#jaljala

[welcomerajan]

𝐇𝐚𝐯𝐞 𝐲𝐨𝐮 𝐞𝐯𝐞𝐫 𝐡𝐞𝐚𝐫𝐝 𝐨𝐟 𝐉𝐚𝐥𝐣𝐚𝐥𝐚 𝐃𝐝𝐡𝐨𝐫𝐩𝐚𝐭𝐚𝐧 𝐓𝐫𝐞𝐤?

It is just a hidden gem and an off-the-beaten-path trekking route located in the western region of Nepal. It offers a unique opportunity to explore the remote and pristine landscapes of the Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve and the Jaljala area.

[marveltreks1998]

Jaljala Pass Trek, Dhaulagiri, Nepal. 

Jaljala Gurila Trek 14 days is situated western of the in Rolpa district Nepal. Jaljala Gurila Trek 14 days one of the recently opened trekking areas (trail) in Nepal. Visit in Jaljala in the spring time transports you to a supernatural land with colorful carpet of wild blossoms, green meadows and Rhododendron forests. 

The presence of more than hundreds of species of birds and wild life such as leopard, bear, Musk deer and wild boar is another attraction of Jaljala. One can have sweeping view of Mt.Sisne, Mt.Putha, Mt.Dhaulagiri, Mt.Annapurna and other mountains. Mostly populated by Magar, one of the indigenous people of Nepal, it is a wonderful experience to have a close look at their way of life style and culture. The people of Guerrilla trekking trail have undergone lots of hardships during the war period and they are trying to forget the war wounds and trauma through tourism. Due to the geographical settings, the places we are visiting are away from the modern world and inventions. 

En route we can also enjoy the magnificent vista of the snow-capped mountain ranges like Mt.Dhaulagiri (8167m), Gurja Himal (7193m), Mt. Api Himal, Saipal Himal, Chauri and Since. The surrounding views from the Jalja-La pass (3386m) are also interesting. Nepal Guerrilla trekking begins from Beni, the district headquarter of Myagdi District. The trek further passes through Tatopani, highland meadows of Jaljala Pass, Uttar Ganga River, the dhorpatan Hunting Reserve, Maikot, Taka, Gurjaghat, Gurjakhant, and Niseldhar.

[samaya-samachar]

पर्वतको जलजलामा स्लेटखानी उत्खनन गरिँदै

कालीगण्डकी नदीमा निर्माण सामग्��ी उत्खननको ठेक्का लगाउन नपाउँदा यहाँका स्थानीय तहको आन्तरिक आम्दानी घटेको छ । नदीजन्य पदार्थको

कालीगण्डकी नदीमा निर्माण सामग्री उत्खननको ठेक्का लगाउन नपाउँदा यहाँका स्थानीय तहको आन्तरिक आम्दानी घटेको छ । नदीजन्य पदार्थको उत्खननबाट वार्षिक रु दुई करोड आम्दानी गर्दै आएका कुश्��ा नगरपालिका र जलजला गाउँपालिकाको आम्दानी शून्य भएको छ । स्थानीय तहको मुख्य आम्दानीका रूपमा रहेको नदीजन्य पदार्थ उत्खननमा अदालतको आदेशले रोक लागेको छ । जलजलाका राजस्व अधिकृत लीलाधर सुवेदीका अनुसार नदीजन्य पदार्थ उत्खनन…

[cfor36garh]

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The Baba produced the sound of a “Shankh” by blowing air into the ground through a small hole. Babas and their strange abilities...😅 Exploring with: @shreerammalani #Jaljala...#Mainpat...#Babaji...#Travel #mainpat #Mainpatdiaries #mainpattourism #surajpur #ambikapur #ambikapurian #sitapur #wintervacation #winter #sound #tourismindia #touristplace #tourist #tourwithfamily #Chhattisgarh https://www.instagram.com/p/CLqcQypAbi7/?igshid=prx67yb4cr3c

[rahim-tuphan]

Myagdi-Dhorpatan districts are very suitable for eco-tourism .It has mostly geographical variation with significant bio-diversity. There are available various species of vegetation, mammals, birds and flora-fauna. The world famous Guranshe Ban (Rhododendron forest) is remained here; which is assumed as largest Rhododendron forest in the world. It is home place of famous animals and birds like Kasturee (Deer) and Danfe (Impeyen Pheasant)). Some parts (12600h) of Royal Dhorpatan Hunting Reservation area covered the western parts of the district. There are available almost kind of climates, vegetation, mammals, birds and flora-fauna including numbers of Khola-Nala (Streams) and Jharana (Waterfalls). Every settlement is close to forest with fully natural environment .So it has great prospects of eco-tourism point of view.In this trek you have different experience with Magar Culture and religion. In the district, there are numbers of places to provide panoramic view of Himalayan, Rivers, and Beautiful Landscape. There are also some of the vantage view in this Eco-Tourism Trek such as Takum and Jaljala Deurali with stunning view of Mt. Dhaulagiri Range and Gurga Himal. Then some places are very important for religious site like as Barahasthan where yearly fair in Janaipurnima(Full Moon of August) and Buddha Jayanti (Buddha’s Birth Day). Itenarary Include Exclude Route Price Day 1: Drive from Kathmandu to Beni Day 2: Drive to Darbang and trek to Dharapani Day 3: Dharapani to Lamsung Day 4: Lamsung to Jaljala Day 5: Jaljala to Dhorpatan Day 6: Excursion and trek to Phagune Phedi. Day 7: Hike to Phagune Phedi and trek to Jungle camp. Day 8: Jungle camp to Gurjaghat Day 9: Gurjaghat to Patichaur Day 10: Patichaur to Darbang and drive to Beni Day 11: Drive from Beni to Pokhara Day 12: Drive from Pokhara to Kathmandu

[ramjinepalisworld]

मर्निङ्ग वाक@सुन्दर भुमी मल्लाज काजिन्ने गण्डकी प्रदेश , पर्वत , जलजला , मल्लाज , नेपाल । Photo credit: Bhim Raj Pariyar #Mallaj #Jaljala #MorningWalk #successmindset #learningneverend #120countriesanthemsinger #alwaystourusminnepal #worldfraternity #culturaltourism #goodwill #wefromthemteverestland #wefromthebuddhabornland #welcomeinnepal #worldnationalanthemtraveler #worldtour #nepal #pokhara #baglung #nepaltravel #responsibility https://www.instagram.com/p/CP7a9sgLrg-/?utm_medium=tumblr

[bollywoodheadline-blog]

Jaljala Bhojpuri Movie Actor | VijayKumar Interview for Date in Shooting

[narayan-giri]

Jaljala-thawang rolpa Nepal https://www.instagram.com/girinarayan123/p/BuOeT93hs9P/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=iw1k33hd1ave

[iamjeelanauthor]

Barsat Tufan Jaljala kabhi bol kar nahi ata shayad phir kyun koi ae nahi samajhta development kyun nahi kar rahe hai nadiyon ke taraf bada bada Dariyaoon ke taraf chota gauv valo ko suraksha kyun nahi kar rahe hai kya insaan ki jaan itni sasti mein milti hai 😞 😢

[shystoryrebel]

MY FATHER SAID…………

Once a Muslim family was enjoying boating in the deep sea. There were five family members in the family, husband, one wife, one daughter, one son and a blind and handicap brother of the husband. They were all very happy as due to religious restrictions such type of pleasure trips among Muslims were look down upon. The wife was irritated to see the blind brother in law accompanying them. She was treating him as kabab me haddi.

All of a sudden the boat was rattled by the fierce jaljala. All the family members thought that there end was near so they started praying. Listening to their prayer a farista appeared and spoke, “You people are sinner because you kill living lives in my name and defame me. So, to please your God you have to offer as a sacrifice of one person among yourselves.”

