#but I happen to have experience with AMD processors

[hex-flareheart]

A lot of this is good advice, but I do have to contest the processor recommendation (also storage to a lesser extent).

First of all: On all recent generations, a given i or Ryzen number is generally regarded as equivalent. This means that an i3 and a Ryzen 3 will typically get you the same level of performance. This is particularly relevant for any Ryzen processor 3000 or later. (1000 and 2000 fall behind slightly compared to "equivalent" Intel.)

Second, as a general rule, if all you're doing is things with programs like Microsoft Office or a browser, generally any modern CPU that isn't completely bottom-of-the-barrel will do you just fine. A higher-end i3 or Ryzen 3 will work just fine, though you may not see as much longevity out of the build. An i5 or Ryzen 5 is a better benchmark to aim for, though, that much is certainly true.

Third, something that is relevant specifically for AMD is generation hierarchy, as starting from 3000 things get a little confusing:

1000 is the first generation of Ryzen; these will work in a pinch, but you're definitely better off with later generations

2000 is the second generation, and overall an extremely robust platform; if you can get a good price on later generations, obviously go for them, but this generation still holds up extremely well even today (source: been rocking a 2600 for the past 5 years with zero issues or need to upgrade)

3000 and 4000 are third generation, with 3000 being the chips you'll mostly see, while 4000 is a differently-optimized set of processors meant in part for budget

5000 and 6000 are fourth generation, but you'll pretty much only see 5000 in the wild; 6000 is afaik pretty specific in application

7000 is fifth generation, best available as of the writing of this text, but may not be affordable because it's brand spanking new; if in doubt, favor an equivalent 5000 unless you can get a good price on a 7000.

Lastly on the note of processors, as mentioned above, aiming for an i5 or Ryzen 5 if in doubt is good practice; you can get away with an i3 or Ryzen 3 if you expect the machine to see light use, but an i5 or Ryzen 5 will do you better in the long run. The same cannot be said of the higher-tier processors.

With regards to i7/Ryzen 7 and i9/Ryzen 9, they pretty much fall outside the scope of this post. The 7s are overkill for anything outside of more demanding applications like video editing, simulation, engineering, etc., and the 9s tend to be the processor equivalent of supercars. They're incredibly expensive, incredibly flashy, and far more than you'll ever need. Anyone who tells you you need to buy a 9 is lying or a techbro sycophant.

Final note regarding storage: Having an SSD as your main drive is very good advice, however do not dismiss HDDs. Having one as your main drive will make your overall use of the machine notably slower, but they are excellent for auxiliary and archival storage. SSDs are coming down in price, yes, but particularly at large sizes they'll often still come out significantly more expensive than an HDD of the same size, and the speed difference isn't anywhere near as impactful outside of an OS drive context. The main exception is laptops, not that I think any are being sold with HDDs anymore; SSDs are far more physically resilient, which is better for portability.

(One final note, and this is an extreme edge case pretty much no one actually reading this post will see: If you're expecting to regularly alter/move data on the order of gigabytes, you may not want to do so on your main drive if it's an SSD, as this can eat into the drive's lifespan. If handling such large volumes of data, I'd recommend doing so on a dedicated drive, whether SSD or HDD.)

So You Need To Buy A Computer But You Don't Know What Specs Are Good These Days

Hi.

This is literally my job.

Lots of people are buying computers for school right now or are replacing computers as their five-year-old college laptop craps out so here's the standard specs you should be looking for in a (windows) computer purchase in August 2023.

PROCESSOR

Intel i5 (no older than 10th Gen)

Ryzen 7

You can get away with a Ryzen 5 but an intel i3 should be an absolute last resort. You want at least an intel i5 or a Ryzen 7 processor. The current generation of intel processors is 13, but anything 10 or newer is perfectly fine. DO NOT get a higher performance line with an older generation; a 13th gen i5 is better than an 8th gen i7. (Unfortunately I don't know enough about ryzens to tell you which generation is the earliest you should get, but staying within 3 generations is a good rule of thumb)

RAM

8GB absolute minimum

If you don't have at least 8GB RAM on a modern computer it's going to be very, very slow. Ideally you want a computer with at least 16GB, and it's a good idea to get a computer that will let you add or swap RAM down the line (nearly all desktops will let you do this, for laptops you need to check the specs for Memory and see how many slots there are and how many slots are available; laptops with soldered RAM cannot have the memory upgraded - this is common in very slim laptops)

STORAGE

256GB SSD

Computers mostly come with SSDs these days; SSDs are faster than HDDs but typically have lower storage for the same price. That being said: SSDs are coming down in price and if you're installing your own drive you can easily upgrade the size for a low cost. Unfortunately that doesn't do anything for you for the initial purchase.

A lot of cheaper laptops will have a 128GB SSD and, because a lot of stuff is stored in the cloud these days, that can be functional. I still recommend getting a bit more storage than that because it's nice if you can store your music and documents and photos on your device instead of on the cloud. You want to be able to access your files even if you don't have internet access.

But don't get a computer with a big HDD instead of getting a computer with a small SSD. The difference in speed is noticeable.

SCREEN (laptop specific)

Personally I find that touchscreens have a negative impact on battery life and are easier to fuck up than standard screens. They are also harder to replace if they get broken. I do not recommend getting a touch screen unless you absolutely have to.

A lot of college students especially tend to look for the biggest laptop screen possible; don't do that. It's a pain in the ass to carry a 17" laptop around campus and with the way that everything is so thin these days it's easier to damage a 17" screen than a 14" screen.

On the other end of that: laptops with 13" screens tend to be very slim devices that are glued shut and impossible to work on or upgrade.

Your best bet (for both functionality and price) is either a 14" or a 15.6" screen. If you absolutely positively need to have a 10-key keyboard on your laptop, get the 15.6". If you need something portable more than you need 10-key, get a 14"

FORM FACTOR (desktop specific)

If you purchase an all-in-one desktop computer I will begin manifesting in your house physically. All-in-ones take away every advantage desktops have in terms of upgradeability and maintenance; they are expensive and difficult to repair and usually not worth the cost of disassembling to upgrade.

There are about four standard sizes of desktop PC: All-in-One (the size of a monitor with no other footprint), Tower (Big! probably at least two feet long in two directions), Small Form Factor Tower (Very moderate - about the size of a large shoebox), and Mini/Micro/Tiny (Small! about the size of a small hardcover book).

If you are concerned about space you are much better off getting a MicroPC and a bracket to put it on your monitor than you are getting an all-in-one. This will be about a million percent easier to work on than an all-in-one and this way if your monitor dies your computer is still functional.

Small form factor towers and towers are the easiest to work on and upgrade; if you need a burly graphics card you need to get a full size tower, but for everything else a small form factor tower will be fine. Most of our business sales are SFF towers and MicroPCs, the only time we get something larger is if we have to put a $700 graphics card in it. SFF towers will accept small graphics cards and can handle upgrades to the power supply; MicroPCs can only have the RAM and SSD upgraded and don't have room for any other components or their own internal power supply.

WARRANTY

Most desktops come with either a 1 or 3 year warranty; either of these is fine and if you want to upgrade a 1 year to a 3 year that is also fine. I've generally found that if something is going to do a warranty failure on desktop it's going to do it the first year, so you don't get a hell of a lot of added mileage out of an extended warranty but it doesn't hurt and sometimes pays off to do a 3-year.

Laptops are a different story. Laptops mostly come with a 1-year warranty and what I recommend everyone does for every laptop that will allow it is to upgrade that to the longest warranty you can get with added drop/damage protection. The most common question our customers have about laptops is if we can replace a screen and the answer is usually "yes, but it's going to be expensive." If you're purchasing a low-end laptop, the parts and labor for replacing a screen can easily cost more than half the price of a new laptop. HOWEVER, the way that most screens get broken is by getting dropped. So if you have a warranty with drop protection, you just send that sucker back to the factory and they fix it for you.

So, if it is at all possible, check if the manufacturer of a laptop you're looking at has a warranty option with drop protection. Then, within 30 days (though ideally on the first day you get it) of owning your laptop, go to the manufacturer site, register your serial number, and upgrade the warranty. If you can't afford a 3-year upgrade at once set a reminder for yourself to annually renew. But get that drop protection, especially if you are a college student or if you've got kids.

And never, ever put pens or pencils on your laptop keyboard. I've seen people ruin thousand dollar, brand-new laptops that they can't afford to fix because they closed the screen on a ten cent pencil. Keep liquids away from them too.

