#Vogue magazine December 2023

[onikaswardrobe]

Nicki Minaj for the December 2023 issue of Vogue Magazine wearing a Vetements s/s 2024 oversized jacket and oversized jeans.

[yours-stevie]

Qué linda 😍

[fyeahtimwalker]

Olivia Colman by Tim Walker for Vogue UK, December 2023

Styled by Edward Enninful.

[modelsof-color]

Yilan Hua by Leslie Zhang for Vogue China Beauty Magazine December 2023

[mariacallous]

Last December, in a column about the Jewish books of 2023, I predicted that “next year’s list will include a slew of books dealing with the crisis in Israel or will be read through the lens of the war.”

It was an easy call: If this year’s nonfiction Jewish authors didn’t focus directly on the tragedy or aftermath of Oct. 7 — Israeli journalist Lee Yaron in “10/7: 100 Human Stories,” massacre survivor Amir Tibon in “The Gates of Gaza” and Adam Kirsch in “On Settler Colonialism: Ideology, Violence, and Justice,” to name a few — many added a chapter on the crisis to projects that had long been in the works. 

Joshua Leifer told me he had to rewrite “about 20,000 words” of “Tablets Shattered: The End of an American Jewish Century and the Future of Jewish Life,” his autobiographical critique of the Jewish mainstream. Three books of Jewish theology intended for wide audiences — “To Be a Jew Today” by Noah Feldman, “The Triumph of Life” by Rabbi Irving “Yitz” Greenberg and “Judaism Is About Love” by Rabbi Shai Held — included additional chapters taking into account the fresh wounds and nascent implications of the attack and the war.

In a typical year, the books by Leifer, Feldman, Greenberg and Held — and perhaps “The Amen Effect,” an inspirational volume by Rabbi Sharon Brous — would have competed for the book that best captured the Jewish moment and discourse. It’s a category I’ve been thinking about lately, after asking JTA readers to suggest Jewish books that define 21st-century Jewry and that — here’s the key part — are likely to be found on the shelves of the Jewish readers they know. I was inspired by universally read, era-defining books like 1958’s “Exodus” by Leon Uris, which fed and presaged the Zionist fervor of the 1960s, and “World of Our Fathers” by Irving Howe, which in the 1970s remembered what the children and grandchildren of Eastern European immigrants were already starting to forget.

I’ll get to the readers’ nominees in a moment, but I want to start by suggesting that it is still too early to pick a book, or books, that best reflects where Jews have landed in the wake of Oct. 7. The war still grinds on, and the Jewish community remains uncertain how it will end or what it will ultimately mean. Some themes are emerging, including resurgent antisemitism, the international isolation of Israel, a rupture between Jews and the political left, and perhaps a return to Jewish religious practice and belonging. Any author will need some time and distance to make sense of the upheaval.

It may not be surprising then that the book most frequently suggested by the dozens of readers who responded to my callout, “People Love Dead Jews,” anticipated these upheavals and the Jews’ sense of abandonment. Novelist Dara Horn’s first nonfiction collection, published in 2021, posited that societies that are happy building memorials and museums to Jewish suffering are reluctant to show respect or understanding to actual living Jewish communities. The book “really helped me wrap my head around present-day antisemitism,” wrote reader Marianne Leloir Grange. 

For many readers, “People Love Dead Jews” serves as a skeleton key to understanding the worldwide backlash against Israel in a war that began when Hamas slaughtered 1,200 mostly Jews on Oct. 7. As Horn explained in an interview in April with the online European Jewish magazine K., “You’ll see that people love dead Jews, as long as they’re vulnerable and helpless. In fact, I found it remarkable how much people seemed to relish the idea of showing their support for murdered Jews, until Israel responded with force. That’s how people love the Jews: powerless to stop their own slaughter. As soon as the Jews show any capacity for action, it’s all over.”

