#foale and tuffin

[heroinsight]

Pattie in Mary Quant and Jenny in Foale and Tuffin, 1966

[kitsunetsuki]

David Bailey - Donna Mitchell Wearing a Dress by Foale and Tuffin (Vogue UK 1971)

[ludmilachaibemachado]

Via Something About the Beatles' Girls FB🪷🪴🪷

[youcanlearnfrombooks]

Jenny Boyd with the American garage band The Young Ones in Amsterdam, where she was modelling for the Swinging London design team of Foale and Tuffin in the summer of 1966. Copyright Bob van Dam/Nederlands Fotomuseum. Image snipped from the Something About the Beatles' Girls Facebook page.

[memphisbluesagain]

Pattie Boyd 1963 (Jean-Claude, Eric Swayne and Ossie Clark)

Following my previous long-form post (Pattie Boyd 1961 - 1962) I have finally pieced together a part deux! Please, do let me know if I’ve missed any important details xx

- Early 1963, Pattie moves into a flat with four other models in South Kensington, London

“I made lots of friends among the other models. When one of the girls left to get married, I moved into a flat in Stanhope Gardens with four other models. It was girly and disorganised. There were people coming and going at all hours, boys turning up to take us out - and leaving with broken hearts - everyone borrowing everyone else’s clothes, so nothing was ever where you thought it was and no system for cleaning or shopping. You never knew whether or not there would be any food.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

“One minute the fridge was bursting, the next it was empty. I was earning three pounds an hour (which roughly translates to £51.26 as of 2023) but often the money didn��t come through for weeks and with rent to pay, I didn’t have a lot to spare - particularly if I’d treated myself to a nice pair of shoes, my weakness.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

- Pattie starts dating her very first boyfriend, Jean-Claude

“I had met him on the King’s Road where I had been doing a modelling job with a girl called Sonia Dean. When we had finished she said: ‘Let’s go to the Kardomah coffee bar’, which was a great meeting place - everyone hung out there. Off we went and I still had my makeup on, including false eyelashes. It was so smoky in there that my eyes watered. I couldn’t bear it, I wanted to leave, but she was waiting for some guy. So we stayed and suddenly, a beautiful young man was standing over me, grinning. Jean-Claude introduced himself.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

“And for a little while, I fondly imagined he was my boyfriend. He took some wonderful photographs of me and introduced me to all sorts of people.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

“One night we were supposed to be going to a party at De Vere Gardens and I waited for Jean-Claude to collect me. He didn’t come and didn’t phone and the hours went by. Finally, I decided to go on my own. I arrived and found Jean-Claude already there, dancing with another girl and I knew that was it. I thought, she’s so pretty, no wonder he’s dancing with her. I was very upset, but I don’t think he ever realised I’d felt as I did about him.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

“My first boyfriend was a photographer, Jean-Claude. He was handsome and encouraged me to be a model. We only kissed and he left me for another girl. We are still friends.” - Pattie Boyd (May, 2018)

- Eric Swayne

“I started going out with another photographer, Eric Swayne, who was quite a bit older than I was.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

“I was a virgin when I met Eric Swayne.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

“Eric was not good-looking but quite cool - he had long dark hair and a straight, fine nose - and good company: he made everyone laugh. Eric was thirty and came from the East End of London. He looked up to David Bailey, who was from the same era.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

“I think Eric wanted to do for me what Bailey had done for Jean (Shrimpton) - he wanted to be my style guru. He wanted to show me how to do my hair and makeup and to help me with my modelling.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

“In the end he became too controlling and I think he was quite dark in some ways. Eric and I didn’t sleep together for quite a while. He kept asking and I kept refusing. Eventually, I felt pressured and knew I’d have to give in, so although I didn’t really want to, I agreed. He was kind and sweet, but it wasn’t the big deal I had imagined. In fact, it was pretty painful and I regretted it. We didn’t use any contraception - I didn’t think about the possibility of becoming pregnant until later, when I panicked a bit. Mostly, I felt I had let myself down.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

“Eric didn’t have much money so we would go to restaurants like the Stockpot, where the food was cheap and filling.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

[’At The Bar’ by Eric Swayne - Paris, 1963]

“He had long, dark hair, a straight, fine nose, and was a decade my senior. I wasn’t really into him. He was controlling and in truth, quite dull at times.” - Pattie Boyd

- Clothes, clothes, clothes!

