#if you are interested this is Christian Dior's “new look”

[yama-uba]

I'm writing down an idea to write a fic one day.

Knock on the respawn machine breakdown, which leads the list of "top parade of the most terrible breakdowns" of mercenaries (with a huge gap from "endless duplicate of Scouts", "chimerization of the entire team into 3 people according to class tasks", "swapping bodies" and, of course, "swapping classes") - "Loss of the Y-chromosome".

The team tries not to kill the Engineer and the Medic while they fix the dump of their team's machine, "enjoying" the emotional swings and gender expectations of the south of the country in the 70s. Each of the classes goes through their own identity crisis (and menopause) in despair and an attempt not to go completely crazy in the body of a living nightmare of a conservative (well, except for the bostonboy, who became a hybrid of Jean Seberg and Twiggy, as well as the Spy, who became a five-foot Audrey Hepburn). Almost everyone starts to have hysterics from despair.

Meanwhile, Spy, five minutes after the incident: *looks at everyone else*

He was ready. He had been preparing his whole life for this to happen! HE WAS BORN READY FOR THIS TURN OF FATE!

[pucksandpower]

Charles Leclerc x CEO!Reader - Social Media AU

Formula 1 News: Everything We Know About Arnault Racing So Far

The team is owned by LVMH, the world’s leading luxury goods company, and is named after the prominent Arnault family, which includes LVMH’s chief operating officer Y/N Arnault, wife of Charles Leclerc. Y/N is the youngest daughter of Bernard Arnault, the world’s richest man, and is said to be his favored successor.

They are expected to benefit from the extensive resources and expertise of LVMH which boasts a diverse portfolio of luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Moët & Chandon, TAG Heuer, and Tiffany & Co. These assets could potentially provide Arnault Racing with a competitive edge on and off the track in a sport heavily reliant on business dealings.

As with any new team, Arnault Racing will face numerous challenges including building a strong technical staff, securing talented drivers, and establishing partnerships with sponsors and suppliers. However, the backing of LVMH’s vast resources and the Arnault family’s commitment to success bode well for their prospects.

While no official announcement has been made regarding Charles Leclerc’s involvement with Arnault Racing, his familial connection to the team coupled with his recent decision to step away from Scuderia Ferrari has fueled rumors and heightened interest in whether he will be part of Arnault Racing’s driver lineup … (Read more)

Press Conference of Arnault Racing CEO, Y/N Arnault, and Team Principal, Sebastian Vettel

REPORT Arnault Racing snags Adrian Newey: CEO Y/N Arnault says “whatever arbitrary figure you have in your head, triple it and that’s how much we offered him” (Aug 2023)

NEWS Red Bull loses LVMH-owned sponsor TAG Heuer as entry of Arnault Racing brings new conflict of interest (Dec 2023)

UPDATE A weekend of team bonding on the beach after the car launch? Charles Leclerc and Mick Schumacher talk about flourishing environment at Arnault Racing (Feb 2024)

FEATURE What to expect from Arnault Racing — data from preseason testing explained (Feb 2024)

REPORT Podiums and points: a strong start to the season for newcomers Arnault Racing (Mar 2024)

FEATURE The Prince that was promised: Charles Leclerc triumphs in Monaco (May 2024)

UPDATE Who are the ‘losers’ and ‘winners’ halfway through the season? Arnault closes in on Red Bull as Ferrari falls behind (Jul 2024)

FEATURE What could have been — Arnault’s Charles Leclerc tops the podium in Monza as Tifosi look on (Sep 2024)

NEWS Red Bull’s reign continues as Arnault brings home historic P2 in both the Drivers’ and Contructors’ championship during debut season (Nov 2024)

REPORT Arnault promises more competitive 2025 season following already impressive first year on the grid (Jan 2025)

“We find ourselves at the edge of our seats here in Abu Dhabi. It all comes down to this final lap of the season and the battle for the World Championship has reached its peak! Charles Leclerc of Arnault and Max Verstappen of Red Bull are locked in a fierce duel for the ultimate prize.”

“This is the moment every racing fan has been waiting for. The atmosphere here is electric and the stakes couldn’t be higher. Leclerc and Verstappen have been pushing the absolute limits of their cars and their skills throughout this intense race.”

“They certainly have. Both drivers have showcased their exceptional talent and determination all season long. It’s a clash of titans, and now, as they approach the final corners, it’s do-or-die time.”

“Leclerc has been holding onto the lead for the majority of this race but Verstappen is focused in his pursuit. The Dutchman is determined to wrestle this championship away from Leclerc’s grasp.”

“The tension is palpable here as they enter the final sector. Leclerc seems to be holding his ground but Verstappen is right on his tail, looking for the slightest opportunity to strike!”

“This is nail-biting stuff. The championship hangs in the balance as they approach the final turn. Leclerc takes a defensive line but Verstappen moves to the inside. He’s desperately trying to overtake!”

“Verstappen is side-by-side with Leclerc! They’re wheel-to-wheel! What an incredible battle! They both accelerate out of the corner …”

“They’re neck and neck! It’s an all-out sprint to the checkered flag. Who will emerge victorious?”

“Leclerc finds another gear! He edges ahead of Verstappen!”

“It’s a photo finish! They cross the line. And ... it’s Charles Leclerc! Charles Leclerc has done it! Charles Leclerc is the World Champion!”

“What an incredible end to the season. Charles Leclerc and Arnault Racing have taken the championship title in a heart-stopping finale!”

“This is the stuff of legends. Leclerc has proven himself a champion through and through today. The emotion in the Arnault Racing garage is indescribable!”

“What an amazing moment for Leclerc and his team. This race will be remembered for years to come. Congratulations to Charles Leclerc! Congratulations to Arnault Racing!”

y/narnault

Liked by charles_leclerc, arnaultracing, and 938,572 others

y/narnault ✨ Abu Dhabi, 2017 ✨

A chance encounter in the paddock with a hotshot young driver sent us both sprawling to the ground and ignited a spark that changed our lives forever. Our love story began in Yas Marina as Charles celebrated the end of the season after winning the F2 championship. Little did we know that this would be the start of a remarkable journey, both on and off the track

Fast forward to ...

✨ Abu Dhabi, 2025 ✨

As the CEO of Arnault Racing, it fills my heart with immense pride to witness our immensely talented driver win a much deserved World Drivers' Championship. As the wife of Charles Leclerc, it makes me even prouder to see the most amazing person I know finally be granted the fruit of his labors. There has been no sweeter feeling than chasing our dreams hand-in-hand

Eight years later, in Yas Marina once again, our journey came full circle. Our love, like a well-oiled machine, has only grown stronger with each challenge we faced. Working together as a team, we transformed dreams into reality and surpassed every limit. The joy of victory, the adrenaline of the race — it all pales in comparison to the love and support we share

To our extraordinary team at Arnault Racing, thank you for your relentless commitment and tireless efforts. Each one of you has played a vital role in making history this season and we truly could not have done it without you

Charles, my champion, you continue to inspire me every day with your talent, dedication, and resilient spirit. The road here has not always been easy but I am thankful for every obstacle we faced because they made us grow as people and as partners in both love and racing. We have weathered the storms and celebrated the triumphs. The countless hours of hard work, sacrifice, and pouring over data for so long that we forgot the cookies burning in the oven brought us to this extraordinary moment of victory. But beyond the increasingly crowded trophy cases and roaring crowds, it is our love that always shines the brightest. No matter where we may have placed in the standings, I was always content in knowing that we are P1 on the podium of life — and now we stand on top of both together

This chapter is just beginning. There are still many races left to win, many trophies left to raise, and many championships left to clinch

View all 2,614 comments

charles_leclerc From the moment we met, you have seen me not just as a driver or public figure but as a person with hopes, dreams, and flaws. You have been there for me through the setbacks and the victories and your faith in me never has wavered. Your belief in me pushed me to be the best version of myself and I will spend the rest of our lives eternally grateful for being sent such an angel. Our victories are not only measured by the number of trophies or the applause of the crowds but in the quiet moments we get to bask in the life we built together. Our love has always been the beacon that guides me, even in the darkest of times. It is the constant reminder that no matter where we stand in the standings, we have each other to lean on. I have no doubt that it is because of you that I stand here today. You are my pillar of strength, my constant motivation, and my rock. Without your love and support, none of this would have been possible. Thank you, mon amour, for believing in me, for supporting me, and for always standing by my side. It is fate that brought us together and destiny that irreversibly wove our hearts into one

f1wagupdates you two are singlehandedly keeping my belief in true love alive

formulanone how are they still in the honeymoon phase after eight years together and i can’t even get a text back?

arnaultracing there are power couples and then there is THE power couple 🤩

GQ France: An Interview with 2025 Formula 1 World Champion Charles Leclerc

charles_leclerc and y/narnault

Liked by arnaultracing, pierregasly, and 1,854,632 others

charles_leclerc Baby Leclerc will make their F1 debut in August 🍼

View all 3,927 comments

pierregasly hmmm i wonder what happened a little over nine months before the due date?

mickschumacher no wonder we couldn’t find them during the championship party 😳

arnaultracing a championship baby for our champions 🏆

lovelyleclerc oh to be reincarnated as their baby

leclercbabe it’s really getting gifted godly genes, money, and talent 😭

princecharles is it bad that i’m jealous of a baby that hasn’t even been born yet?

