aaronburrdaily

[aaronburrdaily]

November 19 (supposed), 1809

After parting with you last evening H. came in; had been at the Chancellier's table and unfortunate; was willing to go at 8 but had rather not; wished first to see Captain Davis encore,¹ hoping something of fin.²; also to see Mrs. ——— of New York, who passed through this place yesterday and proposed to return cet. aprem'i. Son defunt ami de Gam.³ Assented, therefore, to postpone till 5 P.M.; it being near full moon, thought we could go very well the four Danish miles, equal to about seventeen English, to Elmsholm,⁴ being the first station. Staid at home all day doing nothing. Mrs. ——— did not come nor has yet come (11 o'clock). Captain D. came about 5. In the meantime I had ordered horses; by 7 no horses had come; sent to the Magistrate (something like our Mayor) whose duty it is to compel the postmaster to give horses. Returned for answer that he would do it forthwith; but as the gates of the town were shut at 7 it would be impossible to go out till the morning. Submitted to the message and have again ordered horses for 8 in the morning. Captain D. sat two hours and parlè'd⁵ much. Played chess with Hosack till just now and so bon soir.

1 Again. 2 Probably for finance, or finances. 3 This afternoon (cet aprês-midi). Her deceased [husband] a friend of Gamp. (Défunt.) 4 For Elmshorn. 5 A hybrid verb from French parler, to talk.

[aaronburrdaily]

November 18, 1809

Glückstadt, November 18, 1809. Forever in some trouble about the day of the month, but am never more than one or two days out. Our amiable friend le Commandant Donsur took us this morning to see le haut Chancellier de Holstein,¹ le Baron de quelque chose² which shall be found out and told anon. It seems he had already announced us, for his Excellency knew all about us. Received us very courteously and understanding that we are to leave town to-morrow, asked us to dine to-day en famille; agreed. Went at 1/2 p. 2. Y: Madame ———; M———, the third Judge, and ———, a literary man of modest, intelligent appearance whose name I regret to have lost. The Chancellier appears about 47; small, maigre,³ but sprightly, courteous, and sensible; something like Madison⁴ in appearance. A la Soedoise, we all stood and said our grace; and after dinner all rose at once, and after returning thanks, bowed, &c, adjourned to the drawing-room. The dinner was of several courses. Each dish served in succession, first being carved by Madame, and then handed round by the servant. At each two plates a bottle of wine (claret), tumblers and glasses; each drank as he pleased. Some choice wines were sent round, a glass to each. Madame has four lovely children, the three youngest particularly; the two eldest, girls. Home at 7. Snow and hail. The house at which I lodge is the rendezvous of the Club. The noblesse⁵ of the town meet every Saturday evening for conversation, cards, and supper. (The ladies' club assemble at the same house every Tuesday evening.) I went in a few minutes, but I declined to join at cards, as well from an aversion to lose as because I must pack up, and so adieu, Madame, till that labour be gone through. Minuit.⁶ Done, even the picture; all, all packed, ready for starting at sunrise. I bid you bon soir a dozen times before I shut you up in that dark case. I can never do it without regret. It seems as if I were burying you alive.

1 The High Chancellor of Holstein 2 The Baron of something. 3 Thin, spare. 4 James Madison, at this time President of the United States. 5 The nobility. 6 Midnight.

[aaronburrdaily]

November 13, 1809

Flensburg, November 13, 1809. Arrived at 5 A.M., having been four and a half hours on the route from ———; very dark. The country appeared to us to be a plain; little cultivated or inhabited and destitute of wood. Passed three small villages; this town the largest since leaving Copenhagen. Plays every night; pleasantly situated on the water. Rose at 9. Embarras¹ about money. Changed two guineas at 5 dollars courant.²

Sleswig,³ Monday evening, (I believe), November 13, 1809. Rose this morning at 1/2 p. 8, having gone twelve miles yesterday, as you already know, and four and a half miles this day, as I now tell you. The story is thus. Our danske⁴ paper money was exhausted and, indeed, often was worthless; our bills on Humbro⁵ could not be sold; fortunately I had reserved a few guineas, or we must have been on charity. These enquiries and the exchange of guineas which was finally done at 4 rix dollars, (a great loss), took up till 11. We then set off; for the first time a sort of cover on one seat of our wagon. Rose a long hill; when on the height could see no water about the town of Flensburg, as I told you. It must have been some cloud or an optical deception which led me to the error. We then rode among little sandhills; a plain on the right; some towns at a distance. Passed some fine barrows in perfect preservation; only one church. Two very small villages. The whole way sandy and heavy road; were five and one-half hours coming the four and one-half miles, equal to about twenty English. Arrived at 1/2 p. 4 and ordered horses to go to Redensborg.⁶ After this was done we learn that Redensborg is a fortified town, the gates of which are shut at 7 P.M. We therefore countermanded our horses and ordered them at 6. Got an excellent dinner at 7. Soup, fish, ducks, fowls, with cakes and apples for dessert; had two bottles wine, of which I drank my one-third. Changed three guineas at 4 rix dollars 24 sch. The tavern is in all respects excellent, the house, the beds, the maids.

