#it was ostensibly a diner with an american diner menu
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theglasscat · 2 years ago
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My favorite forever thought to be lost to time restaurant reopened with the same kitchen staff and I've been off and on tearing up all day over it
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orbemnews · 4 years ago
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Larry Fink’s New Climate Goal Larry Fink’s letter has landed The BlackRock chief’s annual letter to C.E.O.s is going out this morning and Andrew has a copy, which he writes about in his latest column. Mr. Fink’s letter has driven the conversation inside corporate America’s boardrooms for years — such as his proclamation that companies must have a purpose beyond profit, which preceded the Business Roundtable’s statement on stakeholder capitalism, and his call for corporate climate disclosures, which was followed by a raft of climate pledges by companies. Now, he’s pushing out the goal posts on climate action, asking companies to “disclose a plan for how their business model will be compatible with a net-zero economy.” He defines this as limiting global warming to 2 degrees Celsius above pre-industrial averages and eliminating net greenhouse gas emissions by 2050. With nearly $9 trillion of investments, BlackRock has a lot of influence. Last year, the firm voted against 69 companies and against 64 directors for climate-related reasons, and it put 191 companies “on watch.” BlackRock is planning to create “a temperature alignment metric for our public equity and bond funds, where sufficient data is available,” and Mr. Fink added that the firm would start new products “with explicit temperature alignment goals, including products aligned to a net-zero pathway.” This could have the same effect for investors as a calorie count on a menu for diners, a nudge toward making more informed choices. In the future, big public pension funds and other investors could have firms like BlackRock create custom indexes for them based on such data. Critics say that Mr. Fink isn’t moving fast enough and still owns $85 billion of assets tied to coal. But much of that investment is in passive index funds that it can’t divest; the firm said it was working behind the scenes with coal companies to encourage them to adopt cleaner technologies. What about investment performance? Mr. Fink said that sustainability-oriented funds outperformed market benchmarks last year, especially during the worst of the pandemic downturn. “The more your firms are seen to embrace the climate transition and the opportunities it brings,” he wrote to C.E.O.s, “the more the market will reward your firms with higher valuations.” HERE’S WHAT’S HAPPENING Janet Yellen is confirmed as Treasury secretary. The Senate approved President Biden’s nominee in an 84-15 vote, making her the first woman to hold the position (when she became Fed chair, she was the first woman in that role, too). European leaders take center stage at the World Economic Forum. Panels at the virtual summit today will discuss stakeholder capitalism, climate change and a post-pandemic world. Featured speakers include Ursula von der Leyen, the president of the European Commission; Chancellor Angela Merkel of Germany; and President Emmanuel Macron of France. New York City’s biggest pension funds will divest fossil fuel stocks. Two funds voted to divest an estimated $4 billion in energy stocks from their portfolios, while a third is expected to approve a similar move soon. Moderna and Pfizer-BioNTech rush to protect against new Covid-19 strains. The drug manufacturers said they were studying ways to alter their coronavirus vaccines after news that the treatments were less effective against a new variant found in South Africa. In other Covid-19 news, Merck withdrew its vaccine candidates after disappointing trials. Silicon Valley donors’ new focus: recalling California’s governor. Top executives like Doug Leone of Sequoia have given thousands of dollars to a once quixotic campaign to unseat Gov. Gavin Newsom, amid dissatisfaction over his handling of the pandemic and tax policies. Another frequent critic, the financier Chamath Palihapitiya, just announced that he is running for governor. Epstein ties cost Leon Black his C.E.O. job Leon Black, the billionaire co-founder of Apollo Global Management, said yesterday that he would retire as chief executive by July 31. The announcement follows an internal investigation into The Times’s revelation that he had paid the convicted sex offender Jeffrey Epstein millions in consulting fees. Mr. Black gave tens of millions more to Mr. Epstein than previously known. The company’s investigation into the two men’s relationship, conducted by the law firm Dechert at Apollo’s request, found that Mr. Black had paid Mr. Epstein $158 million from 2012 to 2017 for tax advice, double what The Times’s previous report had found. Mr. Black also lent Mr. Epstein, who died by suicide in jail in 2019, over $30 million. The report asserted that there was no evidence Mr. Black took part in any of Mr. Epstein’s criminal activities. What Mr. Epstein did for Mr. Black: The biggest project, according to the Dechert report, was helping Mr. Black with so-called GRATs, trusts that let families pass wealth to future generations without paying any estate taxes. (The Times has previously explained how the Trump family also made use of the tactic.) Over all, Mr. Black reckoned that Mr. Epstein’s work saved perhaps $2 billion in taxes. The relationship created a rift between Mr. Black and a longtime partner. Josh Harris, another of Apollo’s founders, argued that the ties to Mr. Epstein showed “poor judgment,” and he tried unsuccessfully to convince fellow board members that Mr. Black should step down immediately, citing the risk of reputational damage to Apollo, Matt Goldstein and Katie Rosman of The Times report. It’s unclear how much will change. Apollo’s new C.E.O. is Marc Rowan, the firm’s third co-founder, who built Apollo’s $300 billion insurance business but had largely stepped away last year. Mr. Black is staying on as Apollo’s chairman and will keep his seat on the firm’s three-member executive committee. Apollo announced moves that could dilute Mr. Black’s power, including adding four independent directors to its board and eliminating the firm’s super-voting stock, giving each investor one vote apiece. “Too many people have fought too hard in too many places for freedom of speech to be suppressed by this awful woke orthodoxy.” — Rupert Murdoch, whose media empire includes Fox News, in a speech accepting a lifetime achievement award. Exclusive: Billion-dollar golf carts Ingersoll Rand has tapped Goldman