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Azzedine Alaïa - Fall 1987 RTW

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Fendi Fall-Winter 1987 rtw.

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Christy Turlington | Donna Kara, fall 1987 RTW

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Feb 11, 2021,11:28am EST|22,597 views Why Rihanna’s Fenty Clothing Line Has Been Put To An End 📷 Roxanne RobinsonContributor Retail I am a Paris-based journalist covering the luxury and fashion industry. 📷 📷📷 Rihanna arrives at The Fashion Awards 2019 wearing[+]SAMIR HUSSEINWIREIMAGEThe pandemic proved to be good for panties and not so good for pants. At least that is the case for Rihanna’s Fenty clothing line, the LVMH-owned brand and only the second start-up brand the French luxury conglomerate has backed. In a mutual agreement, the parties have decided to cease the line launched less than two years ago. The pressure to make it or break it has never been higher in luxury. Meanwhile, Savage X Fenty, the disruptive lingerie line launched in 2018, secured $115 million in Series B funding led by L Catterton’s Growth Fund. Clearly expressing opposite paths begs the question of what led to Savage X Fenty succeeding over Fenty?Fenty Maison’s Unique Beginnings It’s important to look at the stakes involved launching a ground-up brand by LVMH. The luxury behemoth is known mainly for acquiring and reviving existing luxury brands. The last time they launched a new brand was Christian Lacroix in 1987. It also marked the first female of color to lead a brand for the French group. Beyond adding to her beauty and lingerie enterprises, the concept was to build upon Rihanna’s creative director and guest designing gigs at Puma and Manolo Blahnik, both commercial successes. In these cases, the singer harnessed an existing aesthetic with production support built in. The debut collection for Fenty, in May of 2019, represented the “greatest hits” of the singer’s wardrobe and was executed with Fenty’s number 2 creative Jahleel Weaver, her longtime stylist. In a video press conference at the time, Rihanna, aka Robyn Fenty, the CEO and Creative Director of Fenty, noted the experience by saying, ”It’s a meticulous process. You don’t get bored when deciding what a new collection can be. LVMH is a monster of a machine; you can only expect the best.”The aim was to eschew typical four times yearly collections by adding drops when the inspiration and mojo to churn the machine for merch beckoned. Fenty rolled out in tandem with events with several retail partners versus costly fashion shows. The collection priced in the entry designer category: Jogger pants cost $280, T-shirts started at $180, hoodies at $300, an oversized padded denim jacket for $940 and dresses between $600-700. Initially, the drops were averaging every six to eight weeks, with seven deliveries in 2019 and six in 2020. The philosophy was to build on essential wardrobe items to be evergreen in the line. Unforeseeable Challenges Aside from the fact that a global pandemic put many fashion brands in peril, Fenty didn’t gain the traction its initial hype promised. Signs of its trouble were evident in the fall of 2020, when a new managing director Bastien Renard was appointed to replace ready-to-wear executive Veronique Gebel.  Next, LVMH chief financial officer Jean-Jacques Guiony said the line was a “work in progress,” to WWD. As Fenty Beauty and Fenty Skin, also LVMH owned, are performing exceptionally, it’s clear the singer is bankable. PARIS, FRANCE – MAY 22: Bernard Arnault and[+]GETTY IMAGES FOR FENTYBut designing clothing collections is entirely different. Especially when Covid-19 made traveling to Europe for design meetings and production visits difficult. The singer and her stylist and (company brass) may have been overly ambitious about just how much unique merch could be pumped out in a year. Accessories such as sunglasses and fashion jewelry performed better overall, often selling out or having waitlists. But most styles remained the same since the May 2019 launch. Aside from signature hip-cut out on skirts, dresses and even hoodies, the merch wasn’t that distinctive. The shoe offering didn’t appear to evolve.An effort to remedy that, perhaps, was the collaborators joining forces with buzzy cobbler Amina Muaddi. The collaboration added a covered toe elastic vamp