1 Embarrassment. 2 Current money. 3 For Schleswig. 4 Danish. 5 For Hamburg. 6 For Rendsburg.

[aaronburrdaily]

November 11, 1809

Golding,¹ Jutland, Sunday, November 10 or 11, 1809. We crossed the Little Belt² at 8 this evening. Hosack was so beat out that he would go no further, finding there a tolerable tavern. R. and I came on two and a half Danish miles, or ten English, to this place, where we arrived at midnight. Slept till 8. Hosack came in about 10. At 11 went to deliver Lieutenant ———'s letter to Mr. ———; was received by a very pretty girl plainly dressed but of very fine form, which proved to be the daughter. The father a good, kind old man. M'lle sang and played in a very superior style. She has given concerts at Kyholm. The chateau burnt in the time of Bernadotte, Prince de Pontecorvo. Got off at 1. At 5 to Hadersleb.,³ the first town in Sleswig,⁴ famed for beautiful women. The tavern a very elegant one; fine paintings, &c. The daughter a very accomplished girl, speaking French perfectly well. Were much disposed to stay the night here, but at this rate we shall never get on.

1 For Kolding. 2 Strait between Funen and Jutland. 3 For Hadersleben. 4 For Schleswig.

[aaronburrdaily]

November 8, 1809

Rochild.,¹ November 8, 1809. The ancient, not, however, the most ancient, residence of the Kings of Denmark. Though I left Madame Tutine's et le belle Prussienne² at 8 last evening much against my will and theirs, and without any known or assignable reason, I did nothing all the evening; was somehow out of order and as I thought unfit for society; some people thought otherwise. Got tea a ma facon.³ Wrote postscript to my letter to Lüning. At 9 came in the dom. of Madame de Wederkop to apologize for the disappointment of last evening and begging to see me in the morning. The apology was something singular. At 12 went to work on the Coest.⁴ and wrought well but more and more out of humor with my brusque manner of quitting la Prus.⁵ At 9 sor. to Madame Wederkop; gave her in charge my letter to Liming and received from her two for Sleswick.⁶ To A.B. Rothe, with whom 1/2 hour about committees, councils, &c. A very prompt, intelligent, communicative man about 46. He is to address to me at Hamburg his reply to my queries. To Olsen's; Blecker O. had left town; H.G.O. exceedingly civil; mortified that I will leave town; offers to devote himself; assures me of all sorts of respectful attentions. Why, then, do I not stay? Because I had resolved to go, had announced it, &c, though I do admit that I have had much to encounter to get out. From Olsen's to J. de Coningk's, where 1/2 hour and thence home. Found H. and R. ready and waiting. I had ordered horses at 11. At 11 I got home and the horses were at the door; not a thing packed up, bills to settle, servants to pay, quelle embarras!⁷ We went to work all hands and at 1 were ready and embarked. The mode of traveling is in a long wagon, the body wickerwork; no springs; but the seats with cushions and backs, hung on leather. The road is paved with pebbles, like the streets in our towns.

Note: At the moment of packing up Mr. Hellfried came in to make a visit; rather late. The promise of three marks above the customary fee to the driver brought us on very briskly. With four fine, large black horses, we performed this stage in three hours; the distance four Danish miles, about twenty-one English.

After rising and descending the hill on which is the palace of Fredericksberg, the whole is almost a plain. Many village churches; all low, and with a square tower at one end, interspersed with those little hills which are called barrows — places of interment at a period beyond tradition or record. At one time I counted thirteen in view. These, and those I have seen in Sweden, resemble those which we have seen on the Ohio, the Mississippi, and the Missouri.

We dined at Taastrup⁸ (half way). Goose, excellent; corned pork (ditto), with bread, butter and very fine cheese. Our drink was a kind of light ale. This repast for us three, including drink for our coachman, cost 3 dollars 1 mark, about 1 dollar United States money.