(When I asked Horn this week what books spoke to her this year, she said she appreciated Kirsch’s book, the anthology “Young Zionist Voices” edited by David Hazony, and Benjamin Resnick’s dystopian novel “Next Stop.”) 

Another frequently mentioned book seemed almost to act as a balm to Horn’s thesis: “The Heaven and Earth Grocery Store” by James McBride. Last year’s best-selling, prize-winning historical novel is set in a small Pennsylvania town at a moment when immigrant Jews and poor Black families found common cause. “‘The Heaven and Earth Grocery Store’ by James McBride is probably one of the most popular recent books likely to be on an American Jew’s bookshelf,” Galina Vromen wrote me. “I would argue that part of the attraction to Jews today is in light of antisemitism and nostalgia when Jews and Blacks saw themselves on the same side of just causes and Jews were not regarded as enemy white people.”

Vromen, a novelist, had a number of strong suggestions for the kinds of recent books likely to be on American Jewish bookshelves, including “The Netanyahus,” Joshua Cohen’s 2021 Pulitzer Prize-winning novel that serves as a cutting critique of present-day Israeli politics; “The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay,” Michael Chabon’s best-selling 2000 novel about the Jews who pioneered superhero comics; and “Start-Up Nation” by Dan Senor and Saul Singer. The last one, published in 2009, presented Israel as an incubator of high tech innovation (and coined an enduringly popular nickname for the country) and offers readers a comforting rebuke to the activists who see Israel as an oppressor and colonizer. 

A number of readers recommended Philip Roth’s 2004 novel “The Plot Against America,” which imagined an America run by the populist, isolationist, Nazi-sympathizing and antisemitic Charles Lindbergh in the early years of World War II. The book has had a number of lives: Roth said he wrote it as a rumination on Jewish security in America, but by 2016 it was seen by Donald Trump’s critics as an eerie prophecy of his rise and first election; HBO adapted it for a miniseries in 2020; and this year the New York Times named it one of the “100 Best Books of the 21st Century.”

Beyond that, no other book was suggested by more than one reader, although the ones they did mention seem like strong contenders for the current Jewish book shelf: “Everything Is Illuminated,” Jonathan Safran Foer’s 2002 magical realist novel that anticipated the current vogue for works about Jewish roots tours in Eastern Europe; “My Promised Land” by Ari Shavit and “Like Dreamers” by Yossi Klein Halevi, two 2013 nonfiction works by Israeli authors attempting to explain the country’s heart and soul; and Deborah Lipstadt’s 2019 “Antisemitism: Here and Now” (although I am guessing her 2005 memoir “History on Trial: My Day in Court with a Holocaust Denier,” which became the motion picture “Denial,” is better known). 

Samuel Freedman’s “Jew vs. Jew: The Struggle for the Soul of American Jewry,” published in 2000, fell just short of the 21st century, but was a prescient look at the internal political and religious divides that would only yawn wider in the coming decades. 

I was also pleased to hear from readers who suggested cookbooks. “Jerusalem” by Sami Tamimi and Yotam Ottolenghi (2011) not only kicked off a mania for high-end Middle Eastern cooking but presented a complex and even hopeful version of Jewish and Palestinian coexistence (which did not, over time, include the authors). Joan Nathan’s “Jewish Cooking in America” (1994) cemented her role as Jewish cuisine’s Julia Child. And it’s the rare kosher-keeping home cook who doesn’t own a volume in Susie Fishbein’s “Kosher By Design” series. Fishbein “single-handedly raised Jewish cooking to a gourmet level [and] opened the floodgates to a new sub-industry,” Barbara Kessel wrote me from Jerusalem.

What became clear from my unscientific survey is that in a polarized and media-saturated age, there are fewer books that American Jews might have in common than, say, 40 years ago. But maybe that’s OK. Each year sees a flood of new Jewish books, capturing voices beyond the ashkenormative assumptions of the 20th century and as diverse as the people who write and read them: Mizrachim, women, interfaith families, LGBT Jews, Jews of color, Jews by choice, the religious, the formerly religious.

