#bio coco peat

[clearmakermoon]

COCO HUSK CHIP BALES 4.5KG

Coconut husks are sliced into required sizes to obtain coco chips. They have become an important, natural, economical growing medium. They have replaced fir bark in organic agriculture.

https://www.ceyloncocopeat.com/product.php?name=Coco-Husk-Chip-Bales-4.5kg

[ceratosaurtalks]

While I'm working on my Honduran Milks bioactive, I did wanna take the time to talk about Links Bioactive. Link is my overweight[He's working on it! <3] Male Emergency re-home Ball Python. I typically avoid this species, but he's been a fantastic little Unicorn for me. So lets talk about Link's enclosure and how it works! Link is in a 4ft x 2ft x 2ft PVC Enclosure- this is the *minimum* size this species requires to thrive. His substrate is made up of a layer of perlite sitting at the bottom of his enclosure, this layer of perlite acts as a drainage layer. This drainage layer, which catches excess water that seeps through the substrate. It also helps with catching potentially bad bacteria, and helps with your plants roots! The rest of the substrate sitting ontop of that layer of perlite is a mix of Ecogro organic topsoil, Coco fiber, and Sphagnum moss. I cannot stress this enough, but if you choose to do a bio-active enclosure PLEASE be sure to choose a organic substrate!! Fertilized substrate can be toxic to your animal, this includes manure-based fertilizers. To promote healthy growth, I choose to use Coco fiber and Sphagnum Moss. The Coco fibe[Coco peat] Is a safer way to promote healthy soil for both your plant, and your animals, while the Sphagnum Moss is fantastic at holding water and Nutrients for your plants. The arguably biggest and most important part of this enclosure is the cleanup crew. Your cleanup crew will break down decaying plant matter and your animals feces and return it to the soil, as well as cleaning bacteria growth. Bio-actives cannot function in the long-run without a cleanup crew. The cleanup crew I chose consist of Dairy Cow isopods[Porcellio laevis], and Temperate Springtails[Collembola sp.]. You can Mix-and match your Isopods and Springtails as long as its a species that can tolerate the humidity and temps your animal requires, HOWEVER! Its important to note your Isopod species. I chose not to mix Isopods in this enclosure as Dairy cows are kinda known for being aggressive. For plants, ball Pythons are incredibly Bulldozery animals and will trample much of your flora. Needing hardy plants that could survive being trampled and occasionally uprooted was a must for him, and after thought and research, I ended up settling on these: Golden Pothos, Snake plants, and Jade Pothos. Some just overall incredibly hardy plants that, since having them, I've found fantastic success with surviving Links night-time pathing and assaults. I also have a Philodendron [Monstera adansonii,] in there, providing cover and clutter around and over his hot hide. I'm proud of this plant surviving so far, to say I added it with a specific reason would be a goddamn lie lmao I just loved how cool it looked. The fact it's survived and adapted for as long as it has is a miracle in of itself, and I wish great health amongst this trooper of a plant. I deep water once a week to keep my plants healthy and the soil moist enough for my isopods to thrive, with occasional spraying staggered through the week. Overall, this is how Links Bioactive tank is settup! Is this the only way to set up a Bioactive tank? Certainly not! There's plenty of ways you can setup a Bioactive. Does your animal absolutely NEED a bioactive enclosure? For a lot of animals that answers going to be no! It doesn't. Bio-active vs Non-bio-actives have their pros and cons that, maybe Ill ramble about in a later post. And probably talk on what a Bioactive even is and go into much more detail than I did here about how it works. But I chose Bioactive personally because the long-term upkeep is less costly and labor-inducing, and I just love the looks of them. AndICanHaveAsManyGoddamnIsopodsAsIWant<3

[enigmaticpink]

Hello!! Im not sure if youve made a fallow up post or if this is now irrelevant to you and your blog now or anything but I was scrolling around the rat care tag and saw your post about cages and LOVED it!! Ive always had a deep love for rat and finally im in a space to get some of my own and I was so interested and excited by bio-active enclosures that you mentioned! Do you have any advice or resources about them or more to say about them??

Omg I love that!! Rats really are amazing pets to have, I still into rat husbandry myself

I have to preface this with all my knowledge on bioactive setups is that based on research I've done, and I've done a lot of research but I haven't yet made the switch to bioactive myself but I hope to soon. If you want advice from people who've already gone through the process, the naturalistic and bioactive rat setup group on Facebook is an amazing source of info and advice.

