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coppolafrancis · 6 years ago

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How I photograph jewelry on myself

When it comes to shooting jewelry on the body, some would say leave it to the youngsters or leave it to the pros. Judging from the images we’re bombarded with at every turn, a woman should never attempt the jewelry selfie after age 40.

Trust me, it’s easier to get a good image of jewelry on a younger woman. But I don’t always have one handy, and sometimes I feel like… I don’t know, maybe we need a little reality? After all, it’s women my age who buy and wear much of the jewelry I show on this site. Is there not a way to find the beauty in my own demographic – or even my mother’s?

A few years ago, I began shooting jewelry on my hand. There were pieces that begged to be shown in context. I’ve been shooting jewelry on this hand since 2006 when I reported on a famous Christie’s auction. Here is an unretouched, unfiltered example from my Instagram a couple years ago. I’ve posted so many shots of this hand since then, I should start a #mylefthand hashtag. My right hand holds the phone.

Yup, after years of lugging around a Nikon and then a Canon Rebel, I’ve been shooting these with my iPhone and sometimes a little clip-on macro lens. The multi-talented Monica Stephenson of idazzle turned me onto that gadget at a World Gold Council conference one year. Be warned: it will not only show every inclusion in the stone and brush stroke on the metal but every pore and crease on your hand as well.

Now that’s what I really look like most of the time: scowling in concentration at a screen of some sort. This shot was taken at the AGTA Spectrum Awards press preview last year. That’s the little clip-on lens I mentioned. My oh-so-professional photography setup these days? You’re looking at it. Total cost (minus iPhone): $35.

I drew the line at photographing my hand until a couple years ago at the Couture show. I’d been trying on jewelry then photographing it on the 20something women who work those booths, until someone offered to take it on me. A couple of those shots turned out surprisingly well. (A good sales assistant these days not only knows the inventory but also how to style a shot, work a smart phone, and shoot for the Instagram crowd.) I posted one from the show floor and it got a warm response.

Here’s one taken by a male sales staffer at Todd Reed’s booth at that show. Since I couldn’t ask him to model these jewels for me, I handed him my phone, and sat on a stool.

Granted, that is an amazing collection and most people were “liking” the jewelry itself. But I believe a large part of the success of Todd’s work is that it looks as good on the female body as it does in the case. And, y’know, that is what it was designed for: to be worn by a living, breathing, non-airbrushed female. To me, that is the true test of a piece of jewelry.

I used a filter on that shot to bleach out the shadows. See that brown patch on my hand? I was in such deep shadow, it looked like a birthmark in the original. Trade show lighting is wicked. (My advice if you find yourself shooting indoors under track lights: back up a bit and get out of the spotlight.) The right filters do wonders to even out skin tone without erasing all detail. I hate that fake blurred effect left by overuse of the eraser tool. I like that you can still see my freckles and the texture of my skin. My goal is to show jewelry not in the photoshopped perfection of a magazine ad but the way it looks on a real, live woman.

This image of me wearing jewelry by Colette was taken by the playful sales staff who work that designer’s booth. It too was filtered and cropped but not retouched. It takes a few shots to get one I can use, but guess what? It always takes a few, even when you’re photographing flawless youth. A good assistant knows to keep shooting. A really good one adjusts your hair a bit and suggests you move your hand up or down slightly or shift your body to the left, out of the shadow.

Here’s a shot of me from Couture 2017 wearing a new black-diamond collection by Antonini of Milano (with my own earrings by Shana Kroiz). At the time, I posted this with a joke about how beautiful jewelry can light me up even after being up all night on a red-eye flight. My eyes were glazed but the smile was real. People responded to the jewelry – and this particular jewelry was made to be worn, with a simple linen dress like I was wearing.

Now I want to address another kind of self portrait most of us have to produce at some point: the professional head shot. If you look at the upper left corner of this site, you’ll see my most recent. I paid a pro and it took many shutter clicks to get a usable image. I’m not real comfortable in front of a camera and she kept saying, “Big smile!” Some people smile beautifully on demand. Me, not so much.

Nevertheless, she ended up with some great images I could never have produced on my own. I recommend springing for a pro, if you can. That shoot cost $350, including a stylist who did hair and makeup. I’ve paid half that for quickie head shots at conferences, where you can get in on a group rate. The speed-shoot on the sidewalk with a handheld reflector works fine for me. Studios make me nervous.

But sometimes you just don’t have time or cash for a professional shoot, in which case… you can do it yourself. I produced my own head shots for years. As a busy magazine freelancer, I had to provide 300dpi (print quality) images at a moment’s notice whenever an editor needed to fill their contributors page. At first, I relied on one I’d paid for at a photographer’s studio, but it looked like a mug shot you’d use for a passport. I needed images that could run large and made you want to turn to my story – the one my bio was referring to. So I started taking them myself to fit the subject matter I was writing about.

I shot this against the stucco wall of my balcony with my camera set up on a tripod. I was facing the late afternoon sun on an overcast day. A remote would have made my job easier and they’re available cheap now but I didn’t have one then. I would focus my camera on the wall, set the self timer, and run madly around to sit facing the lens, trying to look casual. Not ideal! But no editor ever complained. I used this image for stories on art and travel. I thought it said: smart, outdoorsy, not too formal.

As I began to write more about jewelry, however, I felt I should have one that showed… jewelry, and didn’t look so severe. As Jera Lodge put it in my last post on this topic, I was going for “serious but not pissed off.”

So I set up my camera again and came up with this one.

If I’d known my hand would end up in the shot I’d have put a ring on it. A gust of wind blew my hair in my face just before the shutter clicked and I kinda liked the result. I remember the designer I profiled in the issue of Art & Antiques where this head shot first appeared sent me a message raving about it. I thought, wow, maybe I really can pull this off. You can see the difference in quality between this and the professional shot on my About page, but it’s not bad.

If you have to rely on one head shot for everything – your website, bios, social media – consider investing in a good one. But if you need to produce them on an ongoing basis and know your way around a camera, experiment a little.

My flesh is more textured than it once was and carries souvenirs from various mishaps and decades in the wind and sun. I’m well-traveled and I’ve had my share of sleepless nights. My hands have worked hard, soaked in darkroom chemicals, dug up a dozen gardens. Mostly, I’m just getting older, like everyone else lucky enough to stick around a while.

But I’d like to think I have a different kind of beauty now, just as you do. It’s a little harder to photograph but I’m learning and, fortunately, I know my way around basic photo-editing tools. I’ve been touching up images for decades. With the tools that come bundled on your computer or mobile device, you can easily crop and sharpen and saturate. Worse comes to worse, there are these things called “filters.”

Where jewelry is concerned, good product shots are crucial. But for the same reason I’m always harping on about wearability, I believe there is something lacking when you rely solely on product shots. They present jewelry as an object to be admired in the abstract. But jewelry is not something we hang on the wall or put on a pedestal. We hang it from our necks, ears and wrists, pin it to our lapels and stack it on our fingers. And by “we,” I don’t mean just flawless 25-year-olds.

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photographycentreblog-blog · 5 years ago

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Different types of cameras

Being a photographer requires tremendous skill, talent, and patience. But to be able to produce beautiful images that perfectly capture every emotion every glorious day, there is one thing that every photographer need: the best camera for the job. Photography is a demanding job that requires a high-performance DSLR camera designed and built to not only meet but exceed the photographer’s needs in terms of speed and image quality.

A lot of people often love to click pictures when they travel to different locations. I am one of them too which is why it is important that we purchase a good quality camera if we wish to capture our experiences properly.

You might feel that purchasing a high-end and more technologically advanced camera from the start would be a wise choice, but it is not. Because until you get a hang of photography and how to manipulate angles successfully, your camera will remain just a piece of metal for you.

