#iris van herpen fw20

[onlyvogue]

Iris van Herpen, Spring 2020

[myfashionburden]

iris van herpen fall/winter 2020 haute couture the ‘transmotion’ gown   The ‘Transmotion’ dress radiates in a diaphanous bloom of white silk organza, translucent layers pleated within the confines of an undulating form, tracing the fluid outline of the creation. Beneath the surface, the branching also reveals the synonymity of mycorrhizal networks and the symbiotic nature within human communities. Like fronds frozen in time, crystalline filaments sprout from the heart of the dress. Portraying delicate new life, black seed-like crystals punctuate the tip of each stamen-like strand.

[just-fashion-world]

My TOP 10 from Fall 2020 Couture fashion week

1: Maison Margiela 2: Schiaparelli 3: Iris van Herpen 4: Valentino 5: Ralph & Russo 6: Maurizio Galante 7: Guo Pei 8: Stephane Rolland 9: Viktor & Rolf 10: Ronald van der Kemp

[productomag]

Fashion Archive

By Decades and Seasons

80s

ss80 ✦ fw80 ✦ ss81 ✦ fw81 ✦ ss82 ✦ fw82 ✦ ss83 ✦ fw83 ✦ ss84 ✦ fw84

ss85 ✦ fw85 ✦ ss86 ✦ fw86 ✦ ss87 ✦ fw87 ✦ ss88 ✦ fw88 ✦ ss89 ✦ fw89

90s 

ss90 ✦ fw90 ✦ ss91 ✦ fw91 ✦ ss92 ✦ fw92 ✦ ss93 ✦ fw93 ✦ ss94 ✦ fw94

ss95 ✦ fw95 ✦ ss96 ✦ fw96 ✦ ss97 ✦ fw97 ✦ ss98 ✦ fw98 ✦ ss99 ✦ fw99

00s

ss00 ✦ fw00 ✦ ss01 ✦ fw01 ✦ ss02 ✦ fw02 ✦ ss03 ✦ fw03 ✦ ss04 ✦ fw04

ss05 ✦ fw05 ✦ ss06 ✦ fw06 ✦ ss07 ✦ fw07 ✦ ss08 ✦ fw08 ✦ ss09 ✦ fw09

10s

ss10 ✦ fw10 ✦ ss11 ✦ fw11 ✦ ss12 ✦ fw12 ✦ ss13 ✦ fw13 ✦ ss14 ✦ fw14

ss15 ✦ fw15 ✦ ss16 ✦ fw16 ✦ ss17 ✦ fw17 ✦ ss18 ✦ fw18 ✦ ss19 ✦ fw19

20s

ss20 ✦ fw20 ✦ ss21 ✦ fw21 ✦ ss22 ✦ fw22 ✦ ss23 ✦ fw23

Designers/Brands:

Alessandra Rich ✦ Alexander McQueen ✦ Alexander Wang ✦ Anna Sui ✦ Anteprima ✦ Area ✦  Armani ✦ Balenciaga ✦ Baby Phat ✦ Balmain ✦ Barragán ✦ Burberry ✦ Calvin Klein ✦ Céline ✦ Central Saint Martins ✦ Chanel ✦ Charlotte Knowles ✦ Chloé ✦ Christian Dior ✦ Christian Lacroix ✦ Comme des Garçons ✦ Dolce & Gabbana ✦ Dilara Findikoglu ✦ Dsquared2 ✦ Elie Saab ✦ Emilio Pucci ✦ Fendi ✦ Givenchy ✦ Gucci ✦ Guo Pei ✦ Helmut Lang ✦ Hermès ✦ Hussein Chalayan ✦ Iris Van Herpen ✦ Issey Miyake ✦ Jacquemus ✦Jean Paul Gaultier ✦ Jil Sander ✦ John Galliano ✦ Junya Watanabe ✦ Karl Lagerfeld ✦ Kenzo ✦ Lacoste  ✦  Lanvin ✦ Loewe ✦ Louis Vuitton ✦ Maison Margiela ✦ Marc Jacobs ✦ Michael Kors ✦ Miguel Adrover ✦ Miu Miu ✦ Nina Ricci ✦ Off-White ✦ Ottolinger ✦ Paco Rabanne ✦ Prada ✦ Raf Simons ✦ Ralph Lauren ✦ Rick Owens ✦ Roberto Cavalli ✦ Simone Rocha ✦ Sonia Rykiel ✦ Thierry Mugler ✦ Tracy Reese ✦ Tommy Hilfiger ✦ Undercover ✦ Valentino ✦ Versace ✦ Vetements ✦ Viktor & Rolf ✦ Vivetta ✦ Vivienne Westwood ✦  Yohji Yamamoto ✦ Yves Saint Laurent ✦ 16arlington

