#change! even if not at the same pace. i imagine RGB as taking place in a 90s kind of environment bcuz thats when it was written!

[infizero]

THEYRE SO CUTEEEE

[silviascorcella]

Fashion Conversation: LEE WOOD - L72

Contemplare le sue creazioni, e intanto scoprire dalle sue parole garbate quel che racchiudono, regala la soffusa sensazione di trovarsi come di fronte ad un’opera di pittura intimista, dove le composizioni quiete di luce morbida e colori nitidi sono invero un loquacissimo sguardo sulla realtà. 

Lui è Lee Wood e il suo brand L72 rappresenta un’avventura stilistica molto recente, ma che ha già conquistato il vasto plauso del pubblico e trionfato, tra le altre, sulla pregiata passerella di Who is On Next? 

La sua moda racchiude percorsi compositi che per buona parte si sono svolti al fianco di Donatella Versace. Una moda che oggi si racconta attraverso la più nobile e sovversiva forma di lusso: la libertà.

[ENGL.]

Going through his creations, and in the meantime discovering from his nice words what they encompass, makes you feel like being in front of a piece of intimist art painting, where the quiet combinations of tender light and vivid colors are indeed a very eloquent glaze on reality. He is Lee Wood and his brand L72 represents a very recent stylistic adventure, but that has already won the ample plaudit of the public and triumphed on the prestigious stage of Who Is On Next? contest. His fashion universe embraces multi-faceted paths, that to a great extent took place alongside Donatella Versace. A fashion universe that today reveals itself through the noblest and most subversive kind of luxury: freedom.

Tell us about yourself and your background: when did the very first encounter with fashion happen and how did it become your professional way? I’m English, born and raised in the countryside near Reading, in the Berkshire county, along the famous River Thames. After the compulsory education I decided to start following my artistic path by entering The Berkshire College of Art & Design, where I studied art, fashion and design. So, when I was 19, I decided to move to London in search of a job and new horizons. I remember two incisive moments concerning my approach in fashion: the first one, when I was a child and my mum, coming back from a ski holiday, was wearing a custom-made dove gray mink coat. That was the first time I ever saw anything like that closely, and that, especially, I could even touch it. So my mum, all proud, showed me the lining with her initials jacquard-woven … I couldn’t believe it, it seemed like a miracle! The second moment was when I went with my mother (it’s always her fault!) to the hairdresser: while waiting for her turn, she was reading some fashion magazines and I gazed at those pictures so glossy, so impeccable, so far from my world, and my mind ran formulating a thousand ideas and as many thoughts. My career began in London, when I started to be the assistant of the stylist David Thomas: it’s thanks to him that one night I had the chance to meet Kinder Aggugini that, in his turn, introduced me to Donatella Versace.

How, why and with what style vision was your label L72 born? My brand comes from my urge to give voice to my personal aesthetic. I’m a reserved person, rather quiet and loner, but inside me my imagination continuously creates, wherever I am and all hours of the day. I’m like a Marcello Piacentini’s building: rigorous, symmetrical, neat, but with the interiors designed by Lorenzo Castillo. After 16 years at Versace, I felt the need for trying new creative ways. I had decided to open my own design consulting studio in 2013 when, while I was making some samples for promoting my activity, I realized that I was subconsciously laying the foundation of my own line. I spoke with different people and friends within the sector and the feedback was more than positive, everybody said I was crazy! I was happily surrounded by products speaking a common language, that could be a total look, without even thinking of it, it was pure instinct. Thus, the things that had been existing in my fantasy for years became concrete and my vision became real. At that point I could not come back anymore !

Your own creative world is instinctual, beauty is a personal point of view, materials are the issue of experimentations and entrepreneurship is essential: what do these elements entail and how does their harmony happen in your fashion? For me everything is connected, I’m always present in my job and in every planning phase of the creative path. I don’t like staying at the desk, I prefer staying around instead, with the suppliers, at the studios, with the printer, at the photography studio to work together and “get my hands dirty” with the people helping me to realize my dream. And it’s thanks to them too, their energy, experience and diligence, if today I am here: every day I learn something new, and this is my nourishment. Today being creative is not enough, unfortunately: our world has become too much complicated and contradictory. You can’t create if you don’t have a support structure; you can’t have a support structure if you don’t have the resources and if you don’t have the resources you can’t make a production that would allow you to produce the next season … as they say in Italy “a dog chasing its own tail”! The expectations have become so much high and strict, accompanied by a very frantic pace of life, that there is a strong risk of implosion. Today a fashion designer must be also a manager, director, sales representative, and self-assistant: that’s crazy! I pay attention to the business and numbers: I’ve been working for 22 years as a salesman and creative director, I would be fool if I wasn’t concerned with the business aspect too, I have a lot of experience and I’d like to improve more and more, but doing things right takes a lot of time and energy and I often find myself leaving the creative part aside for the nights or weekends, when the rest of my world rests and grants me the silence and peace I need to think clearly. My instinct is strong, when I draw my first thought is always the right one for me: if I linger on too much developing  and redrawing, I always end up going back to the beginning. I love neat and graphic fashion, the proportions and the blending of male and female: a sort of “uniform for the future”, a combination of history and street.