These travel camera picks will suit a wide range of budgets, needs, and expertise levels. Our picks are ordered in approximate order of budget, from lower budget models through to higher end models.

So, getting a compact and sturdy travel camera in the start is actually a better decision. I, myself, researched a lot when I bought my first DSLR and I still wish that I had done a little more planning before I purchased it.

In this guide, I have listed down the best entry-level cameras that can be considered for beginners.

Things to Consider When Purchasing a Travel Camera

This is an important one. Cameras vary wildly in price, from a couple of hundred dollars up to thousands of dollars. So, you definitely need to think about how much you want to spend. Also, this is a travel camera. Whilst you want to get the best shots, travel can expose you to risks, from loss to theft. Obviously, these are things that can be mitigated against with insurance, but it’s something to bear in mind when making an investment – the pricier the camera, the higher the insurance premium.

Here are a few things that you should definitely consider when choosing a travel camera for yourself.

Consider the Type of Camera

There are several types of cameras available in the market which differs from each other in terms of weight, size, price, etc. So, make sure you check them out and look at both the pros and cons before deciding for yourself.

Point and Shoot Camera

For people who aren’t travel professionals and don’t care much about photography controls, a Point and Shoot camera would be a good choice. It will allow you to take amazing photographs without having to bother too much with the settings.

However, you won’t be able to manually set the photograph settings or take pictures in raw. But, it is certainly the least expensive option as a travel camera.

Mirrorless Cameras

If weight, size, etc. matters to you a lot then a Mirrorless camera would be an ideal choice for you. A mirrorless camera doesn’t include a mirror reflex optical viewfinder. As a result, it is lightweight but still allows you to change the lenses. Mirrorless cameras allow you to swap and change lenses like a DSLR, but because the mirror inside the camera has been removed (hence the name, with mirrors used to bounce light from the path of the lens up into the optical viewfinder of a DSLR), it has allowed designers to make mirrorless cameras much more compact than DSLRs.

Another great thing about this camera is that it shows you the real-time effect of ISO and Aperture adjustments. So, you don’t have to guess too much about the outcome and know that what you see is what you actually get.

Digital SLR Cameras

Although Mirrorless cameras have given DSLRs a tough competition, DSLR still comes out at the top in terms of quality. Ideally, a DSLR camera is great for action photography and wildlife photography. While mirrorless cameras are good, they don’t offer as many lens options as a DSLR camera.

So, if you want more lens options, faster focus, and more control over photo manipulations, then DSLR is the best choice. Sure, it is a little bulky but it will allow more flexibility to you.

Underwater Cameras

If you plan to take a lot of underwater photographs then you would need to check out a waterproof camera. These cameras will not only take amazing pictures underwater but will also allow you to capture the marine life on film.

There are many point and shoot cameras which can click decent photographs underwater. However, GoPro is still considered the best choice for underwater photography.

Are you planning to take a video too?

Another important thing that you should consider is if you are planning to make videos and vlogs too. If the answer is yes, then you might need to consider a camera with a good resolution option. Also, a flip screen would make it convenient for you to take the shots.

Budget – How much do you have to spend on a travel camera?

Let’s face it, the budget plays a major role when choosing a travel camera for yourself. You don’t want something too costly initially because taking care of your camera equipment is no piece of cake. Your camera bag could get lost or stolen while traveling so, always make sure you spend a reasonable amount of money at the start.

Consider Some Additional Camera Features

Make sure that you check out for some additional features too. One of the most important and convenient features is the inbuilt Wi-Fi in your camera. This allows you to connect the camera with your phone on the go, allowing you to transfer pictures when you are traveling too.

Weight – How much are you willing to carry around?

This is a really important question. If you’re the kind of person who likes to travel light, then you’re not going to want a bulky DSLR. Having the best travel camera that sits in your hotel room while you’re out having fun isn’t going to be much use.

Even a mirrorless system might be too much for you if you want something that will truly fit in your pocket or purse, and your best bet is probably a smartphone or compact camera.

On the other hand, if image quality and low-light performance are more important to you than weight, and you’re happy carrying spare lenses, filters, and other accessories, then you’ll likely be looking at a mirrorless or DSLR system.

Entry-level DSLR bundles

If you're buying your first DSLR, it makes sense to buy it as a kit, which generally includes the camera body along with an 18-55mm lens. Often referred to as a 'kit' lens, this covers a pretty broad zoom range, perfect for everything from landscapes to portraits – but that's just the start.

A word of warning, though. Look closely and manufacturers will often offer two types of kit lens, one with image stabilization and one without. Normally there's not much difference in price, so make sure to go for the kit with the image-stabilized lens as it'll make it easier to sharper images at slower shutter speeds.

These kinds of lenses are more than adequate to get you started, but the key advantage of DSLRs over compact cameras is that you can add to your kit with additional lenses. For example, wide-angle and telephoto zoom lenses, as well as high-quality macro options. You can also add a flashgun and other accessories, which help you to make the most of whatever types of photography you're into.

1. Nikon D3500

Not the flashiest camera here, but we reckon it's the best right now

The D3500 picks up from where the D3400 (below) left off, and it arrives with a handful of extra perks. The battery now lasts for 1,550 images between charges, which is way ahead of most other DSLRs, while the new 24MP sensor delivers excellent image quality. Nikon also revised the body and control layout, not only to make it nicer to handle but easier to use, while the Guide Mode takes the first-time user's hand and walks them through all the key features in a way that makes everything easy to understand. We love it – and we reckon you will too.

PROS

Excellent image quality

Easy to use

No touchscreen control

CONS

Bluetooth, but no Wi-Fi

2. Nikon D3400

Knocked off the top spot, but still a great buy

It may have been replaced by the D3500, but don't discount the D3400. Sporting a range of features perfect for the novice user, this is still a great camera to get started on the road to more creative photography. Sharing many of the same internal specs as the D3500, the battery life is brilliant, while the images from the 24MP sensor won't disappoint.

Pros

Superb battery life

Good single-shot AF

No microphone ports

Cons

No touchscreen

3. Canon EOS Rebel T7i / Canon EOS 800D

One of the best options out there, but a bit pricey

The EOS Rebel T7i (known as the EOS 800D outside) sits at the top of Canon's entry-level EOS DSLR range. Sporting a 24.2MP sensor that delivers an improved high ISO performance over older models, the Rebel T7i's autofocus also gets a boost, now with a 45-point arrangement that's backed up by excellent live view AF system.

Pros

Great touchscreen

Excellent sensor

Plastic finish

Cons

No 4K video

4. Nikon D5600

Need a little more power? The D5600 could be what you're after

The D5600 is a step up from the D3xxx-series models, with a stronger set of specs to rival the likes of the Canon EOS Rebel T7i / EOS 800D. Key advantages over the D3400 and D3500 include a larger LCD screen, which not only flips out and swivels but also responds to touch, together with a more advanced autofocus system, Wi-Fi and a healthy range of additional control on the inside.

Pros

Excellent image quality

Articulating touchscreen

Slow Live View focusing

Cons

Snap Bridge needs work

5. Canon EOS 750D

The EOS Rebel T6i (called the EOS 750D outside the US) may have been replaced by the EOS Rebel T7i / 800D, but it's still a great option if the price of the newer model puts you off. While the sensor isn't quite as good as the one in the newer T7i – despite sharing the same resolution – it's still very good, while the vari-angle touchscreen is still one of the best around. AF performance could be better though, and the camera isn't quite new enough to benefit from the more up-to-date Dual Pixel CMOS AF system that makes focusing swift in live view and during videos, but overall this is still a very capable entry-level DSLR.

