#and downplaying some of the themes and dynamics established earlier on

[wishfulsketching]

This is what the dynamic was like

[trendyclassicandvintage]

Fashionable and Historic Flashbacks: CFDA Edition: Nominees for Womenswear and Menswear Designers for 2018

Womenswear Nominees:

Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen for The Row

Abandoning their careers in television and film, including most recently an opportunity to work on their former show’s reboot Fuller House, Mary-Kate and Ashley surprised many with their active presence in fashion. According to The Fashion Law, the publication feels that the key the success of twins lies with their approach. The Fashion Law and the designers have established that in their fashion pursuits, the duo put the garments and their construction at the forefront, while simultaneously downplaying their presence and the roles that hold at their brands. Nevertheless, the duo seems to have solidified their presence in fashion history upon their induction into the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) during 2009, and subsequent awards from the organization including: Designer of the Year (Womenswear) in 2012 and 2015, and Designer of the Year (Accessories) in 2014.

Marc Jacobs

Jacobs is known for his ability to capture current cultural and societal preferences of young audiences in his work, as detailed by Vogue.com.He has referenced the grunge movement and the subculture of hip-hop in his work, which connects to youth driven element of his brand, as detailed by Vogue.com and Tim Blanks. Georgina O’Hara Callan and Cat Glover note in The Thames & Hudson Dictionary of Fashion and Fashion Designers that his namesake label has transitioned over the years from grungy, in the 90’s, to sophisticated. According to Holly Price Alford, in Who’s Who in Fashion, Jacobs has won multiple awards, with the first one having been received in 1987, which was the Perry Ellis Award for New Talent.

Gabriela Hearst

According to The Business of Fashion, while the label under her name was only originated in 2015, Gabriela Hearst started her original brand Candela during 2004. As detailed by Vogue.com’s Nicole Phelps and Maya Singer, Women’s Wear Daily, The Business of Fashion and Lauren Sherman in two articles, environmental considerations, clean construction, considerate design features, minimalist tendencies, and elements from her Uruguayan culture and upbringing characterize her namesake brand. While her designs make grand usage of neutral shades, they are also perfect helping those afraid of color to ease into slightly bolder shades with more ease and naturalness. As established by The Business of Fashion and WWD, In a short duration, her eponymous line is receiving nominations and recognition for its accomplishments.

Menswear Nominees:

Tom Ford

While Ford his namesake line, for which he is nominated under a 2018 CFDA award, his previous accolades were received well before the Tom Ford brand was launched. As of the 2014 edition of Who’s Who in Fashion, his list of previous awards was already lengthy. Please consult that work for more information on those countless achievements. As detailed by Georgina O’Hara Callan, Cat Glover, The Business of Fashion, Alistair O’Neill,  Holly Price Alford, and Anne Stegemeyer,  Ford is known for being one of the key players in the revival of Gucci’s significance and authority, during the 90’s and early 2000’s. He also provided guidance for Yves Saint Laurent and other brands under the Gucci group, before founding his own label in 2005. During his reign at Gucci, his designs were characterized by their sexual focus with strategically placed cut-outs, and garments that hung nearly hazardly from the body, making the exposure of the body nearly inevitable or guaranteed, as evidenced by Callan, Glover, and the Fashion Channel on YouTube. The Fashion Channel also notes that his looks were also known for their “...retro-70s styling….” While his designs recently produced under the Tom Ford brand , from 2017-2018, still seemingly exude a sense of exploring one’s sexuality, it is done slightly more tamely and has a very sophisticated feel. For examples of his recent works, refer to the VogueRunway.com.

