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The Jewellery Biz Was Once A Boys’ Club — These Women-Led Brands Helped Change That

Charles Lewis Tiffany. Frédéric Boucheron. Louis-François Cartier. Most of the jewellery world’s famous design houses were founded by men — historically, metal-smithing was considered a man's job. And the diamond industry continues to be notoriously male-dominated. But the that's all changing. Many of today's most exciting, fashionable pieces are from women-led brands — an unsurprising development considering that more women buying bling for ourselves than ever before. Even better, many of these talented designers are shaking things up by offering fine jewellery for everyday, as well as locally produced and environmentally friendly options. In other words, these are baubles you can feel great about buying. Just in time for International Women’s Day, here are 12 women-run jewellery companies from around the world that we’re obsessed with right now. At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

Wolf Circus

Wolf Circus’ demi-fine, modern jewellery is created in Vancouver by an all-women team. Designs are either hand-fabricated or made with the lost-wax casting technique, which involves molten metal and a detailed mould. The brand is sustainably minded, using only recycled sterling silver or recycled bronze that’s plated in 14k gold. Fiona Morrison, the founder and creative director of Wolf Circus, started the line as a student at the University of Victoria in 2010 and was recently awarded a Design Entrepreneur Award by the Fashion Institute of Technology. Morrison also runs a fine jewellery line called Ok Fine, which uses recycled 14k gold. Wolf Circus Femme Ring in Gold, $, available at Wolf Circus

BY ALONA

Each piece from Alona Shelemy’s jewelry and accessories collection is made in London, no small feat for a line with designs priced from just £50. Consisting of gold-plated metal jewellery, BY ALONA includes intricate designs featuring charming motifs such as coins and seashells, inspired by Mediterranean "lost treasures." Currently 10% of the proceeds from every sale is donated to charities focused on ocean conservation. By Alona Malvasia Choker, $, available at By Alona

Maria Black

Scandinavian fashion is having a global moment, and one of the buzzy names to know is Maria Black. The Copenhagen-born, Danish-Irish designer’s inclusive, genderless, demi-fine jewellery line is available worldwide and includes fashion, fine, and piercing-focused designs. (The company has four piercing studios across Europe.) Her bestsellers include everything from rainbow-hued huggie earrings to chain necklaces and delicate ear cuffs. The brand’s signature pieces are intended to be fashionable and individually expressive — this is statement jewellery that still feels personal and can be styled in multiple ways. The prices are wallet-friendly, too, starting at just £36 for selected sterling silver. Maria Black Baroque Twirl Earring, $, available at Maria Black

JENNY BIRD

What do Ashley Graham, Kendall Jenner, and Selena Gomez have in common? They're all fans of award-winning Canadian designer Jenny Bird. Well-priced, designed in Toronto, and made in Qingdao, China, JENNY BIRD jewellery ranges from gold- and sterling silver-dipped brass rings to her Rarebird 14k gold and diamond earrings. Known for its geometric pieces, the brand also introduced a more fluid-looking, highly covetable Studio Collection last year, inspired in part by natural shapes and Bird's young son’s Play-Doh. Jenny Bird Catalina Earrings, $, available at Jenny Bird

Maria Tash

On this year's Oscars red carpet, Maria Tash’s pretty earrings were sported by nominees Cynthia Erivo and Florence Pugh. The internationally renowned New York–based designer, known for her fine jewellery and piercings line, is a proponent of the curated ear and has worked with celebs like Rihanna and Jennifer Lawrence. Starting with custom navel jewellery at her East Village studio in 1993, the Maria Tash brand has grown over the years to include necklaces, charms, and finger rings alongside traditional lobe earrings and designs for cartilage and body piercings. Delicate and intricate, each piece is meant to sit on the body in a specific way. Maria Tash 6.1mm Cubic Zirconia Dhara Clicker, $, available at Maria Tash