Pros

Great touchscreen

Wi-Fi with NFC on board

Cons

Average battery life

Autofocus could be better

#film photography #photographers on tumblr #portrait photography #photography #cameras

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photographerguide-blog · 6 years ago

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The 26 Best Photography Tutorials in 2019

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The 26 Best Photography Tutorials in 2019

These are our top 21 photography tutorials. They’re the most popular photography tutorials on my website. According to the visitors who viewed them.

There’s almost 1000 posts on this website to date. A lot of the content requires some effort to trawl through. This is where this list comes in.

We’re hoping you’ll find something new and learn something today.

Every wedding photographer started out as an amateur. They had to learn how to pick up a camera, shoot with it and compose images.

Wedding photography is one of the most difficult photography niches out there. It’s not just any event photography. Your job is to photograph your clients’ big day.

You are surrounded by their family and friends, sometimes scores of them. Long days and a lot of pressure are things to expect.

After reading our wedding photography tutorial, you will feel more at ease. This means better images and happier clients, which all feeds into you getting more work. Score!

Colour may be the norm, but black and white photography opens up new artistic and creative possibilities.

With black and white photography (and monochrome images in general), you need to focus on different areas. Texture, form and contrast become the most important things you need to capture.

There are many ways to take great photos in Black and White. Your creativity can run wild. By reading our photography tutorial on black and white photography, you’ll have a better idea.

From in-camera B&W photography, to turning your raw images into black and white in post-production. The versatility of the genre will surprise you.

Read it and grab your camera. Still life photography awaits you.

You may think that portrait photography is easy. Just grab your camera, point it at a person and take the image as they smile.

What if I told you there are many different styles of portrait photography?

Now I have your attention.

This photography tutorial covers the editorial portrait.

Here, you’ll learn what makes this a different image from a run of the mill portrait. We’ll just tell you this. There needs to be a story to the image that the viewers can pull from the image immediately.

For the other nine tips on how to achieve that story, you need to read the article. Then you are halfway to capturing stunning editorial portrait photography. Worth it, no?

Macro photography is both complicated and frustrating. But it can also give you some amazing images. Especially when you realise that you don’t even need to leave your home to get them..

For macro photography, you need to capture objects at a bigger ratio than 1:1. This ratio would be life-size, meaning that flower head needs to be bigger than it is in real life.

We do this by using macro photography lenses or extension tubes. You get closer to the subject so the magnification increases.

Once you have the equipment, then you need to let your creativity take over. Read our photography tutorial for the tips and inspiration to get you started.

Landscapes are some of the most beautiful images that photographers take. They are also the most common, so your images need to have flair or style.

Knowing how to capture breathtaking images doesn’t happen over night. You need to be persistent and patient. Sometimes returning to the same location over and over again.

Knowing how to frame, what to look for and how to capture the scene are the first photography techniques you need to know.

You’ll learn about this and more in our landscape photography tutorial here.

My personal portfolio contains a good amount of night photography tutorials. That’s because night-time is one of my favourite times to shoot.

Shooting at night, for me, came about due to not having much free time in the day. I would go out and practice my photography with some friends at night.

It’s a harder skill to master because the shots take longer to expose. I liken it to shooting on film.

You need to think a lot more about your settings and composition before shooting. This helps you hone your skills much quicker. And this digital photography tutorial will show you how to master night-time photography.

ISO is one of three factors determining the exposure of a photo. The others are aperture and shutter speed. To really get the most out of your photos you need to know what all three do and how you can use them to your advantage.

Read this post to gain a more in-depth knowledge of how to make the most of your camera. And how to start taking expert photos.

ISO doesn’t only affect the exposure of the photo, it also determines the amount of grain/digital noise. The more you understand what it does, the better your photos will come out.

These are some of the most fundamental and free photography tutorials you can find.

Photography is subjective; people’s opinions on what’s cliché and what’s not is up to them.

Using a bit of everything in moderation is the key to avoiding cliche photos. You can get away with doing certain things a few times before it becomes boring and repetitive.

If you’re new to photography, avoiding the list of cliches below will keep you from being dismissed as an amateur. Our free photography tutorial will help you.

A good photo will stand up to criticism without the need for clichés or post-processing.

Knowing what focal length means is essential to buying lenses. You need to know how it relates to your camera.

This post will show you what lenses do, and which ones are right for you. You’ll also learn how to use them for creative purposes and all the technical speak you’ll ever need.

It’s not a case of how much a lens zooms. You’ve also got to be aware of the changes in perspective and the crop factor.

This photography tutorial has had a steady stream of visitors since I posted it.

Shutter speed is the most obvious of the three factors that create an exposure. It has the biggest effect on your photos. With a poor knowledge of how the shutter speed affects your photos, you’ll end up with blurred results.

This post teaches you the right speed for the right situation. And how to use the shutter speed for creative photos. It is one of the best photography tutorials on the internet.

This was the first thing I learned when I started photography. It’s why I play around so much with different speeds and night photography.

If you’re trying to improve your photography, it helps to know where you’re going wrong. Photography tutorials that are free, such as this, give you some of the best tips around.

This article points out where you’re going wrong and what you should be doing to fix it. It’s not easy taking good photos on a consistent basis. But, once you’ve got the hang of it, it becomes rewarding and less stressful.

I wish someone had pointed out where I was going wrong back when I started. I’m positive that I would have improved at a much faster rate.

Spring and summer are great times to be outside utilising the light that sun provides. Shooting into the sun is a creative way of capturing this.

Shooting into the sun produces lens flare. Don’t let this damage your photos. You can learn to use it for spectacular creative results instead.

It used to be something that I feared when taking photos but, now I’ve embraced it and know to adjust my exposure, I can produce some awesome results.

If you are looking for free photography tutorials on using the sun in your images, look no further.

When I first bought my camera, I read the manual straight away. I used to take it on photo walks and read it before bed.

This isn’t like me but I knew I wanted to become good at photography and, to do so, I was going to have to learn.

I’d encourage everybody to do the same but there’s only so much you can read in there. Websites with lots of photos like this are much better.

Here’s a list of stupid mistakes I made…

How many have you made? How many are you still making? Use this photography tutorial to start taking better images today!

Of course, you’ve taken photos indoors without a flash. And then you wondered why everyone looks so orange. This post will define some of the best photography tips online to help you.

White balance can be hard to master at first. Once you understand it a little better, it can become quite intuitive.

Understanding white balance is key to making your photos look good.

Auto white balance isn’t up to the job these days. This is something I’ve particularly noticed with Canon cameras.

The faster you learn, the sooner you’ll start producing better results.

The Harris Shutter effect is a lot of fun to play around with when you’ve got some spare time. And it’s an easy way to impress friends.

This effect can be used in just about any situation (so long as you can keep the camera steady). It’s a great way to show movement in a photo.

It works by taking a sequence of photos. Then it overlays them in Photoshop or GIMP, using different colour channels to overlap them.

The Harris Shutter Effect isn’t a usual technique. But our photography tutorial will give you all the information you need.

Shooting with a shallow depth of field gives you an interesting differential focus. This is where a small part of the frame has a sharp focus, and the rest is increasing further and further out of focus.

A wide aperture such as f/1.8 or f/2, or even f/1.2 will give you that tiny focal point. It’s a great tool for drawing the viewer’s eye to a certain part of the photo.

The opposite would be a narrow or deep depth of field, with an aperture of f/16 or f/22. For naturally lit images, a wider aperture is best.

This is especially the case in low light situations where you need to grab all the light you can get. This helps to keep your ISO down and your image quality up.

Quality photos come from a good knowledge of how to take them. This is why our photo tutorials offer you amazing photography tips. We have the knowledge and experience.

