#get accsess to some yet

[trainerethan]

Even if I'm too embarrassed to post more headcanons for now i stil need it to be known reguri is keeping me awake at night. I heart yuri.

[visuallanguagegeorgia]

Image- https://www.inglebygallery.com/publications/5054/ [accsessed 10/11/20]

I have been brushing over the Luminous and the Grey for quite some time, I decided to come back to it today as I remembered a point David Batchelor made towards modern day luminous colour, 

Batchelor speaks about the changes of colour throughout the year and how it is now unrecognisable from the colours we would of been seeing years prior. He describes the colours as being ever-changing depending on what time of day it is or where you are. Whether they be flashing lights, billboards, advertisements, TV screens or florescent lighting. Batchelor describes the colours of being almost vulgar and uses a variety of negative connotations to describe them, in particular neon lights. He believes neon lights are trying to achieve this out of world experience, having their own life and autonomy within the objects they are placed on top of. Yet, they fall short. He describes the magical colours that cascade on to streets and reflect on the glinting eyes of children at a fairground as momentary. These lights that seem like they are alive and magic have an off switch. Then, everything becomes dark. The magic dies. The way David Batchelor describes these lights and colours is something I haven’t ever considered before. I found it actually linked in with the work I am creating just now. Printing on to the projection paper, I am able to get extremely bright ink, as it is not absorbed at all into the paper. The colours are almost neon and create some very beautiful work. But, like the neon signage, they are temporary. The ink begins to merge and distort creating a brown puddle of ink. Trying to print the vibrant colours leaves you with nothing but washed-out black ink. Only for a fleeting moment am i able to achieve the Extremely bright ink before it disappears.

‘These colours can and will fail. But surely then that’s the point: being temporary is an unavoidable part of any artificially illuminated colour...’

Batchelor, D., 2014. The Luminous And The Grey. Reaktion Books Ltd., pp.48,49. [accessed 10/11/20]

[fishyscales]

This turned out a little bigger than planned so I hope you don’t mind me posting it all up here @impavidlyme

I’ll be talking about my yabby, Tamatoa’s tank set up.

So currently my little Tamatoa is in a qt tank waiting for his perminant home to be set up but these guys in my opinion are both super great to look after but not without their difficulties.

I’ll be focusing more on yabbies (crayfish) but I’ve added a couple notes mentioning shrimp.

This tanks set up:

This tank is the Aquaone 380 and has a built in filter. It is 37L (10 gallons) as I said it is actually the QT tank so while he should be fine for a little while in this size a 20gal long is recommended for one yabby. (The floor space is important for them) If you want more than one yabby make sure to get a big enough tank and plenty of hides. (Tama will be moving into a normal 20gal because I want to build him some towers to climb all over and because I already own the tank). A 10gal would actually be perfect for a little shrimp tank.

-Make sure that if you’re getting an invert that the tank is well established and cycled. Water parmeters are super important to them. This tank has been up and running for exactly a month now (we placed all the previous qt tank’s filter media in it to speed up cycling and it used to have a couple mollies in it until I bought my yabby. (The mollies used to be in our old qt tank and then moved to this one then the community tank).

-PH is also really important because this will help them when molting. Too soft their shells are weak and too hard they have trouble molting. Molting is when an invert is at it’s most vulnerable so try to make them feel as comfortable as possible. If they get stressed while molting they can get stuck and die. (I don’t know when Tamatoa will molt but I am very worried about when he does okay). And leave the molted skin so they can eat it and regain nutrients from it. My yabbies ph range is 7.0 to 7.8 The last time his water was checked the ph was 7.6

-They’re also very messy and I have heard that they are similar to goldfish when it comes to maintenance and waste production.

-Yabbies like low light and they will be most active at night. But mine can be coaxed out of his cave with a little food sometimes before returning to it. Shrimp are much easier to see out and about during the day. (Plus having a large number gives you a good chance of seeing at least a couple if they’re in a heavily planted tank or something).

No heater - It’s left at room temp and stays around 19°-20°C (I’d research the species you’re planning to get and find out if they require a heater or not)

Air bubbler - This is essential if the water level is too high and/or he has no accsess to the surface. Yabbies can drown, I have to have the water that high for the filter.

Decor - Yabbies like hides and to climb (watch out with this because they’re escape artists) Right now he has one tunnel and I put a couple rocks in there for him to climb around. I want to get him another small tunnel. He also has a couple plants in there  (I’ve had luck that he hasn’t dug it up or eaten it yet).

They also like to burrow so smaller gravel or sand would be best. Currently he’s on small pebbles but when his perminant home is set up it’s gonna have small sand/gravel so he can dig around and create caves.

Diet - Food wise yabbies are scavangers so I feed mine once a day with either an alge wafer or a single pea defrosted in boiling water, (I also plan to feed him some blood worms as a treat but I’m not gonna give him them until I put him on some smaller substrate. The worms would all just fall through all of the large pebbles and he wouldn’t be able to get them) I also like to throw a few pest snails in there occasionally so he can hunt around and have a snack when he likes. It also allows me to get rid of some of them, so whoo! Plus I’m pretty sure snail shells are supposed to be good for them?

Edit: Okay I am getting the distinct feeling that Tamatoa appreciates getting fed twice a day by how much he begs and reacts to me feeding him. So I'm still figuring out how often you should feed them.

***Also to anyone else if you think the information I provide might be off please let me know! I’ve just recently gotten my inverts and have tried my best at collecting as much information as possible before buying my little Tama and the cherry shrimp. But please I want to do best by our little aquatic friends.***

And I hope this has been helpful to some of you out there!