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The highly-versatile Mosko Nomad tank bag offers multiple organization layers, compartments and expansion options, complemented by a convenient hydration system that can be accessed on the fly while the bag is on your bike or back. Follow the link to check out how it performed!
#dualsport#dual sport#adventurebike#adventure motorcycle#adventure touring#adventuremotorcycle#Adventure Bike#Mosko Moto#Tank Bag#Soft Luggage#Adventure Bike Luggage
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With the kindness of strangers, they were able to escape.
“They were taken in by strangers, even housed in a barn along the route of their escape.”
They were refugees, fleeing for their safety, fleeing for their lives, trying to find a new life.
The war-torn country they were living in had been invaded, and they knew they had to get out.
Fortunately, according to the National Endowment for the Humanities, the couple were able to obtain Brazilian passports.
Others trying to escape to the United States, like Anne Frank and her family never made it that far, according to the History Channel, hindered by “American bias against accepting . . . refugees”, which halted most immigration from Europe.
But, first they had to get out.
“On May 10, 1940, Adolf Hitler sent three million troops through the Low Countries into France, according to the Smithsonian. “Parisians fled by the hundreds of thousands before the Germans captured their city on June 14. Among them a young couple, German Jews who had been living in Paris for just four years. They had waited too long. There wasn’t a car or a bicycle left in the city. The husband bought every spare part he could find and built two bikes from scratch. At 5:30 on the morning of June 12, they rode out of Paris with a monkey hidden in the basket.”
Although the couple had previously owned two marmoset monkeys, they did not have an actual live monkey in their basket.
Writer Sarah Stewart Taylor explains further, after the couple got aboard the train:
Hans Reyersbach and his wife, Margarete Waldstein “tried to remain calm as the official came through the train car packed with refugees fleeing Nazi-occupied France and asked for identity papers. When the official saw the stacks of papers inside Hans’s bag, he became immediately suspicious.
“But when Hans . . . pulled out a manuscript for a children’s book entitled ‘The Adventures of Fifi’ . . . the official smiled and passed them by.
“Nearly a year later, after a harrowing wartime escape and journey to the United States”, the couple were able to publish their book ��about a mischievous and curious monkey who was always getting into trouble.”
Immigrants Hans Reyersbach and his wife, Margarete Waldstein, used pen names and changed the monkey’s name. Their pen names were H. A. and Margret Rey and the monkey’s name was changed per their publisher to reflect a more American name. “Curious George” would become “one of the most popular children’s books of the 20th century.”
This is a new story for the Peace Page.
~~~~~
According to Taylor, “The Reys were living in Paris when World War II began on September 1, 1939. As news of the Nazis’ advance through Belgium and Holland reached Paris, the Reys began to accept that, as German Jews, they were in danger and would have to leave their adopted country. They were able to secure updated Brazilian passports and collect what they would need for the trip.”
“The Reys boarded a train for Spain in Orleans, France on June 14, 1940, the day the Nazis marched into Paris. On June 23, they arrived in Lisbon. Three months later, after a stay in Rio de Janeiro to secure visas, the Reys arrived in New York. They would live the rest of their lives in their adopted country.”
“The Reys were taken in by strangers, even housed in a barn along the route of their escape. They arrived in New York with almost no money, with their main luggage gone,” according to Rivka Galchen of The New Yorker.
“Little was publicly known about the Reys’ wartime experiences until a 2005 book, ‘The Journey That Saved Curious George,’ written by Louise Borden and illustrated by Allan Drummond. A journal entry of H. A. Rey’s from 1940 included in that book tells us something of Hans’s temperament: Work was going “very slowly on account of events,” he noted, of the week the Nazis breached the French border. A letter of intent to publish ‘Curious George’ from the English publisher Chatto & Windus specifies plans to publish the book barring any international ‘incident involving force majeur.’ And later, a 1944 New Year’s card written from New York reads, ‘Let us think of the future; that’s where we shall spend the rest of our lives.’”
~~~~~
“So far 75 million copies of the Curious George books have been sold worldwide in over a dozen languages,” according to writer Jeff MacGregor.
“You can find the day-to-day, even hour-by-hour notations of their escape in Hans’ meticulous notebooks, saved at the University of Southern Mississippi, in a collection that bears the couple’s pen names: H. A. and Margret Rey.”
“A series of lectures and programs sponsored by the Rey Center and the New Hampshire Humanities Council has put the Reys and their work in the larger context of American history and children’s literature, focusing on U.S. immigration policy,” according to the National Endowment for the Humanities.
“The Wartime Escape: Margret and H. A. Rey’s Journey from France” has attracted a lot of national attention, says Audrey Eisenhauer, executive director of the Rey Center. “This has opened it up to the world,” says Louise Borden of the exhibit. “It has let people know about these perilous times and made them imagine a world without Curious George.”
~ jsr
"Small acts of kindness can make a big difference in someone's life."