So from my understanding of it, it's best to do with a large cage like a critter nation, with either a custom acrylic base or with one of those home Depot cement mixing tubs in the base. Other large cages may be available that will also work, depending on your location, but this is from the perspective of someone based in the US.

The substrate is usually comprised of a mix of something like coco fiber and top soil, but ofc make sure the top soil is pesticide free and pest free. You want to have a good balance of moisture in the substrate, enough that it's not dry and irritating their respiratory systems, and not too wet to where mold will develop. Turning the substrate over every few days or so, or when you spot clean is really good for preventing mold. Also that brings me to a CUC, you need a CUC for it to be bioactive in the first place. Some clean up crews will actually eat mold, and keep that in check as well. I see people mainly recommend springtails for rats, and also pill bugs, but I hear rats will eat pill bugs, or really any critters over a certain size. Another reason why springtails are good choice, they're mostly small enough to go unbothered by the rats.

You'll need to keep a colony of your cuc of choice and may have to add more to the setup every so often. A large part of a bioactive enclosure is balance, balance between the amount of rats you have and the amount of waste they're outputting, the amount of CUC you have, the amount of soil to coco fiber, amount of moisture.

I hear it can take some trial and error to get it right, and often it won't be 100% bioactive, you will probably still need to spot clean. There is some debate on if you need to change the soil out with a bioactive enclosure, some saying if it's a good enough setup it shouldn't need to be changed and others saying it needs to be changed every six months to a year. I personally don't have the experience to say, but at the very least it's much less upkeep once you getting it going than say changing wood bedding every two weeks, but it can be very expensive to first start up.

Other than that, how often you reconstitute moisture into the substrate will depend on the time of year, your climate and local humidity. People often add other things to the substrate mixture, like peat moss to help the soil retain shape and moisture so your rats can dig and tunnel.

I hope this was helpful!! Again there are groups and pages with people who have hand on experience with this that are also very great resources

[kavitha13]

Explore Chennai's Best Coir Pots Wholesale Suppliers - Bio-Degradable Planting Options

Discover the advantages of coir pots from Chennai's top wholesale suppliers. Made from outer husk fibers of coconuts, these pots offer a range of benefits for gardeners and plants, ensuring sustainable and environmentally friendly gardening solutions.

[coconutoil-vco]

Coir Brick Supplier in Sierra Leone

Coir Brick Supplier in Sierra Leone

Coir Brick Supplier in Sierra Leone .  The largest coconut producer in the world is Indonesia. The largest Indonesian country in Southeast Asia can build 18.3 million tons of coconuts each year, and the number is increasing year by year. Although the amount of coconut produced in many areas in Indonesia is enormously large, not all of them are used to create or be processed into processed coconut…

[abonoindustries]

Abono Biotech Industries grow with the principle of enhancing the natural farming methods and to maintain the quality of soil and crops. We are notable Bio fertilizers, Roof framing & Organic products supplier and Manufacturers. We are engaged in manufacturing, supplying, wholesaling and exporting quality assured range our products.  

The cause and effect of chemical fertilizers are so serious, and that is when we came to the market to enrich the modern farming methods with #Bio-fertilizers such as #VermiZakan, #Coco peat powder and #Bovine manure. 

Visit :- https://abonobiotech.in/

[scandi-fish]

Vampire crab care sheet!

Alright fellas, I’ve researched these crabs SO MUCH, and have been keeping them successfully for a while now, so I feel confident in writing a care sheet for you all. But before we begin, there’s the usual disclaimer to do your own research before purchasing any crabs, and that I in particular only have experience with Geosesarma hagen (also known as the Red Devil crab), so care may be different for other species. NOW LET’S GO!

(image source)

Latin name: Geosesarma sp. (this care sheet is focused on hagen, but care is pretty much the same for all species)

Size: 2.5 cm in shell width is maximum for the commonly kept species. My male is only about 1.5 cm in shell width. So very smol.

Indigenous region: Geosesarma hagen lives wild on Java in Indonesia. Vampire crabs in general are found throughout most of the tropical regions in Asia, and Hawaii.