Taking sharper images isn’t actually as hard as you may think. The techniques are simple and most people can follow them.

I get asked all the time how I manage to take such sharp photos – the reason I wrote this tutorial.

This list will help you improve your images and get the sort of detail you’ve been looking for in ten easy steps.

Metering is the process through which the camera goes to look at a scene and work out what the exposure should be.

There are a variety of different modes that you can use to best suit the type of photo you’re taking. In this post, we’ll be looking at exactly what the modes do and when you should be using them.

Switching from spot to evaluative metering can have a massive difference. This is the case for the photo below.

The sun is ignored from the sky and, instead, the photo is metered for the majority of the scene.

This is one of our best photography tutorials. It offers you great information on one of the most important aspects of photography.

Working with models is a great way to experiment with photos that you couldn’t have taken on your own. It often leads to even better photos as you have someone to bounce your ideas off.

This post covers everything you need to know about working with a model. Including how to act professionally around them for the best results.

Where you find your models will change how you should behave with them. But common sense applies to most and it usually ends up being a lot of fun.

Aperture is one of the three factors that create an exposure. Understanding aperture is a good way of getting to grips with taking a photo with an even exposure.

There are also negative and creative effects of different apertures. This post will teach you what they are and how to use them to your advantage.

Aperture is one of the most difficult aspects of exposure to get to grips with. But, when you do, your understanding will yield much better results.

Aperture is one of the key basics in photography. Read our photography tutorial here, and start understanding immediately.

A photo is an exposure.

The more you understand about exposure, the better your photos will be. Once you start to grasp exactly what aperture, shutter speed and ISO do to your photos, you’ll know how to use them for creative results.

This posts covers how to create the right exposure for a specific situation, as well as the negative consequences of each exposure factor.

I’ve also included some links to read up on it in much more detail.

I used to think of myself as someone who didn’t use the flash on the camera. But that was because I was completely unaware of the difference an off camera flash can make.

I almost always carry one with me whenever I’m out now, even in the daytime, as there are a ton of different uses for it. We’re going to start by looking at possible uses of the flash, followed by when you wouldn’t want to use it.

A flash is an important piece of camera equipment, which is why we made one of the best photography tutorials you will find online.

Knowing when and when not to use one is basically Lighting 101.

Natural light is a type of lighting that we’re all very familiar with. But have you ever actually stopped for a moment to think about the effect it has on your photography and how you can use this to your advantage?

The difference between studio lighting or flashes and natural light is that we have very little control over it. It’s unpredictable.

We have to work around it and with it.

We’ve all had one of those moments of frustration when starting out. We’ve all wondered why an expensive digital SLR camera won’t capture what our eyes are seeing. Especially when a pocket camera does it with ease.

That’s because SLRs aren’t as intelligent as our eyes and they hand back the control that the pocket cam takes away.

This post will help you to get one step closer to the perfect exposure.

The buttons you press on a camera to produce the right exposure in low light are the same as those you press when shooting in the middle of the day. The same rules of exposure apply, but it’s a little harder to get there.

When there’s less light in a scene, you have two choices. You can create more light yourself, or change the camera settings to react differently with the available light.

This photography tutorial is all about how to do that.

One of the best skills you can have as a freelance photographer is how to take professional headshots.

In this photography tutorial, you’ll not only learn how to direct the model but photograph them too.

From gear and lenses to tips and techniques. We have everything to put your name on the headshot photographer map.

Use these photography tutorials when and as you see fit. They will help you across all field of photography, making your images better and better. Dip in and out of them to keep the tips and techniques fresh.

The best thing about them is that they are free photography tutorials. So take your time and practise using them today!

A note from Josh, ExpertPhotography’s Photographer-In-Chief:

Thank you for reading…

CLICK HERE if you want to capture breathtaking images, without the frustration of a complicated camera.

It’s my training video that will walk you how to use your camera’s functions in just 10 minutes – for free!

I also offer video courses and ebooks covering the following subjects:

Beginner – Intermediate Photography eBook

Beginner – Intermediate Photography Video Course

Landscape Photography eBook

Landscape Photography Video Course

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slrlounge1 · 6 years ago

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The Nifty 35 | A Review of Canon’s New RF 35mm F1.8 Lens

The Canon RF 35mm F1.8 IS Macro is the widest prime lens Canon has released to date for the new EOS R line of mirrorless cameras. It’s also the first native lens I bought for the camera due to it’s relatively affordable price tag of $499.00. While its price and plastic build befit an amateur level lens, I wanted to test it out and see if it might be good enough for professional use, especially because of its versatile focal length, image stabilization, and macro abilities.

In this review, I’ll provide a summary of the lens’ features and break down the positive and negative points. While it’s not a perfect 35mm lens to be sure (is there such a thing?), there are many reasons that I’ve enjoyed using it and will keep it in my kit for both personal and professional use.

The new Canon RF 35mm F1.8 weighs only 10.67 oz and includes image stabilization, macro capability, and the new RF mount control ring.

Quick Specs

Aperture Range: f/1.8-f/22

11 Elements in 9 Groups

Optical Image Stabilizer

Macro

Super Spectra Coating

Customizable Control Ring

Rounded 9-Blade Diaphram

Things I Loved About This Lens

The Canon RF 35mm F1.8 is a great little lens with impressive image quality and features galore. It’s about as light as a hamster (seriously, I looked this up), and with image stabilization and macro, this thing does a bit of everything.

1. Impressive Image Quality

The image quality on the RF 35mm F1.8 is surprisingly very good. The lens is sharp in the center at F1.8 with some vignetting and softness towards the corners. At F4, there’s still some vignetting and softness in the corners but the sharpness is fine. By F8, vignetting is minimal and the lens is very sharp across the scene. I actually found this lens at F1.8 to be sharper in the corners than my Sigma 35 at F1.8 and just as sharp in the center. In real world testing, the lens performs well for portraits, detail shots, and just about anything you could think to use it for.

2. Dreamy Bokeh

This lens produces beautiful bokeh, with out-of-focus elements looking smooth and creamy. When shooting details close up using the macro ability of the lens, the bokeh was insane as you can see in the image below. Since the widest aperture on this lens is F1.8, you’re not going to get the kind of smooth bokeh that you might with the Canon or Sigma F1.4 lenses. But with 9 rounded aperture blades, you’re not going to be disappointed by the bokeh in this lens. You may even be blown away.

3. Light weight

When I first bought the new Canon EOS R, one of the first things I noticed, and lamented a bit, was the size and weight of the new Canon RF lenses. Add to that the size and weight imbalance when you use Canon’s EF lenses with the optional adapters, and you’re in for quite a wrist and hand workout. I’m not really one to complain about the size of a lens if it helps create incredible images, but it’s nice to also have an option of bringing a lens with you on vacation or just walking the streets without lugging around some heavy monster. The Canon RF 35mm F1.8 is small, well balanced, and very light, which makes it great to carry around on a daily basis.

4. Image Stabilization

For those who’ve complained about the EOS R not including in-body image stabilization, this lens has optical image stabilization. It works well to help keep shots in focus at low shutter speeds. It works so well, in fact, that I ended up with a few blurry images when I accidentally turned it off during a family shoot and didn’t adjust my shutter speed accordingly.

5. Macro Capabilities

This tiny plastic 35mm lens also shoots macro! It’s perhaps the perfect lens for shooting details at weddings or just about anything else up close. At a recent stylized shoot, I was able to take wider shots of the cake and rings, and then seamlessly move in for a tight shot. The results were really impressive and this is one of the major reasons I’ll be keeping this lens in my kit at weddings.