Describe your last collection: what kind of inspiration does it originate from and how does this imagery take tangibly form within the creations? The spring/summer collection is called “Primary”: the concept of starting from zero. Last February (2015) I launched my brand with an exclusive press presentation, the project was called “Collection Zero: Non Conditioned”, so I was really starting from zero for the summer production. It’s a journey inside my childhood, moments where I became aware of the world I was in, a pure and instinctive approach, when colors enthralled me and at the same time taught me the chromatic circle, that the primary colors, red, yellow and blue were the main base for all the color blocks, like when I was a kid and I played with Legos, or rather I had fun organizing them by color. I thought to juxtapose this idea of nostalgia with a reflection on the expression of the time we’re living in, so it’s not only a mere memory of my naïf world. I added an embroidery made of real mini-disks: a while ago we used to think that CDs and mini-disks were so futuristic, but today almost no one touches music anymore, CDs have already turned old and young people think they’re something outdated. Our world changes so quickly and the primary colors of that time, my RGB, today are different because our reality is enclosed in a 2.0 world that broadcasts images and colors through the light. Today the main colors are red, green and blue. Ultimately, between a picture you hold in your hand or the same picture that you can see by Internet apparently nothing changes, but I know that the base is truly different.

One name inside and one outside the fashion world you would love to work with? Inside the fashion world I would really love to collaborate with Melanie Ward. I already had the chance to meet her and work with her when she was working with Versace: I really love her style, she’s English like me, and I think that her sensibility marries beautifully with my aesthetic. Whereas, outside the fashion world I’d say Olafur Eliasson, the Danish artist, I think he’s absolutely brilliant. His works begin with a different perspective on our world through lights, colors and science. They’re studies involving the environment to emphasize ��hyper reality” concepts: his art captivates me, moves me, amazes me and destabilizes me at the same time, but gladly. I get a powerful and harmonious vibe from it, but with strong social messages.

Beauty will save the world, a renowned quote holding some truth for those who create fashion: what is your ideal about beauty? Will beauty really save the world? How can we categorize beauty in order to realize, then, if that kind of “beauty” could be our salvation? It’s so compelling, personal, it doesn’t mean we want to rely on beauty as if it was a religion, hell no! As for me, the idea of beauty must be dissected and employed depending on the subject. The proportions of a dress, the finishing of a table, a woman walking on the street, the sound of an instrument, things that people may even not like, meanwhile. But we all have our point of view, luckily! Perfection doesn’t exist, thank goodness; here’s what I think is good, the fact that imperfections exist and when we’ll be aware and at peace with this thought, we’ll finally get free from the so called “classic standards” that only bother me. I think nature gets close to perfection, it has its own balance that makes it unapproachable and mystical; but then the human being arrives and thinks he can enhance it, but he only makes disasters, as he often does for himself trying to reach “beauty”. Last summer I worked with MEG for her tour where she featured the album “Imperfezione”: we hit it off, we have several things in common. In an interview she states “I suddenly realized that the possible takes place within the imperfection and not within perfection, that is an abstract world, strict, an archetype, always the same as itself” and this is what we must convey to the world, the diversity, and teach the young people to accept themselves and their neighbor. This is my idea of beauty. A nice, respectful, natural creature.

If I say “imitation of life” (the theme of this Hachi Mag issue n.d.r.): what comes into your mind? I believe that what we’re living is an “imitation of life”. There’s something so insane in our today’s world that I can not think otherwise. I don’t think that this can be considered life, but that we’re literally surviving. We’re conditioned, directed, fed, driven by people and mechanisms that don’t want our prosperity. The world has turned into a game of powers and abuses and our lives are put on the line to bolster a media spectacle that can make us believe the unbelievable, and keep us quiet. As for me, life is something else.

Among the accolades received and the exquisitely personal dreams: what are your projects for the future? My first thought is to continue working, learning and living the best life I can: maybe this is a little fanciful vision, but it’s true. For my brand, I would be able to develop a well-established business that can create the L72 lifestyle by extending the product categories in order to include various licences. Then, if I could dream, think freely without any limits … I would love to buy a plot of land in the countryside and build a brand new home where I could live in complete peace with a lot of animals, where I could finally resume my love of horseback riding and keep on creating from a studio overlooking the hills.

Silvia Scorcella

[Published on Hachi Magazine issue n°4]