Sachs to run a sale of its Club Car golf cart unit in a deal that could fetch more than $1.5 billion, DealBook has learned. It’s already begun to talk to corporate buyers about a potential deal. Representatives for Ingersoll Rand and Goldman declined to comment. A focus on industrial equipment. The private equity firm KKR is a large shareholder in Ingersoll Rand, an industrial giant with a market cap of about $18 billion that specializes in compressors, pumps and power tools. It has owned Club Car since 1995, when it acquired the business through a $1.3 billion deal for its parent company, Clark Equipment. Ingersoll Rand is now exploring a sale of Club Car to focus on its core industrial businesses. “Personal utility vehicles.” Georgia-based Club Car produced the first golf cart with a steering wheel in the 1960s. Its carts, which sell at $7,000 to $25,000, can be decked out with features like Bluetooth speakers and GPS technology to measure the distance to the pin on a golf course. The golf cart industry, worth $1.2 billion annually, is expected to grow at an average of less than 2 percent over the next few years, according to Ibis World, with cart makers looking for new markets, like gated communities and campus security. ‘The law is frozen’ Ben Cohen — of Ben & Jerry’s ice cream fame — is fired up about a judicial doctrine called qualified immunity, which shields police officers from liability for wrongdoing with few exceptions. “It’s a clear example of injustice and contributes to a lack of trust in police,” Mr. Cohen told DealBook. “In any other organization, everybody is accountable for their actions.” Qualified immunity was created by judges. It’s not written in a statute but developed in Supreme Court precedent, starting in 1967, ostensibly to balance between police accountability and protection. The doctrine severely limits victims’ ability to hold officers accountable for even extreme misconduct. Since the killing of George Floyd raised public attention to police brutality, a coalition of business leaders, artists, athletes, activists and advocacy groups have joined a movement called the Campaign to End Qualified Immunity. Today, they are launching a 100-day awareness effort aimed at pressuring lawmakers to end the legal protection. “The law is frozen,” Mr. Cohen said. It’s a rare issue that puts progressives and conservatives on the same page. Mr. Cohen — who is planning to release a book about immunity with the rapper and activist Killer Mike — said he was pleasantly surprised by the diverse alliances around the issue, uniting groups like the libertarian Cato Institute and the liberal American Civil Liberties Union. Last year, Representative Ayanna Pressley, Democrat of Massachusetts, joined with Justin Amash, then a Republican-turned-Independent congressman from Michigan, on a bill to eliminate qualified immunity. It didn’t survive. “With momentum and support for ending this unjust doctrine evident nationwide, we must meet the moment and show the political courage to get it done,” Ms. Pressley said in a statement to DealBook. THE SPEED READ Deals Qualtrics, a survey software provider, is seeking a valuation of up to $15 billion in its I.P.O., nearly double what SAP paid for the company two years ago. (Reuters) The owner of the Boston Red Sox has reportedly called off talks to sell a stake to a SPAC founded by the financier Gerry Cardinale and the former Oakland A’s general manager Billy Beane. (Axios) Politics and policy The Treasury Department resumed efforts to put Harriet Tubman on the $20 bill, reviving an initiative that President Donald Trump had halted. (NYT) Republican operatives are reportedly considering pushing company executives to give money to political candidates personally to make up for a potential drop in corporate funds. (CNBC) Tech A growing number of companies are finding ways to use blockchains to avoid relying on a central authority, making them harder to shut down. (NYT) The most prominent unionization drive among Amazon workers will take place next month in Alabama, a state not known for union-friendly laws. (NYT) Best of the rest Instead of airing ads during the Super Bowl this year, Budweiser will help fund public-service ads promoting Covid-19 vaccines. (NYT) The C.E.O. of a casino company who jumped the line for a Covid-19 vaccine has resigned. (Bloomberg) The World Economic Forum isn’t being held in Davos this year — and skiers and locals are grateful. (WSJ) We’d like your feedback! Please email thoughts and suggestions to [email protected]. Source link Orbem News #Climate #Finks #goal #Larry
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seederturnip4-blog · 6 years ago
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Andrew Zimmern’s Lucky Cricket Is More Than a Controversy. It’s Also a Bad Restaurant.
It’s awkward to enter a restaurant like Lucky Cricket during a moment of controversy: The staff must carry on and do their jobs, knowing that some of their guests might just be rubberneckers hoping to get a glimpse of the place that its co-owner, travel television star Andrew Zimmern, claimed would save the Midwest from bad Chinese food. The ceilings of the dining rooms are decorated like the woven bamboo sides of a Chinese cricket cage, and that night, it felt like an apt touch: We were trapped here, restaurant staff, suburbanites, and media vultures all, trying to dig both meaning and livelihood from a place suddenly overloaded with the wrong kind of fame. On the night I went, the restaurant was three weeks old and chugging along, with Zimmern reportedly popping in once in a while to expedite in the kitchen.
I came to see Zimmern’s vision for the future with my own eyes — to view his secret weapon in the crusade against faux Chinese-American cuisine. To be absolutely clear, the firestorm around his remarks to Fast Company, wherein he said, “I think I’m saving the souls of all the people from having to dine at these horseshit restaurants masquerading as Chinese food that are in the Midwest,” was never a conversation about whether a white man could cook Chinese. (Of course people can cook whatever they want — relax.) It was about the strange idea that the food-court Chinese joints of the nation were a problem that needed fixing in the first place. That we the people have been duped by orange chicken and crab rangoon, and he, the world traveler and gourmand, would release us from our ignorance. In the fallout from Zimmern’s remarks, an essay I wrote in 2013 on cultural appropriation was quoted by Eater’s early coverage; writers of subsequent stories asked me for meatier quotes, and I obliged. For my trouble, I got an anonymous call on my cellphone from an earnest Zimmern stan, which made me want to go to Lucky Cricket even more.