Indigenous environment: Vampire crabs spend their days hiding in the mud and various foliage you find besides creeks in the tropical regions of Asia. Here they hunt and eat tiny bugs, insects, and whatever else they can get their tiny claws on.

Set up: The best vampire crab set up is one that as close as possible resemble their natural environment, while also checking of the various boxes a vampire crab needs to be healthy. The most important aspects in having happy and healthy vampire crabs, are having a moist environment, a water source, and lots of hiding places. To keep their environment moist, an aquarium or glass (non wire-top) terrarium is the best. They do fine when kept at room temperature, but you may need a heating source, like a small UTH, if you’re planning on keeping the crabs in a cool area of your home. They can survive relatively low temperatures, but become less active and their metabolism slows the lower the temperature, which can be fatal over a longer period of time.

Enclosure size: A good starting point for a vampire crab enclosure is at least 5 gallons worth of floor space per 2 crabs in the enclosure, but more space is always better. That means that you can have at most, 2 crabs in a 5 gallon, 4 in a 10 gallon, 8 in a 20 gallon, and so on. If your tank is a long model, you can add one or two extra crabs per 5 gallons over 20 gallons. So a 20 gallon long tank can hold 9-10 crabs. But remember to design your tank, so that there is a place for each crab to hide, without having to share with the others.

Substrate: I recommend coco mulch as a substrate, as it’s great at holding in moisture (like sphagnum moss/peat) but is a realistically renewable ressource (unlike sphagnum moss/peat). 80-90% of your enclosure should be substrate, and your substrate should be pretty wet.

Water source: 10-20% of your enclosure should consist of at least one water source. Several smaller water sources are fine, the water just has to be deep enough for the crabs to completely submerge themselves. The easiest way to do this is to add a bowl or box into your substrate and fill it with water. I’ve used a Tupperware box. Make sure that the crabs can get in and out of your water source, I’ve done this by adding branches that connect my substrate and the bottom of the pool. You don’t generally need a filter, as crabs in a moist enough enclosure only really use the water source when they are stressed or before/after moulting. I just change out the water once a week. Be careful when you change it though, as both grown up and potential baby crabs like to hide in the water! Besides the water source, regular manual misting (about once a day) is recommended. Either that, or an automatic mister. Probably not needed if you keep the enclosure somewhere really moist.

Hiding places: As vampire crabs are very smol, you can imagine that many animals prey on them, they therefore need lots of hiding spots to feel secure from predators, and from other crabs when they are moulting. The best and easiest way to create hiding spots for your crabs is by copying from their natural environment. What do you usually find besides creeks? Leaf litter, various moisture loving plants, old branches and bark pieces, rocks and moss all help in creating lovely little nooks and crannies that the crabs can hide in. And a lot of the stuff can be bought cheaply at a plant nursery (miniature peace lilies, orchids, ferns and bromeliads are examples of plants you can find most places. Beware that some of these will outgrow your tank), and the rest of the stuff can be harvested from pieces of nature that you trust to be pesticide free. I’ve collected moss from my backyard lawn, and went to a nearby forest to collect small pieces of bark and branches for my crabs. You don’t need to disinfect the stuff you collect, just make sure there aren’t any venomous or poisonous creatures that might hurt your crabs. Small creatures like wood lice and ants are fine - the crabs will probably just eat them. Besides the natural elements, you can use whatever hides you would use in other aquariums or terrariums. For example, I have a mini dragon skull, and a coconut hide, found in the aquarium part of a pet store.

Gender ratio: Male vampire crabs are territorial, and can fight. They very rarely fight to the death, but they can be so stressed from fighting that they die. I therefore recommend more females than males, if you have the maximum amount of crabs for your tank size, so that males can get breaks from territory fights. If you’re keeping two crabs in a 5 gallon, they should either be two females, or one male and one female.

Sexual dimorphism: Male vampire crabs are more colourful than the females, and have bigger claws. They also tend to be slightly bigger when fully grown. It can be really difficult to tell if the crabs aren’t fully grown, as young crabs all look like females.