The wife was very pleased on this demand of sacrifice. She immediately advised her husband to throw his blind and handicap brother in the sea as a sacrifice. It will be doubly benefited. First the God will be happy and calm and second we would be relived of the burden of looking after this useless man. Husband did not pay any attention to his wife’s suggestion and threw his daughter in the sea, saying he had four more daughters from other wives. Moreover girls are a burden to us.

With this sacrifice the jaljala remained calm for some time. But again after some time the jaljalaresurfaced with doubly fury. All started shaking with fear and their color became yellow. Again a faristaappeared. He shouted that you have offered a girl to God and with this offering you have again angered the God as girls are the incarnation of goddess on earth, so they are very dear to God. You offer another scarify to please the God.

Listening these words, the young and beautiful wife again whispered to her husband to offer the blind and handicap brother as sacrifice. But again the tensed husband did not pay any attention to the whisperings of his wife and threw his son into the sea as sacrifice, saying that we had five more sons from other wives. More over we are young enough to manufacture many more sons and daughters.

With this sacrifice the jaljala was calmed. But after some time again the jaljala resurfaced with more fury. The petrified husband prayed. Again a farista appeared and said that you have again angered the God by sacrificing your infant son. Children are very innocent and most near and dear to God. So with this sacrifice of most dear and innocent creation of God, you have made God furious. You have to offer another sacrifice to please and calm God.

Again the terrified wife shouted at her husband that your brother is the real sinner. He has been punished by God by snatching his eyesight and crippling him. So throw him in the sea as sacrifice and save our lives. Again husband ignored his wife’s plea and threw his young and beautiful wife into the sea as sacrifice. The helpless wife asked that why was he throwing her in this cruel manner. The husband said remorselessly that he had already three more wives at home and moreover I could get another wife very easily by paying the small Maher.

After some shrill cries the body disappeared in the furious waves. But after some lull there was again a fierce jaljala. Again a farista appeared and his face seething with anger. He shouted at the surviving brothers that they were very perverted sinners as they had saved their lives and sacrificed helpless lives because you have many more wives, sons and daughters in your possession. So now sea God will devour you. If you voluntarily offer one among you, as a sacrifice, one among you can be saved.

On this the blind and handicap brother decided to offer himself as a sacrifice and save the life of his brother. He profusely thanked his brother for his love, care and affection before jumping into the sea. But before he could jump, the other hale and healthy brother jumped into the sea, praying to God to take care of his blind and handicap brother. He was looking at his blind brother with love and tear in eyes before drowning. Seeing the spirit of the dying brother for his blind and handicap brother, the God melted. God saved the life of the drowning brother and lifted him to the boat.

The God asked, why he offered himself as sacrifice, where as he had a crippled brother to offer. On this, the brother said that before his death his father asked to look after his blind and handicap brother till he died. So I was fulfilling my promise given to my dying father.

On this the God was very happy and brought back to life, his dead wife and children. God also restored the eyesight of the blind brother and made him physically healthy.

O Man! Love and respect to parents is the greatest service and highest prayer to God. Similarly compassion to weak is also a service to God. Yudhistra, the wisest man in Mahabharat, also said the same thing that the lap of mother is bigger than this universe and blessings of father are much higher than the sky.

[cosmeticnews]

