#The Marías is one of my favorite groups and this was on the top of my LP wishlist
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#im so happy!!!#The Marías is one of my favorite groups and this was on the top of my LP wishlist#such good albums and the red is so cool#I had to order it from England and even there it was always out of stock#LPs#vinyl#vinyle#LP collection#LP#music#The Marías#Superclean#vol I & II#collection#vinyls#new purchase
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blanca has a playlist now!
it’s a little over an hour long, + i made one on youtube for anyone who wants to listen but doesn’t use spotify. there’s 18 songs, about half of them are in spanish. i couldn’t find any spanish/english lyric videos so sorry about that </3 but i did put in some mvs that i thought were cool on the youtube playlist. (except for the pretty woman one lmao the message at the end is good but it’s uhhh… kinda weird lol so feel free to ignore it and just listen to the song)
background for the songs below the cut if anyone’s curious!
songs 2-11 are basically just blanca and her experiences that made her who she is + her personality.
songs with [*] are the ones i recommend watching the music videos for cause i think they’re pretty cool :b
i’m from LA - self explanatory right?? lol
son mis locuras - blanca’s inner monologue while she’s still living with her family, i guess? nothing super deep. i like the line “me dicen ‘nena, te pareces a tu abuela’” (“they tell me ‘baby, you look like your grandma’”) because blanca’s named after her maternal grandma, so that’s a fun coincidence with her story and the song that i didn’t even think of when i added it to her playlist at first tbh
maría la curandera - it’s like her favorite tía in mexico teaching her about doing limpias (spiritual cleansings) for herself when she visited as a kid. cozy comforting vibe overall
cumbia feminista, mujer moderna, whore - these are grouped together because they deal with purity culture, which is something blanca had to deal with her whole life and it felt like it got worse the older she got. people trying to dictate what she wore, how she expressed herself, being catcalled and shamed, all that fun stuff :))) whore specifically relates to her dynamic with someone from her past who tried to put his idealized image onto her and got mad when it didn’t line up with who she actually is. she blares that song when she’s reminiscing and she looooves shouting “you love me for everything you hate me for” at the top of her lungs.
crumbling down → recuérdame → la llorona* - things are rough, but she’s alright for the most part now that she’s living on her own finally. → death of the tía she was close to, she struggles with it a lot because she felt like no one else really understood and accepted her fully. → remembering the time she was visiting said tía and how she and her cousin saw la llorona! the song comforts her because it’s a reminder and again, she thought la llorona was kind of pretty. (she wonders if la llorona scared the shit out of her cousin on purpose, to make him drop her instead of tossing her into the river to fuck with her…)
la vida es un sueño* - she lives life how the hell she wants! she’s over people trying to take advantage of her and tell her how to act. she’s angry and tired and done. side note, my favorite lines are “corazón sangrado, me has abandonado / necesito una limpia, que ando embrujado” (“bleeding heart, you abandoned me / i need a cleansing, because i’m cursed”)
songs 12-18 are the mushy toca (toki/blanca, coincidentally this means “touch” in spanish!) songs LOLLL i think the lyrics are pretty obvious so i won’t go into detail too much. i’ll add in (b) and (t) to show whose pov the songs are from
can’t get you out of my head (b) - “…shit i have a crush.”
oh, pretty woman (t) - HAHA he has one too you shy tsundere loser deal with it he likes you >:) pay attention to him dammit!
afraid (t) - ohhh she’s scared. but why? hm. alright
your sweet six six six (t) - the LET ME IN eric andre meme. he’ll be nice :( give him a chance don’t pass this up c’mon
sour candy (b) - give her a second to thaw out, she’ll get there
mary on a cross (t) - another nudge. he’s not scared off at all.
love song (b) - :)
#blanca tag🤍⛓️#blanca tennebris#metalocalypse oc#mtl oc#i didn’t think i had this much to say LOL whoops
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Hi! I have questions, too, if you’re up for them! Feel free not to answer anything if it makes you uncomfortable.
Do you have siblings, and if so how many? Are you close?
What’re your top five places around the world you’d like to visit someday? Can include places you’ve already traveled to but would like to visit again.
Book recommendations? In Spanish or English 😊💜
Hope you have a love day/night!!!!!!!
💜💜💜💜💜💜💜
Hi Eleanor!! I am always up for questions I love them lol
Yes I have one sibling! A twin sister actually (non identical, which is a bummer but still a twin). We are really close. Like really close. Since we both chose different careers at uni (as normal ppl do) we don't see each other as often as we did but in my last year of high school she and I were in the same class and we have the same school friend group so I've literally spent 24 hours a day with my sister side by side (also we didn't have friends growing up so we were stuck together for most part of our childhood which has lead to lots of sharing memories and being able to more or less predict what the other is thinking bc of similar reasoning patterns)
Oh I love love love travelling!! I love this question, really. I'd like to visit the Taj Mahal (been wanting to since I was little), el Ateneo in Buenos Aires (is a library inside of a theatre my mind was blown), New York (cause idk it's New York, you know? from a non american person it's a pretty wow city), the Neuschwanstein castle in Bavaria (since this year I'd like to go thanks to a project I'm working on) and....Paris again cause last time I went my whole trip was ruined :(
Book recs huh.. I guess it depends on what genre you like but I'm gonna take the opportunity to recommend some spanish books I liked if you don't mind!
"Todas las Hadas del Reino" (All The Fairies of the Kingdom) by Laura Gallego is a dark fairytale about a fairy godmother with lots of ppl to attend. Laura Gallego introduced me to fantasy and YA (i guess) and I have this book in my heart.
Anything by Iria G. Parente and Selene M. Pascual (my favorites of them are the "Secrets of the Full Moon" trilogy which is high fantasy with fae and elves and the like, but recently they published a wlw sci fi retelling of the Hades and Persephone myth and my friend @neliakey can tell you all about it, it's called "La Flor Y la Muerte" i think? (The Flower and The Death)).
If you are into historical fiction "El Tiempo Entre Costuras" by María Dueñas (Time in between Seams) is an awesome (with an incredible show adaptation) book about a spanish girl who travels to Morocco when the Spanish Civil War is going on, and she sends codes in the patterns of her dresses to the republicans in order to win the war.
Have a good day/night!!
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✨interview tag
thank u queen may @filterjimins for tagging me 🥺 (i started this literally a month ago and found it in my drafts 😭 but now i’m finally doing it 🤌) as usual whoever sees this is tagged 🤪✌️
name/nickname: tatum
pronouns: she/her
star sign: taurus
height: 5’5”
time currently: 05:33 ahaha
when is your birthday: in april <3
nationality: american but i live in france rn
favorite bands/groups: bts, the regrettes, lunar vacation, the marías, the neighbourhood, between friends
favorite solo artists: alina baraz, ariana grande, kim petras, angèle, tove lo, victoria monét
song stuck in your head: telepathy by bts has been stuck in my head all mf week. & rn we might be falling in love by victoria monét
last movie you watched: because i said so, it’s my roomies fav
last show you binged: bridgerton w my mama when i was home for christmas <3
when you created your (main) blog: uhhh i wanna say 2 years ago? but i had another blog before that that i created 8 years ago but i deleted it
last thing you googled: yoga mat paris (secured le sac on that)
other blogs: sweetvelvetmoon. this is an ✨aesthetic✨ blog i created when i wasn’t in any fandoms but i wanted a tumblr again
why i chose my url: slow it down by kim petras is one of my all time favorite songs
how many people are you following: 184. used to be sooo much more but i recently cleared it out
how many followers do you have: like 35 lol🥲
average hours of sleep: i think 7
lucky number: 4
instruments: ukelele & piano
what i’m currently wearing: a t shirt & no pants 😀👍
dream job: omg so many. i really wanna work in film bc it’s my major, film festivals or award shows too. also a translator or a tour guide somewhere cool, or a trip advisor person
favorite food: spicy fried chicken but i have yet to find a restaurant in paris that makes it as good as it is back home
favorite song: my spotify 2020 top song was malibu by kim petras 🤪 current favs are telepathy by bts, casio by jungle, paranoid by kanye west & jaguar by victoria monét
dream trip: again, so many. japan, greece, iceland, barcelona, berlin, norway, bali, seoul, switzerland.... literally so many places. c*vid has devastated my travel plans for the year 🥲👍
top three fictional universes: uuum idk about universes but vampire au, witch au & uni au bc i no longer have a normal uni experience so i like to live vicariously through them
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I got tagged by the lovely @tomagucci, yey ✨🥰
Rules: Answer 21 questions and tag 21 people you would like to get to know better!
