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leilahoward · 5 years ago

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Adriatic Tour - September 2019

My fourth Rick Steves tour, and the second in 2019, was his Best of the Adriatic. A two-week tour taking in Slovenia and Croatia, with an overnight stop in Bosnia. Seeing three of the now seven nations created when Yugoslavia broke apart in the 1990s.

A Bit of History

Yugoslavia was created after World War I with the defeat of both the Austria-Hungarian Empire and the Ottoman Empire. That changed in the 1990s when the regions started to breakaway to create independent nations.

Slovenia in the north is a member of the European Union and in the Schengen Zone. Thus my arrival in Europe in Munich was sufficient for my passport to be stamped. Slovenia also is on the Euro, so money I had leftover from my previous trip was used for the first several days. And, because of the borders, and the Schengen states, we seamlessly drove within Slovenia with a 30-minute drive into Italy on the outskirts of the city of Trieste.

Croatia and Bosnia on the other hand have their own currencies and tighter border controls. We went through customs and passport control as we passed through those borders. The Croatian Kuna is the Croatian currency with little acceptance of Euros. The tour made sure we did not need to have any of the Bosnian currency by having group lunch and dinner during our stop in Bosnia. Breakfast of course was included with the hotel. Luckily the gelato vendors in Mostar near the famous bridge took Euros or Kunas.

Slovenia

The main highlights of Slovenia was Ljubljana, the capital and Lake Bled.

Ljubljana is an old-world city with cafes and wide streets for easy walking. Clearly the Austria-Hungarian influenced the growth and culture of the city. I spent hours walking along pedestrian streets and into squares simply enjoying the ambiance of the city. One highlight was to see several buildings designed by a famous local architect, Joze Plecnik. One currently is a high school that was a block from the hotel we stayed, and the other is a university library. The playfulness of the library is that windows are shaped as if they were open books.

Lake Bled is within the Julian Alps and close to the Austrian and Italian borders. I’ve been told the only island in Slovenia is the small one in the lake with a church on it. A castle commands a high view from one side of the lake. After touring the castle, we were given time to stroll, hike, walk around the lake. That was a serene and beautiful way to see this marvelous place. Actually I did not walk totally around the lake but went about half way to 2/3 in one direction and returned the same way. So, yes, may not have walked all the way around, but covered the same distance. Preferred to stay in woodsy forest setting than ending up in the developed town by the lake. One note, a villa used by Yugoslavian strongman Marshal Tito now is a small hotel.

Other highlights of Slovenia is the beautiful vistas driving through the Julian Alps and a stop in the town of Kobarid to see a World War I museum. Several major battles were fought in the area and a young Ernest Hemingway served as an ambulance driver which he later turned into his novel A Farewell to Arms.

It was during this final stretch in Slovenia that we crossed into and out of Italy in about 30-minutes.

Croatia

The bulk of the two-week tour was in Croatia mainly spending the time along the Adriatic coast from the Istrian Peninsula down to Dubrovnik.

Istrian Peninsula juts out into the Adriatic and is close to Venice and the Italian coast. Supposedly from the town of Rovinj you could see Venice on a clear day. Well they say that but I didn’t. There is a heavy Roman and Venetian influence in the towns we saw including Roman amphitheater in Pula.

Rovinj

Three from Pula

Venetian influence is seen in Rovinj and Opatiija. As I walked into the warrens of the streets of Rovinj, I felt as if I was walking in Venice or a Tuscan or Umbrian hill town. It was as close to feeling in Italy without being there.

5 photos of Opatija

The interesting note about the Istrian Peninsula is that the towns all have two names, the Croatian name and an Italian name even though it has been centuries since the area was under Roman or Venetian control.

Plitvice Lakes National Park is an absolute jewel. The tour made sure we entered the park early in the morning at one end that is not the usual entrance for tourists. The goal was to walk through the park which is full of lakes and waterfalls until we arrived at the main entrance. It was a six mile, 16,000 steps walk seeing amazing vistas and waterfalls all by noon! I don’t think my photos do it justice. At one point I mentioned to someone I was walking with that it reminded me a bit like Milford Sound in New Zealand. Within minutes heard someone going in the other direction say the same thing.

Even though the tour guide was specific about where we should meet near the end of the trail, we lost four women. I later said they saw the walk through the park as a race and not a walk. They were in front of all of us and took the wrong turn near the trail end. While we waited where we were suppose to be, they ended up walking back to where we entered the park! Of course we found them but had to change where we would have lunch since their misadventure forced a change of plans.

Split

One of the jewels of Croatia is Split. An amazing beautiful city nestled on the Adriatic. We spent two nights there (thank goodness, was able to get laundry done) and was absolutely beautiful. Was supposed to meet up with my ex-boss who was going to be there at the same time, but he cancelled on me. So I spent free time walking along the seaside walkway.

The main tourist attraction is the remains of the Roman emperor Diocletian’s palace. The modern city used the remnants as a base to build along the waterfront. One part of the basement of the palace that is intact supposedly was used in the filming of the HBO show “Game of Thrones.”

I was able to find the synagogue in Split which is barely used for services on Saturdays or for holidays.

Split is definitely a place I would return to if the opportunity came again.

Korcula

A two-week tour is somewhat exhausting so the last weekend we were given a free day on the island of Korcula. It is off the coast of Croatia between Split and Dubrovnik. To get there we had to take a ferry from the mainland. And we needed the break. Absolutely gorgeous with amazing views of the Adriatic. I had not planned on bringing a bathing suit to go into the sea but if I had to do it over, would have just to get into the Adriatic. As is, I was only able to dip my toes and hands.

Dubrovnik

The old city is an amazingly beautiful walled city. We were given a walking tour by a local who lives inside the walled city. Luckily we did the tour in the morning beating the crowds from a cruise ship that disgorged hundreds of tourists into the small area of the walled city. Clearly a case of over-tourism. There were more tourists than necessary for us to fully enjoy the scenery.

The highlight of the day was walking around the city wall and seeing the city below in its full beauty. And, similar to Split, I was able to go to the synagogue which is now a non-working synagogue.

Bosnia

One of the “Wow moments” of the tour was our overnight trip to Mostar in Bosnia. Mostar sits in a river valley with high hills surrounding the city. It was from those heights that the town was shelled during the siege that devastated it during the wars in the 1990s.