“Today, my understanding of Jewish life is so much bigger (and richer),” the writer Erika Dreifus wrote me, remembering her own childhood among Ashkenazi Jews in the metro New York area. “I’m so much more aware of Jewish experience that differs from my own.”

[taylorswiftstyle]

Time 2023 Person of the Year | December 6, 2023

Ralph Lauren 'Cotton Utility Jacket' - $698.00

Over the years, Taylor’s been known to quietly take home items from magazine photoshoots. A pair of chunky Vetements boots from her Vogue 2016 spread, a cognac leather Mark Cross bag when she posed for Glamour in 2012.

So am I really surprised that we were Easter Egged on the eve of 1989 (Taylor’s Version) when Taylor was spotted out in NYC wearing this corduroy collared jacket by RL and come to find it’s the same one from one of the trio of covers via Time declaring her their Person of the Year?

No. No I am not.

Photo by Inez and Vinoodh for Time

[storyofthenauseouseye]

The Duality of Woman: Anais Nin

Vogue Magazine, Anais Nin talks about being a woman, 15 October 1971

Anais Nin is a woman of duality. It's been a well-known fact for those who know or love her that she is truly a two-sided coin. She said it herself in her book Henry and June,

"I will always be the virgin prostitute, the perverse angel, the two-faced sinister and saintly woman"(bookquoters.com).

From her intense marriages to two different men on opposite sides of the country, to her literary career, to even her personal reflections and essays, Nin was a figure bathed in duality. How does one split the image of Anais Nin ideally in half? You just have to find the seam between diarist and eroticist.

The Diarist

Anais Nin is most well-loved by her adoring fans because of her published diary. As a young girl, Nin wrote her father a letter begging him to return to the family he had abandoned (The Anais Nin Foundation). This was the beginning of Nin's diary, which would be published in seven volumes, with four unexpurgated diaries later appearing after their original publication.

Her diaries were incredibly personal, full of secrets and thoughts she never thought would come to light. The biggest secret within these diaries was that she was married to two different men simultaneously, something she would remove from the diaries upon initial publication. Years later, Nin compiled the removed sections into one volume, the first of her unexpurgated diaries. It was called Henry and June, and detailed the letters and writings the two shared. The duality of Nin stretched throughout every aspect of her life.

These highly intimate journals struck twentieth-century American women directly in their souls. As one journalist famously put it in an article for The Conversation,

Anaïs Nin dreamed, in all senses. She dreamed of lives and possibilities. She dreamed in slumber and allowed her dreams to leak into the day. As I regularly committed the cardinal social sin of recounting my dreams over breakfast, she seemed a soulmate across oceans and generations (Gorman).

These teenage girls and their daydreams were instantly hooked on Nin's likeminded wonder and splendid prose. She became a sensation after the diary publications almost instantly, giving her a decent seat in literary history.

It wouldn't be long until something else gave her another boost of fame.

Ramon Casas, Decadent Young Woman. After the Dance, 1899

The Eroticist

In the late 1970s, Anais Nine published three volumes of erotic short fiction, each containing approximately ten stories. Despite their popularity, the term erotic is a tad inappropriate. Although she wasn't a follower of the transgressive art movement like Georges Bataille, Anais Nin's erotic stories are more disturbing and controversial than actually arousing.

Nin wrote about such topics as sexual abuse, incest, pedophilia, and other forms of sexual violence within her stories. These works would go on to shock and challenge readers even today (Maza).

Lost Lenore Antiques, Anais Nin ~ Little Birds and Delta of Venus ~ 1st Edition Books ~ Vintage Erotica, 27 August 2021

Works Cited

The Anais Nin Foundation. “bio — The Anais Nin Foundation.” The Anais Nin Foundation, https://theanaisninfoundation.org/bio. Accessed 11 December 2023.