6. Versatility

The Canon RF 35mm F1.8 is one of the most versatile and fun lenses I’ve ever used. It’s kind of like a Swiss Army pocket knife. While it’s probably not the best lens for any one thing, it does a lot of things well. Want a small, light lens for street photography? Check. Need a macro lens for tight detail shots? Check. Need a lens with image stabilization for those hand-held low shutter speed shots? Check. This lens really can do it all.

Things I Didn’t Love About This Lens

Ok, so let’s come back down to earth. This lens is surprisingly good for $499, but it’s not perfect. Here are some of the things I don’t love about this lens.

1. Slow Focus

There were multiple instances where I had to try over and over again to get the lens to auto-focus while using the outer focus points. This isn’t a big deal if you’re shooting still portraits, but it can be frustrating if you’re trying to capture a candid moment and just can’t lock focus.

2. Loud Noise Factor

This is not a lens that you’d want to use during the middle of a quiet moment at a wedding ceremony in a church. It sounds a little like a tool you’d hear at a dentist’s office at times, especially as it hunts for focus. What did you expect for $500?

3. Cheap Plastic Lens

What else is there to say? The lens is made of plastic. It’s actually a beautifully designed plastic lens with the same silver brushed metal look on the mount connector as the other RF lenses, but it’s plastic nonetheless. Does that make it less durable than Canon’s metal lenses? I don’t know because I didn’t drop it on the ground to find out. I’d actually bet that, because it’s so light, it might lightly fall to the ground and bounce a few times if you drop it. But I’ll let you test that yourself.

4. No “It” Factor

Does the Canon RF 35mm F1.8 provide a unique look to it’s images that the Sigma 35mm F1.4 ART is renowned for? I’m not sure. I’d need to test it in a lot more circumstances to be able to say if this lens provides photographers with that extra something. At this point, based on my current testing, I’d have to say no. I don’t think it has that unique “wow” factor. But again, that’s probably not why you’re thinking of buying this lens.

Why I’m keeping this lens

After using this lens for the last week, I’ve decided to keep it for three reasons:

It’s the perfect RF mount lens for everyday use. I plan to carry my EOS R around with me as my day-to-day camera now because this lens is light and inconspicuous.

I’ll be using it a lot at weddings for detail shots and other moments where I might want to use the image stabilization for creative portraits.

It actually takes great images!

Should You Buy This Lens?

This lens will only work on the new Canon EOS R, and future Canon cameras in the lineup. So if you don’t have one, then this lens is not for you.

If you do have an EOS R, I’d highly recommend this lens. If one of the reasons you were really excited about switching to a mirrorless camera was to take a little bit of weight off, this is the only lens in the current lineup that actually makes the camera feel light. And it feels extremely light! If you are a wedding photographer who wants a versatile lens for detail shots, you’re going to love this lens. If you just want something small and light that you can use when on vacation or when you’re out walking around, you’re probably going to love this nifty little 35.

However, If you’re looking for a workhorse 35mm that you can use for portraits, and rely on to capture those fast moving candid moments for family photography or weddings, I’d recommend the Canon or Sigma 35mm F1.4 lenses and an adapter instead.

Samples

from SLR Lounge https://www.slrlounge.com/the-nifty-35-a-review-of-canons-new-rf-35mm-f1-8-lens/ via IFTTT

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ericlwoods · 7 years ago

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Some time ago I exchanged the Sony 20mm f/2.8 that I bought when I purchased my a6000 not that long ago for the Rokinon 35mm f/2.8. My thinking was that the two lenses were redundant since 35mm (50-ish in full frame terms) was my preferred focal length and the Rokinon seemed barely larger than the 20mm (2.43 x 1.30″ (61.8 x 33 mm) vs 2.46 x 0.80″ vs (62.6 x 20.4 mm)) while gaining another full frame lens in my quiver. No brainer, right? Nope. I really like the Rokinon, but it was not a suitable replacement for the 20mm. Why? Glad you asked:

Despite its tiny profile the Rokinon better marries with the full frame Sonys in operation. Where focus speed seems adequate on the A7Rii it is less so on the a6000. No idea why. While not awful on the a6000 it is nowhere near as fast as the 20mm on the a6000. Had no idea how good that lens was until I no longer had it… The framework for an R&B or Country song right there.

0.5″ (12.6mm) does not seem like a huge difference in theory, but in application that turns a very pocketable camera into a somewhat pocketable camera. Also the slightly rounded front edge and metal build of the 20mm meant it went in and out of pocket far easier than the square cornered and plastic Rokinon.

Simple fix. Buy the 20mm again. One problem. Southeastern Camera had two tempting full-blown second-hand cameras (ones I always thought about buying) that barely cost more than the 20mm lens new that would be even smaller. The thinking was that for a little more spend than a lens ($350-ish) I could potentially have a whole camera ($500-ish).

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

What to do? A comparison seems appropriate. Already being familiar w/ the 20mm on the a6000 well I focused on comparing the Ricoh GR and Rx100 IV. And I was able to do that in a brief real-world comparison courtesy the kindness of Southeastern Camera.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Below I will post back to back shots taken with each much like the recent KEH.com legend/bootleg, Leica/FED comparison.

Arbitrary ground rules:

Both will be JPEG out of camera with no edits. I shoot in RAW+JPEG always but chose JPEG to test the in body processing rather than Lightroom and my ability to manipulate RAW files.

Both set to the way I typically use small cameras. Aperture priority, wide open, ISO on Auto topped out at 6400, no flash, AF-S, Average AE, and single shot.

In most photos I used the native focal length, and by default max aperture, when powered on.

Note: Chose not to make an issue of the varying apertures here (f/2.8 constant on the always 18.3mm GR and F/1.8-f/2,8 across the zoom range of the RX100 IV) since I did not see an appreciable impact on bokeh or light gathering when eyeballing the images. My layman’s opinion seat of the pants impression is that larger sensor/smaller aperture seemed mostly offset by the smaller sensor/larger max aperture at the wide end of the RX100 IV.

Photos taken back to back.

Ricoh GR

RX100 IV

Ricoh GR

RX100 IV

Ricoh GR

RX100 IV

Ricoh GR

RX100 IV

Ricoh GR

RX100 IV

Ricoh GR

RX100 IV

Ricoh GR

RX100 IV

Ricoh GR

RX100 IV

Ricoh GR

RX100 IV

Ricoh GR in Macro mode

RX100 IV zoomed in fully

Ricoh GR – Balu of Viva Mexico

RX100 IV Balu of Viva Mexico

Now on to pluses and minuses of each, final thoughts of each and my decision.

Ricoh GR

Pluses:

Feels fantastic in hand. Light. Quite a bit lighter in hand and pocket than the smaller RX. Truly a one-handed camera. Great ergonomics. Things like the one button effect button on the left that brings up a scrollable menu and other details make it very easy to get up and running. Worthy of the following.

B&W high contrast was very nice. Creating such dramatic images in camera is nice.

They jammed an APS-C sensor in this tiny thing.

Great lens.

Particular to this camera, but it came with a box of goodies including a wide angle adapter, hood, batteries, and charger. None used in this comparison.

Macro mode works surprisingly well.

Ricoh GR in Macro mode

Very quiet.

Minuses:

That APS-C sensor did not blow the smaller sensor away IQ wise as I expected.

There are JPEGs I took (that I now wish I had saved but did not) of a black plastic chair hit by sunlight where the GR rendered strange little blue and red splotches and the RX100 IV maintained all black and white. Don’t know why. Some may prefer it, but I did not like it.

B&W high contrast filter was very nice.