9 Best Shampoo For Color Treated Hair 2020 Reviews And Guide  After a few washes though, the colour starts to fade and this puts so many people down. What some people forget is that they cannot give colored hair the same kind of treatment they give their un dyed hair. They use the same shampoos  for color treated hair as they do when they have normal looking hair. Colored hair dries up faster than non-color treated hair and needs more moisturising and strengthening ingredients found in shampoos, conditioners treatments and hair oil. It is therefore convenient to switch from your regular shampoo to one with a formulation for color treated hair. Shampoos for color treated hair are different from ordinary shampoos because they use potent ingredients that do not strip your hair of its colour. Using these products on your hair will not only prolong the beautiful hue on your head but they will give the hair its much needed strength and moisture After learning that a switch is the best way to go to take care of colour treated hair, then follows the next problem. Considering that there are many shampoos in the market specially formulated for colored hair, how do you know which is the BEST ORGANIC SHAMPOO FOR COLOURED HAIR, or any other shampoo good for color treated hair? In this article, we look at some of the best shampoos and hair conditioners formulated for color treated hair. All the products are available at affordable prices from amazon. [su_note note_color="#f7fde5"] Best Hair Straightener  Reviews How To Thicken Hair Naturally 5 Ways [/su_note] Best Drugstore Shampoo And Conditioner for Colour Treated hair Best overall - Olaplex No. 4 Bond Maintenance Shampoo [amazon box="B07D37PQGL" grid="1"] There is a good reason why Olaplex no. 4 is our best choice shampoo for color treated hair. Maybe one word will explain what we feel about this shampoo. ENIGMA. Yes, that is what it is. Olaplex No. 4 Bond Maintenance Shampoo is incomparable to many other shampoos in the market for color treated hair. It is a favourite with many hair stylists as well as people with color treated hair. Some people probably love the product because Olaplex is a company that creates quality products. However, the shampoo is much more than the company name. it revives compromised hair by taking care of the breakages. This is because the shampoo has a strong formulation of ingredients that protect your colored hair from any destructive damages. It makes the hair look healthier, softer, smoother, stronger and shinier. It gives the hue on your hair a vibrancy that you do not get from many other products. Known as the bonder, the shampoo does not only repair hair from the surface but penetrate deep into the roots taking care of all the damage. The shampoo hydrates the hair, thickens it and keeps the colours intact. It is also great for people with no colour on their hair. A tiny amount of the shampoo goes a long way to ensure that your tresses remain as colourful as they were the first time you dyed them and as strong as ever. It is oil free and parabens free. Though the shampoo is slightly more expensive than other color treated hair shampoos in the market, it is worth every penny. Best drugstore option - L’Oreal Paris Ever Strong Sulfate-Free Thickening Shampoo [amazon box="B01M0OX5NU" grid="1"] Dyed hair sometimes suffers breakages and thinning. If you are looking for the bet drugstore shampoo that will keep the hue in place while at the same time thickens your hair, then you should try the highly potent L’Oreal Paris Ever Strong Sulphate-Free Thickening Shampoo. The shampoo contains rosemary leaf that helps to fortify thin and fragile hair. From the first wash of your hair, the shampoo turns it into something it was not before. The hair gets stronger, softer, and thicker and smells great. The formulation is gentle on every fine hair and it contains no harsh chemicals like Sulfate, salts, parabens or surfactants, the lather from the shampoo feels lush and luxurious and the aroma is out of this world. Briogeo Don’t Despair, Repair Super Moisture Shampoo [amazon box="B078WZZW2J" grid="1"] Just like the name of the product says, you never have to despair when using this great drugstore shampoo if you have colour treated hair. The shampoo has a combination of quality ingredients that restore the elasticity and shine of the hair while maintaining the colour. Fortified with ESSENTIAL OILS and extracts that repair damaged hair, the shampoo also effectively removes chemical build up, oil and dirt from the hair leaving it clean, fresh, stronger, healthier, shinier and softer. The key ingredients in the shampoo are Panthenol, Algae Extract, Rosehip Oil, Coconut Oil, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Anti-Oxidants, Shea Butter and Biotin. The ingredients are rich in anti-oxidants, minerals, fatty acids and vitamins that nourish, moisturise, hydrate, repair and strengthen the hair. They also help to reduce hair brittleness that comes with over processing and dying. The ingredients help to deeply cleanse the hair and restore its elasticity. Besides color treated hair, the shampoo is also ideal for coarse hair, curly hair, fine hair, and normal hair, damaged and dry hair. Best for red hair - Pureology Reviving Red Shamp’Oil [amazon box="B00BBJV4NQ" grid="1"] One way of maintaining the vibrancy of your colour, treated hair is by using a unique shampoo specifically formulated for your kind of hair. Using Pureology Red Reviving Shampoo will not only give your hair vibrancy but it will also ensure that your hair colour treatment does not fade after a wash, no matter how many times you wash it. The shampoo has a unique combination of ingredients that offer four times the strength of an ordinary shampoo to replenish and protect the lipid layer while at the same time sealing the cuticles. It has a triple action formulation that consists Of Jaljala Oil, Sunflower Seed Oil, Tomato Extract, Sesame Seed Oil, Sunflower Seed Extract, Propylene Glycol and many others. It also has a rich aromatherapy blend of Black Currant, Bergamot, Rose, Mandarin, Musk and Basil that leave your hair smelling fresh and heavenly. It is Sulfate free and 100% vegan. Majority of the people with copper red hair sad that the shampoo gives them more vibrant and shiny hair. If you have damaged hair, look no further. Davine’s Ol Shampoo [amazon box="B00ZPQ129C" grid="1"] Davine’s ol shampoo is a gentle shampoo that softens and adds volume to the hair while retaining its colour treatment. The potent shampoo has a blend of powerful ingredients that blend together to nourish, moisturise, and hydrate the hair leaving it shiny, strongest, healthier and manageable. It contains Roucou Oil, an Amazonian extract derived from the Archiote fruit. It is also very rich in beta-carotene, which helps with the stimulation of melanin synthesis that helps to maintain the hairs natural pigmentation. The ellagic acid contained in tie shampoo helps to neutralise any free radicals attacking the hair thus giving it protection against any damage caused by exposure to UV. The shampoo has an amazing smell and it’s free from parabens and Sulfate. If you want to get rid of the frizzy colored hair, get yourself a bottle of Davine’s ol shampoo. Redken Color Extend Shampoo [amazon box="B002WTC3AW" grid="1"] Redken products are easily available and fairly affordable. In almost every hair salon you visit, you will find out that the stylist most probably has Redken products on the shelf. The reason is because Redken is one of the best shampoos for red hair and every other color treated hair. It has a salon-grade preservation that makes it a favourite with the stylists. Formulated with rich ingredients, the Colour Extend Shampoo protects your hair colour from fading. The interlocking protein network in the formulation of the shampoo extends the life of the colour and protects the hair from UV rays. Some of the most notable ingredients that make the shampoo a must use for red color treated hair are Silicone, Ceramide, Blockers and UV filters. Ceramide helps to strengthen the hair, blockers give the colour on your hair stability, silicone promotes the colour vibrancy and the UV filters give the hair an anti-fade protection. The shampoo is good for both men and women, for best result, use the Redken Extend Conditioner. Oribe Shampoo For Beautiful Color [amazon box="B00203MP9E" grid="1"] If you are looking for the best shampoo to extend the beautiful hue of your hair, then you should try Oribe Shampoo For Beautiful Colour. It is an ultra-gentle cleanser that will effectively extend the life of your ultra-beautiful hair color. Formulated with high tech ingredients, the shampoo gives your hair an extra brightness and a “satisfied” dye life. The ingredients in the formulation target all the damaged areas of your hair and scalp giving them an intense moisture treatment that protects the color from any damaging elements from the environment and the sun. The shampoo also fortifies chemically treated hair and over processed hair. The shampoo is parabens free, and free from sodium chloride. It contains UV protection for hair and it is keratin and colour safe. One of the most notable ingredients that give the shampoo its potency are an Oribe Signature Complex of Lychee, Watermelon and Edelweiss Flower Extracts. This combination helps to defend the colored hair from photo aging, oxidative stress, and keratin deterioration. It also helps to protect the hair from drying and any damages that deplete the colour from the effects of the sun and environment elements. Other ingredients are Baobab Tree Extract, Bioflavonoids, Kaempferia Galangal Root Extract, and a multi-layered UV protection. For best results use the shampoo with Oribe Conditioner For Beautiful Hair, Oribe Split End Seal, a serum that fortifies, restores and preserves your beautiful color tresses and add more glamour by finishing up the beautiful look with Oribe Lip Lust Crème Lipstick. BIOLAGE Colorlast Shampoo [amazon box="B00ILBUEVK" grid="1"] Many that colour their hair know that it loses its lustre with time. However, you can prevent this from happening by using a quality shampoo that will retain the colour after every wash. BIOLAGE Colorlast shampoo is a professional hair treatment that nourishes and protects your hair from the sun and environmental damages. it strengthens and hydrates the hair leaving it smoother, shinier and with the colour intact. The shampoo contains a fade defying c compound that helps to maintain the colour tone, shine and depth of colour treated hair. The hair protecting compounds give your hair a luscious beautiful no colour fade for 9 weeks. The shampoo has a low pH that helps to prolong the colour vibrancy and it I parabens free. It cleanses the hair and scalp gently without stripping off the colour. Forget about these other shampoos that will make your hair look dull and dehydrated and try this product today. It will not disappoint. Pureology Hydrate Shampoo [amazon box="B0746VVWX5" grid="1"] Pureology hydrate shampoo is an award winning shampoo with a gentle and moisturing effects to any color treated hair. The shampoo is also gentle enough for dry hair and many other hair types. The shampoo contains ingredients like green tea, jojoba and sage along with oat soy and wheat that help to replenish and strengthen the hair. It repairs, rebuilds and protects the colour vibrancy leaving you with hair you will be proud of. The shampoo also has a great scent form the signature aromatherapy blend of bergamot, ylang and patchouli. All the ingredients are natural and the shampoo is Sulfate free, the packaging is also post-consumer recycled. What to expect from the best shampoo for color treated hair The best shampoos for color treated here should perform the following functions effectively Extend the life of the colour on your hair Nourish Moisturise Hydrate Improve the hair health Not leave any residues on the hair Not add any color to the existing color treatment on the hair Not cause the colour treatment to bleed Should have great reviews Should be affordable and easily available Not contain any artificial chemicals and alcohol based chemicals Tips on how to protect you color treated hair Dyed hair gets weaker if you do not take care of it properly. This is because the dye penetrates the hair follicles and in between the hair strands. Compromising the hair cuticle with the dyes then the healthy hair pigments escape. Besides the dye, other factors that aggravate the weakness are regular washing, UV exposure and heat. You therefore need to come up with ingredients that will keep your hair fresh and the dye intact so you do not look dull. You also have to take care of the free radicals that attack the hair on a daily basis. The free radicals are things like small elements and molecules that find their way into your hair this compromising the cuticle. The above is the main reason why it is important to choose a color preserving shampoo that has quality products to protect your hair against the free radicals and other environmental elements. Besides using a quality color preserving shampoo, you can also try other methods to extend the colour on your hair and to strengthen the hair as well. the following tips, we hope will help you. Wash your hair less often Some people assume that washing the hair as many times as you possibly can is one of the best ways to keep it healthy and hydrated. On the contrary, frequent washing of the hair fades out the color. Sometimes washing the hair too much rids it of some nutrients too. Unless you sweat too much and you need to feel clean and fresh always. Then there is no reason to wash your hair so many times. Once or twice, a week is enough time to leave you feeling clean and fresh as well as avoid a color fade. Get a professional to dye your hair Dying your own hair may save you costs and time spent going to a professional. It is even easier because you can get many of the dyes at your nearest beauty shop or supermarket. However, you have to be an expert to dye your own hair otherwise you may spoil your hair. A professional colourist knows about the dyes and the colour treatments more than you do. Majority of the salon dyes are permanent and the professionals know the right balance. Supermarket dyes are semi-permanent and you may not know the correct balance to use on your hair. Before you start weighing the benefits of going to a salon or having DIY session, think of the harm, you may bring to your hair Protect your hair against UV rays and other climate changes Color treated hair fades faster when exposed to the UV rays of the sun. rains and wind could also change the hue. If you are going outside during extreme temperature changes, protect your hair by wearing something on the head, you could tie a scarf or put on a hat or a cap. If you feel that wearing a hat or a scarf may might spoil your overall look, then wear a live-in conditioner to protect the hair against UV. If you go swimming, do not let your hair come into contact with chlorinated water. Do not use shampoos with alcohol Alcohol based products dry up the hair fast, compromising the cuticle. This is so especially if you are an outdoors person that spends a lot of time in the sun. look out for shampoos and other products that are free from alcohol to protect both the hair and the dye. Wrapping it up You do not have to worry about your colour treated hair losing its beautiful hue if you use the above products. They not only maintain the colour but they also ensure that your hair stays strong, healthy and well nourished. Use the above shampoos with the right conditioners and treatments and your dyed hair will not thin out or look dull. They have specifically formulated formulas that will make you rock your hair with pride. All the products are available at amazon. We hope the above article was of help to you and if you have any comments or you want to ask anything, you do can do on the comment section. read other articles on various beauty, hair and skin products from our website. Read Next: Best Purple Shampoo | Best Shampoo for Blonde Hair Best shampoo for colored hair on Amazon: [amazon bestseller="Best shampoo for colored hair"] Bài viết đã xuất hiện lần đầu tiên tại https://www.cosmeticnews.com/best-shampoo-for-colored-hair/?feed_id=2308&_unique_id=5e7e926a69efe #cosmeticnews #janebrody #haircare #makeup #skincare #skinconcern #beautydevices