Thom Browne

According to The Business of Fashion, Browne’s talent was recognized and encouraged by American designer and lifestyle icon Ralph Lauren. Prior to his own label, he has worked from Brooks Brothers, Club Monaco, and Giorgio Armani, as detailed by The Business of Fashion, Phyllis G. Tortora, and Sandra J. Keiser.  Like late designer Alexander McQueen, observed in the film The Legacy of Alexander McQueen, his work is less utilitarian and artistic interpretation of dress. Browne as exemplified by M2M.tv in their series Art of Style and short film Thom Browne: A Fashion Fairytale,  is known for looking beyond the conventional, and challenging the boundaries of attire. While tailoring and sculptural plays a key role in his looks, artistic and imaginative elements, aspects from film, and his American heritage, also often play roles in his work as well, also detailed in these works by Made to Measure. As detailed by Browne, the tales surrounding the presentations of his work, aim to enhance his designs. As detailed by Who’s Who in Fashion,  2008 Designer of Year award from GQ magazine,  National Design Award (for his work in fashion) from Cooper-Hewitt, and multiple CFDA awards have been received by Browne.

James Jebbia for Supreme

The products offered and demographic between the two brands, Hermés and Supreme, are highly dissimilar. However, based on information detailed  by The Business of Fashion and Alux.com’s YouTube Channel, Supreme shares similar sales techniques with the prestigious brand Hermés. Both brands thrive due to two aspects in their selling processes, a sense of exclusivity and the anticipation that builds up surrounding the purchases of their products. Supreme sells limited quantities of their products, which contributes to their sense of exclusivity, and the inevitable anticipation that follows such low quantities of items that have a bigger demand. While Hermés Birkin bags also are made in limited quantities, especially unique examples that only have a small amount produced, and have a supposed “waitlist,” which leads to similar responses. Beyond this observation, Supreme has also had several collaborations with highly established brands such as Louis Vuitton and Rei Kawakubo’s brand Comme des Garçons, which is impressive considering the street fashion brand’s humble start detailed by The Business of Fashion and Alux.com’s YouTube Channel. 

Watch the Fall/ Winter 2017-2018 Louis Vuitton x Supreme Collaboration Collection Here

For more information on Hermes, see the two hyperlinks attached to the brand’s name, in the above post. 

Womenswear and Menswear Nominees (Nominated for Both Categories):

Raf Simons for Calvin Klein

The work of Raf Simons for Calvin Klein and his namesake brand strikes an interesting balance, as observed on Vogue.com. There are uniting elements and contrasting examples. While tailoring is the main element of many, if not most of his looks, the way the overall execution of this constructions varies from one direction to its contrasting counterpart. Some looks are very fitted and examples of tailoring, while other variations are more slouchy and comfortable in feel, which are described by Phyllis G. Tortora and Sandra J. Keiser as “...modern proportions....” While there is use of neutral, minimalist colors, typical of the Calvin Klein brand, he strategically adds other colors in both saturated and desaturated variations. The overall feel of his collections are balance of dynamism and unity. According to The Business of Fashion, in addition to his own line, founded in 1994, Simons has previously worked for Jil Sander, from 2005 to 2012, and Dior, starting in 2012 and ending in 2015. During last year’s CFDA awards ceremony, he received the designer of year award for both the womenswear and menswear categories, for his work at Calvin Klein. Interestingly, according to Marc Karimzadeh, for the CFDA website, the only other designer to have experienced this achievement was Calvin Klein.

See examples of his work for Calvin Klein Here (Fall/Winter 2017-2018). 

Virgil Abloh for Off-White 

Virgil Abloh has shifted the role of street fashion from being an influencer to a high-end fashion brand, to being the basis and heart of a luxury line, with his label Off-White, as observed and detailed in the New York Times video “Virgil Abloh is Saving Luxury With T-Shirts / In the Studio.” He essentially has reversed the traditional fashion idea generation steps to design process. According to Abloh, also noted in this video, he adds ideas from couture and higher level ready-to-wear, into the base of street themed attire. However, according to Highsnobiety, his ventures into fashion began prior to the launch of Off-White. His earlier presence in fashion included a quick selling, T-Shirts featuring the Colette name, a retailer based in Paris, connected to jewelry imagery reminiscent of the hip-hop subculture, also detailed by Highsnobiety. One of his highly noteworthy experiences, was his internship with the luxury fashion house Fendi, in the year 2009, also detailed by Highsnobiety. According to The Business of Fashion, his other experiences in fashion include the founding of his first label Pyrex Vision, owning a gallery and boutique facility RSVP Gallery, and working for rapper and Yeezy fashion designer Kanye West. Now, he is set to serve as the artistic director for the menswear collections of Louis Vuitton, also detailed by The Business of Fashion. Overall, as demonstrated in the previously detailed sources and his collections, seen on Vogue.com, Abloh has essentially expanded the definition of what streetwear can constitute, further enhancing its presence and relevance in fashion, in the luxury sector. 