Lucky Cricket is ostensibly our escape vessel from the tyranny of shopping-mall cashew chicken — so what does it look like? It looks dark and full of logos, a jumble of confusing signifiers. Adorned with a palm-thatched roof and giant Tiki faces with slushie machines in their mouths, the bar screams, “Rainforest Cafe but also Margaritaville.” Its tables’ surfaces feature iconic exotica album covers, celebrating an American musical genre famous for mixing the sounds of kotos, bongos, and gongs into a pan-Pacific pastiche of sound. That room was the first red flag.
If Lucky Cricket is meant to show us “real” Chinese cuisine, why is there a heavy Tiki element here? The Tiki aesthetic itself is mired in illusion, an invention of post-World War II Hollywood. You get the sense, being there, that you’re in a Disneyfied vision of the East. You see a Thai tuk-tuk (which of course you can sit in), photos of Asian marketplaces so generic it’s hard to place them, and posters that say “HAWAII,” while tucking into a plate of hand-torn noodles inspired by the cuisine of China’s central plateau. If this restaurant were a piece of writing, an editor would call it a “centaur”: two distinct organisms slapped together in an uncanny mess.
By the host station, there was already a wall of merch: T-shirts saying “Get lucky” awkwardly machine-translated into Chinese characters (a point of pride for Zimmern in the Fast Company interview) and a collection of kitschy Tiki mugs. Regardless of any complaints one might have about the rest of the restaurant’s authenticity, at least we know the mugs were manufactured in China. A private party space in the back, with sparse but blood-red decor, was labeled “Kung Food Room.”
In his remarks to Fast Company, Zimmern revealed that the goal of Lucky Cricket, aside from its own propagation as a nationwide chain, is to educate the Midwestern consumer and share the Chinese flavors and refinement that he experienced on his own culinary journey. The menu, he said, would feature his “favorites from around China.” Considering all of the bombast surrounding this opening, I at least expected the food to be decent, to be forced to admit that, yes, it was at least better than PF Chang’s, or even better than the Leeann Chin — Minnesota’s own Chinese-American chain — across the street. Yet the short menu felt incredibly watered down, and there was something fundamentally off about the execution of the majority of the items my group tried.
Top left: Stony’s Flyhead lettuce wraps. Top right: Soy sauce noodles. Bottom: Soy sauce noodles; Hong Kong waffles and Shanghai fried chicken; sheng jian bao; roast duck at Lucky Cricket.
The dan dan noodles were perhaps the most disappointing item we ordered. The flat egg noodles were a strange improvisation from the thin and cylindrical ones that a diner would normally see in this dish — are Midwesterners not used to spaghetti? To make matters more dire, the noodles were overdone to an Easy Mac consistency. The ground pork topping, meant to carry tang from pickled greens and numbing spice from ground Sichuan peppers, tasted like microwaved, airline economy-class breakfast sausage and was bereft of moisture. If we evaluate Zimmern in his self-appointed role as an educator, he has failed to introduce the dish properly.
Another basic item, the fried rice, was minimally and unevenly seasoned, absent of any crisp or wok-induced char. Even the bits of char siu, which one would normally expect to contribute some flavor, were tasteless. The dish required more than a little dousing with soy sauce and chile oil, provided to the table in Lucky Cricket-branded bottles. (The typeface may look familiar to fans of the late food magazine Lucky Peach.) More compelling were the Stony’s Flyhead lettuce wraps with ground pork, tofu, and loads of chopped garlic chives and an eggplant duo, one portion deep-fried and the other glazed with soy sauce and chiles. Both dishes were openly borrowed from other Chinese restaurants: Happy Stony Noodle in Queens, New York, and Peter Chang Cafe in Glen Allen, Virginia.
That the kitchen’s interpretation of the basics of Chinese meals — noodles and rice — were remarkably deficient is telling: So much went into the over-the-top aesthetic of the place, yet the details, those nuances that would supposedly shame every Panda Express cook in the nation, were actually worse for the wear. If Zimmern hadn’t set expectations so high on the realness scale, perhaps one would have forgiven the kitchen for its mishandling of building-block Chinese dishes. But if you can’t do noodles and rice, maybe try barking up someone else’s tree.
According to his Instagram, Zimmern occasionally checks in on the restaurant, though surely he’s not the one sending out those plates (nor would anyone reasonably expect him to). But if he were, perhaps that would be even more troubling, considering his claims of expertise. What Zimmern said during his video interview with Fast Company clarified for many what his intentions for the restaurant, for which he is a business partner, would be. And it’s not appreciation for the countless Chinese-American restaurateurs and cooks who adapted their cuisines to meet American palates where they were. Those pioneers did this for the sakes of their livelihoods and families, working day and night hawking General Tso’s chicken and sweet-and-sour pork so their kids could go to college. It’s hard to watch a well-resourced and connected outsider like Zimmern denigrate their contributions to American food culture while intending to profit off of the same.