“On Saturdays, if you weren’t parading up and down the King’s Road, you would migrate to Portobello Road in Notting Hill, to meander up and down, looking at the market stalls and people strutting their stuff. You could find some real bargains: bits of silver, antique jewellery and knickknacks, wonderful old clothes and pieces of lace and velvet. Everyone looked glorious and was so relaxed and friendly.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

“They sold paintings, posters and clothes - crushed velvet trousers and fitted jackets with thin arms in wonderful greens and burgundies. Everything was tight and men wore boots, jackets and shirts with big collars - Regency, almost. There was an amazing number of new shops for men, who were refusing to be like their fathers.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

“I loved Hung On You, the shirt makers Deborah and Claire in Beauchamp Place, Knightsbridge, Foale & Tuffin for dresses, Anello & Davide for boots and Mary Quant, Ossie Clark and Biba.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

“We went to the Chelsea Antiques Market. On the first floor there were second-hand clothes, delicious silks and chiffons. There was another great market in Kensington High Street and a shop in Langton Street where we used to buy Afghan coats. And patchouli oil - that was the smell of the sixties for me. We wore it all the time - probably to take away the terrible smell of those Afghan coats!” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

- Ossie Clark’s muse

“I can’t remember how I met Ossie. I don’t know how he ever made any money - he was enormously talented but a hopeless businessman. People say I was Ossie’s muse. He liked to make clothes for women who look like women, with busts and waists, narrow hips and long legs - and I had all of those. He used to say I had ‘glass ankles’ and some of the designs were called Pattie.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

- Diet

“I was very thin and I worked at keeping myself that way. I would hardly eat and then I discovered these diet biscuits that you could buy from the chemist. They were so filling, I hardly hat to eat anything else. I was a size eight - 34B/24/34. I have a narrow back and at that time, I had a tiny ribcage. Recently, I found some of my clothes from the sixties and I can’t begin to get into them! They look as though they were made for a child!” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

“For me, as a model, no two days were the same and my eating pattern went haywire. Some days I would eat, other days not and I never had more than a cup of tea for breakfast. I was still preoccupied with keeping my weight down and I had found a doctor in Hackney Street who gave me some pills that speeded up my metabolism, so I was thirsty but not hungry. I’m sure it was all very bad for me, but that didn’t cross my mind because we all did it.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

- March 1963, Pattie moves from Stanhope Gardens to a even bigger flat with even more roommates, before moving back home for a short while.

“After three short months, I was short of money and went to live at home for six months. I thought it very shabby and I was angry on her (Pattie’s mother) behalf.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

- November 1963, Pattie is casted in a television commercial for Smith’s crisps, directed by Richard (Dick) Lester.

“In this film, I had to pick crisps out of a packet and put them into my mouth, lisping about how much I loved Smith’s crisps. It was the first television I had ever done and the first time I had a speaking part. For someone who was as crippling shy as I, it was quite an ordeal and in the end, they used someone else’s voice.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

- December 1963, Pattie moves to Chelsea with Mary Bee

“A few weeks later, I heard that a girl called Mary Bee was looking for someone to share a flat. So in December, Mary and I moved into a gorgeous but tiny flat in Oakley Street, Chelsea, with one little bedroom that we shared.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

“I was working flat out, not getting back until late and needing an alarm call to get me out of bed in the mornings.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

- Late 1963

“I was still going out with Eric Swayne and doing a lot of work for him, but I wasn’t in love. He could be very severe and the longer I spent with him, the more domineering he became. Most of my friends found him a bit creepy.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

“I didn’t find older men attractive. I felt safer with people of my own age, boys who, like my brothers, would be friends and playmates - and photographers were usually pretty playful.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

Pattie Boyd 1964 - 1965 coming soon!

[siansfashion]

Fashion in the 60s

At the dawn of the 1960s, young people’s incomes were at its highest since the end of the Second World War. Increased economic power fuelled a new sense of identity and the need to express it. The fashion industry quickly responded by creating designs for young people that no longer simply copied ‘grown up’ styles. The Beatniks and the Mods (abbreviation of ‘Modernists’) were particularly influential in the early decade.

New shops were introduced such as boutiques, they were small, self-service shops set up in London by designers who wanted to offer affordable fashions to ordinary young people. Designers, such as Mary Quant and John Stephen were the pioneers of this new form of retail. Within just a few years the boutique scene has exploded. These now-iconic shops sold affordable separates suited to a busy, urban lifestyle.

The mini-skirt, which was popularised by Mary Quant, quickly earned its place as the decade’s most iconic look.

The 1960s loved man-made materials. They exploited the potential of modern plastics and synthetic fibres- Perspex, PVC, polyester, acrylic, nylon, rayon, Spandex etc. This was to create easy-care outfits that were eye-catching and fun.