Gorman, Alice. “The book that changed me: journeying to the self with Anaïs Nin's sensual, transgressive diaries.” The Conversation, 25 April 2022, https://theconversation.com/the-book-that-changed-me-journeying-to-the-self-with-ana-s-nins-sensual-transgressive-diaries-176135. Accessed 11 December 2023.

Maza, Sarah, and Paul Herron. “Swinging: The Double Life of Anaïs Nin.” Public Books, 19 February 2018, https://www.publicbooks.org/swinging-the-double-life-of-anais-nin/. Accessed 11 December 2023.

Nin, Anaïs. “Quotes from Henry and June: From "A Journal of Love"--The Unexpurgated Diary of Anaïs Nin by Anaïs Nin.” BookQuoters, https://bookquoters.com/book/henry-and-june-from-a-journal-of-love-the-unexpurgated-diary-of-anais-nin. Accessed 11 December 2023.

Further Reading

[wonyela]

꒰◌ ˚₊ ˴ (⠀ MASTERLIST ) : welcome mayuri. ͟͟͞♡

✦.˚ about enhypen's barbie doll! ๑ﾟ˛𓍊𓋼

her profile. 🝮 background. 🝮 personal facts. dislikes — likes. • the lookbook. • inside phone. most iconic yuri things. • inside her barbie purse.

relationship with enha. • relationship with others. mayuri's love status. • inside the family tree. ♡︎ yungwon. ⁂ yeeseung. ⁂ yurjay. ⁂ yurake. yughoon. ⁂ yunoo. ⁂ yuiki. 🝮 i-land relations.

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yuri stan accounts. • yuri on instagram. • stan twitter. yuri on twitter. • yuri on weverse. • yuri on tiktok.

✦.˚ youtube videos! ๑ﾟ˛𓍊𓋼

enhypen being whipped for yuri. • idols caring for yuri. yuri in a nutshell with nct's jisung. • 04 liners moments. yungwon being in love. • maknae funny moments.

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yuri's aesthetic. • alphabet with yuri. • incorrect quotes. music covers she did. • the 04 liner friend group.

special stages: [ 2023 MAMA ] YOONxYURI I JUST + AROUND ( hitchhiker remix ver. ) [ 2024 SBS ] ANTONx YURI INTRO SOLO STAGE GAYO DAEJEON.

magazines: cosmopolitan magazine. • allure may 2023. bazaar korea magazine 2023. • korea vogue. • elle mag azine. • marie claire magazine. • noblesse magazine.

articles: 12th, december, 2021. • 5th, march, 2021. • 25th, december, 2023. • 14th, february, 2024.

credits to @skzinka for the layout ! < 3

[queens-of-my-life]

Sarah Paulson for Vogue Magazine (December 2023)

[runawaywhorses]

Maya Hawke – Vogue Magazine December 2023

[jvstinxavier]

nicki minaj wearing ferragamo fw23 by maximilian davis for vogue magazine's december 2023 issue, photographed by norman jean roy & styled by max ortega

[onikaswardrobe]

Nicki Minaj for the December 2023 issue of Vogue Magazine wearing a Marc Jacobs f/w 2023 pinstripe suit and Tory Burch s/s 2024 earrings.

[memphisbluesagain]

Pattie Boyd 1961-1962 (Elizabeth Arden, Cherry Marshall and Norman Parkinson)

I couldn’t find much detailed information about lovely Pattie from 1961-1962, so I decided to put together this long form post. Please, do let me know if I’m missing anything. Thanks!