[beyondfabric]

Brands to Know: Atelier Estorninho

Portugal is renowned for its fashion industry worldwide, with some the leadi ng fashion labels producing in its collections here due to the vast know-how and expert craftsmanship. It’s a fact that the quality/price ratio is virtually unmatched, what might lead us to think that we’d have a burgeoning market for new designers and independent fashion brands to pave their way into the mainstream market. However, that is not the case here, as let’s admit it, we lack the branding capacity to make it happen and government support is solely focused on massive scale internationalization.

Nonetheless, every now and then a new name pops that caughts the attention on both local and international markets with the prime players being Portuguese Flannel, La Paz and more recently, Ernest W Baker. As you may know by now if you’ve following me for a while, I’m a sucker for promoting local quality products and projects and on this note, today I bring you and up and coming label that has been gaining momentum in the local scene: Atelier Estorninho.

Inspired by a retro-vintage meets military aesthetic, Estorninho has been consistently putting out interesting designs that are thoroughly tested before hitting the shelves, a philosophy I can relate with including in my own project. I reached out to Hugo, the brands founder, to learn a bit more about his vision of contemporary menswear

1 - Hi Hugo. Can you tell us a bit more about what lead you to create this eponymous label?

The creation of Atelier Estorninho was driven by a desire to blend my personal interests in classic timeless garments, vintage aesthetics and military-inspired fashion with modern textile technology. I wanted to bring a unique perspective to the industry, offering pieces that are not only stylish but also functional and timeless.

2 - Do you come from a fashion background or is it born out of pure passion?

While I don't have a traditional fashion background, I do have a strong foundation in design. Since I was a kid, I always dreamed of pursuing a creative career. I was obsessed with video games like Medal of Honor, action figures like G.I. Joes and war movies, and I often funnily geared up in camouflage in kindergarten. My passion for creativity and design, combined with my fascination with military aesthetics, naturally led me to start my own label. Although I've never had any formal classes related to fashion, my journey into this field is fueled by pure passion and a lifelong love for innovative and expressive design. I've always been fascinated by how fashion can tell a story and express individuality, which motivated me to start my own label.

3 - You have a keen eye to create stand out pieces with heavy military influence but that simultaneously merge preppy elements. What inspired you to go this way?

The inspiration comes from a love of classic military uniforms and their functionality combined with the refined, versatile and polished look of preppy style. I wanted to create a fusion that captures the best of both worlds – ruggedness and elegance.

Specific army uniforms that have influenced my designs include the US Army's OG 107 uniforms issued during the Vietnam War, named after their color (Olive Green, shade 7). These uniforms inspired the cut of my cargo trousers and the rear patch pockets with flap closures. Another significant influence is the Gurkha shorts used by the British military, named after the fierce Nepalese soldiers. The wide fit of these shorts inspired the silhouette for my Ivy Chino Shorts.

Additionally, my Ivy Chino Trousers are inspired by the French Military M-52 trousers, known for their back flap pockets and shallow pleats. These trousers were adopted by the French army in 1952, during a time when iconic designers like Christian Dior, Balenciaga, and Chanel were active, marking the golden age of French fashion. This era also saw significant events such as the China War and the Algerian War, where military force played a crucial role. The M-52s were created in this historical context and were mass-produced as French uniforms for about a decade.

On the preppy side, the reason I named many of my clothing items "Ivy" is because I am very interested in the clothing worn on college campuses during the late 1950s in the Northeastern United States, particularly those of the Ivy League. These institutions were the predecessors of preppy style, and I wanted to embody the lifestyle of someone who lived in an Ivy League school environment. This includes a shared dorm room and a small wardrobe that demands a carefully curated selection of items elegant enough for classes, lectures, and school events, but also comfortable, stylish, and versatile enough for adolescent life—whether wrestling around at the park with friends or grabbing a beer at the bar. These clothes are meant to be reliable companions in every situation. My Ivy League Cardigan is inspired by the cardigans worn during that era too, but combining it's charm with a cozy feeling of a hoodie by utilising jersey fabric instead and kangaroo pockets, just like your favourite hoodie.

By merging these historical military elements, preppy charm and modern fabrics, I hope to create distinctive and versatile pieces that stand out.

4 - What would you say are the trademark features of an Atelier Estorninho item?

Simple: Timeless charm, deliberate craftsmanship, premium materials.

5 - You approach each design carefully, releasing limited styles and runs at a time. Is this a necessity due to the scale of the brand or a business model in itself?

It's both a strategic choice and a practical necessity. Being the sole designer, I take a hands-on approach to every aspect of the creation process—I love every bit of it, but it's a ton of work! Although I have a small team, this setup enables me to produce meticulously crafted items that stand out and ensures each piece meets exacting standards for quality and timeless design. Limiting our runs isn't just about enhancing exclusivity; it's about managing production sustainably and staying true to my commitment to quality over quantity.

6 - What’s your favourite item in the collection and why?

My favorite item would have to be our signature military-inspired Ivy Chino Shorts. They perfectly encapsulate the brand’s ethos, combining quality, practicality, and versatility with style. The attention to detail and the story behind their design make them a standout piece in the collection. Features like the double pleats, side waist adjusters, and flexible cotton fabric ensure comfort and ease of movement. The deep front slanted pockets and two back pockets with flaps provide convenient storage where your items won’t fall out. These shorts can be dressed up or down thanks to their classic and elegant cut. The use of Spanish luxury cotton fabric, Italian corozo buttons, and patterned pocket liners add a fine, luxurious touch to the detail.

7 - We seem to share a common passion for unique trouser styles. In your opinion, what makes trousers so special?

Trousers are a cornerstone of any outfit, second only to shoes in their visual impact. They have the power to transform the overall look and feel of an ensemble. For me, investing in high-quality trousers is crucial; I'd prefer to pair a $100 pair of trousers with a $10 t-shirt rather than the reverse.

I have very specific rules for trousers: the leg opening shouldn't be tight on the ankle, but rather sit at least half the length of your feet. This ensures a comfortable fit and a balanced silhouette. I also prefer high-waisted trousers with a long fly on a man, as this enhances a man's physique and silhouette, providing a classic and flattering look. Additionally, a straight cut for a standard fit is my go-to, as it offers timeless elegance and versatility.

Personally, I prefer pleats for suit trousers and chinos, as they add a touch of elegance and functionality, providing extra room and comfort. For jeans, selvedge denim is my fabric of choice due to its durability and classic appeal. The meticulous craftsmanship involved in creating selvedge, indigo dyed denim results in a superior product that ages beautifully over time.

One of the reasons I focus so much on trousers is that they need to be both stylish and functional. People often tell me how much they appreciate the practical elements, such as deep pockets and durable fabrics, alongside the aesthetic appeal. For example, my cargo trousers, feature rear patch pockets with flap closures that are both stylish and highly functional. Additionally, the preppy influence in my designs, particularly seen in my Ivy Chino Trousers, offers a versatile option that fits seamlessly into various settings, from casual to more formal occasions, you'll always look appropriate and stylish.

Trousers not only provide structure and style but also offer versatility and comfort. They carry a lot of personality in a look, more than any graphic t-shirt ever can in my opinion. Their design, fabric, and fit can dramatically enhance personal style and make a strong fashion statement. The right pair of trousers can elevate any ensemble.

8 - You recently launched a capsule collection at The Feeting Room. What are the future plans in terms of collections and brand evolution?