LIFESPAN

There's a reasonable chance that any computer you buy today will still be able to turn on and run a program or two in ten years. That does not mean that it is "functional."

At my office we estimate that the functional lifespan of desktops is 5-7 years and the functional lifespan of laptops is 3-5 years. Laptops get more wear and tear than desktops and desktops are easier to upgrade to keep them running. At 5 years for desktops and 3 years for laptops you should look at upgrading the RAM in the device and possibly consider replacing the SSD with a new (possibly larger) model, because SSDs and HDDs don't last forever.

COST

This means that you should think of your computers as an annual investment rather than as a one-time purchase. It is more worthwhile to pay $700 for a laptop that will work well for five years than it is to pay $300 for a laptop that will be outdated and slow in one year (which is what will happen if you get an 8th gen i3 with 8GB RAM). If you are going to get a $300 laptop try to get specs as close as possible to the minimums I've laid out here.

If you have to compromise on these specs, the one that is least fixable is the processor. If you get a laptop with an i3 processor you aren't going to be able to upgrade it even if you can add more RAM or a bigger SSD. If you have to get lower specs in order to afford the device put your money into the processor and make sure that the computer has available slots for upgrade and that neither the RAM nor the SSD is soldered to the motherboard. (one easy way to check this is to search "[computer model] RAM upgrade" on youtube and see if anyone has made a video showing what the inside of the laptop looks like and how much effort it takes to replace parts)

Computers are expensive right now. This is frustrating, because historically consumer computer prices have been on a downward trend but since 2020 that trend has been all over the place. Desktop computers are quite expensive at the moment (August 2023) and decent laptops are extremely variably priced.

If you are looking for a decent, upgradeable laptop that will last you a few years, here are a couple of options that you can purchase in August 2023 that have good prices for their specs:

14" Lenovo - $670 - 11th-gen i5, 16GB RAM, and 512GB SSD

15.6" HP - $540 - 11th-gen i5, 16GB RAM, and 256GB SSD

14" Dell - $710 - 12th-gen i5, 16GB RAM, and 256GB SSD

If you are looking for a decent, affordable desktop that will last you a few years, here are a couple of options that you can purchase in August 2023 that have good prices for their specs:

SFF HP - $620 - 10th-gen i5, 16GB RAM, 1TB SSD

SFF Lenovo - $560 - Ryzen 7 5000 series, 16GB RAM, 512GB SSD

Dell Tower - $800 - 10th-gen i7, 16GB RAM, 512GB SSD

If I were going to buy any of these I'd probably get the HP laptop or the Dell Tower. The HP Laptop is actually a really good price for what it is.

Anyway happy computering.

[strategiesblog640]

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Metal Gear Solid 3: Snake Eater is an action-adventure stealth video game directed by Hideo Kojima. Snake Eater was developed by Konami Computer Entertainment Japan and published by Konami for the PlayStation 2, and was released on November 17, 2004 in North America; December 16, 2004 in Japan; March 4, 2005 in Europe; and on March 17, 2005 in Australia. The game, which serves as a prequel to the entire Metal Gear series, was followed by four direct sequels titled Metal Gear Solid: Portable Ops, Metal Gear Solid: Peace Walker, Metal Gear Solid V: Ground Zeroes, and Metal Gear Solid V: The Phantom Pain.

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[tyronehugh]

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[ggmanreviews]

GGMan's Weekly Video Game Recommendation #11

I play a lot of games. Some, everyone has played. Others, not so much.

I'll be listing one game per week, that I have played and believe it deserves more attention. If you have already played it, then that's great! If you haven't, then you might as well.

Name: Viscera Cleanup Detail Genre: Science Fiction Simulation Developer: RuneStorm Publisher: RuneStorm Engine: Source Length: 40-65 hours Singleplayer? Yes. Multiplayer? Yes. Release Date: October 23rd, 2015 Platforms: PC & Classic Mac OS

Reviews: Steam 9/10, Keen Gamer 8/10, Humble Bundle 91%

Do you ever wonder what happens to the deceased after the dust had settled? During the World Wars, there was always a company of soldiers tasked with collecting the fallen on both sides; but that is real life - what happens if it's in a video game? For example, you have Doom Guy literally slaughtering every demon he comes across and he does make quite of a mess for the cleanup crew to work around. Well, if you never actually felt sorry for them, you won't have to because now you can pity yourself and your friends in this sci-fi cleanup simulator developed by a little known South African company known as RuneStorm.

Viscera Cleanup Detail is a relaxing time waster where you take after the lives of video game janitors who are tasked with picking up after our unknown hero who had just recently stopped an alien invasion. Instead of using guns and explosives to carve your way to becoming a legend, you own a mop and a pair of rubber gloves just trying to earn your next paycheck.

The concept behind this game is so simple yet entertaining, especially with a group of friends. You, alone. could venture into the eery jungles draped with wrangled bodies and decapitated Xenos and coincidentally ignite your inner OCD, or you could go into outer space with your friends and attempt to renovate the interior of a space station whilst tempted to experiment with its gravity controls. However, let be honest here, cleaning is probably going to be the last thing on anyone's mind. If you're like me, the first thing I'd try to do is fool around or annoy the crap out of my friends who are actually trying to play the game.

Viscera Cleanup Detail has helped me realize that I'd rather attempt to rehabilitate putrid sewers for 5 hours than my own room. That way I could actually feel productive for once in my life. I may be a student now but by playing this game, I feel like I have a vision of my future, if I don't do well.

PC System Req (Minimum) OS: Windows XP3 / Windows 7 Processor: 2.4GHz Dual-Core CPU Memory: 4GB Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GT / AMD Radeon HD 3870 Storage: 5GB

macOS System Req (Minimum) OS: OS X 10.8 - MacBook Pro 2013 Processor: 2.0GHz Intel i5 Dual-Core Memory: 4GB Graphics: Intel HD Graphics 5000 / Intel Iris Storage: 5GB

If your PC or macOS is equivalent or better than the above, then you're good to go!

Price (USD): $12.99 Current Price

[verdigrispoisoning]

I spent an hour last night trying to get my legally acquired, physical copy of a movie, on Blu-ray, to play on my Blu-ray drive. You would think it's as easy as popping in the disk, starting vlc, and watching the movie.

It was not. It only took an hour because I had previous knowledge of how this shit works.

You see, Blu-rays, any Blu-ray you buy, are encrypted. What your (not-PC) Blu-ray player does, is that it gets to read something called Volume Unique Keys, or VUKs, which are then used to progressively decrypt the movie as you're playing it.

PC solutions do not come with the ability to read those out automatically, generally. There are a couple programs that can (MakeMKV, DVDFab, ...) but in overall it's not really a thing. In fact, VLC does not even come with the ability to play most Blu-rays by default in the first place: for that you need decryption libraries for something called AACS (an update of how DVDs used to be/are encrypted - the one for DVDs is fully broken, the one for Blu-rays is not) as well as potentially BD+. And those VUKs I mentioned are separate from the libraries that use them.

So what can you do to play your actually 100% legally acquired movie that you paid for and have a receipt? You run a program called FindVUK. All that does is that it reads the memory state of another program to piece out those VUKs from the whole mess, put them in a convenient file, and sync it online. The programs that it reads this from incidentally offer the ability to just rip a copy of the movie onto your hard drive; that is their main function/selling point. This is legal because Europe has legislation that says that you're allowed to make private copies of your media, even if this breaks encryption (don't quote me on that, check your local laws if you think this might be relevant to you).

Note that this is not the movie itself. The data contained in that file, for this specific disk, is shorter than this paragraph.

But we're not done yet. Because guess what, your player also needs to get certified, and have a sufficiently up-to-date program on it to read the disks. What if your player is old though?

Simple: the program to read it is contained on the disk, and will just update your hardware once you put it in. But in order to do that it *still* needs a known key, one that is handed out specifically for that line of players, and can be revoked by that update. What if it's been decided that your PS3 or whatever isn't permitted to run Blu-rays anymore? Sucks to be you I guess. Buy a different player.

Or I could download it via piracy. Right now. For free. With subtitles that weren't even on the disk if it's a foreign movie, probably. And then I'd have it, free from any restrictions, until I decide to delete it or bit rot claims the file.

I want to support creators. I get that if I want more of a thing that's commercially produced, I have to support it with money; that's fine. But you're making me pay to have a worse experience here.

ADDENDUM: one of those online DRM solutions actually depends on specific circuits in newer Intel processors! SGX is the name I believe. So what happens if you want to watch a movie but have AMD? You're once again SOL. Or what about if Intel decides to retire that technology (like it does in its newest consumer CPU lines)? Take a wild guess.