(Not G. hagen, but you get the idea)

Diet: Vampire crabs are opportunistic carnivores, and a big part of their diet in the wild consist of small bugs and insects that they catch. When live prey is unavailable, they scavenge and eat whatever they can find, including dead animals and algae. In captivity they can therefore be fed what you would feed a fish with the same eating habits. I feed my crabs with a varied diet of crushed high quality Betta pellets, frozen and thawed food like blood worms and cyclops, and flightless fruit flies once I get a colony going. I’ve tried with a small plate for their food, but they didn’t use it, so I just spread their food nearby them, and they find it. If you are keeping a bio active enclosure, you can take a bit of your CUC (like springtails or small isopods) and feed your crabs with them once in a while. They will love it. I also have a little lump of Java moss in their pool, so they can eat the algae from that if they want. They do once in a while!

Behaviour: Vampire crabs are more active at dawn and dusk, so a regular light cycle is needed, with either a timed light or natural light is needed. They are little fxckers that can stay out of view for so long (I’m talking weeks) that you are sure that they are dead, but then suddenly there they are! So don’t panic if you haven’t seen them for a while. One way they like to hide is to dig little caves into the substrate, which is why it’s important to have some open substrate for them to dig through.

(I’ll edit this later so it’s better, but for now I just want it out of my drafts lol)

[adorable-home-garden]

Jeba Garden Premium Cocopeat Powder Best Soil Manure for Potting Mix Soil Manure (1 kg, Powder)

Link:- https://bit.ly/3pTbBUk

Enrich The Soils In Your Garden With Coco Peat Brick Powder from MYOWNGARDEN . If Gardening Is A Hobby Of Yours And You Spend A Lot Of Time Tending To Your Plants, Then This Brick Is a Must-Have, Cocopeat primarily consists of the coir fiber pith or coir dust which is obtained by processing coconut husk & fibers. The cocopeat which is obtained can hold large quantities of water & nutrients just like a sponge. It is used as a replacement for traditional peat in soil mixtures or as a soil-less substrate for plant cultivation. It is free of bacteria and most fungal spores, and is sustainably produced without the environmental damage caused by peat mining. It is added so that the container retains more moisture for the plants and it reduces the weight on your balcony/terrace. Has the ability to store and release nutrient to plants for extended periods of time. It also has great oxygenation properties which is important for healthy root development. it looks like a solid brick and powder. Used for garden soil, potting mix. cocopeat for gardening Also used as soil manure, bio manure, organic soil, and soilless farming Beautify your landscaping, gardening, indoor plants and kitchen garden Coco peat is a natural fibre made out of coconut husks. Coco peat is a multipurpose growing medium, that is very easy to use.Low EC coco peat is best for growing all types of hydroponic crops. Many growers find it to be a perfect growing medium.

[net4news]

Bengaluru institute on a mission to improve turmeric cultivation through soil-less agriculture

Soil-less agriculture could be the solution to increasing the yield and quality of turmeric cultivation in India, says this Bengaluru-based expert

For CV Prakash — a former naval officer who is also recognised as an expert in soil-less agriculture — making turmeric (Curcuma longa) more profitable for the ordinary farmer has become a passion during lockdown. His ongoing Mission Turmeric 2021 aims to begin an “orange revolution”, he says, by teaching people to cultivate the spice in grow bags (large porous containers made of high density polyethelene) packed with coco-peat (made from the pith of the coconut husk) instead of soil, in shade houses. Introduced to soil-less agriculture after he migrated to Australia in 2000, Prakash brought his interest back to his homeland in 2008. He has trained over 10,000 people in cultivating different crops using hydroponics and other soil-free alternatives at his CV Hydro training centre, which functions under the auspices of Aggragannya Skills, Bengaluru. With the lockdown bringing things to a standstill last year, and being unable to travel to Australia as usual, Prakash finally had the time to research the cultivation of turmeric. “My friend had sent around eight kilograms of seed rhizomes of Tiger Claw Salem variety turmeric (grown in Erode) last February. I planted 60 grams of seed each in 100 grow bags, substituting coco-peat for soil. The results were amazing,” says Prakash.