Very soon after leaving Taastrup we had in view the turrets of the ancient Cathedral of Rochild.⁹ We are lodged in a neat, comfortable inn. A widow lady, two smiling maids, so like Sweden that we cannot believe they are Danes. On my arrival called on Professor Gamberg, and showed him Olsen's note. He returned with me to the inn. He has apprised the wachmeister¹⁰ or the sexton to be ready to show us the Cathedral at 8 in the morning.

This is the object of my staying here to-night; I must see the tomb and bust of Marguerite, called the Semiramis¹¹ of the North, and of ———, but you shall know. That you may judge of the expense of traveling — we paid for our wagon and four horses 7 1/2 dollars, and 1 dollar to the coachman; in the whole about 12 shillings sterling.

Having dined plentifully, we took tea for supper in the evening; a bottle of very fine claret, and for my part, with hot water and sugar. The picture has come on my lap. I could not bear to see you bouncing about at the bottom of the wagon, but I shall not open it again till Hamburg. My companions are asleep and now, at 11, having had my bed warmed, much the mode here, I am also going to make up the arrears of the last two nights, having ordered breakfast at 7 and the pretty maid to wake me at 6. Let me see, how are you now employed? Probably at breakfast, with Gampy asking you an hundred of questions about — God knows!

1 For Röskilde. Burr pays no attention whatever to the correct spelling of geographical names. Röskilde was an ancient ecclesiastical center. It had at one time a population of 100,000 and was the capital of Denmark till 1443. 2 Le for la. And the handsome Prussian lady. 3 For à ma façon. In my style. 4 See Glossary. 5 For la Prussienne. 6 For Schleswig. 7 For quel embarras ! What perplexity! 8 For Höjetaastrup. 9 For Röskilde. There are many interesting tombs at Röskilde, including those of several Kings and Queens of Denmark. The Cathedral, built in the middle of the thirteenth century in the Transition style, is with three exceptions the finest medieval church in Scandinavia. It is 280 feet long; the tower is 246 feet high. 10 For Danish vagtmester. Doorkeeper, porter. 11 The legendary wife of Ninus, the founder of Nineveh. She reigned after his death and conquered all Asia except India; built the city of Babylon, with its hanging gardens, etc. She was said to be endowed with surpassing beauty and wisdom. The Greeks ascribed to this superlative Queen everything marvelous in the Orient.

[aaronburrdaily]

October 31, 1809

It ought to be the 30th. When the blunder began, you must find out. At 11 to Olsen's. Met Blicker Olsen, who looks as well as when in the United States, though complaining of very bad health. Received me civilly and kindly. Has no establishment in town, and a very plain one in the country. Their house and furniture were burned during the English siege. Madame stayed in the house till it was in flames. Fifty-two balls and shells had come into it while she remained there. Hundreds of families have been ruined by that infernal siege. Dined at J. de Coningk's; about fifteen at table. Nothing very remarkable. The widow Clements has announced her intended marriage with Mr. ———, a gentleman about ten years her junior. She is still handsome and desirable, though a grandmother.

[aaronburrdaily]

October 30, 1809

Catteau says that it rains usually every day of October in Zealand. Since I landed in Elsinore, I forgot when, but you may see by looking back, it has been every day fine till Friday last, excepting only the day I came from Elsinore to this place. But since Thursday we have not seen sun or moon. A constant fog, and, generally, mist so heavy as to wet you. Called on d'C.'s; the King and Queen have arrived on the Island of Zealand. Will be this night at Fredericksberg, and to-morrow make their entrè in town. G.H. Olsen called this morning; and at 12 Professor Ramus, by appointment, to visit the collection of coins and medals at Rosenborg. This palace built by Charles IV. or V., I forget which, and is at one end of the gardens, which are open for the public as a promenade. The palace and garden are in the same enclosure. A wood extending the length of the garden, and about one hundred yards wide. The collection is immense. Ramus says forty thousand, being in value and number next to those of Paris and Vienna. The coins of all times and all nations; Europe, Asia, America, and from the early days of Athens. Several of Alexander and Philip. Most of them are described in a work printed at the expense of the government, three immense volumes in folio, and sold for the inconsiderable price of ———. The Flora Danica¹ is published and sold in like manner. Being with the Professor, paid nothing. Hosack and Robinson accompanied me. Din. a table d'hôte.² Evening to Fredericksberg, a very muddy walk of more than two English miles. The park and gardens must be some hundreds of acres. Water, bridges, fountains; the effect (of the illumination) in some places pretty, but nowhere answering my expectations. Almost total want of music. The crowd such that one was in a constant struggle. The sentinels on each side prevented any one from going out of the walks. Got home at 10 and consoled myself with Tem.³