People against piracy fail to realize that no, I can’t just ‘buy it.’ They stopped making DVDs and Blu-Rays. They’re barely offering digital copies for download. I am not spending money I could use for food or bills to pay for a subscription service just so I can always have access to a beloved piece of media. Especially not when the service will remove media on a whim without concern for how the loss of access to that piece will make its artistic conservation nigh impossible.

For example, I recently learned that Disney+ had an original film called Crater. It’s scifi, family friendly, and seems cool - I would love to buy it as a holiday gift for my little brother! But: it’s exclusive to D+ and THEY REMOVED IT LITERALLY MONTHS AFTER ITS RELEASE.

The ONLY way I can directly access this film is through piracy. The ONLY available ‘copies’ of this film are hosted on piracy websites. Disney will NEVER release it in theaters, or as something to buy, and it may NEVER return to the streaming service. It will be LOST because we aren’t allowed to purchase it for personal viewing. If I can’t pay to own it, I won’t pay for the privilege of losing it when corporate decides to put it in a vault.

So yes, I’m going to pirate and support piracy.

[castercasino967]

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How To Find The Right GAMING For the Specific Product(Service).

In the ‘90s, televisions got bigger, and gaming consoles got more effective. Nintendo and Sega fought for the best spot with the Super Nintendo Entertainment Method, and the Sega Genesis, respectively. You'll obtain all the retro games for SNES and Genesis you loved back in the day in a single handy spot. From Golden Axe to Mega Man X, all your favourite 16-bit titles are readily available at the Retro games shop.

Game makers can assistance easy leaderboards effortlessly by employing DynamoDB. One such use case is the capability to display major scores for a game. If a gaming enterprise already retailers players' game state in DynamoDB, like players' top scores, the ability to get top rated scores can be implemented by making use of a global secondary index.

The Tegra 4 SoC is a massive improvement more than other options in terms of efficiency and gaming technology capabilities. With Tegra four on NVIDIA SHIELD portable, you can now expertise higher finish graphical characteristics native in Android games like advanced genuine time lighting effects, depth of field, soft shadows, high res textures, true time smoke and particle simulation, higher polygon counts and significantly more. This allows developers to truly make freely for Android gamers.

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The journey to becoming a Guru is an thrilling roller coaster of social emotions. Individuals get extremely attached to their board games, and getting to the final stage of finding rid of games is not a step that everybody takes. What everybody can agree on, nevertheless, is that contemporary board gaming is entertaining, and a excellent excuse to get some friends collectively.

You initially convinced oneself that you would try one or two board games, but somehow you have ended up spending a lot of money on new board games and come to accept that board gaming is your new hobby. You commit your paychecks on frequent impulse board gaming buys and kick starters. You religiously watch your favourite youtube channel and you have decided to attempt and come across matching game players who have equivalent tastes for you to play games. You begin hunting for the ideal bargains on Amazon and you happen to be kick-beginning every single modern new board games coming out. Though the large signal that you are at this stage is that your secret birthday wishlist's for your mates now has board games on it.

Susan distinguishes herself as a gaming blogger for the reason that she emphasizes bringing positivity to the gaming sphere. As the Senior Editor for Escapist Magazine,” Susan also has an influence that some of the other gamers never have since she has the opportunity to encourage and influence some of the greatest up-and-coming minds of the gaming world.

[rosendahl19hill-blog]

Xbox 360 Red Ring Repair Guides

Have Create An Data Recovery Disk upgraded your PC to Windows 7 and cant run your whole old software you just would use in XP? Well, most of the computer users come across this problem after upgrading. But there is a solution for you, Windows 7s XP mode. System a free version of Windows XP professional that runs within your Windows 7 (Professional, Ultimate or Enterprise editions) desktop environment. For everybody who is using Home edition then you are usually not able to of the stunning feature. If are generally itching for running Windows XP mode into your Windows 7 environment, your needs fulfill several hardware requirements. Purchasers thing will be the fact the processors on the computer must have hardware virtualization technology. Content articles have Intel processor, you've to search out Intel Virtualization Technology under Supported Great features. For the AMD processor users, the Athlon 64, Athlon 64 X2 (Family F or G on socket AM2), Turion 64 X2, Opteron 2nd gen and 3rd gen, Phenom as well all one of the most processors have the capability of running Windows XP mode. In addition, your pc must give at least 2GB RAM to use Windows XP mode. Highrise is often a sweet, little CRM application made in the good people at 37 Signals. Highrise is super affordable, costing only $24 per month for 6 users or even more to $149 per month for unlimited users. I quite like Highrise because it's a simple contact manager that in concert with a ton of other hosted applications for customer service, sales and marketing and business efficiency. There's a programming interface to get more customization, and nice little iPhone app too. Plus I'm an important fan of 37 Signals' Basecamp software for managing projects which is very very similar to Highrise. The downsides? Highrise is at its heart just an e-mail manager and it is still in its early days compared onto a of other people products I discussed. It's a work happening. But I have faith in the who makes it. It helped that I had not seen much of Linux at all, with only really seen Knoppix and my sister had bought a netbook that ran Linux system. This let me see a good running of it and forced me much happier, even though her netbook was sensitive. However, that had look at with the computer and not Linux. Try to master as almost as much ast you can about individuals you in order to sell to. This helps shape using are in order to be say and the you will be going to go. When Apple first started, they meant to be exactly like IBM and Microsoft. They wanted become used for business situations. They were surprised when they gave rise to desktop publishing. Avail Easily Hard Drive Data Recovery Service In Your Area has embraced this development and learned to talk directly to their main market, particularly using Think Different campaign. Since I didnrrrt want to speculate money to get a newer computer, I am choosing to research inexpensive cooling options. My purchase: Microsoft's slick new Notebook Cooling Base in hot light red. Fix Olmapi32.Dll Error Error - The Right Way To Fix Olmapi32.Dll Error In Minutes downloaded some program that needs to be for removing Green AV along with forgotten along the restore facts. My computer was only somewhat okay for an estimated an time of day. I later did an entire system restore again, dolls only installing the necessary programs for virus protection and my work. Experience the wonderful programming tools that are part of Web step 2.0. Check back here for tips and tricks on using more Web secondly.0 tools in the coming week.

[specialability]

Extremely long life update:

tl;dr I bought myself a 2020 Asus ROG Zephyrus G14 from BestBuy and it was an awful experience but it's in the mail, also I really like mastodon a lot actually, and my cat got worms :| if you read or scroll to the end you get cat photos as a reward.

A couple weeks ago I decided to buy myself a new laptop as Black Friday sales were starting (even though I live in Canada where Thanksgiving happened a month ago) and my current MacBook Pro is from 2015 and showing its age. The battery menu just says "Service Recommended" on it now. I basically can't stream sports video without closing everything else that's open. That sort of thing. I got a bunch of money in Sept due to being approved for disability support so I can afford something low-medium nice so I start searching for "budget gaming laptops" and doing a probably excessive amount of research. Most review sites decide to consider things "budget" if they're less than $1000 but they're going by USD and let's just say a $900 USD laptop goes for more like $1400 CAD if it's even stocked. So finding something that's actually under CAD$1000 involves a lot of manually checking multiple sites because of all the different possible configurations. I am repeatedly reminded of why I previously bought only Macs.

My criteria ended up being: under CAD$1000, AMD processor (because they play better with Linux), discrete graphics card, removable/upgradable RAM, upgradable SSD, not hideous, not extremely heavy or large, in stock.

I settle on two main options: Lenovo Ideapad 3 Gaming or Asus TUF A15, both of which were going for about $999 and were relatively well-reviewed but emphasis was made on the fact that they were heavy and battery wasn't great. Also the TUF is hideous. I'm not a student any more so I don't really need to worry about all-day battery life, but I also don't want something that basically needs to sit on a desk all the time plugged in to be used. Because I don't have a desk and there isn't room for a desk in my apartment. Which is why I'm buying a laptop instead of a desktop in the first place.

Anyway, I kept going back and forth because I wasn't really happy enough with either of them to justify the price, the configuration of the Ideapad that I wanted went out of stock so only a more expensive version was available, I had a bit of a meltdown on twitter where I started totally second-guessing myself and maybe I should just buy a shitty $300 refurb laptop?? Like what am I doing I don't need to game on a laptop, I've spent all these years not being able to play PC games and I still don't own any consoles other than the switch. Am I being too greedy??

