#chinese clothing

[ziseviolet]

If the coats with hoods aren’t historically accurate, what coats did Chinese people wear prior to the modern period?

Hi! Thanks for the question, and sorry for taking ages to reply!

By "coats with hoods", I assume you're referring to the doupeng/斗篷 (cloak/cape) commonly seen in modern hanfu and guzhuang (drama costumes), like the one below (x):

Chinese people did wear doupeng prior to the modern period, along with other kinds of coats. However, as I mentioned in my post here, historical Chinese doupeng did not have hoods attached to the cloak/cape. That is why many modern doupeng aren't considered historically accurate - because they have hoods attached. Below are examples of more historically accurate, hoodless doupeng (1/2):

In the image on the above left, the model is wearing a separate, detached hood/hat called fengmao/风帽 (wind hat) which was historically worn to keep warm. Below - examples of fengmao (1/2):

Historically, fengmao was often worn with doupeng when travelling during cold weather (x). Below - women wearing doupeng & fengmao in historical art (top row), and Chinese opera performers wearing doupeng & fengmao as part of their costumes (bottom row) (x):

Oftentimes the doupeng & fengmao are matching, which can give the impression that they are attached - but if you look carefully, you can see that they are separate. Below - Chinese opera costume (x):

Below are historical photos of women wearing doupeng in 1920s Beijing - note how they are hoodless (1/2):

Hooded doupeng, in contrast, are more similar to historical western cloaks, such as the below American/European cloaks from the 18th century (1/2):

The hooded doupeng of modern hanfu are likely based on those seen in guzhuang dramas - another instance of drama costumes not being the most historically accurate (x):

An example of a drama with a historically accurate depiction of doupeng & fengmao is the 1987 TV adaptation of Dream of the Red Chamber. As seen in the below images, the characters wear hoodless doupeng & occasionally matching fengmao as part of their winter wardrobe (1/2/3):

The 1994 TV adaptation of Romance of the Three Kingdoms also depicts historically accurate, hoodless doupeng & matching fengmao worn by men (x):

For more references, please check out my doupeng, fengmao, and winter wear tags.

Hope this helps!

[newhanfu]

Hanfu Fashion - Ma Mian Skirt

From Chi Zhou Hanfu

[peekofhistory]

直裾战国袍 / Straight-edged Warring States robe: Distinguished by the excessive amount of fabric for the sleeves and the waist-to-floor straight edge, this style of Warring States robe was worn between the Warring States period and the Han Dynasty.

Warring States robes can usually be purchased in 2 lengths; - trailing on the floor (great for photos, awful for walking) - hemmed right at the floor (not as beautiful in photos, a lot easier for walking) Most stores selling this style of robes have skipped the extra piece of fabric between the sleeve and body, changing the entire drape of the fabric. Instead of it naturally opening at the front, this small change in the design causes the fabric to be completely closed at the front which makes walking without stepping on the fabric impossible (speaking from personal experience) T___T

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Hanfu, the historical clothing of the Han people in China, has thousands of years of history. Since the 2000s, there has been a revival of Hanfu within China, with many Hanfu stores opening in the past two decades.

I first became aware that I could purchase Hanfu in 2021 and hoarded a bunch. Recently, I started digging more and more into the topic and realized that, while many of the Hanfu being sold are beautiful, they're not exactly true to the styles of Hanfu in the past. That's not to say they shouldn't be sold or worn, I'm not interested in gatekeeping what others wear, but I became intrigued by what exactly DID the historical Hanfu styles look like based on historical artefacts.

For my own interest, and for any others who might be interested, I'm going to try and do a series of the various Hanfu styles throughout the dynasties.

Chinese dynasties timeline for reference:

Shang Dynasty 商 (1300–1046 BC) Zhou Dynasty 周 (1046–256 BC) Western Zhou 西周 (1046–771 BC) Eastern Zhou 东周 >> Spring and Autumn Period 春秋 (770–481 BC) >> Warring States Period 战国 (481–221 BC) Qin Dynasty 秦 (221–207 BC) Han Dynasty 汉 >> Western Han 西汉 (206 BC–8 AD) >> Xin Dynasty 新 (9–23) >> Eastern Han 东汉 (25–220) Three Kingdoms 三国 (220–265) Jin Dynasty 晋 >> Western Jin 西晋 (265–316) >> Eastern Jin 东晋 (317–420) Northern and Southern Dynasties 南北朝 (420–589) Sui Dynasty 隋 (581–618) Tang Dynasty 唐 (618–907) Five Dynasties 五代 (907–960) Song Dynasty 宋 >> Northern Song 北宋 (960–1127) >> Southern Song 南宋 (1127–1279) Yuan Dynasty (Mongols) 元 (1271–1368) Ming Dynasty 明 (1368–1644) Qing Dynasty (Manchus) 清 (1644–1911) Republic of China 民国 (1912–1949) People's Republic of China 中华人民共和国 (1949-present)

[miaopastrie]

chinese miku!!! in qin dynasty style hanfu, and modern (ish) qipao. i love this trend so much it’s so cool to see everyone put their culture into miku

[strangekaleidoscopesewing]

Just wanted to share a hanfu I completed recently!

