#i also saw a monumental stone bridge on the river. water was flowing down its sides

[ankela]

in todays dream water was everywhere. thats it

[babysackville]

Monday 4th August 1828

4 50/60

12

In spite of sprinkling my bed with vinegar bit last night - on the box of the Independent coach at 5 55/60 - stop 5 minutes at the great coach office higher up the street (Argyll street) opposite the tower - stop at 7 ½ at the Hamilton Arms, Hamilton, for 5 minutes but do not change horses till, after passing the fine 5 arch bridge over the Clyde and Evan, stop at Wishaw at 8 20/60 - 

A native of Berlin on the coach - said the best part of the scenery on the Rhine was from Cologne to Colmar - he traveled per coach not like our coaches (the German malle poste in fact) carried only 9 passengers from Berlin to Cologne 80 German leagues or 400 English miles - Accum Frederick the book leaf stealing London Chemist, has built a house at Berlin - teaches English and chemistry - Humbolt gave gratis lectures twice a week last winter before the King and such as he chose to admit - going to publish a complete set of his works - set down our Berlinois and an Englishman at Cartland Crags to go down to the stonebyres falls, and stopped at the Clydesdale Inn, Lanark, at 9 50/60 - breakfast off again at 10 ¼  - in 3 or 4 minutes, right, ruined church, old Lanark burying ground - at 10 25/60 on 1 side the road (right) wall of the fir plantation (house not seen) of Bonniton (Lady Mary Ross) on the other (left) Lanark race ground one mile round a nice looking little course - said to be good races here - good red road, made of (said the coachman (sitting on my left) left handed - the 1st left handed coachman I ever saw in my life) burnt stone - all the stone hereabouts red sandstone - fine-ish open country - thorn hedges - 

The mail had turned off 6 miles before Lanark and we should get into her road (for a little way) 17 miles from Lanark - at 10 35/60 cross the Clyde, Homeford bridge handsome 5 arch red sandstone bridge - at 10 55/60 sort of moor all round, partly cultivated partly sweet gale and heather closed by the Bigger hills in the distance - at 11 35/60 change horses at Chester Hall Inn (lone house) comfortable Inn enough coach from Edinburgh meets us here - take up passengers and luggage and off at 12 - between Hamilton and Lanark bull without horns, polled, i.e of the Galloway breed - never before saw a bull of this breed - cutting hay grass beyond Chester Hall Inn - Telford did the 8 miles of new road to Lanark and surveyed the whole line [?] from Sterling to Caerlisle 110 miles - at 12 35/60 pass over Duneaton bridge 3 arches over Duneaton river good river - falls into the Clyde just below the bridge - 

At 1 12/60 change horse at Crawford - neat white Inn neat small church straw thatched partly blue-slated village - the ruin of Carwford castle (belonging to the Colebrooke family) just on the other side the Clyde (still a goodish river) neither large nor picturesque as seen from the village -  more like the ruin of an old gable under house than a regular castle - a few old shabby trees around it and ? at a little distance a neatish white farm house nearly hid among the old trees and farm buildings - at Crawford (thro which the mail passes) the mail-road distance from Glasgow to Caerlisle is marked Glasgow 40, Caerlisle 54 = 94 miles; but the distance we go (vide itinerary) is about 119 miles - on asking the coachman why we did not as I had understood at Glasgow we should, pass thro’ Kilmarnock (22 miles from Glasgow) he merely said the coach did not go that way today - No Beauty in the vale of Clyde from Chester Hall Inn to here (Crawford) bleak, bare hills, goodish sheep-pasture and not very good land bottom - no wood - the hills nearer Crawford and beyond brown heathery wildish and bare a peat moss just on getting out of the village - no orchards all the way from Lanark neither did I see any about Hamilton - why Clydsdale the orchard of Scotland - no part left for it but the 14 ½ miles (charged 15 miles) from Lanark to Hamilton and in the 1st 2 miles from L-[anark] only saw to little orchards when there before - 

