#due to these items only showing up in saints campaign

[elk-scribe]

Day 4 + 5: Firebug Eggs & Spears

the prompt layout is a bit repetitive lol

[patriotsnet]

Why Did Republicans Support The French Revolution

New Post has been published on https://www.patriotsnet.com/why-did-republicans-support-the-french-revolution/

Why Did Republicans Support The French Revolution

Thomas Jefferson In 1786

Smug Republicans and the French Revolution

While in London in the spring of 1786, United States minister to France Thomas Jefferson sat for his first known portrait. Mather Brown , one of a group of young American artists in London, executed the portrait. A thoughtful Jefferson is portrayed with a statue of the Goddess of Liberty. Jefferson paid 10 pounds for the painting, which he received in 1788.

Mather Brown. Thomas Jefferson. London,1786. Copyprint of oil on canvas. Courtesy of the National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution; Bequest of Charles Francis Adams

Bookmark this item: //www.loc.gov/exhibits/jefferson/jeffworld.html#182

Chapter 7: Foreign Affairs Delay The Republican Victory

Republicans believed they had won the House elections of 1792, and hoped that this would be sufficient to achieve their goal of ridding the federal government of anti-republican policies, and therefore that principled partisanship would not need to be repeated. But things did not work out that way, so Republicans not only had to repeat their victory of 1792 in later House elections, but also had to gain control of the presidency and the Senate, before they could achieve this aim. From 1793 to 1800, foreign policy disputes and their domestic repercussions erupted onto the scene even before the Republican-controlled House produced by the elections of 1792 convened. This eruption showed that the Republicans had to make a more sustained and more comprehensive partisan challenge to Federalist control of the federal government. The events of 1793-1800 had the effect of making this partisanship seem more necessary, even though these events also made both parties more deeply and bitterly opposed to each other.

Why The French Revolutions Rational Calendar Wasnt

What ever happened to the most radical attempt in modern history to challenge the Western standard temporal reference framework?

The last time clocks were set and calendars hung according to the French Republican Calendar was some 147 years ago this month. For a glorious eighteen days, the Paris Commune resurrected the quixotic calendar of their revolutionary forebearers from a century before. From the 16th of Floréal to the 3rd of Prairal in the 79th Year of Liberty, citizens followed a decimal calendar. The revolutionary zeal to reform all aspects of society burned so intensely that it altered the very names of the days and months. As part of a project of rationalization and dechristianization, the new calendar marked the establishment of the first French Republic in 1792, the first year of the new order.

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That last use of the revolutionary calendar, in 1871, the year of the Commune, saw the formation of Germany, the sixth year of Reconstruction in the United States, and the publication of George Eliots Middlemarch. In rocky Montmartre, overlooking the arrondissements of Paris, the radicals of the Commune were about to be violently suppressed by the government. But for two-and-a-half weeks, in May, they tried to reform time along rational lines, to exorcise our days of dead gods and saints. Their history shows that time resists such taming, and that the old gods are not so easily dispersed.

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VentoseFloreal

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Effects On Foreign Relations

Genêt continued to defy the wishes of the U.S. government, sending American recruits to capture British ships and rearm them as privateers. Washington sent Genêt an 8,000-word letter of complaint on Jefferson and Hamiltons recommendation. Genêt refused to cease his activities, challenging Washingtons executive authority and blatantly disregarding official American policy.

The Citizen Genêt Affair spurred Great Britain to instruct its naval commanders in the West Indies to seize all ships trading with the French. The British captured hundreds of American ships and their cargoes, increasing the possibility of war between the two countries. The Affair came to an end when the Jacobins, having taken power in France in January 1794, sent an arrest notice to Washington that demanded that Genêt return to France. Genêt, knowing that he would likely be sent to the guillotine, asked Washington for asylum. It was HamiltonGenêts fiercest opponent in the cabinetwho convinced Washington to grant him safe haven in the United States. With his mission and life of public service officially over, Genêt relocated to New York and lived the rest of his life as a private gentleman farmer.

Sketch of Citizen Genêt: Edmond-Charles Genêt came dangerously close to violating President Washingtons Proclamation of Neutrality.

Adams And The Revolution Of 1800

Shortly after Adams took office, he dispatched a group of envoys to seek peaceful relations with France, which had begun attacking American shipping after the ratification of the Jay Treaty. The failure of talks, and the French demand for bribes in what became known as the XYZ Affair, outraged the American public and led to the Quasi-War, an undeclared naval war between France and the United States. The Federalist-controlled Congress passed measures to expand the army and navy and also pushed through the Alien and Sedition Acts. The Alien and Sedition Acts restricted speech that was critical of the government, while also implementing stricter naturalization requirements. Numerous journalists and other individuals aligned with the Democratic-Republicans were prosecuted under the Sedition Act, sparking a backlash against the Federalists. Meanwhile, Jefferson and Madison drafted the Kentucky and Virginia Resolutions, which held that state legislatures could determine the constitutionality of federal laws.

Also Check: How Many Presidents Were Democrats And Republicans

The Citizen Gent Affair And Jays Treaty

In 1793, the revolutionary French government sent Edmond-Charles Genêt to the United States to negotiate an alliance with the U.S. government. France empowered Genêt to issue letters of marquedocuments authorizing ships and their crews to engage in piracyto allow him to arm captured British ships in American ports with U.S. soldiers. Genêt arrived in Charleston, South Carolina, amid great Democratic-Republican fanfare. He immediately began commissioning American privateer ships and organizing volunteer American militias to attack Spanish holdings in the Americas, then traveled to Philadelphia, gathering support for the French cause along the way. President Washington and Hamilton denounced Genêt, knowing his actions threatened to pull the United States into a war with Great Britain. The Citizen Genêt affair, as it became known, spurred Great Britain to instruct its naval commanders in the West Indies to seize all ships trading with the French. The British captured hundreds of American ships and their cargoes, increasing the possibility of war between the two countries.

Jays Treaty confirmed the fears of Democratic-Republicans, who saw it as a betrayal of republican France, cementing the idea that the Federalists favored aristocracy and monarchy. Partisan American newspapers tried to sway public opinion, while the skillful writing of Hamilton, who published a number of essays on the subject, explained the benefits of commerce with Great Britain.

Did Britain Help The French Revolution

British support for the French Revolution waned as it seemed to become a disorderly bloodbath, miles away from the principles it had originally stood for. With the advent of the Napoleonic wars and threats of invasion in 1803, British patriotism became prevalent. Radicalism lost its edge in a period of national crisis.

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Why Did The United States Fail To Support The Haitian Revolution Of 1801 Against France

The Haitian Revolution created the second independent country in the Americas after the United States became independent in 1783. U.S. political leaders, many of them slaveowners, reacted to the emergence of Haiti as a state borne out of a slave revolt with ambivalence, at times providing aid to put down the revolt, and, later in the revolution, providing support to Toussaint LOuvertures forces. Due to these shifts in policy and domestic concerns, the United States would not officially recognize Haitian independence until 1862.

Impact of the French Revolution on St. Domingue

Prior to its independence, Haiti was a French colony known as St. Domingue. St. Domingues slave-based sugar and coffee industries had been fast-growing and successful, and by the 1760s it had become the most profitable colony in the Americas. With the economic growth, however, came increasing exploitation of the African slaves who made up the overwhelming majority of the population. Prior to and after U.S. independence, American merchants enjoyed a healthy trade with St. Domingue.

The French Revolution had a great impact on the colony. St. Domingues white minority split into Royalist and Revolutionary factions, while the mixed-race population campaigned for civil rights. Sensing an opportunity, the slaves of northern St. Domingue organized and planned a massive rebellion which began on August 22, 1791.

American leaders terrified of a slave revolt

The Revolution caused a Refugee Crisis

Did The Democratic Republicans Support The French Revolution

George Washington and the French Revolution APUSH Review

Democratic Republicans, including Thomas Jefferson, supported the people in the French Revolution. They believed the people had a right to use violence to win their freedom and establish a republic where people have equal rights; the same reason we fought Britain in the American Revolution.

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Abolition Of The Ancien Rgime

Even these limited reforms went too far for Marie Antoinette and Louis’ younger brother the Comte d’Artois; on their advice, Louis dismissed Necker again as chief minister on 11 July. On 12 July, the Assembly went into a non-stop session after rumours circulated he was planning to use the Swiss Guards to force it to close. The news brought crowds of protestors into the streets, and soldiers of the elite Gardes Françaises regiment refused to disperse them.

