#_author:Leeann Duggan

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Legendary Designer Norma Kamali Shares the Stories Behind Her Most Iconic Designs

Legendary New York designer Norma Kamali speaks at the SCADstyle conference at Savannah College of Art and Design. (Photo: Courtesy of SCAD)

In a business as fickle as fashion, only a handful of designers can lay claim to a 50-year career, and those who do — your Coco Chanels, your Yves Saint Laurents — are justifiably considered legends. And not only for their longevity. To have a lasting career in fashion is to deliver that elusive combination of innovation and timelessness that keeps customers coming back season after season, and that manages to capture the zeitgeist of multiple decades. The failure rate should tell you it’s not an easy feat.

On that very short list of designers who have dressed generations is Norma Kamali. Inspired by the freedom of Britain’s youthquake movement, Kamali opened her first boutique selling imported designs in New York in 1967. Soon she added her own. That many of those designs were a first, and were immensely influential, is a testament to her vision. Kamali gave us, among other things, the Sleeping Bag Coat, the high-heeled sneaker, clothes made of parachute fabric, and the world’s sexiest one-piece swimsuits (the red one famously worn by Farrah Fawcett now resides in the Smithsonian).

Before some enterprising trend forecaster thought to call it “athleisure,” Kamali turned gray sweatshirt fabric into a full collection of tops, pants, and dresses. In doing so, she prefigured a new, athletic-influenced, easy way of dressing that we all owe a debt to every time we pull on leggings to run to the grocery store. The quintessentially New York designer also partnered with brands like Everlast and Walmart to create lower-priced versions of her cutting-edge pieces, thus pioneering the designer collaboration.

Recently, Kamali gave a talk at SCADstyle, the annual fashion conference held at the Savannah College of Art and Design, in front of a rapt audience of students, press, and industry vets. That the audience was largely packed with young’uns whose parents may not have been born when Kamali began her business didn’t matter a bit — like all students of fashion (self-taught or otherwise), they were fully aware of Kamali’s stature in the industry and eager to receive her wisdom.

At her talk with SCAD professor and fashion historian Carmela Spinelli, Kamali outlined the history of some of her most iconic collections and pieces, from the coat that had an unexpected revival in the wake of 9/11 to the Parachute Collection, born of a friend’s betrayal. Read on for insights into how fashion history was made.

Designer Norma Kamali discusses a SCAD fashion student’s work at Savannah College of Art and Design. (Photo: Courtesy of SCAD)

The Sleeping Bag Coat “I was camping in the ’70s with a friend, and it was freezing cold. I kept wrapping my sleeping bag around me and darting out to use the bathroom in the woods. At one point, I thought ‘I should put sleeves on this thing and make a coat!’ I did that when I returned to New York. I use every part of the sleeping bag, and still use the same pattern today that I created in the ’70s.

“The Sleeping Bag Coat was a huge hit and has had many revivals. After 9/11, I went to my office to check my messages and was stunned to see I had message after message asking for the Sleeping Bag Coat. People were just desperate to buy one. It was a very hot and muggy September in New York, and I thought, ‘Why do people want coats?’ But I called everyone back to work at my factory, and we began making them. They’re a psychological safe place for people.”

The Parachute Collection “Back in the ’70s, Halston’s palace was a block away from my boutique. Halston at the time had an assistant named Victor Hugo who would come hang out at my shop — he knew everything I did. One day I saw a swimsuit on the cover of Time magazine that looked very much like one of mine — but it was credited to Halston. I knew it was [Hugo] who had done that, and I felt so betrayed because he had been a friend of mine. I had WWD calling me for a comment. They ran an article showing both swimsuits side by side.

“So Victor called me up and said, ‘I owe you big time. Halston is away this weekend. Come to his house — I have a surprise for you.’ So I went to Halston’s house, which had a huge, two-story living room with a balcony over it. Victor sat me on an ottoman and said, ‘Sit there and close your eyes.’ He stood on the balcony over me and dropped a parachute on my head and said, ‘I know you can make fashion out of anything, and I know you’ll do great things with this fabric. I hope it makes it up to you.’ It was a beautiful silk parachute from the Korean War, and I used it to make him a jumpsuit, plus tops, pants, bags, all kinds of other pieces. The parachute pieces have been some of my biggest sellers.”

Designer Norma Kamali speaks with SCAD professor Carmela Spinelli at the SCADstyle conference at Savannah College of Art and Design. (Photo: Courtesy of SCAD)

Sweats “Back in the late ’70s, the only place you could get gray sweatshirts or sweatpants was the Army-Navy store, and people only wore them for yard work. I decided to do sweatshirts as part of my swim collection as cover-ups — they look great with a tan. So I started to do that, but within a few days I had a whole collection — I made evening gowns, jumpsuits, tops, pants out of this material.

“It’s hard to imagine now, but back then no one wore sweats, no one was thinking about casual dressing. People were always dressed up. They even got dressed up to board a plane. I priced the whole collection under $200, and it was a huge hit. It changed the mood of how we dress, even today.”

Swimwear “Making swimwear patterns is one of my favorite things to do. I love pattern-making in general — it’s meditative to me. I come into work at 6 a.m. every day so I can have a few hours to design and make patterns. I think I’m better than any swimwear pattern maker I’ve ever hired, and I think I could compete with any one in the world. I’m pretty good, and I’ve been doing his for a while.

“My swimsuits were a little more athletic, the one-pieces with the higher-cut legs. You can move in them. Christie Brinkley wore my swimsuits, Farrah Fawcett was a customer — that’s her own red swimsuit she wore in the poster. That suit is now at the Smithsonian. It’s an honor.”

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Fashion Girls Are Obsessed With These Very Un-Basic White Shirts

LoveHard, an N.Y.C.-based brand, specializes in beyond-the-basic versions of the white shirt. LoveHard’s Style 004 shown here. (Photo: Instagram/@embryn)

The white shirt: Like a sensible heel or a good trench coat, it’s one of those pieces that’s earned an eternal place on every list of women’s wardrobe must-haves ever published. Of course, a white shirt is a work-wear staple, and there’s nothing like an oversized one to make any pair of jeans elegant in that all-important, not-trying way. And yet the thought of wearing a white shirt doesn’t exactly light up the synapses like, say, a pair of insanely glittery Vans or a cool new piece of costume jewelry. Which is why it’s kind of amazing that LoveHard, a new-ish, N.Y.C.-based label — is making the simple white shirt something to actually get jazzed about.

LoveHard’s Style 002 shirt features raw-edge side slits. (Photo: Instagram/@embryn)

LoveHard was started in 2016 by Lindsay Cohen, and the brand offers just one item — white shirts in four styles, each an idiosyncratic twist on the staple. There’s Style 001, an oversized shirt in crisp white cotton that’s like the shirt you wish your boyfriend owned so you could steal it (it also looks quite alluring worn backwards). Style 002 is a deconstructed version of the 001, featuring raw-edged side slits that give the shirt a more ethereal feel.

LoveHard’s Style 003 shirt. (Photo: Instagram/@lovehardnyc)

Style 003 is all business in front, naked lady line drawing in back. And the asymmetrical, half-cropped Style 004, shown up top, is the LoveHard shirt that first caught my eye/became my obsession when I spotted it on designer Emily Bryngelson, a woman who looks impossibly chic in everything she wears (but especially this shirt). Some clothes wear their kookiness on their sleeve in the form of bright colors or crazy construction; Style 004 is offbeat in the most offhand way possible. It’s all about that crisp white cotton, bisected by one sexy-as-hell curved line. Is calling it a Richard Serra sculpture in shirt form too much? Yeah, probably. But suffice it to say it is a seriously choice garment, and this comes from someone who looks at clothes for a living.

Once you know this brand, you’ll start spotting it here and there — it’s still far from ubiquitous, but it’s starting to make inroads with a certain type of cool girl who often works in fashion, is on the minimalist tip, and whose outfits you’re always jealous of. Which means only one thing — time to get yours now before everyone else does.

LoveHard founder Lindsay Cohen. (Photo: Courtesy of LoveHard)

We spoke with LoveHard founder Lindsay Cohen about her path from journalism school to fashion design, why the white shirt inspires her, and her plans for the brand.

Yahoo Style: What led you to start LoveHard? Lindsay Cohen: I studied journalism at Indiana University, I’ve been with [retail consulting firm] Gogoluxe for nearly eight years, and prior to that I worked at Alexander Wang. I started LoveHard in 2016, and we make everything here in N.Y.C.

What is it about the white shirt that inspires you? I believe in timeless fashion that adapts to all seasons. For me, nothing represents that concept more than the white shirt, which is a staple across almost all wardrobes. It’s amazing the variety something so simple can provide.

Who is the LoveHard customer? LoveHard is truly meant to be worn by all. That is why each series will always focus on one classic item with a spectrum of interpretations to choose from. I want people who follow the brand to feel an automatic sense of style with ease when they’re slipping into a LoveHard piece. When you feel good from within, it reflects on the outside. Like the rest of your daily routine, dressing should contribute to the feeling of wellness.

Your customers have a rep for being extremely stylish — how do LoveHard women wear your pieces? I tend to think of clothing like memory foam; the way it adheres to each person’s body, and how each person’s figure will interpret the pieces, is different. That, to me, is the beauty of clothing. I wouldn’t want to dictate how someone should wear the pieces. Wear them however best suits your style!

So you call the white shirts Series 1 — will more styles be forthcoming? Or are you on to Series 2 next? Variations of the white shirt will potentially be introduced down the line as limited exclusive runs. Series 2 is still in the late stages of brainstorm mode … it’s forming shape, and once it does, I’ll be happy to share!

Advice for anyone thinking of starting their own brand? Stay true to yourself and believe in what you’re building. Never try and fit into someone else’s mold. The market is always craving newness, so let your ideas run free. With time and care, something beautiful can always be achieved. And most importantly, always go with your gut instincts. They might be quiet, but if you listen carefully they will never steer you wrong!

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This Weekend Only: Everlane’s Pop-Up Shop Brings You Your New Favorite Shoes

Everlane will debut its new Day Collection of shoes at two pop-up shops this weekend. (Photo: Courtesy of Everlane)

If you’re the sort of person who gets really hyped about effortlessly cool basics, then you’re no doubt already hip to Everlane, the mostly online retailer that has recently made baby steps into the world of brick-and-mortar retail. And if you’re the sort of woman who lives in flats and maybe a blocky heel when you’re feeling super fancy, then you really need to hear about this.

This Saturday, Everlane is debuting two new pop-up shops — one in New York City and one in San Francisco. They’re called The Day Market, after Everlane’s highly anticipated new Day Collection of leather shoes. The shops will also feature make-your-own bouquet stations — because it’s spring, our eyes are starved for beauty, and our apartments are musty from four months of closed windows.

Everlane’s new Day Ballet, and Day Mule. (Photos: Courtesy of Everlane)

The Day Collection consists of an almond-toe mule that’ll look cute with your cropped trousers for spring (like maybe Everlane’s own insanely popular Wide-Leg Crop Pant), a high-cut ballet flat that reminds us of Stuart Weitzman’s classic ’90s styles, and a 2-inch heel that’s Everlane’s entry into the glove-shoe market. Prices range from $120 to $145, and they’re all buttery soft and cushy enough to be worn day to night — because breaking in shoes? Nobody has time for that.