Models/Artists I like:

Angela Lindvall ✦ Arca ✦ Beri Smither ✦ Bjork ✦ Charli XCX ✦ Christy Turlington ✦ Daniela Lalita ✦ Gisele Bündchen ✦ Lily Cole ✦ Devon Aoki  ✦ Eartheater ✦ FKA Twigs ✦ Grimes ✦ Ivan de Pineda ✦ Kate Moss ✦ Kristen McMenamy ✦ Lady Gaga ✦ Linda Evangelista ✦ Lindsay Lohan ✦ Madonna ✦ Michele Lamy ✦ Nadja Auermann ✦ Naomi Campbell ✦ Paris Hilton ✦ Paz de la Huerta ✦ Pete Burns ✦ Shalom Harlow  ✦ Sky Ferreira ✦ SOPHIE ✦ Stella Tennant ✦

Photographers I like:

Annie Leibovitz ✦ Bruce Weber ✦ Charlotte Wales ✦ Hugo Comte ✦ Inez & Vinoodh ✦ Irving Penn ✦ Juergen Teller ✦ Mario Sorrenti ✦ Mario Testino ✦ Norbert Schoerner ✦ Steven Klein ✦ Steven Meisel ✦ Tim Walker  ✦

Magazines:

VOGUE ✦ ELLE ✦ GQ ✦ HARPER’S BAZAAR ✦ L’OFFICIEL ✦ NÚMERO ✦ I-D ✦ THE FACE

Interesting tags:

FASHION ✦ DETAIL ✦  BACKSTAGE ✦ CAMPAIGN ✦ MAGAZINE ✦ SUPERMODEL ✦ ART ✦ PHOTOGRAPHY ✦ INSTAGRAM ✦ LOOKBOOK ✦ 

[fashionweekhighlights]

Iris Van Herpen FW20 Haute Couture Look 18

Photographer: Valerio Mezzanotti

[fmprochester2017330]

Near Competitors - disclaimer

Doing the Market Analysis, which included creating Brand Position Graphs, locating the closest competitors, and conducting a SWOT analysis on them, was really challenging for me.

It was difficult to identify a brand that could be considered a near direct competitor. I didn't (and still don't) know of any other brand on the market with a similar particular customer, core values, or aesthetic that could compete directly with Di Petsa. It's not that the brand is extraordinary and unlike anything else we've seen; it's that the brand has discovered its niche and is so well positioned while still being a smaller label that I can't think of anything even quite analogous...

It was also hard to identify a group of competitors to compare the brand with on the Brand Positioning Graph,

Taking into account that the brand is: 

Recent, still a small label. It’s positioned in the luxury market, although it has slow fashion practices. Is fresh and current, follows trends, however is quite conceptual and interdiscipliary. Works with their own fashion calender; developed their own original material tecniques and added other traditional techniques to the collections, showing the Greek heritage. It has ready to wear collection on the website, capsule collections, lifestyle products and a workshop. Works with sustainable sales strategies, there biggest audience is the made-to-order pieces, for performances, photoshoots and bridal. 

Some brands that I was able to identify as perhaps direct competitors were, and I'll explain why:

Mugler, Jean Paul Gautier, and  Balmain -  I would say these are the most well-known luxury brand that are somehow more similar to the Di Petsa label than any other. 

Alexander Mcqueen - iconic brand legacie, very conceptual, luxury

Margiela - I would only consider this one because actually Margiela’s FW20 Couture collection was called out of plagiarism of Di Petsa’s work, with a similar Wet Look design. 

Nensi Dojaka - Albanian roots, London-based, namesake brand, Central Saint Martins MA graduate, Womenswear Emerging Designer, Luxury level, a lot of press and A-list celebraties wearing the brand, declared one of the freshest forces in Fashion right now, celebrates the female body in nuances of reveal and conceal with evolving dressing, everything exactly like Di Petsa. However, the aesthetic is definitly not the same. Its more sober, the colours used are darker, its classic, elegant and romantic in a different way. Overall the trend that Nensi is inserd is not the same where Di Petsa is. 