The famous arched old bridge was destroyed - a bridge that was originally built by the Ottomans in the 16th Century. As the area calmed down and peace was relatively restored the bridge was rebuilt and is the main tourist attraction in the old town area. Locals will solicit money before diving off the bridge into the river. The crowds swell to see this sight. And, according to the tour books, so do the pickpockets. Luckily didn’t bother me.

We had a local guide, a Bosnian Muslim who described how she and her family survived the shelling and the siege. At one point when the bridge was destroyed, her family was divided by the river without contact from the other side for weeks. She recalled her brother still has shrapnel from a shelling that also killed her uncle. We saw numerous buildings still with signs of being damaged from the war.

She was not enthusiastic about the peace accord that ended the war. The agreement was brokered by the Clinton Administration and established a couple of autonomous ethnic zones, especially one for Serbians. She felt that has led to a country with multiple presidents and a lack of cohesion as a nation. However so far that agreement has held.

Observations

This was a region of Europe on my “must see” list for some time. Now I can go to other parts of Europe without wondering will I get to the Adriatic area. A member of the tour said to me that it is a tribute to Leila that I continue to travel, something we loved to do together.

Loire Valley and South France in spring 2020 and South Italy in October 2020 coming up.

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domhovasse · 5 years ago

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The best Balkan.

For the last couple of years, I’ve been hearing and seeing incredible things about Slovenia. Since we didn’t have time to add it to our Balkans trip itinerary, I figured I would claim my last week of holidays and spend an entire week hiking, swimming, and exploring the ‘green’ country of the Balkans. Originally I was planning on leaving alone, but when I found out that my friend Dave was going to be travelling at the same time, I suggested he join me for Slovenia, and he gladly accepted.

After a night in Venice, we headed to the capital city of Slovenia, Ljubljana, where we spent 2 days learning some history, eating some good food, and exploring the city on bike and foot. After our severely delayed bus ride, we checked-in to our hostel before grabbing some typical Slovenian sausages for lunch. We then walked up to the Ljubljana Castle, where we spent some time exploring the various rooms, and walking up to the tower/lookout, where we got stuck in an agressive rain/hail storm. The rain thankfully subsided intime for us to end the day off on a free walking tour, before grabbing dinner along the river, and later on, participating in a pub-crawl.

The following day was spent exploring Ljubljana by bike, visiting a few museums, hanging out at a park, and getting rooftop drinks at sunset. After grabbing dinner, we went for a little walk around town before having an early night in.

The next morning we hopped on a short bus ride to Bled, a beautiful, picturesque lake, famous for its turquoise water and (man-made) island in the middle. Ever since I saw a photo of the place years ago, I’ve been determined to one day visit. And boy was it even more beautiful in person. The forecast had said clouds and thunderstorms, but the sun pulled through and we were able to spend all our time outside, hiking, swimming, and tanning. The lake is about 6km in circumference so we spent our first day walking all the way around the lake, as well as visiting two viewpoints, one at Bled Castle, and the other at the end of a 45-minute hike.

Our second day was spent at Lake Bohinj, another beautiful, much bigger lake, that actually reminded me a lot of BC. We decided to rent an electric scooter for the day, to have more flexibility in regards to time, but this decision ended up backfiring when our scooter stopped working right as we got to the top of a lookout point. I figured if we let it rest for a little bit, the engine would cool down and eventually start-up again, but after hanging out and grabbing some food at the top of the mountain/lookout point, nothing. Since we were at the top of a mountain, we were able to make it back into town mostly by riding in neutral all the way down, but once the road flattened out we ended up walking for a while, stopping people along the way to ask for help, all of which could not get the bike to start either. We eventually found a tourism office, where we asked a young Slovenian guy if he could help us. When him and 2 of his friends couldn’t figure out how to fix the scooter (even after calling the shop owner), they decided to put it in the back of a van, and drive us back to Bled. The shop owner ended up paying them for gas/their time, which we were so relieved about! We thanked them a million times, gave them all big hugs, and were (finally) on our way back to our hostel.

After a perfect morning paddle boarding on the lake, we caught a bus back to Ljubljana, where we began our journey by train, to visit some of the coastal towns of Slovenia. To cut our journey in half, we decided to make a stop at the famous Skocjan Cave. We caught a free shuttle bus from the train station to the cave, went on a guided tour, and found out that there were no shuttle busses running to bring us back to the train station, where we were to catch our train to the coast. What a lovely situation to be in, stranded in the middle of Slovenia, with no ride to the train station, and the last train of the day leaving in 20 minutes. We desperately asked a worker for advice, who she suggested we walk, until she realized we wouldn’t get there in time. She then decided to call her mom to see if she could give us a ride on their way home (even though it was apparently forbidden for her as an employee to offer rides to customers/travellers). Thank God for kind people! We arrived at the train station right in time to catch the last train to Koper - what a relief. After arriving, we checked-in to our hostel, grabbed dinner, and wandered around town a bit, before heading to bed.

The next morning we woke up bright and early, spent some time walking around the town of Koper, before renting an electric scooter and driving along the coastline, stopping first in the town of Izola for a nice walk and ocean-side cocktail, and then Piran, where we stopped for lunch, and visited a few tourist attractions. We made sure to check that the road was more or less flat so that we wouldn’t have a repeat of our last scooter rental experience. It ended up going very smoothly, and we got back to Koper in the late afternoon, in time to grab a sunset beer, before dinner and another early night in.

After splitting up with Dave, I had 3 days to spare before my flight home from Venice (since the roundtrip flight from Paris was much cheaper than the one to Ljubljana), so I decided to make my way up the Istrian Peninsula by bus, stopping to explore a few cities along the way, since they’re all quite close to each other and small enough to explore in a day. First up was Rovinj, a picturesque town known as ‘little Venice’ built on a rocky spur. I locked up my bag at the bus station and spent the majority of the day wandering around town aimlessly, getting lost in the narrow streets, and eventually following the coastline to the beach, where I spent some time people watching and enjoying the sweet sound of the ocean.