I plan to continue exploring new design ideas and collaborations, maybe diving deeper into functionality, timelessness, and style. I aim to create clothing that is practical and comfortable for traveling or everyday errands, yet elegant. This includes incorporating classic visual influences, durable construction, functional pockets, and using natural and luxury fabrics.

For the long term, I hope to continue capturing an essence of timeless masculine charm, balancing ruggedness and elegance. Maybe including a women's collection too, with a different approach that merges seamlessly with the brand. I hope to expand internationally and eventually open a flagship store. I hope to create memorable pieces in my customers' wardrobes, prioritizing owning less but owning better.

9 - Where can we get your items?

Our collections are available at select boutiques, including The Feeting Room, and through our online store. We also participate in pop-up events and fashion fairs, which are great opportunities for customers to experience our brand in person.

[barbeygirl]

A quick introduction to 1940’s fashion

I've been so obsessed with Band of Brothers recently and I love reading the fanfics. Here’s my contribution, for your OC's.

(soon!) Part 2. Hair, makeup etc

(soon!) 1940's lookbook (photos)

The war had a major impact on 40's fashion. There were shortages and rations, and women were entering the workforce as men went off to war, leading to a more simplistic, utilitarian style.

Rations and regulations:

In the UK, clothing was rationed from June, 1941 to March, 1949, in varying strictness. So although you still payed for clothing with money, you'd need coupons to be allowed to buy them altogether. In the US, the Regulation L-85 (1942), rationed natural fibers and restricted how clothing could be made in order to save fabric. This meant regulating the skirt length, the fullness of pants and jackets, and even banned cuffs.

Silhouette:

The early 40's silhouette had strong, boxy shoulders, but by the mid forties and as the restrictions grew more strict, the silhouette softened to save materials. A nipped-in and high waistline stayed popular for the whole decade, and a hemline below the knee was fashionable until 1947, when Dior came out with the "New Look".

Fashion:

Because restrictions and shortages, the look was simple but stylish. Showy, over the top clothing was considered unfashionable to wear in wartime Britain.

The "military style" bled into every day fashion. It was common for men, who were not on active duty, to still wear bomber jackets, trench coats and aviator glasses. It's visible on women's fashion as well, which is why some of the clothing have a sort of a uniformly look.

Popular outfits for women were square-shouldered jackets with matching A-line skirts, shirtwaist dresses, and thanks to actresses, pants were now also a stable part of women's wardrobes. The pants had wide, straight legs and high waists, and were often paired with a colorful blouse or sweater and a matching jacket.

Hand knitting in Britain was at peak popularity during the war. Women on the home front were encouraged to "knit your bit" and contribute to the war effort by knitting for the troops. The warmth of woollen items also made knitwear popular for civilians.

Working women:

Women were entering the workforce to replace men, who went off to war. This required more practical attire, such as sturdy shoes, head scarves, overalls etc.

Some jobs (such as the WAVES) felt it important to emphasize that women wouldn't become any less feminine by working or wearing a uniform. This is why makeup, nail polish and feminine hairstyles weren't just largely allowed, they were encouraged.

Actress Veronica Lake, famous of her highly imitated "Peek-a-boo" hairstyle, where her hair covers one of her eyes, encouraged women working in factories to tie their hair up into safer styles to avoid injury. In this Safety Styles video, she has her hair up in a "victory roll" style.

The New Look by Dior:

After the long war, and as life was slowly returning back to normal, there was a want of "returning to femininity" among women. At the same time, some women feared that this ultra-femininity would set back all the progress they had made working outside the home during the war.

In 1947, Christian Dior released a new collection called ”The New Look” which featured a full, calf-length skirt. After the simple lines of the utility clothing, such a dress seemed desirable by contrast. The full skirt was also controversial for how much fabric it used, since rationing in the UK wouldn't end for another two years and there were still material shortages in both UK and the US.

Despite the controversies, the New Look was hugely popular and became the predominant silhouette well into the 1950's.

A/N: To keep this short, I had to paste and delete like half of what this originally was onto part 2. Also, lmk if there's interest in men's fashion ver. of this!

Hopefully this was legible. All the ”not my first language blah blah” stuff <3

sources: (links)

Imperial War Museum National Museum of American History centralcasting.com V&A Museum (free 1940's knitting patterns!!) NationalWW2museum.org

[professorpski]

The Sweeping Ball Gown, Vogue 1963 

This glamorous strapless evening gown dates to 1948 that has been re-issued by Vogue Patterns in modern sizes. It shows all of the luxury of post-war prosperity that one hoped for from post-war prosperity. Just a year earlier, Christian Dior had shown the New Look which offered up day dresses with enormous width at the low hemlines, cinched waists, and soft shoulders. It was a break from the more practical looks of the war years, with hemlines around the knee and padded shoulders, and narrower skirts. This was a silhouette which would live on into the 1950s.

Evening gowns followed suit with even wider hemlines, and here you have one that is more than 7 feet around . To create the mass of the skirt, hold it away from the body, and  make the waist look even tinier, crinoline net is used underneath as interfacing, some 3 plus yards of it. An overskirt cascades down the sides, a feature that will ripple with the wearer's movement. Such an abundance of skirts means that the dress takes around 8 yards of fabric at 60” width. Yes, that is a lot of fabric.

The bodice, which is boned on the inside, is also cuffed on the outside, with a clever shaping so that the front points inward and upwards towards the face. A graceful line and a dynamic one that indicates movement and energy. 

They recommend faille, satin, dupioni, and taffeta, plus brocade, but brocade will probably weigh too much. Satin is beautiful but you can mar it so easily, or at least I can, so I would recommend silk dupioni or shantung whose texture will wear better and catch the light in interesting ways too. And there are soooo many gorgeous colors to choose from. They do suggest that overskirt may be made of a different fabric and the illustration of the back of the dress done in white hints at that. If you look closely, you will see a more textured fabric at the lower left, a lace perhaps? But a harmonizing color might work too. So many possibilities. 

This bodice will need a close fit, so you may want to muslin it in a test fabric. Although it may be possible to use the fitting of the lining to ensure the fit of the fashion fabric. Obviously, with so much fabric on the line, you want to make sure it is something you love. If you have to buy fabric online, I would indulge and buy more fabric than a tiny swatches to make sure. 

You can find this at your local fabric store or online here: https://simplicity.com/vogue-patterns/v1963

[reflections-in-a-critical-eye]

How are youuuuu??? Life’s been boring lately (she said after being sick than her 4yo and now her 7yo) i want Jimin like it’s absurd cause he wasn’t there anyway before but i guess just the fact knowing he isn’t there makes me feel like that. Anyways i have been up to nothing good tried reading but im a mood reader and it sucks finding a captivating book after a good one. So i started to watch what we do in the shadows and im loving it like i started this week and im already in season 4 so. How have you been? How’s life? Any interesting books?series?movies?

Hiiii @5813 long time, no text 😄 I'm sorry to hear you and the kids were sick, I hope you all feel better now and stronger.

There's missing Jimin hours everyday, but I try not to think too much about where he is or what activities he has. The man went inside wearing Dior and now all we get is that stupid uniform. It's a very comforting thought that KM are together, otherwise I might have turned into a worried fan which is not quite characteristic of me.

As to the culture & entertainment corner, WWDITS is such a funny show. I'm on season 4 as well. I've watched The Righteous Gemstones which is like Succession with stupid people; I'm up to date with the latest season of True Detective and I'm enjoying the change of creative direction; lastly, I started watching The New Look, about Christian Dior's life in occupied Paris during WW2.

I get what you mean about being a mood reader, I get like that sometimes as well too. I recently read I want to die but I want to eat tteokbokki. I thought it would be interesting to see other people's conversation with their therapist/psychiatrist. I'm doing therapy myself. The conversations the author was having could sound so cold, too rational, lacking emotional expression of feelings. I felt this distance as a reader even though some experiences were similar. Cultural difference could be a factor here, but what I realized while telling my own therapist about the book, is that I have a similar way of talking during our sessions. It comes out of fear to be vulnerable. Anyway, reading it was like looking in a mirror eventually.

I also want to pick up next week Didion's Play It As It Lays. She is among my favorite essay writers and this will be my first work of fiction of hers that I will get to read so I'm excited.