Mejuri

Mejuri launched as a direct-to-consumer business in 2015; since then, the Toronto-based startup has gained over 700K Instagram followers, received millions in venture-capital funding, and revolutionised the industry with its original approach to fine jewellery. Third-generation jeweller Noura Sakkijha, co-founder and CEO of Mejuri, recognised that there was a need in the market for more affordable, fine pieces that could be worn every day. The company’s messaging that women should buy jewellery for themselves — instead of waiting for someone else to gift it to them — has definitely resonated in the international marketplace, and we love that some of their solid-gold pieces are priced for as little as $65 (£49.66). Mejuri Tarot Sun Bracelet, $, available at Mejuri

Sophie Buhai

Fun fact: Before launching her eponymous line in 2015, Sophie Buhai was co-creative director of the New York-based cool-girl label Vena Cava. Her own jewellery brand’s luxurious, sculptural designs — inspired by art and the world of interiors — are handmade, often to order, in Los Angeles using sterling silver that’s either recycled or responsibly sourced. Minimalist, bold, and often with substantial heft, Buhai’s distinctive designs are intended as modern heirlooms, and are priced as such. These are the timeless pieces worth investing a little more on, because (hopefully) they will become a part of your signature look, and you’ll want to wear them forever. Sophie Buhai Classic Cowbell Earrings, $, available at Sophie Buhai

YUUN

Each collection from Canadian fashion jewellery line YUUN has a distinctive aesthetic: The “Bloom” capsule features delicate floral elements reworked from vintage '80s jewellery wax forms, gorgeous baroque pearls form the basis of the “Surfacing” collection, and the striking “Harmonics” range features modular and mismatched geometric shapes made with jasper stones and sterling silver. What they all have in common is plenty of personality; plus, each elegant piece is handmade by the brand’s Montreal-based designer, Lina Hu. YUUN Kepler Drop Earrings, $, available at YUUN

MYEL

On the lookout for a unique engagement ring you can feel good about? MYEL’s delicate pieces are produced by talented goldsmiths in Montreal and made with ethically sourced precious gemstones (such as upcycled and lab-grown diamonds), Brazilian emeralds, and sapphires from Australia and Montana. The company, a member of the Ethical Metalsmiths association, is also committed to socially and environmentally responsible manufacturing. In addition to engagement and wedding rings, MYEL also offers relatively affordable fine jewelry for men and women, and a selection of designs that can be personalized with semi-precious stones and engravings of your choice. MYEL Pom-pom Hoops, $, available at MYEL

Jennifer Fisher

New York–based Jennifer Fisher is best known for her oversized jewellery and sometimes quirky, see-it-to-believe it designs (example: a cuff bracelet shaped like scissors), which are regularly worn by A-Listers like Jennifer Lopez, Hailey Bieber, and Selena Gomez. Launched in 2015, the line has recently expanded to include more delicate fine jewellery and wedding bands, and Fisher even launched a furniture collab with CB2 in February. Jennifer Fisher Samira Huggies, $, available at Jennifer Fisher

Fay Andrada

Filipino-Finnish designer Fay Andrada launched her minimalist, curve-loving jewellery line in NYC almost a decade ago (her studio is now based in Greenpoint, Brooklyn). Carried at leading global retailers including 10 Corso Como, Bird, and Harvey Nichols, the polished-, brushed-, and painted-metal and gold pieces in her collection resemble modern-art sculptures as much as jewellery. Whether you’re looking for an oversized, hand-hammered cuff or delicate 14k gold earring, Andrada’s chic designs are not to be missed. Fay Andrada Lasso Cuff, $, available at Fay Andrada

Wolf & Moon

Looking for eco-friendly, ethically-produced jewellery that’s still fun to wear? Check out British designer and creative director Hannah Davis’ Wolf & Moon line. Stocked in over 200 stores worldwide, the brand’s eye-catching, geometric, slightly kitschy designs are handmade in North London. Wolf & Moon is also sustainable, using materials such as FSC-certified (responsibly harvested) wood and recycled acrylic. The Wolf & Moon line ranges from delicate “everyday essentials” to oversized, confident statement jewellery, brooches, and hair accessories. It’s a must-know label if you love colour, texture, and playful design. Wolf & Moon Peony Brooch, $, available at Wolf & Moon

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