In the late afternoon, I made my way back to the bus station to pick up my things and catch a bus to Pula. I was so shocked by the amount of British tourists in both Rovinj and Pula, I almost forgot I was in Croatia! After checking into my hostel, I got dinner and wandered around the city center with a Canadian guy from my hostel dorm. The following day we explored more of the city, visiting an old castle as well as the famous Pula Arena, the only remaining Roman amphitheatre to have four side towers and the most well preserved monument in Croatia. In the afternoon we decided to head to the beach, where we spent a few hours taking it easy, reading, and enjoying the sun. On our way back to the hostel we picked up groceries to make our own dinner, since the food options all seemed to be very overpriced, and of sub-par quality.

My 6 hours in Trieste the following day were spent walking around the city center, visiting some sights, stopping for coffee a few times, and (obviously) treating myself to a delicious pizza & glass of wine. I felt so bougey sitting at a nice restaurant and getting the most expensive pizza on the menu, until I realized the exact same meal would have costed double the amount in Paris. After taking a brief nap on a bench along the pier, I eventually made my way back to the bus station, where I caught a bus to the Venice airport. I remember it being so incredibly hot this day, I ended up spending so much time just sitting in random shady spots around the city, trying my best to avoid possibly fainting.

Another trip for the books, and a region of the world I highly recommend everyone explore! Slovenia had some of the most beautiful landscapes I have ever seen, and the fact that a lot of it reminded me of home was a big plus. If I were to do it again, I probably would have rented a car to have more flexibility while travelling in Slovenia, and I definitely would have skipped Pula altogether.

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clamjumper5-blog · 5 years ago

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A Healthy Hedonist’s Guide to Slovenia

The question I got asked the most this summer (besides why I decided to elope) was what made me choose Slovenia for our big summer trip. (And, er, where is that, again?)

The answer feels a little silly: it’s because of the Netflix show Chef’s Table. When I watched the season 2 episode featuring Ana Ros and her restaurant Hisa Franko, I was blown away by how beautiful the country looked. Sure, the cinematographers on that show could make a dingy back alley seem romantic. But there was something about the place that felt special—a secret oasis of natural wonders untouched by mass tourism, despite it being just a stone’s throw from the Italian border.

A few months later, I saw that one of my favorite Hashi Posse members, Sarah Wilson, had adventured there. Hearing her rave about the diverse scenery, eco culture, and fresh (gluten-free friendly) cuisine, put it even higher on my bucket list.

So when Charlie and I began discussing another European summer road trip earlier this spring, I thought it would be the perfect place to get the best of the mountains, alpine lakes, and Adriatic seashores—all the hot spots of the summer high season—without having to spend 50 euro a person at every meal.

The country surpassed our expectations in every way imaginable, and though we had a full 10 days to explore, it felt like we were only scratching the surface. That said, one of the hallmarks that makes Slovenia worth at least a week of your time is that you can cover so many different landscapes in a short distance.

With less than three hours of driving, you can visit the fairytale capital city of Ljubljana—with a public recycling system that’s even more impressive than its castle—laze by the water in the quaint, postcard-perfect town of Lake Bled, explore the otherworldly underground caves in Postojna, invoke your inner mountain goat in the Julian Alps, raft in the emerald waters of the Socca River, taste countless natural wines in Goriška Brda (Slovenia’s Napa), and float along the salty shores of the Mediterranean in Piran.

With a population of only 2 million, even during the busiest weekends of summer, the country still felt refreshingly empty and undeveloped. We barely heard any English speakers while we were there, and yet, due to its history, most Slovenians speak perfect English, along with several other languages.

Neighboring Italy, Austria, Hungry and Croatia, the country’s borders have been a constant moving target. Until voting overwhelmingly for independence in 1991, the country was the economic breadwinner of Yugoslavia. It was also the only present-day European nation to be completely absorbed and annexed into Nazi Germany, Fascist Italy, and Hungary during World War II.

Despite this tumultuous history (or perhaps because of it?), the center of Slovenian pride and culture is love. There was far more tourist regalia dedicated to the fact that it’s the only country with love literally spelled out in the name than the fact that Melania Trump came from there. More importantly, the combination of being an international nexus, with a rich landscape, and heart-led people, meant truly memorable food.

Read on for my tips on eating gluten-free in Slovenia, the best restaurants we tried, hotels with stayed in, and how to plan an epic road trip itinerary.

With health and hedonism,

Phoebe

How to Eat Gluten-Free in Slovenia

Thanks to the neighboring countries, you’ll encounter a lot of different culinary influences depending on where you are in Slovenia.

There’s the humble Hungarian-influenced peasant food that uses some combination of sausage, sauerkraut, beans and barley. Homemade pastas and Italian-style pizzerias on every corner. And no shortage of beer at the tavern-like Gostilnas across the country.

Farm-to-table local ingredients reign supreme throughout, with specialties including trout from the socca river, game meats like venison and rabbit, and all manner of wild mushrooms. If you’re a truffle lover, you might just pass out eating in Slovenia, where you can get freshly shaved truffles on appetizers that cost less than 15 euro. Take advantage of the porcini and chanterelles too!

Eating gluten-free in Slovenia was fairly easy. While servers aren’t as knowledgeable about cross-contamination and the particulars (so many thought barley was GF) as in Italy, many menus had in depth allergen indexes or icons.

Even at more rustic gostilnas (inn-restaurants), you can find some simple options like grilled trout with a side of spinachy potatoes, baked sausage with sauerkraut, grilled polenta, or a large salad with the oil and vinegar on the side to dress yourself. Plus, one of the most prevalent grains was buckwheat, which was served as risotto or a hardy side in its whole grain form.

10 Days in Slovenia: A Road Trip Itinerary

Our time in Slovenia was designed around two main events: a 3-day trek through the Julian Alps and the Socca Valley, and dinner at Hisa Franko, which we locked in before we even had plane tickets!

Below is a snapshot of our itinerary, with slight modifications for how I wish we had done things. We had a lot of guidance from our travel guru, Miha at SloTrips, and I know we wouldn’t have been able to design such a comprehensive, robust experience without him.

Especially if you’re looking for more than just day hikes, I’d highly recommend working with SloTrips to design your adventure itinerary. They can put together your whole trip for you, including arranging wineries, hotels and restaurant reservations. But if you don’t want to go all in like a traditional travel agent, I would at least recommend having them handle a hut to hut hiking experience for you, which we would have never been able to dream up or execute ourselves from the States.