The Day Market will be open Saturday, April 8 and Sunday, April 9 at 52 Kenmare Street in New York City, and 2170 Folsom Street in San Francisco — click here for more details. And for those of you who can’t make it to the shop, the shoes debut starting April 10, and you can put yourself on the waitlist here.

Let’s keep in touch. Follow Yahoo Style on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest for inspiration delivered fresh to your feed, every day.

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Tons of Ticket-Holders Were Turned Away From Jeremy Scott, and It's All the Kardashians' Fault, Probably

Gigi Hadid models — what else? — Jesus pants on the Jeremy Scott runway. (Photo: Getty Images)

It’s a truism as old as time that the more important you are, the later you show up. So it was that I arrived at the Jeremy Scott show at New York Fashion Week on Friday night, ticket in hand, feeling quite dorky because I’d arrived 10 minutes early. Who shows up early for a fashion show, I thought? Same kind of person who has a lame third-row seat, I answered myself, rudely.

But as I entered, I saw the entire lobby was already quite full of the typical Jeremy Scott-show crowd of fashion editors, demi-celebs, and art-damaged freaks. Of course, there were actual celebs there, too — major ones like Kylie Jenner and Debbie Harry and dear God the fact that I just named those two in the same breath hurts my heart. But they had already gone inside. The rest of us were left to mill about in the very-packed lobby as the show’s 7 p.m. start time came and went, and another 30 minutes ticked by.

Kylie Jenner and Sofia Richie — reasons number 1 and 2 why I couldn’t get into the Jeremy Scott show, probably. (Photo: Getty Images)

“It’s fine, if you have a ticket, you’ll get in,” I was reassured. “I heard they’re filming an episode of Keeping Up With The Kardashians in there,” one editor ventured. “Ugh, those people ruin everything,” another replied.

Finally, we were all barked at to proceed into the venue. Hooray! So we, as a crowd, penguin-walked for another 30 minutes, barely inching forward, corralled into a narrow hallway by Tensabarriers in an overheated horde of faux fur and winter accessories. Meanwhile, a steady stream of people skipped to the other side of the barriers and barreled past the baby-stepping crowd, shoving, impervious to the shouts of security. These people invariably looked like either John Vartavos shoppers (perma-stubble, $300 beanies), or the club kids that are Jeremy Scott’s bread and butter.

I entered the venue directly behind the fashion mullet girl at right — she made it to front row with 2007’s fave DJ crew the Misshapes, I cabbed it home. Kudos to you, fashion mullet girl. (Photo: Getty Images)

Back in the fashion editor cattle chute, the smell of wet wool was in the air. Turning a corner was accomplished with the kind of effortful incrementalism that only a seasoned Congressperson could appreciate. “It’s like being at the Women’s March,” I said to my friend from Nylon. One positive side to the extreme wait times: I got to catch up with, and meet, fellow editors at all my favorite fashion publications. Seeing people from big-deal magazines and websites also not able to get in was a sweet, ego-healing balm. Where competition and outfit-appraising looks might normally reign, we were united by a resigned collectivism, like when you get stuck on the subway.

Finally, an hour into our tip-toeing journey, we were loudly shouted at by security that the venue was full. And closed. And that no one else would be allowed in. “Even with tickets?” I asked like a damned, hopeful fool. “We all have tickets!” was the half-crazed reply from the crowd.

“Sex Is Cute” and “Boy Trap” T-Shirts on the Jeremy Scott runway. (Photo: Getty Images)

And so, a stream of quite a few rather-important fashion editors (I do not count myself among them) and other assorted cool kids were turned loose in the night, cursing the Scott and Kardashian names. Inside, I later found out via the internet, Gigi Hadid modeled Jesus pants, girls with fashion mullets took selfies with the everyone’s favorite mid-2000s DJ crew the Misshapes, and Kylie Jenner sat front row in a brown beaded dress that matched her lipstick and foundation.

Despite Jeremy Scott’s NPR interview earlier this week, which indicated that this would be a heavily political collection, we didn’t see any of the T-shirts he promised, which featured members of Congress’ phone numbers. But like, maybe we just couldn’t see those on social media and Getty, where we watched the show. We did, however see T-shirts that said “Boy Trap” and “Sex Is Cute.” Not quite the anti-Trump scorcher we were expecting, but beggars, choosers, etc.

A model wears a Marie Antoinette-print dress, which may or may not mean something. (Photo: Getty Images)

We did see a winsome mix of ’60s, ’70s, and ’90s influences (Twiggy eyelashes, acid-trip prints, patchwork flares, neon furs, lunchbox purses). It was bright and colorful and fun and cheeky. A Marie Antoinette-printed dress maybe had something to say about this late-decadent period of American life, overrun as it is with oligarchs, glutted with greedy billionaires, ripe for a revolution.

Or maybe I’m reading too much into it. After all, when Kylie Jenner is your (highly paid) guest of honor, you’ve clearly shown you’re down with the idle rich.

Let’s keep in touch. Follow Yahoo Style on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest for inspiration delivered fresh to your feed, every day.

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9 Things You Need to Know About the New, #NoDrama Yeezy Season 5

On Wednesday, Kanye West held his Yeezy Season 5 runway show at New York City’s Pier 59. We’d never say it was a sedate affair — according to social media reports, editors and other attendees were lined up around the block before the show started, while wannabe attendees tried talking their way in. But compared with last season’s show, which featured a remote location on Roosevelt Island, long delays, and fainting models, this one felt downright well organized.

It was also, crucially, a lot smaller than Season 3, for which Kanye West packed Madison Square Garden. This season, there was no livestream like the one on Tidal last season, which let the whole world be privy to that show’s now-notorious production problems. That was probably on purpose. A Kanye West show will never not be some level of crazy — he’s just that big, and people are just that obsessed with him. But in this case, (slightly) smaller seemed better.

At the end of the less-than-15-minute show, one editor called it “low-key” and “no-drama” — words never before applied to a Yeezy show. And after thoroughly exasperating the fashion pack for the last couple of seasons, that was probably the whole point.

Ahead, nine things to know about Yeezy Season 5.

1. The show started on time-ish … for a fashion show.

Unlike last season’s extensive — and much complained-about — delays, Season 5 started at 3:24 p.m. A while after its stated start time of 3:00 p.m., sure, but typical for a fashion show. The Yeezy production crew clearly tightened things up this season.

Kim Kardashian West arrives at the Yeezy Season 5 fashion show in New York City. (Photo: Splash)

2. Kim Kardashian wore a head-to-toe maroon lewk — and required heavy security.

Guest of honor Kim K. tends to wear all one color to the Yeezy shows, like these brown and camel looks. On Wednesday, deep maroon was her color of the day. She wore a matching mock sleeveless turtleneck, puffer jacket, chic sweats, and pointy-toe heels (puffer coat worn unzipped and off the shoulder à la Balenciaga, naturally). Meanwhile, these security guards were working hard to protect the star at one of her most high-profile appearances since she was robbed in Paris:

“We’re as stressed out as you,” the very nice security guards tell us at @kanyewest #NYFW show pic.twitter.com/JUWYJRBEVH

— @Booth (@Booth) February 15, 2017

3. The front row featured Kim Kardashian, Anna Wintour, Kylie Jenner, Tyga, and Hailey Baldwin.

In past years, the entire Kardashian/Jenner fam has turned out for Yeezy shows. In contrast this time, we saw no North West, no Kris Jenner (although she was reportedly in New York during the time of the show) — this season, it seems only Kim and Kylie and a surprisingly chill-looking Kylie Jenner were in attendance, and the pair stopped backstage after the show. Another attempt to keep things low-key, perhaps?

February 15: Kylie and Kim backstage at Yeezy Season 5 Fashion Show. @kyliejenner #kyliejenner pic.twitter.com/ZVkkp7oohR

— Jenner Updates (@jennerdailynews) February 15, 2017

4. The venue was very dark and very loud.

Inside Pier 59, the walls and runway was black, with dim lighting — people reportedly had trouble finding seats. Pre-show music was variously referred to as “transcendental” or “spa” music — very chill. But once the show started, a reporter for Elle.com said the soundtrack was so loud, the whole building vibrated throughout the show.

  More black panther imagery at Yeezy season 5 pic.twitter.com/fcbA7GegYT

— Aria Hughes (@ariahughes) February 15, 2017

5. The show started with no models.

At the top of the show, models were projected on a large screen in the center of the runway. Only at the end did real live models appear. Some fashion editors were not impressed with the virtual nature of the show: “They could have sent us a PDF!” one fashion editor said on Snapchat.

  ???????????? #YeezySeason5 https://t.co/2WRJ3h7JBD pic.twitter.com/68ivF6IfAX

— ELLE Magazine (US) (@ELLEmagazine) February 15, 2017

6. The collection features menswear and womenswear, and is athleisure-y as usual.

There were track pants printed with the word “Calabasas” (the town where the Kardashians live); other garments were printed with the words “Lost Hills.” We saw an updated version of Boost sneakers, camo jackets, shearling coats, oversize sweatshirts and hoodies, and many pairs of suede mid-calf boots.

Photo: Twitter/@Booth

7. The notorious thigh-high boots are back.

One of the models wore a head-to-toe maroon look similar to the one Kim K. sported. It featured those thigh-high boots that debuted last season — but they seem easier to stand upright in this season, unlike last time.

    Get your first look at #YeezySeason5 on today’s Instagram Stories @i_D now ! pic.twitter.com/nBueogJ5G2

— i-D (@i_D) February 15, 2017

8. Yep, Yeezy does denim now.

It’s high-waisted and ’90s mom-ish, and you can’t say his clothes are unwearable anymore — or complain about the lack of models wearing pants, as folks did last season.

  One of the most low key fashion shows I’ve ever been to, coming and going #YeezySeason5 @kanyewest #NYFW pic.twitter.com/N9KPnOwWTD

— @Booth (@Booth) February 15, 2017

9. The show ended at 3:39 p.m. Miraculously, no disasters in sight.

After fewer than 15 minutes, at the end of the show, Kanye did not come out for the designer’s customary bow. In fact, no one seemed quite sure the show had ended. Yahoo Style’s Market Director spotted Kim mouthing to Anna Wintour “I guess it’s over,” and then just walked backstage.

Fashion editors and fans will have days to debate the merits of the collection. But for now, everyone’s breathing a sigh of relief that it went without a hitch or fainting model in sight. We think it’s safe to say that Yeezy definitely wins the “Most Improved Runway Show” award.

Related: Kim Kardashian’s Yeezy Style Through the Years

Let’s keep in touch. Follow Yahoo Style on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest for inspiration delivered fresh to your feed, every day.

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The Olsen Twins Treat Showgoers to a Carb-Filled Bento Box

Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen attend an event for their fashion label the Row in 2015. (Photo: Getty Images)

Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen — they act, they produce, they head a multimedia empire, they design their terribly successful and well-regarded luxury fashion line the Row, and they understand that breakfast is the most important meal of the day.

  At The Row, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen give out donuts, granola, and scones to “get you through the day” #NYFW pic.twitter.com/iQzTIoJp0d

— Vanessa Friedman (@VVFriedman) February 13, 2017

New York Times fashion critic Vanessa Friedman reported on Twitter that the twins helpfully provided breakfast to attendees at their 10:30 a.m. runway show in New York to help “get you through the day.” But, on closer inspection, the Olsen twins’ breakfast would appear to be the world’s carbiest bento box, consisting as it does of donut holes, madeleines, granola, and a scone.