And then it was like 4am and I was on the BestBuy site and they must have updated their sales at midnight because the Asus ROG Zephyrus G14 showed up. (insert holy choir singing hallelujah) It actually matches all my criteria aside from being 14", which is a bit small but I can live with it. It has excellent reviews, better than the other two. It's actually small and light enough to be portable and and has a much bigger battery than the other two somehow?? AND it's on sale for $899 so great, I put in the order.

Nothing happens. No shipping notification or anything. Until two days later I wake up to the order being cancelled. No email even to tell me why. So I open up the chat and they say it's a security issue, the billing address you put in wasn't matched by the bank so the charge was refused. This makes no sense because I paid with paypal which has had all my info in it for ages and has always worked before. I google and there are people complaining about this on reddit so sure, fine, I'll redo the order and make double sure the address is correct. I pay directly without paypal. Next day, wake up, order is cancelled again. This time I call them. They can't override the system, but what the person says is I can physically go into the store and ask them to put in the order through their system and then I just pay at the store and therefore it won't be checked in the same way by the system. This is because I want the open box price that is $100 lower. If I was willing to pay the extra $100 for the non-open box version I could have just physically gone to the store in the first place, a week ago when I started all this. But fine. FINE. I want to buy this stupid laptop. It better be absolutely flawless when I get it because seriously. The only other place that has it in stock it is $350 more and is a newer version so I can't even just say fuck BB and go somewhere else and ask for a price match.

So after navigating the local transit situation which is totally off its normal route due to construction and then walking enough to give myself a blister I make it to the stupid BB store. First of all it's nearly impossible to find a sales person. Then she tries to pressure-sell me into getting the $999 version and then keeps insisting that I also need to buy the extended warranty. I almost buckle because I am into negative spoons but am saved by the fact that my credit card is, again, declined.

So I walk off and call my stupid bank, thinking they've cut me off for fraud because I've tried to buy this laptop so many times. Nope, says the person on the phone, you just hit your credit limit because the previous purchases are still sitting there pending and haven't cancelled yet. Once again I want to strangle whoever is in charge of BB's checkout system. I actually have a totally different credit card, but it's at home. Am I going to go all the way home and back again? Am I going to go home and try to order it online with the other credit card and run into the same problem?? Absolutely not. But the bank phone person actually ups my limit while I'm on the line with them, which is amazing, and gives me just enough space to buy the stupid laptop. I am seriously at the point where I'm doubting all my life choices and do I even want a new laptop my old one still functions what am I doing wasting money like this etc.

So I go back to the desk and the previous sales person is gone, thank god, so I explain what happened to the person who's there and they're, shockingly, like "sure we can def do that". So they log into their shit and we go through putting in my info and making sure they order the exact right one and then I pay for it (with no pressure sell of the warranty this time) and it goes through! I would be more excited if I wasn't so exhausted.

aside: it is so unseasonably cold out I can't believe it. it is never this cold around here, I never have to get my full winter coat out in November let alone there being snow and ice on the ground. climate change!! what are you doing!! we can't have incredibly hot summers and incredibly cold winters!!

aside2: the reason why I didn't want the warranty is that aside from it being like $25/month, more than my actual renters insurance, is based on my reading of it there is no coverage of accidental water damage. which is the no.1 reason why I might need repair. Anything else that's going to fail will either fail in the first year and be covered by the manufacturer or I'll deal with it myself. I'm not a pro repair person I don't even own a soldering iron but I can follow ifixit instructions. In my impatience for this laptop to arrive I have actually already looked up the instructions for upgrading/repairing various parts to make sure it's possible, because most cheaper laptops these days solder the RAM to the motherboard and therefore aren't upgradable in the future.

back to the main story: Being a depressed cynical person I am not jumping with excitement yet. The next day I wake up and... there's a shipping notice!!! They have printed the shipping label!! I have never actually achieved this stage of the purchase process before!!!!!!

It is now the weekend so the only progress that gets made is that the package is scanned in at the nearest warehouse. So the laptop exists. Or a box that a laptop should be in exists. It might arrive Mon or maybe Tues. I will believe it when I receive it intact and turn it on and it works. The only plus side of the trip to the BB is that I got to look at it and try out the keyboard and touchpad. The screen is indeed a bit small but now that I (my roommate) owns a TV that is less of a real issue. I am going to wipe and reinstall Windows 11 to start with and then dual boot it with Pop OS.

I am, at this point, both looking forward to and dreading getting used to using a non-Mac computer for the first time in ages. I've used WinPCs for work in the past, but never as my main daily use machine and after 10+ years of using various MacOSes I have such a deeply-ingrained workflow that it's going to take some getting used to. I learned to program in Unix! I know all the ways in which MacOS tends to break! I have already researched different desktop environments that might be more similar to Mac and made sure that my most often-used software has either a Linux version or an equivalent I can migrate to.

And of course the twitter meltdown is happening so I checked out all the different social media offerings that people were talking about and since a few of my techie / librarian friends moved to mastodon I put a little more effort into learning it than the other ones. In terms of their philosophy of decentralization and consent I am behind the software 100% but if of course depends on how it's implemented.

So I'm invested in finding one or more mastodon servers to live on in the future as a replacement or adjunct to twitter but already I prefer the interface and functions to twitter by a lot. For one thing, twitter hamstrung 3rd party clients a long time ago so the one I've been using for like 5 years is very clunky and laggy, but the tusky mastodon client looks pretty much the same and is incredibly snappy. I find myself much more motivated to use it and let it crosspost to twitter than use twitter and crosspost in the other direction. Even if I still mess up on most of the tweets I send and have to go back and fix the permissions or CW.

I have already moved one of my accounts to a different server from the first one I signed up to and have a second account going on a newbie fandom server. I haven't found my ideal server yet but I am looking at the more anarchist-oriented ones.

another aside, do I qualify for an ADHD diagnosis yet?: I understand the ass-covering required by saying 'no illegal stuff' but lol I am not a totally law-abiding person and am not going to totally censor myself on that, the DMCA can go fuck itself, scihub and libgen are great, and yes I occasionally shoplift from the pharmacy.

If I had the money I would probably just start my own, it sounds easier to install than Arch Linux and, if nothing else, I have a lot of free time. I wrote a really long screed on why I think mastodon (and the fediverse more widely) is better for fandom than twitter ever was but then deleted it because my knowledge changed just within the 24hrs since I wrote it. Anyway, I like it a lot, it has a nice vibe so far, I suspect that a lot of people will quit after this initial rush but that's fine. It's much less frantic than discord but allows for more frequent smaller posts unlike tumblr, so it's good for my kind of diary-style posting. Basically the main reason why I'm writing this post is because I haven't been able to write it out in bits and pieces properly because of all the twitter/mastodon migration.

With all this going on, I also had my cat show signs of being infested with tapeworms (ew) so I had to suddenly get him to the vet. The vet agreed with me and gave me some meds for him so hopefully that is dealt with. I haven't bought pokemon yet because I don't even want to play it, I just want to deal with one thing at a time... or preferably zero things for a while... It is hard to keep up with fandom when I am not even showering every day because I am so tired.

cat photo time: the fat one is the one with worms, but it's not the reason why he's fat (probably) the other one is my roommate's and he's a real gremlin

[lascltrax]

Mac mini ram upgrade yourself

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Do You Need To Run The XCode Simulator on the M1? And if you intend to max out this machine 24/7 and still be running it in several years, I think that’s a valid concern.įor most developers and most people, I think you could easily get by with the 8GB model. There are people out there who are worried that swapping to your hard drive over and over could wear down your SSD. There are probably very few use cases where that would ever happen. The SSD Read speeds are so fast that you won’t notice a big performance drop unless you’re going WAY over the 8GB of RAM like in the Photoshop example above. But, I think unless you’re some type of power user, 8GB will be sufficient for you. Personally, I’ll be forking over the extra $200 to get the 16GB model. the 8GB model while using tons of common apps. This guy went through and meticulously compared the performance of the 16GB model vs. If you’re curious too, I highly suggest you check out the YouTube video below from Max Tech. So I was very curious how much the 8GB model would slow down development. I rarely get my Mac up to 16GB of used RAM, but 8GB is pretty easy to surpass if you’re a developer with multiple tabs open. I know from my Hackintosh experience that a Mac can quickly get up over 8GB of RAM when running the XCode simulators. Was 8GB enough RAM to run the simulator without experiencing significant performance issues? This was the big question I had when I pulled the trigger and got the base M1 2020 Macbook Air. Is 8GB of RAM Enough For XCode on the M1 Mac Mini, Macbook Air, and Macbook Pro? But, other than needing a beast of a machine the M1 Macs have the advantage. The best reason I can think of is Apple still gouges you if you want a 2TB hard drive. I can no longer think of a great reason to build one over the M1 Mac Mini, or M1 Macbook Air. The Hackintosh is officially dead (not just because you can’t buy Apple Silicon processors). It blows my Hackintosh out of the water, and the base model is cost-competitive with my 2018 Hackintosh at only $700. My first thought was, “Can it compete with my Hackintosh.” And yes, not only can it compete, The M1 Mac Mini has a multi-core GeekBench 5 score of 7386. However, in 2020, Apple released a new M1 Mac Mini for only $700. This machine is powerful it has been fantastic for XCode development. I built a machine that was twice as powerful as the top of the line 2018 Mac Mini, for $200 less than the base model. This Hackintosh had 16GB of RAM, a 512GB SSD, and an Intel Core i7 processor with a multi-core GeekBench 5 score of 5300. I was annoyed by that price/performance ratio, so I decided to build a Hackintosh. This was the 2018 Mac Mini, which cost $800, and a multi-core GeekBench 5 score of 3203. I figured I’d buy the cheapest Mac Apple offered.