Nickname? Most people call me MaJo (mah-ho) it’s short for...-
Real name? María José (👈🏽) Caballero Sibrián
Zodiac? I’m Virgo 😉😉
Favorite musicians or groups? Oh boy, oh boy Panic! at The Disco, Five Seconds Of Summer, Fall Out Boy, Shawn Mendes, Soda Stereo, Hailee Steinfield, The XX, Arcade Fire, Clairo, Rosalia... and on and on and on
Favorite sports team? “Soccer” F.C. Barcelona; baseball L.A. Dodgers
Other blogs? No, I only have one
Do I get asks? Noup, it’s mostly empty
How many blogs I follow? I think 197
Tumblr crushes? Uffff, anyone that interacts with me in here - hehehe just kidding
Lucky numbers? I guess 42
What am I wearing? An A-Shirt and some flower printed pajama pants
Dream vacation? Ireland 🇮🇪
Dream car? I like mostly “classic” cars, I love Chevy Camaros, the Impalas are really pretty, and the Jeeps CJ5 ufff
Favorite food? I mean, food in general, as long as the food is tasty
Drink of choice? Sodas Dr.Pepper and Pepsi, i like teas, milkshakes too
Instruments? Guitar, badly
Languages? Spanish is my mother tongue, English -is a side effects of Big Time Rush- and tiny little bit of French
Celebrity crushes? I have a whole album in my phone, but the out of the top of my head: Keanu Reeves, Andrew Garfield, Samara Weaving, Dove Cameron
Random Facts? I’ve never had cavities or broken a bone -even tough I have the most dramatics fells ás a kid-
I tag: damn idk @ozzo-the-wozzo @ohwowvxlerie @actualwizardbillykaplan @amethystocean-adr @charmingpplincardigans @theramblinganalyst @r0xias @thegirlwhohatesit @feuerschutz @fallen-soul7 @dreammetheworld @iamthewitchintown @giveamadeuschohisownmovie @omgmadbaex @wendigio @dalagangbukid @salve--amice @quickspinner @lady-charinette
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i was tagged by @infernokid 🌸
1. Nicknames: i don't really have nicknames, other than the short form of my name (Irina, Iri)
2. Zodiac Sign: aquarius
3. Height: 1.64m, which is 5'3" or 5'4" inches???
4. Hogwarts: never watched harry potter, but i have taken the test a couple of times and i always get a different result. every house except gryffindor, apparently
5. Last Thing I googled: "slash natal chart", yes i love astrology, let me be lol
6. Favourite Musicians/singer/group: i don't really have favorites, but these last few weeks i've been listening to Black Sabbath, FleetwoodMac, Mötley Crüe and The Marías
8. Following Now: 243
9. Followers: 651 on my main, 148 on this sideblog
10. Do I Get Asks?: rarely
11. Amount of 💤?: eight to nine hours on a regular day, five hours or less when i have classes
12. Lucky Number: 8
13. What I’m Wearing: black crop top that i cut and bleached myself, jorts (jean shorts)
14. Dream Job: something related to the film industry, or maybe art teacher
15. Dream Trip: to any beach or anywhere out of the country, with friends
16. Favourite Food: any kind of pasta
17. Instruments: none
18. Languages: spanish (native), english (fluent)
19. Favourite Song: at the moment, Où va le monde, by La Femme
20. Random Fact: one time when i was nine i was skating on the streets. i was going really fast, then i fell and landed on my face. i broke my front teeth and messed up half my face, because i was too dumb to use my hands to break the fall (still am lmao)
21. Aesthetic: nerd goth, or lazy goth
I tag: @mycandylavynder @mycandylovenaire if you haven't done it already, and anyone who wants to do it but hasn't been tagged yet
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Top 10 Artists I've Discovered in 2018
So (in no particular order) I'm gonna list my favorite artists I've discovered or looked into this past 2018!
Ariel Pink: I'm pretty sure I found him while listening to a Spotify radio station. He's got a very distinct sound which my friend described as "80's Tame Impala." He has this very interesting vibe to his stuff and I think his song titles are clever. Before Today and Dedicated to Bobby Jameson are really great albums, and possibly some of my favorite I've come across this year.
Janelle Monáe: WOW. Just wow. I first heard "Locked Inside" in a GAP outlet last year, but didn't really sift through all her music until Dirty Computer was announced. That album is so amazing and I bought it on CD the moment I listened to it (it takes a lot for me to want to buy an album). Her film that went along with the album was such a visual and auditory treat- and when she came out as pansexual I got so excited because there is an artist out there like me to follow and love. I also love her older albums, especially The Archandroid. Absolute legend.
Jupiter: They've got really heavy synth and I love love love love. It kind of sounds like it's from the 80s. The singer has a high pitched voice so this band might not be everyone's cup of tea. Bandana Republic is, in my opinion, their best album.
Dent May: He's got an interesting voice and I love it. I also love the way he incorporates synth and guitars and he's just overall really cool! Across the Multiverse and Do Things are really good albums.
LOONA: Ah!! Loona!! My friend loves them and so earlier this year I checked them out before their debut (I think at that point Egoist was their newest song), and I found myself surprised by how much I liked them! They're fun and have a really cool aesthetic. I can't pick a favorite song or member.
Kero Kero Bonito: I don't love all the songs from KKB but this group is super duper fun! Actually figured out they did Flamingo after I started listening to their album Bonito Generation. "Big City," "Break," and "Try Me" are my favorites. They came out with a new album this year too! Love their electronic sound and Sarah's voice! They got a nice vibe.
Unknown Mortal Orchestra: They definitely overplay this band on the radio, but they're really cool and I really like their songs.
The Marías: They don't have a lot of songs, but they're very chill. They do songs in English and Spanish. They have a sort of lo-fi sound, and have a really nice slow beat to their songs. I highly recommend them.
Thundercat: Love this guy. His lyrics are wacky and match the tone of his songs, and his bass work is very distinct and easily recognizable. His songs, even if their lyrics are ironic or funny, have a relaxing, almost ethereal quality to them. I discovered him through "Is It Love?" And started listening to Drunk in late 2017/ early 2018. I've probably listened to "Bus in These Streets" more than any other song because it reminds me of Neil Postman and one of my English teachers.
TV Girl: Honestly? There's not much to this band besides that I like the music. Not particularly striking vocals, but I do enjoy the way that there's talking ingrained within the songs. The instrumentals are nice, and I love listening when I want to zone out. It's also not everyone's cup of tea.
I tag @slimesandwich and @wanli-mp3 if yall wanna do this too!
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Día de los Muertos en Oaxaca
Here’s a journal entry I had to write for class about my experience celebrating Day of the Dead in Oaxaca:
When I talked to my dad about our trip to Oaxaca during the Day of the Dead, the first thing he asked me was “Whose grave did you party on?”. I think (and hope) that he was mostly joking, but the sentiment behind his question is one shared by many people in the United States. I’ve talked to people in our group who have had trouble explaining the holiday to friends and family back home or feel uncomfortable about it themselves. Many unfamiliar with the celebration see it as morbid, creepy, irreverent, or lump it in to the same category as Halloween. I’m grateful I was able to celebrate Day of the Dead in Oaxaca because it gave me a better understanding of Day of the Dead as a celebration of life and an incredible manifestation of the Mexican values of family, food, community, and humor.