On the 14th, many of these soldiers joined the mob in attacking the Bastille, a royal fortress with large stores of arms and ammunition. The governor de Launay surrendered after several hours of fighting that cost the lives of 83 attackers. Taken to the Hôtel de Ville, he was executed, his head placed on a pike and paraded around the city; the fortress was then torn down in a remarkably short time. Although rumoured to hold many prisoners, the Bastille held only seven: four forgers, two noblemen held for “immoral behaviour”, and a murder suspect. Nevertheless, as a potent symbol of the Ancien Régime, its destruction was viewed as a triumph and Bastille Day is still celebrated every year.

Undeclared Naval War With France

Jays Treaty also angered France, which saw it as a violation of the Franco-American mutual defense treaty of 1778. By 1797, French privateers began attacking American merchant shipping in the Caribbean and harassing vessels on American trade routes.

The result was an undeclared naval warwhat later became known as the Quasi-Warwith France, most of which was fought in the Caribbean from 1798 to 1800. During the war, the United States slowly pushed the French out of the West Indian trade system. Ultimately, the Quasi-War strengthened the U.S. navy and helped expand American commercial networks in the Caribbean. This was a victory for the Federalists, who sought to establish an American merchant presence in the Atlantic. Eventually, the United States and France agreed to end hostilities and to end the mutual defense treaty of 1778an act that President Adams considered one of the finest achievements of his presidency.

Read Also: Which Republicans Might Vote For Impeachment

Jefferson To Tsar Alexander I On Government And Trade

Russian Tsar Alexander I and President Jefferson exchanged ideas and books on republican constitutions , as well as plans for expanding trade between the two nations in a short series of letters, 18041808. These letters reflect the efforts of the national leaders to establish good relations between the two rising powers independent of the titanic struggle being waged between France and Great Britain.

1 of 2

Tsar Alexander to Thomas Jefferson. August 20, 1805. Manuscript letter. Page 2. Manuscript Division

Bookmark this item: //www.loc.gov/exhibits/jefferson/jeffworld.html#205a

Era Of Good Feelings 18171825

Monroe believed that the existence of political parties was harmful to the United States, and he sought to usher in the end of the Federalist Party by avoiding divisive policies and welcoming ex-Federalists into the fold. Monroe favored infrastructure projects to promote economic development and, despite some constitutional concerns, signed bills providing federal funding for the National Road and other projects. Partly due to the mismanagement of national bank president William Jones, the country experienced a prolonged economic recession known as the Panic of 1819. The panic engendered a widespread resentment of the national bank and a distrust of paper money that would influence national politics long after the recession ended. Despite the ongoing economic troubles, the Federalists failed to field a serious challenger to Monroe in the 1820 presidential election, and Monroe won re-election essentially unopposed.

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The Ardour For Liberty

‘How much the greatest event that has happened in the history of the world, and how much the best’ – Charles James Fox, Opposition Whig leader 1789

News of the opening events of the French Revolution was greeted with widespread enthusiasm by British observers, although some, patronisingly, saw it as evidence that France was abandoning absolutism for a liberal constitution based on the British model. Enthusiasm was most potent among those championing domestic political reform – Dissenters excluded from political office by the Test and Corporation and Subscription Acts, members of the middling orders denied the vote by antiquated constituency boundaries and a restricted suffrage, and Parliamentary Whigs whose ambitions for office were blocked by Pitt’s firm hold on power. For these groups and their associated literary, scientific and political circles, events in France signified a much deeper change in government.

I see the ardour for liberty catching and spreading…

Revolution And The Church

Historian John McManners argues “in eighteenth-century France, throne and altar were commonly spoken of as in close alliance; their simultaneous collapse … would one day provide the final proof of their interdependence.” One suggestion is that after a century of persecution, some French Protestants actively supported an anti-Catholic regime, a resentment fuelled by Enlightenment thinkers such as Voltaire. Philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau wrote it was “manifestly contrary to the law of nature… that a handful of people should gorge themselves with superfluities while the hungry multitude goes in want of necessities.”

The Revolution caused a massive shift of power from the Catholic Church to the state; although the extent of religious belief has been questioned, elimination of tolerance for religious minorities meant by 1789 being French also meant being Catholic. The church was the largest individual landowner in France, controlling nearly 10% of all estates and levied tithes, effectively a 10% tax on income, collected from peasant farmers in the form of crops. In return, it provided a minimal level of social support.

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Galit: How Equal Is It

Like many aspects of modern France, the antecedent to this court case lies in the era of the French Revolution and the values it ingrained in the French national consciousness. The French Revolution, like the American war for independence, was a repudiation of monarchy and a commitment to the republican values of the Enlightenment, succinctly summarized in Frances national motto, libert, galit, fraternit . However, French republicanism took a much stricter form than its American cousin.

It is in this context, then, that a doctor can legally be fired from a government-run hospital for a beard suggestive of his Muslim identity. However, galit is not necessarily as equal as it may seem on paper. A ban on religious symbols in schools has a much more drastic impact on hijab-wearing Muslims than on Christians who wear cross-shaped necklaces. Frances republican ideals took shape when virtually the entire French population was white and Catholic. However, a recent surge in diversity, most of it occurring over the last half century, is testing the limits of Frances staunch republicanism and its compatibility with a multiethnic society.

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The Fall of the French Constitutional Monarchy

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As we have seen repeatedly in history, people in nations often assign all the ills of the country to the political party or the regime in power at the time.; In France, especially since the reign of Louis XIV, the Sun King, whose extravagance earned him many enemies and the resentment of the taxed masses, people felt that the monarchy was a cruel dictatorship.; The emerging merchant class also resented that they were grouped with the peasants into the Third Estate, which had no voting power, no voice in government.

So, it is understandable that after the Revolution of 1789, a new government was established, one that did not belong to any surviving aristocracy. From 1789-1791 a National Assembly abolished privileges, venality, and “feudal obligations.”; Ecclesiastical properties were confiscated and the church and law courts were reconstructed.; ; In 1791 the call for a Clerical Oath of Loyalty brought about a conflict between the new sovereignty and traditional loyalties.; When King Louis XVI;tried to escape to Paris, civil was seemed near, but the First Assembly maintained control; a Paris crowd was dispersed and the king reinstated briefly before a second revolution when the National Assembly established a republic in 1792.; Sadly, in 1793 the Reign of Terror began when the militant organization, the Montagards, gained control.

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In Favour Of A Constitutional Monarchy

Not inherently undemocratic: Opponents of the republican movement argue that the current system is still democratic as the Government and MPs of Parliament are elected by universal suffrage and as the Crown acts only on the advice of the Parliament, the people still hold power. Monarchy only refers to how the head of state is chosen and not how the Government is chosen. It is only undemocratic if the monarchy holds meaningful power, which it currently does not as government rests with Parliament.

Safeguards the constitutional rights of the individual: The British constitutional system sets limits on Parliament and separates the executive from direct control over the police and courts. Constitutionalists argue that this is because contracts with the monarch such as the Magna Carta, the , the Act of Settlement and the Acts of Union place obligations on the state and confirm its citizens as sovereign beings. These obligations are re-affirmed at every monarch’s coronation. These obligations, whilst at the same time placing limits on the power of the judiciary and the police, also confirm those rights which are intrinsically part of British and especially English culture. Examples are Common Law, the particular status of ancient practices, jury trials, legal precedent, protection against non-judicial seizure and the right to protest.

[shannen2002]

3x3 boards

For my 3x3 task, I chose to use the same trends that I did within my group tasks, to show a better understanding of these specific trends. 

For my first 3x3, I took the ‘carefree comfort’ trend from WGSN and put together different influences for this trend. Within the triangle, I used the trend overview, along with a House Of CB loungewear campaign and Misguided playboy range, shown on instagram to convey social media influence.

The House Of CB campaign relates nicely to the trend because it showcases everything that the initial idea is about. The clothes are comfortable, loose fitting, natural colours, along with stylish and versatile. These clothes are a perfect example of what you would expect to get from this trend idea. 

For the Misguided Playboy range, I wanted to use a picture from social media to showcase the clothing range itself, along with the influence caused my social media that can cause a trend to spread. The misguided range is taking a different approach to the previous House Of CB campaign, whilst still sticking to the idea and being just as effective. The range features tracksuits, oversized clothing, and a basic variety of accessories. These follow the same pattern of being comfortable and loose fitting, however on the other hand, these have a much more vibrant colour palette and also feature some graphic designs linking to the playboy theme. 

For the outside of my triangle, I wanted to incorporate some more natural occurrences that are relevant for todays times. I chose covid as a global issue effecting this trend, this will and has caused a lot of traffic for loungewear websites, due to more people spending more time at home and wanting to look and feel comfortable. 

Another natural thing that can effect this trend I a good way, is the winter weather, for these colder months, people want to be cosy at home, particularly within the lead up to Christmas. This can have a bad effect on this trend during the summer months, where this will most definitely go out of fashion.