The Jon S. Randal Peace Page
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Today on BikeBound.com: CONTINENT CRUSHER: Yamaha Ténéré 700 from @ettomotorcycles, built for client Chris Wilson who rode his original XT600Z Ténéré more than 72,000 km (~45,000 miles) across Australia in the 1980s. Chris asked Ian Davis of @ettomotorcycles to build him a modern incarnation of his original modified Ténéré: “I want you to turn it into a replica of my bike I took to Oz, including a 30 Litre tank, racks front and back, with capacity to carry two 20 litre Jerry cans.” With a bespoke exoskeleton of hand-built luggage racks, massive hand-built 8-gallon tank, high-power lighting, upgraded suspension and wheels, a full suite of navigation aids, and a lovely retro livery, this Ténéré 700 won’t just bring back memories of crossing the Outback on two wheels, it’s ready to bring Chris on whatever new adventures he can cook up! Full story / gallery today on ⚡️BikeBound.com⚡️ ——— #tenere #ténéré #tenere700 #yamahatenere #yamahatenere700 #xt600 #xt600z #yamahat7 #yamahat700 #advrider #advbike #adventurebike #dualsportadv #scrambler #rallybike #rallybikes #custombike #handbuilt #motorcycletravel #advbiker #ettomotorcycles #bikebound via Instagram https://instagr.am/p/DAqaB8sOcGs/
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Getting there…November 2024
Wohoo!!! Here we go again!
1017 days. That’s the last time I sat at Heathrow Terminal 5, when I sacked my employers, jumped in the car and bolted to South America on a wing and a prayer. The drama filled days that preceded that trip are happily behind me. What a holiday, cos let’s face it, that’s what it was! I came home 131 days later, still having no clue what I’d do next. I always promised myself that having chosen to be a young mum, I’d do what most people do when the fledglings had flown. So that’s what I did!
As my next career plan hadn’t yet solidified, I started a job in the autumn of 2022 was as pants as the previous, only a different colour, style and fabric, but pants nonetheless. I had another soul-destroying 3-month notice period inflicted on me, and on finishing, had the long-anticipated bi-compartmental knee replacement to rebalance the metal in me, became a freelance consultant, resumed my sports and remedial therapy business and tried to adapt to a new world where cycling no longer featured.
I still have the same number of teeth but I have replaced the metal in that tooth with 4 different kinds of implants in my knee. My jaw has collapsed and I am very much looking forward to a Hannibal Lecter mouthguard when I get home. I have a fracture in my left metacarpal sustained after a freak bullseye hit from an industrial sized luggage strap buckle on it before an event. And luckily, what felt like a popped rib, sustained after my regular daily session of Greco-Roman Wrestling has calmed down. As caring about the weight of my bike and bags is no longer a topic of discussion (I am no longer fast and light, rather slow and heavy) I’ve bought with me hoarded drugs of all kinds and around 200 needles to get stuck into should the urge take me. Otherwise, not much has changed!
The body is an amazing pile of cells. It’s 8 months since I last cried about my knee, whilst it seems it will always hurt and never be good, it probably won’t get any better and hopefully won’t get any worse. On balance, there’s plenty of awful things that happen to people and in terms of knees, I’m just the first in a long line of my network who are likely to be getting similar at some point. The knee now marks my 12th operation since 2006! Still just about standing 😄
Which leads me to here. I’m sat in São Paulo, watching the world go by at Aeroporto Internacional de Guarulhos on a dull and wet day, only different from home because it’s warmer and people are not speaking English. Later today, I’ll lie in my apartment and listen to the tropical birds as they serenade each other. This is, after all, right on the edge of the Amazon (i like to think so anyway!). I’ll make a friend of my taxi driver again, this time, Rodriguez, and this time I’ll attempt pigeon Portuguese. He’ll tell me how the roads are flooded and the F1 Grand Prix was delayed. Keane will play on the radio and I’ll tell him I sat next to their producer and that the whole band and entourage were on my flight. Ace!
I stink, as I’ve been dragging round my adventure steed for nearly 24 hours. Martini’s a titanium adventure bike and much to my disgust, has a pannier rack and panniers (Olive and Espresso) tucked away in the mountain bike cardboard box which adorns her, covered in “FRAGILE” tape and weighing in at 22.5kg fully loaded. I upsized her tyres from 32 to 35, then 38 and finally 42c. They now weigh a massive 518 grams each! My additional travel companions are here too: there’s my old faithfuls, my Antler Star Wars Suitcase (think storm trooper) and Monkey 2, my old backpack which has come with me to Greece, across the Americas and around Wales. They’ll both shortly meet their maker as the bike box is cut into little pieces, at the point when I finally will have figured out where I’m going to begin this adventure. It’s fair to say that this trip, I am completely self-sufficient to the point I can even start a fire using steel and flint. That could be fun! The most exciting edition to this trip is the camera and two lenses. They are the heaviest items I’m carrying so I’ll have to do them some justice.