Off from Crawford at 1 20/60 - at 1 35/60 2 roads that to the left, the mail road to Carlisle - we take that to the right, to Dumfries and pass over 1 arch stone bridge over broadish stream which most at a very short distance fall into the Clyde below - the village of Leadhills or 5 miles from where the 2 roads meet - Leadhills lies between us and Sanguhar (pronounced Sankar) Clyde close left, and handsome 3 arch bridge and Newton, Lord Newton, a good, comfortable-looking square, 3 story, red sandstone house (like an English shooting box) and small village of Ellwell foot consisting of ½ dozen straw thatched cottages and a white Inn - we had had rain but not much, from 11 20/60 from ¼ hour but it began to rain about 1 ¾ and rained very heavily for about an hour, however I was not much wet, I have my tartan cloak which was soaked thru’ wild, bleak, bare road (on the ascent) till about 2 ¾ when we reach the head of the glen of Dalveen where began the property of the Duke of Bucleugh - here too changes the course the waters which on the other side ran towards the glen the German ocean and here ran towards the Atlantic - the Curron run down along the glen - the lofty precipitous green mountains occasionally stripped with shingle, the narrow green glen with its little rapid stream (the Carron), the road gradually descending along the mountain side (made about 14 year ago) fenced off like the Simplon with set stones at 2 or 3 yards distance, the steep height above and the steep depth below, very fine - luckily the rain was rather abating and I could hold aside the umbrella to look about me - not expecting the fine glen perhaps it struck me more - in 10 minutes down the little white one-story Inn and turnpike (lone house) - change horses in 5 minutes and off again at 4 (peats here) in 5 minutes more turn left with the Carron and out of the glen of Dalveen [?] and enter wide bare-hilled valley along the bottom of which the Carron flows down a little shallow glen (as it were within the wider glen) unpicturesque because no wood till a mile or 2 from Drumlaurie castle (duke of Buchleugh) here we get pretty will wooded - a few gentle seats all along here and there from Glasgow but not in general conspicuous enough for me, on the top of a coach to note them down - Drumlanrick castle distance right , old house-like castle conspicuous among woods - 

At 3 ¾ island in 2 or 3 minutes more pass thru’ the neat little village of Cornbrig or Thornbrig? (Slates or rather flags put on diamond-wise here and afterwards, because in the common way they will not drain each other so well) wildish, wide country bounded all by ranges of hill - pretty well wooded southwards - red sandstone fence walls and but few thorn hedges here and ever since leaving Dalveen - at 4 change horses at the very good village or nice neat little town (houses chiefly 1 story high) of Thornhill - old fluted column with sort of fret-work capital surmounted by a diminutive looking flying horse - stands on a high, large base a pedestal (hexagon?) 3 steps running all round it - called the market cross - red sandstone town, but mostly washed over and generally white - 

Off at 4 10/60 - open habitable, green more populated country - peat moss just below the town - at 4 ¾ come down up the Neth, board good river - (the flat banks seem rather wooded and pretty) pass the 3 brothers (a fine large green oak of 3 exactly similar boles from 1 stock) and at 4 51/60 cross handsome, 3 arch, red sandstone bridge (Algirth bridge) over the Neth, and change horses at 4 55/60 at a mere cottage and little stable 8 miles from Dumfries - at 5 ¼ (little distance left) almost hid among the trees, Ellisland (6 miles from Dumfries) as (as pronounced) the farm occupied by the poet Robert Burns - the house and farmstead still as when he left it - at 5 35/60 see (left) in the distance beyond us peeping from among the trees, the ruins of what the coachman calls the Old College of Dumfries - Cross and Clooton (as pronounced) over 1 large arched red sand stone bridge and pass thro’ the small village of Clooton - prettyish or fineish drive from our 1st coming down upon the Neth to Dumfreis and goodish land 3 or 4 miles from Dumfries - Cross fine 7 arch red sandstone bridge (an older red sand stone bridge of 7 arches at a little distance right also over the Neth) over the Neth (fine river here) and enter Dumfries, and stop at the Kings arms at 6 - very civil people and could have staid there comfortably seems a good inn - excellent hodge podge and some hot roast beef and a little baked pudding but hardly time to eat - dined in 12 minutes - had been quarter hour upstairs changing the paper of my napkin much of my cousin - 

Nothing to see in the town, but Burns’ monument in the old church yard - 3 churches (all and town too red sandstone) with neat spires - very nice, neat, pretty town - no trade - depends on its cattle market - great market for pigs from Ireland - Thorn hedges and fertile all (off from Dumfries at 6 ½) round the town - save where the large peat moss just out of the town, and now so accustomed to this can scarce think the comforts of a Scottish town secure with a peat moss - capital road - white villages and houses scattered all around - very few horned cattle - the polled all here abouts i.e the Galloway breed - asked if they were good milk cows, yes! but excellent beef - at 6 55/60 1st turnpike from Dumfries - 2 roads - left 16 miles to Annan - hilly - the mail road - could go the other in as little time, but several gentleman’s seats that way, and ‘it suits’ to have a church on each road - right, our road, 17 miles but pay only ½ toll that way - from here the country plain, flat, not wooded - nor pretty neither picturesque - 