Lastly, linking to staying in bed, the environment of your home makes you want to be as comfortable as possible, which is why these clothing styles are not only comfortable to go out in, but are perfect for lounging around the house.

For my second 3x3, I chose to do ‘business casual’, this is because it is very different from the previous board. I got the trend again of WGSN and used it as the main image for my triangle. Inside the triangle, I used the ‘Teddy boys’, which we looked at in our lecture, along with catwalk images from a ‘Yves Saint Laurent’ inspired by them . Around the outside I wanted to showcase a range of influences, I chose the gherkin, which is a well know office building in London, a basic school uniform, and finally a tv series called ‘peaky blinders’.

For the first image of the Teddy boys, I wanted to include them because they are a big subcultural influence when it comes to suits, and dress up attire. They are the first group to make dressing up for a regular occasion the ‘norm’. They influence mens clothing in particular and feature the classic blazers and trouser styles.

Along with the teddy boys, Yves Saint Laurent did a fashion walk where they showcased a range of ‘teddy boy’ inspired clothing, these link well together to show how they have influenced the current era, leading into our trend of business casual. 

For the outside, I included the gherkin to produce an environment that workwear is usually seen in. Obviously when it comes to working in an office, especially n such a big and well-known building such as this, smart occasion wear is to be worn. I wanted to use this as a reference for where the inspiration of clothing initially comes from, and inspire people to dress up these clothes to wear them day too day.

The peaky blinders remind me of the ‘teddy boys’ because of them being a group of young men dressing in smart attire on a daily basis. This is a series based in the victorian era that people watch today and love. Because of the strong characters within the series, people want to be like them, causing a big influence on their viewers.

The last image I wanted to include is a school uniform. Similar to the gherkin, I wanted to showcase where these outfits would be worn to give the inspiration for this trend. Schools all over the UK and other parts of the world wear a school uniform, this is more common inplrivate schools because it is seen as smart. With the trend business Casula we want to come away from just seeing the items of clothing as a school or office uniform, and incorporate them in other looks and everyday wear. 

A main clothing piece that has recently took the media by storm is the blazer. Everyone from social media stars to young girls in college have been taking notice that a blazer can be worn to dress up an outfit, for a night out or day trip, not just in the office. People have been styling blazers with dresses and heels to dress up, or to be more casual, throwing it over the top of a hoodie, with joggers and trainers to give the look a more put together feel by layering.

3X3 task completed, discussed and evaluated

[dustinsanimationv2]

Research

Ways to save the ecosystem.

Aspects of ecology themes:

waste 

Energy

Natural land

General sustainability 

Out of the 4 aspects, my research will go through WASTE. I will be researching the increase of litter, emphasizing on disposable masks in the UK during the Covid-19 pandemic and its impact on the ecosystem.

I will also research the migration and behavior of wild animals throughout the world during the Covid19 pandemic and why they did so.

TIME PERIOD:

https://fullfact.org/health/coronavirus-lockdown-hancock-claim/ 

On 16th March 2020, the UK went into its first lockdown. Boris Johnson announced an immediate close in businesses and for people to “stay at home”.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-53152416 

From the 4th July, the UK’s lockdown restrictions were relaxed, allowing pubs, hotels and restaurants and others to be opened for business along. Where two or more households were able to meet outdoors.  

WILD ANIMAL BEHAVIOUR DURING THE PANDEMIC:

While the rest of the world shut in at home due to the coronavirus lockdown, animals however, have come out and claim the unused territory – from man eating big cats in capital cities to monkeys in car parks.

This phenomenon was first noticed when Twitter went viral about swans returning to Venice’s clear canals, but as it turned out those swans were from photographed from Burano in the Venetian Lagoon where swans regularly appear, not Venice. Soon enough images and reports emerged from the corners of the world of a boom in wildlife that this phenomenon was actually happening in small towns and big cities such as Essex (UK), Barcelona (Spain), Nara (Japan), Lopburi (Thailand) and Wales (UK). This was mainly due to the restrictions of tourism as countries closed their borders, as well as businesses big and small closed down

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-52459487 

In Istanbul, dolphins venture closer to the banks as what was normally one of the worlds busiest marine routes came to a temporary halt as fishermen stayed home during the city’s lockdown.

https://nypost.com/2020/04/17/wild-animals-are-reclaiming-cities-during-coronavirus-lockdown/

https://www.thesun.co.uk/news/11302340/animals-reclaiming-planet-coronavirus-lockdown/

According to this article, animals moved more into the city as they sensed less noise, so they venture in to find food in the empty city and depending on the size of the city, some get lost. In some areas like Wales, police say that the animals did not need to be escorted out as they usually found their own way back  

https://www.theguardian.com/world/gallery/2020/apr/22/animals-roaming-streets-coronavirus-lockdown-photos

I like this article as it mainly contains a series of photographs from different countries, capturing the moment of adventure.

LITTER IN THE UK:

Although it seamed as if the World was going through a natural “cleanse” and nature reclaiming itself, it wasn't long before humanity struck back for their ‘freedom’ from isolation. As if it was fate bestowed by the gods, the ease of lockdown in the UK from the 4th July gave the Brits their long awaited summer. Despite the ongoing pandemic, people from major cities vacate to the peaceful countryside and public beaches to soak in their short lived heat wave.

Beaches such as Brighton and Bournemouth felt the greatest impact.

Aftermath of Bournemouth beach. The disturbing video above shows just how careless, selfish and irresponsible people are when it comes to looking after themselves.

https://www.bma.org.uk/news-and-opinion/government-makes-wearing-face-masks-mandatory#:~:text=The%20Government%20has%20announced%20face,but%20only%20from%2024%20July.

From 24th July, the Government announced that wearing masks would be mandatory to those going to shops and restaurants in order to lower the chances of injection, and advised to use hand sanitizers or sanitation wipes on surfaces before entering. But, little did they know how irresponsible Brits would cause a backfire on the environment.

https://www.bbc.com/worklife/article/20200610-why-are-parks-full-of-litter-as-lockdown-eases

Christine Ro’s article states “Like every other aspect of our everyday lives, rubbish and recycling collection has been disrupted in some places by the Covid-19 pandemic. This context is crucial because waste disposal depends on “social proof”, or the copying of others’ behaviour. “If you see a place that’s full of litter and a mess, you’re more likely to think that it doesn’t matter,” says coaching psychologist Stephen Palmer of the International Academy for Professional Development and University of Wales Trinity Saint David. “If you actually see someone dropping litter, you’re probably more likely to drop litter yourself.”

https://earth.org/covid-19-surge-in-plastic-pollution/

PLASTIC POLLUTION AMIDST COVID19

Naturally, the priority over the past few months has been mitigating the contagion of the virus, which includes the implementation of collaborative protective measures. Essential components to controlling the spread include the wearing of surgical face masks and the frequent disinfection of hands. Although these two measures alone cannot stop the pandemic, they play an important role in preventing infection and are therefore vital to controlling and eliminating COVID-19.

WHY THERE IS A CORRELATION WITH PLASTIC AND THE PANDEMIC

Both face masks and hand sanitiser production include the use of plastic. Face masks typically contain polypropylene (PP), which, due to the microfibers’ hydrophobic composition, acts as a protective layer against bodily fluid droplets. Other more intricate and expensive face masks include polyurethane (PUR) and/or polyacrylonitrile (PAN).

A UK-based charity, Keep Britain Tidy, fears a littering crisis amidst the relaxation of lockdown regulations and social distancing rules. With an increase in the number of people visiting beaches and parks, and gathering in public spaces, large amounts of rubbish have accumulated. Thames21, a charity that aims to maintain healthy waterways in London, suggests that people are socialising in a way that is different to before lockdown: mainly congregating outdoors. This has led to carelessness in behaviour displayed through littering, for example. Thames21 reports that the main type of rubbish found is single-use plastic, such as fast-food packaging, confectionary wrappers and drink bottles.

Keep Wales Tidy campaigners stress that significant amounts of personal protective equipment (PPE) are being littered across the country. In addition to being an environmental hazard, says Jemma Bere policy and research manager for the organisation, the littering of PPE poses a contamination risk to others: many samaritans that would typically collect litter when encountering some are no longer doing so to avoid the risk of coming into contact with contaminated PPE.

.... next source...

https://earth.org/covid-19-unmasking-the-environmental-impact/ 

written by:  SUCHETANA MUKHOPADHYAY

These masks are mainly made of non-woven fabric such as polypropylene, which is between 20 and 25 grams per square metre in density. Polystyrene, polycarbonate, polyethylene or polyester are some of the other commonly-used materials in surgical masks. While they keep out bacteria effectively (although not necessarily that of the virus), the masks are plastic-based, liquid-resistant products that have a long afterlife after they are discarded, ending up in landfill or oceans.  