Charlie and I are not ones for organized group travel. We don’t like spending most of our trip with strangers! So the self-guided option was perfect. Miha handed off a detailed packet of instructions for every stop we made on our trip and directions down to the turn for our hike so we didn’t get lost. He arranged transfers for the bikes, and to bring us back to our car when we finished. He even gave us a local smart phone with all the contacts built in, PDF’s and marked maps to follow.

Since we knew so little about Slovenia before going, it was also a treat to have someone give us a whole rundown on the history and fairytale lore behind each town we visited, and the best restaurant and local artisans to try. Miha put together an insanely comprehensive 40+ page guide for us that was like our own personalized Lonely Planet. I give full credit to him for half of the delicious things we ate listed below!

A few other notes:

We found the cheapest direct flights through Venice, which is about 2 1/2 hours by car to Ljubljana. To connect through another major city by plane would have taken roughly the same amount of time and was more expensive. We opted to design our trip around a few days in Venice on the backend, which was a fun way to round out the trip.

Instead of spending 3 nights in Piran, if we had it to do over again, we would have added a second night upfront in Ljubljana. It’s small enough to do in 24 hours, but also quite a pleasant place to ease into the trip, learn more about Slovenian culture, eat great food, and more importantly, get over your jetlag before more adventurous outdoor activities await.

Day 1: Arrive in Venice and drive to Ljubljana. Wander the canal in the afternoon and enjoy dinner at Spajza.

Day 2: In the morning, visit Central Market and explore the castle. Drive to Bled (45 minutes) in the afternoon. Walk around the perimeter of the lake. Enjoy dinner at Castle Bled Restaurant.

Day 3: Relax by the water and rent a paddle board or canoe to visit the island in the center. Do a nearby hike to visit one of the great overlooks over the water. Another option would be to rent bikes, take the train to Lake Bohinj (25 minutes), and explore that region.

Day 4 – 5: Drive to Kranjska Gora and begin hut to hut hike through the Julian Alps and into the Socca Valley.

Day 6: Finish the hike. Return to your car and drive to Kobarid in the Socca Valley. Go to Hisa Franko for dinner and stay there for the night!

Day 7: Drive to wine country and do a tasting at one of the many fabulous wineries. You can also pop over to Friuli on the Italian side. Another option is to visit the caves in Postojna. Arrive in Piran in the evening.

Day 8: Relax in Piran. Bike through Portorosso to the salt flats and dip in the Adriatic. Enjoy dinner at Pri Mari.

Day 9: Optional day trip to Croatia or unwind again by the sea in Piran.

Day 10: Return to Venice and fly home.

LJUBLJANA

What to Do and Where to Stay in Ljubljana

Though it houses a third of the population, Slovenia’s capital feels more like a town than a city. You can easily explore all the major landmarks in the old quarter in 24 hours. But it might be worth spending a second night there to try more of the fabulous restaurants and experience some of the more idiosyncratic remnants of socialism, like the pay-by-the-kilo art galleries, or cafes where you can hang out all day like it’s your home and just pay for your time when you leave.

For recommendations on great shops, music and art to check out, my friend Bianca’s article is a great guide. For more recommendations on restaurants that we didn’t have time to try, Sarah Wilson’s post is another great resource.

Hotel Cubo

We loved the sleek feel of this boutique hotel and its proximity to the center of old town. Request a room facing the castle!

Where to Eat in Ljubljana: The Best Gluten-Free Restaurants

Spajza

This restaurant on a quaint side street in old town was the perfect mix of old school Slovenian fare and refined farm-to-table cuisine. Make sure to take advantage of the extensive seasonal specials, which during our stay, included a wealth of fresh truffles (for a fraction of the price you’d find in Italy). I had a beautiful appetizer of baked scallops on the half shell with buttery chanterelles, and Charlie enjoyed mixed mushrooms and truffles with eggs. While my duck breast special was a little tough and undercooked, his entree was the real winner: bacon wrapped rabbit over a silky-smooth pea puree. It was good enough to forgive carving up one of my childhood friends alongside my spirit animal, “young horse,” which appeared multiple times on the menu as a specialty.

TaBar

Off the main canal drag, this small tapas bar is a great option for small plates or a light lunch of fresh local ingredients. The menu is well marked for allergies, and I was able to order a beautiful trout crudo with roe and grilled octopus.

Gelateria Romantika

It was a true treat to find gelato on the same level as neighboring Italy, but with inventive flavors like cucumber-lime and strawberry-basil. The former was a tart, refreshing revelation. And needless to say, there were plenty of options for dairy-free folks and vegans alike. Had I risked a little more cream before our hiking trip, I would have had the black sesame – it was insane. Sadly no GF cones, FYI.

Monstera Bistro

We didn’t manage to make it to this modern space with minimal, creative dishes. But heard great things! At dinner time the service is more formal with elaborate tasting menus. Go for lunch if you want a casual a la carte experience.

LAKE BLED

What to Do in Lake Bled

Lake Bled is one of the biggest tourist destinations in Slovenia, and can be swarmed with people during peak summer weekends. That said, it’s a relatively small town that’s mostly dominated by the lake. And since there are very few hotels and villas built around its perimeter, you can almost always find a quiet place to perch for the day.

The lake itself has garnered a lot of folklore over the years (you’ll notice there’s a lot of fairytale speak built into Slovenia’s major landmarks, in general). Besides the fairies who initially inhabited the valley and eventually flooded it to prevent the nearby shepherds from letting their flock feast off its mossy floor, the biggest lake legend involves the gold bell originally intended for the church in the center of the lake, which upon initial transport, sank to the depths, never to be recovered.

In later history, the lake has also been home to Nazi outposts during WWII, and is said to be the final resting place of several intelligence resources, and a large swath of hidden gold. Note to self: don’t leave anything in the lake that you intend to find again.

The perimeter is around 6 kilometers and has a well-groomed flat walkway along the edge that’s perfect for a light stroll. The sidewalk gets a little too congested for a pleasant bike ride during the high season (when we were there) but bikes make for a great way to get to and from dinner, since the roads themselves are even more congested. When we mapped out our journey one night, it was actually faster to walk than drive!