Watching the Disney movie “Coco” as well as reading articles about Day of the Dead was very helpful in getting a better understanding of the holiday before our trip to Oaxaca. We learned about the significance of the ofrendas, altares, and cempasúchils that we saw all throughout the streets of Querétaro, as well as how Day of the Dead has become more commercialized and westernized in recent years as it has taken on more aspects of Halloween. My favorite article we read was by Octavio Paz. His writing on death was poetic, unique, and described very well what I think the differences are between the Mexican and U.S. views of death. He writes, “The word death is not pronounced in New York, in Paris, in London, because it burns the lips. The Mexican, in contrast, is familiar with death, jokes about it, caresses it, sleeps with it, celebrates it; it is one of his favorite toys and his most steadfast love. True, there is perhaps as much fear in his attitude as in that of others, but at least death is not hidden away; he looks at it face to face, with impatience, disdain, or irony”. I think this quote really explains why the holiday is hard for us to understand. Mexican culture has a fundamentally different view of death than we do. Mexico’s relationship with death is not solemn. I have seen this played out during conversations with Mexicans here in Querétaro. Overall I feel the Mexican culture is more apt to use humor to make fun of things they feel they have no control over. This is an idea that Octavio Paz explores often in his work.
The night of November second, our group had the opportunity to visit a graveyard in Santa María del Tule, Oaxaca. The atmosphere inside the graveyard was like that of a carnival. There were hundreds of people of all different ages, food vendors, live music, and almost all of the graves were decorated with candles, food, and flowers. Families sat huddled around graves of their dead relatives, eating mole and drinking tequila or mezcal. There are a few scenes from the graveyard that especially stood out to me and encapsulate what the holiday is in my mind. I remember standing and watching three young boys dressed up as skeletons running around spraying silly string on each other and the surrounding graves while their parents looked on, smiling. I couldn’t imagine my little brother being allowed to do that in a graveyard. I also saw an old man stoop down to pour a shot of mezcal on top of a loved one’s tombstone and then drink the rest. This act of “sharing” a drink with someone who had passed away seemed so intimate that I was ashamed I had watched him from afar. I also heard a dad leading his young daughter by the hand through the graveyard in the dark and singing a happy tune with the words “tumbas, tumbas, tumbas”. I was not taught lighthearted songs to sing in graveyards as a child.
My favorite memory from the graveyard in Oaxaca was when a small group of us was approached by a woman named Adrianna. She came up to us and offered mezcal from her plastic coke bottle. She welcomed us and pointed over to about ten of her family members who were all seated around the graves of her brother and father. Adrianna explained to us that she really does believe that on November second the spirits of her ancestors come and spend time with their family and eat the food they have laid out for them. Her favorite part of the holiday is the “convivencia”. This word means coexistence, community, and spending time together. Most people at that cemetery knew each other because they were all from the same small pueblo. We paused our conversation several times so that she could greet friends and neighbors. Her family all lived in the pueblo and would be buried together in this cemetery. During Day of the Dead, Adrianna was spending time with family, friends, and neighbors both dead and alive.
In a quiet moment at the cemetery, Brianna asked me what I thought of all of this. I looked around at the tight-knit community celebrating the lives of those who had passed away and realized that actually I had participated in something similar before. Aspects of it reminded me of Easter with my mom’s family. Every year at Easter after church my grandparents, aunts, and uncles pack up the car with buckets of fresh flowers from my grandma’s garden and visit the local cemetery. They live in a small town, so they know a lot of the people buried there. First, they visit the graves of my great grandparents and other family members. Towards the end of their visit, they’re putting flowers on the graves of almost anyone. I remember being “introduced” to old neighbors, friends, and even my mom’s old marching band teacher. The mood is not depressing. Everyone is working together to fill buckets with water, calling out from the graveyard “hey! look who’s buried here!” and exchanging funny memories and gossip. Some people in our group said they had never been to a graveyard before and that their families never talked about loved ones who had passed away, but I had my experiences in the cemetery with my relatives to compare with Day of the Dead. Easter trips to the cemetery are different than Day of the Dead because my relatives don’t believe the people whose graves they are visiting are literally present with them. They do, however, value the “keeping alive” of people buried there through telling stories to younger generations just as the Mexicans do. Also, both my family and the Mexican families I met are enjoying each other’s company at the cemetery and the spirit of “convivencia”. The two trips to the graveyard remind me of one another because of the celebration of family and community and honoring those who have passed away. These aspects of Day of the Dead embody my favorite part about Mexican culture- the emphasis on breaking bread with friends and family. I don’t think Day of the Dead is creepy or morbid. There is something beautiful and cyclical about making new memories together as a family in a graveyard- a place where memories dwell. I loved “partying on people’s graves” and “conviviring” with the dead (so to speak), and want to carry on aspects of the holiday when I return home.
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New Post has been published on https://toldnews.com/travel/dont-call-it-tex-mex/
Don’t Call It Tex-Mex
HOUSTON — This city’s Second Ward is full of temptations for Adán Medrano, a writer and chef who lives just a few miles southeast.
The Mexican-American neighborhood is home to the perfect flaky tortillas at Doña María Mexican Cafe, scratch-made in flour or corn, and ready to be folded around eggs with the fine threads of dried beef called machacado. It has the off-menu roasted tamales at the Original Alamo Tamales, with blackened husks and caramelized edges of masa and meat. And there’s Taqueria Chabelita, where the owner, Isabel Henriquez Hernandez, makes pinto beans whose smoky intensity comes not from pork fat, but from a slow char in a hot pan.
For Mr. Medrano, who grew up in San Antonio with generations of relatives on both sides of the Rio Grande, this is all his comfort food, his culinary heritage, his comida casera, or Mexican home cooking.
Just don’t call it Tex-Mex, he said. He prefers to describe it as Texas Mexican, which is also how he describes himself.
Texas Mexican is the indigenous cooking of South Texas, according to Mr. Medrano, 71, whose second cookbook, “Don’t Count the Tortillas: The Art of Texas Mexican Cooking,” will be published in June by Texas Tech University Press. It’s the food that’s been made by families like his on this land since before the Rio Grande marked a border, when Texas was a part of Mexico, and long before then.
Don’t get him wrong: Tex-Mex is a cuisine that should be respected and celebrated, he said. It’s just that Tex-Mex standards like queso and combo fajitas piled high with chicken and shrimp don’t speak of home to those whose Texas roots go back some 12,000 years.
“That’s not our food,” said Mr. Medrano, who has spent the better part of a decade defining his cuisine, inspiring a growing number of Texas Mexicans in the process. “We don’t eat like that.”
You can find Texas Mexican here at Mr. Medrano’s Houston go-tos, and at decades-old San Antonio West Side lunch spots like Old Danny’s Cocina, or even newer favorites like El Puesto No. 2 down the street. It’s at Maria’s Restaurant in downtown McAllen and at Cafe Amiga in Brownsville, both run by granddaughters of their founders.
It is dishes like chicken poached with striped green squash and corn, the tomato-noodle soup called fideo, and gulf shrimp and cactus stewed in a mix of dried red chiles. It’s the simple ground beef picadillo or the beef-and-potato stew called carne guisada, both subtly seasoned with a pounded paste of black peppercorn, garlic and cumin, which Mr. Medrano describes as the Texas Mexican version of the Cajun holy trinity.
It is what Juan Hernandez, of Doña María Mexican Cafe, has always described as “mama-style cooking”— the mama in this case being his wife, Anna Hernandez, who grew up a block away from the restaurant and is a co-owner. Mr. Hernandez would never call the food she makes Tex-Mex; in fact, it inspired Tex-Mex.
That began in the early 1900s, when local Mexican-American home cooking was first adapted in restaurants run “by Anglos for Anglos,” Mr. Medrano said. In the 1970s, writers started referring to that hybridized cuisine as Tex-Mex: refried beans as smooth as pancake batter; chili made with powdered spices and stock, instead of the carne con chiles based on whole dried red chiles; fajitas with anything other than the skirt steak that gave the dish its name; and extra cheese on everything.
The idea of distinguishing Texas Mexican from Tex-Mex came to him after he enrolled in the Culinary Institute of America program in San Antonio in 2010, after careers in producing and writing for television, and awarding foundation grants to nonprofit arts and education projects. Mr. Medrano, who also founded San Antonio’s annual Latino film festival in 1977, originally took the classes for fun, he said, but they led him to an epiphany: After decades in the shadows, his food needed not just a champion, but a name.
Mr. Medrano didn’t want to use the word Tejano, because it is sometimes used to highlight Spanish colonial ancestry rather than native heritage, and because spelling Texas with a J instead of an X is a European practice.