Call me optimistic or naive, but I don’t think that the diners of Middle America, an increasingly diverse and worldly bunch, would be satisfied with an experience that is actually worse than food-court Chinese — as if a few aesthetic distractions like giant Tiki faces and Google-translated Chinese would make the experience feel more “real,” whatever that means. It’s hard to leave the restaurant with a strong impression of what it wants from you: It carries kitschy, mildly racist irony in one hand, and an argument for its own expertise in the other. That said, the vision of authenticity that Zimmern and his partners are peddling here exists in tension with a clear desire to filter it out of fear that Middle America can’t handle the good shit. And say what you will about Panda Express, but at least the fried rice is seasoned there.
Soleil Ho is a Minneapolis-based writer and podcaster, who is moving to California next year to be the dining critic at the San Francisco Chronicle. Katie Cannon is a Minneapolis-based photographer. Editor: Hillary Dixler Canavan
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Source: https://www.eater.com/2018/12/7/18130579/andrew-zimmern-lucky-cricket-controversy-visit
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daisycactus20-blog · 6 years ago
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Andrew Zimmern’s Lucky Cricket Is More Than a Controversy. It’s Also a Bad Restaurant.
It’s awkward to enter a restaurant like Lucky Cricket during a moment of controversy: The staff must carry on and do their jobs, knowing that some of their guests might just be rubberneckers hoping to get a glimpse of the place that its co-owner, travel television star Andrew Zimmern, claimed would save the Midwest from bad Chinese food. The ceilings of the dining rooms are decorated like the woven bamboo sides of a Chinese cricket cage, and that night, it felt like an apt touch: We were trapped here, restaurant staff, suburbanites, and media vultures all, trying to dig both meaning and livelihood from a place suddenly overloaded with the wrong kind of fame. On the night I went, the restaurant was three weeks old and chugging along, with Zimmern reportedly popping in once in a while to expedite in the kitchen.
I came to see Zimmern’s vision for the future with my own eyes — to view his secret weapon in the crusade against faux Chinese-American cuisine. To be absolutely clear, the firestorm around his remarks to Fast Company, wherein he said, “I think I’m saving the souls of all the people from having to dine at these horseshit restaurants masquerading as Chinese food that are in the Midwest,” was never a conversation about whether a white man could cook Chinese. (Of course people can cook whatever they want — relax.) It was about the strange idea that the food-court Chinese joints of the nation were a problem that needed fixing in the first place. That we the people have been duped by orange chicken and crab rangoon, and he, the world traveler and gourmand, would release us from our ignorance. In the fallout from Zimmern’s remarks, an essay I wrote in 2013 on cultural appropriation was quoted by Eater’s early coverage; writers of subsequent stories asked me for meatier quotes, and I obliged. For my trouble, I got an anonymous call on my cellphone from an earnest Zimmern stan, which made me want to go to Lucky Cricket even more.
Lucky Cricket is ostensibly our escape vessel from the tyranny of shopping-mall cashew chicken — so what does it look like? It looks dark and full of logos, a jumble of confusing signifiers. Adorned with a palm-thatched roof and giant Tiki faces with slushie machines in their mouths, the bar screams, “Rainforest Cafe but also Margaritaville.” Its tables’ surfaces feature iconic exotica album covers, celebrating an American musical genre famous for mixing the sounds of kotos, bongos, and gongs into a pan-Pacific pastiche of sound. That room was the first red flag.
If Lucky Cricket is meant to show us “real” Chinese cuisine, why is there a heavy Tiki element here? The Tiki aesthetic itself is mired in illusion, an invention of post-World War II Hollywood. You get the sense, being there, that you’re in a Disneyfied vision of the East. You see a Thai tuk-tuk (which of course you can sit in), photos of Asian marketplaces so generic it’s hard to place them, and posters that say “HAWAII,” while tucking into a plate of hand-torn noodles inspired by the cuisine of China’s central plateau. If this restaurant were a piece of writing, an editor would call it a “centaur”: two distinct organisms slapped together in an uncanny mess.
By the host station, there was already a wall of merch: T-shirts saying “Get lucky” awkwardly machine-translated into Chinese characters (a point of pride for Zimmern in the Fast Company interview) and a collection of kitschy Tiki mugs. Regardless of any complaints one might have about the rest of the restaurant’s authenticity, at least we know the mugs were manufactured in China. A private party space in the back, with sparse but blood-red decor, was labeled “Kung Food Room.”
In his remarks to Fast Company, Zimmern revealed that the goal of Lucky Cricket, aside from its own propagation as a nationwide chain, is to educate the Midwestern consumer and share the Chinese flavors and refinement that he experienced on his own culinary journey. The menu, he said, would feature his “favorites from around China.” Considering all of the bombast surrounding this opening, I at least expected the food to be decent, to be forced to admit that, yes, it was at least better than PF Chang’s, or even better than the Leeann Chin — Minnesota’s own Chinese-American chain — across the street. Yet the short menu felt incredibly watered down, and there was something fundamentally off about the execution of the majority of the items my group tried.
Top left: Stony’s Flyhead lettuce wraps. Top right: Soy sauce noodles. Bottom: Soy sauce noodles; Hong Kong waffles and Shanghai fried chicken; sheng jian bao; roast duck at Lucky Cricket.
The dan dan noodles were perhaps the most disappointing item we ordered. The flat egg noodles were a strange improvisation from the thin and cylindrical ones that a diner would normally see in this dish — are Midwesterners not used to spaghetti? To make matters more dire, the noodles were overdone to an Easy Mac consistency. The ground pork topping, meant to carry tang from pickled greens and numbing spice from ground Sichuan peppers, tasted like microwaved, airline economy-class breakfast sausage and was bereft of moisture. If we evaluate Zimmern in his self-appointed role as an educator, he has failed to introduce the dish properly.