#MAC MINI RAM UPGRADE YOURSELF SOFTWARE#

I’m a software engineer, and in 2018 I wanted to try my hand at XCode development. OK Apple, I’m listening.īut, can it run XCode quickly? The M1 Chip is Very Powerful, Perfect For Developers Looking to Run XCode These are entry-level Mac products that price/performance wise are actually semi-competitive with Windows machines at the same price-point.

#MAC MINI RAM UPGRADE YOURSELF PC#

You typically pay 3x for a Mac what you’d pay for a PC with the exact same hardware.Įnter the M1 Mac Mini, Macbook Air, and Macbook Pro. Then they have the audacity to charge the Apple tax. My main gripe with Apple is that every Mac they release has a processor that’s about a generation behind. Check out this post if you’re looking for how Apple’s M1 Max chip performs vs the latest from Intel and AMD.

#MAC MINI RAM UPGRADE YOURSELF PRO#

Note: I wrote this post in late 2020 prior to the M1 Max Macbook Pro getting released.

[backwards-pumpkin-blog]

Best Motherboard for Z270 Processor in 2018!

This past year was crazy with fresh processor launches from AMD and Intel. Intel got things began with a refresh of its on-going Skylake architecture, codenamed Kaby Lake, which brought faster clockspeeds and some brand-new facilities to the prevailing LGA1151 system. AMD countered using its Ryzen processors and the AM4 good, and Intel released its enthusiast Skylake-X/Kaby Lake-X parts with LGA2066 and AMD countered with Threadripper and socket TR4. With the new cpus, it could be difficult to learn how motherboards will be the best for every platform. Intel's new seventh Gen Espresso lake processor chips has gone out now, even though these types of people utilize the same LGA1151 tooth socket as Kaby Lake, of the processors need brand-new 300-series chipsets. But if you are thinking of create a new mainstream system with an Intel processor chip, where in fact the Core i7-7700K and Core i5-7600K remain respectable options at reasonable prices, you'll want to begin which includes a Z270 motherboard. The start features, style, and performance from Z97 to Z270 has been useful and dramatic to enthusiasts of most stripes, awry outstripping CPU advancements as Haswell. Many Z270 motherboards support multiple x4 Pci-e Gen3 M. 2 slot machine games, enough PCIe lanes dual-GPU configurations, changeable or subtle color schemes, Realtek’s new ALC1220 sound codec is commonplace, and as well , there are always a sponsor of refinements for overclocking. Mounts for 3D-imprinted add-ons are even beginning to appear. In the mean time, legacy ports are beginning to disappear. USB 2 . zero headers and back-panel fittings are receiving swapped for a few. 0 and 3. you counterparts. SATA interface counts are receiving shaved to free of charge space and assets for M. 2 and as well , U. 2 storage space. Every one of the boards right here feature at minimum a couple of M. 2 slot machines, and each is full- velocity, 32 Gb/s implementations. The times of SATA could be using (at least if indeed they will get prices on M. 8 SSDs right down to more sensible levels). The Z270 chipset (and other 200-series parts) take a position backwards appropriate for 6th Style Skylake CPUs, and 100-series chipsets may also use 7th Gen Kaby Lake processors. Nevertheless, Z270 provides four extra PCIe lanes, which explains why wish seeing even more M. a pair of slot machine games this round, and you will also want a 200-series chipset if you would like to make use of Intel's Optimus Storage engineering, technological innovation. While most motherboards will continue to work to tell the truth, enthusiasts will need more than the bottom level of efficiency and features often. After considerable research and testing, these are the very best Z270 motherboards.

ASUS Maximus IX Hero Review

The mid-range Maximus Hero IX reflected its name during testing, dealing with motherboards costing almost as very much and frequently pulling forward on performance or features twice, which makes it best overall elect for Z270.

Gunmetal grey heatsink designs and relatively restrained styling clothe this in any other case hardcore gaming item in upscale attire. Go home away the Aura light and you might presume a fresh workstation table. This unbiased color scheme is effective at extravagant rig builders as well; start the lights just, match your colours, and you’re all set, regardless of what neon-colored parts or court cases in store.

Hardware hobbyists will see plenty to experiment with also. Subtly included along the upper correct and simply lower plank edges happen to be control keys for power, program reboot, storage reset, and so BIOS access, which are nice additions when tinkering within a workbench. Extensive and well-placed lover headers are supported by features such a circulation tachometer for drinking water soothing loops and ASUS’s complex BIOS lover control.

In addition, all of this attention takes care of in addition to the best multiplier and mémoire figures among the boards examined right here. The Hero IX handled a stress- free of charge 5. 1 GHz and so pushed two-stick memory space styles beyond their rated 3600 MHz capacity. Further, post-benchmark BCLK testing elevated who to nearly 5. 2ghz without incident before the warmth became one factor. None of the various other boards right here came repair, with the Hero upstaging ASUS’s own even, more costly Formula IX.

ASUS ROG STRIX Z270I Review

Micro motherboards happen to be back business again because of the success of Intel’s NUC route and the evolution of on the internet streaming, with ITX large systems enjoying an upgraded relevance for DIY masters. These smaller sized boards offer features that significantly outstrip likewise priced ATX boards frequently, simply perfect for spending budget building workers who do not brain ltd expansion options later on.

ASUS’s new Strix items include things like basic level for the Republic of Gamers lineup, however the Z270I feels mainly because fine simply because the Maximus motherboards near the top of the stack. Posting the same dark grey, blown steel heatsinks and heavy PCB as the big chat rooms, it feels as though a discount at list price.

Like the majority of ITX boards, an B. 2 slot lives on all flipside within an inaccessible region after initial set up just ASUS includes another slit at the top of the Strix, concealed underneath what appears like that chipset shield in little channel that accommodates get sticks up to 80mm long.

Aura lighting helps it be onboard as well, with a type of LEDs beneath the motherboard's right part and an RGB header for exterior lighting pieces. Wi-Fi is usually provided via 2T2R Atheros wireless at approximately half gigabit speed, and the hardware handles Bluetooth 4. 1 works. New ALC 1220A CODEC can be used for sound realtek’s, backed with ASUS’s SupremeFX tweaks and a great up to date software program layer; advantageous additions because so many ITX platforms are destined for living space media use.

Shortcomings will be inevitable in that tiny bundle, and the Strix includes a couple of. While earlier ROG ITX boards from ASUS got no trouble reaching storage and simply multiplier limitations with Haswell and Skylake, the Z270i Strix struggled to attain 5GHz via multiplier and could not support 3600MHz DDR4 CORDIAL NIP.

As the true numbers were much better than MSI’s Z270I Gaming Pro Carbon ITX, there’s still area for improvement, specifically equipped with ASRock’s Fatality Z270 GAMING-ITX/AC offering extras like integrated Thunderbolt 3. In the event that's a gift you wish, ASRock's which provide is usually a close second.