I decided on the plane that my personal transformation is complete. I’ve convinced myself I look like a bad ass ninja explorer, in black zip off trousers, black merino t-shirt and merino hoodie and to finish off the look, black merino socks. Nobody is going to mess with me. That is more attributable to being older so even less of a target for the supposed opportunistic bandits hanging out on every corner of Patagonia. There was definitely a time I dressed up to travel but alas, those times are gone. Whilst I have more clothing with me than last trip, that’s only by one t-shirt, an extra pair of knickers and a bikini. But 47 days of the same clothes! It’s not really befitting of a lady from Windsor who went to a convent (spell check just corrected that to concentration camp 😂).
I’m only in São Paulo because I first thought I’d ride Brazll. Chile kept calling me, haunting me as I’d not been able to get in during 2022 due to their IT systems and COVID. The impact of this indecision is I sit, waiting 6 hours now to get into an apartment where I’ll hang out until early tomorrow, when I’ll either jump on a plane, either to Santiago or Puerto Montt.
The hesitation around those plans is that the weather from Puerto Montt south until further notice looks like the end of the world (I guess it would because it is!). I’m not thrilled about the extreme likelihood of being completely wet through for 2 weeks, camping and riding through deep mud on unpaved roads the length of the UK. It seems torturous that just a hop, skip and jump across the Andes back into my old friend Argentina, the Patagonian desert is bone dry, windy yes, but also 25 degrees! It’s fair to say that as I sit here pontificating, it could go one of 4 ways. I’ve not lost my ability to wing it even if I’ve lost my fitness. Yes, everything will be okay!
My next biggest worry is which virus is likely to get me. I don’t know what it is about airports but I seem to attract travellers who sit down next to me and leak snot from every orifice. Do they sit down and quietly dispose of it into a tissue? No. They chug it down, project it in all directions and snort as if no one’s listening. I feel for them, I really do. Just go somewhere else. Perhaps that they want to let everyone know how unwell they are. Or to make others suffer “I’m about to have a shitty time on my trip, so come join me in my misery”. It happened at Heathrow and now again here. I wouldn’t mind but they seem to come find me. Why? And as if on queue, my ears detect I’m sat in infested corner…time to move…
For today and to this end, much like the last trip, I’ll get to my apartment, listen to the sounds of the city, the rain gently falling as tyres cut through puddles on the noisy street below. Sirens will erupt and accentuate the rhythm of the city. I’ll pick up my Spanish lessons and as I fall to sleep, mull over what the heck I’m going to do tomorrow.
In the morning, I’ll surreptitiously manoeuvre between duty free make up counters, slather up on moisturiser and perfume, and lament the time that will pass until I see them again. Victoria’s Secret will look down on me in disgust as I pass wearing one of the two pairs of knickers that will be my closest friends tor 7 weeks. I’ll know that I will definitely make it to Santiago but Puerto Montt? Who bloody knows? 😄
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September 16 to 19
Budapest to Krakow ( Almost )
Greetings from Ostrava Czech Republic
Dear little Mosey:
Sometimes when I wake up I never know what’s going to happen. That’s why it’s good to plan but be ready if things go differently.
The weather has been very very rainy. The rivers are swollen. I saw a great tree floating down the Danube River. The water was the color of chocolate.
I think the last letter was when we were leaving the Budapest train station in Hungary bound for Krakow Poland four hours away. It was supposed to have one stop.
It did indeed have one stop. There was a rumor was that a bus was to take passages around flooded parts of the tracks to the next station. There was much confusion. The storms were too great for even the big and powerful trains. It was still raining. These guys tried to find out the plan but everything was changing very quickly.
In the small crowded station people tried to get information but the lady only spoke in a strange language through a small hole behind some glass. I could tell it was starting to feel like a real adventure. The kind you didn’t know what could happen next.
Outside there was one bus but there were two buses worth of people and luggage. The driver also spoke in a language that no one understood. He was all wet. People were asking him questions but I don’t think he knew the answers. Even if he did they may not have understood. He was a big man with a white shirt on.
One couple, a man from Poland and a woman from Russia, had bikes like me. Everyone was standing in the rain when the first bus left.
Luckily we found we could get a taxi. But the driver didn’t like the idea of trying to put a bike in there much less three people and luggage. He spoke the Czech language too. But I was able to get him to think it was a good idea to put my bike, your great grand step mother and your step grandmother in the car. He even held an umbrella while I took the wheels off my bike. He got soaked too. It was all very refreshing.
Here is a picture of us in the car. I apologize but I always forget to take pictures when I’m in the middle of an adventure.
We decided to drive to the next bigger town which was about 100 miles away. But even some of the major highways were closed.
We got to the town and got a comfy little hotel. We gave the taxi driver some extra for all of his help. By the end of our ride we felt like friends.
It was an excellent adventure and I woke up in a country and town that I never thought I would visit. It may have been one of the best parts so far.
The next day we caught a bus and continued to Krakow. I was able to put my bike underneath.
