Magnificent design by YSL @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

YSL elaborate creations @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Embroidered jacket by YSL @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

The exposition continues with the history of a collection, season after season, with countless of sketches the designer made that were later transferred to his ateliers together with the fabric swatches, classified according to specific type: suite, dress, or coat. A collection consisted of approximately one hundred designs with accessories, reflecting the artist’s inspiration, mood, and era. YSL collaborated with highly skilled artisans such as weavers, dyers, printers, embroiderers, goldsmiths and silversmiths, with creations that needed hundreds of hours of work that resulted in unique masterpieces. (Photo insert: Heart by YSL (the heart became his symbol) @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha)

YSL’s Studio was central to the mansion, as a contrast with the magnificent salons, bright, quiet, neutral space with a mirrored wall, was the perfect environment for him to create. In the bookshelves you find the publications that were his source of inspiration, and the mirrored wall allowed him to study the model’s reflection from all angles.

YSL’s desk at his studio @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Fabric swatches at YSL’s Studio @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

YSL Studio with the mirrored wall @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Christian Dior and his timeless legacy

The Decorative Arts Museum in Paris, on Rue de Rivoli near the Louvre, celebrated the 70th anniversary of the creation of the Christian Dior design house, with a complex, extraordinary and intense exhibition costing over 10 million Euros. The last retrospective dedicated to the designer took place in 1987 at the same museum, focusing on ten years of the couturier’s designs (1947-1957). This objective of this new exhibition was to invite the visitors to discover the world of his founder and those who superseded him: Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferre, John Galiano, Raf Simons and recently Maria Grazia Chiuri.

Dior was a leading figure in the world in the 20th century fashion when he launched his New Look spring/summer collection in 1947, changing the direction of the feminine shape, leaving in the past the masculine silhouette of the war years, by bringing flowing curves and the bearing of a classical ballet dancer. Dior said: “My prime inspiration is the shape of the female body.” Dior’s were loyal to his desire to “make women happier and more beautiful,” perpetuating his legacy and spirit, enhancing harmony of elegance, splendor and simplicity.

Timeless CD design at the entrance of the exhibition @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Legendary flacon of Miss Dior parfume @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Miniature collection WHITE Christian Dior creations, dresses, bags, perfumes, jewels @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Miniature RED Christian Dior collection with bags, shoes and parfumes @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Photo of make up for one of the Dior fashion shows @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

CD creations gracing Magazine covers @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Photo of make up for CD fashion show @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

The selection of more than 300 magnificent haute couture robes, created from 1947 to the present, connect with emotions, stories and inspirations. Standing alongside there are workshop paintings, fashion photographs, and hundreds of illustrations, sketches, letters, manuscripts, plus fashion objects such as hats, jewels, bags, perfume flacons. Christian Dior was a passionate of art and loved museums, so that his creations blend in with the paintings, furniture and art objects.

Creations by present CD designer Maria Grazia Chiuri @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

CD exhibition of robes @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Selection of Christian Dior robes under different designers@CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Christian Dior robe by Galiano @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Christian Dior couture robes in exhibition @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

It was indeed a privilege to have visited the Dior exhibition that was truly spectacular and memorable.

Louis Vuitton Foundation an architectural marvel

We also visited the Louis Vuitton Foundation that this time around was showcasing a selection of 200 works tracing MoMA’s collection history. It was really interesting, but I have to confess that every time we are in Paris with visit the LV Foundation especially for its architectural design, so the photos I show will center on this architectural marvel. The photos speak by themselves.

Windows, Fondation Louis Vuitton, architecture (3) @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Steel structures, Fondation Louis Vuitton, architecture (1) @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Reflections on water, Fondation Louis Vuitton, architecture (5) @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Red parca,Fondation Louis Vuitton, architecture (6) @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Lights and shadows, Fondation Louis Vuitton, architecture (4) @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

View of the Eiffel Tower from the Fondation Louis Vuitton @CelinaLafuenteDeLavotha

View of Paris, Fondation Louis Vuitton, architecture (2) @CelinaLafuentedeLavotha

Today’s Quotes

“In order to live and survive, every man has to have what Nietzsche called aesthetic phantoms.” Yves Saint Laurent

“Deep in every heart slumbers a dream, and the couturier knows it: every woman is a princess.” Chistian Dior

Celebrating the holidays in Paris with a visit to the Yves Saint Laurent & Christian Dior exhibitions Driving all the way from Monaco to the City of Lights We packed our car and left Monaco Friday morning on December 23, 2017, heading for Beaune in the heart of Burgundy.

#Christian Dior exhibition in Paris #Eiffel Tower #La Madeleine #Le Musee des Arts décoratifs #Les Violons de France #Paris #Ralph&039;s restaurant #Rue Cler in Paris #The Four Seasons by Vivaldi #The Louis Vuitton Foundation #Yves Saint Laurent Museum

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