style slingback stiletto and garnered them a footwear award. But the shoes offered in drop 11-20 were the last. Some industry voices on Twitter, such as Pierre M’ Pele of Perfect Magazine, proclaimed the line was simply not good. The Industry View Luxury brand consultant Robert Burke, of Robert Burke and Associates, surmises that the clothing line positioned at collection prices wasn’t the best place to reach her customer. He noted luxury buyers stuck with tried-and-true names like Dior, Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Hermes.Burke also felt that for the launch’s fanfare, the drop method was not the right approach. “They left out the fashion show hype which would have reached millions more online, but her power is in her notoriety,” said Burke.The lingerie and beauty lines, on the other hand, appeal to her demographic with their body positivity outlook and accessible price points. Plus, they have garnered a bigger social media following. While Fenty has just 1 million followers, Savage X Fenty has 3.9 million and Fenty Beauty has a whopping 10.5 million followers.There is also a lower threshold in luxury today to weather loss and unprofitability. “I don’t know if there are five and ten-year plans anymore; there is so much at stake. And investors look to brands that grow organically,” said Burke. Sucharita Kodali, VP, Principal Analyst with Forrester, agreed. “I think like any smart business decision, this is about investing in what is working–i.e., beauty and undergarments–and failing fast at anything that isn’t,” she said. “In this case, Fenty fashion clothing wasn’t working, so it’s not a priority now.”A Lust for Lingerie Like Rihanna’s beauty brands, Savage X Fenty lingerie is experiencing great success, thanks largely to its ability to attract Gen Z and Millennial customers. Relative to the clothing line, Fenty lingerie is quite affordable, with skimpy thongs selling for less than $10, bras selling for $17 to $22, and full-body teddies under $30.It has also promoted the inclusivity factor. Sizes range from XS to 3X and Savage X Fenty promoted all shapes, colors and sizes in their branding campaigns, website and social media. It checks all boxes for authenticity, which is vital to the demographic. The line was extra buzzy for its ever-present influencer stable with names such as Aeysha Perry-Iqbal (489K followers), Corie Rayvon (974K followers), Denise Bidot (794K followers), Jazzmyne Jay (586K followers) and Symphani Soto (434K followers) among others. LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA – Rihanna onstage during[+]GETTY IMAGES FOR SAVAGE X FENTY SHOW VOL. 2 PRESENTED BY AMAZON PRIME VIDEO Marie Driscoll, CFA and Managing Director, Luxury & Fashion at Coresight Research Inc. notes the surge of demand for intimates, casual and comfort apparel benefitted from the same trend that stymied fashion apparel during Covid-19, the lack of anywhere to wear tailored and dressy RTW. “To pivot to intimates is a wise move and does leverage Rihanna’s brand DNA of inclusivity, which is a value consumers seek when choosing brands, along with demand for comfort clothing in a Covid-19 environment, “ said Driscoll noting the longer-term secular trend of casualization to benefit a focus on intimates and sports apparel.Market Standing In a press release about the new injection of funding into Savage X Fenty, co-Presidents Natalie Guzman and Christiane Pendarvis said: “As we continue to grow the brand at a remarkable pace, it is imperative we move forward with partners who not only have a deep understanding of our business and customer base but share our ambitious vision for Savage X Fenty and have the operational know-how to work with us to achieve it.”That ambitious vision includes retail. Branded brick and mortar stores are important to this brand that destigmatized racy lingerie. Many of the styles are reminiscent of intimate apparel previously only sold in adult entertainment stores—another visible aspect of Rihanna’s overall acceptance and inclusion M-O.According to the press release, the Series B financing follows “an exceptional year for Savage X