He came up with a better term after learning about the distinct regional cuisines of Mexico, realizing that he had essentially grown up with one of his own. “You have Oaxacan Mexican, you have Jaliscan Mexican,” Mr. Medrano said. “Why not Texas Mexican?”
His initial research on the history of this food became his first cookbook, “Truly Texas Mexican: A Native Culinary Heritage in Recipes,” published in 2014.
Since then, Mr. Medrano has traveled the region, cooking, lecturing at schools and museums, and gathering knowledge from chefs, anthropologists and home cooks, many of whom are quoted in “Don’t Count the Tortillas.” (This summer he will even make carne guisada tacos at a Fourth of July celebration in Moscow, at the residence of the United States ambassador to Russia.)
Mr. Medrano is also the executive producer, writer and host of a forthcoming bilingual documentary, “The Roots of Texas Mexican Food,” slated for release this fall. (He is pitching it to TV providers in the United States and Latin America.) The film focuses on Texas’ archaeological and historical sites, and on the women who have been the primary architects of the cuisine.
His work has been revelatory for restaurateurs like Sylvia Casares, a well-known Houston chef who operates Sylvia’s Enchilada Kitchen. “I had been searching for 20 years for how to describe my food,” said Ms. Casares, who is originally from Brownsville, at the state’s southeastern edge.
Ms. Casares met Mr. Medrano after he recommended her restaurant to a Houston reporter as a place to taste hallmarks of the cuisine, especially her enchiladas. Her crew makes hundreds a day the Texas Mexican way, each tortilla bathed in chile sauce and softened in hot oil before being rolled around its filling.
And what about the blanket of cheese on top? “There’s a little on there for looks,” Ms. Casares said.
Ms. Casares said Mr. Medrano’s work corrects both a lack of vocabulary and a lack of knowledge about history, even for some Mexican-Americans. “The problem with most people is they can’t get their heads around Texas’ indigenous foods,” she said.
Like many Mexican-American restaurateurs, she puts both Tex-Mex and Texas Mexican items on her menu. (Some dishes can overlap, or fall somewhere in between.) Most of her customers assume those that appear more traditionally Mexican were imported.
Yet these are not “south-of-the-border” creations, said Mr. Medrano: “Texas Mexican didn’t cross the border, the border crossed it.”
Until the Mexican-American War ended in 1848, much of southern Texas was Mexico, and for centuries before that part of the Viceroyalty of New Spain. That’s why, to Mr. Medrano, the heart of Texas Mexican culture is an area that includes southern Texas — the Rio Grande Valley, Corpus Christi and greater San Antonio and Houston — but also part of the northern Mexican states of Chihuahua, Coahuila, Nuevo León and Tamaulipas.
Those lie on the other side of the Rio Grande, but they share the same terroir, which includes mesquite and pecan trees; thickets of yucca and prickly pear cactus; staples like squash, beans, potatoes, chiles and corn; and seafood from the river and the Gulf of Mexico. It’s a subtropical zone that also supported thousands of head of cattle that followed the arrival of the Spanish in the 16th century.
In his research, Mr. Medrano was elated to find scholars who had occasionally used the term Texas Mexican, or had interviewed others who did. One of those was Mario Montaño, an anthropologist at Colorado College in Colorado Springs, whose focus is on food near the border. (His thesis was on barbacoa de cabeza, a cow’s head traditionally slow-cooked in a pit with hot stones, which Mr. Medrano’s family recently prepared on camera for his documentary.)
When Mr. Montaño grew up along the river in Eagle Pass, Tex., the water “was not a cultural separation,” he said.
Mr. Montaño describes this area’s cooking as influenced by centuries of mixing influences from trade, colonization and migration from Europe, the Middle East and Africa, as well as by Mexicans living in southern regions moving north.
Yet Texas Mexican food is rooted in the cooking of the nomadic Indigenous groups that moved around both sides of the river for centuries before the Spanish arrived. Many of those peoples — who are now collectively known as Tap Pilam Coahuiltecan Nation — moved into the Roman Catholic missions founded in San Antonio in the 1700s.
“What was here has given birth” to what Texans eat today, said Mr. Vasquez, noting that his ancestors were the ones doing the first hot-stone-and-pit cooking, often with unwanted cuts of meat like the cow heads left to them by Spanish.
The park has just converted 50 acres to farmland, which Mr. Vasquez hopes to help plant with native species, many of which are highlighted in Mr. Medrano’s new book. (It also includes a recipe from Mr. Vasquez’s mother for bison with blackberries and pecans, along with family recipes from the Texas artist César Martínez and the El Paso-born chef Rico Torres, of the modern Mexican restaurant Mixtli in San Antonio.)
This rich and living history is the reason San Antonio was awarded the rare City of Gastronomy designation in 2017 by Unesco. The city tapped Mr. Medrano to help create its application.
The recognition is a remarkable turnabout. The missions, after all, are only a few miles south of the plaza where Texas Mexican women were blocked from selling carne con chile from open-air stands in the early 20th century, while the dish itself was co-opted into chili. This is also where Otis Farnsworth, a Chicago transplant, opened his highly successful Original Mexican Restaurant, one of the first places serving what would become known as Tex-Mex.
Today, Farnsworth’s restaurant might be called out for cultural appropriation, or what Mr. Medrano calls “cultural poaching.” And Mr. Medrano does get angry at the lack of respect for his culture, the many ways in which Mexican-Americans have been wronged throughout history.
But he is generally driven by love for their cuisine, which delights him every time he sees a tortilla puff on a griddle, or catches the mingled scent of black pepper and cumin.
“We need to share the beauty of the food,” Mr. Medrano said, “and if we do, the world will be more beautiful.”
#tourism and travel news#traffic news cincinnati#traffic news colorado springs#travel news a12#travel news a30#travel news kings lynn#travel news m6#travel news rossendale#travelblog#zermatt travel news
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Dana’s Travel Diary: Paradise, No Passport Required
I’ve known my friend Krystal since we were seven years old in the second grade. I’m not sure if our friendship was initially based on anything deep (we both liked ‘The Simpsons’ and ‘Arthur’), but over the years, we’ve grown together. We have a truly similar sense of humor and decades’ worth of inside jokes. This February, she turned 28, and for her first official “Ladies’ Birthday Trip,” we (along with our other BFF/my roommate, Kiara) went to Puerto Rico. We would be flying into San Juan, staying in Carolina, and exploring several other areas mostly along the northern coast of the island.
The three of us had been to Miami for Kiara’s 25th and Los Angeles for my 26th. We’d also traveled to Denver and New Orleans together last year (plus our friend/neighbor Traci), so we were all confident that we wouldn’t annoy each other too badly over the course of four days with limited personal space.
We flew to San Juan by way of Chicago (a cold and stupid route, but the cheapest) and arrived at 5 A.M. At this point, I realized I made the rental car reservation for 10 A.M., but we headed to the rental place anyway. They were able to accommodate us early, but the price we paid was steep. We had to drive a huge Dodge Ram pickup truck. Correction: I had to drive a huge Dodge Ram pickup truck. It also had a big ass “Allied Car & Truck Rental” sign on the side. Thanks, Misael!
We found the condo we stayed at through AirBnb. Much to our grin-less chagrin, there was a union workers’ protest directly in front of the building next door, so every morning brought honking horns and Spanish chants that rhymed “luchar” and “lugar.” (Note: we learned that they’d been there all week, and they were also there during our entire stay.)
Our first excursion was to El Yunque Rainforest, where the truck came in handy. The many potholes on the winding mountain roads that led up to the rainforest were no match for our chubby Caucasian truck. We saw a few small waterfalls, one of which we got close to by climbing over rocks in an area clearly marked by a sign reading “DO NOT CLIMB THE ROCKS.”
There were many marked areas at which we were able to park and gaze. The views were spectacular from our height.
On the second day, we drove about an hour east to Luquillo Beach. The sand was like tan powdered sugar, and the water was calm and blue. This was genuinely the nicest beach I’d ever been to. The water was crisp, cool, and toted absolutely zero weird debris. I’m not used to nice things, so I definitely expected a jellyfish, some seaweed, at least a beer can or a condom wrapper. There were none to be found. Just beautiful palm trees, pleasant waves, and cute kids. Luquillo Beach also has a stand that serves pina coladas, rum punch, beers, and empanadas. We went all in (which later came all out, of me, into a hole I dug in the sand). Cheers to discrete public vomits!