Sinéad O'Dwyer - I don’t really know much about the brand, it was a friend who recommended it as a possible competition. I couldn't find out much about the brand, there isn't much press, and the website is still in construction. However, I was able to see that it is a recent RCA graduated and London based womenswear brand. By the designs you can see on the brand's Instagram I realized that, like DiPetsa, is part of the trend Body Cult - Corporeal Sculptures, which explored the way in which we perceive our body. It also uses a lot of materials technology to create its designs, like Di Petsa. Also featured in Dazed 100.

Syndical Chamber (aka Sergio Castaño Peña) - Spanish designer, based in Barcelona. Conceptual dresses, made-to-order only. His concept and aesthetic is much more darker and heavy comparing it directly to Di Petsa. However, is comparable in the way that it also has a very strong signature style, the designs and prints are also like a cult to the female body, is sexy and provocative, how is made-to-order to fit exactly how it should...Also, I found the consumer audience to be very similar. 

Iris Van Herpen -  Also a very well-known luxury brand, I only added it because of its practice with materials technology. 

Simone Rocha - Womenswear designer, also graduated from MA at Central Saint Martins, known for her signature sense of subversive femininity, often incorporates clean colour palettes and experimental fabrics. 

As a result of this struggle, in order to position my selected brand in the brand position graphs, I opted to include some of the brands picked by some of my classmates, for reasonable comparisons. Namely the ones I think are best known to the masses, such as Chloe, Acne, Blumarine, Cos, Dior, H&M, Urban Outfitters, Palace, Off-White...

[parker-steel]

balance (week two)

1. Christopher Kane gel/pvc bag (FW19?)

2. Alexander McQueen SS19

3. Brandon Maxwell SS21

4. Jason Wu SS14

5. Iris Van Herpen SS19- Paris

6. Christopher John Rogers FW20 RTW

7. Ai Wei Wei-  Bang installation @ Venice Art Biennale 2013

8. Vintage Christian Dior

9. Marc Jacobs FW21

10. Vintage Yves St Laurent

[enesanz]

CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE FW20

Haute Couture season is my favourite season of the year. Each year, designers and their creations make us dream 

According to Wikipedia, the term haute couture is protected by law in France and is defined by the Paris Chamber of Commerce. To earn the title, a fashion house must follow these rules:

Design made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings.

Have a workshop (atelier) in Paris that employs at least fifteen people full-time.

Each season (i.e. twice a year) present a collection to the Paris press, comprising at least thirty-five runs/exits with outfits for both daytime wear and evening wear.

Everything must be handmade.

                               HAUTE COUTURE DESIGNERS;

Chanel

Maurizio Galante

Atelier Gustavolins

Bouchra Jarrar

Alexis Mabille

Alexandre Vauthier

Frank Sorbier

Christian Dior

Jean Paul Gaultier

Stéphane Rolland

Givenchy

Zuhair Murad

Schiaparelli

Iris van Herpen

Marco Zanini

Ralph & Russo

Hervé L. LeRoux

Versace  

Valentino  

Elie Saab Armani 

Giambattista Valli

Chanel was one of the first shows of the month. This was actually a really special occasion for the brand, as it is the first collection without Karl Lagerfeld, the káiser of fashion who sadly passed away in february.

Virginie Viard is the new creative director of the brand.

 She was a really close friend of Karl, and they worked hand to hand for every show. Her style is femenine, elegant and classic.

The show atmosphere was epic. Viard created a huge library with thousand of books. The model walked between them like elegant librarians, with grace and calm.

I was really excited for this show. Lagerfeld has been in charge of the brand for 30 years, so the first couture show without him had to be really epic and promising.

What really surprised me is how Viard made a really wearable collection. The main pieces where coats, long and short, and flowy maxi dresses. She used the famous Chanel tweed in a really clever way. I mean, you could tell that the clothes were Chanel, but it was not overly done like in Lagerfeld’s last collections.

The hair and make up was simple and minimalistic. This was really surprising, as last coutures show is known for its bright red lips, smoky eyes and a crazy updo hairstyle.

I think this was a really clever movement of Viard. She wanted the clothes to have the main role, so the models only had some eyeliner and mascara on.

Some of my favourite looks are:

I think Virginie surprised us all. She was not known until this collection, so this is a really clever and good way to start. So excited to see what she creates next

If you want to watch the whole show:

[onlyvogue]

Iris van Herpen, Spring 2020

[onlyvogue]

Iris van Herpen, Spring 2020

[onlyvogue]

Iris van Herpen, Spring 2020

[onlyvogue]

Iris van Herpen, Spring 2020

[onlyvogue]

Iris van Herpen, Spring 2020

[onlyvogue]

Iris van Herpen, Spring 2020

[onlyvogue]

Iris van Herpen, Spring 2020