[maysshortmoviereviews]

The New Look (2024 -)

🎬Explores the rise of fashion designer Christian Dior, as he dethrones Coco Chanel and helps return spirit and life to the world with his iconic imprint of beauty and influence.

A beautifully shot series set during and after World War II, I thoroughly enjoyed it. I left each episode with great admiration for Christian Dior and the stunning clothes—or rather, works of art—that he created. His love for his sister was truly heartwarming.

If you are interested in watching something about how life returned to normal after World War II, the creation of beautiful gowns, and the immense work and effort that went into it, then you will enjoy this series. I am told that some artistic liberties were taken to dramatise the story, so do not expect a documentary. 😊

[xltribe]

Look y'all XL's Featured Tribesmen Of The Week Jonathan Jackson and he doesn't disappoint. You all will learn about some stylish men that were not even on my radar but are now. So with out any further of due read on to Mr Jonathan Jackson interview and leave a comment about what you'll took away from this. 1. There are so many fashion brands available now, what do you still think is missing in menswear? Interesting question. I think we are in a very unique time in fashion, dare I say unprecedented. We are starting to embrace the beauty in all shapes and sizes publicly, which I think is long overdue! Now, the paradox in all of this is that we are so early in this process that it’s still relatively difficult for men and women of size and/or stature to find what they need to be on the bleeding edge of fashion without having a billion dollars or being clothier. To more directly answer your question, I think fashion needs to continue this push of catering to all shapes and sizes, we need boutique brands specifically focused on Big and Tall (Not DXL), and we need the major brands to provide a wider array of sizes in things other than shoes lol 2. What are some of your personal 2020 goals?  Personal goals:  -Establish an alternate source of income that generates $1200-$1500 monthly  -Decide if I’m getting another degree  -Extend my brand representation and secure at least 2 sponsorships  -Enroll in a cordwainer, cobbler, or sewing class. 3. What are some of your favorite brands and why? Clothes: High End: Thom Browne (loving the striped sleeves), Christian Dior Men (I had a really insightful conversation with a brand rep and I love the new direction), Amiri, All Saints, Louis Vuitton Other: Joseph Abboud, Banana Republic, Ted Baker, Amazon (you sleep if you not looking there too, one the low Fashionova Men. Shoes: Axel Arigato, Sia Collective (Almost impossible to cop a pair lol), John Gieger, Adidas, Saks 5th (they have a line of shoes and they are solid), Balenciaga, Brioni, Allen Edmonds, Johnston Murphy 4. How long have you been on the journey of being a Big & Tall man? What’s the biggest misconception you hear about Big & Tall Guys? Well, I came from a big and tall man, my seed will probably be a big and tall man, so basically my whole life lol. On the note of misconception, this may be a personal thing, but I think people perceive me as arrogant and it’s honestly the furthest thing from the truth. I’m super approachable and will literally talk to anyone. 5. If you could swap styles with one celebrity who would it be and why? It's hard to say… If we are talking streetwear I immediately think ASAP Rocky or Luca Saabat. If we are talking everything from casual to business attire I’m thinking Nick Wooster, Chadwick Boseman, or David Beckham. It all just depends. IG: @Thewkender_ Website: Thewkender.com

[unitmodeaveclillie]

i was asked to create a customer that you would target towards for looks you will see later on . i was asked to create someone from scratch and here is what i came up with :

My customer is going to be an older woman mid-forties to mid-fifties and she will be a influencer a performer specifically who is from south Korea who moved to America when she was 22 she went to daily lessons to learn English she is now fluent in Korean and English and uses both languages in her songs she has become very popular and is now on world tours.

She likes to wear outfits from the decades and specifically has an interest on the glamorised 20’s style she prefers to wear styles that are very high end such as haute couture when she is performing and designer brands. During her performance she has one to two outfit switches from when she’s doing slower songs and when she is at events.

She dosen’t have much time to go shopping however when she’s on tour she makes sure to have a day where she can go around shops to purchase in every country she wears designers such as Guo Pei, coco Chanel , Christian Dior , Valentino and other designers that are on the pricier side she finds elegant.

They aspire to continue to wear designer and haute couture however aspire to try new brands and new custom designers

Their lifestyle is busy and includes a lot of traveling, going to events, interviews and celebrity parties.

[saintmeghanmarkle]

Diorly beloved: the Christian path - a photo essay by u/Mickleborough

Diorly beloved: the Christian path - a photo essay This is how I think Meghan tried to get her bunion, I mean foot (cheap shot acknowledged) in the Dior.Daniel Martin claims to be one of Meghan’s dear friends; at least, he’s her makeup artist. He’s also a Dior Brand Ambassador. He created the look for her wedding. Flawless! 2018.Perhaps this, plus the minimum £200,000 / $256,000 she spent at Dior whilst a (cough) working member of the Royal Family meant that Dior took her calls after Megxit.Meghan resplendent in Dior at the British Ambassador’s in Morocco. A bit overdressed for a reception, really.The first public acknowledgement by Dior after Megxit was when Meghan appeared at the virtue-signalling Global Citizens Live concert in New York in September 2021. She carried a bag which had her initials on it: DSSOS, for DucheSSOfSussex. Clever!Dior Instagram: ‘Meghan Markle is the epitome of Dior elegance, as she steps out with her Lady DLite bag…’Apparently the bag sold out (it’s Dior, it’d have sold out anyway). Did this get her proper clothes at the late Queen’s Platinum Jubilee Service of Thanksgiving in June 2022?It’s literally (but not technically) an A-line. Dior Instagram: ‘…Meghan…celebrated the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee in Dior with a greige set composed of a made to measure trench coat, wool skirt, and silk shirt from the…Spring-Summer 2022 collection…’Meghan consolidated her position by wearing RTW Dior a month later, in July 2022, not allowing Glo Steinem to escape:You caught me! Dior Bermuda shops.Then sadly Queen Elizabeth II died. Why didn’t Dior didn’t provide Meghan with an outfit for the funeral in September 2022?Admittedly it’d have been tasteless merching it on Dior Instagram. Nonetheless Meghan did wear Dior: a hat, the black Odile to the white Odette worn at the Platinum Jubilee Thansgiving.Meghan and her stupid sun hat, compared to the headwear of the Duchess of Cornwall, the Duchess of Cambridge, Princess Charlotte, and the Duchess of Wessex.I’m guessing Meghan just ordered it from the milliner (Stephen Jones x Dior) - it doesn’t look like Dior took any trouble over it. And that’s pretty much all we’ve seen of Meghan in Dior. Did Dior’s interest wane? Or was in proportion to the public event that Meghan appeared at? Say if she’d turned up at the King’s coronation in May 2023, she might’ve been dressed by them; Harry certainly was. This suggests some low-key interest shown in Meghan by Dior: go to a high-profile event, and we might dress you. Collecting a Women of Vision award from the Ms Foundation doesn’t count (hence the last-season covering). Query whether the Ripple of Hope award in December 2022 scored Meghan a freebie gown from Louis Vuitton, which is owned by the same corporation as Dior.‘I’m sorry, you caught me in the shower.’There were reports of Harry showing up in London in 2023 wearing Dior shirts or suits or some such thing - keeping the Dior connection warm perhaps? And based on all this, Meghan hoped that she and Dior could come to some more formal arrangement…No more posts with bad Dior puns, promise. Unless it’s begging for it. post link: https://ift.tt/6m0Yrab author: Mickleborough submitted: June 20, 2023 at 01:19AM via SaintMeghanMarkle on Reddit

[mint-moon25]