About a 25 minute train ride away from Bled is a second lake that’s equally beautiful and much less crowded. Sadly, we did not make it to Bohinj to confirm this, but if you have trouble finding accommodations in Bled, it would be the perfect alternative for visiting the lake region, or a second option for daytime activities, should you find Bled too mobbed.

Where to Stay in Lake Bled

Garden Village Bled

We chose to glamp at this fabulous matrix of tree houses and tents rather than opt for a traditional hotel. It’s a little pricey for what you get (and compared to some of the more formal hotels in the area), but we wouldn’t have traded the experience of sleeping by a beautiful creek, above an estuary of trout, and getting to relax by their man-made “beach” during the day. The restaurant on site is quite tasty and they source all the produce from the garden on the premises (and fish from those waterways!). Had we done it over again, we would have splurged for one of the larger tree houses cabins or tents versus the pier tents we stayed in (where you couldn’t stand up).

Vila Bled

The old country home of former Yugoslav president Tito, this beautiful villa is on the lake and includes a secluded area of beach chairs right on the water. You can also rent paddle boards and boats straight from their boathouse. We didn’t get to see the rooms, but the prices seemed reasonable given the grounds on offer.

The Best Gluten-Free Restaurants in Lake Bled

Bled Castle Restaurant

You can’t beat the views at this elegant restaurant overlooking the lake. While ordinarily one might expect overpriced and uninspired fare fitting of such a tourist venue (inside the Bled Castle), instead the tasting menu is refined without being fussy. If you let them know in advance, they will also provide homemade gluten-free options, which for me included a gorgeous tart stuffed with pumpkin and fresh local mozzarella, instead of the pasta course. The highlight of an all-around tasty meal was a seared trout served with buckwheat risotto. Sadly, it rained the night we went, so we enjoyed our meal inside the modern, minimalist interior, but ordinarily, there is outdoor seating cliff-side with a perfect vantage point of the island.

Penzion Berc

Despite it being ranked as number 1 on TripAdvisor, we found this restaurant to be hit or miss. The ambiance was beautiful, housed in a courtyard garden (with a live pianist) a kilometer or so from the lakeside. The white glove service was painfully slow, and the food similarly uptight. But there were some nice dishes, including a venison main course, wild mushroom risotto, and a light, cream-free carrot soup.

Ostarijia Peglez’n

Slovenia takes its fine dining seriously, and most of the plates we ate while in the country were carefully composed. But as you know, I’m usually happier in a cozy trattoria environment. Which is one of the reasons I so enjoyed my meal at this little mom and pop fish shop. It’s a great option for a simple lunch or unfussy dinner of reasonably priced seafood. We got a fish for two served in a large roasting pan with mixed vegetables and potatoes.

Restaurant Vrtnarija (at Garden Village Bled)

If you’re looking for an unpretentious farm-to-table (or garden to table) meal, the restaurant on site of Garden Village Bled is a great option. It’s particularly fun for lunch in the daylight since you can sit in the middle of their man-made pool and feast on tables covered in live grass. Make sure to order a side salad with their beautiful fresh assorted greens. The chicken skewers with rice off the kids menu was a safe and satisfying meal after so many indulgent ones at fancier restaurants.

Sova

Unfortunately we didn’t make it to this cute wine bar just a short walk from our glamping site, but I heard great things. I wish we had tried it instead of Penzion Berc!

THE JULIAN ALPS AND THE SOCCA VALLEY

Your jumping off point for all things outdoor adventure is southwest of the capital, in the towns of Kranjska Gora, Bovec and Kobarid. The first was where we begun our hut to hut hike into the Alps, but you can also find some beautiful day hikes. Bovec, where our trek ended, is where you can book other activities like mountain biking, rafting and sky diving.

So many of the pictures you see throughout this post were taken from our SloTrips 3-day adventure. It was an incredible way to see the country as it morphed from densely wooded forests, to craggy peaks, to mossy Fern Gully banks that lined the socca river. A day hike along the river is a must, though the water looks more inviting than it is. We could only stand putting our feet in for 30 seconds before they went numb!

Going from hut to hut also allowed us to taste some humble mountain foods like sausage and sauerkraut stew. As someone with an information-based business myself, I don’t want to give away our hiking itinerary. So make sure to get in touch with SloTrips if you’re interested in designing your own adventure.

We ended our hike in the Socca valley, which is insanely green and dotted with beautiful medieval churches. In Kobarid, we stayed at an AirBNB apiary for the night among the bees, which was a cool experience, before heading to Hisa Franko for our culinary reward.

They offer a small number of moderately-priced rooms above the restaurant, and if you’re going to be eating dinner there, I highly recommend you try to book for the whole night, as the wine pairing was generous and not to be missed!

So, as for the main event…

The meal at Hisa Franko blew me away. As you know, I’m not one for Michelin star, molecularly overly wrought meals. On the surface, this is what you get during your 11 course tasting menu. But Ana Ros’ cuisine is infused with so much more soul than the sum of her foams combined.

Our favorite dishes were among the most simple: her trout in a milky broth with briny beets to cut the fat, and the only substantial meat course, a beautiful venison medallion with anchovy butter and spruce dust that tasted like the forest.

The iconic pasta dish is sadly not gluten-free. Instead, they served me a delicate sardine. But I stole a little taste of Charlie’s ham and hazelnut broth. It was insane. I would recommend all GF folks request a cup of the broth without the pasta. I asked them if I could have it instead of one of the desserts and they laughed politely and said no.

My favorite part of the experience was Ana and Valter’s hospitality. They aren’t present in the dining room or kitchen during service, but since the restaurant is an extension of their home, you can see them having family dinner with their kids and wandering around during the day. They are incredibly friendly and make you feel at home.

GORISKA BRDA WINE REGION

These hills, a stone’s throw from Italy’s Fiuli region, are considered the Slovenian Napa. It’s a small area with lots of producers clustered around, and many have restaurants on the premises that offer tastings along with a tasty meal. There’s a large influence from Italy and much of the meats and cheeses (as well as the tourists) come from across the border.

Since most of these wineries of small family-run operations, you can’t just show up. Email them in advance to set up a tasting session or lunch reservation.