Given that surgical masks are supposed to be worn for no longer than one day, their disposal- along with that of empty hand sanitizer bottles and soiled tissue papers- is leading to a massive trail of clinical waste in the environment. In Hong Kong, for example, which has been battling the coronavirus since late January, such waste has already started polluting the environment.

During a recent survey trip to Soko Islands, a small cluster of islands lying south-west of Lantau Island, Hong Kong-based environmental NGO OceansAsia found heaps of discarded single-use masks washed up on a 100-metre stretch of beach. According to Gary Stokes, founder and director of the ocean-centred NGO, which has been monitoring ocean surface trash as part of WWF’s Blue Ocean Initiative, their team has seen the odd mask here and there over the years, but this time they were spotted all along the high tide line and foreshore with new deposits coming in with each current.

“Due to the current COVID-19 outbreak, the general population have all taken the precaution of wearing surgical masks. When you suddenly have a population of 7 million people wearing one to two masks per day, the amount of trash generated is going to be substantial,” Stokes says.

The adverse environmental impact of such clinical debris during COVID-19 are far-reaching. Once these are left discarded in an animal’s natural habitat- be it land or water- this may cause animals to mistake this trash for food, which could lead to entanglement, choking, ingestion and death.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-bristol-53947161

https://www.independent.co.uk/news/health/coronavirus-litter-warning-rubbish-transmission-government-a9617521.html

The beaches weren’t the only victims caused by certain individuals who are unable to look after themselves; this vile habit followed them back to their residing cities and violate the environment surrounding them. What makes this worse is that most people turn a blind eye this.

https://www.itv.com/news/wales/2020-06-09/concerns-over-rise-in-coronavirus-litter-as-people-discard-masks-and-gloves

How should I dispose of my waste during the pandemic?

Single-use personal protective equipment (PPE) is not recycled. This includes disposable face masks, gloves and aprons. The advice is to put it in your rubbish bin.

Personal waste, such as tissues and wipes, cannot be recycled and should be put in the bin.

If you or someone you live with has had symptoms of Covid-19, double-bag the items and leave them for at least 72 hours before collection.

Food and drink packaging, including plastic and glass bottles, are now largely recycled and should be put in your kerbside recycling box or bag.

Disinfect your recycling bags, boxes and caddy handles before and after use.

Larger household waste that cannot be collected kerbside should be taken to a local household waste recycling center, with appropriate guidelines followed.

[heatpeen03-blog]

2018 fashion recap: most important news of the year

2018 was certainly an eventful year for the fashion industry: high-profile mergers and acquisitions, big retail players struggling to keep afloat, fashion designers buying back their brands... It’s time to look back at the most important developments of the year.

January

Hollywood actresses protested against sexual harassment and gender-based discrimination in the movie industry by wearing black dresses at the 2018 Golden Globes. French luxury conglomerate Kering announced it would sell its stake in Puma. Kim Jones left the role of Menswear Artistic Director at Louis Vuitton, while Hedi Slimane was announced as Celine’s new Creative Director.

February

Fashion designer Carolina Herrera retired from her namesake label. French label Jacquemus ventured into menswear for the first time, unveiling its debut collection at Paris Fashion Week. The UK government required companies to publish a gender pay gap report, forcing Marks & Spencer to reveal it pays women 12.3 percent less than men.

March

Amazon’s chairman Jeff Bezos dethroned Bill Gates as the world’s richest person. Stella McCartney bought her label back from Kering. Riccardo Tisci was announced by Burberry as its new Creative Director.

Meanwhile, Eyewear powerhouse Luxottica merged with lens maker Essilor to become the world’s largest eyewear company. In the United States, department store chain Nordstrom rejected a takeover by the Nordstrom family.

Asos embraced diversity by featuring a broad range of models on its website, but a government-enforced report revealed a the company’s gender pay gap is above the UK average.

Kim Jones took over at Dior Homme, while Off-White’s Virgil Abloh succeeded him at Louis Vuitton. Expectations were high for Abloh’s debut collection, as he was likely to bring more streetwear to the French fashion house.

April

John Galliano joined the list of luxury brands going fur-free. Spanish apparel group Cortefiel changed its name to Tendam. Both LVMH and Farfetch launched startup accelerators. Companies operating websites in the European Union had to comply with the new General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR) by the end of May, but less than one month before the deadline, several retailers still weren’t ready.

May

All eyes were on Meghan Markle’s sartorial choices ahead of her wedding with Prince Harry. She chose Givenchy’s Clare Waight Keller to design her wedding dress and Stella McCartney to create her reception gown. The latter received so many compliments McCartney decided to launch the dress commercially as part of a debut bridal line months later. Despite of Markle’s promotion of British fashion, UK retail is going through its toughest spot since 2013.

The month of May was also shaken by a video exposé from PETA depicting animal abuse in angora goat farms in South Africa, the world’s biggest mohair producer. This led a series of fashion brands, including H&M, Zara and Topshop, to to ban mohair from their collections.

With “Heavenly Bodies” as this year’s theme, MET Gala invited celebrities and fashionistas to explore the relationship between fashion and religion. One of the surprises on this year’s red carpet was the presence of fast fashion retailer H&M, which designed four custom-made looks. MET’s accompanying exhibition was an astounding success, having been visited by over 1.3 million people between May and September.

May was also the month of acquisitions, with Delta Galil acquiring Eminence; Fosun buying a majority stake in Wolford; Walmart buying Flipkart; Richemont acquiring Yoox Net-a-Porter; and Macy’s acquiring Story New York. Meanwhile, LVMH invested in fashion search engine Lyst and French label Carven filed for bankruptcy.

June

American fashion designer Kate Spade took her own life after years battling against depression. UK Parliament hosted a debate about fur. Belgian designer Dries van Noten sold his eponymous label to Spanish conglomerate Puig, raising the question whether it is possible for designers to survive independently, without the backing of a large corporation. Meanwhile, Italian fund FSI acquired 41 percent of Missoni’s shares.

Off-White’s suitcase collection in partnership with luxury luggage brand Rimowa became the new “it bag”. The brand led by Virgil Abloh also announced an upcoming collection with Ikea in June.

Speaking of successful collabs, Boohoo’s line with heiress turned reality TV star Paris Hilton flew off the (virtual) shelves. American brand Fashion Nova, an Instagram darling which turned out to be the most googled fashion brand of the year in the United States, unveiled its first menswear collection.

Also in June, Bottega Veneta parted ways with Creative Director Tomas Maier after 17 years and roped in 32-year-old Daniel Lee to succeed him. Guess co-founder Paul Marciano quit after supermodel Kate Upton accused him of groping her years ago.

July

Burberry came under fire for destroying unsold products in order to avoid markdowns. Dior relaunched its “Saddle Bag” after almost two decades. Puma and Dolce & Gabbana fought in court over fur sandals only a handful of people actually bought. Chinese e-commerce giant JD.com announced plans to launch in Europe following a 550 million investment from Google. Ivanka Trump ended her label after major retailers parted ways with her due to her father’s actions as president of the United States.

August

VF Corporation announced the spinoff of its denim brands Wrangler and Lee. Former employees sued Nike for gender discrimination and sexual harassment. Farfetch filed for IPO. Burberry unveiled a new logo and monogram under Riccardo Tisci. Helsinki Fashion Week pledged to ban leather. Italian label Ermenegildo Zegna acquired Thom Browne while Charlesbank bought footwear company Rockport out of bankruptcy. Italian hat maker Borsalino, made famous by Humphrey Bogart in “Casablanca”, also found new owners.

September

Five years after the Rana Plaza disaster, Bangladesh finally raised the minimum wage for garment workers. Nike went through another media storm after making an ousted NFL player the face of its advertising campaign. Speaking of controversy, Burberry took a step back and pledged to stop destroying unsold goods. The British label also promised to ban fur, as did London Fashion Week the same month.

But the biggest news of September was definitely the acquisition of Versace by Michael Kors Holdings,which changed its name to Capri Holdings Limited to better reflect its new status as a luxury conglomerate -- the company purchased footwear label Jimmy Choo in 2017.

Meanwhile, Alibaba’s Jack Ma announced his retirementby 2019, Madewell entered the menswear market and L Brands shut down Henri Bledel.

Hedi Slimane was met with criticism when he unveiled his debut collection for Celine (after changing the company’s name to Celine, without an accent on the first E, and adopting a minimalist logo). Fashionistas the world over accused him of being a one trick pony, pointing out the resemblance of his new pieces to his past work at Saint Laurent. Fans of Celine’s former Creative Director, Phoebe Philo, even gathered in Paris to celebrate the label’s previous designs and the search for old Celine items skyrockets on second-hand websites in the subsequent months.

