#apparently tumblr has a characters per block limit. huh. hence: took the liberty of making paragraphs again

[aaronburrdaily]

October 22, 1809

Couche at 12. Rose at 7. The coverture¹ of my bed last night was a down [duvet] bed, very light, but so intolerably hot that I was obliged to dismiss it and get a blanket. Our friend came punctually at the appointed time. We were at breakfast, and he joined us, not having breakfasted.

Went to see the church. The interior is Gothic excessively surcharged with ornament of all colours. The pictures in a very coarse style. Yet there is a solemnity in those lofty arches which renders it the best style of architecture for temples. The sexton could tell nothing of the history of the church. Saw no date older than 300 years. Went up into the cupola. The fog prevented seeing anything, and we had the pleasure of coming down again a dark, steep stairway, and sometimes a ladder.

Thence went to see the Commandant, in which I had several views, one of which was to get rid of the vexatious ceremony of presentation at the police on my arrival at Copenhagen. Was, of course, stopped by a centinel² at the outer gate. Sent by a soldier my card, together with a message that I was waiting admission to see him. Was admitted and courteously received. Asked indirectly, and with apologies, to see the apartments in the castle. He informed me that the whole was now a barracks, and the chapel a magazine; that all the furniture and pictures were removed to Copenhagen. He walked with me through two or three rooms, but with evident reluctance; so, pretending that my curiosity was quite satisfied, and having obtained the promise of a letter, which, being shown to the police at Copenhagen, would exonerate me from personal attendance, I took leave.

One circumstance, however, did not quite please me. When I was yesterday at the custom-house to exhibit my baggage, the officer asked if I had any sealed letters. I told him I had one of introduction from Baron Engerström to M. Didelot, the French minister at Copenhagen. He made no further inquiry, nor did he ask to see this letter; but, having accidentally shown it to the Commandant, he said he was bound, by his orders, to retain it, and to transmit it to the King; but assured me that it would be forthwith delivered, unopened, to its address. I had scarcely got home when a Sergeant brought me the promised letter from the Commandant, an open letter to be shown to the police.

We had engaged a carriage; a long wicker wagon, with seats on springs, for 5 dollars. The distance is about twenty-six English miles. These 5 dollars are equal to about 1 1/2 of your money. It was near 12 before we were ready to set off, and our young friend thought we had better eat a beefsteak, to prevent delay on the road, and he ordered it. With the steak (which was very good), potatoes, and porter, we made a hearty meal, and he had the goodness to join us. Our bill at this house was 22 dollars and 3 marks. At 12 we set off. The road is broad, straight, elevated, turnpiked, and requires toll; very small, however, about 8 sti.³ for the whole distance.

The fog and mist prevented the enjoyment of distant views. There is generally cultivation on each side. Some heaths. Rather deficient in wood. Generally thin soil, of sandy loam. Everywhere piles of turf dug up for fuel. The fences generally of sod, with a small ditch on one or both sides. In some places a substantial bank, like those on your rice-plantations. No rocks or ridges; few stones. Few houses worthy of notice. Gentle swells and hills; none lofty. Frequently in view of the ocean on the left, and several small lakes.

At half way, a small town of about sixty houses in one street; generally of one story and very low, called Amsterdam. Passed two manufactories, one of cotton spinning, weaving, and printing. A palace of the King a little this side of Amsterdam. It was dark before reaching this city. At the first gate our passports were examined. At the next the custom-house officer visited our baggage. It was done with courtesy, and did not detain us two minutes. Arrived at Rau's Hotel, in the Grand Square, at 7. The approach to the city is very pretty; for notwithstanding the fog, the moon (nearly full) gave light enough to show us something. About a mile before reaching the walls of the town, on an extensive plain, you are presented with three avenues through rows of trees. The middle one was our road.

1 For couverture. Coverlet. 2 So in the MS. 3 Stivers. The stiver was worth perhaps 2 cents.