See the fascinating Interview with the New York Times video “Virgil Abloh is Saving Luxury With T-Shirts / In the Studio” Here.

For a complete list of nominees, and winners that have already been determined, read on here.

Vector Image Designed by FreePik

Sources Consulted and For Additional Information:

“15 Things You Didn’t Know About Supreme.” YouTube, uploaded by Alux.com, 6 Aug. 2017, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p45kpQ_OoIg&t=221s. Accessed 3 June, 2018. 

Alford, Holly Price and Anne Stegemeyer. Who’s Who in Fashion. New York and London: Fairchild Publications, 2014. Print. (Marc Jacobs on page 184; Tom Ford on page 145; Thom Browne on page 55).

Blanks, Tim. “Ready-to-wear - Autumn 2017 Marc Jacobs: At Marc Jacobs, Respect on the Streets,” The Business of Fashion, 16 Feb. 2017, https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/fashion-show-review/just-in-marc-jacobs-autumnwinter-2017. Accessed 1 June, 2018.

Callan, Georgina O’Hara and Cat Glover. The Thames & Hudson Dictionary of Fashion and Fashion Designers. New York: Thames & Hudson, 2008. Print. (Marc Jacobs page 138; Tom Ford on page 109). 

“Calvin Klein 205W39NYC.” Vogue, Condé Nast, n.d., https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/designer/calvin-klein, 3 June, 2018.

CFDA Editors. “Ashley Olsen (Member Profile).” CFDA, n.d., https://cfda.com/members/profile/ashley-olsen#!, Accessed 1 June, 2018.   

CFDA Editors. “CFDA Fashion Awards in Partnership with Swarovski 2015 Winners CFDA Awards.” CFDA, 2015, https://cfda.com/cfda-fashion-awards/2015#!. Accessed 1 June, 2018. 

CFDA Editors. “CFDA Fashion Awards in partnership with Swarovski: 2018 Nominees CFDA Awards.” CFDA, 2018, https://cfda.com/cfda-fashion-awards#! , Accessed 3 June 2018.

Fogg, Marnie and Jonathan Saunders. Fashion Design Directory. New York: Firefly Books, 2011. Print. (Marc Jacobs pages 196-197).

Haines, Ashley. “How the Hermes Birkin Bag Reached Icon Status.” Hypebae, Hypebeast Limited, 17 June, 2016,https://hypebae.com/2016/6/history-of-hermes-jane-birkin-bag, Accessed 4 June, 2018. 

Harper’s Bazaar Staff.” CFDA Awards 2014: The Winners!” Harper’s Bazaar, Hearst, 3 June, 2014. https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a2466/cfda-awards-2014-winners-list/, Accessed 1 June, 2018. 

Idacavage, Sara. “Fashion History Lesson: The Iconic Hermes Birkin.” Fashionista, Breaking Media Inc., 17 June, 2016, https://fashionista.com/2016/06/birkin-bag-history-jane-hermes. Accessed 4 June, 2018.

Iredale, Jessica. “The Female Power of Gabriela Hearst.” Women’s Wear Daily, Penske Media Corporation, 19 Mar. 2018, http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/gabriela-hearst-luxury-american-designer-cfda-1202630940/, Accessed 3 June, 2018. 

Karimzadeh, Marc. “The 2017 CFDA Fashion Awards Winners!” CFDA, 6 June, 2017, https://cfda.com/news/the-2017-cfda-fashion-awards-winners#!, 3 June, 2018.

“Off-White.” Vogue, Condé Nast, n.d., https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/designer/off-white, 3 June, 2018.