1 The Danish Flora. 2 For diner à [la] table d'hôte. 3 For Tempe, a girl previously referred to.

[aaronburrdaily]

October 29, 1809

Got another servant (Myer) at 1 dollar per day; but wholly to myself. This partnership in servants won't do at all. Myer is a dignified German of 72; was in the United States war, and has been twenty-five years in England. His last service was with the Russian minister. Sent Myer with a note to G.H. Olsen, brother of the late minister, to inquire of the latter; received a very civil note in reply saying that B. Olsen was in the country, but wife and daughters in town and would be happy to see me. Went off forthwith to see them. Madame is perfectly well preserved; a sensible, lady-like woman. The daughters very well. Mr. G.H.O. tendered all sorts of civilities.

[aaronburrdaily]

October 28, 1809

Couche at 1. Rose at 7. Called on J. de C. at 10. Was received by Madame with very engaging frankness and ease. Passed an hour with the family. Got some books, and he sent his servant for others for me from the King's library. Young brother of Mr. J. de C. went to show me Puerari's; out; left card. Had scarcely got home, when Puerari called on me. We walked to see the library of Classenborg, about which I have a pretty story to tell you. This library is confined to natural history and botany, and is magnificent in those departments. It is in care of Professor Ramus, to whom I was there introduced. He tendered himself to go with me on Sunday to the Palace of Rosen, and to show me the collections of coins and medals, which is said to be splendid. I shall make some addition to Gampy's stock here. You can't think what trouble the little varlet has brought me into. Having on my arrival inquired where some coins and medals could be had, it was immediately noised about that I was a medal and coin hunter, and scientific, of course, in numismatique.¹ Puerari introduced me as such to Ramus, for which I could have boxed him. Dined to-day, for the first time, at the table d'hote,² and am so well pleased with the company that shall dine there henceforth when not engaged abroad. At 6 walked out to see the illuminations and fireworks at the palace of Fredericksberg, about 1 1/2 miles, on occasion of the arrival of the King and Queen. You must know that the Queen has been passing some months (ever since the death of the late King) with her father in Holstein, and has never yet been seen here as Queen, which is the cause of all this stir. And so it happened that we all, about 30,000 of us, came back as we went; the King and Queen had not arrived; there was neither illumination nor fireworks; we were all quite sad. The report is that the King cannot get across the Belt a cause du³ British fleet. Called on Schlegel this morning; out.

1 The science of coins and medals. 2 For table d'hôte. Literally, host's or guest's table. A complete meal regularly served in a public dining room. 3 Because of the.

[aaronburrdaily]

October 27, 1809

Couche at 1. Rose at 7. You must know, Madame, that the King and Queen are expected to arrive at Fredericksberg to-morrow, and to make formal entrè¹ in town on Saturday. There are to be great doings. M. de Coningk called this morning to propose to take me to Mr. de Hellfried's this evening, who would invite me to take my stand at his house on Saturday, as being a most eligible spot for seeing the procession; agreed. Mr. de H. is commander of the Order of Danborg, and one of his daughters married Schlegel,² author of a "Treatise on Neutral Rights," which I read some three or four years ago with great pleasure and approbation. Walked about town this forenoon. It is very handsome, but of this more anon. Din. seul and a bottle wine. Have tried in vain to hire a valet de place,³ my Mons. Thomas being of no use to me; gets drunk before dinner. At 7 Mr. de C. called, and we went to Mr. de Hellfried's. There was Schlegel. Madame Clements, also daughter of de C, came in and I did not at first recognize her, nor did I afterward atone for it. She staid but a few minutes. A bonnet and a change of dress prevented, and disguised her. At dinner, yesterday, was much pleased with her. Will atone the first opportunity. Staid about an hour. A very pleasant family. Schlegel just such a man as I wished and expected to find; apparently about 44. Sat an hour and home. Mr. Hellfried lent me a book, of which he is the author, "A Survey of the British Attack on Denmark in 1807." I read about one hundred pages. It is written with a genuine patriotic enthusiasm. Omitted: Went this afternoon to see the King's library; 300,000 volumes! Deemed the third in Europe. There are reading rooms and fires. Catteau says this library was burned in 1794. Not a book! The librarian extremely civil; no pay.