At 7 10/60 see the Solway Firth and 2 stooks of oats cut -  had ask before why so corn was so much forwarded than the rest, particularly 1 patch of oats quite yellow,and another close to it quite dark green - ‘Oh! because the land’ (of the yellow oats) ‘was lighter’ - at 7 35/60 change horses at the end of the little white village of Clarensfield (as pronounced) - Pass close under the very neat good and small white row of houses called Cumertree and at 8 ½ cross 3 arch red sandstone bridge over the river Annan and enter the good red sandstone but pretty white washed, town of Annan - handsome church steeple - the towns always better as nearer England small coal smoke here - off at 8 40/60 - getting too dusky to see much - disappointed that we do not pass thro’ the village of Gretna Green but change horses at 9½ at a little white Inn by the road side ¼ or ½ mile from the village - the mail changes at the Inn (excellent built by Col. Maxwell to whom Gretna belongs for himself but his wife did not like it so let it for an Inn and it is one of the best on the road) in the village - 

At 9 50/60 at the last turnpike in Scotland - the girl gave the coachman whisky - 4/. per gallon duty on it in England, and not drinkable there - so tasted with the coachman by way of adieu to Scotland and her whiskey, thou’ I had been all along the road musing whether to go from Carlisle to Selkirk (6 miles from Melrose Abbey and 60 miles from C-[aerlisle] according to the coachman) per mail which leaves C-[aerlisle] every morning at 7 for Edinburgh - I ought to have gone from Glasgow to Edinburgh and thence by Selkirk, but feared time and knew not exactly the mail-road - almost immediately after leaving the last turnpike cross bridge over the Sark another great stream that here parts England from Scotland - soon afterwards pass the cast iron bridge (one of the 1st of these bridges) over the broad Eske - the tide comes up as far as here - tis called the head of the Solway Firth said our coachman - 

Heavyish rain for about 20 minutes before getting into Carlisle - alight at the blank space a second rate sort of not very comfortable coach house at 10 50/60 - by the negligence of the guard my box (caravan) of light things taken off and left at Dumfries - to have at 5 p.m. tomorrow - so I must stay here whether I would or not - about 1 ¼ hours heavy rain early in the afternoon (vide above) but very fine evening from about 5 to 10 ½ and fine morning till it began to look threatening about 11 -

[Left margin: about ¼ hour or perhaps 20 minutes passing the glen of Dalveen - maybe about 2 miles long of fin[?] [?] perhaps a mile of the very fine?  the Carron falls into the Neth]

(Diary reference: SH7MLE110041 & SH7MLE110042)

[retireearlyandtravel]

New Post has been published on https://www.retireearlyandtravel.com/ljubljana/

The Best Things to See and Do in Ljubljana Slovenia

Ljubljana is a mid-sized European city with a small town feel and friendliness. If you are looking for a quaint, charming, walkable city that exudes European charm, then you must visit Ljubljana. Ljubljana is the capital and largest city in Slovenia, but unlike other European capitals, Ljubljana does not suffer from over tourism. From the Middle Ages until the dissolution of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1918, Ljubljana was part of the Habsburg Monarchy. After World War II and until 1991, Ljubljana became the capital of the Socialist Republic of Slovenia, part of the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. Therefore, Ljubljana is full of beautiful architecture and history. However, there is so much more to discover in Ljubljana than just history and old buildings. There is also lots of culture and many culinary delights to enjoy.

Most of Ljubljana is discoverable on foot because Ljubljana is compact, pedestrian-friendly and it’s easy to navigate its cobblestone streets. Ljubljana is also a green city. We saw almost no plastic water bottles anywhere. For transportation, the focus is on public transportation and pedestrian and cycling networks. Since the city center is completely pedestrian, the city offers rides on electric-powered vehicles referred to as Kavalirs meaning Gentle Helpers to assist the elderly, people with suitcases, or the mobility-impaired.

Below are some of the best things to see and do in Ljubljana.

Private Tour 

The best way to get the most out a visit to Ljubljana is with a private guided tour. Keith and I toured Ljubljana on foot with Barbara from Ride Around Tours. You probably know by now how much we appreciate private tours. Ride Around Tours offers some great packages but also will customize anything for you. The guides at Ride Around Tours love Slovenia and love the environment. They are enthusiastic about sharing the beauty and hidden treasures of their country. Best of all they are friendly; we felt like one our friends showed us around Ljubljana.