So, the obvious question — is this what the Olsen twins eat for breakfast? Or any fashion buyer or editor, for that matter? We get it: Bacon doesn’t travel quite as well, and a hard-boiled egg scent is not the one you want to greet your chic guests — but if we ate that for breakfast, you’d find us crashed out from a sugar high an hour later on Washington Street.

The Row F17 #NYFW #TheRow

A photo posted by Will Schneiderman (@wschneiderman) on Feb 13, 2017 at 6:40am PST

Of course, food was not the main focus of the Row’s show. As always, it’s their understatedly luxurious clothes that are the focal point. To the untrained eye, the Row aesthetic may not appear to change very much from season to season. Almost always, we see a neutral color palette, oversize coats, exaggerated silhouettes, and an emphasis on menswear-inspired shirting and trousers over dresses and the like.

#FromTheFrontRow It was all about long coats at The Row this morning with signature neutral colors like this long beige leather coat worn by Ine Neefs @therow @ineneefs #therow #ineneefs #NYFW

A photo posted by Vogue Paris (@vogueparis) on Feb 13, 2017 at 7:22am PST

But always, the designers give you just enough newness to make it feel desirable and fresh. This season, they go in on the ultralong sleeve trend that was made for the Row woman, being equal parts offbeat and intellectual. The beautiful coats they’ve become known for were worn several sizes too bigin previous seasons, unbuttoned over luxe separates. This season, though, the coats are still nice and long (nearly ankle-grazing), but are more fitted, and often belted for a quasi-military, ’90s Jil Sander allure. We especially dug the beige coats with double-wrapped belts.

F17 #therow

A photo posted by Niccolò Pasqualetti (@niccolopasqualetti) on Feb 13, 2017 at 7:54am PST

Ashley and Mary-Kate also debuted a new kind of boot on the runway — a pointy-toe, flat boot with a lug sole. It strikes that perfect balance between cool, forward-thinking, and a little bit sexy, in a way that feels meant for women, not men. We bet they’ll be a big hit with the sort of boss women who are successful, sure of themselves, and refuse to hobble in heels.

The Row Fall 2017 premier @therow #freedom #therow #america #weloveyou #womensmarch #befree #embroidery #details

A photo posted by PAMDABAM ∞ (@dabam) on Feb 13, 2017 at 7:03am PST

And the Row is not the kind of label to go in for a splashy political statement, but in our current climate, the significance of the subtle embroidery on some pieces — “Unity” and “Freedom” — cannot be missed. As always, the Row woman knows what she wants to say, and doesn’t feel the need to shout it from the rooftops — her beliefs are a part of her fabric.

Let’s keep in touch. Follow Yahoo Style on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest for inspiration delivered fresh to your feed, every day.

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A Model Wore Shrubbery Instead of a Shirt at Adam Selman

A model wears a shrubbery-shirt at Adam Selman’s fashion show on February 9, 2017 in NYC. (Photo: Getty Images)

New York City may have been slammed with nearly a foot of snow in just a few hours on Thursday, the first day of New York Fashion Week — but true fashion people know that’s no reason to do something crazy, like dress sensibly.

While many editors wore fashion-y versions of weather boots, or puffy coats (which are totally okay, now that they’re Balenciaga-approved), we saw just as many poor souls tottering around in four-inch heels with a “rugged” lug sole (Timberlands, these were not). Fashion doesn’t stop for the snowpocalypse, y’all.

That practicality-be-damned attitude extended to the runway of NYFW favorite Adam Selman, too. The designer sent a model down the runway holding a large tangle of roses and assorted greenery in front of her chest. “Oh,” I thought, “what lovely shiny disco pants, I can’t wait to see the shirt that goes with them, which is surely hiding behind all these thickets and brambles.”

And, the back view of that shrubbery-shirt at Adam Selman. (Photo: Getty Images)

But, as the model strolled by, bare-backed as the day God made her, it became clear that, nah, she was just wearing some shrubbery for a shirt.

Which like, do you Adam Selman! You who made teensy cat-eye sunglasses a thing, who gave the world the glory that was Rihanna damn near naked in a shimmering gown of your creation! If bushes are the nest big thing in fashion, then bushes we shall wear!

Models walk the runway at the Adam Selman show in NYC. (Photo: Getty Images)

Of course, most models were dressed in fabric, not flora. Selman showed his usual perfectly-pitched, kooky mix of slouchy separates with flirty dresses. We loved the Studio 54 diva dress situation at left, and the cherry-red trousers at right moved really beautifully in person.

Models walk the runway at the Adam Selman show in NYC. (Photo: Getty Images)

Denim is always a muse for Selman, and he showed Canadian tuxedos, nicely fitted mechanic’s jumpsuits, and crisp denim shirts, all in a dark wash and embroidered with roses — a major theme in this collection, from the rose-bush “shirt” to the oversized rose fascinators with attached veils worn by some models.

Many of the looks, like both shown above, were styled with extreeeeemely loooooong belts — we’ve all got one, so try skipping the belt loops next time and see if you don’t feel sassy in a Selman sort of way.

Adam Selman takes his final bow. (Photo: Getty Images)

Adam Selman is not only one of NYFW’s most-anticipated shows — this season, he moved to a much bigger venue to accommodate the crowd of fashion editors, and fans who eagerly lined up for standing room — he’s also one of the most well-liked designers. As he came out to take his final bow to the usual cheers, he showed off the pink “Fashion Stands With Planned Parenthood” pin that he gave away to show-goers, and which was also spotted on Anna Wintour at the Brock Collection show earlier this afternoon. Shrubbery-shirts aside, this might be shaping up to be the biggest accessory of New York Fashion Week.

Let’s keep in touch. Follow Yahoo Style on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest for inspiration delivered fresh to your feed, every day.

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The Tommy x Gigi Show Hasn’t Even Started Yet, and the Clothes Are Already Selling Out

Gigi Hadid models two items from her Tommy Hilfiger collaboration — both listed as “sold out” on the website. (Photo: Courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger)

The world is currently waiting with bated breath for tonight’s Tommy x Gigi runway show, debuting the latest collaboration between sportswear giant Tommy Hilfiger and sometimes-woke supermodel Gigi Hadid — and by “world,” we mean fashion folks, teenagers, and general fans of stunning, coltish models who often skip wearing actual clothes (receipt 1, and 2).

The show is still three hours away (it starts at 8 p.m. ET, 5 p.m. PT), and Tommy Hilfiger’s social accounts say you can shop the see-now-buy-now collection as soon as the show starts. But even though this hasn’t been publicized, here at Yahoo Style, we noticed that the clothes are not only already available to preorder online at Tommy Hilfiger’s website — some items are so popular, they’re already listed as “sold out.”

There was similar enthusiasm for the collection last season, when we noticed items selling out just after the show. This year, it seems Tommy x Gigi fans couldn’t wait that long.

The newest Tommy Hilfiger x Gigi Hadid collection already seems to be selling out online — hours before the show begins. (Photo: Courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger)

Click on this $29.50 red cotton “crop top” (which in our day was called a “sports bra”), and you get a message in red stating “We’re sorry, this item has been so popular, it has sold out” (also known as the J.Crew message of doom). Ditto this oversized red sweatshirt, which was available for $149. If you like it, you can still preorder it in blue.

This patch-adorned polo is already listed as “no longer available” online. (Photo: Courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger)

Many other items, like the $70 yellow polo shirt with the “Gigi” patch, and the $100 color block top, take you to a blank page that says “Unfortunately this item is no longer available.” Could it be a site glitch, since the collection technically isn’t supposed to be available for purchase yet? We reached out to Tommy Hilfiger for comment, but have not heard back as of this writing.

Other items from the forthcoming Tommy Hilfiger x Gigi Hadid collection are merely selling very, very fast. (Photo: Courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger)

Other items are definitely in the process of selling down, so jump on ’em if you like ’em. This $325 leather miniskirt is already sold out in sizes 2, 4, and 6 — but sizes 8, 10, and 12, you’re in luck! The boho-ish silk maxi dress Gigi models in the lookbook is already sold out in three sizes. The pencil skirt to match the previously-mentioned color block top? Now only available in size XL.

It’s not all bad news, though. In need of a cropped hoodie? (Aren’t we all.) This one’s got your back in a plethora of sizes. The cute leather saddle bag? Still holding strong.

We’ll update here if we hear back from our Tommy rep about when we might expect restocks on these items. In the meantime, let no one tell you a pretty face can’t move $400 dresses!

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Madewell Is On a Mission to Make Your Underwear Drawer a Lot Chiller

Madewell’s first-ever intimates line launches online and in stores today. (Photo: Courtesy of Madewell)

There was a time when the general idea behind bras was to aggressively pad, lift, and separate (the Wonderbra years: do not miss). Thankfully these days, bras have gotten a lot, well, chiller. The last few years have seen a huge spike in the popularity of bralettes that provide unobtrusive support, rather than poking you with underwires, and aiming your boobs somewhere in the direction of your chin. Underwear has gone through a similar evolution: These days, full-coverage bottoms are not only a hot-seller, they’re also considered as sexy — if not more so — than that scourge of the early 2000s, the thong.

It’s into this climate that Madewell launches its first-ever line of intimates, debuting online and in all of its stores today (you can find the line at all Nordstroms, too). The collection consists of 42 pieces: 16 bralettes and 26 bottoms in three fabrics.

Madewell’s Lace Liana Bralette embodies the collection’s subtly sexy vibe. (Photo: Courtesy of Madewell)

As with everything Madewell does, the vibe is effortless cool-girl, not sexpot or try-hard. There’s not an underwire or a bit of padding to be seen anywhere — a boon to those of us who are perfectly happy with what nature gave us, thanks very much. The fabrics range from a lovely, lightly-stretchy cotton, to lace, and a subtly sexy, and not too transparent mesh. Even the prices are chill: they range from a decidedly sane $12.50 to $32.

L-R: Madewell’s Cotton-Modal Kealy Bralette and Mesh-Trimmed Michele Bralette, available now. (Photo: Courtesy of Madewell)

If you’re looking to refresh your underwear drawer with pieces that feel good on and are sexy, but not in an overheated male-fantasy kind of way, this line is for you. This author is currently wearing the cotton Eliza bralette, with its cute diamond cutout, and feels both un-squished and utterly cool. I like it so much, I’m buying it in colorblock blush and black next. It doesn’t get much better than that.

Shop the new Madewell intimates collection online, and at all Madewell and Nordstrom stores.

Read more:

It’s Official: Thongs Are Out, Granny Panties Are In

The Ultimate Valentine’s Day Gift Guide

Do People Still Care About Fashion Week?

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President Donald Trump Taped His Tie at Inauguration

A gust of wind revealed tape on the back of Donald Trump’s tie at his Inauguration. (Photo: Evan Vucci/AP)

  In early December, Donald Trump’s tie made social media waves when gust of wind blew it back to reveal a piece of Scotch tape.

#TapeGate trended on Twitter and people wondered how the soon-to-be leader of the free world, who presumably has a team of stylists, personal shoppers, and experts available to him at all times (also: lots of money), was hitting up OfficeMax to solve his fashion problems.

Well, Trump’s trusty tape trick has been revealed again  — on Inauguration Day.

Soon after Trump was sworn in as 45th President of the United States of America, a breeze flipped his tie over his shoulder to reveal the translucent tape.