MSI Z270 Tomahawk Review

While lots to like about Z270 there’s, additional dollars necessary for buy-in certainly are a drawback. Component producers have not been shy about walking prices for the previous few chipet generations, although the strike certainly is not as large as it had been from Z97 to Z170. An instant diagnostic at Newegg yields an absolute price basement around $105 for an entry-level Z270 board.MSI’s Tomahawk cable retails only a few dollars above this price flooring but provides a credible middle group of features and construction non-etheless. The dark teal and red colorization scheme uses crimson backlighting, an assessed design on the PCB, and simply an integral I/O shroud from illuminated logo design. The total result is handsome, of course, if potential element color choices clashes be concerned you, there’s an arctic white edition available that appears better and can match any style in store even.Don’t expect top-shelf storage CPU or functionality speeds with this spending budget board, however. The multiplier check came up brief at 4. 9 GHz and memory space was limited by 3200MHz. Benchmark figures reflected regarding, but didn’t affect considered video gaming performance too much. Exotic parts like pre-binned 5GHz CPUs and high-speed DDR4 aren’t usually on the menu with budget builds anyway.Rear We /O entails 8 USB ports, integrating 1 type C and so five type A UNIVERSAL SERIES BUS 3. 1 connectors. Ethernet, is dealt with via Intel’s low-latency V219 controller.One particular drawback well worth mentioning may be the aging Realtek ALC 892 sound codec. While flawlessly sufficient for standard duties, almost all of the additional boards right here sport the brand new ALC 1220, which includes around eight years of developments. Fortunately, MSI’s codec execution is a great a person, which means this isn’t an offer breaker, but if leading edge disturbance is component of your strategy, look elsewhere.For ultra-budget builds, MSI’s H270 Tomahawk variants provide practically identical looks and similar performance at even lower prices, although just forget about overclocking or memory space data above 2133.

[purpleskunkape-blog]

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Adventures in PC Building

An abridged mirror of this post is available on PCPartPicker.

So I built a new PC recently, and frankly, it was about time. After living my entire life with pre-built PCs that my parents chose, hearing stories of people around me building PCs and me doing a lot of stuff on laptops because they were faster than my desktop, I felt that it was time for me to build a new PC with specs that I chose for myself.

The main purpose of the build was a general-purpose/daily driver build focused on gaming, but could also work as an all-rounder for programming and video editing if need be. It took months of research and finding the right opportunity to buy parts, but in November 2021, I finally decided to bite the bullet and buy my parts. My budget was $2000, which was expanded to $2500 ($2000 for the case and everything in it plus $500 for the monitor and keyboard) given rising GPU prices.

For 12 years, I’ve been working on a Windows 7 system with a 2.8 GHz AMD Athlon II X2 240 (I think) with 4GB of RAM and a 500GB hard drive. It’s been my main driver for much of my work, including my rants and my personal project, but over the years I’ve experienced issues while using it under loads; the computer takes a while to start up, I’ve experienced lagging in games like TF2 and the computer would suddenly shut off without warning if the CPU overheated or the system encountered a bug or something, which would happen when I’m working on something intensive, like rendering videos. In regards to rendering videos, I’ve rendered slideshows in 1080p on Windows Live Movie Maker in the past and it was fine; even earlier versions of Cyberlink Power Director worked fine, but as time went on, the problems started to show up. It’s part of the reason why I had to start rendering my video memes in 720p (when I went through that phase) and eventually quit out of a loss of interest and also because it wasn’t profitable, to put it vaguely. But hey, at least it was still adequate enough for me to browse the internet and play games on PPSSPP (PSP emulator).

I’ve also worked on a couple of laptops for quite a bit of time; one was an Acer TravelMate B113 with an Intel Core i5-3337U that I’ve had for over eight years now and has seen me through the later half of high school and all of uni and another was an Asus UM462D with an AMD Ryzen 5 3500U that I upgraded to after the second lockdown because my mum wanted my old laptop to watch videos on. To be honest, nearly a year after I bought it, I had to send it in for repairs because the fan noise started becoming unbearable, but when I got it back, I had to send it in again because the microphone stopped working. After getting it back for the second time, the fan noise became less unbearable, but given how it would happen now and again, I thought that it would be better to not use it so much so as to not put stress on the fan, hence my increasing urgency to buy the parts for this build.

Here is my parts list with my comments on why I chose those parts. All parts were bought from PCCaseGear because I didn’t want to deal with different stores to get the absolute lowest prices:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor (Purchased For $449.00) I was going to go for the 8-core Ryzen 7 5800X, given how I had a laptop with a Ryzen 5 3500U (that had 4 cores despite me thinking it had 6), but I went with the 5600X because I’d heard people saying that there wasn’t much performance difference in 1080p gaming and I don’t really do a lot of specialised things like video editing or streaming. Plus, there was a $180 difference when I bought it (it’s down to $110 now), so it wasn’t worth it to go for 8 cores. I didn’t go for an iGPU such as the 5600G or 5700G because I wanted to experience what having a GPU was like, plus the benchmarks on them aren’t as good compared to the 5600X given how they’re still using Vega graphics.

CPU Cooler: Deepcool Gammaxx 400 EX CPU Cooler (Purchased For $59.00) As obvious, I took people’s advice of not using the stock cooler that came with my CPU. I was going to go with the ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO given how it went up to 2100 RPM, but since it was sold out when I decided to buy the parts, I suppose 1500 RPM is good enough.

Motherboard: Gigabyte B550M AORUS PRO-P Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (Purchased For $209.00) I was going to go with an X570 motherboard, but like with the CPU, I went with a B550 because I’m not doing a lot of specialised things or using the PCIe 4.0 chipset lanes. Also, the IO shield on the back was a lot different to what I was used to, so that was interesting to see. I was also going to go with a Gigabyte B550 Aorus Pro V2 because I wanted to experience having an ATX motherboard; although it was $10 cheaper, I would have to sacrifice two USB ports on the back. In the end, I stuck with my microATX motherboard because I realised that a computer would pretty much be the same regardless of the motherboard. I didn’t need onboard Wi-Fi because my router is literally on top of my computer; if the need arises I could always get a Wi-Fi/Bluetooth dongle.

Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory (Purchased For $139.00) The timings for this memory are 16-19-19-39. I was also going to go for 32GB of RAM, but again, not doing a lot of specialised things, so 16GB was fine, which proved adequate enough during use.

Storage: Samsung 980 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (Purchased For $99.00) NVMe drive, just as the experts recommended. It’s a PCIe 3.0 drive because I learnt that there is no difference in performance with PCIe 4.0 drives. I would have picked the WD Blue SN550 for $20 less, but ever since they did the NAND bait-and-switch, I thought better of it. It took 4 minutes to install Windows 10 via USB and it only takes up 26 GB (out of 465 GB). I use this drive mostly for the OS and software.

Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $55.00) Ordinary SATA drive. This was the only CMR drive they had as bigger capacity drives are SMR. I also picked this because it wasn’t Seagate - ironically, my old PC’s hard drive was a Seagate and it hasn’t failed me in 12 years, but who knows when it might fail, given how I’ve had issues with a hard drive in an older laptop before it essentially died. I migrated all my data, including photos, music, videos and game ROMs from my old PC to this drive. I also use this drive to sync files to and from two laptops. I also have an external drive that I’m using for backups, but I can buy a bigger external drive to make way for files if need be.

Video Card: PowerColor Radeon RX 6600 XT 8 GB Fighter Video Card (Purchased For $799.00) When I first made my parts list on PCPartPicker, I picked an RX 580 GPU for $749, but when I shared it on the forums, I was recommended better GPUs because of the performance value. What a good thing that my research has led me to buying a better video card despite fluctuating prices. A couple of weeks after I bought the card, the price went up to $869. I chose an AMD GPU over an Nvidia GPU in case I wanted to run Linux someday and well, I saw what Linus Torvalds had to say about them. I also steered away from RX 6600 cards because of performance value reasons upon seeing reviews of them. After seeing the RX 6500 XT reviews, yeah, I guess I dodged an even bigger bullet there as well.

Case: Cooler Master MasterBox E501L Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $69.00) The case has no windows - due to the way my setup is placed, there would be no point in me having RGB as there was nothing to see, so I endeavoured to steer away from RGB parts while doing research. Plus, I hear that motherboard makers have shitty RGB software, but I can’t really vouch for it. Fun fact - I installed Gigabyte’s RGB Fusion for a bit and it took a while to uninstall because the process wasn’t terminated when I exited it.

Power Supply: Super Flower Leadex III Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $149.00) Pretty much the cheapest fully modular power supply I could buy. I left a bit of leverage in terms of wattage in case I wanted to upgrade even though I know I’m not going to upgrade again for like ten years, but who knows?

Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24D5MT DVD/CD Writer (Purchased For $29.00) Of course I needed a DVD drive just because. I had planned on reusing my old drive, but my family apparently wants to put the old PC to use in future and the case plate is long gone, so I thought it was better to buy a new one. This drive sounds noisier than my old one when I’m using it, but I suppose it’s a good compromise seeing as I don’t use it that much. I would buy an external drive but then I’d have to figure out where to put it when I’m not using it and I’m haphazardly storing USB drives and other peripherals as it is.

Case Fan: Cooler Master SickleFlow 62 CFM 120 mm Fan (Purchased For $12.00) Bought two of these for the case since I thought it was cool to have good airflow going for it. I’ve got the airflow in a push-pull configuration.

Monitor: AOC 24G2E5 23.8" 1920x1080 75 Hz Monitor (Purchased For $249.00) My old monitor was 20" and I managed to fit this bigger monitor in even though I was barely fitting everything as it was with my speakers on the table. I wanted a monitor with HDMI and DisplayPort connectiors so that I could connect two computers (or my Raspberry Pi or other device) to it; while it only came with an HDMI cable, I discovered that there were two HDMI connectors so it was adequate enough. The stand on this takes up less space than the circular stand on my old monitor, so I could fit cables and stuff in front of it. Another thing I like was that it had a line out port at the back, so I wouldn’t need to change the audio jack between computers thanks to the HDMI cables as the output would change automatically upon changing inputs.

Keyboard: Ducky One 2 Skyline Mechanical Keyboard Cherry Red (Purchased For $119.00) Ideally, my keyboard would have Cherry MX switches, per-key programmable RGB LEDs and Bluetooth/multi-device capabilities, but given how (affordable) keyboards with this specific combination seem to be scarce, I had to make compromises, particularly given that this is my first mechanical keyboard. I mean, it’s not like I’m going to be paying attention to what keys are lighted on my keyboard when I’m playing games so I know what keys to press, right? Plus, if I had LEDs on my keyboard, I’d prefer them to shine through all the engraved text on the keycap and not just the main text. The blue LEDs for the Num Lock lights et al. can be a bit piercing to the eyes, but the height of the keys reduces the problem. A small problem is that you can’t really tell if Caps Lock is on or not, though I suppose you can just tell when you’re typing. Linear and tactile switches seemed to feel the same to me during the little time I spent physically shopping around, so after struggling for a bit, I eventually went with the Cherry MX Red switches and the experience isn’t really any different compared to any other keyboard. The keyboard has a removable USB-C port, but since the port is quite far in under the keyboard, I decided to buy a short extender as I plan to use it on different devices while also putting a spare USB-C to C cable to use (with a USB-C to A adapter). I did originally consider a Cooler Master keyboard, with the SK653 being something that matched my requirements, but I didn’t want my first mechanical keyboard to have low-profile switches, plus I’m not a fan of what I call “hypocritical keycaps”, which is where the numbers in the number row are placed above the symbols that you would need to hold the Shift key down to access while the other symbol keys are arranged normally. This keyboard has the numbers and symbols side-by-side, which is starting to become a bit of a trend with keyboard manufacturers these days.

Total: $2448.00

Not listed are my mouse and speakers as I had already bought them beforehand for different things. My mouse is a Logitech M585 that cost $55 at Harvey Norman in 2019 - it was originally meant for my mum to use on her laptop, but when I got a work laptop and had to start working from home, I swapped it for the wired mouse from my old PC and I have to say, I’m glad I picked it initially as the ability to switch between the Unifying receiver and Bluetooth on two devices really came in handy. My speakers are a Logitech Z337 that I bought after the second lockdown in 2020 at Harvey Norman for $149 after the power button on my old Logitech R-20 stopped working (I had to hold it in with a toothpick for a few years for god’s sake). I kind of regretted this because I mainly bought it for the Bluetooth functionality and I discovered that the subwoofer wouldn’t fit on my table at first, plus I probably didn’t need a subwoofer as there were other speakers with Bluetooth functionality that didn’t have a subwoofer, it just meant that I would have to sacrifice having a subwoofer. But regardless, it still has its uses.

I got a Windows 10 Home retail key for $20 from an online reseller, which was definitely cheaper than buying the key with my PC parts which would have cost $159.

The build works quite well, though there are still a few kinks that will hopefully be ironed out in time. The computer used to shut off while multitasking under load, but a BIOS update seemed to solve it. There would be times where the monitor wouldn’t show anything (or the Num Lock light wouldn’t come on the keyboard) when I turned on the computer, which would result in me having to clear the CMOS in order to get it on. It happens a bit less now, though there would be times where the computer wouldn’t turn on properly from sleep mode or hibernation, which would result in me having to do a force restart.

In regards to games, Dynasty Warriors 8 Xtreme Legends Complete Legends and Empires will get stuck on a black screen unless Play Movie is turned off, while Warriors Orochi Z will just crash upon loading because there just isn’t any option to select movie quality like the former two games. Apparently, it might have something to do with FFDShow conflicting with the DirectShow API, but I tried installing the codec to fiddle with it and it didn’t help. In regards to Warriors Orochi Z, Event Viewer shows that there is a “memory access violation” with that game, so I don’t know why this is happening on my desktop given that my laptop can run that game properly. Since Koei Tecmo has shown no intention of fixing this problem, if anyone can find a solution for this I would be happy to hear it, otherwise I can live without this game on the desktop, which is a bit disappointing as the purpose of me doing this build was to move my gaming from a laptop to a desktop.

Although I did leave some wiggle room for upgrades, I honestly don’t see myself doing any upgrades in 5 years, let alone 10. Getting a new drive for storage is easy, whether internal or external, but AMD’s Zen 4 processors will be using the new AM5 socket that will require a new motherboard and I also don’t see myself upgrading to Zen 3D either.

Here are the detail fields mirrored from PCPartPicker (note: values may vary):

Date Built: 28/11/2021

CPU Clock Rate: 3.7 GHz

CPU Temp While Idle: 35°C

CPU Temp Under Load: 70°C

GPU Core Clock: 2266 MHz

GPU Effective Memory Clock: 9064 MHz

GPU Temp While Idle: 40°C

GPU Temp Under Load: 70°C

This has been a breakdown of my new build. Feel free to let me know what you think.

Enjoy some more photos of the build as well (they would be up the top in the PCPartPicker post).

Exclusive to the Tumblr post, here are some photos of my old PC for comparison.

Also exclusive to the Tumblr post, here’s a photo of me trying out the new monitor and keyboard with my laptop before I started working on the motherboard and the case. Shown in the photo is a Fifi and the Flowertots music video I made and posted on Facebook; I’d put on a screenshot of me playing Dynasty Warriors 8 Empires but I had stuff to do, plus this was just intended as a proof of concept.

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Age of Empires IV on PC is a strategy game that belongs to the strategy saga that is famed. You will be able to get involved in conflicts with armies owning their particular traits. Empires will rise, history will be made — this is actually the motto of the epic game. Playing with this strategy game will provide you the experience it has been giving since years by the time of its sequels. Each time it provides the impression that you are fighting to your empire.

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When talking about strategy games Age of Empires II has to be one of the most played of all time. It was first released in 1997 and it has been growing ever since. There are over ten different titles, but all of them have something in common: you are in command of a civilization and you are responsible for making it thrive and conquer. The storylines are based on history and cover almost 10,000 years starting from the Stone Age.

The second installment of this game (The Age of Empires II: The Age of Kings) comes with new maps and other added features. You can choose between playing on your own (against the computer) or be joining in a multiplayer experience that will let you test your skills as a leader of any of the civilizations included in the game, 13 in total. This version covers a historic period that goes from the fall of the Roman Empire up to the Middle Ages.

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Great multiplayer experience.

Advanced Features

Be one with history, choose one of the campaigns that are based on historical characters and walk in the shoes of the likes of Genghis Khan or William Wallace.

There are many ways to play and win the game; there is even a pacifist option. You don’t have to exterminate anyone to win; you just need to complete a wonder before everyone else does.

The HD version of the game includes options that are Steam specific like access to features from the workshop or matchmaking.

System Requirements

For the PC version of the game you’re required to have the following:

Windows XP or later.

At least 1GB of available RAM.

DirectX 9.0

2GB of available hard disk space for the install.

A processor with speed 1.2 GHz or higher.

Pricing

As with almost everything else in life, the price depends on the vendor. The PC version of Age of Empire II: The Age of Kings sells for USD 24.99. You can also get the gold edition of the game (also for PC) for USD 33.99.

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Pros

It’s a great real-time strategy game. You will find yourself learning the particulars of every civilization to use it in your favor.