For some one focal length is a drag. But I shoot primes often on interchangeable lens cameras so this was no big deal. Admittedly given my druthers I would rather a fixed 50mm equivalent, or even a 35mm equivalent, rather than this rather wide 18.3mm (28mm equivalent) lens.

Focus, while not awful, could not keep up with the RX100 IV. You can also see in some images above that focus on the intended subject using center focus was missed, like the yellow flower on the cactus.

Note: If I had more time than a day I could have likely offset the focus speed issue by familiarizing myself w/ the zone focus presets I had read about. But quick AF is always preferable to me when available.

No EVF. No tilty screen. Hard to go back once you have had these.

No Wifi. Another feature hard to do without once you are used to having it. Available on the GR II as the only addition of that upgrade, but at a greater cost.

Sony RX100 IV

Pluses:

It has an EVF. I had owned and liked the RX100 II so I was already familiar with the RX100 line.

Has features like 4K, slo-mo, e-shutter that maxes out at 1/32,000 fps, and others.

Like the RX100 it has very good IQ for a 1″ sensor. Amazing detail retained in the shadows and dynamic range. Take a look at the ceiling pictures in the gallery above as an example.

Very small so easily pocketable.

Very quick and accurate focus. Astonishingly so.

Very quiet normally. Completely silent in e-shutter mode.

A rival to and even bests the feature sets of larger and more expensive cameras.

Wifi. Always nice to have.

Minuses:

No fault in general. This particular RX100 IV was in a rough state, but that was necessary to get the price in the same ballpark as the GR.

Common with e-shutters is that it has limited use and should be reserved for static shots.

May also just be this particular copy, but the EVF was a bit wonky. 2 step implementation requiring it first be popped up and then the viewfinder pulled out. Putting your eye up to the camera sometimes (and this is the part that may be isolated to this particular camera) pushed it back in slowing things down as you have to stop and pull it back out again. Not awful, but not great either.

Very small. Ergonomics a bit awkward for my beef mitts. True with the RX100 before, but passable. The addition of more features and the EVF did it no favors where I am concerned. Your mileage may vary.

Make no mistake. Both of these cameras are great. Both are perfectly capable of producing great images. Could recommend both with a clear conscious.

Decision time. So which did I choose?… Er, admit I never should have traded the 20mm f/2.8 for my a6000 and buy it again.

Why? Came down to two things mainly. Ergonomics and IQ.

Ergonomics:

While only slightly larger than the GR it has many of the features of the RX100 IV like an EVF, Wifi, snappy AF, and tilt screen and is just as easy to use. And with those added features there is now enough body real estate to make proper use of them without feeling awkward. Turns out there is such a thing as a camera being too small.

IQ:

The GR and RX100 IV are great image-wise. But in my experience neither can match the a6000. The GR matches the a6000 in sensor size but, perhaps owing to the MP deficit (18.3 vs 24.3), not IQ. The RX100 IV almost matches the a6000 in MP count (20.1 vs 24.3) but, perhaps owing to the smaller 1″ sensor, not IQ. While I am not a pixel peeper per se I do like to crop an image occasionally. Neither can stand up to as much cropping as the a6000.

There you have it. I am quite smitten with the a6000. If I could only have one digital camera this would be a top contender. I never would have expected that considering that I purchased it as a backup to my full frame alpha mount camera. But as a camera that delivers blazing fast constant focus easily keeping up with 10 fps while extending the reach of my 70-200mm to 300mm, along with my other full frame lenses, it is a no-brainer. So it is a specific solution for my specific situation.

What would I do if was determined to buy a non-interchangeable lens camera and I had to choose between a second-hand GR and RX100 IV? Oof. That is a hard one. Because of the trade-offs mentioned neither camera pulled away from the other over the course of the day spent with both.

Both are in the same ballpark IQ wise so the best I can offer in this comparison is this.

Are ergonomics, feel in hand, and quick access to filters the most important things to you? Ricoh GR.

Are quick AF, photo specs like e-shutter and 1/32,000 top shutter speed, and video specs like slo-mo and 4K, and functional items like a tilt screen and EVF the most important things to you? RX100 IV.

On second thought after looking at the last 2 paragraphs it seems like I would choose the RX if I had to.

That is a purely logical decision. But let’s be real if someone has been bitten by the GR bug they want a GR and nothing I have said matters. And that is perfectly fine. If photography has to make sense we are probably doing it all wrong.

Happy shooting.

-ELW

Tiny Second Hand Camera Smackdown: Ricoh GR vs. Sony RX100 IV Some time ago I exchanged the Sony 20mm f/2.8 that I bought when I purchased my a6000 not that long ago for the Rokinon 35mm f/2.8.

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studio77photouk · 8 years ago

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Must Have Gear for Travel Photography Newbies

Fresh vacation photographers are usually currently requesting me what gear they ought to purchase when first getting started. Before I enter what in my opinion would be the fundamental necessities that novices must begin with, certainly a few items are that you’ll wish to undertake panel first.

A far more costly your camera create your pictures better. The camera is a device, and also the primary facets are such things as illumination structure, and specialized elements, like emphasis.

Begin with the fundamentals and develop from there. The final factor any journey shooter really wants to do is pull a lot of cameras around.

Obtain sufficient insurance to protect components and your camera. Robberies and incidents do occur whenever you travel with cameras.

Today towards the listing. Clearly, this all hangs in your budget, but here’s equipment’s fundamental listing that I believe beginner journey photographers will require.

Camera

Obviously that the necessity that is fundamental is just a camera. You will find a wide variety of options readily available for every budget the method that is only to truly understand that will be correct for you personally would be to do your study. Journey photographers that are skilled utilize high end Cannon cameras or Nikon including around $1,500 000 USD, to $5. But there are many of really able cameras under $1000. Among the greatest methods to come to a decision before you buy would be to lease the camera to get a morning. Venture out and consider some pictures withit and get of what it’s like a concept.

One choice that’s been in vacation photography increasing recently is cameras. These are usually cheaper and significantly smaller than highend cameras but nonetheless with the capacity of creating top quality pictures. Increasingly more journey photographers are now actually transporting these possibly like an extra or an alternate for their primary DLSR camera.

When you’re prepared to purchase, don’t and look around overlook you could buy maintained second hand cameras which is in a discounted, but in ideal operating situation.

Search DSLR cameras under $1000 on W&H Picture

DSLRs on T&H over $1000

Take a look at DSLRs on Amazon under $1000

DSLRs on Amazon over $1000

You might think about a mirrorless program of journey, take a look at these dPS posts on mirrorless cameras.

Our camera of preference is just a Rule MK III. It has a significant cost, however it is definitely an exemplary camera that won’t stands perfectly at high-iso options and allow you to along. I often bring an additional body with me that we leave-in my accommodation in case that something occurs to my camera that is primary. Or occasionally I’ve my additional body installed with my lens easily believe I’ll use it a great deal that day-to save me needing to adjust contacts.

Contacts

Often, cameras can be found like a bundle having simply your body or a contact, meaning you’ll need to buy the contact individually. As you will see various contact options whatever you choose will often fall for your budget.

Like a starting place, you’ll require what I’d contact a contact. Nearly all your pictures is likely to be obtained with and certainly will have to provide a great key length array It’s the one which. Anything across the 24’s outlines – lens is a great variety to begin. This can permit you to seize from areas to pictures. Actually, you can really get nearly all the full time with simply that one contact away.

You can put in a lens to enhance your wide-angle in case your budget subsequently enables. Something similar to A70-200mm contact means you’re coated for just about everything you’ll require daily. With time you are able to develop your lenscollection more by the addition of macro or primary contacts. But to begin, only if your allowance enables a telephoto, and a wide-angle move, is likely to be adequate.