The wineries recommended to us were Klinec Medana for orange wines, Movia for natural whites, Edi Simcic for great reds, and Erzetic to learn from a younger next generation producer. We had a lovely lunch at Klinec Medada with overlooking the grapes with beautiful produce from their neighboring farm. I wasn’t as wild about the orange wines, but they were interesting to try.

The wine pairing at Hisa Franko introduced us to a lot of lesser known producers, and throughout the rest of the trip we tried many of the above wineries off the restaurant lists, so by the time we made it to wine country, we didn’t feel the need to do more than 1 appointment.

In general, the wine in Slovenia is mostly natural, organic and biodynamic. We got to try some interesting grapes I wasn’t familiar with like Malvasia, and generally loved everything we tried. If you find a Slovenian wine on a your menu, order it!

PIRAN

Last but not least, we made our way to the Istrian Peninsula, which is home to Italy, Croatia and Slovenia. In fact, if you lived in Piran for most of your life, there’s a chance that you’ve had citizenship to 4 different countries as the borders changed.

What to Do in Piran

This sleepy seaside village is the perfect place to unwind after a rigorous few days of adventuring. The Adriatic sea is incredibly buoyant, pristine, and perfect for habitual porpoising. You won’t find sandy shores, but the perimeter of town is lined with some pebbly patches to perch, and plenty of small concrete docks to dive off of if a dip is all you’re after.

The high salt content also makes it a hub for sea salt production. If reading by the rocky shore isn’t enough activity for you, try renting bikes and visiting the salt pans 5 kilometers outside town center towards Portorosso, the more commercial stretch of the marina. It’s an easy flat ride along the shore. Otherwise, your best bet for exercise is to hike up to the church at the center of town and take in the view.

Where to Stay in Piran

Hotel Piran

This is the main game in town, and though we found it a little shabby and overpriced for you what you get, you can’t beat the location and view. The rooftop restaurant is a great place for an evening spritz as the sunsets. And the breakfast buffet even had GF bread!

Note that cars aren’t allowed in the town center, but some hotels like Piran offer a shuttle service so you can drop off your bags and then return your car to the lot at the edge of town and get a ride back in. The hotel also offers bikes to rent that were very pleasant for exploring the outlying areas.

The Best Gluten-Free Restaurants in Piran

Pri Mari

We loved this cozy gostilna so much that after a mediocre experience at Pavel (don’t recommend), we decided to go back a second time for dinner. The sea bass baked in sea salt with baked potatoes and spinach is the perfect simple meal. For those who can partake, Charlie raved about his vongole pasta. And I was majorly smitten with my saffron risotto with prawns. Make sure if you’re celiac to avoid the crispy potatoes that come with some of the single serving fish entrees as there’s cross contamination in the fryer. Don’t miss the pannacotta for dessert and ask for a special aperitif to go with it. Whatever bitter anise-y spirit they served was just what we wanted.

Rizibizi

A short walk or bike ride outside town towards Portorosso, this restaurant is one of the more formal in the area, with prices to match. Still, the prawn and truffle risotto was affordable by US and Italy standards. We also had a beautiful beef carpaccio with truffles. Basically, we ate an entire truffle between the two of us and had no regrets.

Pavel

Right in the center of town by the shore, this restaurant is slightly touristy with some mediocre dishes as a result. BUT it was one of the few places with gluten-free pasta in town and the clams did not disappoint. I’d recommend it just for a vongole with a view.

Source: https://feedmephoebe.com/best-slovenia-restaurants-hotels-itinerary/

#read more #see more #check it out #interesting #learn more

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middletuna7-blog · 6 years ago

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A Healthy Hedonist’s Guide to Slovenia

The question I got asked the most this summer (besides why I decided to elope) was what made me choose Slovenia for our big summer trip. (And, er, where is that, again?)

Read on for my tips on eating gluten-free in Slovenia, the best restaurants we tried, hotels with stayed in, and how to plan an epic road trip itinerary.

With health and hedonism,

Phoebe

How to Eat Gluten-Free in Slovenia

Thanks to the neighboring countries, you’ll encounter a lot of different culinary influences depending on where you are in Slovenia.

10 Days in Slovenia: A Road Trip Itinerary

Our time in Slovenia was designed around two main events: a 3-day trek through the Julian Alps and the Socca Valley, and dinner at Hisa Franko, which we locked in before we even had plane tickets!

A few other notes:

Day 1: Arrive in Venice and drive to Ljubljana. Wander the canal in the afternoon and enjoy dinner at Spajza.

Day 2: In the morning, visit Central Market and explore the castle. Drive to Bled (45 minutes) in the afternoon. Walk around the perimeter of the lake. Enjoy dinner at Castle Bled Restaurant.

Day 4 – 5: Drive to Kranjska Gora and begin hut to hut hike through the Julian Alps and into the Socca Valley.

Day 6: Finish the hike. Return to your car and drive to Kobarid in the Socca Valley. Go to Hisa Franko for dinner and stay there for the night!

Day 8: Relax in Piran. Bike through Portorosso to the salt flats and dip in the Adriatic. Enjoy dinner at Pri Mari.

Day 9: Optional day trip to Croatia or unwind again by the sea in Piran.

Day 10: Return to Venice and fly home.

LJUBLJANA

What to Do and Where to Stay in Ljubljana

Hotel Cubo

We loved the sleek feel of this boutique hotel and its proximity to the center of old town. Request a room facing the castle!

Where to Eat in Ljubljana: The Best Gluten-Free Restaurants

Spajza

TaBar

Gelateria Romantika

Monstera Bistro

LAKE BLED

What to Do in Lake Bled

Where to Stay in Lake Bled

Garden Village Bled

Vila Bled

The Best Gluten-Free Restaurants in Lake Bled

Bled Castle Restaurant

Penzion Berc

Ostarijia Peglez’n

Restaurant Vrtnarija (at Garden Village Bled)

Sova

Unfortunately we didn’t make it to this cute wine bar just a short walk from our glamping site, but I heard great things. I wish we had tried it instead of Penzion Berc!

THE JULIAN ALPS AND THE SOCCA VALLEY

So, as for the main event…

GORISKA BRDA WINE REGION

Since most of these wineries of small family-run operations, you can’t just show up. Email them in advance to set up a tasting session or lunch reservation.