‘TEENAGE - MUTANT - NINJA - TURTLES’ - 2014

MEGAN - FOX - 9 YEARS - AGO - TENTATIVE - 4

GRAHAM LANSING - AND - MEGAN - HAS - 90%

CHEMISTRY - I’M - GOING - 2 - ASK - ANDI MACK 

IF - SHE - AND - MILO - CAN - BECOME - BUT - 

STILL - INVOLVED - THEIR VERY - SELFISH - 

BESTFRIENDS - WHO - ARE - ONLY - INTO - 

THEMSELVES - MILO - AND - ANDI - WILL B - 

REPLACING - THEM - THIS - IS - STILL YOU - 

KNOW - WHAT - I’M - ASKING - IS - 

MEGAN FOX - WILL - U - B - YES - 

INTERESTED - IN - ACCOMPANYING - ME - 2 - 

BEIJING - CHINA - BEST - OLD - MALES - AS -

EXTREMELY GREAT WITH - ACUPUNCTURE - 

MEGAN - THEY - CAN - MAKE - U - LOOK 16 - 

AGAIN - BUT - YOUR - BEAUTIFUL - FACE - 

TODAY - LIKE - ME - WITH - MAKE UP ME - 

WILL - LOOK - AGE 19 - FR - AGE 59 - YES - 

TODAY - MEGAN - WITH - ACUPUNCTURE - 

CAN - U - LOOK - AGE 16 - THEY - CAN DO - 

IT - USUALLY VERY OLD - MALE DOCTORS - 

FR - 5′5 FT - ME - INTO - 5′9 FT - I - WANT - 2 - 

DO - RUNWAY - MODELING - AGAIN - IN - 

PARIS - FRANCE - CHRISTIAN DIOR AND - 

VALENTINO - CHANNEL - HOUSE - NOT -

ALL - MEGAN FOX - I - NEED - U 2 - LOOK - 

AGE 16 - FOR - REMAKE - OR - ‘PROM - PACT’ - 

2023 - DISNEY - CHANNEL HD - ORIGINAL - TV - 

MOVIE - 30 MARCH - THEN - DISNEY+ - ON 31 - 

FOR - ME - SELENA - AND - BRANDON LEE - 

REMEMBERED - SO - THIS - FILM - HAS - A -

DIFFERENT - MEANING - 2 - ME - SO WANT - 

2 - DO - REMAKE - BUT - LOOKING - AT THE - 

CHINESE - LOVE - TEST - COMPATIBILITY - 

ANDI - ONLY - HAS - 60% - WITH - AUSSIE - 

MELBOURNE - AUSTRALIAN - BLAKE DAPPER - 

AS - GRAHAM - 6 FT - SO - IS - MILO - AS ZACK - 

‘ZOMBIES’ - SO - MEGAN SINCE - YOU’RE 90% - 

LOVE - TEST - WITH - GRAHAM - I’M - VERY - 

INTERESTED - IN - MY - YOUTHFUL - AND - 

YOURS - AS - ACUPUNCTURE BRINGS US - 

BACK - 2 - TEENS - AT - AGE 16 - DISNEY’s - 

FAVORITE - GIRL - WITH - ORIGINAL TRUE - 

TV FILMS - ‘KIM POSSIBLE’ - 3RD REMAKE - 

‘FREAKY - FRIDAY’ - MEGAN FOX - ‘CAN U - 

B - AGE 16 - AGAIN’ - NEW - TAKE - MEGAN - 

NEW - STUDENT - JUNIOR - YEAR - AS YOU - 

AND - ANDI - ‘HARVARD’ - INTO - BOTH OF U -

GOT - ALONG - THERE - I - THINK - I - SAW - 

NORTHERN - SEATTLE - WHICH - MEANS - 

AMAZON - GO - GROCERY - ALSO - OR XO - 

NOT - SEATTLE - RAINS - ALL - THE - TIME - 

SHOWCASING - RAIN - MORE - THAT’s ALSO - 

DISNEY - SO - MEGAN - UPON - MOVING TO - 

SEATTLE - FR - MANHATTAN - NEW YORK NY - 

ALSO BORING - U R - A - WRITER - WHO - 

IS - TAKING - MASTERS - OF - LIBERAL - 

ARTS - HARVARD - JOURNALISM - YES - 

COLLEGE - ENGLISH - LITERATURE UR - 

ROMANTIC - ANDI - PHOTOGRAPHY -

AND LITERATURE - ALSO - U BOTH - 

WRITERS - ANDI - WITH - CAMERA -

ALL - THE - TIME - CHANGING - STORY - 

MEGAN - REMEMBER - LINDSAY LOHAN - 

‘LOLA’ - WELL - U - CHANGED - THEIR - 

SCHOOL - NEWSPAPER - CLEARLY - 2 - 

‘GO - BULLDOGS’ - HEADLINES

YOUTUBE - VIDEO - VLOGS AS

2 - ACTIVITIES - IN - SCHOOL

MILO - WILL - STILL - B - WITH

LA TOYA REYNOLDS - BUT - REMOVING - 

HIS - SCHOOL - NICKNAME - THAT - WAS - 

LAME - MILO - KNOWS - GUITAR - AND AS - 

MUSICAL - INSTRUMENTS - GO - WILL YES - 

APPLY - 2 - HARVARD - UNDER - GRANTS 2 - 

PAY - AUDITIONING - MUSIC - DEPARTMENT - 

CLASSICAL - GUITAR - LA TOYA - DANCER - 

HARVARD - BALLET - COMPANY - DANCES - 

BALLET - AUDITIONING - MEGAN - U HAVE - 

LOTS - OF - ENERGY - U - FORMED - 4 THE - 

SCHOOL - 

CHEROKEE INDIANS - AWARENESS CLUB 

WEARING - THEIR - FEATHERS - TEEPEE - 

WEEKEND - CAMPING - WEARING - THEIR - 

CLOTHES - SEWING - MACHINES - THOSE - 

WHO - ARE - NOT - CHEERLEADERS - HOW - 

2 B - PART - OF - ANOTHER - GROUP - AND - 

HAVE - FUN - EACH - MEETING - NOT JUST - 

LEARNING - ABOUT - CHEROKEE - INDIANS - 

BUT - DRESSING - LIKE - THEM - IN - YOUR - 

AFTER - SCHOOL - MEETINGS - BUT EACH - 

WEEKEND - LOTS - OF - TEEPEE - CAMPS - 

2 - HAVE - FUN - DO - HOMEWORK - 

TOGETHER - BBQ - GRILL - FOODS - 

HAVING - GREAT - TIME - AS - YES - 

STUDENTS - ALTERNATIVE - 2 - DRUNKS - 

ILLEGALLY - IN - PARTIES - IMMORAL YES - 

MATING - BOY - CRAZY - INSTEAD - OF XO - 

WAITING - 4 - TRUE - LOVE - 2 - HAPPEN - 

MORE - CLUB - WHOLESOME ACTIVITIES - 

GREAT - 4 - COLLEGE - RESUME - THEY - 

LOOK - AT - SCHOOL - AND - AFTER YES - 

SCHOOL - ACTIVITIES - SO - MOMENTS - 

WITH - GRAHAM - AS - YOU’RE - TRUE - 

PREPARING - 4 - WEEKEND - TEEPEE - 

IT - RAINS - U - AND - GRAHAM - BOTH - 

WET - WELL - U - HAVE - PERMISSION - 

4 - THE - GYM - AND - SO - U - SET UP - 

YOUR - CHEROKEE - INDIAN - TENT - 

AND - IT - GLOWS - OUTSIDE - AND - 

NICE - LIGHTS - INSIDE - SO - YOU - 

AND - GRAHAM - CHANGE - INSIDE - 

TENTS - AND - YOU’RE - HUNGRY - 

SMOKELESS - GRILL - LIGHT - CHARCOAL - 

HAVE - STEAKS - IN - COOLER WITH PLANT - 

BUTTER - AS - HE - PLAYS - BASKETBALL AS - 

U R - WATCHING - NETFLIX - KOREAN - YES - 

SUBTITLED - DRAMAS - ROMANCE COMEDY - 

AS - HE - EVENTUALLY - JOINS - YOU - AND - 

VERY - ROMANTIC - BOTH - OF - U - ARE - 

FALLING - 4 - EACH - OTHER - CAN - HE - 

JOIN - YOUR - CLUB - ‘ITS - COED’ - YES - 

GRAHAM - JOINS - WITH - HIS - NEW BLK - 

BEST - FRIEND - BASKETBALL - EXPERT 2 - 

SOME - CHEERLEADERS - ARE - ALSO - 

YOUR - MEMBERS - THINGS LIKE THIS - 

LAKE - SIDE - SO - U - AND - GRAHAM - 

SWIMMING - WEEKENDS - AS - YOUR - 

CLUB - MEGAN - I - WAS - THINKING - 

U - WERE - DIFFERENT - CLOTHES - WITH - 

ANDI - AND - ZACK - ALL - 3 - OF - U - ARE - 

MATCHING - I - WAS - THINKING - KOREAN - 

THEIR - HAIR - CLIPS - AND - U - ANDI - AND - 

MACK - ALL 3 - OF - U - ARE - MATCHING - 

CLOTHES - TRENDY - ALSO - U R - SET’G - 

THE - FASHION - 2 - THEIR - CLOTHES - 

WERE - BORING - ZACH - WILL - HAVE - 

MAKE UP - BECAUSE - HE - NEEDS IT - 

HE - WAS - SLIGHTLY - CHUBBY - HE - 

WILL - B - EXERCISING - 2 B - THINNER - 

TREADMILL - BUT - ALL - 3 - OF - U WILL - 

B - STYLISH - ANDI - AND - U - MEGAN - 

USE - SEWING - MACHINE - ZACH YES - 

HELPS - THRIFT - STORE - ALSO - SO - 

U - CAN - AFFORD - YOUR FASHIONS - 

LIKE - ‘THE - BRATZ: THE - MOVIE’ - 

JADE - VERY - FASHIONISTA - YES - 

HIGH SCHOOL - IS - TRENDY AS U - 

ANDI - ZACH ALWAYS - MATCHING - 

SO - MEGHAN - I’M - ASKING - 2 - DO - 

REMAKE - ASKING - ANDI - 2 - TAKE - 

THEIR - BEST FRIENDS - PLACES - 

BUT - STILL - STRONG - CO STARS - 

MEGAN - JOIN - ME - IN - BEIJING - BUT - 

I - THINK - AS - AGE 16 - U - WILL - JUST - 

B - PERFECT - 4 THIS - DISNEY TV FILM - 

DISNEY - AND - GBC - TV - PRESENTS - 

REMAKE - LEGAL - PERMISSION - FOR - 

‘PROM - PROMISE’

MEGAN FOX - AND - GRAHAM LANSING

BEN PLUNKETT AND LA TOYA REYNOLDS