There isn’t just one way to play or win it, you can find different alternatives depending on the civilization you’re playing with and the style of play that you choose.

With the release of the HD version, which was released for Steam, you can take advantage of some features as matchmaking.

Cons Download adobe illustrator cs4 mac os x.

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When you compare it to more recently released games, you’ll find that the graphics look really dated.

Verdict

As it happens with games that have been around for so long and that have such a massive fan base, this is one of the cult games around. A leader on its category and also among games in general, this might not be the most recent version (Age of Empires III was also released) but you can still find people developing modes for this one. The fact that the mere announcement that a “remastered” version would be released raises so much interest should give you an idea of how popular this game really is.

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Granted, it doesn’t have the best graphics around, especially considering how far we’ve come in that respect in recent years. Also, there have been complaints about bugs in the first releases, but if you can get passed all of that you will find that this is a very enjoyable and entertaining game that will provide hours of fun while wiping out entire civilizations on the way.

An appealing feature that was included in this release was being able to take on the persona of a historic character. Wouldn’t you like to lead your troops as William Wallace? That is just one of the options that you get. Also in this version the more diplomatic pacifist gameplay; you can win by using your engineering abilities and finishing a wonder before everyone else instead of just vanishing them from the face of the Earth. You can even use your trading capabilities to win games, so it’s not only about pure military power; there are different nuances that will make every playing session different from the one before.

As we mentioned above, a new version of this game is on the works. This is the kind of things that happen when you have a product that even years after its original release maintains its following. Now you have a choice, if you have never played before, you can either get started with the original version or wait for the new one and find out what Microsoft will do to give this beloved game a refreshed look. This move will sure make it current again and we will have Age of Empires II for years to come.

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[dramallamadingdang]

Hi there, I’m pretty impressed that you create and use a lot of high res textures and I was wondering whether you had run into pink flashing stuff because some people including me have been complaining about it since we play UC on Windows 10. I also use a Nvidia graphics card and Leefish said that the game doesn’t go well with these cards so if you don’t have any of these pink flashing issues, what graphic card do you use? Your advice might be helpful if I ever need to buy a new gaming computer.

I've privately answered these kinds of questions a number of times now; I hope you don't mind me publicly answering your questions so that, if I get more similar questions in the future, I can just point to this post. :)

Before I cut for length, I'll say that no, I have never experienced pink flashing, ever. That said, I am VERY conscious of what I put in my game, and I make content/playing sacrifices/compromises in order to have higher-res textures (within reason) without having, so far, such issues. I'll go into more detail about that and my machine and stuff behind the cut.

Also, I am a loyal NVIDIA customer after having had multiple issues (not related to Sims but to 3D rendering in architectural CAD) with AMD cards. I have never had issues with TS2+NVIDIA. This could, however, be due to the fact that I deliberately use older drivers and do not allow the drivers to automatically update.

So now, here's that cut...

My approach to this game, whether we're talking about computer hardware or content for the game, is that it's a game that was originally coded in 2004, meant for the sort of machine that most people had at that time. It makes sense to me that, from a hardware angle, a machine that's as 2004-like as possible would be the optimal choice for playing TS2, specifically. That being said, aside from occasional non-serious poking at TS3, TS2 is the ONLY game I play, so I am entirely unconcerned about my Simming machine being able to play other/newer games. This machine is "optimized" for playing TS2, making TS2 content (using Photoshop CS6 for the graphics editing), and dinking around on the internet to download stuff and interact with the community. That is literally all I do on it. I have other machines to do other things on.

Anyway, my Simming machine. It's a desktop because I'm not fond of laptops in general but especially so when it comes to playing games. It's an older HP machine that I bought as a refurb from Newegg about a year ago, for ~$120, including tax and shipping. It came loaded with 64-bit Windows 7 Pro (I won't touch newer OSs with a 99.5-foot pole), 4GB of RAM, had integrated graphics, and has a 3.0GHz Core2Duo processor, the latter of which is fast(ish) but its architecture is as close to "2004" as I could get in a "stock" machine. I then maxed out its RAM to 8GB and upgraded to a dedicated video card, in this case an NVIDIA GTX750 Ti with 2GB of DDR3 RAM (I think...or maybe it's DDR5; I can't remember), which was as powerful as I could get without also having to upgrade the machine's stock 375W power supply...which might be difficult/impossible to do because it has an HP-proprietary one. As I said, I installed the driver that came with the card and do not allow updates. (Once, I did allow an update and it FUBAR'ed the graphics in my TS3 game, although TS2 was fine. I'm not risking it, though. I rolled back to the old driver, which works, and that's what I'm keeping forever.) I did the CFF Explorer thing so that the game uses 4GB of RAM rather than 2 and used the Graphics Rules Maker to force the game to use all of my video card's texture memory. The latter, I think, is very important for avoiding pink flashing, Win10/UC bullshit aside.

Speaking of UC bullshit, my game is all installed from disks. I have all EPs/SPs installed, and I keep the CC to ~5-7GB. (It fluctuates. :) ) I neither have nor want the UC because I want zero, zip, zilch, nada chance of EA being able to "update" my TS2 game for me because any update would probably upset the apple cart and I would be very, very pissed. :) For my "backup," I have a pirated complete collection of the game, about which I have zero guilt because I've bought the full game on disk many times over now and, also, EA itself now gives away the game for free. I tested the pirated version so that I know it works if I should need it in the future if something happens to my disks, but my installed game is from legit disks.

Now we come to content, and here's where things get "personal." As I said, I make sacrifices/compromises to prioritize being able to use high-res textures on objects and walls/floors in my game because that's what I, personally, like. The primary sacrifice is that I am VERY choosy about what I download, particularly when it comes to hair and new objects with custom meshes. I do not download things mindlessly, and everything I download is checked for poly count and texture size(s) before I decide whether or not it goes into my game. In particular:

I am rigorous about poly counts/texture sizes for hair in my game because aside from things like high-res terrains/skies/horizons/neighborhood deco, they are the biggest drain on texture memory in my game. I allow myself only a certain number of high-poly (which I define as "more than 10K polys") hairs. In terms of helping with pink flashing, I have also been experimenting with using smaller texture images for hairs. (512x512 instead of the 1024x1024 that most of them seem to be. That's 1/4 the size/texture memory usage.) So far, in those hairs that I've messed with, I am not noticing much in the way of loss of quality in normal gameplay. Anyway, my rule is that, if I want to download a new high-poly hair, I have to delete one I already have. I don't think polys contribute to pink flashing, BUT they definitely contribute to general video card strain. AND, high-poly hairs tend to have large textures as well, so...double whammy.

For build/buy objects I tend to stick mostly with Maxis meshes and add-ons that people have made for them and older objects that were made for TS2, not those converted from newer games. This is primarily because such objects are low-poly with low-res textures. I can improve how they look with better and/or higher-res textures, but they remain low-poly. I also avoid useless, non-functional clutter (Exception: Plants :) ) because such things are often high-poly and do nothing. I would rather do this that have a bunch of high-poly AND high-res custom meshes in addition to higher-res textures for the Maxis objects. This means I have fewer choices when it comes to furnishing/decorating, but I am entirely willing to make that sacrifice for the sake of prettier/clearer/sharper textures in general.

The other thing I am conscious of is what I use in my general playing. For instance, I like using high-res terrains and (very) high-res skies and horizons and such. I like to take pretty scenery pics and use them as computer desktop wallpaper, for instance. BUT, I will often remove skies and/or horizons when I'm just casually playing a neighborhood that I don't take pics of. Those things eat a LOT of texture memory, and running out of texture memory is what causes the pink flashing. If I remove such things from neighborhoods when I'm "just playing," I can pretty much go wild with most other things. Or, if I want to leave in skies/horizons because I am, for instance, taking outdoor gameplay pics, I will often turn off neighbors in game so that only the lot I am currently playing (plus any visible-from-the-lot neighborhood deco, but that can be turned off, too, if you want to be really conservative) renders. Lot imposters do not. This reduces texture memory load as I play.

So, basically, it's all a balancing act. If I want pretties in one area, I have to settle for less-pretty in other areas, and I'm willing to do that settling. It's an old game, not meant to be high-poly/high-res, so if you want to force it to be high-poly/high-res in certain ways, you have to be willing to make such compromises because the game's age/limitations (regardless of the shininess of your computer hardware) are such that you really CAN'T have it all. I realize that the exact things I do in my playing won't suit everyone's playing/building/decorating style, but I'm pretty sure that anyone can make similar kinds of compromises in order to make prettier the things that are of primary importance to them.