While no one’s claiming it’s the most egregious of Trump’s missteps, there are a variety of fixes for a wayward tie tail: A tie pin, tack, or bar is an elegant choice. Many ties have loops built into the back to tuck the tail into. In fact, back in December, one Twitter user went deep and saw that Trump’s tie does, in fact, have this — but Trump wears his ties so long that the tail appears to be too short to take advantage of it.

as you can see, there is, in fact, a little loop for him to put the skinny part through, it’s just that the skinny part doesn’t reach pic.twitter.com/bD7uZY2uGp

— Ashley Feinberg (@ashleyfeinberg) December 2, 2016

In a pinch, you can even tuck the tie tail into your shirt or use a safety pin.

Donald Trump, wearing one of his signature long ties, speaks at the second presidential debate, on Oct. 9. (Photo: Getty Images)

Overall, though, it’s Trump’s habit of wearing those too-long ties that has drawn the most ire.

The rule of thumb is that a man’s tie should just graze the top of his belt buckle — a rule Trump regularly violates. Business Insider called Trump’s ties “one of the most offensive mistakes” possible in men’s style. Comedian Patton Oswalt called the look “hungover limo driver” on Twitter after the second presidential debate (ouch). GQ recently published what, at first glance, seemed to be a positive article on the “style lesson you can learn from Trump,” but it was a feint. The article used Trump’s ties as an example of how not to dress.

The prevailing narrative casts Trump as a man who’s simply clueless about clothing, violating basic Menswear 101 rules out of ignorance. But others see a strategy behind the president’s style mistakes.

“Let’s make it clear — when it comes to a presidential race, there are no style mistakes,” says David Yi, editor of the men’s beauty and grooming site Very Good Light. “Everything is planned out methodically, [from] lapel size to tie color. So when it comes to Trump’s suits, of course the ill fit and copious jacket sizes are intentional. He wants to look larger than life.”

Another interesting theory has it that Trump’s, shall we say, “nontraditional” proportions are an attempt to distract from his body size. (As we know from his appearance on Dr. Oz, Trump’s BMI of 29.5 puts him firmly in the “overweight” category, and just shy of “obese.”) David Yi points out that Trump frequently wears slimming black, and that his oversize suits “make his shoulders look brawnier while hiding his overweight body.”

Donald Trump speaks at CNN’s Town Hall in February 2016. (Photo: Getty Images)

A vigorous discussion on Quora evinces a similar theory — that the ���immense padding and overcut shoulders” of Trump’s jackets are done on purpose to balance out Trump’s sizable belly, thus giving him the illusion of the V-shaped torso we associate with powerful men. In this context, Trump’s ties are cut longer to balance his jacket’s oversize proportions.

But if Trump’s style mistakes are an attempt to fool the eye, not everyone agrees that it’s working. “Trump’s large, boxy suits and oversize ties aren’t flattering to his body type and actually make him look larger,” says men’s style expert Matthew Simko. But Simko also believes there’s a method to his style madness:

“To Trump’s pool of voters, a slick-looking guy in a crisp, well-tailored suit would actually be a turnoff,” Simko says. “Trump supporters don’t want the man in charge to be crisp or cosmopolitan.”

Donald Trump in New York City in August 2015. (Photo: Getty Images)

Indeed, Trump’s style stands in stark contrast to President Obama, who is probably the best-dressed man to hold the executive office since John Kennedy. Obama’s slim body type and well-tailored, tasteful navy suits project a sleek urbanity that’s catnip to some. But to the millions of middle Americans who just voted Trump in, well, they’re more likely to relate to the loud guy in the off-the-rack-looking suit — even if said suit costs $6,000 and is custom-made by Brioni.

After all, Trump is a man who rode a series of highly controversial statements straight into our country’s highest office. In the wake of the election that no one in the mainstream media saw coming, the country has had to reckon with the likelihood that Trump was elected precisely because of the offensive statements that earned him sneers from the mainstream media — not in spite of them.

Similarly, Trump’s style may be the product of strategic rule-flouting. Every time a menswear bible like GQ blasts Trump’s style, it can only help solidify his role as outsider and further endear him to his “regular-guy” base who could care less about good taste, in fashion or otherwise. Trump supporters “want a guy that looks like them, and despite Trump being a billionaire, that’s exactly what they got,” Simko says.

And as Yi points out, Trump’s suits are made by Brioni, “the most classic brand of all — they’d know better than to create a suit that’s anything less than impeccably tailored. But as we know, Trump gets what he wants, and what he wants is a look that can continue to fool the world.”

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This Over-the-Top Trend Was Everywhere at the Golden Globes

Tracee Ellis Ross attends the 74th Golden Globe Awards. (Photo: Getty Images)

In fashion, they say three’s a trend — so what are we to make of the fact that at least five celebs wore a major ring situation to Sunday night’s 74th Golden Globe Awards? From Tracee Ellis Ross to Drew Barrymore, we saw celebs pile on the rings – and clearly we weren’t the only ones who noticed.

Polyvore reports that searches for “sculptural rings” grew a stunning 1000% since last week – a spike we’re going to go ahead an attribute to Sunday night’s trend.

Tracee Ellis Ross wore a ring on every finger by multiple jewlery designers, including Noudar, L’Dezen by Payal Shah, and Yeprem. The rings got almost as much attention as her win for Best Actress in a TV Series, Musical or Comedy, for her role in Black-ish.

Tracee Ellis Ross wore a dazzling ring on each finger. (Photo: Getty Images)

Just when you didn’t think you couldn’t love Ellis Ross more, she told People about her rings: “I think I will hock them and give all the money to Planned Parenthood and the ACLU. It’s that kind of year, folks.” Indeed.

Drew Barrymore attends the 74th Golden Globe Awards. (Photo: Getty Images)

Meanwhile, Drew Barrymore accessorized her Monique Lhuillier dress with no less than seven diamond rings plus a pair of earrings loaned by Harry Winston, a set worth $2.5 million.

Drew Barrymore accessorizes her Golden Globes look with Harry Winston jewelry. (Photo: Getty Images)

One ring sported an 11-carat, emerald-cut diamond in a platinum band, while others had more fanciful floral designs. The most impressive featured a 37-carat South Sea pearl. Not bad, Drew.

End of night #goldenglobes #pumpkin

A photo posted by Drew Barrymore (@drewbarrymore) on Jan 8, 2017 at 9:26pm PST

Barrymore posted an Instagram of her doffed jewels at the end of the night with the caption, “End of night #goldenglobes #pumpkin.”

Janelle Monáe attends the 74th Golden Globe Awards. (Photo: Getty Images)

In addition to her much-discussed hair jewels, Janelle Monáe also wore multiple Forevermark diamond rings with her custom Armani Privé dress.

A closeup of Janelle Monáe’s stunning jewels and manicure. (Photo: Getty Images)

Her spiral and wavy diamond rings were set in white gold and platinum, and their shapes made them more fun than your typical billionaire’s bauble, and they set off her eclectic black-and-white ensemble just so.

Sofía Vergara attends the 74th Golden Globe Awards. (Photo: Getty Images)

People were not down with Sofía Vergara’s borderline-inappropriate joke when introducing Sylvester Stallone’s teenage daughters. But you can’t argue with this ring game.

Sofía Vergara mixes dramatic and traditional jewelry to complete her Golden Globes look. (Photo: Getty Images)

The actress wore three dramatic cage rings on her right hand and more traditional stones on her left (if you can consider Vergara’s massive 7-carat diamond engagement ring “traditional,” that is).

Lily Collins attends the 74th Golden Globe Awards. (Photo: Getty Images)

Actress Lily Collins gets our vote for the most subtle take on the trend, with her set of three demure, vintage Harry Winston rings. You heard it here first — hand party is the new arm party.

Follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest for nonstop inspiration delivered fresh to your feed, every day.

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10 Last-Minute Holiday Shopping Hacks That'll Save You Time, Money, and Sanity

Extreme procrastinators, this one’s for you. We’ve already given you tons of last-minute gift ideas, but if you still don’t have the first clue of what to give, take a deep breath, a shot of highly spiked egg nog, and keep reading. Ahead, 10 smart strategies for finding gifts they’ll love, and making sure they get there on time. Your sanity saved, straight ahead.

Don’t panic, check our last-minute holiday shopping hacks that’ll save you time and money. (Photo: Courtesy of J.Crew)

1. Have a Plan of Attack 

Santa makes a list and so should you, because nothing is more despair-inducing than hitting the mall the week before Christmas with no plan. Jot down everyone you’re buying for, gift ideas, and — most important — your budget for each. For the tech-inclined, the mobile app Santa’s Bag is a genius way to keep track of your gift-list progress and how much you’ve spent on everyone, so you don’t ring in 2017 with soul-crushing credit card debt.

2. Enlist the Experts

No idea what to give? Gather some intel from online gift guides first — Amazon’s are great for tech gifts and toys, J.Crew’s Present-Topia is like reading your most stylish friends’ minds, Tictail has the design snob and indie label-lover covered — and check Yahoo Style’s gift guides for more inspiration, of course.

Store staff can steer you to the right gift, too. The local bookstore employee you fear is secretly judging your true-crime addiction? Have her guide you to the next Sweetbitter for your literary fiction-loving aunt. Hit up an indie music store for recommendations for your teenage cousin who’s a newly minted music snob — trust us, record store employees live for the day when they’re asked to share their expertise.

  Check your favorite store’s website — if it looks like this, then shop away. (Photo: Courtesy of Abercrombie and Fitch)

3. Repeat After Me: It’s Never Too Late to Get a Deal

Missed the Black Friday and Cyber Monday sales? Here’s a little secret – lots of mall stores save their best sales for the week before Christmas. Proof, you demand?

Right now, you can get a mind-blowing 51% off your purchase at Gap.com with the code “HAPPY.” Abercrombie & Fitch is offering 50 percent off everything. At Ann Taylor, get 50 percent off sweaters and 40 percent off everything else. J.Crew is giving you 40 percent off everything. Macy’s is offering 40 percent to 70 percent off designer clothing and fine jewelry. For designer gifts, Barneys is offering bargains up to 70 percent off. There’s lots more out there — check your favorite store’s website and get psyched.

4. Ship It There in Time

Not so into paying more for last-minute shipping than you spent on the gift? Shop smart and you won’t have to. Stores like Urban Outfitters, Nordstrom, Target, and Overstock.com are offering free expedited holiday shipping guaranteed to arrive by Christmas Eve — hooray!

5. Get It There Today or Tomorrow (Sometimes for Free)

For extreme procrastinators, there’s the old standby: Order their gift on Amazon.com and sign up for a free trial of Amazon Prime to get free two-day shipping — in some major cities, they can even deliver the same day. Don’t plan to keep your membership? Just set yourself a calendar reminder to cancel your trial in 29 days — before they charge your credit card.

Other cities offer same-day courier services for a fee, like NYC’s Zipments or Mouth — Google “same day delivery” plus your city name to find more.

6. Cut Out the Middleman (aka, You)

At this point, every day counts — so always have your gifts shipped directly to your recipients’ door. For a few extra dollars, select the store’s gift-wrap option, and voilà – it arrives to your giftee ready to be stuck under the tree, with no effort on your part.