1 For entrée. Entry. 2 Friedrich Schlegel (1772-1829). The title of the work was "Sur la Visite des Vaisseaux Neutres Sous Convoi, ou Examen Impartial du Jugement Prononcé par le Tribunal de l'Amirauté Angloise 1799," etc. "On the Visit of Neutral Ships under Convoy, or an Impartial Examination of the Decision Pronounced by the Court of the English Admiralty." 3 A guide for tourists.

[aaronburrdaily]

October 26, 1809

Sat up till 1 last evening, being a little out of humor with one Gamp; made some pious resolutions. Rose at 7. At 10 to leave a card for the French minister, Mon. Didelot; in the country, not having yet returned to town. Perhaps I have not told you that the Commandant at Elsinore retained Engerström's letter to Didelot. He said he was expressly bound by his orders to do so. I learned yesterday that the letter had been delivered. All letters coming in or going out must be examined by the police. I went there (to the police-office) yesterday with my letter for Hauterive, which was examined and sealed with their seal, which is a warrant to the postmaster to receive and forward it. My letter being in English, and written stylographically, was not very legible, as you know. Yesterday, too, I went with Hendrick to the museum, of which more another time. Paid for the party 3 dollars. Remember, when dollars are mentioned in Denmark, it means the paper dollar, as before explained. At 3 went to de Coningk's to dine. Found there the son heretofore mentioned; a very sensible and well-bred man, speaking perfectly well French and English; his wife ditto; her sister; two daughters of Professor Puerari, Genevois,¹ a man of very prepossessing manners and appearance. The dinner good and abundant. No troublesome stiffness or forms. All rose at once. After coffee and tea, home at 7. Had scarcely got home before Hosack and Robinson came in. I was, indeed, very glad to see them. You may recollect that we parted on the 2d of October. They brought me a letter from Lüning; a most affectionate letter, but something more; enclosing a draught on his correspondent at Hamburg for 1,000 marks! Did you ever hear of anything to equal this except in novels? I am quite embarrassed what to do.² In the evening, to my great surprise, and uninvited, tapped gently at my door Tempe. You know I never disappoint people if I can help it and so T. was not dismissed; 4 rix dollars. With great trepidation I opened the picture on Sunday morning. It has suffered no injury. It hangs in my room; but I am quite out of humour that my visitors have expressed only commonplace admiration. La jeune M'lle de Coningk has expressed a desire to see it, and thither you go to-morrow.

1 For Génevois. Genevese. 2 Lüning's letter, under date of October 21, 1809, was as follows: "I take the liberty to send you the enclosed letter, at the producing of which Mr. H. Bauer will pay you 1,000 marks, Hamburg currency, which you will please reimburse when you arrive in England or America. I cannot tell you how much I am thankful to Providence for having given me the pleasure to get acquainted with a man whom I admired long ago. I esteemed you before; now I love you."

[aaronburrdaily]

October 25, 1809

Rose at 7. At 10 to de Coningk's; saw only the son. It is an immense house and everything in a style of great elegance. Thence to return the visit of the Prussian consul, about one mile, being just without the walls on the road to Elsinore; not at home, but his wife, whom I met in the court, on seeing my card introduced me to her sister and daughter and proposed a walk in the garden. It is prettily laid out, and contains many acres. An avenue extending in a straight line to the sea about 1/4 mile. Madame a very pleasing, well-behaved woman. Home at 12. Walked over the ruins, of which a part is the magnificent church of ———, the most splendid in the city, and containing many monuments of kings and great men. The walls and the roof are standing. To a bookseller's, where, on entering, I was called by my name. In a town of this size, about 80,000 inhabitants, a stranger is immediately known. Home. Wrote a short letter to Lüning; a very short and unsatisfactory one, not having procured for him the mercantile information which I had promised; but, indeed, I have tried. At 2 Hendrick actually set off, having been on the point of starting since 8 this morning. Sold a dubloon for 48 rix dollars. The money here, as in Sweden, is paper, but still more depreciated than there. A guinea is worth 16 dollars. Prices have not advanced quite in the same proportion; so that, to one having gold or credit in Hamburg, living is very cheap, as you shall see. Dined in my room and alone yesterday and to-day and had a bottle of wine each day. You see I am making up arrears. After dinner, walked in the King's Garden. It is a garden and park, a beautiful promenade, but did not go over it; having renc. jo., gent., home ensem.¹; 4 rix dollars. In the evening the maid at the usual hour brought tea but in a very unusual style. A splendid tea service of silver and two cups. I asked why she brought two cups (I being alone). She said with perfect simplicity and without any smile or queer looks that she supposed Madame would have staid to tea. In the evening walked out, intending to go to the park again, but the gate was locked, though only 8 o'clock. In walking, however, a renc.; 1 r.d.; passab.² How unnecessary and how silly!