CO-STARS - ANDI MACK - PHOTOGRAPHER

MEGAN - AND - ANDI

HARVARD UNIVERSITY

ENGLISH - LITERATURE

MEGAN - MASTERS - JOURNALISM

ZACH - CLASSICAL - GUITAR - MUSIC DEPT

LA TOYA - HARVARD - BALLET - COMPANY

BALLERINA

HARVARD - SCHOLARSHIP - FUND

AUDITIONS

GRAHAM - BASKETBALL - SCHOLARSHIP

HARVARD UNIVERSITY - MASSACHUSETTS

SO - MEGAN FOX - LET’s - GO - 2 - BEIJING

CHINA - ACUPUNCTURE - 2 - MAKE - US XO 

WAY - YOUNGER - LOOKING - OUR - YOUTH

RENEWED - AGAIN - I - WANT - 2 B - MODEL

PARIS - FRANCE - RUNWAY - AGAIN

CHRISTIAN DIOR - CHANNEL - VALENTINO

5′5 FT - TO - 5′9 FT - AS - ‘SUPER’ - MODEL

MEGAN - ACUPUNCTURE - MAKES - YOU

ALSO - SUPER - BRAIN - INTELLIGENT AS 

WE - LEARN - LANGUAGES - SUPER FAST

I - WANT - 2 B - ACTRESS - IN - KOREA AND

CHINA - ROCK - STAR - SING - AND DANCE

MEGAN - ANDI - FORMED - KOREAN - FAN - 

GROUPS - 4 - ITZY - AND - AESPA - THUS 4 - 

SENIOR - PROM 

PERFORMERS - ITZY - AND - AESPA

THEME - STILL - 80s - THEME - BUT 

THIS - TIME - ALL - LOOKED - IT YES

MORE - UMBRELLAS

SINCE - HIGH SCHOOL - ALSO - CO - STARS

PHILIPPINE - KATHRYN BERNARDO - DANIEL

PADILLA - KIM CHIU - AND - MISS - BARRETO

AS - STUDENTS - BECAUSE - MANY - PINOYS

PINAYS - ARE - STUDENTS - IN - SEATTLE WA

MAKE - IT - DIVERSE - STUDENTS - IN - YES

CALIFORNIA - NOT - JUST - HISPANICS AND

BLKS - THUS - ADDING - REVISION 2 - TRUE

ME - MY - FUTURE NAME - CAILEY BAILEY

3RD - DIRECTOR - MAIN WRITER - ADD - 2

EXECUTIVE - PRODUCER - ‘TV’ - REMAKE

SO - MEGAN - CONSIDER - MY PROPOSAL

USA - $900 BILLION - X 2 - PER - HOUR AS - 

WHERE - WE - FILM - READING - SCRIPT - 

THE - MALDIVES - THUS - THEIR - MONEY - 

900 BILLION PLUS - $900 BILLION PER HR - 

TAX - PAID - LIMITED - HRS - DAILY - ALSO - 

BUT - HOURLY - PAID - $900 BILLION - X 2 - 

MEGAN - SO CONSIDER - MY PROPOSAL - 

LOVED - ‘TEENAGE - MUTANT - NINJA - 

TURTLES’ - NEW YORK - SEEN - YOUR - 

OTHER FILMS - THANKS - SO MUCH - 

CAN’T - WAIT - 2 - MEET - U - MEGAN

[websevense-blog]

Best Women's Handbag Trends for the New Season 👜👧 🥰 #women #handbags #bags #newtrend #fashion #bags #totebag #handbagmurah #purse #leatherbag #wallet #shopping #waistbag #luxury #fashionista #top #upcoming

[mindynichole]

Ummm Guys... @Twdmusicboxmystery ... you might want to come take a look!

Because I agree that Emily's recent Instagram stories have been interesting as heck!

This post is in response to a conversation that @twdmusicboxmystery posted between herself and her Team Delusional gals about some of Emily's recent social media activity. I did not reblog for space's sake but you can find her full post HERE...

So....in the @twdmusicboxmystery post one of the things she and her friends mention is this story that Emily shared within the last couple of days:

Being who I am, of course that meant I decided to do a little internet sleuthing...

And it didn't take me long to learn that this was a marketing story from Junona Fashion House's official Instagram page. They are a fashion designer for little girls clothing made and designed in Europe. Imagine my surprise to learn that it was specifically an advertisement story for their PARIS COLLECTION - which was a little buried on the page.

Look familiar?

Yeah? Well it gets better...Wait for it...

Because Norman decided to also post today on Instagram and this is what he had to say:

He also posted this story as well:

Here's the Lyrics for Mountain Song by Jane's Addiction.

....meaning the new Daryl Spin-Off started filming today (Monday, October 24, 2022.)

This actually surprised me because Norman was just in Cincinnati filming for a movie last week:

So does anyone else find it quite the coincidence Emily would be posting about the Paris collection of an European fashion designer just the weekend prior to the filming starting for the Daryl spin off - that is also conveniently happening in Paris?

But what about the Christmas movie?

Another thing that the gals in @twdmusicboxmystery post talk about is how Emily has been sharing a lot of stuff related to her new Lifetime Christmas movie: Santa Bootcamp.

This movie must have filmed months ago because it will be coming out on November 19, 2022 and they are already heavily promoting it:

I'm pretty sure that she's just trying to do her part to also promoting it on Instagram. This movie also features 2 deaf actors which might explain the script Emily shared last summer mentioning sign language that I speculated might be referring to Connie. Opps...

Another thing interesting is Christian Serratos (Rosita) has also been in Paris for the last couple of weeks doing a Dior photo shoot and promotional things for the designer. However, she posted several photos on Instagram yesterday from Paris (indicating she is still there) and one of them includes a salon full of Zombie busts. Therefore, Rosita could be connected somehow - though IDK why they wouldn't have announced this already since they've had no reason not to announce everybody on the show whose also participating on these new spin-offs.

Anyway, thoughts anyone?

[audreydoeskaren]

Hello, I sorry for asking so many questions. I have just found your site and really enjoyed all the new information you gave. With your knowledge on qipao, It would be very interesting to hear your review and thoughts on the historical accuracy in costumes in movies like "In the Mood for Love", "Lust Caution", "Flowers of Shanghai", " Raise the Red Lantern".

No need to apologize! I love answering asks and I'm more than happy to review period dramas. The writing got rather long so I’ll review In the Mood for Love and Lust, Caution first, the other two will be in a separate post. Quick disclaimer, I’m not a professional costume designer so everything is my two cents, if you found something you disagree with feel free to comment :))

In the Mood for Love (2000) 花样年华

In the Mood for Love is a 2000 Hong Kong romantic drama film written, produced, and directed by Wong Kar-wai. Its original Chinese title means "Flowery Years". It tells the story of a man (played by Tony Leung) and a woman (Maggie Cheung) whose spouses have an affair together and who slowly develop feelings for each other. (copy and pasted from Wikipedia) It's set in 1962 Hong Kong, so we're looking at 1960s Hong Kong cheongsam for the costumes. This movie is widely considered the pinnacle of 1960s cheongsam costuming and I agree. The costume designer is 张叔平 Zhang Shuping, who in my opinion makes fabulous 20th century costumes but questionable historical ones.