Wish you were a big shot with a personal assistant to handle your holiday shopping? Download the Operator app to put a personal shopper at your fingertips. (Photo: Courtesy of Operator)

7. Skip the Store Altogether

Really pressed for time? Try this boss move — have a personal assistant find your gifts for you. The mobile shopping app Operator has been called the “Uber of Fashion” — just text your personal shopper a specific item or person (“I need a gift for my Brooklyn bro cousin who loves artisanal cocktails”), and they’ll text back a list of options you can instantly purchase with your synched credit card.

8. Outsource the Shipping

Already have a gift, but can’t make it to the post office? There’s a high-tech solution for that too, of course. Use the Shyp website or app to schedule a person to pick up your gift at your home or office, pack it, and mail it anywhere. They’ll even gift wrap it for you if you need them to! It costs more, but if you’ve ever been to a post office the week before Christmas, you know this is the only thing standing between you and actual insanity.

9. Shop With Returns in Mind

Let’s be honest — sometimes, a last-minute gift is more like an IOU. You give something you’re almost sure they’ll exchange for something they want more, and everyone’s totally fine with that. So make it easy on them — always get the gift receipt, keep tags on clothing items (you can usually just snip off the price portion at the very bottom), and shop stores with stellar return policies.

Nordstrom is considered the gold standard in hassle-free returns: Most items do not require a receipt, and any associate can process a return — no standing in a miles-long line at a special window full of rejected gifts. Bloomingdale’s, Anthropologie, Zappos, REI, L.L.Bean, and Macy’s have all earned a reputation for offering no-hassle returns at (almost) any time too.

10. When in Doubt, Gift Cards – Duh

Ah, gift cards, the bastion of many a last-minute shopper. These days, you can buy gift cards online, at the mall, the grocery store, or at big-box stores like Target. But before you do, check a gift-card resale site for deals. Sites like Cardpool, Giftcard Zen, or Cardcash are where people go to sell their unused gift cards at discounts of up to 35 percent.

Just search for the store you want — and make sure you select e-gift cards, which can be given instantaneously, since there’s probably not much time to ship. These sites are also great to remember on Dec. 26 should your Christmas stocking come stuffed with a Dave and Buster’s gift card, and you’re really more of a Chipotle girl. Happy shopping!

Follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest for nonstop inspiration delivered fresh to your feed, every day.

      Pro-tip: Use credit cards for faster refunds

Anticipate Last-Minute Gifting Needs

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These Six Designers are Changing the Way Fashion Does Business

Yesterday, we began our exploration into the CFDA’s Fashion Incubator program, which leads a group of 10 emerging American designers through an intensive two-year business development program.  We spoke with the mastermind behind the program, CFDA President and CEO Steven Kolb, and with Suzanne Cohen of W Hotels, which provides participants with marketing support and far-flung inspiration trips. They shed light on how the program is strengthening the future of American fashion by giving its emerging designers a rock-solid business foundation in an unpredictable and ever-changing industry.

Today, we speak with the program’s participants – the six designers behind the labels Brother Vellies, Haus Alkire, Charles Youssef, Ji Oh, and Thaddeus O’Neil. On the night of their showcase at W Dallas Victory hotel before an audience of press, retail buyers, and fashion fans, the designers shared with Yahoo Style the struggles they face as emerging talent, their hopes for the future, and the crucial ways the Incubator is changing how they do business.

For many of the designers, that means rethinking old assumptions about what’s a must-do (like runway shows, or having tons of wholesale accounts), and instead getting laser-focused on who their customers are, and what smart growth looks like. Together, they’re proving there’s no longer just one way to succeed in fashion. Scroll on for what they’ve learned, and read part one of this series here.

Designer Aurora James of the label Brother Vellies. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

Aurora James, designer of Brother Vellies

Yahoo Style: Your brand is only three years old, but already has a huge following among fashion obsessives, and on social media. How have you achieved that visibility?

Aurora James: Winning the Vogue/CFDA Fashion fund [in 2015] was such a huge coup for us, and helped enormously with visibility. But in the end, that only goes so far – you have to build a strong business or you’re not going to make it. The amazing thing about the Incubator is it supports us as entrepreneurs, not just as designers.

Is thinking about the business side of your brand a tough leap to make?

I spent my tween and toddler years running lemonade stands, so I always had that drive! But not everyone does, and that’s why not everyone wants to have their own label. There are so many incredible designers whose names you might not know, because they’re working for someone else, which is just as amazing, and even harder sometimes.

So you never wish you went that route?

Oh, every day, I’m like ‘Imagine if I worked for whoever, and got paid every two weeks, that would be uh-mazing!’ I think the smart people do that! To be a designer, you have to have creativity, some level of business acumen, and be a certain level of dumb. [laughs]

Steven Kolb told me he advises emerging designers to have one item that’s the focus of their brand – what is that for you?

I want Brother Vellies to be known for as a company that supports artisanal communities, and makes beautiful things in a beautiful way. We’re at the point now where we can no longer afford to be wasteful – and being wasteful is not luxury. Making something out of plastic is not luxury – I don’t care if it has two C’s on it. Having appreciation for fashion as an art form, knowing how it’s made, who made it, what the materials are, how they’re dyed – real fashion connoisseurs care about that stuff, not so much the trend of the moment. I hope I’m building the kind of brand that attracts that customer.

A few of Brother Vellies’ signature cheeky accessories. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

How are new people discovering your brand?

It’s really interesting, we get such a wide variety of press. For example, Better Homes and Gardens has given us just as much coverage as American Vogue – in fact, they covered me before Vogue did! So our customers are very diverse. The shoes hit a wide variety of people. A lot of my customers are moms, who know they can do it all and be it all, and want to be epic when they’re dropping off their kids in the morning.

That’s the dream, isn’t it?

Totally. When I think of Dallas, I think of Kimberly Chandler – she used to live here and is totally that woman – three kids, looking epic every day. Obviously that’s very aspirational and not everyone can be like that – but if you’re throwing on your sweatpants, you may as well throw on a furry low heel to go with it.

Where do you hope to take the brand for the future?

Everyone always gets a panic attack when I talk about my goals – they’re like SLOW DOWN! But I started my label three years ago. If I’d said I could do all this in three years, people would have laughed. So for me it’s about expanding into more categories, while maintaining a strong focus on keeping our core products – bags and shoes – as strong as possible. But I think our customer wants and needs more, and there’s space for us in the market.

What have you learned from your fellow designers?

Well, Thaddeus tried to teach me how to surf in Mexico! I was not so good at that. Haus Alkire taught me the value of knowing the names of every single one of their customers – which they do, because they have retail. They inspire me – now I log onto our website and look at the names of the people that are buying stuff, and I recognize their names when they comment on social media, and chat with them there. The value of engaging with our community has been a huge lesson for me here. And Ji [Oh] taught me how to wear a shirt like a boss and be casual chic – her shirt game is strong. She’s amazing!

Designer Ji Oh at the W/CFDA Showcase in Dallas (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

Designer Ji Oh

Yahoo Style: What’s been your experience of the Incubator program?

Ji Oh: The Incubator has been amazing. Before I joined, I didn’t know exactly how it worked – I just knew it’d help me. It’s even more than I could have imagined. You have 4-5 mentors in all different categories: e-commerce, merchandising, marketing. If you paid for those consulting services, it would be an insane amount of money. And they’re very involved – they watch you like they’re your mom: ‘Are you okay? Should I come in?’ [laughs]

What’s been most useful for you?

Everything! Because I really had no structure before, I was just designing and giving it to my sales team. This program’s been so valuable in helping me think deeply and strategize on the business side of my label.

Any changes as a result of being in the program?

One big change is I’m not doing runway shows anymore – or at least not until I make so much money. [laughs] I’m learning how to get in touch with customers personally and creating other communication channels, because shows obviously aren’t a very cost-effective way of reaching people. I did shows for years and it was great for putting myself out there and raising my profile, but at this point I need to focus on developing the fundamentals really strongly.

A model walks the runway in Ji Oh’s fringed dress at the W/CFDA Showcase in Dallas. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

I think it used to be that having a runway show was a sign of legitimacy for a young designer.

Exactly. But not anymore. So much change is going on right now that people aren’t afraid they’ll be judged for not doing a show – it’s like, ‘who cares!’ My big goal is to refine how I’m getting my brand connected with customers, and customers don’t get to go to runway shows anyway. Of course shows are important for press people, but we can see them through appointments. So it’s rethinking all these assumptions you make your first few years in business.

So how are you getting in touch with your customers?

That’s the challenge, because I’m a wholesaler, so I don’t speak with them directly. I’m always getting feedback from my sales team, but it’s not a direct relationship. But I launched e-commerce three months ago, and that’s been so interesting, because customers are buying things that [retail] buyers don’t. So you need to have both. And being active on social media has been really big, especially posting more personal things – me trying on clothes, or posting what I’m doing that day. I used to think people could get a sense of me from the collection, but they actually value having more insight into your life. And the more I give that to them, the more strongly they feel about the brand. Learning that has been big.

What advice have you received that’s been most valuable to you?

Shirts have always been the core of my collection, but of course I wanted to do jackets, pants, and everything else too. So my advisors helped me understand that it’s important to have a core message – like when you look at my label, you can immediately see ‘it’s about shirting, and strong, oversized shapes.’ And to be known for that first, before you go expanding into everything else. Having a really strong message, and learning to edit has been a key lesson.

Sounds like you’re getting much more strategic.

Yes. It’s amazing looking back and seeing the mistakes I made in the past – now I think I was so brave to do all that!

Designer Charles Youssef at the W/CFDA Showcase in Dallas. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

Designer Charles Youssef

Yahoo Style: What are you hoping to get from your time in the Incubator?

Charles Youssef: I was looking for mentorship, and to get my clothes in front of important people. The CFDA has been wonderful about connecting us with very influential buyers, press, and editors to get their feedback. One of my mentors is the former CEO of Marc Jacobs, and of Oscar de la Renta, and helped grow them into what they are today, and he’s been an invaluable source of advice on growing my brand. He’s very available – he just give you his heart and soul.

Having the CFDA behind you must be a game-changer.

Absolutely. We recently had a showcase where every important buyer and press person came through – Bergdorf’s, Barneys, Saks, Vogue. If we were just emailing on our own, these are people it’s impossible to get a meeting with – but having the CFDA behind you changes everything.

What challenges do you face as an emerging designer?

It’s two things. One is sales and growing your distribution, and the other thing, which ties into it, is brand awareness. It takes time for people to know who you are, the trick is accelerating that as much as you can.

So what advice have you gotten on that front?

One of the most important things for me has been meeting directly with the women who I think would want to buy my clothes – asking them questions about what they like and need from their clothing. I did a trunk show on the Upper East Side recently, and it was such a great opportunity to listen to them, introduce them to the clothes, and they gave me a ton of new information.

Like what?

One thing they told me is a lot of them have fake boobs. So if they’re a size six, it’s not a typical size six – they need different consideration in how their garment fits. A lot of them said they like to have their arms covered down to their elbows. Or they like clothes for specific occasions – they always have an event in mind when they’re shopping, whether it’s a friend’s wedding, or a gala they’re attending. Just so much great, specific feedback.

So has that changed the way you design?

It’s things I can now keep in mind when I’m designing. Because I have a more uptown, dressed-up customer, I make sure I have certain things covered within my collection. Having a dress with a sleeve is important, having dresses that are fitted with stretch so that multiple sizes can wear it.

A model wears one of Charles Youssef’s best-selling dresses at the W/CFDA Showcase in Dallas. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

How does social media play into your marketing plan?