October

After being heavily criticized for its low wages, Amazon decided to raise its minimum wage to 15 dollars an hour in the United States. The online giant also ventured into brick and mortar retail by launching a pop-up store in London. More stores across Europe popped up for the holiday season.

British investment firm Lion Capital LLP sold Hema to a Dutch investor 11 years after acquiring it from another Dutch investor. The company announced plans to expand even more in Europe and beyond.

Speaking of expansion, American personal styling service Stitch Fix announced its entrance in the UK market in 2019. Walmart acquired intimates label Bare Necessities while Icicle Group bought Carven out of bankruptcy. However, the Chinese apparel company found it best to part ways with the label’s Creative Director, Serge Ruffieux.

Speaking of Creative Directors, Jean-charles de Castelbajac took this role at United Colors of Benetton, for which 2018 wasn’t the best of years. Lacoste, the French label best known for its crocodile logo, also announced its first female Creative Director in History, Louise Trotter. After a collaborative capsule collection, Timberland roped in British designer Christopher Raeburn.

In the UK, Sports Direct acquired department store chain House of Fraser for 95 million pounds, and a series of store closings ensued. Debenhams isn’t doing much better: it decided to close over 50 stores in October, following a record annual loss of 492 million pounds. Meanwhile, Arcadia Group went through another kind of crisis: its chairman, Philip Green, was accused of sexual and racial harassment against employees, leading Topshop to fall in consumers’ opinion according to a survey.

It’s not only in the UK that department stores are struggling. US chain Sears, once the largest retailer in the world, also went officially bankrupt in October.

In Myanmar, female garment workers protesting for a living wage were violently attacked.

November

Proenza Schouler’s founders bought the company back from Castanea Partners. H&M closed down affordable denim brand Cheap Monday. Esprit announced a major rebranding strategy. Kering halted its seven-year e-commerce deal with Yoox Net-a-Porter, following the company’s acquisition by Kering’s competitor Richemont in May. Dolce & Gabbana was forced to cancel a fashion show in China due to a public outcry about an advertising campaign and racist marks supposedly made by Stefano Gabbana on Instagram. The designer claimed his account was hacked.

December

Ted Baker’s CEO took a leave of absence following a petition against “forced hugging” launched by employees of the company. London-based Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy was accused of equally appalling behavior, with screenshots of supposed inappropriate messages to a minor leaking on the Internet. Meanwhile, Prada was accused of racism and insensitivity due to an animal charm made to look like a monkey with large lips. Consumers said the piece looked very similar to blackface imagery.

Stan Smith scored lifelong deal with Adidas, while Chanel joined the ever-growing list of brands banning fur. Similarly to Burberry and Celine, Balmain launched a new, minimalist logo.

Farfetch acquired streetwear marketplace Stadium Goods. Rumors take the fashion world by storm about Raf Simons leaving Calvin Klein, following an earnings call in which the PVH CEO Emanuel Chirico said he was disappointed because the investments made on the label did not deliver the results he expected. L Brands (Victoria’s Secret) announced the sale of intimates brand La Senza to an affiliate of Regent LP, a global private equity firm, while VF finally announced the name of its separate jeanswear business: Kontoor Brands.

Laura Ashley, which went two times into administration in just three years, announced the closure of 40 stores in the UK. Speaking of stores closing, French retailers struggled in December as “yellow vest” protesters forced them to shut their doors for several weekends in a row. Meanwhile, in Bangladesh, the Bangladesh Accord came to a standstill.

Fashion giants such as H&M, Inditex and Burberry sign UN Charter to fight climate change.

Homepage image: courtesy of Nike; Courtesy of Michael Kors; Fashion Nova Facebook; Pixabay; Victoria Beckham Facebook; Yves Saint Laurent Facebook. Nicole Kidman - Hubert Boesl / DPA; Hedi Slimane - courtesy of LVMH; Carolina Herrera AW18/ Catwalkpictures; GDPR - Pixabay; Royal wedding - Andrew Matthews / POOL / AFP; Kate Spade website; Burberry Facebook; Wrangler by Peter Max; Courtesy of Michael Kors; Amazon newsroom; Diet Prada Instagram screenshot; Adidas.com

Source: https://fashionunited.com/news/fashion/2018-fashion-recap-most-important-news-of-the-year/2018121925217

[tasty-jam-factory]

Co-Op in Videogames

I find that few game developers know how to smoothly implement cooperative gameplay into their games. Plenty of amazing single-player games feature co-op modes that are severely disappointing. So, here is my criteria for a good co-op game.

Keep in mind, games filed under “Games that did this wrong” are not necessarily bad games. Most of them are great, and plenty of them even have fun co-op. The fact that they’re in that category just means they did something poorly, but can be fun in spite of that.

> All players should have equal or near-equal abilities and strengths.

The whole point of co-op is to allow more than one person to have fun, without the stress of competition as a primary motive. Nothing’s more upsetting than being player 2 (or 3, 4, etc.) in a game where player 2′s functionality is basically to sit back and watch, helping out from time to time. Both players should be majorly contributing to the team effort. The biggest difference between the two should be that maybe one of them controls the screen. The only exception to this rule is when all players have vastly different skill sets, but all parties are necessary to win (See: Never Alone).

Games that did this right: Portal 2, Spelunky, Shovel Knight

Games that did this wrong: Super Mario Galaxy, Most Kirby Games, Mariokart: Double Dash

> The co-op game should be slightly easier than the single-player game.

Co-op is not cheating, but it should feel like you’re kinda cheating a little bit. Let me explain: A smart game developer will create the level design with co-op in mind. That, or they will make two separate stories for single- and multi-player (See: Portal 2). Level design should involve little nooks and crannies that are easier to get into with a partner, or small sections that can be skipped by jumping on a friend’s head. You get the idea. At the very least, co-op should not make the game harder. Often times games suffer from a type of too-many-cooks syndrome wherein everyone just gets in each other’s way.

Games that did this right: Kirby’s Epic Yarn, Pid, Sonic the Hedgehog 2

Games that did this wrong: Broforce, Lovers in a Dangerous Spacetime, Super Mario 3D World

> Players should be able to fight eachother playfully.

Obviously, this is a bit of a side-note. I personally really appreciate games that allow you to punish your friends at any point in the game. This doesn’t particularly contribute to the game, but it’s just kinda fun to, y’know, throw your best friend into the void every now and then.

Games that did this right: New Super Mario Bros. Wii, Saint’s Row IV, Human Fall Flat

Games that did this wrong: Pretty much all games without this feature wouldn’t benefit from having it, so it’s no big deal.

> Sharing and trading should mean nothing goes to waste.

In a single-player campaign, tons of items can go to waste due to having no value for your class, race, style etc. Multi-player co-op should diversify items and characters enough that players can give eachother their useless items, so that nothing goes to waste, even if it’s as minor as sharing food in Kirby games with a little kiss kiss.

Games that did this right: Torchlight II, Astroneer, Don’t Starve Together

Games that did this wrong: Bloodborne, Monster Hunter

> Teamwork should inspire competition.

In a co-op game, players play together towards a common goal. However, the game should reward healthy competition between players. Simply showing an end-slate after a level to display how everyone did is enough to pump everyone up to do their best.

Games that did this right: LoZ: Four Swords, Super Smash Bros., Overwatch

Games that did this wrong: Trine

Cooperative gameplay should be fundamentally built around working together. Never should player 1 say, “can you wait over there while I do this on my own?” and never should player 2 say, “sorry, I was on my phone, what do you need?”

This is just my opinion, and while I am in no way credited to comment on professional game design, I do believe that a lot of co-op games could benefit from keeping some of these considerations in mind during development.

[ladystylestores]

For Stylists, COVID-19 Stopped Ad Campaigns, Celebrity Dressing, More – WWD

https://ift.tt/3ckqS6R

The COVID-19 pandemic has impacted the fashion world in numerous ways, forcing designers, manufacturers and retailers to come to a screeching halt and, for good and bad, take a breather. For some top stylists, the pause has meant placing on hold confirmed ad campaigns and magazine shoots, styling runway shows and celebrity dressing gigs.

The lockdown also has allowed the industry to recognize that quality rules over quantity, and that going forward there needs to be a greater emphasis on artistry and craftsmanship over simply speed and size. Leading stylists — who have privileged access to designers and almost every brand’s most expensive creations — generally got into the industry because of their fascination with fashion, with many of them treating clothes as collectibles, pieces that either had limited runs due to how intricate or ornate they were, or were a piece from a designer no longer alive.