1 For having rencontré [une fille] jolie, gentille, home ensemble. Having come across a genteel, pretty girl, went home together. 2 For a rencontre; 2 rix dollars; passable. A rencounter; 2 rix dollars; tolerable or middling.

[aaronburrdaily]

October 24, 1809

Rose at 7. The Prussian consul, Mr. Tutine, called to see me, with Hendrick to introduce him, and presently Mr. John de Coningk (son of the gentleman to whom I had a letter) on the part of his father who is invalid (a paralytic stroke) and to ask me to dine on Wednesday. Ought to have written a great deal this evening, as Hendrick goes to-morrow and another safe occasion may not soon offer; but it is now 12 and have not written a line. Yes, I wrote a copy of my letter to Hauterive for the mail to-morrow, and nothing more.

[aaronburrdaily]

October 23, 1809

Copenhagen, October 23, 1809. No theatre was opened last evening, nor was there any public amusement. After strolling an hour, during which mus. mauv.; 1 d.¹ came home; took tea as my supper; engaged a servant at 3 marks a day; not, however, to attend me exclusively. LI. de ch. gro. pas mauv. mus. encore.² My room, a very large and elegant one on the first floor, looks into the square, and it is again my good fortune to have a military parade and band of music under my window in the morning. After breakfast sent cards to Olsen, formerly minister plenipotentiary from this government to the United States, and to Nailsen, formerly judge in Santa Cruz, who passed some time in New York on his way home. Both were abroad. Olsen at some distance at a country seat. Sent also Baron d'Albedÿhll's letter to M. de Coningk, conseiller d'etat³ with card. Hearing that G. Jay, American consul for Rotterdam, lodged in this house, sent my name by a servant. Walked about town an hour or two. It is regularly laid out on a plain. The harbour artificial. Very few vessels. Houses almost universally of brick, but generally made white or stone-coloured. Had a bowl of soup, with a bottle of Rhenish wine, in my room for dinner. In the afternoon took a servant to pilot me to the Observatory. The height is said to be 160 feet, placed nearly in the center of the town, and affords a most perfect bird's-eye view of the whole, with a prospect of the ocean; a fine landscape in the interior; the Palace of Fredericksberg, finely placed on an eminence. The Swedish coast. The ascent to the top is singular; not by steps, but an inclined spiral plane, paved with brick. It is said that a former King drove up with a coach and four, which is very practicable till you come within about ten feet of the summit, where you have steps, but how he got back is not said, for it is utterly impossible to turn. Paid 1 mark, and one more to my conductor. Home and alone the evening. La flick⁴ later.

1 For muse mauvaise; 1 dollar. Bad muse; 1 dollar. 2 For Fille de chambre; grosse, pas mauvaise. Muse encore. The chambermaid, fat, not bad; muse again. 3 State Councilor. 4 For la flicka. French and Swedish. The lass.

[aaronburrdaily]

October 22, 1809

Couche at 12. Rose at 7. The coverture¹ of my bed last night was a down [duvet] bed, very light, but so intolerably hot that I was obliged to dismiss it and get a blanket. Our friend came punctually at the appointed time. We were at breakfast, and he joined us, not having breakfasted.

Went to see the church. The interior is Gothic excessively surcharged with ornament of all colours. The pictures in a very coarse style. Yet there is a solemnity in those lofty arches which renders it the best style of architecture for temples. The sexton could tell nothing of the history of the church. Saw no date older than 300 years. Went up into the cupola. The fog prevented seeing anything, and we had the pleasure of coming down again a dark, steep stairway, and sometimes a ladder.

Thence went to see the Commandant, in which I had several views, one of which was to get rid of the vexatious ceremony of presentation at the police on my arrival at Copenhagen. Was, of course, stopped by a centinel² at the outer gate. Sent by a soldier my card, together with a message that I was waiting admission to see him. Was admitted and courteously received. Asked indirectly, and with apologies, to see the apartments in the castle. He informed me that the whole was now a barracks, and the chapel a magazine; that all the furniture and pictures were removed to Copenhagen. He walked with me through two or three rooms, but with evident reluctance; so, pretending that my curiosity was quite satisfied, and having obtained the promise of a letter, which, being shown to the police at Copenhagen, would exonerate me from personal attendance, I took leave.