On the way back from the beach, Krystal drove. She misinterpreted a road sign in Spanish, and thought the speed limit was 65 mph, with a minimum of 55 mph. We found out after getting pulled over and ticketed that the speed limit was ordinarily 65, but 55 for heavy vehicles, i.e. our big body Ram.
The next day, we went to Old San Juan. We’d read that parking was difficult in this area, and that turned out to be correct. Street parking is virtually nonexistent. The roads are narrow and cobbled, and it looks like a place where once you find a street spot, you never, ever move. We ended up parking in a lot with a 7-foot height clearance, which barely missed fucking up the top of our truck.
Old San Juan was gorgeous, full of colorful buildings and historical sites. We visited El Morro, a 400-year-old fort by the water. We also saw the Santa María Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery, which is apparently the final resting place for a number of Puerto Rico’s most prominent residents and natives.
From Old San Juan, we headed west to Arecibo to visit Cueva Ventana, a large cave atop a limestone cliff that is a popular tourist attraction for both Puerto Rican natives and visitors. Tours are all guided, and our tour group appeared to be mostly Puerto Ricans. We were the only non-Spanish speakers, which required our guide to explain everything twice. Oops.
The guide explained that the caves were full of wonder, in the form of cockroaches, bats, spiders and snakes. We entered with hard hats and flashlights, and were instructed not to shine our lights at the ceiling of the cave, where bats slept in clusters. The guide shone an undisturbing red light up to illuminate the bat clusters. They were far less appetizing than pecan clusters, as far as clusters go.
When we finally reached the famous window cave, we took turns taking photos. I asked the guide if anyone had ever fallen out of the cave, and he said no, but let me know that if I wasn’t careful, that day could be the first.
On our last day in Puerto Rico, we spent the morning at Isla Verde Beach, which was not as nice as Luquillo but walking distance from our condo. It began to rain after about an hour, so we packed up and headed to San Juan’s botanical garden. This was a pleasant, peaceful conclusion to our time in Puerto Rico. The highlight of this excursion was definitely the peacock we saw, but the sad part was that it was caged.
The weather in Puerto Rico was similar to Miami - rain storms that hit hard but last just a few minutes. The weather sat around 85 degrees every day, and I returned browner than before, for sure.
If you are planning a trip to Puerto Rico (from the U.S.), remember: no need for a passport! Here are a few tips that might come in handy!
1: Learn basic Spanish - This would’ve saved us some heartache when interpreting road signs. Between Krystal being half Panamanian and me taking 3+ years of Spanish in school, we managed alright. But I did witness a few instances of “stupid Americans” being totally lost in the sauce when asked a simple question in Spanish (”What time is your reservation?”).
2: Go off the beaten path to save money - Compared to the trip I took to Mexico, all prices in Puerto Rico seemed pretty much comparable to prices at home, i.e. NOT cheap. The farther we got from the capital, the better the prices seemed to get for basic things like food and water.
3: Try food native to Puerto Rico - My favorite dish was seafood mofongos, which is mashed plantains with garlic and butter, served with shrimp, scallops and octopus.
4: Be prepared to pay tolls - They’re pretty much on every highway to every city in Puerto Rico. Our rental car was equipped with an E-Z pass, which you will definitely need if you plan to drive ANYWHERE.
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REALLY LONG CHARACTER SURVEY.
RULES. Repost, do not reblog ! Tag 10 ! Good luck ! Tagged by: my dash Tagging: fuck off
BASICS. FULL NAME : R.chard G.cko. NICKNAME/S : R.ch, R.ch.e, R.ch.e R.ch, R.cardo, R.chardo, Four-eyes, Specs, Glasses, etc. AGE : 29 years young. BIRTHDAY : 11 | 03 | 87. ETHNIC GROUP : Caucasian/ White. NATIONALITY : American. LANGUAGE/S : Fluent english and ancient Xibalban dialect. SEXUAL ORIENTATION : Heterosexual. ROMANTIC ORIENTATION : Gray-Heteromantic. RELATIONSHIP STATUS : Single. CLASS : Upper Class. HOME TOWN / AREA : Kansas City, Kansas, U.S.A. CURRENT HOME : Classified. PROFESSION : Co-runs a truck stop. Mid-boss, Lord of Collecting Tribute. Due to the sensitive nature & illegality of undisclosed vocations, he’ll exclusively state he operates a roadside service station without divulging its locale.
PHYSICAL. HAIR : Thick, dark, and sable hair; frontal crest ( located on the crown part of his head ) is just a tad bit longer than the rest. EYES : Ice cold eyes that seemingly burn holes into whatever they’re affixed to. NOSE : Greek nose, straight as shit. FACE : Oblong broad with a strong af jaw. LIPS : Thin and parched, almost always in the shape and form of a line. COMPLEXION : Pale. No different than he was before, truth be told. BLEMISHES : None. SCARS : He had a shit ton of scars on his legs and arms as a sprout but they’re gone af now. TATTOOS : He doesn’t go for that shit, no. HEIGHT : 193 cm . WEIGHT : 112.4 kg . BUILD : Beetroot. Wide shoulders, large chest, a tad bit of tummy ( just a tad ) with narrow-ish hips and legs. FEATURES : Dedicated, ambitious, Intelligent, ambitious, perceptive, ambitious, reserved, ambitious. ALLERGIES : He had a peanut allergy before but he doesn’t anymore. USUAL HAIR STYLE : Depends. Usually well-kept but the fringe gets in his face if not kept tame by pushing back with gel. USUAL FACE LOOK : Indifferent. There is seldom any trace of varying emotions on his face; he hides them well. No way of knowing whether he wants to kiss you on the lips or bite you on the face, proceed with caution lol. USUAL CLOTHING : Black blazer, white button collared shirt, black slacks, ties ( again, black. ), and metal capped oxford shoes.
PSYCHOLOGY. FEAR/S : Powerlessness, loss of control ( lol ), failure. ASPIRATION/S : To get out of that bank robbin’ ditch, d UH. Wants to get out of being considered second best, tbh. POSITIVE TRAITS : Intelligent, Rational, Idealistic, Patient, Organized, Observant, Profound. NEGATIVE TRAITS : Nitpicker, Greedy, Selfish, Dishonest, Secretive, Manipulative, Vengeful. MBTI : (INTJ) The Architect. ZODIAC : Pisces. TEMPERAMENT : Choleric SOUL TYPE / S : Thinker. ANIMALS : Tiger ( outlined here ) VICE HABIT/S : Cigarettes, binge eating, and finding faults in people. FAITH : Agnostic, raised Roman Catholic. GHOSTS ? : Doesn’t give a shit. AFTERLIFE ? : Nay. REINCARNATION ? : On the fence. ALIENS ? : Doesn’t give a shit. POLITICAL ALIGNMENT : Left. ECONOMIC PREFERENCE : Indifferent. SOCIOPOLITICAL POSITION : Depends. EDUCATION LEVEL : High School graduate, some university.
FAMILY. FATHER : Ray G.cko ( deceased ) MOTHER : ew. SIBLINGS : S.th G.cko ( older brother by one year ) EXTENDED FAMILY : Eddie Cruickshank ( Adoptive uncle; Good friend of Papa G.cko back in the day.) NAME MEANING/S : The Germanic first or given name R.chard derives from German, French, and English “r.c” (ruler, leader, king) and “hard” (strong, brave), and it therefore means “powerful leader” while a g.cko is a lizard from what i’ve read. HISTORICAL CONNECTION ? : To be determined.