Another basic item, the fried rice, was minimally and unevenly seasoned, absent of any crisp or wok-induced char. Even the bits of char siu, which one would normally expect to contribute some flavor, were tasteless. The dish required more than a little dousing with soy sauce and chile oil, provided to the table in Lucky Cricket-branded bottles. (The typeface may look familiar to fans of the late food magazine Lucky Peach.) More compelling were the Stony’s Flyhead lettuce wraps with ground pork, tofu, and loads of chopped garlic chives and an eggplant duo, one portion deep-fried and the other glazed with soy sauce and chiles. Both dishes were openly borrowed from other Chinese restaurants: Happy Stony Noodle in Queens, New York, and Peter Chang Cafe in Glen Allen, Virginia.
That the kitchen’s interpretation of the basics of Chinese meals — noodles and rice — were remarkably deficient is telling: So much went into the over-the-top aesthetic of the place, yet the details, those nuances that would supposedly shame every Panda Express cook in the nation, were actually worse for the wear. If Zimmern hadn’t set expectations so high on the realness scale, perhaps one would have forgiven the kitchen for its mishandling of building-block Chinese dishes. But if you can’t do noodles and rice, maybe try barking up someone else’s tree.
According to his Instagram, Zimmern occasionally checks in on the restaurant, though surely he’s not the one sending out those plates (nor would anyone reasonably expect him to). But if he were, perhaps that would be even more troubling, considering his claims of expertise. What Zimmern said during his video interview with Fast Company clarified for many what his intentions for the restaurant, for which he is a business partner, would be. And it’s not appreciation for the countless Chinese-American restaurateurs and cooks who adapted their cuisines to meet American palates where they were. Those pioneers did this for the sakes of their livelihoods and families, working day and night hawking General Tso’s chicken and sweet-and-sour pork so their kids could go to college. It’s hard to watch a well-resourced and connected outsider like Zimmern denigrate their contributions to American food culture while intending to profit off of the same.
Call me optimistic or naive, but I don’t think that the diners of Middle America, an increasingly diverse and worldly bunch, would be satisfied with an experience that is actually worse than food-court Chinese — as if a few aesthetic distractions like giant Tiki faces and Google-translated Chinese would make the experience feel more “real,” whatever that means. It’s hard to leave the restaurant with a strong impression of what it wants from you: It carries kitschy, mildly racist irony in one hand, and an argument for its own expertise in the other. That said, the vision of authenticity that Zimmern and his partners are peddling here exists in tension with a clear desire to filter it out of fear that Middle America can’t handle the good shit. And say what you will about Panda Express, but at least the fried rice is seasoned there.
Soleil Ho is a Minneapolis-based writer and podcaster, who is moving to California next year to be the dining critic at the San Francisco Chronicle. Katie Cannon is a Minneapolis-based photographer. Editor: Hillary Dixler Canavan
Eater.com
The freshest news from the food world every day
By signing up, you agree to our Privacy Policy and European users agree to the data transfer policy.
Source: https://www.eater.com/2018/12/7/18130579/andrew-zimmern-lucky-cricket-controversy-visit
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businessliveme · 5 years ago
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The 19 Dishes You Should Have Eaten in 2019
(Bloomberg) –Did anyone eat anything besides fried chicken sandwiches and fake meat this year?
The dishes that dominated the headlines in 2019 were the ones that, invariably, led to a fast-food counter. But no matter what the gourmands in the Popeye’s sandwich corner think, there was a lot else going on in the culinary world: next-level Japanese hand rolls, a Sicilian slice from cooks who have been obsessed since childhood, oysters from “oysteropolis” in England.
This year, my job as food editor took me around the U.S. from Chicago to Omaha to Brooklyn, N.Y., as well as to Mexico, Europe, and the U.K. These were the 19 dishes that proved impossible for me to stop thinking about. Put them on your bucket list now.
Anchovies | Table, Paris
Before he started preparing Michelin-starred food at Table, Bruno Verjus was a blogger. He’s also an excellent ingredient sourcer. These fatty, firm anchovies from the Loire are available only a few months a year. Verjus lightly cures them, then adds a splash of bright green fig leaf oil, along with chile-infused vinegar. They taste like they swam out of the sea, took a bath in a garden, and then arrived, dramatically arranged, on your plate.
Grilled Citrus-Marinated Chicken with Hot Sauce | Crown Shy, New York
The chicken at the Financial District’s new Crown Shy first captured my attention because the attached claw hung off the plate. (Chef James Kent will remove it for squeamish customers.) Equally compelling is the flavor that comes from marinating the bird in a mix that includes a lot of citrus and habanero-packed, house-made hot sauce, which infuses and tenderizes the meat. A dollop of the exhilarating, fruity hot sauce is served with the grilled bird, as is a salad that features sliced raw chiles for those who want to pile on additional heat.
Read: First, Burger King. Now Fancy Tasting Menus Are Ditching Meat
Cheeseburger | Red Hook Tavern, Brooklyn, N.Y.
Billy Durney, who lures smoked meat fanatics to Red Hook’s Hometown BBQ, highlights a different protein dish at his new spot. He and chef Allison Plumer have created New York’s most obsessed-over dish: a simple, impeccable cheeseburger. It’s made with a half-pound of beef—50% of which is funky, dry-aged N.Y. strip. A layer of white onion slices protects the bottom half of the sturdy, twice-baked bun from absorbing all the juices from its griddled patty. On top, a slice of American cheese melts over the side, doing its job perfectly.