One circumstance, however, did not quite please me. When I was yesterday at the custom-house to exhibit my baggage, the officer asked if I had any sealed letters. I told him I had one of introduction from Baron Engerström to M. Didelot, the French minister at Copenhagen. He made no further inquiry, nor did he ask to see this letter; but, having accidentally shown it to the Commandant, he said he was bound, by his orders, to retain it, and to transmit it to the King; but assured me that it would be forthwith delivered, unopened, to its address. I had scarcely got home when a Sergeant brought me the promised letter from the Commandant, an open letter to be shown to the police.

We had engaged a carriage; a long wicker wagon, with seats on springs, for 5 dollars. The distance is about twenty-six English miles. These 5 dollars are equal to about 1 1/2 of your money. It was near 12 before we were ready to set off, and our young friend thought we had better eat a beefsteak, to prevent delay on the road, and he ordered it. With the steak (which was very good), potatoes, and porter, we made a hearty meal, and he had the goodness to join us. Our bill at this house was 22 dollars and 3 marks. At 12 we set off. The road is broad, straight, elevated, turnpiked, and requires toll; very small, however, about 8 sti.³ for the whole distance.

The fog and mist prevented the enjoyment of distant views. There is generally cultivation on each side. Some heaths. Rather deficient in wood. Generally thin soil, of sandy loam. Everywhere piles of turf dug up for fuel. The fences generally of sod, with a small ditch on one or both sides. In some places a substantial bank, like those on your rice-plantations. No rocks or ridges; few stones. Few houses worthy of notice. Gentle swells and hills; none lofty. Frequently in view of the ocean on the left, and several small lakes.

At half way, a small town of about sixty houses in one street; generally of one story and very low, called Amsterdam. Passed two manufactories, one of cotton spinning, weaving, and printing. A palace of the King a little this side of Amsterdam. It was dark before reaching this city. At the first gate our passports were examined. At the next the custom-house officer visited our baggage. It was done with courtesy, and did not detain us two minutes. Arrived at Rau's Hotel, in the Grand Square, at 7. The approach to the city is very pretty; for notwithstanding the fog, the moon (nearly full) gave light enough to show us something. About a mile before reaching the walls of the town, on an extensive plain, you are presented with three avenues through rows of trees. The middle one was our road.

1 For couverture. Coverlet. 2 So in the MS. 3 Stivers. The stiver was worth perhaps 2 cents.

[aaronburrdaily]

October 21, 1809

Helsingborg, October 21, 1809. Supped again last night with the beautiful family of Barque c. d. Pres. des tribunaux soes. en Pomerania.¹ Drank tro. de vin, seeing that I had dined with the Governor; was, in consequence, obliged to sit up till 3, smoking, and reading, and writing. Having resolved to be up early and off at 9, slept sound till 1/2 p. 10! Pas tro. bien.² At 1/2 p. 11 called on Colonel ———, the Commandant, who comports with the utmost politeness. Will order a boat at any hour. Desired it might be at 2; but the passports of Hendrick not having arrived, shall be obliged to go stark alone. At 1/2 p. 12 got my breakfast, and went to packing up. In the midst of it, came in a very gentlemanly-looking man, who introduced himself to me as the Prussian consul at Elsinore. Gave me much useful information. Had a special favor to ask, to which agreed. Had just done packing, when came in the visiting officer, whose duty it is to inspect baggage, &c. Was sent by the Governor, that I might not have the trouble of sending my trunks to the custom-house, or opening them on the wharf. The examination consisted in opening my trunks, and without moving an article, he standing six yards off, and then he received from me 1/2 dollar; very pleasant. How fortunate is my long sleeping. The Commandant came in at 1/2 p. 2. "Good news for you. The passport of Hendrick is arrived, and he shall receive mine in fifteen minutes." A few minutes after he brought it, and waited to eschort³ me to the landing, and see me safe aboard. Heighho! for another, and, nominally, a hostile kingdom. Drizzling, fog, and brisk gale.