- June 1961, Pattie leaves school with three GCE O Level passes and is living at home in Wimbledon, with her single mother and four siblings

- Late 1961, Pattie’s mother pulls some strings and gets her daughter a job at the Elizabeth Arden hair salon in London

“After school, I got a job at Elizabeth Arden in Bond Street, London - because I wasn’t qualified to do anything and my mum knew the CEO there.” - Pattie Boyd (December, 2022)

- In the new year, Pattie moves to London and begins working as a ‘shampoo girl’ / ‘trainee beautician’ on a small wage of £4.50 per week - which roughly translates to £97.53 as of 2023

“I thought: ‘I must get out, I must try and be independent’ - so I got a job and shared a flat with about five other girls.” - Pattie Boyd (December, 2022)

“I shampooed people’s hair and took their coats. I was a general dogsbody, but I must say that it was terribly glamorous because it was where I first saw fabulous magazines - like Vogue, Tatler and Harper’s Bazaar.” - Pattie Boyd (December, 2022)

“The job at Elizabeth Arden was deadly boring. I was training to be a beautician, but my heart wasn’t in it and I’m not sure I would have made the grade. Elizabeth Arden herself came in one day and berated me for my makeup. She didn’t like the black pencil under my eyes; it was not the ‘Elizabeth Arden’ look, she informed me.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

- Early 1962, Pattie had been working at the salon for roughly two months, until a Cherry Marshall Model Agency staffer took a special interest in her look

“A client who worked for Honey magazine asked me if I’d ever thought of becoming a model.” - Pattie Boyd (December, 2022)

“Imagine my excitement when a client came into the salon one day and asked if I had ever thought of being a model. I said: ‘No, but I certainly could.’” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

- The following day, Pattie was scheduled for a test shoot

“When I arrived, she had arranged for her in-house photographer, Anthony Norris, to take some test shots of me. He had set up some lights in a little studio and she gave me a couple of outfits to wear - I remember a beret and having to look sultry, smoking Gitanes. [a French brand of unfiltered cigarettes] They were black and white, moody shots, with a bit of a Parisian feel.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

- Anthony Norris sends Pattie along to a secretary at Cherry Marshall Model Agency and a personal meeting with Cherry Marshall herself is arranged - Pattie was signed to a modelling contract the very same day

“A successful model has just got to be strict with herself and lay off all fattening foods. That means no bread, butter, spaghetti or sweets! Watch out for ‘puppy fat spread’ - eat proper meals at regular times, with lots of lean meat and green vegetables.” - Pattie Boyd (April, 1965 - Letter from London)

“My fairy godmother phoned Cherry Marshall, who then ran one of the top model agencies and she said she was sending me to her. Anthony Norris went with me and told Cherry he thought she should take me on.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

“My secretary brought Pattie’s picture into me and told me Pattie was waiting outside. ‘I’ll see her’ I said - and there was Pattie, a shy 17-year-old who when she spoke, bubbles with impish charm. It would have been a mistake to change a thing about her. All we needed was to groom her rebellious hair and slim down her puppy fat. She started training immediately, the following Monday.” - Cherry Marshall, 1964

“She was shy until she started talking and then she bubbled over with enthusiasm, as she spoke of her ambition to be a model: ‘I know I’m a bit plump - but I can’t stop eating sweets!’ I said: ‘Pattie, from now on you cut out all sweets - and I want you to report on Monday at the school for training’. I wanted her rebellious hair groomed into a straight gleaming bob and she had to be taught how to apply photographic make-up. Nothing else should be changed. The name was right, the look was right and it would have been crazy to do anything to subdue her sparkling personality.” -  Cherry Marshall, 1978

- Pattie attends Cherry Marshall’s modelling school - graduating within three short months

“So that’s the advice that I’d pass on to all of you who dream of becoming models: train at a school that has proved itself - not just one of those places that give you a paper diploma and nothing else - and don’t try to sell yourself when you have qualified. Let your agent do that.” - Pattie Boyd (April, 1965 - Letter from London)

- Pattie attends test shoots and works to build her portfolio - unpaid

“I knew I had a winner - everyone in the office agreed with me and they immediately swung into action. New pictures were taken, photographers and magazines informed, casting agents bombarded, press alerted. Here, we told them with absolute confidence that Pattie Boyd was the girl for the swinging sixties.” - Cherry Marshall, 1978