Encouraging results

Analysis of the crop in its sixth month by the Eurofins Lab, known for its work in bio-analytical testing, showed a curcumin content of 5.91% — nearly double of what it would be in a nine-month growing cycle. “Normally Salem turmeric does not give more than 3% curcumin content, so this was an eye-opener,” says Prakash. Curcumin is a bright yellow phenolic compound that has been in the news for its potential to fight cancer. As a result, the demand from pharmaceutical companies for high curcumin turmeric has risen to 58% of the global market share in recent years, according to research cited by the Trade Promotion Council of India. . The increased yield was another breakthrough. “In the sixth month when we harvested the crop prematurely, we got 4.45 kilograms of turmeric from one single grow bag. At the end of the seventh month, we had 6.44 kilograms, and in the final harvest, we got 8.17 kilograms of turmeric from a single plant,” says Prakash. As a bonus, no traces of heavy metals were found, making the crop a saleable product from the get-go. “Erode farmers usually get 500-600 grams of turmeric per plant in conventional farming. Our method gives a bigger yield, and its high curcumin rate makes it a valuable cash crop for farmers,” says Prakash. “When you grow turmeric on a field, in a harvest of around seven tonnes, at least four tonnes are wasted due to poor quality or pestilence. In our method, not even a milligram of turmeric went bad. This has got to do with many factors, because soil-less agriculture is a very deep science. But I’m still not happy; the yield can definitely be 10-11 kilograms per grow bag,” says Prakash. A spicy curative - Turmeric is a staple of the Indian kitchen shelf. - This perennial herbaceous plant of the ginger family (Zingiberaceae) has many uses in South Asia, in both fresh and powdered form. - When it is not lending its nutty aroma to food as a spice, turmeric (also known as haldi or manjal) is a skincare ingredient and a key additive in traditional medicines for a diverse range of ailments. - During COVID-19 pandemic, its reputation as a panacea has gained credence, especially since turmeric-infused milk was recently listed as an immunity boosting food by the Indian Government. - India is the world’s biggest producer of turmeric, (centred in the states of Telangana, Maharashtra, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, Arunachal Pradesh and Orissa ). At least 30 varieties of cultivars are grown in the country. - Approximately one million metric tonnes of turmeric was produced in 2020, with COVID-19 and unseasonable rains hitting the export market and pushing up prices locally.

Orange mission

Launched in January 2021, Mission Turmeric 2021 currently has a growing area of 1,28,000 square feet. Around 15 pilot projects featuring eight varieties of turmeric are underway in stretches of 500 and 1,000 square feet growing areas, while three ventures based on one acre each, are looking at commercial cultivation. “We have trained 18 people in Mission Turmeric 2021 through webinars, and have started a ‘watch and learn’ programme for people who could not make it to this year’s growing season (which began in May). I will be mentoring the applicants, besides sharing video lesson on all aspects, from pre-seeding to harvest,” says Prakash. Growers from different parts of India who are part of the project have to observe and report parameters like leaf length and width, stem diameter and height of the plant daily to Prakash. “All the monitoring is done by pure observation. I am a very conservative farmer; I believe you cannot remove the human from the equation in agriculture,” says Prakash. To encourage farmers, CV Hydro has been offering to buy back the turmeric, with rates ranging from ₹18 per kilogram of finger wet rhizomes up to ₹100 per kilogram for dry polished mother rhizomes.

CV Prakash has been researching the soil-less cultivation of turmeric at his training centre in Bengaluru.   | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement; CV Hydro “If the cost of production is ₹12 per kilogram, and the wet turmeric finger rhizome is sold at ₹20, then the gross profit is ₹8 per kilogram in India. But international pricing of this miracle plant ranges from ₹500 to ₹5,000 per kilogram. The farmers can really earn well if they cultivate turmeric through soil-less agriculture,” says Prakash. Chennai resident R Srinivasan, who got interested in soil-less cultivation after trips to the US, attended a two-day course at CV Hydro to learn the technique. He has been using the method to grow tomatoes, cucumber and other greens for the past three years. “Soil-less agriculture helps the grower to maintain a healthy root zone. The full potential of the plant can be achieved with careful monitoring because it is easier to manage diseases during the cultivation,” he says. Niharika Deora of Mumbai decided to try soil-less agriculture after college studies and trained under Prakash. “I have already cultivated exotic flowers and vegetables on an 800-square feet plot on a building’s terrace. Soil-less agriculture isn’t labour-intensive, and can be a good business opportunity if done with the right skills and knowledge,” she says. Farmers agree though, that soil-less agriculture cannot be treated as a magic solution. Besides the high initial investment, the method requires practice in order to succeed. “Growers need to manage the various parameters more meticulously as compared to soil-based cultivation. And despite the good results, there is no premium pricing for the produce from hydroponics,” says Srinivasan. Having taught innumerable home growers about soil-less agriculture, Prakash says the results of Mission Turmeric showed him the importance of reaching out to the nation’s farming community. “More farmers should take up soil-less agriculture, because it can help them to grow healthier crops in the long run. This is the difference between lab and applied science,” he says.