Elsinore, October 21, 1809. We crossed in an hour in a small open boat, though the wind was strong ahead; the distance 1,331 toises.⁴ Before leaving the Danish shore the sky cleared, and the sun shone brilliant; weather mild. At about 100 yards from the Danish shore were met by the Danish flag of truce, another boat like ours; for the Swedish boat is not allowed to approach nearer the shore. Each boat has a white flag to manifest the pacific intent. In the Danish boat we and our baggage embarked, and were presently ashore. Another boat took our passports to the Danish Commandant at the castle. The castle which has for ——— levied tribute on all Europe. We landed, leaving our baggage, and went under guard to the custom-house, where an officer examined our passports, endorsed them, and transmitted us, under guards to the castle, about half a mile, where we were exhibited to the Commandant, an elderly man of grave but courteous deportment. He asked in French, if I were Colonel Burr. I replied that I had no claim to a military title, but was commonly so called. Ask me to sit; inquired when I proposed to go to Copenhagen. "To-morrow." Said my passports should be transmitted to me that evening. Went then to our proposed lodgings, Madame Jeuel's. At the door saw carts loaded with furniture and much bustle. The good lady had sold out, and was in the act of moving. In this dilemma a sprightly young man interposed; supposed we were Americans addressed to his house; offered to provide us lodgings, and in ten minutes we were splendidly lodged chez Oder, a confectioner. Our new friend then went with us to see after our baggage. Found it at the custom-house. Our trunks were barely opened and shut. He paid the necessary (customary) douceurs.⁵ Our baggage being lodged, he ordered tea, at which we had the pleasure of his company. Inquired what hour we should sup, and ordered supper. Told us the wines were excellent, and ordered claret and port. It being a mild, brilliant, moonlight evening, he proposed to walk to the King's Garden and park adjoining the town, and thither we went. The Palace small, but neat and good taste. About twenty or thirty statues in a circular area in front, prettily disposed. The hill and terrace in the rear, something higher than the top of the Palace, extends a considerable length, perhaps half a mile, and affords a magnificent and varied view of the town, the castle, the ocean, the Baltic, the Swedish coast, and the town of Helsingborg. Paused at the tomb of Hamlet. It is on this terrace; a square pillar, about four feet high, and without inscription; the only monument. I would willingly have passed an hour alone on this terrace. Returned by another gate. The town very quiet. Our supper served at 9. Eels and mutton, both excellent, and the wines did justice to his recommendation, as he did to them. At 1/2 p. 10 he left us, first inquiring at what hour in the morning he should call to go and show us the church, which I had expressed a curiosity to see. I appointed 1/2 p. 8. My companion, Hendrick, went to bed, and I sat till past 12, smoking the segars which our young friend had given me.

1 Formerly President of the Swedish tribunals in Pomerania. (Soes. probably for suédois.) 2 [Feeling] none too well. 3 So throughout the MS. 4 A toise is a French measure of slightly more than six feet. 5 Literally sweetnesses or softnesses; hence the wherewithal to soften the custom-house officers.

[aaronburrdaily]

October 11, 1809

Couche at 12. Rose at 4. Made my own fire. Waked up the boy (a beautiful lad of 13, son of the landlady) and sent him with the letter. He found all asleep and no signs of traveling. At 5 he went again; still asleep. At 7 found a servant, who said that his master never got up till 9. At 9 sent him, and the letter was delivered. Walked with Lüning, who is quite well this morning, to Todd's (the tavern at the harbour) to see the Americans; not one there. Walked on to the lower harbour, about three miles, and home. Called on Lehman on returning; he does not go till to-morrow. Met in the street Mr. Gibson, who introduced himself to me and said he had no letters. Home at 12. Dr. Schulzen had called in my absence. At 1 went again to Todd's; not one of the captains to be seen. Again took brö and oust¹ with the addition of smoeur² and ale; 24 sch. Home at 1/2 p. 2. A letter, a letter, a letter! At a moment when I had given up all expectation and even all hope! At 5 P.M. this same Tuesday, October nth, came in a tall, meagre, well-dressed man and asked if I were A.B. "Yes." He handed me a letter superscribed in your handwriting. It is your letter of 1st and 2d August. I could have kissed the fellow! After reading it a few times, I went to return the visit of Dr. Schulzen, whom found at home. A modest man, of good sense, and a countenance of goodness. Home at 6. Tea. Lüning not come in, and now, at 10 o'clock, I have done nothing but write this. Your letter has discomposed my projects a little; but I shall persist in them, as you shall see.³

1 For Swedish ost. Cheese. 2 For Swedish smör. Butter. 3 Under date of Gothenburg, October 12, 1809, Burr wrote to Henry Gahn, Swedish consul, New York, as follows: "It would require volumes to give you an account of the persons and things which I have seen and thought worthy of notice. An imperfect sketch is preserved in a Journal which I have kept for the amusement of my daughter ; and which, if it should ever reach America, shall be offered to your perusal. * * * * * I am indebted to you for the amusement and instruction which I have found in this country; which, but for you, I should not have visited. I leave it with regret, bearing the most pleasing recollections of its hospitalities and with indelible sentiments of admiration and respect."