O’Neill, Alistair. “Ford, Tom.” The Berg Companion to Fashion, edited by Valerie Steele, Berg, 2010, pp. 348-349.

Phelps, Nicole. “Fall 2017 Ready-to-wear Gabriela Hearst.” Vogue, Condé Nast, 14 Feb. 2017, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/gabriela-hearst, Accessed 3 June, 2018.

Phelps, Nicole. “Fall 2016 Ready-to-wear Gabriela Hearst.” Vogue, Condé Nast, 12 Feb. 2016, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-ready-to-wear/gabriela-hearst, Accessed 3 June, 2018. 

Phelps, Nicole, “Resort 2017 Gabriela Hearst.” Vogue, Condé Nast, 2 June, 2016,https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2017/gabriela-hearst, Accessed 3 June, 2018.

Phelps, Nicole. “Spring 2017 Ready-to-wear Gabriela Hearst.” Vogue, Condé Nast, 13 Sept., 2016. https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2017-ready-to-wear/gabriela-hearst. Accessed 3 June, 2018.

Phelps, Nicole. “Spring 2016 Ready-to-Wear Gabriela Hearst.” Vogue, Condé Nast, 11 Sept. 2015,https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/gabriela-hearst. Accessed 3 June, 2018.

Phelps, Nicole. “Resort 2018 Gabriela Hearst.” Vogue, Condé Nast, 5 June, 2017,https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2018/gabriela-hearst. Accessed 3 June, 2018. 

Pieri, Kerry. “CFDA Awards 2012: The Winners!” Harper’s Bazaar, Hearst, 4 June, 2018,  https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a8051/cfda-awards-2012-winners-list-060412/, Accessed 1 June, 2018. 

“Raf Simons.” Vogue, Condé Nast, n.d., https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/designer/raf-simons, 3 June, 2018.

Sherman, Lauren. “Ready-to-wear- Autumn 2018 Gabriela Hearst: Living the Gabriela Hearst Life.” The Business of Fashion, 13 Feb. 2018, https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/fashion-show-review/living-the-gabriela-hearst-life, Accessed 3 June, 2018.

Sherman, Lauren. “Ready-to-wear- Spring 2018 Gabriela Hearst: At Gabriela Hearst, You Get What You Pay For.” The Business of Fashion, 13 Sept. 2017, https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/fashion-show-review/at-gabriela-hearst-you-get-what-you-pay-for, Accessed 3 June, 2018.

Singer, Maya. “Resort 2016 Gabriela Hearst.” Vogue, Condé Nast, 10 June, 2015, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2016/gabriela-hearst, Accessed 3 June, 2018. 

The Business of Fashion Editors, “Gabriela Hearst: Biography.” The Business of Fashion, n.d., https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/gabriela-hearst-1, Accessed 3 June, 2018.

Business of Fashion Editors. “ James Jebbia Biography.” The Business of Fashion., n.d.,https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/james-jebbia, Accessed 3 June, 2018.

The Business of Fashion Editors. “Raf Simons Biography.” The Business of Fashion, n.d., https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/raf-simons, Accessed 3 June, 2018. 

The Business of Fashion Editors, “ Tom Ford Biography.”  The Business of Fashion, n.d., https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/tom-ford, Accessed 3 June, 2018.

The Business of Fashion Editors, “Thom Browne Biography.” The Business of Fashion, n.d., https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/thom-browne, Accessed 3 June, 2018.

The Business of Fashion Editors. “Biography: Virgil Abloh.” The Business of Fashion, n.d., https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/virgil-abloh, 3 June, 2018. 

Tortora, Phyllis G. and Sandra J. Keiser. The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Fashion. New York and London: Fairchild Publications, 2014. Print.  (Simons, Raf on page 467; Browne, Thom on page 444).

Vogue.com Editors. “Marc Jacobs.” Vogue, Condé Nast, n.d., https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/designer/marc-jacobs, Accessed 3 June 2018.