Each has his or her own criteria as to what makes a piece special.

With that in mind, WWD caught up with stylists around the globe to discuss the personal archives they have assembled over the years, resulting in a trip down Fashion (Memory) Lane. The journey uncovered pieces from designers who have had an immense impact on fashion over the last 25 years, ranging from Alexander McQueen and Helmut Lang to Azzedine Alaïa, Marc Jacobs and more.

Here, a peek into stylists’ closets.

GARTH SPENCER

“I think the bag is one of my favorite pieces. It’s functional but decadently decorative, like a run-over soda can. Helmut Lang’s aesthetic has always felt timeless because of its ability to have never regressed in style or relevance to the world of design. Only physical decay and usage are what’s causing it to become extraneous. So it now lives in a bag of its own.”

BILL MULLEN

Marc Jacobs, fall 1997. “This is the world’s greatest sweater. Period. And I still wear it. Constantly.”

JULIE RAGOLIA

“This Chanel jacket was the first designer piece I purchased as a young stylist, perhaps around 2007. Though Victorian in style it’s a windbreaker, which I found funny. I often wear it while riding my bike around NYC, then crumple it into a bag. I don’t believe that clothing should ever be too precious to be functional. I’m at my farmhouse in the country where everything, including Chanel, needs to have practical ability. This jacket is a reminder to myself to make smart, long-term purchases, and to always find them fun. And if it gets muddy while planting, that’s also OK.”

ANNE CHRISTENSEN

“This dress is from the Callaghan collection by Nicolas Ghesquière, spring 2001. I remember seeing the show and loving the Grecian-meets-rocker vibe! The draping of the dress and the sash with a metal triangle in the back still look modern.”

JAY MASSACRET

“This is a Mao jacket from the spring 2007 Yves Saint Laurent Collection by Stefano Pilati. I’m really loving this piece at the moment. I love the allover photo print of a group in close proximity — the image is of crowd-goers at the seminal Woodstock festival in 1969. I also like the ease of wear (I’m a sucker for a good work jacket).”

HECTOR CASTRO 

Spring 2018 Kim Jones for Louis Vuitton leather trenchcoat in Navy blue.

“Runway looks speak to me on many different levels. The Vuitton trench I am wearing is one of the lightest pieces I own being totally unconstructed with no lining. In this strange time more than anything the idea of protection has become important for me. When I wear this trench, it feels simple, chic, a bit “Matrix”-y and I always feel protected in it. I have a love for leather, so a piece I can wear all of spring and again in the autumn months.…I just had to have it! More than ever it feels like such a good time to dig through your closet and find those pieces that really make you happy and pull them out. This trench is one of those items. I hope to have it forever.”

MOBOLAJI DAWODU

“I’m a big fan of uniforms, if it works, keep wearing it!

“I never go out without a hat, I have this hat in many different shapes and colors from around the world.  

“Moscot are my go-to glasses, love them, I won’t take them off — indoors or out.

“Got this jacket from the Caruso spring 2017 collection, the tailoring is impeccable and white/off-white outerwear is always elegant. I’ve had this neon sweatshirt for seven or eight years, I still exercise in it.

“Overalls — I’m a big kid and I mean, you really can’t go wrong with Clarks, also this color!

“A true gentleman wears a scarf…”

LUKE DAY

“My favorite archive piece at home right now is from the Versace spring 1994 collection, which was a truly seminal era of the brand. In my teens I was obsessed with Versace, I grew up with campaigns torn out of the pages of Vogue covering my walls and I have collected some great vintage pieces over the years. This chainmail tank top is originally from a Versace shoot for L’Uomo Vogue in 1994 with the British band Take That, photographed by Tiziano Magni.”

GRANT WOOLHEAD

“I’ve held onto lots of my clothes over the years and I’ve also let lots of pieces go. The things I tend to keep are either modern classics that still feel relevant to my wardrobe today or they are pieces that define a time or a memory for me. This beautiful peacoat is from Raf Simons’ men’s wear collection for Jil Sander, I think it is from his debut collection for Jil back in 2007. It’s an incredibly heavy wool coat, fully lined and it’s quite a boxy number that when I wear it kind of swings around, which I like. You can make great shapes with it. I always like to wear it with skinny jeans or slim trousers in a Mod-ish way with a clumpy shoe like it was dressed in the original show. This is another one of those classic pieces that never seems to date.”

JESSICA DIEHL

“Nicolas’ Balenciaga was an obsession of mine (not alone there) and that season’s Cristóbal tribute was one of my many favorites during his tenure. At the time they had these glorious sample sales and I stumbled upon this piece — it never made it into my favorite show, but was therefore not produced and one-of-a-kind — so a perfect justification for an outrageous price tag. But a kind of ‘couture’!

“The craftsmanship and construction were truly stunning, but even so it felt light. Not only that, it felt of value. No one does retro/futurist/modernist like Nicolas. 

“There are too many memories to count, but my favorite would have to be wearing it in a barn in Missouri surprised at how a ‘Rhinestone Cowboy’ theme really welcomed some couture, and how a cowboy boot can really change a look.”

TABITHA SIMMONS

“I have always been such a huge fan of Alaïa, when I found this in a vintage store my heart skipped a beat as it was from one of my favorite collections he did. My heart belongs to daddy!!!”

PATRICK MACKIE

“My Schott Perfecto Biker jacket which I bought when I moved to New York City some 15 years or so ago. I purchased it from this wonderful vintage store on Greenwich Avenue called Star Struck. The store no longer exists, which makes me sad, especially in terms of sustainable fashion and New York vintage shopping becoming harder as owners struggle to continue their business. This jacket holds a special place in my heart. I wore it everywhere dressed up and down, it traveled with me from far-off shooting locations such as Cairo for W magazine (2010) to the dance floor of the Beatrice Inn. This classic jacket has lived!”

ALISTER MACKIE 

Alister Mackie wearing an Alexander McQueen hat designed by Philip Treacy from the 2002 show — photographed by Venetia Scott at Marc Jacobs’ Halloween party in New York.

“This piece is very precious to me as it was part of the Hans Bellmer-inspired collection shown at the Conciergerie in Paris. I had an unforgettable experience working on the fittings for this collection with Lee and Sarah.”

TONNE GOODMAN

“It is my Azzedine Alaïa black leather trenchcoat from the mid-Eighties. I have coveted it for three decades. It is perfectly in style this very moment and will be forever.”

TOM VAN DORPE

“My favorite archive piece is this Maison Margiela jumpsuit, I have been wearing it for years. At work or at home.”

MELANIE WARD

“My love affair with vintage clothing began when I was 13. I can’t say that I have just one favorite piece from my clothing archive, but I love all of my vintage Azzedine Alaïa, especially the little suede and leather bra tops he made and I have worn them all a lot. Azzedine’s clothes always make me feel good in my skin and that is really important to me.”

“I bought the vintage Azzedine Alaïa in the Nineties and I believe he designed it in the early Eighties.”

JIM MOORE

“Sometime between 1996 and 1997, designer Helmut Lang relocated to New York City from his hometown of Vienna, Austria. He opened his flagship boutique on Greene street in SoHo and it was mad cool. The store was always restocked in time for the weekend, so I’d race to Greene Street on Saturday morning, hoping to score anything in black in a European size 54. His clothes were timeless and time-sensitive at the same time. The designer once said, ‘you will wear my clothes until they fall apart.’ A truthful quote that should have been stitched into every garment he created.  

“At one point, I found myself needing three of his black coats, each one for a different occasion and change of climate. A cotton moleskin reefer was perfect for an early fall weekend, a cashmere topcoat was a must for trips to Milan and Paris for the men’s shows, and a fur-trimmed parka was stylishly useful for a brutal New York City winter.

“It was the outerwear that really got me excited. This is the one that has been hiding out in my closet in Palm Springs, Calif., still in fashion and as stylish as ever, even in a pandemic.”

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[mega-wayne-l-wickizer]

Open the “Table of Contents” and click on an item of interest.  To return to that “Table of Contents” item, right-click your mouse and select “Back.”

Travesty and Tragedy

In terms of the sum of numbers reflecting a global human travesty and tragedy, it is arguably more ethical, moral, practical and safe to take campaign finance donations from Vladimir Putin, ISIS, The Taliban, The Mafia, North Korea or Iran than it should be ethical to finance one’s political campaign with money from Big Tobacco.

The mere act of having a proximity to and connivance with Big Tobacco is a travesty of unconscionable proportions … and … becomes either a study in arrogance and hypocrisy or abject brainless, heartless, and cowardly conduct by Utah’s Legislators.