It was a smooth and beautiful journey to a really neat old city.
Hope you are good little buddy.
Love you
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15. The Camping Trip, part 1.
It is early Friday morning. We've all taken a long weekend off so we have plenty of time to find the hermit.
Bonehilda disappeared the day after Loki summoned her, so he has to do the dishes himself.
"Come on, Loki, it's time to go!"
Nea drives us up to Granite Falls. Her car is packed with camping gear, supplies and Loki's luggage. So much luggage...
It starts raining as we arrive at Granite Falls.
Kitty and I set up camp.
The rain doesn't stop Loki and Nea from having a water balloon fight!
Loki misses...
Very mature, Nea!
Nea doesn't! (I'm sure she'll pay the price for that later!)
Kitty and I finish setting up camp.
Why does Loki need so much luggage? He's a ghost!
The weather keeps changing and the sun comes out for a while. Granite Falls is a big area to cover, so I rented mountain bikes for us.
After practising around the camp for a while, we head off.
We head to the information kiosk.
There is no convenient marker for "hermit" on the map.
Loki and Nea cycle around while Kitty and I try to decide where to look first.
"I really don't know. My sister and I used to look for the hermit, but we never found him," Kitty explains.
There's nothing for it but to keep exploring the woods.
We stop by the lake. "I sense nothing mystical or magical in nature here," Loki says. "We'll have to head deeper into the woods.
We decide to leave our bikes behind and continue on foot.
"I've seen Youtube videos about bears fishing before," Nea says to Kitty, "but this is the first time I've seen one use a fishing rod!"
Loki keeps a brisk pace, we have to run to keep up with him. Soon we are lagging behind.
"We should have brought rollerskates," I say to Kitty. We could have tied a rope around Loki's waist and just let him pull us along."
It is getting dark and the weather is getting worse...
So we head back to camp.
I barbeque some chicken skewers...
...while Loki lights the campfire.
After dinner, Loki entertains us with a story about his past adventures.
From the look on my face here, I don't believe a word he's saying!
We go to sleep early. perhaps the next day we'll find the hermit!
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Revving Up: North American Debut of the Royal Enfield Shotgun 650
Introduction
The motorcycle industry in North America is abuzz with anticipation, and at the heart of this excitement lies the Royal Enfield Shotgun 650. As the latest addition to the market, this factory-custom bobber promises to redefine classic motorcycling. Let’s dive into the details and explore what makes the Shotgun 650 a standout choice for riders across the continent.
Overview of the Royal Enfield Shotgun 650
The Shotgun 650 is more than just a motorcycle; it’s a canvas for self-expression. With its modular design, it seamlessly transforms from a single-seater to a double-seater or even a luggage-carrying tourer. But that’s not all—its four unique colorways draw inspiration from the culture of customization, allowing builders and beginners alike to make their mark.
Underneath its unshakable steel spine lies a proven 648cc parallel-twin engine. Designed for real-world usage, it boasts a strong mid-range and ample torque across the gears. The Shotgun 650 embodies Royal Enfield’s pure motorcycling DNA while breaking free from convention. Neo-modern aesthetics, modular capabilities, and striking colors set it apart from the crowd.
Launch in North America
Why North America? Royal Enfield’s decision to introduce the Shotgun 650 here speaks volumes about the region’s growing interest in classic and vintage-inspired motorcycles. Riders across the continent crave authenticity, and the Shotgun 650 delivers just that. Keep an eye out for promotional events and campaigns that will further ignite the excitement surrounding this remarkable bike.
Target Audience
Who is the Shotgun 650 designed for? It caters to a diverse audience:
Motorcycle Enthusiasts: Those who appreciate craftsmanship, heritage, and the thrill of the open road.
Adventure Seekers: Riders yearning for exploration, whether it’s a winding mountain pass or a coastal highway.
Style-Performance Blend: The Shotgun 650 appeals to seasoned riders seeking classic aesthetics and newcomers eager to experience the joy of motorcycling.
Comparison with Competitors
How does the Shotgun 650 stack up against its peers? Let’s briefly compare:
Price: Competitive pricing makes the Shotgun 650 an attractive proposition.
Performance: Its 648cc engine delivers a punchy 46.3bhp at 7250rpm and a peak torque of 52.3Nm at 5650rpm.
Design: Classic styling meets modern bobber aesthetics, striking a balance that turns heads.
Riding Experience and Reviews
Don’t take our word for it—listen to those who’ve ridden the Shotgun 650. Reviews and testimonials highlight its comfortable handling, smooth ride, and impressive performance. Whether you’re navigating city traffic or exploring scenic routes, the Shotgun 650 promises an unforgettable experience.
Conclusion
Conclusion
In closing, the Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 isn’t just a motorcycle; it’s a declaration of passion for the open road. As it makes its mark on North American terrain, it beckons riders to embrace tradition while stepping boldly into the future. Get ready to ignite your spirit of adventure with the Shotgun 650—a true embodiment of freedom on two wheels.