FAVOURITES. BOOK : Anything from cultural studies to true crime. He doesn’t really do favorite certains in this department. MOVIE : The Wild Bunch, María Candelaria, Creature from the Black Lagoon, Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, The Godfather, Network, Dracula, High Noon, Stagecoach, Salon Mexico, Scarface, The Rico Brothers, etc. 5 SONGS : Famasloop — Choro Dance, Tito & Tarantula — after dark ( spanish version ), Federale — The Blood Flowed like Wine, Blues Saraceno — Criminal, Bauhaus — Dark Entries. DEITY : Hephaestus, Blacksmith of the Gods, Lord of the fire, forge and volcanoes. And even though he’s got the vast tendency to be underestimated by most, he is brilliant and ingenuous being known for his gruff and calculated exterior who, more often times than not, has built his way out of trouble without any guidance of the sort. MONTH : March. SEASON : Autumn. PLACE : Texas for now. WEATHER : Scorching desert hot. SOUND : Guns firing, static on the phone and/or television, tires screeching on the road, hissing in the distance. SCENT/S : Cigarette smoke, gunpowder, new car. TASTE/S : Fresh blood on your tongue, the upshot of smoking one too many cigars, and all american provisions, bruh. FEEL/S : Snake scales, that chill running down your spine as someone’s watching from afar, and a punch in your gut. ANIMAL/S : Lizards, snakes. NUMBER : 2. COLOUR : Black, White, Red.
EXTRA. TALENTS : Picking locks, planning jobs, fixing cars. Referencing shit. Getting on people’s nerves, his brother’s especially and overthinking. BAD AT : Keeping stable relationships with other people. Shit’s been hitting the fan real fucking fast, not even gonna lie lmao. TURN ONS : Women’s legs and feet may or may not be at the top. TURN OFFS : Where do I start, lmao . He’s what I personally like to call the protoype of shallow as fuck. HOBBIES : He likes to draw. Binge watch movies and cartoons, throwin’ knives, fixing stuff. TROPES : Asshole with a heart of gold according to the show ( it’s a load of fucking bull ), Heartbreaking, tear jerking childhood with a boozehound dad and no mom. Smart nerd glasses wearin’ guy does all the work but doesn’t nearly get as much credit as he deserves according to the show squared. AESTHETIC TAGS : Cigarettes, desolate roads, moonless skies, static, the faint sound of the tv going on all throughout the night, ashes and smoke, tumbleweeds, fast food, roadhouses, motels, hard liquor, firearms, vaults, gloves, video tapes, skin magazines, snakes, cactus, broken vinyl records, music cassettes, true crime news headlines and/or articles, money, blood, classic cars, eyes, fangs, eye glasses, hands, beer posters, crime scenes, tire marks on the road, ashes.
FC INFO. MAIN FC/S : Z.ne H.ltz ALT FC/S : B.ll Hader and Quentit Tangerino. OLDER FC/S : None YOUNGER FC/S : L. B.n.t VOICE CLAIM/S : Z.ne H.ltz GENDERBENT FC/S : No.
#RAP SHEET. ❜ ʷʰᵃᵗ ᵃ ᶜʳᵒᶜᵏ. ⎭#long post cw#TOP DOG. ❜ ⁿᵒ ᵐᵒʳᵉ ˢᵒʳʳᵒʷᶠᵘˡ ʲᵒⁿᵉˢ . ⎭#sensoring the fuck out of his name#don't want this shit anywhere near the f.ndom tags you tykes know why#👀👀👀#well#some of you lmao let’s keep that underwraps#stems of season ew#i mean two#II. ❜ ᵒⁿᵉ ᵏⁱⁿᵍ ᵗᵒ ʷᵃᵗᶜʰ ᵗʰᵉ ʰᵒʳˢᵉᵐᵉⁿ ᶠᵃˡˡ. ⎭
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Famed for its artistic traditions in weaving, pottery and painted wooden animal carvings known as alebrijes, the Mexican city of Oaxaca is also brimming with contemporary art. Museums and galleries dot the central area, particularly north of the Zocalo, the central plaza, but Oaxaca also has a thriving street art scene.
On a recent trip, my family and I explored by bicycle the bounty of artwork painted, stenciled, pasted and sprayed onto the city’s walls. We booked a half-day tour with Coyote Aventuras, and our guide Diana Shai led us through the city’s narrow, crowded streets, on a four-hour exploration of the city’s street art. The varied artwork generally fell into three categories: woodcut posters with political images, day of the dead murals, and artists’ large signature pieces.
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Indigenous Political Protest
Oaxaca, which sits in the foothills of the Sierra Madres in Southeastern Mexico, was named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and is known for its Colonial architecture and strong indigenous roots. The Zapotec and Mixtec, who lived in the area for thousands of years before the first Spanish arrived in 1521, continue to exert a significant influence culturally.
On a recent warm Monday morning, we met our guide Shai and collected our rented bicycles near the Plaza Santa Domingo, a hub of woodblock and printmaking activity. We stopped first to examine a group of political posters wheat pasted onto a nondescript wall, many signed by The Revolutionary Union of Art Workers (URTARTE), one of the many art collectives in the city that makes eye-catching political art.
Journalists at Risk
The first poster depicted one of Mexico’s first female journalists, Leona Vicario, who fought for independence and was heralded as “mother” of the country. The black and white image is comprised of detailed woodcuts using intricate shading to produce a striking image of an upright woman, holding a puppet meant to represent a priest. Beneath Vicario, a bent-over politician licks the words spilling from her typewriter. Though Vicario died in 1842, she’s addressing a more modern problem in this depiction, as is evidenced by the words “pedophilia,” spiraling out from her typewriter.
Further down the wall was another woodcut poster, similar in style, commemorating a modern journalist, Maria del Sol Cruz Jarquín, an Oaxacan who was killed last June while covering an election campaign. “Mexico is a dangerous place to be a journalist,” explained Shai.
The Committee to Protect Journalists backs up those allegations with facts. “Mexico is the deadliest country for journalists in the Western hemisphere,” according to CPJ research. In 2018, “at least four were murdered in the country in direct retaliation for their work.”
Commemorating Murdered Protestors
The next poster we examined, also on the same wall, was of a young woman holding an enormous heart with the number 43 at the top. Made in a similar style as the others, a detailed black-and-white woodcut, Shai told us the number represents the 2014 disappearance (and presumed death) of 43 students in the southern state of Guerrero who were headed to a demonstration commemorating a 1968 massacre of protestors. An official investigation claimed the local police gave the students to a drug cartel, who in turn, killed them. Most people do not believe this explanation and President Andrés Manuel López Obrador, who assumed office in 2018, has ordered a new investigation.
Heart 43 Students photo taken by Eliza Amon.
Another striking poster, dense with symbolism of corruption by politicians and the church, caught my eye. “Without corn, there is no country,” was the translation of one phrase embedded in the intertwined skulls and devils. Shai told us the poster is addressing the passage of NAFTA, which harmed corn production in Mexico. Farmers could not compete with U.S. prices and many local, small farms went out of business as Mexico began importing substantial amounts of corn from the U.S. At the center of the poster was a rat, symbolizing the (former) president and a dinosaur, indicating the “old” regime.
“Graphic arts are a weapon to tell people about the real version of the news,” Shai said. And indeed, with her help, we learned a tremendous amount about the politics and violence of the area and the local resistance to corruption organized by artists.
Day of the Dead
After Shai’s detailed explanations about the symbolism and the meaning of the posters around Plaza Santa Domingo, we bicycled five minutes Northeast to the Barrio de Jalatlaco, a quiet, historic neighborhood, to look at a different type of street art. Shai told us the neighborhood had strong traditions around Day of the Dead, which was evident from the many murals painted on businesses and houses.
Day of the Dead, or Día de los Muertos, is a Mexican holiday honoring memories of the departed, who are believed to awake and celebrate with the living on November first and second.
The Temple de San Matias Jalatlaco, a 17th-century church, anchors the neighborhood and the plaza serves as a gathering spot for the festivities. Across the cobblestone street is one of the most striking murals in the neighborhood, spread across two walls of the corner building. Skeletons are drinking, chatting with each other, and one athletically inclined skeleton does a split near the roof.
Around the neighborhood, other houses hosted ‘Calavera’ murals joyfully depicting skeletons engaged in all kinds of activities— listening to an MP3 player, climbing a tree, and pulling carts to name a few. Some referenced the household altars people create every year on Day of the Dead for their deceased family members, which usually include flowers and food.
One of my favorites depicted several women skeletons with long black braids, cheerfully drinking with their arms slung around each other. Shai told us that it commemorated a special parade for women that takes place nearby during Day of the Dead.