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Maggie Cheung's character in an abstract print, cap sleeved cheongsam.

The 1960s cheongsam had the extreme hourglass, Christian Dior New Look bombshell silhouette. The figure was accentuated by pointy bullet bras and girdles/corsets that cinched the waist. Because of the rigid shapewear, 60s cheongsam commonly had very sharp angles at the torso and wasn't streamlined at all. 60s cheongsam were usually knee length, with slits that went up to the middle of the thighs (could be shorter or longer according to personal preference). They had a high, stiffened collar that tapers dramatically at the front, closing with one or no buttons. They were either sleeveless or cap sleeved. Zippers would be used at the side and snap buttons at the front closures, replacing the fabric pankous that dominated cheongsam prior to the 1950s. 1950s and 60s cheongsam often had no visible buttons. Common fabrics used were printed or embroidered silks (e.g. the stereotypically Chinese looking fabrics with dragon or roundel motifs), cotton, rayon or any other household dress weight fabrics. Common print patterns were abstract, geometric or floral prints. Unlike 1930s and 40s cheongsam, 50s and 60s cheongsam weren’t heavy on trimmings, binding or other raw edge decoration. All of these features are perfectly recreated by Zhang's costuming for Maggie Cheung's character. My only minor qualm is that sometimes the collar looks too big? On old photographs they usually look very fitted to the wearer's neck.

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Sleeveless floral print cheongsam.

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Photograph of 1950s/60s Hong Kong.

Besides the cheongsam itself, the accessories, hair and makeup for Maggie Cheung's character are also on point. The 60s beehive and curled hairstyles, high arched eyebrows and plump lips are present. She wears high stiletto heels true to the period.

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Her hair and makeup is immaculate.

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Stiletto heels. Not sure if you could see them but the seam lines on the stockings are a nice touch.

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These pointy sunglasses are also very accurate.

Overall I’d say that In the Mood for Love has very accurate costumes. As to whether they’re appropriate for the plot, I don’t really know cause I haven’t watched the full movie (I probably should). I like that beside the accuracy, all the cheongsam worn by Maggie Cheung are also very beautiful and well made, making it an aesthetic viewing experience. I’d rate the costuming in this movie 9/10.

Lust, Caution (2007) 色，戒

Lust, Caution is a 2007 erotic espionage period film directed by Ang Lee, based on the 1979 novella by Eileen Chang. The story is set in Hong Kong in 1938 and in Shanghai in 1942, when it was occupied by the Imperial Japanese Army and ruled by the puppet government led by Wang Jingwei. It depicts a group of Chinese university students from The University of Hong Kong who plot to assassinate a high-ranking special agent and recruiter working for the puppet government, by using one of their group, an attractive young woman, to lure him into a honey trap. (copy and pasted from Wikipedia) So for this movie we’re looking at the late 30s and early 40s cheongsam styles. The costume designer here is Lai Pan.

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Protagonist played by Tang Wei in an early 40s cheongsam.

In the late 30s, the cheongsam was still floor length and flowy, but the design has become less extravagant than early 30s styles. In the 40s, the length shortened to knee length. The collar dropped in height and was closed by one or two buttons (pankou in this era). Cheongsam were either short or cap sleeved, and the slits became lower. Unlike cheongsam of the 1950s and 60s portrayed in The World of Suzie Wong and In the Mood for Love, 30s and 40s cheongsam did not use Western tailoring techniques i.e. darts, so they were only loosely form fitting. Common fabrics used were cotton, rayon, silk or polyester. Print patterns were geometric, plaid or floral. Unicolor cheongsam were common too. The front and side closure was still closed by pankou, one or two at the collar, one or two at the placket and many more at the side depending on slit height. Piping was very popular in the late 30s and early 40s as both decoration and practical feature. All trimmings prior to the 1950s, piping included, went around the neck as well and that’s portrayed in this movie. Overall the cheongsam in this movie are pretty good but I found some questionable things with accessories. The plot also spans many years and the costumes represent a lot of character development, so I’ll go through the costumes by chronological order. 

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Collage of scenes from when the protagonist was younger and a student. The blue color is perhaps a reference to Indanthrene fabrics, which were very popular among students and usually came in a shade of dark blue. The low collar, longer sleeves and loose fitting silhouette are all pretty accurate to late 1930s student clothing. Straight hair was acceptable on younger women, commonly in the length portrayed here and with a side part.

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Early 1930s Indanthrene fabric ad. I though Tang’s character looked a lot like the woman in this picture.

Later on as Tang’s character takes on a socialite persona to seduce the guy, she starts wearing more glamorous versions of the late 30s cheongsam. I like that compared to In the Mood for Love where Maggie Cheung just wears a bunch of different cheongsam because she can, the costumes in Lust, Caution serve characterization. At first Tang’s character stuck to the blue color as a remnant of her true personality, and every time she reunites with her fellow resistance people, she also wears simpler, more toned down cheongsam. She also changed to curled hairstyles to look more mature, most of which were accurate for the early 40s. However, the hairstyles in this movie sometimes look a bit disheveled and not perfectly smooth and shiny like you usually see in old Hollywood movies, but that’s just a minor aesthetic issue I guess.

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A cheongsam look from the movie. The short cap sleeve/borderline sleeveless look, the short collar, piping and simple pankou are all accurate to the period. The print looks legit, the pulled back curled hair is also pretty ok. There seems to be a seam at the shoulder, which shouldn’t be there, but not all 30s and 40s cheongsam followed the historical dressmaking method so it’s fine I guess.

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Early 40s pinup poster showing women in similar cheongsam and hairstyles.

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Scene showing some support characters who also look quite convincingly late 30s/early 40s. I like the variety in hairstyles and the insertion sleeves worn by two of the women. Also poodles hairstyle representation is great.

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Late 30s/early 40s pinup poster.

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40s pinup poster showing poodles hairstyle.

There is one scene toward the end where Tang’s character wears a Western style suit with a jabot scarf, I couldn’t find a good quality photo of it but I love that look and think it’s super fierce.

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She wears something like this but with a different hat.

However, this movie is not without problems. The jackets/coats worn by Tang’s character also don’t have the deciding late 30s/early 40s characteristics, such as a flared hem, fitted waist and wide shoulders. Maybe the outerwear was made based on vintage originals but the final result isn’t quite there, it’s especially unfortunate considering how a lot of passers by in the background have convincing 30s/40s outerwear but the main character doesn’t. 

What I really do not understand is their insistence on bucket hats?? Maybe they were trying to do the 30s tilted derby hat impression but their hats are way too deep with too narrow brims and also don’t have the same structure. It’s also way past the time for cloche hats. Tang’s character is not the only one to wear it, a lot of extras also don bucket hats. I’m like ???? Maybe it was a conscious decision to show that Chinese women didn’t regularly wear hats and only did so in rainy weather, but I mean, when it was raining you would use umbrellas, not bucket hats. In my opinion, there are a lot of other 30s and 40s hat styles that give way better espionage realness than bucket hats could ever dream of. Also, the lack of women’s gloves of any kind in this movie pains my heart. 30s and 40s gloves and hats were very cool so I lament the missed opportunities.

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Scene where Tang’s character is outside. This summarizes most of my qualms with the costuming in this movie. The jacket and hat look too modern. The shoes also look like they don’t have heels that curve inward enough?

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The bucket hat strikes again in this scene...

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1939 coats.

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Hats from 1938. 

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Butterick magazine from 1938. In my headcanon Tang wore hats and gloves like these.

Another minor problem I have is the makeup. Judging by the pointed eyebrows they were probably going for the 40s look more (although in China the plucked eyebrow trend lasted well into the 40s). The lipstick is not overdrawn and just stuck to Tang’s natural lip shape, but it would probably be better if the cupid’s bow area were overdrawn a little toward the outside to make the upper lip more rounded and heart shaped. Tang’s cupid bow is kind of pointed and not exactly true to that era.

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Closeup of Tang’s makeup.