Fenty in which it experienced explosive revenue growth of over 200%, while increasing its active VIP member base by over 150%.” Stats shared by a representative for L. Catterton noted that Savage By Fenty holds a 3-5% market share in intimates. A notable stat for a brand that is only in the market for two years and hasn’t entered retail yet. Its core demo – women ages 18-35 — is expected to gain a much higher market share. By comparison, Aerie, which launched 14 years ago, report intimates make up just 31% of their total revenue which is estimated at $1 billion. “The brand strikes a unique balance between affordability, fashion, and comfort, stands deeply for inclusivity and diversity, and has differentiated itself by building an extraordinary level of affinity and unmatched customer loyalty,” said Jon Owsley, co-Managing Partner of L Catterton’s Growth Fund in the release. “We believe the opportunities ahead for Savage X Fenty are enormous.” LVMH partnered with the investment firm in 2016, thus rebranding at L Catterton. So, what’s good for L Catterton is good for Bernard Arnault’s luxury group.Move Over Victoria’s Secret Additionally, Savage X Fenty is hitting its stride when sector leader Victoria’s Secret succumbed to its woes that began even pre-pandemic. In May of 2020, they announced they would be closing 250 stores in the US. According to Euromonitor’s research firm, Victoria’s Secret share of the women’s underwear market has declined from 34% in 2016 to 25.7% in 2019.The intimates playing field has been heating up due to consumers trends as well. “We have seen the blurring of categories as intimates expands beyond underwear to outerwear (loungewear and casual wear), giving rise to a lifestyle intimates category, as we can see with American Eagles’ AEO aerie and Kim Kardashian West’s SKIMS. Rihanna and Savage X Fenty is better positioned to capitalize on market and consumer trends than Fenty RTW,” observes Driscoll.LVMH has their eye on the prize in this regard. “They are looking at where the customer and opportunity are now,” said Burke, “Rihanna is a great brand and spokesperson for it. I think this is a process of taping into how to use her talent best to reach the younger, forward-thinking audience that knows her best.” Get the best of Forbes to your inbox with the latest insights from experts across the globe. Follow me on Twitter or LinkedIn. Roxanne Robinson …Read More I am an award-winning Paris-based American journalist covering luxury and fashion industries with over 25 years of experience. I spent over 18 years at the industryCorrectionsReprints & Permissions Loading ... More From Forbes Are Vaccines A Shot In The Arm For Retail Recovery? What To Expect From Onboard Shopping Now That Cruise Trips Are Back Growth Of Online Luxury Marketplaces Continues In 2021 Legendary Retailer Mervin Morris' Business Faded Long Before He Died StockX Optimizes Customer Experience With Help From Quantum Metric Will There Be Enough Toys For Holiday Gifts? Humanising Digital: Yahoo Kicks Off NYFW By Hurling Holograms Into Fans’ Homes Feel-Good Deal: Zesty Paws $610M Sale Shows Potential Of Pet Wellness Market

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Staying Comfortable While Staying at Home Was Years in the Making – WWD

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For many work-from-home-ers, an 8 a.m. Zoom meeting may only require a T-shirt and a pair of leggings. While there is nothing wrong with that combination, in this current social climate of stay-at-home, the desire to not get dressed for the day is a likely scenario. We are all victims.

Let’s consider this moment where we adopt the wear, rinse, repeat cycle with a familiar group of clothing items that need no introduction or Instagram following. The forerunners include a tank top, T-shirt, leggings, sweatpants — stop. The remainder — caftans, gowns, robes, sleep shirts and pajamas — have been around a lot longer. These minimalist shapes that have been developed in an array of natural fabrics, or chemically innovated ones, embody the definition of “comfort.”

Fashion loves history. With a timeline of discoveries surrounding clothing and human behavior, it is no surprise that the aforementioned items were discovered as early as the Bronze Age. T-shaped items, which evolved into today’s T-shirts, tanks, tunics and tank dresses. T-shaped designs were paired with string-like skirts and “chausses” leg coverings in the 15th century. It is worth noting that leggings, a staple for many staying at home, could qualify as a classic alongside the Little Black Dress and trenchcoat. For many, each of these simple silhouettes have and continue to form the basic civilian wardrobe at work, home and play.

Here is a list that considers the aesthetics of comfort via ready-to-wear collections from the 20th century forward. All prove true that’s what old is new.

• The Short Tunic was paired with short shorts from Zoran’s 1987 resort collection.

• The Night Shirt/Big Shirt was featured in Geoffrey Beene’s spring 1975 rtw collection.

• The Grecian Column was shown by Madame Gres in silk jersey during the Fifties and by Mary McFadden in the spring of 1983.

• The Robe was reimagined by Diane von Furstenberg as the wrap dress in 1972, revisited in 1998 and in many seasons since.

• The House Dress was reimagined in more relaxed versions by Halston in ultra suede for his fall 1973 collection.

• The Tank Dress made an appearance in Calvin Klein’s spring 1991 rtw collection.

• The Long Tunic was featured in Donna Karan’s 1992 Summer Essentials collection.

• The Caftan reemerged in Halston’s 1973 spring rtw collection and in Donna Karan’s 1992 Summer Essentials.

As fashion continues to cultivate ideals based on currents in our social climate, comfort is important to this continuing evolution. Although fashion is on pause, the building blocks for the stay-at-home wardrobe are endless.

It certainly hasn’t always been that way. Deirdre Clemente, who writes and teaches about the meaning of clothing at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas, noted how for centuries fashion was about being uncomfortable and about body distortion. The shift to more comfortable, less restrictive and body-baring options was partially sparked by the introduction of women’s sports in colleges, the bicycling craze of the Twenties (which allowed for shorts) and the acceptance of women wearing short skirts and no pantyhose in the Sixties, among other factors. Another major factor in the comfort-is-king trend was due to the rise of synthetic fibers, which changed how people fit in their clothes and offered them easy care options, Clemente said. “Not only do we want comfortable clothes, but we want comfortable clothes that don’t require a lot of energy.