Wilson, Eric. ‘Marc Jacobs on Hip Hop and Charges of Cultural Appropriation: “’Maybe I’ve Been Insensitive.’”’ InStyle, Meredith Corporation, 7 Aug. 2017, http://www.instyle.com/fashion/marc-jacobs-hip-hop-icons, Accessed 3 June 2018. 

Zerbo, Julie. “ARCHIVE: How Did Mary-Kate, Ashley Olsen Go from Celebrities to Legitimate Fashion Forces?” The Fashion Law, 1 Aug. 2016, http://www.thefashionlaw.com/home/how-did-mary-kate-ashley-olsen-go-from-child-stars-to-legitimate-designers?rq=Mary-Kate%20and%20Ashley, Accessed 1 June, 2018.

“GUCCI by Tom Ford 1995- 2004 by Fashion Channel.” YouTube, uploaded by Fashion Channel, 30 July, 2016, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EgtydvShwvs&t=2s, Accessed 4 June, 2018.

“The Legacy of Alexander McQueen.” Made to Measure (M2M.tv), uploaded by Made to Measure (M2M), n.d.,  https://m2m.tv/watch/the-legacy-of-alexander-mcqueen/films, 4 June, 2018.

“Art of Style: Thom Browne.” Made to Measure (M2M.tv), uploaded by Made to Measure (M2M), n.d., https://m2m.tv/watch/art-of-style-thom-browne/art-of-style, 4 June, 2018.

“Film: Thom Browne: A Fashion Fairytale.” Made to Measure (M2M.tv), uploaded by Made to Measure (M2M), n.d.,https://m2m.tv/watch/thom-browne-a-fashion-fairytale/films, 4 June, 2018.

“Virgil Abloh is Saving Luxury With T-Shirts - In the Studio.” YouTube, uploaded by New York Times, 28 Sept. 2017, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzZsGeyg3Kw, 4 June, 2018.

“Everything You Need to Know About Virgil Abloh.” YouTube, uploaded by Highsnobiety, 29 Jan., 2018, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-wiH7k1iiA&t=20s, 4 June, 2018.

“Louis Vuitton- Fall Winter 2017/2018 Full Fashion Show- Menswear.” YouTube, uploaded by FF Channel, 19 Jan. 2017, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=speYFnMC8Mg, 4 June, 2018.

“Calvin Klein- Fall Winter 2017/2018 Full Fashion Show-Exclusive.” YouTube, uploaded by FF Channel, 10 Feb. 2017, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtRBQEYfIy0&t=30s, 4 June, 2018.

“The Row Fall Winter 2010 Runway.” YouTube, uploaded by The Row Official, 18 Feb. 2010, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgZAc2cM9xM, 4 June, 2018.

“Marc Jacobs - The Story of.” YouTube, uploaded by Marc Jacobs - Fashion TV, 5 Aug. 2013, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T9Xg9CvCvqw, 4 June, 2018.

“Sustainability: The New Luxury with Gabriela Hearst- MatchesFashion.com.” YouTube, uploaded by Matchesfashion.com, 25 May, 2017, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAmOt01Qp3A, 4 June,2018.

“Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2016.17- Men’s Looks- New York Fashion Week. ” YouTube, uploaded by Male Model Corp 3, 8 Sept. 2016, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XDWSSgTO5fI, 4 June, 2018.

“Full Episode - Art of Style: Thom Browne.” YouTube, uploaded by M2M-Made to Measure, 9 Apr. 2018, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnP_7ZsIxaA, 4 June, 2018.

“The Row Fall Winter 2010 Runway” 

Source: The Row Official YouTube Channel. 

“Marc Jacobs- The Story Of”

Source: Marc Jacobs/ FashionTV YouTube Channel

“Sustainability” The New Luxury with Gabriela Hearst / MATCHESFASHION.COM”

Source: MATCHESFASHION YouTube Channel 

“Tom Ford Fall/Winter 2016.17 / Men’s Looks / New York Fashion Week”

Source: Male Model Corp 3 YouTube Channel 

“Full Episode- Art of Style: Thom Browne”

Source: M2M YouTube Channel