Social media is so important for generating awareness, and sales too – now people shop on Instagram and Facebook. We’ve had a store buyer Instagram herself wearing my trousers, and they sell out. Another time the Wall Street Journal posted a piece on its Instagram, and it sold out in one day.

You wouldn’t think WSJ was the most fashion-focused customer.

Right, but it’s a customer that has disposable income. We’ll have a piece featured in Elle or Vogue, and it’s great for generating brand awareness, but it doesn’t necessarily affect sales. But the woman who’s reading, say Women’s Health or the Wall Street Journal, she will go out and buy what she sees there.

What are your big-picture hopes for the brand?

I want to grow in every way possible. More brand awareness, developing direct-to-consumer sales. I’m excited to expand our e-commerce, which is very embryonic at this point, but I’m working with the woman who founded ShopSpring, she’s helping us drive traffic to the site, especially via social media, and get people shopping. That’s very exciting.

Ji Oh was telling me that e-commerce is an eye-opening experience, because customers buy different things than retail does.

I’ve definitely seen that difference at my trunk shows. A lot of [retail] buyers buy very limited sizes – 0, 2, 4, 6, 8 – and then they stop. But the women at my trunk shows have disposable income, they love fashion – but they’re not teenagers. The majority of them are 8, 10, 12 or larger. So I’ve learned the importance of having those sizes, and having fits that work for them.

How do these trunk shows work?

There’s a group of women on the Upper East Side who host trunk shows in their homes, and invite all their friends, have a drink, and buy clothing. And I’m there, getting to know everyone and introducing them to my collection in a really personal way. They’ve been great.

What’s been the best part of the Incubator for you?

Developing a community where designers can support each other. The industry right now feels a little unstable – with buy-now-wear-now, and department stores feeling a little empty – people don’t seem to be shopping like they used to. If I were on my own, it could be a concerning time. But having this network, especially under the guidance of the CFDA, gives us this assurance that we’ll weather it, and that we’re all headed in the right direction together.

Designer Thaddeus O’Neilat the W/CFDA Showcase in Dallas. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

Designer Thaddeus O’Neil

Yahoo Style: What’s been your experience of the Incubator program?

Thaddeus O’Neil: It’s been incredible. We have amazing mentors – and there’s no one in this business who couldn’t benefit from advice in some category, from merchandising to production to PR. This program offers all that to us – whatever you need you have for your business, those resources are there.

What kind of support from CFDA are you getting?

It’s about putting those talented and knowledgeable people at your fingertips, and then it’s up to you. They don’t spoon-feed you – but if you have questions, it’s invaluable to know exactly who to call.

Why is Dallas an important place for you to grow your business?

It’s funny because everyone’s asking me, ‘Why aren’t you going to L.A.?’ And of course I’ve been to L.A., and I love L.A., but Texas people have big hearts, big spirits. So I’m here bringing the beach to Dallas.

Thaddeus O’Neil and models take the runway at the W/CFDA Showcase in Dallas. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

People in Dallas love to get dressed too.

Absolutely. It’s a community that loves clothes, and loves to get dressed for an occasion, but also just for every day life. These days, people don’t want big, fussy clothes – they want something they can wear every day, and still feel chic in, and that’s what my brand is all about. Elevated casual wear that works just as well on the beach as it does walking down Broadway in Manhattan.

What have you learned from your fellow designers?

What’s so great about it is, you have 10 designers, and we’ve all walked through some fires with building our business, as you do. For example, I recently had a customer in the UK purchase $2,000 of merchandise though my website, and then there’s the challenge of getting that to the UK – turns out, the duties were 500 bucks. So I was going around to every designer that day saying, ‘What should I do?’ And we talked it over and I ended up covering the duties. But it’s great to have other people in the business you can bounce ideas or problems off of, so you’re not constantly reinventing the wheel.

That’s funny because as a shopper, I might not even think how purchasing from a small designer in another country might present a logistical problem like that.

Right. And of course, I want my clothes to be worn on the streets of London, in Taiwan, I want them everywhere, so you’re going to ship it. But shoppers have been ‘Amazoned.’ The expectation is that something should arrive the next day, and if you don’t like it, you ship it back. But we’re emerging designers, so you’re actually buying rare pieces. I might make just 20 pieces of my outerwear, or 200 of a top. There’s not warehouses of this stuff sitting around anywhere, and the smaller scale means you do business differently.

What do you see for the future of your brand?

I want to keep growing it and I want my brand to still be here 25, 30 years from now, and see what a different animal it is then. I bet every designer who lasts looks back with nostalgia on those early days when you’re busting your ass.

And only making 20 parkas.

Exactly. I just want to keep doing what I’m doing and see it grow.

Julie and Jason Alkire of the label Haus Alkire. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

Julie and Jason Alkire of the label Haus Alkire.

Yahoo Style: A few of the other designers have mentioned that you inspire them, because you know the names of almost all your customers

Jason: Maybe not all, but a lot. And that comes from having our own retail store in Tribeca. A lot of designers, their sales are mediated by retail buyers, but we’ve always been able to have that really direct connection, which is so valuable I think.

What were you hoping to get out of the Incubator?

Julie: We wanted to step outside our bubble. So we have the store in Tribeca, and even though we were doing some things for Fashion Week, we often felt like we were in our own world. What we’ve realized is what everyone in the industry has realized, that this business has changed so much, even in the last three or four years.

Jason: And what works for some brands may not work for everyone.

Julie: So we wanted to create a business that makes sense for us and our goals, and to define what success means to us. For some people that’s a revenue amount, or great editorial coverage, how many stores they’re in. For us, we started out doing direct to consumer sales, so the next phase is building relationships with a handful of wonderful wholesale partners that have the same common goals – as opposed to just selling as many wholesalers as we can, and not necessarily having the greatest relationship with each.

Models wear Haus Alkire’s designs at the W/CFDA Showcase in Dallas. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

What have been the challenges of having direct retail at this early phase of your brand, in addition to designing?

Jason: It’s been great, but it definitely takes a lot of time. It’s easy to be in the store, and get lost in that world – suddenly a day’s gone by, and that may be time you also need to be spending doing PR and everything else. So the Incubator is helping us focus, figure out what we can do better, and what we can pull back on so our time is better-spent.

Julie: Also, merchandising for a single store is so different than doing at a multi-brand [store]. At our store, we’re the only story in the room. At a department store or boutique, people have to be able to walk in, and instantly “get” your collection – even just from one rack.

How has this program helped you with those challenges?

Julie: The CFDA has been so great in helping us refine our message so we can develop those wholesale relationships, and we can define ourselves in a retail environment. And of course flying us around the world to personally introduce our collections, like here in Dallas. That’s an incredible thing – we could never afford to do that otherwise!

What does success look like for your brand?

Julie: We’re not trying to be everything to everybody. But the people who get our collection, absolutely love it. So we’re learning how to find those people, and to help them find us. And that’s what makes us the most excited.

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These 6 Designers Are Changing the Way Fashion Does Business

Yesterday, we began our exploration into the CFDA’s Fashion Incubator program, which leads a group of 10 emerging American designers through an intensive two-year business development program.  We spoke with the mastermind behind the program, CFDA President and CEO Steven Kolb, and with Suzanne Cohen of W Hotels, which provides participants with marketing support and far-flung inspiration trips. They shed light on how the program is strengthening the future of American fashion by giving its emerging designers a rock-solid business foundation in an unpredictable and ever-changing industry.

Today, we speak with the program’s participants – the six designers behind the labels Brother Vellies, Haus Alkire, Charles Youssef, Ji Oh, and Thaddeus O’Neil. On the night of their showcase at W Dallas Victory hotel before an audience of press, retail buyers, and fashion fans, the designers shared with Yahoo Style the struggles they face as emerging talent, their hopes for the future, and the crucial ways the Incubator is changing how they do business.

For many of the designers, that means rethinking old assumptions about what’s a must-do (like runway shows, or having tons of wholesale accounts), and instead getting laser-focused on who their customers are, and what smart growth looks like. Together, they’re proving there’s no longer just one way to succeed in fashion. Scroll on for what they’ve learned, and read part one of this series here.

Designer Aurora James of the label Brother Vellies. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

Aurora James, designer of Brother Vellies

Yahoo Style: Your brand is only three years old, but already has a huge following among fashion obsessives, and on social media. How have you achieved that visibility?

Aurora James: Winning the Vogue/CFDA Fashion fund [in 2015] was such a huge coup for us, and helped enormously with visibility. But in the end, that only goes so far – you have to build a strong business or you’re not going to make it. The amazing thing about the Incubator is it supports us as entrepreneurs, not just as designers.

Is thinking about the business side of your brand a tough leap to make?

I spent my tween and toddler years running lemonade stands, so I always had that drive! But not everyone does, and that’s why not everyone wants to have their own label. There are so many incredible designers whose names you might not know, because they’re working for someone else, which is just as amazing, and even harder sometimes.

So you never wish you went that route?

Oh, every day, I’m like ‘Imagine if I worked for whoever, and got paid every two weeks, that would be uh-mazing!’ I think the smart people do that! To be a designer, you have to have creativity, some level of business acumen, and be a certain level of dumb. [laughs]

Steven Kolb told me he advises emerging designers to have one item that’s the focus of their brand – what is that for you?

I want Brother Vellies to be known for as a company that supports artisanal communities, and makes beautiful things in a beautiful way. We’re at the point now where we can no longer afford to be wasteful – and being wasteful is not luxury. Making something out of plastic is not luxury – I don’t care if it has two C’s on it. Having appreciation for fashion as an art form, knowing how it’s made, who made it, what the materials are, how they’re dyed – real fashion connoisseurs care about that stuff, not so much the trend of the moment. I hope I’m building the kind of brand that attracts that customer.

A few of Brother Vellies’ signature cheeky accessories. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

How are new people discovering your brand?

It’s really interesting, we get such a wide variety of press. For example, Better Homes and Gardens has given us just as much coverage as American Vogue – in fact, they covered me before Vogue did! So our customers are very diverse. The shoes hit a wide variety of people. A lot of my customers are moms, who know they can do it all and be it all, and want to be epic when they’re dropping off their kids in the morning.

That’s the dream, isn’t it?

Totally. When I think of Dallas, I think of Kimberly Chandler – she used to live here and is totally that woman – three kids, looking epic every day. Obviously that’s very aspirational and not everyone can be like that – but if you’re throwing on your sweatpants, you may as well throw on a furry low heel to go with it.

Where do you hope to take the brand for the future?

Everyone always gets a panic attack when I talk about my goals – they’re like SLOW DOWN! But I started my label three years ago. If I’d said I could do all this in three years, people would have laughed. So for me it’s about expanding into more categories, while maintaining a strong focus on keeping our core products – bags and shoes – as strong as possible. But I think our customer wants and needs more, and there’s space for us in the market.

What have you learned from your fellow designers?

Well, Thaddeus tried to teach me how to surf in Mexico! I was not so good at that. Haus Alkire taught me the value of knowing the names of every single one of their customers – which they do, because they have retail. They inspire me – now I log onto our website and look at the names of the people that are buying stuff, and I recognize their names when they comment on social media, and chat with them there. The value of engaging with our community has been a huge lesson for me here. And Ji [Oh] taught me how to wear a shirt like a boss and be casual chic – her shirt game is strong. She’s amazing!