51 Utah Legislators on the Take

Special interests gave Utah Lawmakers $9 of every $10 in campaign funds they raised. According to “Follow the Money.org,” the following are Utah Legislators who have raised campaign funds from tobacco companies and from tobacco product sales.  In other words, Big Tobacco has purchased  influence from these 51 Utah legislators found here http://tinyw.in/OI1P 

[pdf-embedder url=”https://justice4all.blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/ZTobacco.pdf”%5D

Tobacco Wars … Sharyl Attkisson

From Sharyl Attkisson (Bio) an Emmy award winning investigative journalist, host of Sinclair’s Sunday morning news program “Full Measure,” and author of the New York Times bestsellers: “The Smear” and Stonewalled” we share the following video.

The forgotten tobacco wars by Sharyl Attkisson on February 20, 2019 Watch our fascinating Full Measure investigation into the cigarette cancer trials still going on in Florida decades after many believed a major settlement ended the matter. Support the Attkisson v. DOJ/FBI Fourth Amendment Litigation Fund to fight the government computer intrusions. For more information, click here: https://www.gofundme.com/sharyl-attkisson-4th-am-litigation Full Measure TV Station List hereWatch anytime online at www.fullmeasure.news

Tobacco Wars Video

CDC Statistics

From the Center for Disease Control, “Cigarette smoking is responsible for more than 480,000 deaths per year in the United States, including more than 41,000 deaths resulting from secondhand smoke exposure. This is about one in five deaths annually, or 1,300 deaths every day.”

https://ourworldindata.org/terrorism

1,300 deaths every day equals more than the sum of the 2,996 deaths from the 9-11 Twin Towers disaster repeated every third day.

Smoking is #2 in cause of deaths by pollution

Who, Which, Where, What is truly more terrible … Smoking or Terrorism?

“We have met the enemy and they are us!” – Pogo

Smoking Also Has Serious Financial Repercussions  by Niall McCarthy, Jan 11, 2019

Alongside the serious health problems it causes, smoking can also burn a sizeable hold in your wallet. Tobacco use contributes to nearly half a million deaths in the U.S. every year and its economic and societal costs are over $300 billion annually.  A recent WalletHub study set out to find out how much smoking costs people in the U.S. over the course of their lifetimes. The research was based on the cost of a pack of cigarettes per day, health care expenditure and income losses and other costs due to the habit.   It found that Connecticut has the highest annual cost for a smoker at $55,973 each year. New York comes second with $55,911 while D.C. is in third place at $55,167. Shockingly, smoking a pack a day in Connecticut will cost a heavy smoker there a whopping $2.8 million through direct and associated costs in his or her lifetime.  

Special interests gave Utah Lawmakers $9 of every $10 in campaign funds they raised.

Constituent donations add up to about 3 percent of campaign accounts, raising questions about who’s got legislators’ ears. https://goo.gl/3rLFJA Tribune article by Lee Davidson January 23, 2018.

“Special interests provided 92 percent of all the campaign donations that members of the 2018 Utah Legislature raised last year. Only 3 percent came from individuals who live in the member’s district, a Salt Lake Tribune analysis of disclosure forms shows. This is a pattern seen over several years.”

From the Center for Disease Control (CDC) https://goo.gl/eDqvsm Smoking leads to disease and disability and harms nearly every organ of the body. More than 16 million Americans are living with a disease caused by smoking. For every person who dies because of smoking, at least 30 people live with a serious smoking-related illness. Smoking causes cancer, heart disease, stroke, lung diseases, diabetes, and chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD), which includes emphysema and chronic bronchitis. Smoking also increases risk for tuberculosis, certain eye diseases, and problems of the immune system, including rheumatoid arthritis. Smoking is a known cause of erectile dysfunction in males. Smoking is the leading cause of preventable death. Worldwide, tobacco use causes nearly 6 million deaths per year, and current trends show that tobacco use will cause more than 8 million deaths annually by 2030. Cigarette smoking is responsible for more than 480,000 deaths per year in the United States, including more than 41,000 deaths resulting from secondhand smoke exposure. This is about one in five deaths annually, or 1,300 deaths every day. On average, smokers die 10 years earlier than nonsmokers. If smoking continues at the current rate among U.S. youth, 5.6 million of today’s Americans younger than 18 years of age are expected to die prematurely from a smoking-related illness. This represents about one in every 13 Americans aged 17 years or younger who are alive today.

In an article by Lee Davidson of The Salt Lake Tribune, December 12, 2016, “So 88 percent of Utah legislators — eight of every nine — are members of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints.”  We know of at least one Mormon Bishop on the foregoing roster.

Orrin Hatch & Hypocrisy is the Mother’s Milk of Campaign Financing

WASHINGTON—Two high-ranking lawmakers on the Senate committee that crafts legislation about health and oversees public health agencies disclosed that they or their families traded in tobacco company stock while they were on the committee, according to a STAT review. Sen. Orrin Hatch (R-Utah) reported purchasing at least $15,000 worth of stock in Philip Morris International. Hatch reported that on Oct. 23, 2012, when he was a member of the committee, an account on which he is a joint owner acquired between $15,001 and $50,000 of Philip Morris stock. He reported that in 2013, he owned less than $1,001 of the stock and collected dividends between $201 and $1,000. https://goo.gl/NfWrwd

Most corrupt epoch in Utah’s history on a timeline found here https://goo.gl/g9rhbP

Utah Legislators’ Big Tobacco finance numbers are found at “Follow the Money.org” go to “My Legislature Utah 2018” go to “Legislator’s Name” go to “As a Candidate” and then go to “Top Industries.”  

      2019 Revised Big Tobacco and 50 of Utah’s Office Holders … The Travesty, Tragedy and Stupidity! Open the "Table of Contents" and click on an item of interest.  To return to that "Table of Contents" item, right-click your mouse and select "Back."

[k2kid]

18th Battalion Association[i] Windsor and Detroit Branch *MEMORIES[ii]*

When our Conventions are held at Windsor and we all parade to All Saints Anglican Church for our annual Memorial Service, it always brings back memories of our fist Chaplain, Captain Arthur Carlisle, who was the Minister at All Saints before and after the First War. Many officers and men of the Battalion worshipped at All Saints during their lifetime. Some still do.

We had only attended a few Church Parades in London and Sandling before we became convinced that Captain Carlisle could preach a better sermon, and do so in a nicer voice, than any other Chaplain in our Division. It was a pleasure to listen to him. We will always remember the beautiful service he conducted on the S.S. “Grampion” while we were at sea.

On Christmas Day (1915) two of our Companies were in the front line while the other two were in reserve at Ridgewood and Vurstraat [sic]. We were at Ridgewood.

We were later told that on Christmas morning, Captain Carlisle had gone into the front line and held a Communion Service for the officers and men who wished to attend. It was quite a setting, for only a hundred yards of no man’s land separated us from a powerful enemy. It so happened that on this day both sides were honouring an unofficial cease fire because the Germans, like ourselves, and the rest of the Christian world, were celebrating the birth of a child in a stable at Bethlehem many years before. We recall Major Baxter mentioning this unique service at one of our banquets.

Whoever selected the Rev. Arthur Carlisle of All Saints Anglican Church to be the first Chaplain of the Eighteenth Battalion made and excellent choice.

He was well-respected by the officers and men of the Battalion. We will always remember him.

The Story

The author, C.S.M. Abbott Ross, D.C.M., relates the experiences of one of the most visible men in the Battalion, Rev. (Captain) Carlisle. Captain Carlisle was the Battalion Chaplain from his enlistment on February 22, 1914 until April 15, 1916.

The story relates how central he was to the spiritual life of the soldiers, and then post-war, veterans, of the Battalion as he was active serving the church before the war and after the war. The men of the 18th found his sermons pleasing as he preached to the men and the author extols the value of his sermons and how he presented them to the troops. He also was willing to go to the men, even when they were in the front-line doing duty against the Germans and in close proximity to them.

This active engagement with the men won their respect and his sermon on that Christmas Day was remembered to the veterans of the 18th Battalion at a reunion after the war.

Discussion[iii]

Religion was a focal point for society in Canada during the war. There are no attestation papers that this author has reviewed (n = 2,000 +) in which the man enlisted has not listed a religious affiliation. There were apparently, at that time in Canadian history, no atheists or agnostics in the trenches. Thus, the role of religion in the C.E.F. was a significant part of the life of a member of the military and, by extension, the role of the Battalion Chaplin was a key component to the spiritual life of the men. The Chaplain’s flock involved the religious well-being of a diverse, mostly Christian[iv], polity and as a battalion appears to have had only one Chaplain from one religious denomination (Carlisle was Church of England / Anglican) administering to all the men’s various religious needs, this man would, without doubt, been known to every soldier of the battalion.