We spent 2 days with Ride Around Tours that you can read about in our other blog posts. First, we started our Ljubljana visit with a city tour. It began with a cappuccino al fresco in the heart of Ljubljana. Afterward, we walked the entire city while learning about Ljubljana today and past. Let me tell you the central historic district with its bridges and colorful architecture, riverside cafes, shops and markets, and friendly people is adorable. The different period buildings coupled with the architectural styles in Ljubljana tell the history and stories of those who lived there. These building and shops along with the many outdoor cafes and bistros create such beautiful streetscapes. Barbara with Ride Around Tours really knows Ljubljana and all she has to offer.

Unique Shops

You could spend more than a day visiting the unique shops of Ljubljana. And, speaking of interesting shops, we visited a shop called Dobrote Dolenjske. Dobrote Dolenjske sells locally made food products from in and around Ljubljana, mostly the Dolenjska region. They sell marmalades, honey, cookies, oils, spirits, liqueurs and wines. They make all of their products with care for the environment as a top priority. Tasting local culinary treats is a great way to experience a new place.

Something very interesting that they sell is a unique brandy made by local monks with a whole pear inside the bottle.  The bottle is placed over a pear as soon as the blossoming has finished. The pear then grows inside the bottle. Once the fruit ripens inside the bottle, they pick it along with the bottle and clean it. Then they pour organic pear brandy that is distilled four times into the bottle resulting in a fruity, warm and aromatic brandy. In this shop, we also tasted dried pears, a local cheese, honey liquor, and cookies.  Everything was fabulous.

They also sell some local crafts such as hand-knitted dolls, stained glass products, and jewelry. This is a great shop if you are looking for real Slovenian experience, gifts or just something delicious to sample and take back home. Best of all they are open seven days a week.

Small Bites

Around late afternoon, we stopped for a glass of wine and ordered a couple of small bites at Gostilna Pri Kolovratu. Gostilna Pri Kolovratu is a café in the heart of Ljubljana. The restaurant offers traditional Ljubljana food since its opening in 1836. Their food includes slow-cooked dishes from the first Slovenian cookbook published in 1799. We paired our bites with a great Malvazija wine. Our waiter explained that Malvazija is a fabulous local white wine. The food and wine were great but eating on the street in Ljubljana while people watching made it perfect!

Preseren Square the Main Gathering Place of Ljubljana

Our guide told us that as long as she can remember Ljubljana’s main gathering place has been Preseren Square. The square named for the 19th-century poet France Preseren whose work Zdravljica (A Toast) became Slovenia’s national anthem. There is a statue of him next to the Central Pharmacy. But what will probably fist grab your attention when you arrive at the square is the Baroque style, Franciscan Church Of The Annunciation. The pastel reddish color is symbolic of the Franciscan order.

Preseren Square is part of the old town’s pedestrian zone and its where festivals, Ljubljana carnival, concerts, sports, and even protests take place. The square formed after the city walls were pulled down in the middle of the 19th century. The first decade of the 20th century saw Art Nouveau architectural gems appear.

Robba Fountain

The Robba Fountain sits in front of the Town Hall and is a symbol of Ljubljana. This 1751 fountain named for its creator, Italian Baroque sculptor Francesco Robba is lovely. Incorporating inspiration from the grand fountains of Rome, the fountain features three male figures with jugs. The men are thought to be the three river gods, supposedly representing the Krka, Ljubljanica and Sava rivers. Steps that lead up to the fountain represent the Carniolan Mountains. These mountains, which were part of Carniola, are a historical region that comprises parts of present-day Slovenia. Today the monument you see standing in Mestni square is a replica; the original is inside the lobby of the National Gallery of Slovenia to protect it from the elements and preserve it for eternity.

Tivoli Park

With its beautiful gardens, shaded woods and tranquil walkways, you won’t want to miss visiting Tivoli Park. There is much to see and do in the park all year round. This magnificent park is the city’s most popular green space. Established as a park in 1813 this 5 square kilometer park is an easy walk from the city center. There are many walking and cycling trails, a mini-golf course and a small botanical garden with a glasshouse in the park,. The glasshouse displays many tropical plants, such as pineapple, black pepper, coffee, and orchids. Also on display are bromeliads, some of which have exceptionally attractive flowers. We enjoyed walking the park, but you can also enjoy the park by bike. Bicycles are available for rent at various places throughout the park during the summer.