Designer Ji Oh at the W/CFDA Showcase in Dallas (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

Designer Ji Oh

Yahoo Style: What’s been your experience of the Incubator program?

Ji Oh: The Incubator has been amazing. Before I joined, I didn’t know exactly how it worked – I just knew it’d help me. It’s even more than I could have imagined. You have 4-5 mentors in all different categories: e-commerce, merchandising, marketing. If you paid for those consulting services, it would be an insane amount of money. And they’re very involved – they watch you like they’re your mom: ‘Are you okay? Should I come in?’ [laughs]

What’s been most useful for you?

Everything! Because I really had no structure before, I was just designing and giving it to my sales team. This program’s been so valuable in helping me think deeply and strategize on the business side of my label.

Any changes as a result of being in the program?

One big change is I’m not doing runway shows anymore – or at least not until I make so much money. [laughs] I’m learning how to get in touch with customers personally and creating other communication channels, because shows obviously aren’t a very cost-effective way of reaching people. I did shows for years and it was great for putting myself out there and raising my profile, but at this point I need to focus on developing the fundamentals really strongly.

A model walks the runway in Ji Oh’s fringed dress at the W/CFDA Showcase in Dallas. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

I think it used to be that having a runway show was a sign of legitimacy for a young designer.

Exactly. But not anymore. So much change is going on right now that people aren’t afraid they’ll be judged for not doing a show – it’s like, ‘who cares!’ My big goal is to refine how I’m getting my brand connected with customers, and customers don’t get to go to runway shows anyway. Of course shows are important for press people, but we can see them through appointments. So it’s rethinking all these assumptions you make your first few years in business.

So how are you getting in touch with your customers?

That’s the challenge, because I’m a wholesaler, so I don’t speak with them directly. I’m always getting feedback from my sales team, but it’s not a direct relationship. But I launched e-commerce three months ago, and that’s been so interesting, because customers are buying things that [retail] buyers don’t. So you need to have both. And being active on social media has been really big, especially posting more personal things – me trying on clothes, or posting what I’m doing that day. I used to think people could get a sense of me from the collection, but they actually value having more insight into your life. And the more I give that to them, the more strongly they feel about the brand. Learning that has been big.

What advice have you received that’s been most valuable to you?

Shirts have always been the core of my collection, but of course I wanted to do jackets, pants, and everything else too. So my advisors helped me understand that it’s important to have a core message – like when you look at my label, you can immediately see ‘it’s about shirting, and strong, oversized shapes.’ And to be known for that first, before you go expanding into everything else. Having a really strong message, and learning to edit has been a key lesson.

Sounds like you’re getting much more strategic.

Yes. It’s amazing looking back and seeing the mistakes I made in the past – now I think I was so brave to do all that!

Designer Charles Youssef at the W/CFDA Showcase in Dallas. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

Designer Charles Youssef

Yahoo Style: What are you hoping to get from your time in the Incubator?

Charles Youssef: I was looking for mentorship, and to get my clothes in front of important people. The CFDA has been wonderful about connecting us with very influential buyers, press, and editors to get their feedback. One of my mentors is the former CEO of Marc Jacobs, and of Oscar de la Renta, and helped grow them into what they are today, and he’s been an invaluable source of advice on growing my brand. He’s very available – he just give you his heart and soul.

Having the CFDA behind you must be a game-changer.

Absolutely. We recently had a showcase where every important buyer and press person came through – Bergdorf’s, Barneys, Saks, Vogue. If we were just emailing on our own, these are people it’s impossible to get a meeting with – but having the CFDA behind you changes everything.

What challenges do you face as an emerging designer?

It’s two things. One is sales and growing your distribution, and the other thing, which ties into it, is brand awareness. It takes time for people to know who you are, the trick is accelerating that as much as you can.

So what advice have you gotten on that front?

One of the most important things for me has been meeting directly with the women who I think would want to buy my clothes – asking them questions about what they like and need from their clothing. I did a trunk show on the Upper East Side recently, and it was such a great opportunity to listen to them, introduce them to the clothes, and they gave me a ton of new information.

Like what?

One thing they told me is a lot of them have fake boobs. So if they’re a size six, it’s not a typical size six – they need different consideration in how their garment fits. A lot of them said they like to have their arms covered down to their elbows. Or they like clothes for specific occasions – they always have an event in mind when they’re shopping, whether it’s a friend’s wedding, or a gala they’re attending. Just so much great, specific feedback.

So has that changed the way you design?

It’s things I can now keep in mind when I’m designing. Because I have a more uptown, dressed-up customer, I make sure I have certain things covered within my collection. Having a dress with a sleeve is important, having dresses that are fitted with stretch so that multiple sizes can wear it.

A model wears one of Charles Youssef’s best-selling dresses at the W/CFDA Showcase in Dallas. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

How does social media play into your marketing plan?

Social media is so important for generating awareness, and sales too – now people shop on Instagram and Facebook. We’ve had a store buyer Instagram herself wearing my trousers, and they sell out. Another time the Wall Street Journal posted a piece on its Instagram, and it sold out in one day.

You wouldn’t think WSJ was the most fashion-focused customer.

Right, but it’s a customer that has disposable income. We’ll have a piece featured in Elle or Vogue, and it’s great for generating brand awareness, but it doesn’t necessarily affect sales. But the woman who’s reading, say Women’s Health or the Wall Street Journal, she will go out and buy what she sees there.

What are your big-picture hopes for the brand?

I want to grow in every way possible. More brand awareness, developing direct-to-consumer sales. I’m excited to expand our e-commerce, which is very embryonic at this point, but I’m working with the woman who founded ShopSpring, she’s helping us drive traffic to the site, especially via social media, and get people shopping. That’s very exciting.

Ji Oh was telling me that e-commerce is an eye-opening experience, because customers buy different things than retail does.

I’ve definitely seen that difference at my trunk shows. A lot of [retail] buyers buy very limited sizes – 0, 2, 4, 6, 8 – and then they stop. But the women at my trunk shows have disposable income, they love fashion – but they’re not teenagers. The majority of them are 8, 10, 12 or larger. So I’ve learned the importance of having those sizes, and having fits that work for them.

How do these trunk shows work?

There’s a group of women on the Upper East Side who host trunk shows in their homes, and invite all their friends, have a drink, and buy clothing. And I’m there, getting to know everyone and introducing them to my collection in a really personal way. They’ve been great.

What’s been the best part of the Incubator for you?

Developing a community where designers can support each other. The industry right now feels a little unstable – with buy-now-wear-now, and department stores feeling a little empty – people don’t seem to be shopping like they used to. If I were on my own, it could be a concerning time. But having this network, especially under the guidance of the CFDA, gives us this assurance that we’ll weather it, and that we’re all headed in the right direction together.

Designer Thaddeus O’Neilat the W/CFDA Showcase in Dallas. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

Designer Thaddeus O’Neil

Yahoo Style: What’s been your experience of the Incubator program?

Thaddeus O’Neil: It’s been incredible. We have amazing mentors – and there’s no one in this business who couldn’t benefit from advice in some category, from merchandising to production to PR. This program offers all that to us – whatever you need you have for your business, those resources are there.

What kind of support from CFDA are you getting?

It’s about putting those talented and knowledgeable people at your fingertips, and then it’s up to you. They don’t spoon-feed you – but if you have questions, it’s invaluable to know exactly who to call.

Why is Dallas an important place for you to grow your business?

It’s funny because everyone’s asking me, ‘Why aren’t you going to L.A.?’ And of course I’ve been to L.A., and I love L.A., but Texas people have big hearts, big spirits. So I’m here bringing the beach to Dallas.

Thaddeus O’Neil and models take the runway at the W/CFDA Showcase in Dallas. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

People in Dallas love to get dressed too.

Absolutely. It’s a community that loves clothes, and loves to get dressed for an occasion, but also just for every day life. These days, people don’t want big, fussy clothes – they want something they can wear every day, and still feel chic in, and that’s what my brand is all about. Elevated casual wear that works just as well on the beach as it does walking down Broadway in Manhattan.

What have you learned from your fellow designers?

What’s so great about it is, you have 10 designers, and we’ve all walked through some fires with building our business, as you do. For example, I recently had a customer in the UK purchase $2,000 of merchandise though my website, and then there’s the challenge of getting that to the UK – turns out, the duties were 500 bucks. So I was going around to every designer that day saying, ‘What should I do?’ And we talked it over and I ended up covering the duties. But it’s great to have other people in the business you can bounce ideas or problems off of, so you’re not constantly reinventing the wheel.

That’s funny because as a shopper, I might not even think how purchasing from a small designer in another country might present a logistical problem like that.

Right. And of course, I want my clothes to be worn on the streets of London, in Taiwan, I want them everywhere, so you’re going to ship it. But shoppers have been ‘Amazoned.’ The expectation is that something should arrive the next day, and if you don’t like it, you ship it back. But we’re emerging designers, so you’re actually buying rare pieces. I might make just 20 pieces of my outerwear, or 200 of a top. There’s not warehouses of this stuff sitting around anywhere, and the smaller scale means you do business differently.

What do you see for the future of your brand?

I want to keep growing it and I want my brand to still be here 25, 30 years from now, and see what a different animal it is then. I bet every designer who lasts looks back with nostalgia on those early days when you’re busting your ass.

And only making 20 parkas.

Exactly. I just want to keep doing what I’m doing and see it grow.

Julie and Jason Alkire of the label Haus Alkire. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

Julie and Jason Alkire of the label Haus Alkire.

Yahoo Style: A few of the other designers have mentioned that you inspire them, because you know the names of almost all your customers

Jason: Maybe not all, but a lot. And that comes from having our own retail store in Tribeca. A lot of designers, their sales are mediated by retail buyers, but we’ve always been able to have that really direct connection, which is so valuable I think.

What were you hoping to get out of the Incubator?

Julie: We wanted to step outside our bubble. So we have the store in Tribeca, and even though we were doing some things for Fashion Week, we often felt like we were in our own world. What we’ve realized is what everyone in the industry has realized, that this business has changed so much, even in the last three or four years.

Jason: And what works for some brands may not work for everyone.

Julie: So we wanted to create a business that makes sense for us and our goals, and to define what success means to us. For some people that’s a revenue amount, or great editorial coverage, how many stores they’re in. For us, we started out doing direct to consumer sales, so the next phase is building relationships with a handful of wonderful wholesale partners that have the same common goals – as opposed to just selling as many wholesalers as we can, and not necessarily having the greatest relationship with each.

Models wear Haus Alkire’s designs at the W/CFDA Showcase in Dallas. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

What have been the challenges of having direct retail at this early phase of your brand, in addition to designing?

Jason: It’s been great, but it definitely takes a lot of time. It’s easy to be in the store, and get lost in that world – suddenly a day’s gone by, and that may be time you also need to be spending doing PR and everything else. So the Incubator is helping us focus, figure out what we can do better, and what we can pull back on so our time is better-spent.

Julie: Also, merchandising for a single store is so different than doing at a multi-brand [store]. At our store, we’re the only story in the room. At a department store or boutique, people have to be able to walk in, and instantly “get” your collection – even just from one rack.

How has this program helped you with those challenges?

Julie: The CFDA has been so great in helping us refine our message so we can develop those wholesale relationships, and we can define ourselves in a retail environment. And of course flying us around the world to personally introduce our collections, like here in Dallas. That’s an incredible thing – we could never afford to do that otherwise!