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[clearmakermoon]

Planter Bags

They are made from 100% natural coco chips and coco peat (coconut chips and peat). They are an excellent eco-friendly growing medium in limited space. They are specially designed for organic green houses, home and sky gardening and for any other economical cultivation.

https://www.ceyloncocopeat.com/product.php?name=Planter-Bags

[indoorgrowing321]

Biocanna Bio Terra Plus Earthmix  | Indoor Growing Canada

It is a reduced peat potting mix, composed of the best white peat, coco coir, and organic components without any materials derived from animals. Coco coir offers a solution as a sustainable alternative for peat. Combining the exceptional physical properties of high-quality white peat.

Read More:- https://indoorgrowingcanada.com/collections/biocanna/products/biocanna-bio-terra-plus-melange-de-terre-50l-1

[hedgehogsofasgard]

Hi, I recently got my first hedgehog. I already have lots of geckos and frogs in large heavily planted bioactive setups, and am hoping to do the same with the my new hog! Your posts are some of the only ones I've been able to find on the topic of naturalistic enclosures. Apparently North America is in love with fleece liners :P. A few questions then: What types of sand have you mixed into the substrate, and what sort of leaf litter are you using? Oak? Thanks!

Ah yes, America Land of the Fleece (it’s true).

I’m currently using coco peat, coco husk, eco potting earth, reptile sand and play sand. Most of the leaves are beech.

There is very little (probably none...) information about bioactive enclosures when it comes to hedgehogs. When I started researching, I managed to find one other person who had a hog on bio (they currently don’t have their hog anymore so I have no idea how it worked out). It’s pretty much trial and error for me as well, and I am planning on writing a proper “caresheet” on how to set it all up, what materials to use etc. but I want to wait until I have my setups running for about 6 months because I had no idea how it’d work out either. Most other countries do use natural setups (not bio, but at least more natural compared to the US standard) so I can point you towards a few FB groups if you’d like, but I’m not sure if you speak any other languages - most of those groups are German but I’m in several others too. Although maybe looking at pictures would be helpful already? I recently started an international (English) FB group called Bioactive And Naturalistic Mammal Setups to discuss and share ideas with other owners. There are several people in the group now trying out bio (or naturalistic) with their hedgehogs which is great, hopefully more people will get interested in keeping their hedgehogs in a natural way!

[mrhouseplant]

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Mr. Houseplant🌿🌿Vladan Nikolic (@nikolicvladan)

Sansevieria Cylindrica propagation - A very simple propagation video of a sansevieria cylindrica I bought here, in Belgrade, Serbia. I am still in Belgrade, until the COVID-19 situation gets a bit better and they open up the airports, so I can go back to DC. I went to a local flower shop and bought a bunch of plants I can propagate, to keep myself busy ☺️⠀ ⠀ ➡️I let the cuttings callous for a few days. I don't usually do this, as snake plants are easy to root, but since I squished the cuttings with the scissors, I decided to give them some time to callous.⠀ ➡️I used potting soil that I could find here, not sure what it is exactly, definitelly not peat moss, nor coco coir. But it's pretty water retentive and not very porous. So I mixed it with sand - 50% sand, 50% soil. ⠀ ➡️After callousing, I potted the cuttings and placed on a heat mat, in a south facing windows, with a few hours of direct sun (30,000-100,000 lux) and when there is no direct sun, the light is usually above 5,000 lux. The heat mat raises the temperature of the soil by 5-10C, it significantly speeds up propagation, both in soil and water. Warm temperature and bright light are the two best things you can do to speed up propagation. If you're interested in the heat mat, you can find the link in my bio.⠀ ➡️I'll post an update in a few weeks, once the roots and new shoots start growing ☺️ ⠀ ⠀ I hope everyone is well and staying safe. We need to keep a positive mindset and what's better to help us stay positive than plants ☺️⠀ .⠀ .⠀ .⠀ .⠀ .⠀ #mrhouseplant #propagation #snakeplant #sansevieria⠀ #greenliving #house_plant_community #houseplantclub #houseplants #ihavethisthingwithplants #interiorrewilding #pausewithplants #peoplewithplants #plantdad #plantdaddy #plantgang #plantgeek #plantgoals #plantlife #plantparenthood #plants #plantsathome #plantslovers #plantsmakemehappy #plantsmakepeoplehappy #plantstagram #therealhouseplantsofinstagram #urbanjungle #urbanjunglebloggers (at Belgrade, Serbia) https://www.instagram.com/p/B_qTiTQgo_8/?igshid=166g3dmvhim7s