The Romantic Ljubljana Castle

Ljubljana is picturesque, fairy-tale like and romantic all at once and much of that is due to the 16th-century Ljubljana Castle that overlooks the city. The castle’s Outlook Tower and ramparts offer spectacular views of the city. The castle houses a museum exhibition on 200,000 years of Slovenian history and a puppet museum. We had no idea that Slovenia is a country with a rich tradition of puppeteering. The emerald-green Ljubljanica River, which flows through the city’s heart and transversed with lovely bridges, adds to the charm. The castle is open for touring but check their hours as they change throughout the year.

Vurnik House and the Franciscan Church of the Annunciation

Some buildings such as the Vurnik House, which now houses the Cooperative Business Bank, are beautiful on their own. They consider the Vurnik House to be one of the finest examples of Slovenian national style architecture. Built in 1921, the Vurnik House is a brightly colored Art Nouveau building.  The building’s facade frescoes painted in the colors of Slovenia, which are a bright red, white and blue are photo worthy. The Vurnik House is not open for touring.

Then there is the Franciscan Church of the Annunciation. Franciscan’s first built the church in the 1600s and later rebuilt it in the baroque style in the 1800s. An earthquake in 1896 damaged the interior of the church, and they painted new frescos in 1936, by Slovenian painter Matej Sternen. The largest statue of St Mary in Ljubljana is made of copper and sits on top of the church’s roof. If you want to do more than experience the churches architecture, the church has daily mass services.

Dragon Bridge

A visit to Ljubljana would not be complete without visiting the Art Nouveau, Dragon Bridge. The Dragon Bridge crosses the Ljubljanica River. Built at the beginning of the 20th century, when Ljubljana was part of the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, each end of the bridge has two of the famous dragon statues. The almost terrifying statues of the dragons are iconic Ljubljana. Dragon bridge built at the turn of the twentieth century was quite a marvel since it was one of the first reinforced concrete bridges in Europe.

If you love architecture both the dragons and the bridge are fantastic examples of Art Nouveau architecture. Also, you might be interested to know that the Dragon Bridge replaced an old wooden bridge called Butchers’ Bridge. The Butcher’s Bridge had stood on the site from 1819. The city authorities decided a modern design of reinforced concrete was more practical and economical as construction in reinforced concrete was far less expensive than construction in the more common stone.

According to Barbara, our guide from Ride Around Tours, visitors of Ljubljana must have their photo taken next to a Dragon Bridge dragon, to claim that you have visited Ljubljana.

An Amazing Dining Experience

If you ask anyone in Ljubljana where can I go for the best dining experience in town? Most likely the answer will be AS Aperitivo. The owner, a Serbian gentleman, who goes by the name Pope is a celebrity in Ljubljana. Originally Pope’s restaurant was in the Karst countryside region of Slovenia. Because his restaurant was very popular with the people from Ljubljana who ventured to the countryside on the weekend, the restaurant moved to the historic city center of Ljubljana. Pope has been in business for over 30 years. A’s serves simple dishes with high-quality ingredients. There is lots of fresh Adriatic fish and of course, wine. Pope’s house wine is a macerated and aged Malvasia Amphora from his private vineyard in Karst. Popes ancestors made some of the wine served on the Titanic. Keith and I had dinner with Pope in his rooftop al fresco dining area.

Everything Green, Even Hotels

Remember I said that Ljubljana is a green city. Well, there is a fantastic green hotel by B&B Hotels called Ljubljana Park Hotel.  Keith and I stayed there while visiting Ljubljana. Located in a quiet part of town the hotel is surrounded by trees. It is a great place to stay and to explore the city. It’s in walking distance of everything. The hotel’s motto is: reduce, reuse and recycle. The rooftop of the hotel is home to an herb garden and bee-hive with over 100,000 bees. Besides the fantastic breakfast buffet each morning, there’s a very nice restaurant with outdoor seating next door.

Ljubljana is a True Gem of Europe

Ljubljana is tiny for a capital city, but that is part of its charm. History and culture are overflowing in Ljubljana. Culinary treats from delicious light bites, wine or coffee to a world-class dining experience await. The curving Ljubljanica River, lined in outdoor cafes, separates the city’s old town from its commercial hub. Did I mention the architecture, it is some of the best in Europe. And, the best way to see Ljubljana is on a private tour with Ride Around Tours.