In the late 1960s, style had became theatrical. Fashion sanctioned for longer hair for both men and women, as well as a flared outline for trousers. The ideas and mix-and-match aesthetic of California’s hippy movement crossed the Atlantic, giving people free rein to ‘live different’ and to sport clothing from a range of non-Western cultures. Fashion leaders began to sport long, loose and layered outfits, these were inspired by second-hand or ‘vintage’ styles.

This new direction was reflected in the fashions of :

- Zandra Rhodes

- Foale and Tuffin

- Yves St Laurent

Harvard Referencing

V&A. (N/A) An introduction to 1960s fashion. [Online] Available from: https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/an-introduction-to-1960s-fashion. [Accessed: 10th December 2022].

Fig 1. FRENCH, J. (1964) Model wearing a Mary Quant dress, 1964, England. [Photograph] Available from: https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/an-introduction-to-1960s-fashion. [Accessed: 10th December 2022].

Fig 2. TOWNSEND, P. (1960s) Interior of the Biba store, High Street Kensington, 1960s. [Photograph] Available from: https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/an-introduction-to-1960s-fashion. [Accessed: 11th December 2022].

[botticellisniece]

[heroinsight]

Press footage of George and Pattie the day after their wedding, January 22nd, 1966

[oanamaria-blog]

Foale & Tuffin

Founded ny Marion Foale and Sally Tuffin in 1961

Pioneers of the 1960s, Marion Foale and Sally Tuffin – both graduates of the Royal College of Art in London – started their business from a bedsit in London’s Gloucester Road. In 1963 their cottage industry moved to Carnaby Street, which at the time was dotted with haberdasheries and dry cleaners. Their customers included Jane Asher, Julie…

[le-cheval-noir-vintage]

Cowboy-Style corduroy trouser and mini-skirt suits by Foale and Tuffin, 1966. Photo by Ronald Traeger for Vogue. 

[heroinsight]

Charlotte Martin for 19 Magazine by John Bishop, December 1970

[heroinsight]

Acushla Hicks and Jenny Boyd, 1966

[kitsunetsuki]

John Cook - Summer Dresses by Foale and Tuffin, The Sunday Times, 30 April 1967, from Photographing Fashion: British Style in the Sixties by Richard Lester (2009)

[ludmilachaibemachado]

June 7, 1966 - Model Jenny Boyd met beatgroup The Young Ones in Amsterdam🦋

This photo is part of the modeling photo shoot for the new collection of Foale & Tuffin, the iconic clothing brand from The Swinging London🇬🇧

📸PH Bob Van Dam

Source-Nederlands Fotomuseum🦋

Via Instagram🇬🇧

[misspeelpants]

Come Up and See Me Sometime

Come Up and See Me Sometime

FRONT: Granny vest-slip in pink rayon stockinette, by Walker Reid, 11s. 6d.; Persian love-ring by Corocraft, 7s. 6d.; opera-length pearl strand by Corocraft, 9s. 6d.; hairslide from a selection by Adrien Mann. LEFT TO RIGHT: Art Nouveau print slip in chocolate and black by Biba, 28s. 6d. Southern-belle lace-trimmed dressing gown by Angela Gore, 15 gns.; satin bra by Emmanuelle Khanh, 89s. 6d.;…

[dyglc]

Ridiculously Chic Maria Go 'Round! A Swinging Sixties Shift Dress Design

Hi, this is Deya!

A first year student of RepubLikha from Bachelor of Design of Miriam College. Glad to see you here again for my second design!

The second requirement in Design History (AAV-104) class under Mr. Rino Datuin is to choose an era and type of fashion design and create our own.

We, the RepubLikha, chose the Swinging Sixties and I went for the casual wear design.

Explore the Chic but Ridiculous Fashion of the Swinging Sixties and how my design came to life!

Swinging Sixties, Oh How it Came to Be

The swinging culture was like an explosion of all the repressed feelings that English society had been keeping down, and London was its epicenter. Of all the channels they can use, fashion was their pick to reflect and correlate the social movements that happened during the time.

Liberated fashion started to grow during the Swinging Sixties especially on women to show the women empowerment movement. Conservative fashion slowly transitioned to mini skirts and dresses where they gained more control on what they want to wear.

All About Mini Skirts & Ridiculously Fun Fashion

There are a lot of designers during the fashion revolution in the 1960s and Mary Foale and Sally Tuffin are one of them. They are known for their lively, graphic and very wearable clothes for women. They created a range of informal dresses, skirts and tops, which they sold through department stores and their own shop just off London’s Carnaby Street. They would go on to design the first trouser suits that embraced the female form in the mid-sixties.

Another designer was Mary Quant, she pioneered modern fast fashion by offering short runs of cheap, trendy clothing designed with a younger target market in mind. Her most successful designs were her mini skirts and shift dresses, which almost always featured bright colors or graphic prints inspired by 60s pop art.