PIRAN

What to Do in Piran

Where to Stay in Piran

Hotel Piran

The Best Gluten-Free Restaurants in Piran

Pri Mari

Rizibizi

Pavel

Source: https://feedmephoebe.com/best-slovenia-restaurants-hotels-itinerary/

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adventures-with-emma-blog · 8 years ago

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Brexit Tour: The Summary Part 1 - Overview of Everything

Budget and Costs:

First things first, I saved up plenty of money to do this, more than I actually needed in the end, which was excellent. So it meant i wasnt exactly watching what i was spending - so if you’re looking for advice on keeping costs low, I’m probably not going to offer you much enlightening advice with this section!

In total, over the course of 5 weeks i spent appoximately £1,300, this included: -interrail ticket + eurostar ticket + a few train/bus/tram tickets within the countries i visited -Food and Alcohol (lots and lots of alcohol) -Accommodation -excursions (eg. caves, castles, boat parties, spas etc)

Train Travel:

I really enjoyed inter-railing, i really loved travelling across the land, getting a real sense of the scale of Europe. Not only that but getting a glimpse into other, ore rural parts of the country that you wouldn't necessarily chose to visit. Through farmland, and small non-touristy towns.

The most beautiful journey by far was from Munich, Germany to Ljubljana, Slovenia. It went through the Austrian Alps, snow covered and shining in the glorious sunshine. But I’m assuming it would just as beautiful in the summer this route.

A downside to train travel is that some trains can be delayed, i found myself sat in a station in the freezing cold more that once, but most of the trains did run smoothly. Although, they were pretty quiet (dont know whether its down to it being winter or not but), I got 4 seats and a table to myself on most of the long distance trains (>3 hours). Which did make the whole experience pretty comfortable, much more room than you would get on a plane/bus/car.

Another problem is that some journeys are pretty long (but i guess you could avoid this). I ended up doing 20 hours of train travel within 3 days Prague - Glasgow when heading home. Which was pretty dull and tiring.

A problem i did notice with trains in europe, particularly if you are doing long distance travel between countries like i was, is that on the boards in the station, it doesnt always state every station that the train stops at. Not only this but i ended up on a few trains that part way through the journey the train number would change ( ie. if you were to look it up from one station it would be called something else. for example the IC 211 from munich would be the IC71 from Salzberg << note: not a real example) which was a little confusing. Not only this but some trains actually split into 2 seperate trains midway through the journey - and this wasnt always very clear - particularly if you dont speak the local language, so watch out for that!

Thankfully, I didnt have any problems, and somehow made it smoothly through ever train journey i took - although i did get very confused and stressed at times ( Emma Queen of Trains!)

Accommodation:

I stayed in hostels throughout this trip, ranging from £7pn to £12pn for 8-10 bed dormitory rooms ( well other than the few nights i spent with a family friend). Every hostel i stayed in was clean and fufilled easily my needs of somewhere warm and comfortable to sleep, with hot showers and somewhere comfortable to relax. However it became quickly apparent that some hostels are much better than other for solo travellers. However even when i worked out what i was looking for in a hostel, this wasn’t always possible to get within my price range. I booked my hostels as i went along, so while in one location, i would book my accommodation for the place i was moving to next. This allowed me some flexibility with my travel. Allowed me to change route slightly, or even spend a few days more in a location i was enjoying!

Meeting People:

As a fairly quiet and shy individual this was a part of the trip that i was pretty worried about. Not so much would i meet people to talk to, but would I actually be able to strike up enough conversation for people to want to spend time with me/ do things with me/ have a drink and a laugh with me?

Turns out yes, i am capable of this, and its a nice feeling :)

I met so many amazing people on my trip, a few that stood out in particular and made my trip special, even more amazing, and with their brief presence have made a big impact on my life! I cannot wait to see them all again someday.

But a huuuuuuge part of making these friendships is to stay at a very social hostel. Stay in a dorm room at a hostel with communal areas and preferably one that organises evening activities and you will be thrust into crowds of likeminded travellers looking for people to talk to ( rather than some who arent particularly social that you may be sharing a room with ).

Plans and Timescale:

I am a very organised person, I like to know what im doing in advance, im not very spontaneous, i like having a layed out set of plans to stick to and get me by. This is not possible with travelling. I didnt expect it to be, it wasnt, and y’know what? I dont even care! :) If youre like me and feel the need to organise every moment of your trip, dont get too hung up on details, its much easier just to go with the flow. Plan yourself a rough route like i did, with aims of what you want to see/ where you want to go, and approximately how long for. but do not expect to stick to it exactly. For example, i spent 2 extra days in Budapest that i planned cause i loved the city and the hostel so much. I rerouted Romania entirely due to a fault with my own planning and went to a city i hadn’t even heard of instead! I slept in and caught different trains than planned ( cause i was hungover).

It’s these small details that make the trip more enjoyable and less stressful. Don’t think you have to do everything, see everything, and be busy learning and being cultured every second of the day. It’s not going to happen, and trust me it doesnt even matter. Just being in the hostel lounging about and chatting with fellow travellers and doing nothing productive is an important part of the experience. - You’re never going to have enough energy to go non-stop anyway unless your some sort of machine!

Summary:

Basically, i had the time of my life. I already have several new friends that i can go stay with all over the world. I’ve seen so many beautiful countries that ive never visited before. I have seen awe-inspiring sights. Ate delicious local food. Partied in some of the best bars i’ve ever visited. (Coming soon - hostels i stayed in and my reviews of them - brief run down of the cities i stayed in and what i recommend seeing/ whats not worth seeing/ what i wish i had seen) PS: If youre european and want to visit australia, travel europe in winter - i now have a contact in all the major cities! Aussies everywhere! PPS: Any questions about my trip or my first experiences as a solo traveller, please please please just ask :) Visit my instagram for more trip photos: instagram.com/emmalucyangus

#europe #travel #blog #interrail #eu #train #rail #accommodation #hostel #travellers #solo travel #female #girl #planning #route #budget #cost #overview #review

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politicalfilth-blog · 7 years ago

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Luckbox Mark Cuban Hates Bitcoin And Gold, The Two Best-Performing Assets

I was around for the 1990s tech bubble and the most shocking deal I remember from that time period was when Mark Cuban sold what was basically just a domain name, Broadcast.com, along with some recording equipment he had at home, for $5.7 billion to Yahoo in April of 1999!