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Adventuresses Like Phryne
Last month, we talked about the Van Buren sisters and their legendary transcontinental motorcycle trip in 1916. As impressive as their feat was, they weren’t the first women to cross the US by motorcycle.
That distinction belongs to Adventuresses Effie and Avis Hotchkiss, who did it in 1915.
Effie Hotchkiss was a young woman ahead of her time. She learned to ride and fix motorcycles when she was 16. At 18, she was working on Wall Street, something almost unheard of at the time.
But she still craved adventure – she wanted to be the first woman to cross the US on a bike. The 1915 World’s Fair in San Francisco gave her that chance. On May 2, 1915, she set off from Brooklyn on her Harley-Davidson 11-F with her mother, Avis, in the sidecar.
“We merely wanted to see America and considered that the three-speed Harley-Davidson for myself, and sidecar for mother and the luggage best suited for the job.” Effie said.
The roads were challenging, to say the least, often little more than dirt paths – until the rain came, and they became mud pits. The roads took their toll on the duo’s tires. They would eventually run out of replacement inner-tubes and had to resort to cutting and rolling up a blanket to repair a flat.
In spite of the conditions, Avis never lost confidence in her daughter. "I do not fear breakdowns. For Effie, being a most careful driver, is a good mechanic and does her own repairing with her own tools."
She was also a good shot, which proved necessary for their less than friendly encounters with coyotes and rattlesnakes.
The pair reached San Francisco and the Fair in August 1915. They made their way to the beach and poured the jar of Atlantic seawater they’d carried from New York into the Pacific Ocean. Then, they turned around and drove home.
They completed their 9,000-mile adventure in October 1915. In 2022, 107 years after the trip, Effie Hotchkiss was inducted into the American Motorcycle Association’s Hall of Fame.
#adventuress #adventuresses #AdventuressesWeLove #motorcycle #harley #harley-davidson
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Bolivia: Death Road Bike Ride
Since it seemed like the "thing to do" while in La Paz, Bolivia - I'd signed myself up for the Death Road downhill bike ride without expecting too much. I met up with the group in central La Paz to have breakfast at Cafe del Mundo which was some bread with jam, a bowl of fruit, juice, smoothie, and a cappuccino. Our guides Gustavo and Marco introduced themselves and our driver Guillermo as we drove out of the city and up towards our starting point for the ride. The group was just six tourists; myself and a couple from Wellington, a guy from Canada, and a French lady/German man couple. Once at the start we were assigned our bikes - mine was the horse with no name, and given our helmets, gloves and protective pants and jackets. We had a short practice ride on the bikes over to the toilets and then we started down the sealed road. At the first viewpoint Marco took photos of us all and Gustavo told us there was a dead dog on the road ahead "so try not to look at it, try not to smell it". Wonderful. The road was wide and traffic avoided us so the first 30km or so on this sealed road was great, not a worry at all! Gustavo told us to get low on the handlebars so that we could go faster but I was already going so fast just from the gravity that I didn't need to. We reached a point where the road went into a tunnel, and bikes aren't allowed to ride there so we took our first sip of the off-road adventure and rode down a gravelly section alongside the tunnel where I almost ate it as my wheel skidded out from under me but managed to recover. The next section was uphill for about 9km so we rode up in the van to where the entrance sign is for Death Road. After taking our photos with it we rode the first 2km down to a little village with a viewpoint. The French lady was freaking out a bit by this point as we started to see the fog clearing and the tiny road 3m wide snaking around these huge mountains with a drop of hundreds of metres below came into view. The guides convinced her to keep going and we rode on, about 2km each time and then regrouping. Each section we biked, Gustavo would give us a warning like "be careful this is the most dangerous section" or "watch out for the waterfall, tourists have died going over the side right there" so of course we weren't nervous at all... The most recent death being a month ago also didn't sit well. On the last section before our snack break Gustavo pointed out again the "most dangerous section" where 4 tourists had died going over the side by going left instead of right at a pile of rocks on the road. As I passed the pile I wondered how on earth anyone could think there was enough room to go left there! We took a break for a sandwich, chips and coke and then carried on to a little cafeteria building on the hillside where some of the group did the zipline. I bought an ice cream and removed a few layers as it was starting to warm up a lot. From here we had to do a bit of uphill, but then it levelled out and carried on downhill where we reached a huge landslide. The van couldn't follow us anymore and had to go all the way back and take another road down to the bottom. We carried our bikes through the landslide section and then continued on through some dusty dry roads as temperatures heated up the closer we got to sea level. We splashed through some shallow rivers and came to a stop at a village on a bridge, then Guillermo drove us to La Senda Verde where our pasta lunch was waiting for us, as well as a couple boisterous dogs, and a fluffy cat that fell asleep on some luggage. The rest of the group went on a short tour of the sanctuary and then we left to drive back to La Paz. As we climbed in elevation again the conditions turned very foggy and it was impossible to see the road. Guillermo frantically wiped the windscreen with a cloth so he could see the centreline road marking that guided us for about half an hour since we couldn't see a thing. Despite the heavy fog, drivers continue to pass us and narrowly miss oncoming traffic. Somehow we made it back in one piece, and lived to tell the tale!