Chart of CEF Religous Affiliation at Attesation. Source: Source: C.E.F. Statistics (NAC, MG 30, Duguid Papers “CEF Statistics”, Religion. Note that Jewish is 0.4%. Due to rounding shows “0” percent.

This brief remembrance hi-lights the Reverend (Captain) Arthur Carlisle and his work with the 18th Battalion from his enlistment into the Battalion and his departure. Even with his departure, his connection with the Battalion extends to the post-war period where the 18th Battalion Association organizes its reunion activity with its participation in a church service at All Saints Anglican Church in Windsor. Carlisle moved to Montreal in December 1921 and may have participated in the reunions of 1919, 1920, and 1921.[v] It illustrates the efforts of Rev. Carlisle was willing to go to for the Battalion as he enters the front-line during Christmas Day to offer communion to the two companies serving there.

Officially, though enlisting with the 18th Battalion, Captain Carlisle was attached to the 4th Canadian Infantry Brigade and was subject to the orders and tasking of his superiors which could have been challenging for him to maintain his connection to his parent unit as he would have been responsible to the other three battalions making up the Brigade. Whatever the case, he is able to offer the eucharist to “his” battalion on Christmas Day.

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Above: “A UK ‘WW 1’ double communion kit in a named oak case.  The second chalice doubles up as a ciborium for the host (wafers).  Original items but assembled together for this display.” Source: Chaplains at War (UK)

This act of Communion would encompass many of the men practicing under Christian denominations and would have been especially significant during this particular Christmas. This was the first Christmas that the Battalion had experienced away from Canada. The Women’s Canadian Club of London had organized a dinner for the entire Battalion[vi]. Now, in Belgium, the ability to celebrate as a unit was denied due to the unit be subject to the requirements of the service. Two companies, “A” and “C”, were in the front-line and “B” and “D” were in battalion reserve. The men would be home sick with many cards, letters, and packages reminding them of home, so far away. Coupled with their baptism of fire in the trenches in the Ypres Sector with the resulting dead and wounded suffered, the men would rely on the comfort of each other’s company and that of the solace and comfort of their faith and the practice of that faith. From September to December 1915 the 18th Battalion had suffered twenty-four fatalities. These deaths had an impact on the members of the Battalion due to the position of the soldier killed. It is with certainty that the soldiers serving knew that continued combat would lead to many more men wounded and killed.

As a Battalion Chaplain Carlisle had a duty to serve his men:

“…and chaplains moved forward into the trenches. Yeas of suffering and sorrow stripped away every personal disguise and every religious trapping. Denominational barriers faded as chaplains called upon every spiritual resource they could muster to meet the challenges of suffering and death.”[vii]

His Communion Service in the trenches was one such act. With some risk. Not just, as noted by the story-teller, the threat of German action by breaking the tacit cease-fire being observed during the second Christmas of the war, but also because, under British regulations (under which the men of the C.E.F. were subject to) chaplains were not permitted in active service areas. This did not stop them. Their duty to their men, of all faiths, was greater than the fear of official rebuke:

“Their first test of allegiance came as soon as the chaplains went to the front. British Army authorities restricted their chaplains from going forward into the trenches, cloistering them in rear area hospitals. Canadian officers, therefore followed suit. Although chaplains in both the British and Canadian forces objected, Canadians systematically disobeyed the order, sharing the dangers of the front with their men. The campaign to defy the orders let to chaplains’ sneaking into the line and conducting trench visits and burials after dark, occasionally fast-talking their way past the senior officers who challenged them. Though some were unofficially rebuked and ordered to the rear, most chaplains disobediently flung themselves into front-line actions through the 1915 and early 1916 fighting and frequented the Canadian trenches between battles.”[viii]

Save for this “memory” this unselfish act, so emblematic of the values of many religions, for the spiritual comfort of his flock at a trying and stressful time for the young men of the Battalion would vanish into time. His efforts are remembered fondly by the author of the memory and one wonders if members maintained contact with Reverend Carlisle while he served his church in Montreal.

Captain Carlisle’s service with the 18th Battalion began on February 22, 1915[ix], shortly before the departure of the Battalion to England and ended, per an affidavit on file in his service record, on July 5, 1916. Thus, he served with the Battalion for over a year, from its embarkation to England to just after the bloody and confusing battle at the St. Eloi Craters. The service records do not give any indication why he was “Permitted to Resign” but he did resign his commission upon his return to Canada and re-entered civilian life, presumably at his prior assignment at All Saints Anglican Church. Post-war Reverend Carlisle would rise in the clergy of the Anglican church, eventually obtaining the position of Bishop of Montreal.

He died at the age of 61 on January 5, 1943 and his funeral reflected the communities regard for this man.

Conclusion

The “memory” of the Reverend (Captain) Carlisle illustrates the bond between men in military service and in combat and that the religious differences between these men become minimized by their shared experience and faith. This ethos was not necessarily reflected pre and post-war in Canadian society. The higher ideal of Christianity is realized in war, but not by the hard-earned peace. Yet, under the stress and circumstances of war, men, and by a larger extent humanity, can extend their understanding and tolerance in their shared values and faith.

The men of the 18th Battalion remembered their chaplain. He served his flock well and they paid tribute to him decades after his service in the Canadian Army.

Fittingly, the following statement summarizes Carlisle’s values:

“Rabbi Harry J.Stern, of Temple Emanu-El, voiced the following tribute to the late Bishop:

‘We mourn the passing of Bishop Carlisle. He was a great champion in the cause of Christian – Jewish fellowship and better understanding. On a number of occasions he graced the pulpit of my own synagogue and thus reinforced our faith in our common religious heritage.

In his going, we of the Jewish community have lost a great Christian friend, and the religion community generally, a consecrated and prophetic religious leader.’”[x]

“Interfaith Passover Seder, Temple Emanu-El, ca. 1960s. Rabbi Dr. Harry J. Stern with dinner participants.” Source: Museum of Jewish Montreal.

Who knows how much his war service and experience influenced his future practice as a priest?

[i] The blog has come into the possession of an exciting and valuable series of documents care of Dan Moat, a member of the 18th Battalion Facebook Group. His Great Grand-Father, Lance-Corporal George Henry Rogers, reg. no. 123682 was an active member in the 18th Battalion Association and the Royal Canadian Legion. With is interest in the post-war Association a series of “MEMORIES” in the form of one-page stories relate many of the Battalion’s experiences from the “other ranks” soldiers’ point-of-view.

It appears that the documents were written in the early 1970s by C.S.M. Abbott Ross, D.C.M., a full 50-years after the end of The Great War and are a valuable social history of soldiers’ experiences as told in their own words about the events that happened a half-century ago to them, and now a full century for us.

[ii] The transcription and research of these “memories” is an attempt to connect and identify the people mentioned in the stories with some accuracy. This is, in no way, a definitive identification of the people in the stories but there is high confidence that these are the men mentioned in the “memories”. In some cases, the story may identify people, places, dates, times, and details inaccurately and, where possible, these details are noted. Given that the men relating these memories would be in there late 70s, at the minimum, their errors can be forgiven. The stories related stand on their own as a social history of the experiences of the men of the 18th Battalion.

[iii] Thanks to the assistance of Major (Padre) Mike Peterson, Ph.D. for the article that helped to flesh out this article and broaden this author’s perspective.

[iv] According to the Duguid Papers “CEF Statistics” the Jewish faith only represented 0.4% of the population.

[v] It is interesting to note that the creation of the 18th Battalion Association may have been the first association of its kind to spawn from the needs of the veterans to support each other. It also indicates the strength of the bond of the men of the Battalion as the association would be made up of men who originated with the Battalion at its inception and to the replacements that came to the Battalion during the war.

[vi] See The Christmases of the 18th Battalion for more information.

[vii] The Ecumenical Model of Ministry in the Canadian Forces Chaplain Branch: A Compendium of Articles: Resource for the United Church of Canada and Anglican Church of Canada Dialogue. Section A. Historic Foundations – A Precis of Canadian Military Chaplaincy. Major (the Rev Canon) Eric Reynolds. Page 12. Pub: National Defence (Canada), 2003.

[viii] Obedient Rebels: Canadian Chaplains in World War 1. Page 14. (Source to be determined.)

[ix] He was officially appointed Battalion Chaplain on February 27, 1915.

[x] Thongs Pass Bier of Bishop Carlisle. The Montreal Gazette. January 8, 1943. Page 17.

“…a consecrated and prophetic religious leader.”: The Reverend (Hon. Captian) Carlisle 18th Battalion Association[i] Windsor and Detroit Branch *MEMORIES* When our Conventions are held at Windsor and we all parade to…