[brlog]

17.

Destinacija: Dolpo. Ova mistična i izolirana regija na Himalaji do kraja 18. stoljeća pripadala je Tibetu, a i danas, iako formalno pod Nepalom, zbog prometne nepristupačnosti ostala je gotovo zarobljena u vremenu; većina stanovnika i dalje govori tibetanski, a religija koja se prakticira je Bon, peta škola tibetanskog budizma. Sve do 1974. godine regija je bila zatvorena za turiste zbog sumnji da se tu skrivaju tibetanski Khampe - pobunjenici koji se bore za slobodni Tibet. Nepal je 1956. priznao Tibet kao dio Kine, a 1960. potpisao o sporazum o miru i prijateljstvu s Kinom, pa im je itekako bilo u interesu držat stvari pod kontrolom, posebno u osjetljivim graničnim područjima. Zbog svega ovoga, Dolpo je danas tzv. restricted area, koju se smije posjetit isključivo s dozvolom te uz vodstvo licenciranog nepalskog vodiča. Popularnost među zapadnim turistima je stekao nakon knjige ‘The Snow Leopard’ Petera Matthiessena iz 1978. i filma ‘Himalaya’ Érica Vallija koji je 1999. bio nominiran za Oscara, ali je unatoč tome i dalje jedna od najrjeđe posjećenih treking destinacija na Himalaji. Zašto? Jer je skupo ić s agencijom, jer je komplicirano organizirat trek sam, jer je fizički i psihički zahtjevno.

Do Dolpa se može doć na dva načina: avionom preko Juphala direktno (skupo!) ili pješke - uzduž himalajskog masiva zapadno od Benija, preko lovačkog rezervata Dhorpatana, pa sjeverno preko Himalaja. Kako nemamo baš dolara na bacanje, ali vremena za hodanje imamo, izabrali smo naravno potonje. Ova naša mala putešestvija trajala je sve skupa 21 dan, tako da sam je podijelila u dva dijela: trek do Dolpa, i trek po Dolpu. Pa da počnemo:

Dan 1

Krenuli smo iz Pokhare 28.5. prvim jutarnjim busom prema Muni. Pršanjavih 111 km prelazili smo nekih 5 sati, uz povremeno mijenjanje autobusa na mjestima gdje je trebalo preć rijeku, jer su tamo postojali samo viseći čelični pješački mostovi - isti oni kakve smo viđali iznad sebe raftajući po Karnaliju. Naši jadni ruksaci koji su se cijelo vrijeme vozili na krovu autobusa, nakon ove vožnje izgledali su ko da su prošli kroz pješčanu oluju, a ni mi koji smo sjedili unutra nismo bili pošteđeni fine prašine koja se u suradnji s obilnim znojenjem ubrzo zacementirala na našoj koži. Muna je zasad zadnja točka dokle se može doć autobusom, jer dalje cesta nije izgrađena. Kad kažem cesta, mislim na grubi kameni zastor koji će možda jednog dana postat makadam, a u nekoj dalekoj budućnosti se možda čak i asfaltira! Od Mune (+1943 mnv) nas je čekalo još 2 sata laganog hoda do Lumsunga (+2150 mnv), malog sela na obronku planine. Za prvi dan laganini! Ipak, sjećam se neugodnog osjećaja u želucu kad smo izašli iz autobusa, osjećala sam takvu nervozu… nesigurna u sebe i vlastite sposobnosti, s obzirom da se nikad nisam upustila u nikakav slični podhvat. Ruksak mi teži 20 kg, i ne mogu si psihički predočit da ću ga morat nosit svaki dan, cijeli dan, iduća tri tjedna. Štapovima za hodanje unatoč, i dalje osjećam bol u koljenima, jer već godinama patim od artroze… i pitam se koliko je ovo sve pametno. No dobro, sad nema povratka! Tojest ima, jer platili smo skupo osiguranje koje uključuje evakuaciju helikopterom iz Himalaja (da, extra stavka, i ne baš jeftina), i još uvijek se tješim mogućnošću da, ako mi bude preteško, u prvom selu uzmemo portera (jeftinija varijanta) ili mulu (skuplja varijanta). Ali krenuli smo! Oblačno je ali lijepo, još uvijek smo nisko i okruženi smo zelenim obroncima sa svih strana. Naš guide Lal riješio nam je da prvu noć spavamo u homestayu, u drvenom potkrovlju, šta je izvrsna tranzicija između civilizacije u kojoj smo bili zadnjih tjedan dana, i divljine u koju se tek spremamo ić. Iskoristili smo prigodu da se otuširamo polijevajući se ledenom vodom, koja je do kuće bila dovedena šlaufom iz obližnjeg potoka. Na ovakav luksuz nećemo još dugo nabasat!

Slika 1: Luka i Lal spremaju našu prtljagu na krov autobusa u Pokhari

Slika 2: Radovi na cesti - ovu dionicu smo prohodali

Slika 3: Ništa strojevi, samo ručni rad!

Slika 4: Počelo je! Uspon do Lumsunga

Slika 5: Na brdu prekoputa, bager probija novu cestu

Dan 2

Samo dva sata hodanja jučer su nas ubila, od opterećenja i trenja ruksaka počeli smo dobivat rane na kukovima i iznad guzice. Nismo se još baš ušemili u cijelu priču i ujutro smo tromi, treba nam sto godina da se složimo, spakiramo, pojedemo i budemo spremni za pokret. Danjeg svjetla ima do 6 popodne pa ćemo se ubuduće morat ustajat ranije, oko 6 ujutro, da bi već oko 8 krenuli hodat. Pred nama je naporan dan - 1200m čistog uspona, bez stajanja, po terenu gdje se izmjenjuju kamenjar, obrađena polja koja me neumoljivo podsjećaju na sjeverni Vijetnam, i guste šume rododendrona koji je upravo u cvatu. Naš guide je rodom iz ovog kraja, njegovo selo Gurjakhani je udaljeno 10-ak km zračne linije odavde, a poznato je po lovu na psihodelični med. Gigantske pčele na velikim nadmorskim visinama oprašuju cvijet rododendrona koji u sebi sadrži kemikaliju grayanotoxin, zaslužnu za halucinogena svojstva ovog divljeg meda. Naravno da ga želimo nabavit i probat, Lal nam kaže da možda uspijemo nešto riješit po tom pitanju kad završimo s trekom :)

Slika 6: Terasasti uzgoj

Slika 7: Nadrealna šuma rododendrona

Slika 8: Luka i rododendroni u cvatu

Nakon 6 sati pentranja, iscrpljeni i gladni prelazimo naš prvi prijevoj Jaljala (+3365 mnv) i stižemo na proplanak u alpskom stilu. Tu nas čeka stado divljih konja, i jedna kamena koliba - sezonska gostiona za putnike namjernike. Sa sjevera nas kroz oblake sramežljivo gleda Dhaulagiri Himal, 120 km dugačak planinski lanac kojeg ćemo idućih tjedan dana zaobilazit da bi došli u Dolpo. Jedan od njegovih vrhova, Dhaulagiri I, je sa svojih 8167 metara sedmi najviši vrh na svijetu. Nažalost, vrijeme je preoblačno da bismo ove impoznatne gromade uspjeli sagledat u svoj njihovoj ljepoti, ali bit će za to još prigoda narednih dana.