Source here

1940s makeup look.

Overall I’d say that the clothing in this movie is solid, it’s just the accessories that sometimes broke the suspension of disbelief (especially the fucking bucket hats). I’d rate the costuming in this movie a 7/10.

That’s it for this post, I’ll review Flowers of Shanghai and Raise the Red Lantern next time.

[eveningoftheempires]

ROs' fashion senses? And what is the fashion like in the world in general?

Oh anon, you have absolutely HIT the mark with this question. I am a giant fashion nerd and fashion of EotE is something I’ve been working on for SO long, thanks for letting me ramble about it!!

So, I’m gonna preface this post with a little general description of the fashion in the world of Uria. A lot of parts of EotE are inspired by the 19th century, which may seem vague, as that is whole 100 years, but hey - it is fantasy, so I am mostly borrowing elements of the real world here and there while leaving out others. Therefore the fashion itself is rooted in the different styles of 19th century, with a heavier focus on the first part of 1800s. I’ve incorporated elements of fashions from all around of our world, because... it would be just weird to focus exclusively on western world’s aestheticism for a whole fantasy universe, especially as big as this one lol. Besides for historical inspirations, I do like to imagine fashion of Uria with a bit of a modern high couture vibe - think Valentino, Guo Pei, Christian Dior, Elie Saab, Zuhair Murad...

So yeah, that is a bit what the general inspirations behind the fashion of EotE are like! Of course not everyone is out there walking in outfits straight out of fashion plates; lower classes tend to wear more toned-down, practical garments, without as much flair. Styles vary from region to region as well. I may one day write a post elaborating more on that, but then this post would be enormously long nvjkfdnvkjnfdknk

So, with this out of the way, let us get into ROs fashion senses!

Laurent: Without a doubt they are the one most up to with different fashion trends, and the one who is in a position to actually dress stylishly. However, their clothing choices are not the most fabulous. They value high quality materials and fashionable silhouettes, but tend to pick out simpler garments, without as many fancy accessories as other nobles prefer. (They do have a weak spot for fancy shoes, though. Buy them nice shoes and you will own their heart.) They are mosty seen wearing deep, toned colours, like bottle green, navy blue or grape purple, with elements such as silk shirts, fitting embroidered vests, straight simple trousers or skirts, and ankle-height shoes on small heels.

Seraphim: Even though personally they do not hold much interest in fashion, given their job as the Royal Spymaster they have to blend in with the crowds. Therefore, their outfits really range depending on what circumstances they are working with at the moment. So basically, you may see them in any and all kinds of garments. They DO however, more often than not, wear different capes (most with weapons, poisons or documents hidden in small pockets inside) and tend to lean more towards practicality over aesthetics. Therefore, you won’t see them in any delicate, flowy fabrics, moreso something sturdy and, preferably, easily washed. Blood on clothes makes people talk too much.

Vael: Oh, Vael’s fashion sense is personally my favourite. Imagine a gay pirate. That’s it, that’s their vibe <3 A lot of open button-downs, high waisted leather pants along with many leather belts, tight-length boots, huge amount of jewelry and piercings, colorful scarfs worn both on the neck and as a hair adornment... There is a lot going on in their outfits for sure! They may not exactly be considered “fashionable” or “proper” by good society, but Vael could not care less about how people perceive them, honestly - they know what they want to look like and, in my humble opinion, they look flawless in their own right.

Min: Their fashion choices are certainly... something. Min doesn’t have much resources to dress according to newest trends given their social standing, but boy, do they leave an impression with their looks wherever they go! They always choose very colorful, bright garments, often contrasting with each other. A range array of patterns and textures can be noticed in their clothes as well. They enjoy mixing and matching items that shouldn’t go well with each other, but... somehow they make it work?

Noor: Although they do not get many occassions to dress up (they can be mostly seen in armor), they do have a deep running love for finery and like to keep up with the trends as much as possible. Their best friend is a talented craftsman, and whenever Noor buys a new garment, they run straight to him to alter it for their tastes and to make it more fashionable. Even their everyday outfits meant for adventuring do have a bit of a flair to them - some handsewn ornaments on the sleeves and collar of their jacket, some frills here and there, perhaps an embroidery of tiny jewels on boots... They strongly enjoy these small details, even if they are the only ones aware of them.

Orion: They have a particular color palette when it comes to all their outfits: particularily white, black and shades of grey. It is only partially a personal preference; it mostly stems from their days in the Ienowan Assassin’s Guild, which uses these specific hues as a way for the members to recognise each other. Other than that, they appreciate straight, precise cuts and simple shapes in their outfits, as well as soft and flexible materials. Orion does have a bit of a liking towards jewelry, although they keep these ornaments simple as well - nothing beyond iron rings or chained necklaces.

Again, thank you so much for the question, and sorry if I went a bit overboard with it! <3

[girlsdressingrooms]

Mr Pierre Cardin, the French-Italian fashion designer whose futuristic clothes shaped the mod aesthetic of the 1960s and influenced generations of designers, died today at the age of ninety-eight in Neuilly-sur-Seine, France. His death was reported by the French Academy of Fine Arts.

Known for his sleek, architectural designs worn by celebrities from Jackie Kennedy to the Beatles, Cardin was also an astute businessman, bringing to the general public via mass production designs typically reserved for the rarefied world of haute couture, and licensing his name to products from perfume to pickles, alarm clocks to Android tablets. Unlike many of his peers, he oversaw his business for the span of his entire career, refusing overtures from corporations and individuals alike.

Born Pietro Cardin in Italy in 1922, Mr Cardin was a teenager living in France when he changed his name to Pierre. Beginning his career as a local tailor’s apprentice, he went to work for Jeanne Pacquin, Elsa Schiaparelli, and then, in 1946, for the fledgling Christian Dior, where, as head of the tailoring department, he contributed to the development of the New Look for which Dior would become famous.

In 1950, he established the House of Cardin, which quickly became known for its geometric cutouts and bold, ballooning profiles. In 1959, he created his first ready-to-wear collection and was summarily kicked out of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne (the organization eventually let him back in, after many of its members followed his lead). 

The following year, he branched out into men’s ready-to-wear, and over the ensuing decade changed the shape of menswear, offering a slim profile that would come to define the look of the decade, as did his womenswear, streamlined space-age dresses, and miniskirts that reflected his interest in space travel and minimalism.

Over the next fifty years, Cardin expanded his empire, allowing his designs to be mass-produced in China and then in the Soviet Union, the latter sold in Cardin boutiques in Moscow. His licensing ventures encompassed luxe auto interiors, modular desks, and convertible couches, as well as less exalted objects like cigarettes and cassette tapes. 

In 1981, he purchased the fabled Paris restaurant Maxim’s and promptly licensed that brand as well. He designed for dance troupes and rockers, and staged avant-garde events at his L’Espace Cardin, a repurposed nightclub on the Champs-Élysées. 

Later years saw him undimmed and his work coming to be reappraised and appreciated: In 2014 he established a Paris institution dedicated to his work, the Past-Present-Future Museum, and in 2017 he opened a new Paris boutique featuring his new designs meant to be worn by the city’s bright young things. That same year, an exhibition of his oeuvre at the posh Breakers mansion in Newport, Rhode Island, drew more than one hundred thousand visitors.

Monsieur Pierre Cardin In his studio, in 1960,

Pierre Cardin, Uniforms for the French Nurses, 1970,

The “Cosmocorps” collection, 1968, © Pierre Cardin,

Paul McCartney, George Harrison, Ringo Starr and John Lennon wearing Pierre Cardin in 1963,

Raquel Welch photographed in 1970 by Terry O'Neill in Pierre Cardin’s vinyl miniskirt and necklace; Plexiglas visor. Photo: © Terry O’Neill / Iconic Images / Courtesy of Iconic Images,

Pierre Cardin Haute Couture, 1969,

Celia Hammond and Patty Boyd in Pierre Cardin Helmets, photographed by John French, 1965,

Sketch for a “Cardine” minidress, 1968, left, and the “egg carton” dress realized. ”You can wash it, pack it—it never crushes, never loses its shape—and wear it straightaway,” Vogue noted approvingly. Photos: Courtesy Archives Pierre Cardin / © Archives Pierre Cardin,

2008, Théoule-sur-Mer, Pierre Cardin Haute Couture Creation, Palais Bulles Shooting, Sunflower Dress.