What does success look like for your brand?

Julie: We’re not trying to be everything to everybody. But the people who get our collection, absolutely love it. So we’re learning how to find those people, and to help them find us. And that’s what makes us the most excited.

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How the CFDA and W Hotels Are Shaping the Future of American Fashion

Designers in the CFDA Fashion Incubator program pose before their showcase at the W Victory Hotel in Dallas. (Photo: Courtesy CFDA + W Hotels)

In an increasingly crowded fashion market, building a brand that’s both successful and sustainable is no easy task — just ask the many labels, from big-name startups to indie ventures, that fail each year. But since 2010, emerging New York City-based designers have found a champion in the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s Fashion Incubator, a two-year business development program that brings together 10 emerging designers for intensive business planning, mentorship with industry experts, and low-cost studio space.

But it’s not all work. As a glam counterpoint to all that nitty-gritty business-building, W Hotels also treats Incubator participants to bonding and inspiration trips at its portfolio of luxury resorts at destinations like Bali, Vieques, and W’s newest property in Punta de Mita, Mexico. Altogether, the Incubator functions sort of like the world’s most fabulous MBA program — only with tequila shots, and without a $150K IOU to Sallie Mae.

Another crucial part of the Incubator program is introducing the designers to markets that are important to building their brand. Recently, the designers behind the labels Brother Vellies, Haus Alkire, Charles Youssef, Ji Oh, and Thaddeus O’Neil traveled to Dallas to meet with local business owners and retail buyers, take in the gallery scene, have high tea at the original Neiman Marcus, and snap lots of Instagrams, naturally. On the final night, they showcased their designs at the W Dallas Victory hotel for an audience of buyers, influencers, fashion fans, and press, including Yahoo Style.

In this, the first of two articles, we speak with CFDA president and CEO Steven Kolb, and Suzanne Cohen, the director of brand marketing for W Hotels, to learn about how the Incubator is building smarter fashion brands. Check back tomorrow for our interviews with the designers on the impact the program has had on their business.

Steven Kolb, president and CEO of the CFDA, poses with Showcase guests in Dallas, including street-style star Taylor Tomasi Hill. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

Steven Kolb, president and CEO of the CFDA

Yahoo Style: How do you see the CFDA’s role in developing fashion talent?

Steven Kolb: The whole mission of the CFDA is to support designers, because we realize that the power and success of the American fashion industry lies in supporting them at every stage of their career. For emerging talent like these Incubator brands, there’s so much knowledge and expertise we can share with them, from people who may have made the mistakes and been through all the challenges, and can help them avoid pitfalls and take the right path. We believe an investment in young talent is an investment in the industry overall.

The Incubator program is just one of the ways CFDA supports the American fashion industry.

Everything we do looks at the lifeline of the designers. So we start with students — offering scholarships, helping them establish themselves with jobs in American brands, or helping them establish their own businesses. Then we look at emerging designers, like those in the Incubator — people who have been in business for three years or so. They have distribution, they’re getting editorial [coverage] — they’ve built something but are still in need of development. After that comes the small-business owner who can share ideas, job opportunities, information on policy, new trends, and so on. And then there are the really big guys, the established designers, who work with us to promote the industry overall, and help upcoming designers.

What impact have you seen the Incubator have on participating designers’ businesses?

We’ve had designers who expanded their use of color following a discussion with retailers, based on what they know customers respond to. We’ve had buyers come into the shared studio space to pick up one designer, and they end up picking up another one for distribution too – that’s something that wouldn’t happen if the designers were all isolated from each other. There’s probably hundreds of examples. Overall, the Incubator helps designers develop clarity on their ideas, and confidence on those ideas.

  The run of show, backstage at the W Dallas Victory. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

The program has been around since only 2010, but have you already found you’ve had to adapt it around changes in technology and the rise of social media?

This is our fourth Incubator group, so, yes, seven years later, the business is very different than when we started. It changes so fast, it’s different tonight than yesterday, and that’s true for all parts of the fashion business, from design to editorial, retail, manufacturing. So we’ve definitely adapted over the course of the program to fit the needs of the participants. The Incubator group in 2010 was focused on distribution — building a wholesale model. Now, that’s less important. Now we’re helping designers understand and develop different distribution channels, like direct to consumer, or helping them think differently about how to present a collection to the industry, which may not always mean a runway show.

The Incubator participants go through a rigorous selection process. Is choosing the right mix of designers important to the CFDA?

It’s a roll of the dice, really. We pick them carefully, but individually, not by categories. It’s not like we need X number of women’s wear, Y number of accessory designers. It’s more about who is talented, who has a point of view, and who can we help go to the next level in their business. The group ends up being pretty diverse, which is great, and reflects the number of disciplines within New York fashion.

How do you see the Incubator participants interacting as a group?

It’s so interesting watching those relationships form. With the third [Incubator] group, one thing we started with W Hotels, which has been incredibly powerful, is the whole group went to Punta de Mita, Mexico, for a two-day off-site intensive. We were the first ones to stay at this incredible property the W had just opened. The designers were spending intensive time with the CFDA, with the W team, beginning to define their priorities within the program — mapping out their inspiration trip, what cities are of interest to them for these showcases. And beyond that, they’re going surfing together, doing yoga together, taking tequila shots together. For another group, we had a similar trip to the W in Vieques [Puerto Rico].

I stayed there this summer — it was unreal.

Then you know what an incredible experience that is. So it’s on these trips where those relationships and bonds start to form. I think it was group two where Prabal [Gurung] and Maxwell [Osbourne] and Dao-Yi Chow of Public School were in it together, and they’re still friends now — you see them at each other’s shows and events. We’re in the early stages of that with this group, but that bond is something that’s for life. It’s so valuable to have someone to vent with and share knowledge with. Whether it’s where do you do knits, or where did you get that fabric? How do you get in touch with [Harper’s Bazaar’s] Glenda Bailey? It becomes this really exciting group of shared ideas. That’s what we’re building on these trips with W.

Julie Alkire of Haus Alkire preps for her showcase in Dallas. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

What specific services does the program offer?

One of the first things they do is spend a semester working with an MBA student from NYU’s Stern School. That’s like having a McKinsey [consultant] working with you. So right away, they’re refining their business strategy and learning to be fiscally responsible, things that aren’t always front-of-mind for creatively focused people.

From talking with designers, it seems like the program helps them think critically about the costs associated with their business.

Bringing that into their business is so important. It’s easy to be seduced by the glamour of a big fashion show and feeling like you have to one in order to be legitimate. If nothing else, the designers come out of the Incubator knowing — don’t do things you can’t afford, do it the best you can, and focus on the product. That’s the biggest part of what they get out of this.

What advice do you find yourself giving to every young designer?

It’s funny, the one thing everyone asks is ‘How do I find an investor?’ And sometimes, that’s not a realistic question, or the person asking isn’t ready for that. So I tell everyone, focus on product. Build a strong financial business. Have a core item — with Ji [Oh], it’s shirting — and really focus on that, don’t worry about being a lifestyle brand. You have to build the business and be smart financially, because getting investors take time. We teach perseverance and how to be ready when those opportunities come along.

Suzanne Cohen, the W Hotels director of marketing, makes a toast at a pre-showcase dinner. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

Suzanne Cohen, director of marketing for W Hotels Worldwide

Yahoo Style: How does W Hotels see its involvement in the CFDA Incubator?

Suzanne Cohen: W Hotels’ role is to give designers the chance to get the global exposure they need to help grow their businesses. That can mean anything from the budget and space for tonight’s showcase, trips to get inspired, exposure through our hotels worldwide — things that wouldn’t otherwise be possible for an emerging brand.

W has built its brand around being the hip person’s hotel — how does this partnership build on that?

We’re about providing our point of view on what’s new and next and offering insider access to all our guests, so it’s natural that we’d want to nurture this emerging talent and bring it to our guests.

Tell us more about the showcase and inspiration trips that W provides.

There’s actually is a business reason for everything in the program — so at the beginning, we meet with each designer to map out how each part of the plan can be beneficial to their business, from the showcase to the inspiration trip. With showcases like the one here in Dallas, each designer gets in front of a market, which is crucial — meeting buyers, retailers, editors, stylists, the local community. All the designers agree getting that feedback and hearing what consumers think is so valuable.

Table settings for a pre-showcase dinner at W Dallas Victory’s Cook Hall restaurant. (Photo: Courtesy of CFDA + W Hotels)

Inspiration trips are another thing a busy young designer may not take time for.

Everyone in the creative industry is so busy, and taking the time to get inspiration is so valuable and coveted. We have the designers look at our locations around the world and decide which one will be beneficial for them, not from a business-building perspective but for their creative process. It’s about having that time away from home, where you’re seeing things, meeting people, tasting the local cuisine, touching fabrics, just taking it in. All those things you don’t get to do in your daily life and the kind of experiences you don’t typically have when you’re on a production or a sourcing trip.

How are the inspiration trips reflected in the designers’ work?

They actually have to do a little homework beforehand on their destination — so say they want to go to the Great Wall of China, or get to know the local markets, taste the cuisine of Beijing or Shanghai. They create an itinerary where they may be visiting boutiques, or seeing what’s selling in that area. And they get five days of complete inspiration. Their inspiration trips become part of their next collection while they’re in the Incubator program, and then W guests can purchase them. So it comes full circle.

Is tagging along one of the perks of the job?

Unfortunately, I don’t get to go!

What aspect of W Hotels’ involvement with the Incubator program are you most proud of?

I feel so much pride when the designers tell me that the program is making a difference in their business — that they’re getting in front of the right consumers and getting marketing exposure that they couldn’t pay for at this stage of their business. And that we stay friends with all the past Incubator designers, and a lot of them stay at the W on their own, because they feel like we supported them in a crucial time for their brands. It really feels like a friendship more than a business relationship.

Stay tuned for our interview with the Incubator designers, coming tomorrow.

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It’s Not Your Imagination: Everyone Wore This Outfit in 2016

Polyvore’s Best of 2016 survey reveals the most popular fashion items of the year.

At some point in the past year, you may have thought to yourself, Is it just me, or is literally everyone suddenly wearing a bomber jacket? Well, friends, thanks to Polyvore, we now have definitive proof that, yes, everyone on the bus really was rocking an MA-1 in 2016. Even if they bought theirs at Barneys instead of the local army-navy surplus. Which is a thing you can actually do now. Which, lol.

Today Polyvore posts the results of their year-end survey on the fashion items we went nuts for in 2016. Turns out, the most-searched items of the year include:

Off-shoulder tops

Skinny jeans

Adidas Superstar sneakers

Bomber jackets

Which actually sounds like a pretty cute outfit, if you put it all together. Just add a choker and people will think you’re Kendall Jenner, probably.

Polyvore also dug in to its data to find the year’s hottest designer, and as a wise bard once said, “It’s Gucci!” That must be the reason I went cross-eyed while reviewing street-style photos last season (so … much … logo print!). Gucci’s most sought-after bag is the Boston bag, followed closely by the more ubiquitous Soho bag.

After Gucci, shoppers were on the hunt for Chanel’s ever-popular Boy bag, Valentino’s Rock Stud sneakers, Fendi’s Peekaboo bag, and Givenchy’s Antigona bag.

Click over to Polyvore for more on the biggest and best of 2016, and bookmark this post so you know what to wear to that 2016 costume party you’ll attend in 2036!

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