Lal je riješio da za ručak dobijemo instant noodle, a za večeru - a šta drugo nego dal bhat. Uz rub livade, pokraj potoka, podigli smo naš lijepi novi brlog - mali narančasti šator koji smo kupili u Kathmanduu. Šator ima samo 2 kg i zbilja je minijaturan, tako da smještaj dvije osobe i dva velika ruksaka predstavlja izazov; do kraja treka ćemo se već ispraksirat u tom tetrisu!

Slika 9: Konji pasu na lower Jaljala

Slika 10: Unutrašnjost bhattija. Kuhaju se instant noodli

Slika 11: Pastir i njegovo stado u prolazu. U pozadini naš brlog :)

Slika 12: Gazda od bhattija s ukočenim vratom

Dan 3

Bilo je pitanje vremena kad će se neko od nas dvoje razbolit. Ja sam kronični sinusni bolesnik pa je red da prva obavim tu dužnost. Fala bogu lijekova nam ne fali, i tako počinjem udarat po Doksiciklinu. I gazda gostione je bolestan - ukočen mu je vrat, i tu Luka nastupa kao druid pa mu masira vrat deep heatom kojeg smo kupili u Vijetnamu. Kremu smo mu ostavili jer imamo još par sličnih, i krećemo dalje. Sad samo nizbrdo uz korito rijeke Uttar Ganga do Dhorpatana, sela smještenog na najvećoj visoravni na Himalaji. Opet je oblačno i maglovito a nije ni čudo, jer je kraj svibnja i monsunska sezona je pred vratima. Prvo naselje kroz koje smo prošli je Gurjakhat, gdje smo na naše veliko čuđenje ugledali - motor! Do dhorpatanske doline se naime može doć i jeepom iz Baglunga, šta me na trenutak obradovalo jer to znači da još uvijek imam šansu odustat od ove avanture ako zaključim da mi je preteško. Uskoro smo stigli do ogromnog proplanka omeđenog borovom šumom, konji pasu posvuda, sunčano je, idila. 

Slika 13: Pratimo rijeku Uttar Gangu

Slika 14: Iako je oblačno, lijepo je

Slika 15: Prešli smo bezbroj ovakvih ‘mostova’

Slika 16: Dhorpatan valley, raj za konje

Slika 17: Dhorpatan, ziđa se. Ova nonica nosi više nego Luka i ja zajedno!

Oko 4 popodne eto nas u Dhorpatanu i tu sad treba obavit formalnosti s organima reda - pokazat dozvole za treking i platit upad u lovački rezervat. Ovo sve je potrajalo pa se žurimo dalje, da stignemo prije mraka. Da nas malo ubrza, počela je padat i kiša, i tako se sad ogrnuti kabanicama penjemo nekih 200 m do Bhujekhunga (+3103 mnv), zaseoka s dvije kuće, od kojih je jedna gostiona. Iako dan nije bio ni približno naporan kao jučerašnji, mrtvi smo umorni i pokisli i rado bismo izbjegli podizanje šatora. Lal je pitao možemo li spavat u gostioni ali avaj! Nemaju dovoljno mjesta za sve nas. Kako, šta, zašto? Radi se naime o slijedećem fenomenu:

Svake godine u svibnju i lipnju, horde Nepalaca napuštaju svoje domove, poslove, škole, spakiraju prnje i krenu u Himalaju okušat sreću u lovu na yarsagumbu; to je parazitska gljiva koja napada larvu moljca, klija u njoj, ubije je i mumificira te joj potom naraste iz glave - ne velika, samo par centimetara. Raste na Himalaji na nadmorskim visinama između 3500 i 5000 metara, odakle se otprema ponajviše u Kinu, koja je najveći konzument ove čudne gljive. Yarsa se konzumira osušena i samljevena, a uz mnoge druge zdravstvene dobrobiti koje joj se pripisuju navodno i pojačava libido, zbog čega je zovu još i ‘himalajska viagra’. U Kini jedan kilogram trenutno doseže cijenu od 110.000$ pa onda nije teško zamislit zašto tisuće ljudi biraju provest po mjesec dana kampirajući tu po planini, klečući i čeprkajući po vlažnoj travi u nadi da će iskopat koju gljivu i malo si popravit financijsku situaciju. Nepalski gold rush!

Nama s jedne strane super, jer to znači pod a) da ćemo svjedočit jedinstvenom kulturnom fenomenu, i pod b) da će svugdje na našem putu postojat bhatti - sezonski šatori - gostione i prenoćišta za ove diggere, gdje mi možemo pojest dal bhat. S druge strane, to znači i da je cijena istog tog dal bhata skočila u nebo, kao i da za nas nema mjesta za spavanje i da se moramo snać. To nas puno ne dira jer nam je ionako draže stiskat se u našem malom šatoru nego u bhattiju na tepihu koji smrdi po neopranim nogama.

U blizini kuće nalazi se jedna mala napuštena kamena štala, i Luka i ja smo odlučili složit si unutra brlog. Imamo krov nad glavom, zapalili smo vatru, kuha se juhica. Može li bolje? Može! Samo desetak metara od kućice nalazi se izvor, lijepo uređen i ograđen kamenjem tako da čovjek može doć i sjest, i komotno oprat šta god treba (zube, noge, suđe). Sapienti sat.

Slika 18: U našem malom brlogu u Bhujekhungu

Slika 19: Ispred brloga

Slika 20: Praktični izvor pokraj kućice

Slika 21: Gazda od bhattija se sunča, a žena radi. Sve je isto kao kod nas

Dan 4

Za doručak chapati (pogača) i kajgana, ne tako loš obrok u usporedbi s dal bhatom koji mi već izlazi na uši, ali kako ulazimo dublje u planine, tako jaja postaju sve skuplja i skuplja i uskoro će nam postat pravi luksuz. Nije da ne bi rađe jeli zobenu kašu, ali nje imamo u ograničenim količinama i čuvamo je za prigode kad neće bit nikakve gostione u blizini i morat ćemo se oslanjat isključivo na vlastite zalihe hrane.

Pred nama je skoro 1000 metara uspona do prijevoja Phalgune Dhuri (+4067 mnv), i već vidim da će dan bit dug. Usput srećemo neke klince koji skakuću s kamena na kamen, bez tereta na leđima, zatim mlade Yarsaše koji neopterećeno jašu na svojim mulama (jedan od njih me upitao: Can you?, vidjevši valjda dobru prigodu da nam iznajmi koju mulu i zaradi kintu, na šta sam ja spremno odgovorila: Yes we can! Ne znam jesam li ga uspila uvjerit - sebe skoro pa jesam). Sreli smo i čitavu šesteročlanu familiju koja, skupa sa svojim bivolima, isto ide u lov na yarsu. Uskoro prelazimo granicu rasta drveća i pred nama je samo kamena pustinja i tek pokoja travka. Na prvu je očaravajuće, ima nešto privlačnog u tom ambijentu lišenom intenzivnih vizualnih podražaja. Ipak, mislim da bi me dugoročni boravak na ovakvom mjestu bacio u težu depru. Najveći problem je kad mi se pripiša da nemam di to obavit diskretno, nema stabla, žbuna ili kamena iza kojeg bi se sakrila, a planina vrvi ljudima (upravo zbog ovog Lonely Planet sugerira curama da na trek obuku - suknju).