Our fundamental listing of contacts that I keep on every journey are:

Canon 24-70mm y/2.8 two USM contact lens

Canon EF 70-200mm y/2.8L IS II USM lens

Canon EF 50mm y/1.2L USM lens

Canon EF 100mm y/2.8L Macro IS USM

Tripod

Many vacation photographers may state that there is a tripod probably their favorite item. Basically with no tripod, you’ll not have the ability to consider pictures which need sluggish shutter rates while you won’t have the ability to contain the camera constant enough manually. But there is a tripod really a lot more helpful than simply for shooting low-light problems. Utilizing a tripod can indicate a little more moment is spent by you creating and thinking the picture in the place of simply taking away.

Which tripod you select just how much weight-you may bring from daily, and can come right down to individual option, budget. Carbon-fiber tripods are often what journey photographers utilize because they are light and steady. I take advantage of the Manfrotto 055CXPRO3 which is really a durable carbon-fiber tripod that will be light to transport. I also make use of a Manfrotto 327RC2 light-duty hold ball-head for connecting my camera towards the tripod.

But like every camera item, you will find plenty of tripods from cheap completely right into a hundred bucks, ranging. Frequently people are seen by me with the most recent costly cameras but cheap tripod that is a very. Through vibrations tripods can in fact have a bad impact on your pictures aside from the proven fact that low-end, you may not wish to depend on anything lightweight and inexpensive to put on your costly camera up? Choose the tripod that is best as you are able to manage since it you will be really worth the first expense long haul and can last you quite a long time.

An alternate choice to conventional tripods is just a monopod. You’ll frequently observe photographers which big telephoto lenses utilize these being a help to aid the fat of the camera or activities photographers. Clearly, the monopod’s drawback is the fact that it isn’t so that your pictures with sluggish shutter rates may suffer with camera-shake backed by three thighs.

Camera Case

There is a great camera carrier among the most significant issues you’ll purchase. Not just may the tote maintain your gear additionally when you’re at your location shooting although secure during transportation. There’s no scarcity of bags nowadays plus they differ when it comes to utilization dimension, and price. It’s probable you will have various bags for various situations while you be much more skilled. For instance, if I’m walking or out within the wilderness I bring my LowePro Pro Trekker 450 because it is just a comfy tote for lengthy hikes and it has lots of space for gear in addition to room for such things as a water tank or even to tie my tripod onto.

But this tote could be too large in a where in hectic locations including areas, I do want to picture for instance. Therefore in these circumstances, I’d possibly consider my Lowepro evening tote bunch (an older edition of the Fastpack BP 150 AW two) or my shoulder-bag (Lowepro Passport Throw sequence). Periodically easily possess a day-off I would simply bring my Toploader Pro70 AW two which simply bears one camera and contact. Therefore it’s convenient to carry .

Lowepro is among the marketplace leaders plus they have almost every kind of camera carrier you’ll ever need lined. The most important thing to think about is what’s the absolute most comfy design for you really to bring and what you should use the tote for.

Additional Necessities

After you have your camera, contact, and tripod the only real other activities you’ll need are camera batteries, storage cards, along with a lens cleaning system. It’ll have a battery whenever you purchase a camera however it may be a good idea to purchase a minumum of one more. The final point you’d need will be aside someplace also you can’t cost it and whenever your battery fails. There are available may usually an extra in useful.

Another important you will require is just a size memory that is good. The price may again be considered an element below, but bear in mind that NATURAL files take a lot more space up on firing for the reason that structure you’ll require additional memory room if you are organizing. It isn’t uncommon when going to load a 32GB memory in only a couple of days, therefore usually bring several extras.

Of what I contemplate to become important, the final is a few kind of contact cleaning package. That may you need to be a contact fabric along with a comb but there’s without doubt you will have to clean dirt, dirt, and filth off your contact glass several times . I’d also suggest that you simply match a UV – filter for your contacts as this can enable make sure that the contact doesn’t get damaged. It’ll be significantly cheaper to displace a UV – filter than to correct a glass that is damaged.

Components

The checklist addresses of what any journey shooter will require the fundamentals but obviously, you will find other activities as you are able to include with time that’ll become extremely helpful in certain circumstances.

– aids eliminate undesirable insights while improving blues and vegetables.

– helps you to restrict the quantity of lighting entering the camera, that allows for results for example smooth-looking water to become produced.

– much like ND filters, finished filters are helpful in circumstances where you’ve a within the lighting between your history and forefront and need to actually that out.

Drive – when you yourself have restricted memory room, a tough drive is advantageous to move your pictures to. But a tough drive can also be helpful like a copy just in case anything occurs for your storage cards.

Our listing of components are the following:

Canon Speedlite 580EX two.

All my contacts are installed having a Hoya Pro-1 Electronic UV – filter. This can help safeguard the contact glass particularly in really severe problems like the leave.

Some Cokin Z Pro sequence ND and finished ND filters.

16GB and 32GB ScanDisk compactflash storage cards. I consider roughly enough to make use of one every day.

Hoya Pro-1 polarizing filter.

3 x WD 250GB passport exterior hard disk drives.

Summary

Purchasing all of the components and your camera that you’ll require could be a possibility that is challenging. Just purchase the complete necessities and the important thing would be to do your study. With time you are able to usually include more specific gear. The checklist that is above mentioned really should have and is my fundamental suggestion to get a journey shooter.

Something I’ve overlooked? Let’s understand your ideas below.

The article Should Have Equipment for Vacation Photography Newcomers by Kav Dadfar seemed first on Photography Institution.

The post Must Have Gear for Travel Photography Newbies appeared first on Studio 77 Photography Gwent Wedding Photographers.

from Studio 77 Photography Gwent Wedding Photographers http://www.studio77photography.co.uk/must-have-gear-for-travel-photography-newbies-2/

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daisyckinguk · 8 years ago

Text

Must Have Gear for Travel Photography Newbies

A far more costly your camera create your pictures better. The camera is a device, and also the primary facets are such things as illumination structure, and specialized elements, like emphasis.

Begin with the fundamentals and develop from there. The final factor any journey shooter really wants to do is pull a lot of cameras around.

Obtain sufficient insurance to protect components and your camera. Robberies and incidents do occur whenever you travel with cameras.

Today towards the listing. Clearly, this all hangs in your budget, but here’s equipment’s fundamental listing that I believe beginner journey photographers will require.

Camera

When you’re prepared to purchase, don’t and look around overlook you could buy maintained second hand cameras which is in a discounted, but in ideal operating situation.

Search DSLR cameras under $1000 on W&H Picture

DSLRs on T&H over $1000

Take a look at DSLRs on Amazon under $1000

DSLRs on Amazon over $1000

You might think about a mirrorless program of journey, take a look at these dPS posts on mirrorless cameras.

Contacts

Our fundamental listing of contacts that I keep on every journey are:

Canon 24-70mm y/2.8 two USM contact lens

Canon EF 70-200mm y/2.8L IS II USM lens

Canon EF 50mm y/1.2L USM lens

Canon EF 100mm y/2.8L Macro IS USM

Tripod

Camera Case

Additional Necessities

Components

– aids eliminate undesirable insights while improving blues and vegetables.

– helps you to restrict the quantity of lighting entering the camera, that allows for results for example smooth-looking water to become produced.

– much like ND filters, finished filters are helpful in circumstances where you’ve a within the lighting between your history and forefront and need to actually that out.

Our listing of components are the following:

Canon Speedlite 580EX two.

All my contacts are installed having a Hoya Pro-1 Electronic UV – filter. This can help safeguard the contact glass particularly in really severe problems like the leave.

Some Cokin Z Pro sequence ND and finished ND filters.

16GB and 32GB ScanDisk compactflash storage cards. I consider roughly enough to make use of one every day.