Pescado a la Talla | Contramar, Mexico City
Chef and activist Gabriela Camara’s red and green fish, a nod to the Mexican flag, is her signature. I’d admired it on social media for years. Still, I was unprepared for how delightful the dish is. Half the red snapper is slathered with a bright parsley-garlic sauce, the other half with a multi-chile salsa that has a slow burn. As the fish cooks, the sauces form a crusty glaze. It also comes with bowls of beans, limes, house hot sauce, and tortillas. It’s the kind of dish you can linger over as you watch everyone from politicians to power shoppers walk into the restaurant.
Poularde de Bresse en Vessie | Epicure, Paris
On the other end of the spectrum from a fried chicken sandwich is poularde en vessie, or chicken braised in a bladder. At the grand, three-Michelin-starred dining room at le Bristol hotel, chef Eric Frechon recreates the forgotten classic. Part of the fun of this dish is the presentation: The bird arrives at the table in what looks like a balloon, and then is carved and plated in under a minute. There’s also the Bresse chicken itself, the gold standard of poultry. Silky and sumptuous with a gamey bite, the breast is embellished with a creamy sauce enriched with yellow wine, crayfish, and chanterelles.
Cinnamon Cayenne Pinwheels | Farine +Four, Omaha
Ellie Pegler baked at such notable New York spots as Aquavit before taking her skills home to Omaha to open a destination bakery. She uses clever flourishes to jump off classics such as the cinnamon roll. Her version is made with flaky, laminated croissant dough that’s sprinkled with a cayenne-cinnamon sugar blend, then finished with a swash of nutty, brown-butter frosting to cool it down.
Scallops With Butter Pudding | Café Cancale, Chicago
The most important thing about this starter is the butter pudding in the title, loosely based on a recipe from the side of a cornstarch box. It’s an airy mousse that’s a masterpiece of texture: The dish is irresistible, even if—like myself—you’re not a fan of scallops. Chef AJ Walker sprinkles fennel pollen on top, which adds a hit of anise to the sweetness of the pudding and the seafood.
Sicilian Slice | F&F Pizzeria, Brooklyn, N.Y.
This remarkable slice was engineered by a team of experts: Frank Falcinelli and Frank Castronova, who started the Frankie’s empire; their pizzaiolo Tyler Black; Chris Bianco of Pizzeria Bianco; and Chad Robertson of Tartine Bakery. There’s only a handful of options. Front of center are the thick, eye-grabbing Sicilian squares. The focaccia-styled, chewy crust has been generously brushed with olive oil, ensuring amazing crunchiness and char in the oven. It’s also coated with a layer of concentrated tomato sauce and enough cheese to provide a salty, melty contrast. The Franks source exceptional products from Southern Italy; I recommend adding a drizzle of their olive oil to the Sicilian slice, even if it doesn’t need it.
Tomato & Egg Hand-Pulled Noodles | Shang Artisan Noodle, Las Vegas
Off the Strip, this minimal storefront features the kind of noodles that people obsessively watch videos about—cooks whipping around yards-long lengths of dough like an Olympic sport until they evolve into masses of noodles, ready for a quick splash in hot water. Shang has a concise list of dishes that showcase its irregularly thick, chewy strands, but the bowl that stands out is the one with stir-fried tomatoes, adding a tangy sauce that coats the chewy noodles, and scrambled eggs that add a further dimension to the comfort-food staple.
Read: London Readies for Hot New Restaurants
Condensed Goat Milk Tart | Meroma, Mexico City
Set on a quiet, plant-filled street in Roma, Meroma acts as the neighborhood version of the bar in Cheers, a convivial neighborhood spot where a local might drop in with a new mezcal for everyone to sample. (At least, that’s what happened while I was there.) Mercedes Bernal and Rodney Cusic serve modern Mexican dishes straight through to dessert. Their knockout tart is like the ultimate version of dulce de leche: a delicately crusted round filled with cateja made from condensed goats milk and sweetened with honey. The oozy custard filling, as soft as caramel, is hidden by whipped cream and dusted with soothing chamomile pollen. It went great with that mezcal.
Steak Sandwich | Pastis, New York
Downtown Manhattan’s reincarnated Pastis has a section of steak frites on the menu, but the best meat in the house is the steak sandwich, a holdover from the original location. The steak in question is a pile of sliced griddled hangar that delivers a great, beefy chew. Plus, there’s the unstoppable combination of sautéed onions, Gruyère, and mustard-y frisee (ostensibly to cut the richness), all packed into a toasted roll. It’s a next-level Philly cheesesteak but with the crispy, skinny Pastis fries. To go even farther over the top, add a side of béarnaise sauce.
Salmon Temaki | Nami Nori, New York
In an energetic, white-walled space, Taka Sakaeda and Jihan Lee craft temaki, or Japanese hand rolls, so that they’re U-shaped, like a hardshell taco. They’re more visually fun than a closed roll; the chefs, who both worked at Masa, say the open shape also helps keep the ingredients evenly distributed. One of their inspirations is to pile salt- and sugar-cured Atlantic salmon, onion cream, tomatoes, and chives on top of the warm rice inside the crisp nori shell to create an uncanny riff on the New York bagel that inspired it.
Read: Cadbury candy maker sees ‘no stopping of growth’ in demand
Japanese Milk Bread With Truffles | Kumiko, Chicago
Milk bread, the ubiquitous fluffy Japanese loaf, gets to live its best in this fanciful dessert. The brainchild of chefs Noah Sandoval and Mariya Russell, the thick, toasted bread slice is topped with a scoop or two of fermented honey ice cream and shavings of the truffles of the season. The result is creamy and funky, with the crackle of the bread’s caramelized sugar crust slowly melting with the ice cream.