Slika 22: Luka i Lal na usponu za Phalgune Dhuri

Slika 23: Prati nas familija Yarsaša

Slika 24: Uskoro su nas i sustigli

Slika 25: Mlado govedo bivola je premlado za hodanje pa ga gazda nosi u košari

Slika 26: Malo pomalo smo ostali bez stabala

Slika 27: Tužni Luka je tužan. Možda mu fale stabla?

Slika 28: Vrijeme je za marendu

Slika 29:  White-capped water redstart - jedini wildlife zasad

Na vjetrovitom prijevoju pojeli smo marendu i krenuli se spuštat. Do Thankura, gdje ćemo provest noć, ima malo manje od 800 metara nizbrdo. Na papiru zvuči super, ali ko god je ikad imao problema s koljenima, zna koliko su nizbrdice naporne. Čim smo krenuli, pojavila su se opet stabla rododendrona a s njima se i moje raspoloženje popravilo. Predvečer smo stigli u Thankur (+3190 mnv), predivnu zelenu dolinu sa svih strana okruženu planinskim vrhovima i borovom šumom. U dolini se nalaze 3 kamene kuće, naravno sve dupkom pune Yarsaša, a po rubu teče rijeka Sai Khola optočena mahovinom pokraj koje smo digli šator, taman kad je krenula padat kišica. Spavat je bilo divno, iako ledeno i vlažno.

Slika 30: Mule marendavaju na maglovitom prijevoju Phalgune Dhuri

Slika 31: Rododendroni

Slika 32: Idilična dolina Thankur

Slika 33: Naš brlog

Slika 34: Mistična rijeka Sai Khola

Slika 35: Gusta okolna šuma

Slika 36: Kuha se u bhattiju, nigdje dimnjaka

Dan 5

Dok smo pakirali prnje i sušili šator na prvim zrakama sunca, društvo nam je pravio znatiželjni dječak sa svojim malim janjetom. Kao i svako dosad, jutro je lijepo i sunčano, a za pretpostavit je da će se do navečer navuć oblaci. Počeli smo s laganim spuštanjem do pitoreskne rijeke Ghasdung Khole, nakon kojeg nas je čekao uspon od 440m, i to većinom uređenim stazama sa stepenicama koje su izgrađene da lovcima (uglavnom Rusima) olakšaju kretanje rezervatom. Tu i tamo pokraj staze naiđemo i na jednostavno drveno sklonište. Životinje koje obitavaju u ovim krajevima su himalajski tahr (divokoza), crni medo, crvena panda, himalajski bharal (blue sheep) i samozatajni snježni leopard koji je ugrožena vrsta i zabranjeno ga je lovit (makar realno, šanse da ga netko opazi u prirodi su ravne nuli). Nismo vidili nijednu od ovih životinja, ali smo zato prošli pokraj mnogih polja marihuane, finog himalajskog skanka koji se uzgaja tu bogu iza nogu, daleko od nepoželjnih očiju. 

Slika 37: Sušenje šatora na jutarnjem suncu

Slika 38: Klinac i mlada janjetina

Slika 39: Surovi vrhovi

Slika 40: Luka i rijeka Ghasdung Khola

Slika 41: Polja marihuane

Na kraju uspona, u malom seocetu Kayam (+2890 mnv) smo ručali instant noodle i potom krenuli dalje nizbrdo na drugu stranu. Prvi dio puta nas je pratilo troje klinaca iz Kayama koji su išli u susjedno selo prespavat da bi sutra ujutro mogli ić na misu. Misu! Znači u ovoj vukojebini postoji ni manje ni više nego - crkva. Skromna doduše, ali svejedno je impresivno da je kršćanstvo doprijelo ovako duboko u Himalaju. Nakon crkve uslijedilo je novo iznenađenje - dalekovodi!. Dakle ima i struje. Malu hidroelektranu nažalost nismo vidjeli jer nas je put odveo na drugu stranu u Tatopani (+2397 mnv), zaseok s par kamenih kuća. Tatopani u doslovnom prijevodu s nepalskog znači topla voda, a ime je dobilo po izvorima vruće vode kojih u okolici ima nekoliko. Na izvorima je sve krcato Yarsašima koji peru sebe i odjeću, i mi jedva čekamo da i na nas dođe red. Situacija je nezgodna jer sam cura i očekuje se da budem čedna pa se moram zamotat u sarong i tako prat. Nije to neko temeljito pranje (mislim, teško se oprat dok si ODJEVEN), ali bolje išta nego ništa - nakon 5 dana prašinarenja!

Yarsaši imaju svoje DIY šatore - lučna konstrukcija od bambusa i pokrov od cerade, pa tako ovog puta za nas ima mjesta da spavamo u kući, ali nije to ništa fancy, samo smrdljivi tepih na zemljanom podu. Iako preferiramo svoj mali narančasti brlog, ponekad nam ipak dobro dođe da uštedimo tih sat i po vremena koliko bi potrošili na sastavljanje i rastavljanje šatora.

Slika 42: Strmi obronci prema Tatopaniju

Slika 43: Pogled na Tatopani s brda

Dan 6

Pred nama je dug dan - u dogovoru s guideom smo spojili dva dana hodanja u jedan, da bi malo uštedili na vremenu i priuštili si dan odmora nekad kasnije na treku. To znači da smo se ustali rano i krenuli rano, ne bi li stigli na odredište prije mraka. Oblačno je, maglovito i hladno, a nas čeka 1500 metara uspona. Danas ima nenormalno puno Yarsaša po putu, posvuda su i ostavljaju smeće iza sebe, uglavnom ambalažu od instant noodli i Red Yaka - kineske kopije Red Bulla. Ponešto od toga kupimo sa sobom, ali to je već izgubljena bitka, jer njih je previše i njihovog smeća je previše, a mi imamo ograničene kapacitete u ruksacima. Tužno, uz toliko diskusije o tome koliko je treking uopće environmental - friendly, da su najveći zagađivači upravo lokalci. Po pitanju smeća, sve je isto ko u Vijetnamu, ako ne i gore.

Putem smo prošli kroz selo u kojem smo vidili nekoliko kuća s ravnim krovovima, što je uvjerljivi znak da se približavamo Dolpi, gdje je ravni krov pravilo, a ne iznimka (ovaj podatak sam saznala iz Snow leoparda, kojeg smo kupili u Kathmanduu i sad ga na treku čitam). Ručali smo instant noodle u bhattiju u selu Dhule (+3340 mnv) i brzo krenuli dalje da nas ne uhvati mrak. Uskoro smo se opet popeli u zonu bez drveća, u kojoj ćemo ostat nekoliko dana. Počela je kišica a mi smo sve sporiji i sporiji, gladni smo i iscrpljeni. Hodamo u formaciji: Lal na početku, i u pravilu puno brži od nas jer ima manji ruksak, onda ja, i iza mene Luka koji povremeno ronza jer sam prespora, ali uglavnom me bodri da nastavim dalje. Naše odredište je Phudal Phedi (+3899 mnv), mali plac za kampiranje pokraj rijeke Sen Khole, na koji smo došli po debelom mraku. Nabrzaka smo digli šatore i skuhali večeru te se brže bolje spremili za spavanjac. Ovu noć sam provela u vreći za spavanje obučena u doslovno SVU odjeću koju sam imala sa sobom, toliko je hladno bilo.