At the time, I was moving my company, Stockhouse.com, which was the top financial website in many countries across the world then, towards a Nasdaq listing and we had just rented out the office across the street from the New York Stock Exchange for some extravagant sum, like $1 million/month.

We were preparing to raise $300 million, though, and become essentially an online version of CNBC in what was called “broadband” then. We even hired away one of CNBC’s top producers, who turned out to be the worst employee I’ve ever had and after three months, we ended up paying him out some obscene sum just so he’d leave.

Well, a year went by and the tech bubble burst so I ended up selling the company for peanuts. I looked back on Cuban’s deal and thought two things. Wow, his timing for the sale was perfect, getting out before the tech bubble popped.

And, secondly, he must have been the luckiest guy in the world or, more likely, had participated in some sort of collusion with some directors in Yahoo to manage to sell what was basically nothing for over $5 billion!

It was literally worse than most ICOs these days… it was simply a web address and some cheap recording equipment lying around Mark’s house! And, Yahoo never even did anything with it… at all. In fact, if you go to Broadcast.com today, it just forwards to Yahoo.com.

This was easily the most expensive domain name sale ever!

Since then, the bumbling Frankenstein look-alike has gone on to buy a basketball team with his fortune and be featured in a few reality shows where he seems to seek constant attention.

So, when he came out this week and made a fool of himself, I had to laugh.

“I hate gold. Gold is a religion,” said crony-capitalist Mark Cuban in a recent interview, adding that he views cryptocurrencies as simply “collectibles.”

Mark clearly knows nothing about money or investments if he thinks gold is just a “religion” and cryptocurrencies are just “collectibles.”

In fact, if he had invested his profits from the ludicrous sale of his domain name into gold and then bitcoin he’d be the wealthiest person on Earth. Let’s do the math.

He owned approximately ⅓ of Broadcast.com when it sold for $5.7 billion, netting him $1.8 billion in 1999. According to Forbes, as of January 2018, he is now worth $3.8 billion, meaning he has averaged a 4% annual increase.

If, in 1999, he had put his $1.8 billion into gold, which was trading at $290, and just kept it there until now at $1,350, he’d be worth over $6.5 billion. Or, more than double what he is currently worth.

And, if he had taken his gold holdings and put it into bitcoin in, say 2011, when we recommended bitcoin at $3, he’d have made a gain of over 230,000% and his $1.8 billion, which would have been over $5 billion by investing in gold, would then be worth $12 trillion, easily making him the wealthiest man in the world… well, except for the Rothschilds and the secret banking families.

Of course, he couldn’t have possibly purchased that much bitcoin at that price as it simply didn’t exist at the time.

But, if he had just picked up some gold and bitcoin along the way, he’d certainly be worth much, much more than he is today.

Thus, he really hates gold.

“Hate is not strong enough,” Cuban said, “Hate with extreme prejudice… hate with extreme prejudice is not enough, hate with double extreme prejudice with an ounce of hot sauce.”

No wonder he’s so angry. He wasted most of his wealth trying to be a reality TV star and purchasing a company of guys who chase each other around bouncing a ball and throwing it in a basket to lull the enslaved masses into a beer-infused stupor.

Simultaneously, though, Cuban endorses both the corrupted, top-down education system and the centrally planned, fiat dollar-based fractional reserve banking system that is responsible for at least one major financial crisis each decade and impoverishes everyone except the rich… like him.

Precious metals and cryptocurrencies happen to be the free market solutions to a collapsing dollar system, empowering people everywhere to survive and thrive, but Shark Cuban hates them.

The fiat system of debt is a house of cards supporting his favorite religion, the State. Now there’s something to hate.

Religion may have been first, but the State has become the most dangerous religion, robbing millions and killing countless in endless wars for oil and power.

The reason gold is preferred by people who care about freedom is because a gold standard handcuffs the State. It restricted politicians from overspending on rackets like “national defense” and it prevented government from rapidly building up the "public debt."

As Alan Greenspan put it, a gold standard checks the welfare state. That's probably why Cuban hates gold.

Actually, it makes perfect sense why this clown would love the State: he regularly uses it to protect his corporate patents.

Ironically though, it’s another case of “do as I say, not as I do,” because Mark also claims to despise the patent system.

As IP Watchdog detailed:

“Cuban has an outsized influence in this patent debate, and is walking both sides of the aisle. He has personally invested hundreds of thousands of dollars into the fight to stop what he characterizes as stupid patents, and he has invested millions into a business that only has those same stupid patents as the main asset.”

IP Watchdog goes on to describe how Cuban raised his “personal financial stake in a non-practicing entity” that also just so happened to be suing Google over a patent claim.

How convenient…

This kind of hypocrisy and doublespeak has become expected from the guy who announced in January that his sports team will begin accepting bitcoin payments “next season.”

Instead of worshipping at the altar of the State for so many years and telling his followers “the most patriotic thing” a person can do is “Pay your taxes. Lots of taxes,” Cuban should’ve read TDV (subscribe HERE), where we’ve helped thousands of people capitalize massively on gold and crypto.

But who needs to be a wise or savvy investor when you can just use the guns of your government god to impose your will on others?

Sorry Mark (not sorry), but the religion of the State is collapsing while assets like precious metals and cryptocurrencies are helping usher in this new era faster than your goons can regulate.

How ‘bout them Mavs though?

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About the Author

Anarcho-Capitalist. Libertarian. Freedom fighter against mankind’s two biggest enemies, the State and the Central Banks. Jeff Berwick is the founder of The Dollar Vigilante and host of the popular video podcast, Anarchast. Jeff is a prominent speaker at many of the world’s freedom, investment and cryptocurrency conferences including his own, Anarchapulco, as well as regularly in the media including CNBC, Bloomberg and Fox Business. Jeff also posts exclusive content daily to the new blockchain based social media network, Steemit.

from The Dollar Vigilante https://dollarvigilante.com/blog/2018/04/11/luckbox-mark-cuban-hates-bitcoin-and-gold-the-two-best-performing-assets.html via The Dollar Vigilante

#Politics #Investing #The Dollar Vigilante

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