Hoya Pro-1 polarizing filter.

3 x WD 250GB passport exterior hard disk drives.

Summary

Something I’ve overlooked? Let’s understand your ideas below.

The article Should Have Equipment for Vacation Photography Newcomers by Kav Dadfar seemed first on Photography Institution.

from network 10 http://www.visagesphotography.co.uk/must-have-gear-for-travel-photography-newbies/

0 notes

visagesphotography · 8 years ago

Text

Must Have Gear for Travel Photography Newbies

A far more costly your camera create your pictures better. The camera is a device, and also the primary facets are such things as illumination structure, and specialized elements, like emphasis.

Begin with the fundamentals and develop from there. The final factor any journey shooter really wants to do is pull a lot of cameras around.

Obtain sufficient insurance to protect components and your camera. Robberies and incidents do occur whenever you travel with cameras.

Today towards the listing. Clearly, this all hangs in your budget, but here’s equipment’s fundamental listing that I believe beginner journey photographers will require.

Camera

When you’re prepared to purchase, don’t and look around overlook you could buy maintained second hand cameras which is in a discounted, but in ideal operating situation.

Search DSLR cameras under $1000 on W&H Picture

DSLRs on T&H over $1000

Take a look at DSLRs on Amazon under $1000

DSLRs on Amazon over $1000

You might think about a mirrorless program of journey, take a look at these dPS posts on mirrorless cameras.

Contacts

Our fundamental listing of contacts that I keep on every journey are:

Canon 24-70mm y/2.8 two USM contact lens

Canon EF 70-200mm y/2.8L IS II USM lens

Canon EF 50mm y/1.2L USM lens

Canon EF 100mm y/2.8L Macro IS USM

Tripod

Camera Case

Additional Necessities

Components

– aids eliminate undesirable insights while improving blues and vegetables.

– helps you to restrict the quantity of lighting entering the camera, that allows for results for example smooth-looking water to become produced.

– much like ND filters, finished filters are helpful in circumstances where you’ve a within the lighting between your history and forefront and need to actually that out.

Our listing of components are the following:

Canon Speedlite 580EX two.

All my contacts are installed having a Hoya Pro-1 Electronic UV – filter. This can help safeguard the contact glass particularly in really severe problems like the leave.

Some Cokin Z Pro sequence ND and finished ND filters.

16GB and 32GB ScanDisk compactflash storage cards. I consider roughly enough to make use of one every day.

Hoya Pro-1 polarizing filter.

3 x WD 250GB passport exterior hard disk drives.

Summary

Something I’ve overlooked? Let’s understand your ideas below.

The article Should Have Equipment for Vacation Photography Newcomers by Kav Dadfar seemed first on Photography Institution.

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couttsadventures-blog · 8 years ago

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My Gear - 2016 Edition

Let’s talk gear.

I would classify myself as an amateur traveler/photographer/videographer, but I want to share with you what I use now and where I started.

Right now, I have three different cameras:

-Samsung Galaxy S7: Which shoots some pretty amazing photos and time lapses, considering it’s just a phone. Most of my photos at this point are with this camera. Not to mention it also shoots some great 4K video. Touch to focus is unmatched.

-GoPro Hero 4 Silver: Fantastic for traveling, waterproof (essential when you’re out in the wilderness and weather is ever changing), compact, incredibly easy to use (possibly too easy), and reliable. I love that it has 1080p at 60fps. Great for slow motion action shots. What I don’t like is how grainy the footage turns out. Compared to my phone or a6000, it’s definitely the lowest quality. It also struggles when it moves around a lot or when the subject moves too fast. GoPro videos look best when the camera is still, the subject is slowly moving, and when there is plenty of light. Without a 3 axis gimbal (steady cam) the footage is absolute garbage. My first couple adventure videos with this camera are extremely hard to watch because the footage is so shaky.

-Sony a6000: My first ‘real’ camera. Still largely testing it out and learning ‘real’ photography rules (aperture, shutter speed, iso, the benefits of different lenses and focal lengths). So far, I love the range that my 55-210mm lens gets (kit lens). It’s really neat to get this whole new perspective of things from far away. The incredibly fast shutter is also amazing for sports photography. It feels like cheating! I also have the 10-50mm kit lens that I can see being great to travel with since it’s so small and versatile. It’s only a matter of time until I invest in a wide angle lens and a macro lens though. Big money pit here, but I know it will be worth it. It lacks a font facing screen, an audio jack, and touch to focus.

I also use a few pieces of software for editing:

-Adobe Premiere Elements 15: I love this software. Super easy to use compared to GoPro Studio or any other free software out there. Plus I got it on sale! (~$75 but well worth it) No issues so far with length of videos or amount of footage that I’m dealing with, which is great because I can’t afford to get a new computer with more RAM. Right now it has everything I need. The only downside is that GoPro footage is not accepted and must first be converted.

-GoPro Studio: ABSOLUTE TRASH!! AVOID AT ALL COSTS!! DO NOT USE (unless you are broke). I created my first 8 videos with this software and it made me want to punch something really hard. Constantly crashes, eats up your RAM, sucks up your CPU, doesn’t have usable stabilization capabilities, and lacks basic features for timeline editing. I used to have to turn off auto save and save multiple versions of all my project manually in order to ensure I wouldn’t lose HOURS of work. My very first video crashed and I lost about 4 hours of work. My second video crashed, and I lost 10 hours of work. I wouldn’t wish this upon my worst enemy. Please, do yourself a favor and edit with any other software. I did learn to edit with this software, so I know how valuable good software really is.

-Microsoft’s ‘Photos’ app: Fantastic for REALLY quick photo editing. Changing brightness, saturation, etc. It also has a sweet auto-fixing tool (”Spot-fix”) that does an awesome job of removing blemishes, lens dust, or even entire people from images. I love Instagram’s features better, but this is a close second. (Sorry real photographers..)

-Instagram: Perfect for Instagram. Just wish you could save full size edits of the photos. Also wish that images were bigger when going through your page.

Other gear:

-Feiyu Tech G4: ESSENTIAL for GoPro footage (well... gimbals in general are essential). I love this one. No extra features, just great working hardware that gets the job done. I actually just sold mine so that I can upgrade to the latest version (the G5) which is ‘splash-proof’. However, the Hero 4 Silver is not water proof, so I’m also working on upgrading that to the Hero 5 Black.

I’m in this as a hobby right now, which perfectly complements my desire to travel. The two are symbiotic relationships. More travel = more photo/video experience and vice versa. I want to take great pictures of cool things. I want to inspire other people to go see the world.

With that being said, I don’t have infinite cash to buy the greatest equipment. I started with a phone, then a GoPro Hero 3 silver + (which was a gift), then I sold the GoPro to upgrade to the Hero Silver 4, and now I’m selling that too in order to get the Hero 5 Black. Step by step, I will reach a better image. I splurged on the Sony a6000, but I did it using my credit card cashback rewards to help afford it. Honestly, I had no idea how worth it it would be to get the Adobe Premier Elements editing software would be, but it has already paid itself off in ease of use for me.

I’m not making any money here with this hobby, and I don’t plan on ever making money with it. What I do plan on making is memories. Making videos of my adventures with friends has been extremely fulfilling. Now, we can re-live these special moments for the rest of our lives. No regrets here. 100% worth the time and effort. I think everyone should be doing this. Just think about how many things in your life you’ve forgotten just because there weren’t any photos or video of it?

I’ll be honest, the ‘likes’ and ‘views’ are nice, but when it comes down to it, I’m just documenting my adventures to share with friends. Whoever else sees it and is inspired is just a side affect.

Happy travels =)

#gear

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