Slika 44: Ravni krovovi koriste se kao spremišta i mjesta za druženje

Slika 45: Himalajski stil košnica

Slika 46: Riskantan prijelaz mostića na mjestu di se staza urušila

Slika 47: Staza prema Sen Kholi

Slika 48: Usamljeni planinar

Slika 49: Rijeka Sen Khola u pustom ali impresivnom pejzažu

Slika 50: Sušenje suđa na zubatom jutarnjem suncu

Dan 7

Spavali smo malo duže, probudili se tek u 7, ali ni to nije pomoglo da se danas osjećamo odmorno. Iz kampa smo krenuli kasno i vucaramo se, mene boli kičma pa sam na brufenima, a sad već hodamo na visinama preko 4000 metara i zrak je rijeđi i samim time nam je sve teže. Jedna od stvari koje me muče je strah od visinske bolesti - o njoj smo pročitali puno i poduzimamo sve mjere opreza: jedemo puno ugljikohidrata i češnjaka, ne pijemo alkohol i ne spavamo na visinskim razlikama većima od 500 metara u odnosu na prethodnu noć. Imamo i tablete Diamoxa spremne ako zatreba. Ali opet, jednom hipohondru poput mene teško je ne trtarit.

Malo prije nego ćemo preć prijevoj Panidal La (+4502 mnv) naišli smo na veliki šareni kamp Yarsaša i dobili priliku vidit uživo kako izgleda ta famozna gljiva: mala, narančasta, ništa posebno. U kampu postoji par ljudi koji otkupljuju yarsagumbu od tragača i onda je na licu mjesta četkaju i razvrstavaju po veličini. Ovi ljudi vjerojatno spavaju na smjene i čuvaju svoje blago, jer je prošlih godina u kampovima znalo bit slučajeva krađe, pa čak i ubojstva. Na kojem god kraju svijeta se nalazili, pohlepa od ljudi uvijek napravi čudovišta.

Slika 51: Kostoberina - strvinar na visini zadatka

Slika 52: Šareni kamp Yarsaša

Slika 53: Yarsagumba se suši i razvrstava po veličini

Slika 54: Pustoš i magla

Prijevoj je točkasto prekriven snijegom, puše i ledeno je. Gdje nema snijega, tu je osušena kratka žuta trava. Nakon brzinskog ručka na vjetrometini krenuli smo dalje, prvo 500 metara nizbrdo, a onda 300 metara uzbrdo, da bi u podnožju brda ispred sebe ugledali ni manje ni više nego - vrtuljak! Iscrpljenom i gladnom čovjeku ovo možda izgleda kao halucinacija, ali vrtuljak je zbilja tu, metalni i zarđali. Izgleda kao da se već neko vrijeme ne koristi, a guide nam je reko da su ga tu rastavljenog, na mulama, dofurali za Yarsaše, koji jednom kad nađu koju gljivu i zarade pare, žele te pare i potrošit, malo se zabavit. Nadrealno ili ne, pitanje je hoće li itko ikad rastavit taj vrtuljak i odnit ga ća, ili će samo poslužit kao baza za bacanje drugog otpada.

Slika 55: Nadrealni prijevoj Panidal La

Slika 56: Spust prema rijeci Saure Kholi

Slika 57: Vrtuljak na +4000 mnv

Slika 58: Yarsaši odmaraju na zidiću

Slika 59: Pogled u beskraj

Oko 6 i po navečer stigli smo napokon na Purbang (+4309 mnv) gdje nas je dočekao ogromni kamp Yarsaša. Sve je puno konja koji okolo slobodno trče i pasu, mladi dečki igraju odbojku na improviziranom terenu... imaju čak i policijski šator! Policija je tu da se brine za red i mir, da ne bi bilo krađa i svađa. Koliko god mi je draže kampirat na miru i osami, ovo ipak izgleda fora, i svi ti šareni šatori daju dozu šarma dramatičnoj podlozi golih snježnih vrhova. I dalje je ledeno pa vrijeme izvan šatora provodimo koliko je minimalno moguće, i idemo spavat odma nakon večere.

Slika 60: Kamp yarsaša na Purbangu

Slika 61: Zaljubljene mule

Slika 62: Odbojka u kampu

Slika 63: Dileri yarsagumbe

Slika 64: Jutarnja romantika ispred brloga na +4309 mnv 

Dan 8

Na naše veliko iznenađenje, ujutro su se Yarsaši počeli pakirat, rastavljat šatore i ić ća! Kaže Lal da su tu mjesec dana i to je to, gotovo, odlaze. Odlazimo i mi, danas je dan D - napokon ulazimo u Dolpo. Nakon 200 metara laganog uspona dolazimo do prijevoja Jangla Bhanjyang (+4513 mnv), ulaza u Dolpo, iza kojeg se lagano spuštamo prvo kroz plitki snijeg, a potom kroz nisku travu i kamenjar. Hodanje nizbrdo ne čini dobro mojim koljenima, ali sam sretna jer znam da je sutra dan za odmor, kojeg sad već debelo priželjkujemo. 

Slika 65: Rastavljanje DIY šatora - konstrukcija od bambusa i kineska cerada

Slika 66: Ovako se pakiraju Yarsaši

Slika 67: Luki se ova stijena posebno svidila. Stari pokvarenjak!

Slika 68: Iza prijevoja Jangla Bhanjyang snijeg, kao dobrodošlica u Dolpo

Slika 69: The sound of music, Himalayan style

Slika 70: Pastirska kućica usred ničega

Slika 71: Naočiti konj

U popodnevnim satima stižemo u Sahartaru (+2884 mnv), prvo konkretnije naselje na našem treku - ima školu, dućan, ured državne uprave. Ali nema žive duše! Naravno, svi su išli u yarsu. Dolpo se nalazi u sjeni Himalaja pa monsumski oblaci nikad ne pređu sjeverno od visokih vrhova Dhaulagirija; ambijent je dosta pustinjski, postapokalptičan, krajolik je suh i gol, a kuće ravnih krovova ožbukane blatom podsjećaju me na moju mladenačku viziju Nevidljivih gradova Itala Calvina. U jednoj od takvih kuća Lal nam je uspio ispregovarat smještaj i hranu, kod nekih nonića koji se uopće ne bave ugostiteljstvom, a valjda su prestari za ić u yarsu pa im nije mrsko zaradit koju kintu ovako. Smjestili su nas u sobicu na najgornjem katu kuće - to je prirodni poredak, jer prizemlje je rezervirano za štale i za wc, a oni žive na 1. katu. Do gore se penje ljestvama koje su izrezbarene u deblu, i sama radnja nije toliko teška, koliko nepraktična kad recimo usred noći moraš na wc. Nekoliko puta. Ali s terase se zato pruža divan pogled na planinu prekoputa i naselja slična ovom na njenim padinama.

Čim smo došli, prva stvar koja nam je bila na pameti je - pranje. U selu postoji jedno jedino mjesto gdje se čovjek može oprat, a to je wc u državnom uredu, gdje su šlaufom doveli vodu s izvora i instalirali pravu pravcatu špinu. Kako su državni službenici otišli u yarsu, tako smo mi slobodni otić tamo i na miru se oprat, goli golcati. Dobar osjećaj! Da svečano obilježimo ulazak u Dolpo i kraj prve etape našeg treka, a i rođendan moje mame koja je sad 6000 km daleko od mene, pokušali smo nabavit pivo (sad smo dovoljno nisko da se trenutno ne bojimo visinske bolesti pa si možemo dozvolit malo alkohola). U jedinom seoskom dućanu piva nažalost nema, ali je Lal uspio od neke babe nabavit chaang, domaće pivo od ječma, ali nažalost još nedozrelo. Kiselo je i zrnato, ali nismo izbirljivi. Kao šlag na tortu došla je i činjenica da u Sahartari ima signala, doduše slabog, pa sam se danas prvi put nakon 8 dana dopisivala s mamom i sestrom, koje sam još prije nego šta smo krenuli na trek opširno u mailu upoznala s našim planom kretanja i rekla im da zovu nepalski GSS ako se ne javimo do nekog datuma. Ne treba reć koliko su sretne da do toga ipak nije došlo :)

Slika 72: Kuća u Sahartari sa šarenim drvenim prozorima karakterističnima za Dolpo

Slika 73: Lower Sahartara - plavi limeni krov u prvom planu je jedini kosi krov u selu - to je škola