“We’ve come to expect clothing to be comfortable in a way that other generations haven’t, because clothes are so individualized and personalized,” Clemente said. “Why should you feel uncomfortable in them as opposed to let’s say 1955, when you have to go out to pick some things up from a store, grab your kid from school and run an errand, and you have to be publicly presentable.”

The changing standard of what is appropriate to wear in public (not that that is currently a pressing concern for many stay-at-homers) is another factor. That shifted partially due to America’s car culture and people being heavier, she said. Many consider the ultra-relaxed looks that they have taken to during the COVID-19 lockdown to be more of a contemporary trend. But a further look back shows the decades long trend, Clemente said.

“I have educated fashion writers say to me, ‘Well, in the Sixties when everybody started dressing down…’I’m like, ‘Um, that’s been going on since the Twenties,’” she said. “There’s this idea that people don’t look back at things. The changing standard of what is comfortable is distracting. What will be comfortable for my kids certainly will be far from the world of what would be comfortable for my mom.”

As for how the current dressed-down trends may alter future ones, Clemente said they could “kill off the last vestiges of formality” that lawyers, hotel managers and some other professionals must adhere to. On a broader scale, she said, “I am sure 150,000 percent that this pandemic will fundamentally change the way Americans dress.”

Ruth Holliday, professor of gender and equality at the University of Leeds, offered another view of comfort in “The Comfort of Identity,” an article that centered on queer people. “What I’ve argued is that it doesn’t really matter what clothes are like if people find them comfortable and they fit their identity. It’s not the physical comfort that matters. Really anything can be thought of as comfortable as long as you feel it expresses who you are,” she said, “Wearing clothes in a particular way is telling other people, who you are. So the discomfort mainly comes from people misreading you or going against your intended expression of yourself.”

Her research has also shown that there tends to be a continuity in a person’s identity at work, as well as at rest and at play. “There was something that carried through the kind of casualwear that you have on slobbing around at home, with the kind of clothing you wear out on-the-town and the clothing that you wear at work. There is some kind of continuity in that because people still want to do something about expressing who they are,” Holliday said.

Like many, Holliday said her WFH dress codes are more comfort-driven but that will change. “I’ve completely stopped making any effort at all really in how I dress. At the moment, I’m wearing a pink fluffy fleece that belonged to my daughter, which is perfect for home working. It’s nice and warm so I don’t have to put the heating on,” Holliday said. “I’m making these very practical choices. Everything that I do is Skype or Zoom or Teams, so people only see me from the neck up anyway. Once I’m back in an office situation, I’ll probably have to go to dressing for that context.”

Post-pandemic, Holliday expects that “the fashion industry is probably going to suffer quite a lot, because obviously people will have a lot less money and [the question] is what they’re going to prioritize that on. There is a sense that fashion will become less of a priority and people might buy fewer outfits,” she said.

But given all the dress-to-impress jokes and the popularity of “Dress Up Friday,” there is a chance that people will emerge wearing their best and most impressive clothes – perhaps even wearing eveningwear to the office, according to Holliday. They may also break out their most casual clothes now that we’ve seen top celebrities, scientists and politicians in sweatshirts and other comfortable clothes. “Maybe they will be alternating between the two,” Holliday said.

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[theoriginalsupermodels]

Azzedine Alaïa - Fall 1987 RTW

[theoriginalsupermodels]

Azzedine Alaïa - Fall 1987 RTW

[theoriginalsupermodels]

Azzedine Alaïa - Fall 1987 RTW

[theoriginalsupermodels]

Azzedine Alaïa - Fall 1987 RTW

[theoriginalsupermodels]

Azzedine Alaïa - Fall 1987 RTW

[theoriginalsupermodels]

Azzedine Alaïa - Fall 1987 RTW

[theoriginalsupermodels]

Gianfranco Ferré - Fall 1987 RTW

[theoriginalsupermodels]

Azzedine Alaïa - Fall 1987 RTW

[theoriginalsupermodels]

Azzedine Alaïa - Fall 1987 RTW

[theoriginalsupermodels]

Azzedine Alaïa - Fall 1987 RTW

[theoriginalsupermodels]

Azzedine Alaïa - Fall 1987 RTW