Womens Parade photo taken by Eliza Amon.
Other Murals
With Shai in the lead, we quickly found our way to a mural commemorating María Sabina, a traditional healer, who used psychedelic mushrooms in her ceremonies. Sabina originally opened her ceremonies to Westerners, including allegedly celebrities like the Beatles and Bob Dylan, but the involvement of Westerners ultimately corrupted the traditional ceremonies.
Sabina, painted with a black dog above her head, believed plants had personalities and expressed emotions, Shai explained as she pointed to the plants depicted to her left that are meant to express seriousness, anger, and creativity in the heads that top their abstract bodies.
Tucked in an alleyway nearby we discovered another large mural, notable for the image of a spaceman floating above the desert as he pulls his heart from a square hole in his spacesuit. A statement about technology and nature, the graffiti-style mural speaks loudly with brilliant colors and larger than life, juxtaposing imagery.
When we asked Shai about the greater meaning or symbolism for the spaceman, she shrugged. Artists paint what inspires them and that can range from specific political messages to broader themes or commemorations that are more personal to them. With Shai’s help, we were able to decode and contextualize Oaxaca’s street art, which enriched our understanding of the city and the experiences of its people.
Spaceman photo taken by Eliza Amon
Rats and Astronauts: Street Art in Oaxaca Famed for its artistic traditions in weaving, pottery and painted wooden animal carvings known as alebrijes, the Mexican city of Oaxaca is also brimming with contemporary art.
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Don’t Call It Tex-Mex – The New York Times
HOUSTON — This city’s Second Ward is full of temptations for Adán Medrano, a writer and chef who lives just a few miles southeast.
The Mexican-American neighborhood is home to the perfect flaky tortillas at Doña María Mexican Cafe, scratch-made in flour or corn, and ready to be folded around eggs with the fine threads of dried beef called machacado. It has the off-menu roasted tamales at the Original Alamo Tamales, with blackened husks and caramelized edges of masa and meat. And there’s Taqueria Chabelita, where the owner, Isabel Henriquez Hernandez, makes pinto beans whose smoky intensity comes not from pork fat, but from a slow char in a hot pan.
For Mr. Medrano, who grew up in San Antonio with generations of relatives on both sides of the Rio Grande, this is all his comfort food, his culinary heritage, his comida casera, or Mexican home cooking.
Just don’t call it Tex-Mex, he said. He prefers to describe it as Texas Mexican, which is also how he describes himself.
Texas Mexican is the indigenous cooking of South Texas, according to Mr. Medrano, 71, whose second cookbook, “Don’t Count the Tortillas: The Art of Texas Mexican Cooking,” will be published in June by Texas Tech University Press. It’s the food that’s been made by families like his on this land since before the Rio Grande marked a border, when Texas was a part of Mexico, and long before then.
Don’t get him wrong: Tex-Mex is a cuisine that should be respected and celebrated, he said. It’s just that Tex-Mex standards like queso and combo fajitas piled high with chicken and shrimp don’t speak of home to those whose Texas roots go back some 12,000 years.
“That’s not our food,” said Mr. Medrano, who has spent the better part of a decade defining his cuisine, inspiring a growing number of Texas Mexicans in the process. “We don’t eat like that.”
You can find Texas Mexican here at Mr. Medrano’s Houston go-tos, and at decades-old San Antonio West Side lunch spots like Old Danny’s Cocina, or even newer favorites like El Puesto No. 2 down the street. It’s at Maria’s Restaurant in downtown McAllen and at Cafe Amiga in Brownsville, both run by granddaughters of their founders.
It is dishes like chicken poached with striped green squash and corn, the tomato-noodle soup called fideo, and gulf shrimp and cactus stewed in a mix of dried red chiles. It’s the simple ground beef picadillo or the beef-and-potato stew called carne guisada, both subtly seasoned with a pounded paste of black peppercorn, garlic and cumin, which Mr. Medrano describes as the Texas Mexican version of the Cajun holy trinity.
It is what Juan Hernandez, of Doña María Mexican Cafe, has always described as “mama-style cooking”— the mama in this case being his wife, Anna Hernandez, who grew up a block away from the restaurant and is a co-owner. Mr. Hernandez would never call the food she makes Tex-Mex; in fact, it inspired Tex-Mex.
That began in the early 1900s, when local Mexican-American home cooking was first adapted in restaurants run “by Anglos for Anglos,” Mr. Medrano said. In the 1970s, writers started referring to that hybridized cuisine as Tex-Mex: refried beans as smooth as pancake batter; chili made with powdered spices and stock, instead of the carne con chiles based on whole dried red chiles; fajitas with anything other than the skirt steak that gave the dish its name; and extra cheese on everything.
The idea of distinguishing Texas Mexican from Tex-Mex came to him after he enrolled in the Culinary Institute of America program in San Antonio in 2010, after careers in producing and writing for television, and awarding foundation grants to nonprofit arts and education projects. Mr. Medrano, who also founded San Antonio’s annual Latino film festival in 1977, originally took the classes for fun, he said, but they led him to an epiphany: After decades in the shadows, his food needed not just a champion, but a name.
Mr. Medrano didn’t want to use the word Tejano, because it is sometimes used to highlight Spanish colonial ancestry rather than native heritage, and because spelling Texas with a J instead of an X is a European practice.
He came up with a better term after learning about the distinct regional cuisines of Mexico, realizing that he had essentially grown up with one of his own. “You have Oaxacan Mexican, you have Jaliscan Mexican,” Mr. Medrano said. “Why not Texas Mexican?”
His initial research on the history of this food became his first cookbook, “Truly Texas Mexican: A Native Culinary Heritage in Recipes,” published in 2014.
Since then, Mr. Medrano has traveled the region, cooking, lecturing at schools and museums, and gathering knowledge from chefs, anthropologists and home cooks, many of whom are quoted in “Don’t Count the Tortillas.” (This summer he will even make carne guisada tacos at a Fourth of July celebration in Moscow, at the residence of the United States ambassador to Russia.)
Mr. Medrano is also the executive producer, writer and host of a forthcoming bilingual documentary, “The Roots of Texas Mexican Food,” slated for release this fall. (He is pitching it to TV providers in the United States and Latin America.) The film focuses on Texas’ archaeological and historical sites, and on the women who have been the primary architects of the cuisine.
His work has been revelatory for restaurateurs like Sylvia Casares, a well-known Houston chef who operates Sylvia’s Enchilada Kitchen. “I had been searching for 20 years for how to describe my food,” said Ms. Casares, who is originally from Brownsville, at the state’s southeastern edge.
Ms. Casares met Mr. Medrano after he recommended her restaurant to a Houston reporter as a place to taste hallmarks of the cuisine, especially her enchiladas. Her crew makes hundreds a day the Texas Mexican way, each tortilla bathed in chile sauce and softened in hot oil before being rolled around its filling.
And what about the blanket of cheese on top? “There’s a little on there for looks,” Ms. Casares said.
Ms. Casares said Mr. Medrano’s work corrects both a lack of vocabulary and a lack of knowledge about history, even for some Mexican-Americans. “The problem with most people is they can’t get their heads around Texas’ indigenous foods,” she said.
Like many Mexican-American restaurateurs, she puts both Tex-Mex and Texas Mexican items on her menu. (Some dishes can overlap, or fall somewhere in between.) Most of her customers assume those that appear more traditionally Mexican were imported.
Yet these are not “south-of-the-border” creations, said Mr. Medrano: “Texas Mexican didn’t cross the border, the border crossed it.”
Until the Mexican-American War ended in 1848, much of southern Texas was Mexico, and for centuries before that part of the Viceroyalty of New Spain. That’s why, to Mr. Medrano, the heart of Texas Mexican culture is an area that includes southern Texas — the Rio Grande Valley, Corpus Christi and greater San Antonio and Houston — but also part of the northern Mexican states of Chihuahua, Coahuila, Nuevo León and Tamaulipas.
Those lie on the other side of the Rio Grande, but they share the same terroir, which includes mesquite and pecan trees; thickets of yucca and prickly pear cactus; staples like squash, beans, potatoes, chiles and corn; and seafood from the river and the Gulf of Mexico. It’s a subtropical zone that also supported thousands of head of cattle that followed the arrival of the Spanish in the 16th century.