It consists of four pieces: a long overcoat, a sheer pink inner coat, a solid pink top inside the inner coat, and a black mamianqun (pleated skirt). The overcoat has patterned cuffs and a patterned collar made out of the same fabric as the mamianqun (if you look closely, you can see the pattern on the collar and sleeve cuffs on the mamianqun itself). On the back of the coat, I hand-painted a dragon and phoenix that was based on the design of the front panel of the mamianqun. (I do Chinese painting and calligraphy, so I just used fabric paint and some Chinese painting techniques.) The sheer inner coat is made of a sheer pink fabric with blue bias tape finishings on its collar and sleeves. The pink top inside the collar has an embroidered collar (jiaolingyouren, closes on right as per traditional Chinese garments) and ties on the inside and outside (not visible here because they are covered by the skirt and by the shirt itself). The mamianqun arguably took me the longest to complete: it has seven front-facing pleats and seven back-facing pleats on each side, which took me way too long to iron lol. It has ties that wrap around the back and tie in the front. All fabric except from the pink and blue solid colors is from Taobao, and the bias tape is from Joanns.

This is a pretty untraditional combination of garments; I've seen the mamianqun worn primarily with a square-neck top (not sure what this is called, but I think it was from the Ming dynasty period?), and never with a top with a jiaolingyouren. I modified patterns from the book "Traditional and Modernized Hanfu Pattern Making" by TT Duong, which I highly recommend :) The entire project took a total of 30-40 hours (conservative estimate) and the fabric painting took 7 hours.

Overall I'm really proud of the entire project! I created this so that I could enter it into the Scholastic Art and Writing Awards under Fashion (I'm a high schooler) and I had a lot of fun making it :) I'm thinking of making a green one next!

[asian-folk-wardrobe]

[yukaro353]

"The seasons continue to pass and they seem to never tire of looking at each other"

❄️

(I like to think that Tenzin was just a little jealous, he had such a beautiful woman, anyone would want to see her with adoration)

[soukokukhuun]

Chinese Clothes BSD New Official Art

[knyazsunandmoon]

总攻是只猫

[ziseviolet]

Ting Xun/听旬 Summer Collection

Ting Xun/听旬 is a Taobao shop that offers refined, understated modified hanfu, hanyuansu, and guofeng looks that are meant to blend seamlessly into the activities of daily life - such as working in an office, going on an outing, or attending a cocktail party. It provides many options for those who want to incorporate hanfu elements into their regular wardrobe.

[newhanfu]

Tang Dynasty Hanfu Illustration

From the illustrator: Mu You Zhi

[andelkacroatia]

[luna-lux]

I will continue to draw my HxH hanfu/historical Chinese AU until I'm old and wrinkly and can't draw anymore

[madeleineengland]

Zhang Yuxi in ancient costume for a Guerlain event

[strangekaleidoscopesewing]

as my first post on this sewing blog, i figured i'd post my 馬面裙 (mamianqun) and 交領右任 (jiaolingyouren) that I made!

i made this as a muslin so that i can figure out if i need to adjust anything before i do the top/mamianqun combo with better fabric. the red/gold fabric is from Taobao and the black fabric is a cotton from Joann's! i'm planning to do another top/mamianqun combo with a black/blue/pink/purple patterned mamianqun and a pink or blue top

the mamianqun took me approximately 8 hours (this is a conservative estimate), and the top surprisingly took much less (at most 3 hours). this is because pleats take FOREVER

as of right now, the outfit fits me really well; there are a lot of threads that I need to cut that are hanging off the top, but they're covered by the mamianqun right now :)

I'm very proud of this project, and when I wear this set I feel like a cdrama princess or female lead!

[dumplingprincessextraordinaire]

Eeeeeppp someone drew them in HANFU GO HEAD (I know those are clearly the Goetias but which characters actually are they?)

Art by @/SinnerStarx on twitter