One of her notable pieces is the pink A-line dress from 1966 which Twiggy wore as you can see on our moodboard.

Ms. Twiggy and Her Fashion

One of the notable fashion icons from the era was Dame Lesley Lawson, most commonly known as Twiggy because of her twig-like frame.

Twiggy was a supermodel and she was one of the many who joined a movement that celebrated a more liberated fashion sense. She showcased the “mod aesthetic”, androgynous hair and bold make up.

The Design & The Process

The first image that you can see is the initial design I presented in class together with my team. It is a Cozy Cardigan Set which was inspired by the Cozy 60s Fashion. The idea behind this is how anyone can wear a cardigan, so I thought of making a casual wear which everyone can wear. The sleeveless top idea was made because of how liberated fashion is starting during the era. It’s a mix of being conservative and being open in different ways using fashion.

After the presentation and consultation with Mr. Rino Datuin, our professor, my design went to a cozy cardigan set to a fun shift dress!

The transition from a cardigan set to a shift dress was made with the help of the suggestion of our professor on how instead of recreating certain pieces, why not follow Foale and Tuffin's words of making a ridiculous and fun fashion pieces and putting our own personality on our designs.

That is how the Maria Go 'Round Shift Dress came to be. The name of the design was from the Merry-Go-Round amusement ride name and how it goes round every time. With this shift dress, it has circle elements and how a dress in general makes you want to go around and twirl out of fun.

It is paired with a gogo boots as it was a notable piece during 1969. The design on it is a sampaguita, a Philippine nation flower, to add a Filipino element on the shift dress design.

If you think that is it for my design process, you're wrong~ You are in for a long ride but I hope you will still stay with me!

Another consultation and presentation was made and after 2 more revisions, I present to you the final design of the Maria Go 'Round Shift Dress!

The final take on this casual wear was changed with a more bright and crazy twist on the dress. It is for anyone who wants to explore ridiculously fun fashion that also showcase the beauty of what Philippines has to offer.

Every detail on the dress is my take on the ridiculously fun fashion. It is simple but witty in a way. With this piece, I came to realize that the Swinging Sixties was a youth movement. It was a period of optimism and hedonism, and a cultural revolution.

The use of bright colors and more liberated fashion was a way for the youth to show that it is a new chapter and fresh start not just for fashion but also an era for the new and modern.

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Check out my teammates’ designs through their blogs for more inspiration!

Bea's | Claire's | Ann's | Zeanne's

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References

Vintage Dancer. (2021, January 11). 1960s Colors and Fabrics – Women’s Fashion. https://vintagedancer.com/1960s/1960s-colors-and-fabrics-womens-fashion

Click Americana. (2021, October 21). Cozy 60s fashion: 100 swoon-worthy vintage sweaters you could still wear today. https://clickamericana.com/topics/beauty-fashion/vintage-clothing/60s-fashion

Vintage Dancer. (2014, May 5). 1960s Fashion: What Did Women Wear? https://vintagedancer.com/1960s/1960s-fashion-womens

Working Frocks. (2020, March 20). A brief history of the shift dress. https://workingfrocks.com/a-brief-history-of-the-shift-dress

Vintage Dancer. (2021, January 11). 1960s Colors and Fabrics – Women’s Fashion. https://vintagedancer.com/1960s/1960s-colors-and-fabrics-womens-fashion

Vintage Dancer. (2014, May 5). 1960s Fashion: What Did Women Wear? https://vintagedancer.com/1960s/1960s-fashion-womens

Reddy, K. (2020, August 18). 1960-1969. Fashion History Timeline. https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1960-1969

The Roaring Twenties and the Swinging Sixties. (2021). The Museum at FIT. https://exhibitions.fitnyc.edu/roaring-20s-and-swinging-60s/exhibition

V&A. (n.d.). Foale and Tuffin Talk Fashion. https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/foale-and-tuffin-talk-fashion

Fashion Tours London. (n.d.). Foale & Tuffin. https://fashiontourslondon.co.uk/foale-tuffin

Rabon, J. (2019, August 28). A Brief Guide to Swinging London – What was it? Londontopia. https://londontopia.net/history/a-brief-guide-to-swinging-london-what-was-it

Ramzi, L. (2014, August 1). Back to the Future With '60s Space-Age Chic. Vogue. https://www.vogue.com/article/60s-space-age-fashion

Hendrickson, M. (2016, July 15). Retro Fashion: Origins of the Peter Pan Collar. Cats Like Us. https://catslikeus.com/blogs/blog/retro-fashion-origins-of-the-peter-pan-collar