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Calm at the Boca do Inferno
If there is one area in which Portugal is lacking, it would be in the concept of left luggage lockers. There are very, very few places in the country that even have lockers. Of that limited number, some were "out of order" forcing a reconfiguring of plans and all were ridiculously expensive. This was not Central Europe where I could toss a backpack in for a couple euro. 6,50€ every time I needed to be backpack free for a few hours.
But I didn't know that at the time. I decided to do a quick stop in Cascais on the way to Sintra. I could take a train out to Cascais along the river and then a bus up to Sintra. Simple. I only wanted to see two things in Cascais anyway: Praça 5 de Outubro (main square with amazing tile work) and the Boca do Inferno.
The square was close to the train station as were the other random things I located in Cascais. Boca do Inferno? That's a 2km walk. One way. And I didn't want to do it with my big backpack. So I was relieved that Cascais is one of the few locations where lockers could be found. A tiny well of lockers off to the side of the train station, next to what I would discover was basically the only grocery store in Cascais. Seriously, no idea where people shop in this city. I walked through three different options and they were souvenir shops. All I wanted was some drinkable yogurt, deli meat, and cheese. Pack in some protein after walking 4km.
I digress. Luggage tucked away, I ran across the street to double check bus times to Sintra and then walked down to the square before heading out to Hell's Mouth (Boca do Inferno).
I put all my Czech speed walking skills to good use and quickly made it out to the arch. The entire walk was along a beautiful bike path that stretches quite a bit further up the coast.
Now, I had looked up tides for when I would be up in Nazaré, but I hadn't connected the dots on how if three days from now, shortly after noon is low tide, today, just before noon will be low tide. A very, very calm low tide.
My misty morning walk in Alfama ended earlier than anticipated, moving my entire schedule up a bit. Having made it to my main destination, I knew I had time for adventure. The whole way out to Boca do Inferno, I kept seeing stairs cut down to the cliffs over the ocean. If there are stairs, clearly people are meant to use them. And as one who loves jumping out of windows and finding her own path (China, Montenegro, Arizona), I wanted to climb down these stairs and head out to the cliffs over the ocean. I mean, they took the time to make the stairs. Clearly they should be used.
Boca seen. Stairs and cliffs explored. Protein located at the train station grocery store. I realized I could grab an earlier bus to Sintra which meant more time to explore Quinta da Regaleira. I collected everything and dashed across the street to the bus station.
5 minutes til the bus comes.
Ok. It should come now.
Ok. 5 min ago it was supposed to come.
I eyed all the bus numbers coming into the station and saw the alternate option to Sintra. I was planning on taking the shorter 30min bus through the mountains rather than the longer 60min bus along the coast. But if the coast bus is here and I'm 2 hours ahead of schedule....
I made a beeline for the bus, hopped on, and paid for my coastal tour out to Sintra.
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Mosko Moto crammed a ton of features into their latest compact Adventure Bike Tank Bag, then gave it a unique mounting orientation for even more versatility. Follow the link to see how it performed!
#Tank Bag#Mosko Moto#Adventure Bike#Dual Sport#Adventure Touring#soft luggage#adventure bike luggage#motorcycle
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Hello. It snowed on us as we crossed the mountains, which provided a climax to one of the most prolonged extreme cold experiences of my life (second/equal perhaps to the time we forgot mountain passes were closed for winter in Japan, so we had to retrace our steps 60 miles in the dark, and possibly also a half-hour in Iceland when the wind slammed us almost off our bikes and we had to hide in a ditch) but we powered through and made it to the port last night.
Portimão -> Santander in a beach buggy over two days in February wearing four pairs of trousers, an array of fleeces and a Zara coat. Witness me.
Clearly we have paid our dues to the weather god, because the crossing was perfectly calm. Some ferry process pics:
Luggage in height-restricted mode to fit on the ferry.
The ferry!
A cool thing we queued alongside.
The Galicia is a bit shinier inside than the Pont Avon, the ship we sailed out on.
Spacious rooms?? A TV with more films than you could possibly watch in the 28-hour crossing???
Views over the side while we were waiting to disembark. We talked to a load of people while queuing to board and again as we were all milling about on the car deck waiting to leave.
By some bizarre coincidence, we met a couple we'd talked to for a long time at the Adventure Overland Show — awesome people who spend a load of time on the waterways. They'd been hanging out in Spain. Maybe we'll see them again at the next show. I'm still blown away by the unlikely odds of such a meeting.