Scarlet Prawns with Yuzu Kosho | Flor, London
“It’s not revolutionary to say, but the best part of prawns are the heads,” says James Lowe. In an effort to get guests to eat them, the chef sources striking red prawns from the Atlantic, and then serves those heads separately from the tails. The glistening bodies are presented raw, with a sauce made from the roasted shells, and then splashed with piquant, yet floral, yuzu kosho, a Japanese chile sauce. Still, the heads are the stars. Lowe quickly grills them, leaving a bit of the body’s meat attached to retain the creamy, briny juices—but also to tempt diners who might leave the heads untouched.
Seared Wagyu | Yoshitomo, Omaha
It’s patently ridiculous to think a sushi place in landlocked Omaha would be home to a fireworks dish. Chef Dave Utterback is a disciple of elite Japanese sushi spots and imports a lot of his fish from Asia. Still, because he’s in Nebraska, Utterback found it hard not to add beef to his 17-course omakase. He rubs local wagyu with koji, a Japanese rice starter that has the effect of hacking the dry-aging process, then sears it quickly and finishes the supple beef with sea urchin butter to add a lingering bite.
Stracciatella | Rezdora, New York
The creamy center of burrata cheese, stracciatella shows up a thousand different ways on menus now, but never like this. Chef Stefano Secchi, a veteran of the world’s best restaurant, Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy, lays a blanket of sautéed king trumpet mushrooms under the soft cheese; on top is a sprinkling of porcini powder that adds a powerful, woodsy element. It’s even better with the house bread: griddled, oil-doused fett’unnata. “Dipping the fett’unta in the stracciatella is 100% the best move, and we actually make ‘stracci snacks’ later in service for the whole crew,” says Secchi.
Poached Rock Oysters | The Sportsman, Whitstable, England
Whistable, in Kent, on England’s southeast coast, has such good-quality, juicy bivalves, it has earned the nickname “oysteropolis.” The best place to eat them is at the Sportsman, a pub-turned-world-class restaurant near the ocean. Chef and owner Stephen Harris offers them in multiple guises, but the most attention-getting are the ones that are poached and doused with a luxurious, tangy butter he makes in-house. He adds diced pickled cucumber and a pungent avruga caviar that looks like lush fish roe but is actually from local herring.
Butter and Za’atar Bagel | K’Far, Philadelphia
As a New Yorker, I pledge allegiance to my city’s classic bagel. But Jerusalem bagels—long, lean ovals with less doughy filling than their Big Apple counterparts—have been gaining traction. Camille Cogswell’s phenomenal examples at the new bakery K’Far are a formidable 10 inches long with a surfeit of crusty, seed-crusted surface area. Though there’s a variety of fillings, the simplest one is the best: Za’atar spiced butter that soaks into the toasty dough.
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Mapo Tofu | Momotaro, Chicago
Mapo tofu is a dish most cooks leave alone. Gene Kato saw opportunity and tweaked the Sichuan classic. His stew-like dish cuts out a lot of oil and features a sauce made with 30-plus components, including XO sauce, to accent the overall umami-ness. Chunks of notably tender tofu, Chinese roasted pork, and chili sesame oil are also present. It’s served in a cast-iron skillet with a lid that, when removed, unleashes aroma.
The post The 19 Dishes You Should Have Eaten in 2019 appeared first on Businessliveme.com.
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bordersmash8-blog · 6 years ago
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Andrew Zimmern’s Lucky Cricket Is More Than a Controversy. It’s Also a Bad Restaurant.
It’s awkward to enter a restaurant like Lucky Cricket during a moment of controversy: The staff must carry on and do their jobs, knowing that some of their guests might just be rubberneckers hoping to get a glimpse of the place that its co-owner, travel television star Andrew Zimmern, claimed would save the Midwest from bad Chinese food. The ceilings of the dining rooms are decorated like the woven bamboo sides of a Chinese cricket cage, and that night, it felt like an apt touch: We were trapped here, restaurant staff, suburbanites, and media vultures all, trying to dig both meaning and livelihood from a place suddenly overloaded with the wrong kind of fame. On the night I went, the restaurant was three weeks old and chugging along, with Zimmern reportedly popping in once in a while to expedite in the kitchen.
I came to see Zimmern’s vision for the future with my own eyes — to view his secret weapon in the crusade against faux Chinese-American cuisine. To be absolutely clear, the firestorm around his remarks to Fast Company, wherein he said, “I think I’m saving the souls of all the people from having to dine at these horseshit restaurants masquerading as Chinese food that are in the Midwest,” was never a conversation about whether a white man could cook Chinese. (Of course people can cook whatever they want — relax.) It was about the strange idea that the food-court Chinese joints of the nation were a problem that needed fixing in the first place. That we the people have been duped by orange chicken and crab rangoon, and he, the world traveler and gourmand, would release us from our ignorance. In the fallout from Zimmern’s remarks, an essay I wrote in 2013 on cultural appropriation was quoted by Eater’s early coverage; writers of subsequent stories asked me for meatier quotes, and I obliged. For my trouble, I got an anonymous call on my cellphone from an earnest Zimmern stan, which made me want to go to Lucky Cricket even more.
Lucky Cricket is ostensibly our escape vessel from the tyranny of shopping-mall cashew chicken — so what does it look like? It looks dark and full of logos, a jumble of confusing signifiers. Adorned with a palm-thatched roof and giant Tiki faces with slushie machines in their mouths, the bar screams, “Rainforest Cafe but also Margaritaville.” Its tables’ surfaces feature iconic exotica album covers, celebrating an American musical genre famous for mixing the sounds of kotos, bongos, and gongs into a pan-Pacific pastiche of sound. That room was the first red flag.