[coconutoil-vco]

Coco Peat Bulk Production

Coco Peat Bulk Production

Coco Peat Bulk Production .  The largest coconut producer in the world is Indonesia. The largest Indonesian country in Southeast Asia can produce 18.3 million tons of coconuts each year, and the number is increasing year by year. Although the amount of coconut produced in many areas in Indonesia is unconditionally large, not every of them are used to make or be processed into processed coconut…

[trustbasket]

How to Make Compost at Home?

The best part about nature is that it can turn even the waste from our kitchen into fertile soil for our garden by composting. Composting is a process of converting the bio-degradable waste into compost that helps in the plant’s growth.

Composting is an effective way to make the best use of the kitchen leftovers and decompose them to create healthy soil. Let us discuss the process and the steps involved in making Organic compost at home easily and effectively.

1. Why Organic Composting?

In the process of Organic composting, we help the soil to remain healthy and fertile. Organic compost stimulates the composting ability in the soil and circulates the nutrients in the soil. When it comes to Chemical compost, they may give a good yield at once. But it makes the soil lose its natural essence and the soil becomes useless.

2. Selecting the Bin

The kitchen compost bin plays a significant role in the formation of compost. TrustBin is an indoor composter bin that can convert most of the kitchen food waste into compost.  TrustBin is a great composter by Trust Basket that will carryout the process of composting and prevents any foul smell. It does not require any set up to operate and provides lifetime support with its unique design and high durability. It is a 14 ltr bin made of premium quality virgin plastic. Composting is carried out in an anaerobic process i.e. the system should be completely air tight.

3. Adding the Material

Make sure that you do not put all the kitchen waste in the compost bin. Using the TrustBin, you can convert most of the household organic wastes including fresh fruits and vegetables, cooked /uncooked meat, fish, cheese, eggs, bread, coffee grinds, tea bags, wilted flowers, tissues etc., But you cannot add Plastic, Paper, Glass, Rotten food (Don't add food that is smelling or has mold formation), Curry, Sambar, Rasam , Hot food etc.,

· Monitoring External Factors: You should carefully monitor different external factors that play a crucial role in compost formation. These factors include –

· Temperature: The process does not work in high temperature. So the bin has to be kept indoor. Keeping the bin under the kitchen is the best way to maintain the appropriate temperature.

· Aeration: As the composting is done in anaerobic process, there should not be any aeration in the bin. The system must be completely airtight. 

HOW TO COMPOST USING TRUSTBIN?

There are few easy steps to be followed to convert the food waste into compost using the TrustBin. It does not require any expertise to carry out the process.

Stage 1 – Pickling Process

•      Fix the Tap

•      Spread the Jaggery and place the filter.

•      Place few sheets of newspaper on the filter.

•      Spread 3-4 tablespoons of compost maker powder, add the food waste and compost maker powder again.

•      Repeat the process until the bin is full. Once the bin is full, it needs to be closed and kept for minimum 15-20 days     

Stage 2 – Fermentation Process

•      During the span of 15 days, liquid fertilizer will be produced. That can be either used to plants by diluting with water in the ratio 1:30 and has to be sprayed.

•      If you do not have plants you can directly add the strong solution to the kitchen drain and sinks. It is a fantastic natural cleaner.

•      After keeping the bin closed for 15 days, open the bin and mix it with either soil or coco peat that is reconstituted in a bigger container and keep it for another 15-20 days.

•      100% organic and homemade composter will be ready for your home garden. You can add the compost mixture directly to the plants.

With the help of TrustBin, you can make the process easy and fast. Get the best compost bin online at Trust Basketand start making compost at your home today.