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Unlocking the Thrill: The World of Motorcycle Accessories
Motorcycling is more than just a mode of transportation; it's a lifestyle, an exhilarating journey that sparks a sense of freedom and adventure. For motorcycle enthusiasts, their bike isn't just a machine; it's an extension of their personality. To enhance the riding experience and add a touch of personal flair, motorcyclists often turn to a wide array of motorcycle accessories. These accessories not only boost functionality but also elevate the aesthetics, comfort, and safety of the rider. In this blog, we delve into the fascinating world of motorcycle accessories that cater to the needs and desires of riders worldwide.
Riding Gear: Safety First
The most crucial motorcycle accessories are the ones designed to protect the rider. High-quality riding gear, including helmets, jackets, gloves, and boots, forms the first line of defense on the road. A sturdy, well-fitted helmet is indispensable, guarding against head injuries and ensuring a safer ride. Additionally, leather or textile jackets, along with armored gloves and boots, provide protection against abrasions and impacts.
Performance Upgrades: Unleashing the Power
To unlock the true potential of their motorcycles, many riders invest in performance upgrades. Aftermarket exhaust systems enhance engine efficiency, improve sound, and boost overall performance. High-quality air filters and fuel management systems optimize fuel intake, leading to better fuel economy and power delivery. Performance upgrades not only make riding more thrilling but also reflect the rider's quest for improved performance.
Comfort Add-ons: Smooth Sailing
Long rides can put a strain on the rider's body, leading to discomfort and fatigue. Motorcycle enthusiasts often seek comfort add-ons to make their journeys more pleasant. Upgraded seats with extra padding or gel inserts provide improved support, reducing the impact of long hours on the saddle. Adjustable handlebars and foot pegs allow riders to find their perfect riding position, minimizing strain and enhancing overall comfort.
Luggage Solutions: Carrying Essentials
For those embarking on adventurous road trips or daily commutes, luggage solutions become a must-have accessory. Tank bags, saddlebags, and tail bags offer ample storage space for carrying essentials like clothes, gadgets, and tools. For added convenience, some riders opt for top box motorcycles with integrated storage compartments, offering a secure and easily accessible space for their belongings.
Lighting Enhancements: Illuminating the Path
Enhanced lighting solutions are popular motorcycle accessories, especially for riders who love exploring after dark. LED headlights and auxiliary lights offer improved visibility, illuminating the road ahead and increasing safety during nighttime rides. Customizing the lighting setup also allows riders to add a unique touch to their bikes' appearance.
Aesthetic Accents: Reflecting Personal Style
Motorcycle enthusiasts often take pride in customizing their bikes to reflect their individuality. Aesthetic accessories such as tank pads, decals, and graphic kits add a touch of personal flair to the motorcycle's design. Custom paint jobs, rim tapes, and colored brake calipers are other ways riders enhance the visual appeal of their bikes, making them stand out in a crowd.
Conclusion:
Motorcycle accessories are more than just add-ons; they are the key to unlocking the true potential of a rider's journey. From safety gear to performance upgrades, comfort add-ons to aesthetic accents, these accessories cater to the diverse needs and desires of motorcyclists worldwide. As riders seek to elevate their riding experience, they find solace in the world of motorcycle accessories, where innovation and personalization intertwine to create a thrilling and unforgettable adventure on two wheels. Embracing the spirit of individuality and a quest for betterment, motorcycle accessories continue to evolve, enriching the lives of riders and igniting the passion for the open road.
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Today on BikeBound.com: 2010 Yamaha SR400 “Café Scrambler” from @tuchihumazu0930: "The SR400 has been my favorite bike since I was a kid. I've been riding this for over 10 years now. My taste in bikes is surprisingly consistent." The whole build started with a bespoke rear fender made by a friend. Other highlights include Öhlins forks, Brembo brakes, inline oil cooler, high-mount exhaust, spoked wheels with Metzeler Karoo 3 70/30 adventure tires, rear rack with leather luggage case, and that gorgeous 70s-inspired paint. Full story today on BikeBound.com! ⚡️Link in Bio⚡️ https://instagr.am/p/CnmSMKQusG8/
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Biking Eastern Taiwan
I'd heard over the years that Taiwan's East Coast is beautiful and a popular place to cycle, and that you can rent bikes at one Giant store and return them at another, making a one way rental bike tour reasonable.
I'd never quite found the excuse + motivation to plan a trip there, so had that filed away in the "some day" mental list. Then a few months ago a friend reached out saying he wanted to bike in Taiwan and would I be interested? I said yes, and before I knew it we were riding twisty roads down gorgeous Taroko gorge after gorging on breakfast dumplings...
The route we took started partway up the gorge (we got a van ride up with our bikes the previous night, and I'm glad we did-- the hills would have been manageable, but there was a lot of traffic including tour buses on narrow windy roads along a cliff, so biking up could have been unpleasant). From there, we went down to the coast, then cut inland on the remote-feeling 193 through the East Rift Valley (very lush, few cars), before climbing up the coastal mountain range on the 30, through a tunnel, and then riding along the coast to Taitung. About 270 km / 180 miles over four days.