If Lucky Cricket is meant to show us “real” Chinese cuisine, why is there a heavy Tiki element here? The Tiki aesthetic itself is mired in illusion, an invention of post-World War II Hollywood. You get the sense, being there, that you’re in a Disneyfied vision of the East. You see a Thai tuk-tuk (which of course you can sit in), photos of Asian marketplaces so generic it’s hard to place them, and posters that say “HAWAII,” while tucking into a plate of hand-torn noodles inspired by the cuisine of China’s central plateau. If this restaurant were a piece of writing, an editor would call it a “centaur”: two distinct organisms slapped together in an uncanny mess.
By the host station, there was already a wall of merch: T-shirts saying “Get lucky” awkwardly machine-translated into Chinese characters (a point of pride for Zimmern in the Fast Company interview) and a collection of kitschy Tiki mugs. Regardless of any complaints one might have about the rest of the restaurant’s authenticity, at least we know the mugs were manufactured in China. A private party space in the back, with sparse but blood-red decor, was labeled “Kung Food Room.”
In his remarks to Fast Company, Zimmern revealed that the goal of Lucky Cricket, aside from its own propagation as a nationwide chain, is to educate the Midwestern consumer and share the Chinese flavors and refinement that he experienced on his own culinary journey. The menu, he said, would feature his “favorites from around China.” Considering all of the bombast surrounding this opening, I at least expected the food to be decent, to be forced to admit that, yes, it was at least better than PF Chang’s, or even better than the Leeann Chin — Minnesota’s own Chinese-American chain — across the street. Yet the short menu felt incredibly watered down, and there was something fundamentally off about the execution of the majority of the items my group tried.
Top left: Stony’s Flyhead lettuce wraps. Top right: Soy sauce noodles. Bottom: Soy sauce noodles; Hong Kong waffles and Shanghai fried chicken; sheng jian bao; roast duck at Lucky Cricket.
The dan dan noodles were perhaps the most disappointing item we ordered. The flat egg noodles were a strange improvisation from the thin and cylindrical ones that a diner would normally see in this dish — are Midwesterners not used to spaghetti? To make matters more dire, the noodles were overdone to an Easy Mac consistency. The ground pork topping, meant to carry tang from pickled greens and numbing spice from ground Sichuan peppers, tasted like microwaved, airline economy-class breakfast sausage and was bereft of moisture. If we evaluate Zimmern in his self-appointed role as an educator, he has failed to introduce the dish properly.
Another basic item, the fried rice, was minimally and unevenly seasoned, absent of any crisp or wok-induced char. Even the bits of char siu, which one would normally expect to contribute some flavor, were tasteless. The dish required more than a little dousing with soy sauce and chile oil, provided to the table in Lucky Cricket-branded bottles. (The typeface may look familiar to fans of the late food magazine Lucky Peach.) More compelling were the Stony’s Flyhead lettuce wraps with ground pork, tofu, and loads of chopped garlic chives and an eggplant duo, one portion deep-fried and the other glazed with soy sauce and chiles. Both dishes were openly borrowed from other Chinese restaurants: Happy Stony Noodle in Queens, New York, and Peter Chang Cafe in Glen Allen, Virginia.
That the kitchen’s interpretation of the basics of Chinese meals — noodles and rice — were remarkably deficient is telling: So much went into the over-the-top aesthetic of the place, yet the details, those nuances that would supposedly shame every Panda Express cook in the nation, were actually worse for the wear. If Zimmern hadn’t set expectations so high on the realness scale, perhaps one would have forgiven the kitchen for its mishandling of building-block Chinese dishes. But if you can’t do noodles and rice, maybe try barking up someone else’s tree.
According to his Instagram, Zimmern occasionally checks in on the restaurant, though surely he’s not the one sending out those plates (nor would anyone reasonably expect him to). But if he were, perhaps that would be even more troubling, considering his claims of expertise. What Zimmern said during his video interview with Fast Company clarified for many what his intentions for the restaurant, for which he is a business partner, would be. And it’s not appreciation for the countless Chinese-American restaurateurs and cooks who adapted their cuisines to meet American palates where they were. Those pioneers did this for the sakes of their livelihoods and families, working day and night hawking General Tso’s chicken and sweet-and-sour pork so their kids could go to college. It’s hard to watch a well-resourced and connected outsider like Zimmern denigrate their contributions to American food culture while intending to profit off of the same.
Call me optimistic or naive, but I don’t think that the diners of Middle America, an increasingly diverse and worldly bunch, would be satisfied with an experience that is actually worse than food-court Chinese — as if a few aesthetic distractions like giant Tiki faces and Google-translated Chinese would make the experience feel more “real,” whatever that means. It’s hard to leave the restaurant with a strong impression of what it wants from you: It carries kitschy, mildly racist irony in one hand, and an argument for its own expertise in the other. That said, the vision of authenticity that Zimmern and his partners are peddling here exists in tension with a clear desire to filter it out of fear that Middle America can’t handle the good shit. And say what you will about Panda Express, but at least the fried rice is seasoned there.
Soleil Ho is a Minneapolis-based writer and podcaster, who is moving to California next year to be the dining critic at the San Francisco Chronicle. Katie Cannon is a Minneapolis-based photographer. Editor: Hillary Dixler Canavan
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Source: https://www.eater.com/2018/12/7/18130579/andrew-zimmern-lucky-cricket-controversy-visit
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