“Finding an agency was easy; finding a job was the hard part.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

“We were too experienced to expect things to happen overnight, but we were impatient because Pattie was already seventeen and that wasn’t the youngest anymore. All we needed was to get one top photographer mad about her and she was made, but few of them would risk using an absolutely new girl on a job. They’d take test shots to find out what she was like and give her pictures for her portfolio, but no money. It was invaluable experience, but Pattie had to earn her living and we didn’t have much time.” -  Cherry Marshall, 1978

“My agent would phone me last thing in the afternoon and tell me my jobs for the next day and my diaries would be quite full. But not to begin with - I had to work quite hard, going around to photographer’s studios and showing them my portfolio.” - Pattie Boyd (December, 2022)

[Rayment Kirby, 1962]

“Everyday I would go out with a list of photographer’s names and addresses and trudge around with my portfolio, hoping they would like what they saw and use me on a job. And if one did, I would try very hard to get him to give me some prints at a low rate, so that I could add them to my portfolio. I must have travelled on every bus and tube in London and when I was out of money, I walked. My diary for those days is full of IOUs for the odd fiver.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

“Within three months her diary began to fill up and she (Pattie) was in constant demand.” -  Cherry Marshall, 1978

“If I had a job, I had a big, tall bag - no wheels in those days - with dark shoes, light-coloured shoes, all sorts of jewellery, wigs and hairpieces.” - Pattie Boyd (December, 2022)

“I was lucky. The trekking around worked and soon my diary was full of jobs. Modelling was fun. I loved trying on clothes and fiddling with my hair and makeup. We had to do it ourselves - there were no hair stylists or makeup artists and certainly no chauffeur-driven cars to ferry us around. We were not celebrities in the way that today’s top models are. For advertising jobs, we even had to bring our own accessories. I have my old appointment diaries about what I had to take to a shoot. Usually, it was light and dark court shoes, flatties, gloves, costume jewellery, hats or caps, boots, makeup, wigs and hair pieces. You could spot a model a mile off from the heavy bags that she was carrying.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

“I went on to do lots of lovely shoots, although I never enjoyed posing for Freeman’s catalogues. They’d book you in for three or four days in a row, which meant lots of money, but the clothes were hideous and far too big - they had to have clips on the back.” - Pattie Boyd (December, 2022)

“I rang Norman Parkinson, the king of them all - and asked if he’d see her. A model had to be really good before he could be approached, particularly as he was not impressed by an agent’s idea of who was photogenic. We knew that, superficially, Pattie had certain drawbacks - she was un-modelly in the accepted sense, her face was too round and she had a gap in her front teeth. She came back to us in tears, eyes swimming with disappointment, all set to give up. She finally blurted out: ‘He asked me if it’s fashionable these days to look like a rabbit!’” -  Cherry Marshall, 1978

“One day I went to see the great Norman Parkinson. He looked at my book, then looked at me and said: ‘Come back when you’ve learned how to do your hair and makeup properly’ I felt so humiliated.” - Pattie Boyd, Wonderful Tonight

“Seeing myself in magazines was so exciting. I couldn’t wait to show my mother and she was totally amazed, saying: ‘How on earth did you do that?’ - she had no idea that I’d been trampling the streets trying to get jobs and hopping on buses and trains to persuade photographers to take pictures of me.” - Pattie Boyd (December, 2022)

- Late 1962, Pattie began working for Honey magazine, which led to many other opportunities...

I will try to make a Pattie Boyd 1963-1964 long post soon! :)

[fyeahtimwalker]

Little Simz by Tim Walker for Vogue UK, December 2023

Styled by Edward Enninful.

[celebratingwomen]

Maya Hawke for Vogue Magazine, December 2023

[ayanegooding]

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