This is the general route we took, though it's a messy file, auto-traced from a raw GPS recording, so don't count on all the cues or details being correct: https://ridewithgps.com/routes/42626006
The roads were almost universally smooth pavement, generally flat with some rolling hills, sometimes with a wide bike lane / shoulder, and other times sharing mostly-quiet country roads with scooters and cars:
We decided to make this a hybrid hike/bike trip to try to really experience this part of Taiwan-- most days we'd get up early and do a ~2 hour hike at dawn, then have a leisurely breakfast before riding for about 4-5 hours (6-7 when you include stops for lunch, museums, and beaches), getting to our destination hotel in the late afternoon. Riding only ~40-50 mildly hilly miles each day gave us the flexibility to not worry about beating sunset or having to hurry, though the hottest day still felt fairly challenging by the end.
In general the food was excellent, ranging from succulent steamed dumplings with a lot of ginger, to probably the best bao I've had in my life, to a range of great greens and vegetables. Even the onigiri at the 7-Elevens were great (my favorite flavor was "chicken rice"):
These incredible bao were ~$1 at 纏記舊街東河包子, a roadside restaurant in Donghe. The left one is 酸菜包 (the second bun from the left on their menu), and tasted like it included pork, pickled mustard greens, and ground peanuts. The right one is black sesame.
The weather was decent-- we did this ride at the beginning of April, which is about the latest in the spring I'd want to do it-- it was very humid, and the hottest day was ~85F but felt much hotter in the direct sun. We also had one day where we rode in intermittent rain all day-- but once your socks are soaked, they can't get any wetter...
This was also a new style of touring for me-- a "semi-supported, but self-guided" tour by Grasshopper Adventures. They gave us maps of recommended routes, pre-booked all our hotels, arranged the bike rentals, and arranged a driver or cab to transport our luggage from one hotel to the next each morning while we rode (as well as the van ride up Taroko gorge to start), so we didn't have to carry all our belongings on-bike, while also being available for remote support.
But there was no tour guide riding with us, so we had to do our own navigation and minor repairs-- which meant we got to take whatever side detours, hikes, or stops we wanted without holding up a larger group. I liked this compromise-- it let me jump into the trip with much less advance planning...
Looking back at my notebook, some notes-to-self for the next tour:
It was nice to ride 40-50 mile days and have down time in the afternoon to just lounge and read or wander the town
Consider a loose rain poncho instead of raincoat when riding in hot + humid weather
7-Elevens in Taiwan are amazingly well-stocked, and widespread in most areas: don't need to bring snacks from home, but...
If it's hot in a more remote area, carry 3 bottles of water (on the East Rift Valley day we found minimal places to refill before lunch, two bottles was not enough)
Check I'm buying the salty snacks (I bought a bag of unknown-flavor potato chips without translating the label, figuring it would be a fun surprise... and they turned out to be the special salt-free chips...)
Carry a handkerchief-- while I carried some backup TP/soap/sanitizer, many public restrooms had no way to dry your hands, and many of the street food stalls provided a few wispy tissue-like napkins.
Schedule your to hit major tourist sites or scenic driving routes on weekdays, for lighter traffic. I've learned this before, and thought we had that well-planned by being in Taroko Gorge mid-week. But it turned out it was the last day of a holiday (Grave Sweeping Day) so there was more traffic than usual.
Google Translate on images works remarkably well for Chinese text (signs, menus, directions) these days-- not speaking the language was a challenge, but google translate at least made most restaurant menus and roadside warning signs manageable.
Overall, it was a great experience (and good group of laid-back folks to travel with, who were also interested in making lots of sightseeing or roadside snack stand stops along the way-- travel goals compatibility is important!)
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I am embarking on yet another bicycle adventure as I continue celebrating my “major milestone” birthday year. Hey, I figure that I’m only young once and might as well do these things while I’m able to. My ever-suffering spouse tolerates these adventures with a smile. The plan is to cycle from Livingstone, Zambia (north side of Victoria Falls) thru Zambia, Botswana, and Namibia to Cape Town, South Africa. The total distance is approximately 2000 miles with 53,000 ft of elevation gain. There are 25 days of riding with 5 rest days. I’m going with a Toronto-based commercial bike tour company called TDA Global Cycling. They specialize in epic adventure rides and are the company that lead my rides across India a few years ago and South America in October 2022. I’m riding only the last third of the tour but many others in the group started in January in Cairo and have already pedaled 4000 miles. This tour is classified as a “fully supported” ride which means they plan the routes, carry all my luggage, prepare 3 meals a day, and provide support on the roads. We will be camping the entire time. I hope those lions are not hungry. I’ve brought along my heavy steel Surly gravel bike- it’s basic and easy to fix when the nearest bike shop could be hundreds of miles away. Approximately 25% of the route will not be paved- I’m hoping that it’s gravel and not sand but the pictures I’ve seen of Namibia show endless sand dunes 😬.
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