Slika 74: Kuća u kojoj smo prespavali, i gazda na jednom od krovova

Slika 75: Luka na krovu, dole lijevo vijuga rijeka Thuli Bheri

Slika 76: Na brdu prekoputa, osamljeno naselje slično ovom

Dan 9

Jutro smo proveli povlačeći se po vrećama za spavanje, dremuckajući i čitajući knjige. Koliko god sam žudila za tim jednim lijenim danom, ipak sam bila nervozna, šta zbog smrada tepiha na kojem smo spavali, a šta zbog količine mušica koje su nas neprestano oblijetale. Ručali smo dal bhat i krenuli se pakirat, jer nećemo prenoćit tu nego par kilometara dalje, u kampu pokraj rijeke. Pozdravili smo se s domaćinima i krenuli dalje nizbrdo, kroz opustošeno selo, pokraj nekoliko gompa, do Tarakota. Rijeka Thuli Bheri koja ovuda teče ide prema Dunaiu i dalje se ulijeva u nama dobro poznati Karnali. Ovo je u povijesti bila glavna trgovačka ruta između Tibeta i Indije, a područje je pripadalo antičkom tibetanskom kraljevstvu Tichurong, s Tarakotom kao prijestolnicom. Po veličini ne veći od nogometnog igrališta, Tarakot neumoljivo podsjeća na srednjevjekovne utvrđene gradove kakve smo navikli viđat u Europi. Interesantan detalj su kruništa od osušenog drva na ravnim krovovima, koja predstavljaju statusni simbol: šta više drva imaš, to si veća faca. Ovaj neobičan običaj jedan je od razloga zašto je šuma u blizini sve rijeđa i rijeđa, iako je nadmorska visina dovoljno mala da bi drveće raslo. Drugi razlog je taj šta je drvo glavni i jedini energent za grijanje i kuhanje; ljudi često moraju prevaljivat ogroman put da bi nabavili tu osnovnu životnu potrepštinu. U Dolpu ljudi žive uglavnom od poljoprivrede, uzgajaju ječam, krumpir, heljdu, proso, pšenicu, špinat i rotkvice, i to teškom mukom jer kiše nema pa se polja moraju navodnjavat. Sve ostalo se kupuje u Dunaiu, i to po skupim cijenama jer treba sve to dopremit avionom, šta je užasno skupo, ili na mulama, šta traje dugo. Onda opet, od Dunaia do bilodi treba najmanje nekoliko dana hoda, pa onda čovjek padne na guzicu od iznenađenja kad na ovako nekoj kamenoj kućici bogu iza nogu ugleda - prozorska stakla.

Kasnije popodne stigli smo u kamp na +2500 mnv, digli šator i večerali dal bhat u bhattiju. Sutra idemo prema sjeveru, prateći rijeku Tarap Kholu, još dublje u Dolpo. Ali to je već materijal za idući post!  

Slika 77: Prava je majstorija spustit se ovim ljestvama

Slika 78: Spust prema rijeci

Slika 79: Kane chorten - kapija Tarakota

Slika 80: Prva polovica gotova! Ali još je dug put pred nama

Slika 81: GPS track

Slika 82: Profil prvog dijela treka; gore - dole, pa tako u nedogled

[rahim-tuphan]

Myagdi: Dhunga - Pun Hill Dhunga gare Deurali (3210m) as a New Tourist Spot Annapurna South Most of the tourists spend at least one night in Ghorepani to see the beautiful panoramic and close view of the Dhaulagiri and the Annapurna ranges from Pun Hill (3,090m) which is about forty five minute's climb up from Ghorepani town. Because of the reasons as mentioned above Himanchal High School, along with Ramche VDC, proposes this proposal for the development a Community Eco-Village Resort in Dhunga gare Deurali of Myagdi district as a community program for local development. There is no doubt that Pokhara and the vicinity will be visited by much more tourists than they are visiting now during the Visit Nepal Year-989. Therefore we need to develop new tourist spots with sufficient physical facilities for the increased numbers of tourists. We also need to identify new trekking routes that give better opportunity for the tourists to explore the wilderness of the region other than the one that is heavily crowded. For the last two decades, Pun Hill is serving as a very good view point of the Himalayas and Ghorepani as a good resting place for the tourists. However, the proposed site of Dunga gare Deurali gives the following advantages to the tourists over Pun Hill and Ghorepani. a. It gives better and wider views of the Himalayas because it is over 100m higher than Pun Hill and is located about two kilometers to the south of Pun Hill. One can easily tell the difference of the views after one visits there. b. A better sun rise and sun set can be viewed from this spot. Furthermore, those tourists who stay in Ghorepani have to walk about forty five minutes up to Pun Hill to see the sun rise and sun set. However, one can see it from the windows of their room, c. Views of the three beautiful valleys, Pokhara to the east, Nangi to the west and Sikha to the north can be seen from here. Phewa Lake and the night view of Pokhara city can be seen clearly from here. d. Since this area is not on the main trail of the local people and is far away from any villages it is very quite, peaceful and clean. The proposed spot of Dunga gare Deurali can be also used as a side trek for the tourists who stay overnight at Ghorepani. Thus there is a very good chance that we can make tourists to spend one more day in the area if we develop the area as a tourists spot. Routes to Dhunga gare Deurali From Pokhara there are several ways tourists can get to Dhunga gare Deurali. Dhaulagiri from Poon Hill Existing Routes The routes that are currently on operation are as follows: a. Pokhara-Birethanti-Tikhedunga-Ghorepani-Dunga gare Deurali b. Pokhara-Nayapul-Deupur-Sirpu-Jaljala-Dhunga gare Deurali c. Pokhara-Nayapul-Deupur-Salija-Nangi-Dhunga gare Deurali d. Pokhara-Patichour-Bajung-Dobato-Jaljala-Dhunga gare Deurali e. Pokhara-Kusma-Dobato-Jaljala-Dhunga gare Deurali New Routes: The following new routes also can be started to get to Dhunga gare Deurali. These routes will actually give tourists a different experience of trekking and better views of the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna Himalayas. Tourists will certainly like these three routes more than any others. a. Pokhara-Beni-Lopre-Nangi-Ramche-Dunga gare Deurali b. Pokhara-Beni-Baisiri-Kaphaldanda-Ramche-Dhunga gare Deurali c. Pokhara-Beni-Baisiri-Histan-Thula Kharka-Dhunga gare Deurali d. Pokhara-Birethanti-Ulleri-Bheri Kharka-Dhunga gare Deurali Routes for the Tourists Coming from Jomsom: Those tourists returning from Jomsom-Tatopani can take the following routes to get to Dhungagare Deurali. a. Tatopani-Sikha-Ghorepani-Dhunga gare Deurali b. Tatopani-Sikha-Khibang-Naka-Phulbari-Dhunga gare Deurali Returning Routes One can take any of the routes as mentioned above other than the route one took to get to Dhunga gare Deurali to return to Pokhara or go further to other destinations such as Tatopani-Jomsom-Muktinath, Ghandruk-Chhomorong-Annapurna base camp, Swanta-Khopra etc.

[skylinetreks]

Jaljala Hill Trek

https://www.skylinetreks.com/destination/nepal/trekking-package/newly-opened-trekking-route/jaljala-hill-trek.html

[bollywoodheadline-blog]

Jaljala Bhojpuri Movie Actor | VijayKumar Interview for Date in Shooting

[trekkingtrailnepal]

#offthebeatentrail of #lespar #moharedanda #trekking #moharedandatrek #shortmoharetrek #shorttrekfrompokhara #shorttrekinnepal #trekkinginnepal2018 #happyhiker #villagetrek #lespartrekking #nagivillage #lesparvillagetrek #trekwithapar #notjusttourists #explorer #nepal2020 #nepal2019 #communitytrek #homestaytrek #nepaltrekking #nepalsoon @trekking_trail_apar (at Jaljala, Dhaulagiri) https://www.instagram.com/p/Bs3iXmdFhgB/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=14fb8oprrdhsw