In his research, Mr. Medrano was elated to find scholars who had occasionally used the term Texas Mexican, or had interviewed others who did. One of those was Mario Montaño, an anthropologist at Colorado College in Colorado Springs, whose focus is on food near the border. (His thesis was on barbacoa de cabeza, a cow’s head traditionally slow-cooked in a pit with hot stones, which Mr. Medrano’s family recently prepared on camera for his documentary.)
When Mr. Montaño grew up along the river in Eagle Pass, Tex., the water “was not a cultural separation,” he said.
Mr. Montaño describes this area’s cooking as influenced by centuries of mixing influences from trade, colonization and migration from Europe, the Middle East and Africa, as well as by Mexicans living in southern regions moving north.
Yet Texas Mexican food is rooted in the cooking of the nomadic Indigenous groups that moved around both sides of the river for centuries before the Spanish arrived. Many of those peoples — who are now collectively known as Tap Pilam Coahuiltecan Nation — moved into the Roman Catholic missions founded in San Antonio in the 1700s.
“What was here has given birth” to what Texans eat today, said Mr. Vasquez, noting that his ancestors were the ones doing the first hot-stone-and-pit cooking, often with unwanted cuts of meat like the cow heads left to them by Spanish.
The park has just converted 50 acres to farmland, which Mr. Vasquez hopes to help plant with native species, many of which are highlighted in Mr. Medrano’s new book. (It also includes a recipe from Mr. Vasquez’s mother for bison with blackberries and pecans, along with family recipes from the Texas artist César Martínez and the El Paso-born chef Rico Torres, of the modern Mexican restaurant Mixtli in San Antonio.)
This rich and living history is the reason San Antonio was awarded the rare City of Gastronomy designation in 2017 by Unesco. The city tapped Mr. Medrano to help create its application.
The recognition is a remarkable turnabout. The missions, after all, are only a few miles south of the plaza where Texas Mexican women were blocked from selling carne con chile from open-air stands in the early 20th century, while the dish itself was co-opted into chili. This is also where Otis Farnsworth, a Chicago transplant, opened his highly successful Original Mexican Restaurant, one of the first places serving what would become known as Tex-Mex.
Today, Farnsworth’s restaurant might be called out for cultural appropriation, or what Mr. Medrano calls “cultural poaching.” And Mr. Medrano does get angry at the lack of respect for his culture, the many ways in which Mexican-Americans have been wronged throughout history.
But he is generally driven by love for their cuisine, which delights him every time he sees a tortilla puff on a griddle, or catches the mingled scent of black pepper and cumin.
“We need to share the beauty of the food,” Mr. Medrano said, “and if we do, the world will be more beautiful.”
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Best Of Havana: What To Do In Cuba’s Capital City
Best Things to do in Havana, Cuba
Havana, Cuba
The vibrant capital city of Havana, Cuba has long been inaccessible to American travelers, but thankfully this is no longer the case. Here are some of my favorite things to do in the City of Columns!
In recent years, Cuba has seen major changes and opened its doors to visitors. More and more American’s are now visiting Cuba than ever before, and tourism has been on the rise — for good reason!
Only an hour away from Miami by plane, Havana is a majestic blend of old and new, vintage cars and colorful, often crumbling infrastructure; its energy pulses with a vibrant mix of Spanish colonial architecture, booming nightlife and kitschy art galleries.
For a small city, Havana seems to have an endless list of things to do catering to every kind of traveler. Maybe you’re a cigar aficionado or simply looking for some R&R, Havana has something to offer everyone.
Best Things To Do In Havana
After spending some time in the capital city during my road trip around Cuba, I wanted to put together a comprehensive travel guide to Havana that would help you plan your own journey.
This is part of what makes Havana unique and what captivated me in particular — the sense that there is always something more to uncover around every corner.
Whether it’s a sultry salsa performance or hidden bar tucked away behind the narrow streets of a colorful neighborhood — you’ll never get bored of things to do!
Visit El Morro Castle
Cuba’s Pirate Protection
El Morro Castle, otherwise known as “Castillo del Morro”, is a great starting point once you arrive in Havana. It’s situated on top of a rocky promontory at the entrance of Havana’s bay—it can’t be missed! It’s a massive fort with an equally impressive history.
The castle was built starting in 1590 to protect Havana against military attacks, and also served as a watch post to keep an eye out for enemies (like pirates!). It is composed of 3 bastions linked by curtain walls, casemented barracks and also houses cisterns, a chapel, officer’s quarters, a wine cellar, stables, and dungeons.
Today, Morro Castle is used as a museum and can be visited for a small fee. Its fantastic views make it a great first stop, a short taxi ride from the city center.
Explore Old Havana On Foot
Local Neighborhoods in Havana Vieja
As both the city center and the municipality with the second highest population density in Havana, Havana Vieja is quite possibly the most beautiful area of the city and a must-see if you’re visiting. Many buildings have fallen into ruin, but many starting to get restored.
The area is a colorful labyrinth of narrow streets, lively local neighborhoods, courtyards, forts, monuments, and churches that make up the pulsating heart of Havana. While you should definitely enjoy yourself strolling around the old city, just beware of jineteros, local hustlers trying to make a buck off you.
Tropicana Nightclub Show
Havana’s Most Famous Nightlife
Known as one of the hottest cabaret shows in the world, the Tropicana Nightclub Show is a world-famous spectacle set in a lush, tropical open-air venue that bursts with colorful lights, glitter, and glam. Salsa-charged and sensual, it’s a must-do activity during any trip to Havana Cuba.
Performers’ gaudy, feathered costumes are spectacles in and of themselves, but it’s the show as a whole that leaves you floored. Tickets are a bit pricey -— roughly $85 USD per person -— but include a welcome drink and cigar. We had a great night there!
Tour Havana By Classic Car
Tour Havana by Classic Car
When you think of things to do in Havana, chances are rolling down the street in a colorful, vintage convertible with the top down is a top contender. There are plenty of options for vintage car tours in Havana, and most operate like a regular taxi.
For pre-planned tours, there is usually a flat-fee (about 40 – 50 CUC per hour) that the driver communicates up front. But if you’re feeling spontaneous, you can easily hail a vintage car to go anywhere in the city. Make sure to stop in some photogenic locations to get those Instagram photos!
Stroll Along “El Malecon” Boardwalk
Stroll Along the Seaside on El Malecon
If you want an intimate glimpse at life in Havana, walk El Malecon. Translated as “the pier”, El Malecon is a restored seafront walkway situated along the city’s north coastline and provides lovely views of Havana’s iconic architecture.
It’s also the unofficial symbol of the city, and often can be seen on postcards and in films. El Malecon is a destination in and of itself, so food and music is abundant all along the pier.
And if you visit during late July or early August, El Malecon comes alive with one of the biggest festivals in Cuba —- the Havana Carnival.
Enjoy Cuban Cigars At Hotel Nacional
Cigars & Rum at Havana’s Famous Hotel Nacional
Cuba has elevated cigar smoking to an art form. For that reason, you can pretty much find a good cigar anywhere in Havana—but if you’re looking for the best spot to light up and take in the classy, glamorous, atmosphere that this city evokes, look no further than Hotel Nacional.
Hotel Nacional is not only the most famous hotel in Havana -— it’s also home to one of the city’s best cigar shops called La Casa del Habano. Or you can enjoy your cigar in the hotel’s backyard and bar, relaxing amidst ocean views, palm trees, and even peacocks strolling by!
Visit Hemingway’s Watering Holes
Have a Drink at El Floridita Bar
Ernest Hemingway lived outside Havana for twenty years, and naturally got much of the inspiration for his novels from the city—more specifically, from its bars. El Floridita, Dos Hermanos and La Bodeguita del Medio were Hemingway’s favorite bars when he lived there, and today they can be visited just like any other bar.
Watch out though, as a few of them have turned into tourist traps. La Bodeguita was my favorite Hemingway-approved watering hole and still retains much of the subdued, authentic atmosphere you’d expect Hemingway probably loved. They have live salsa music, and also make a mean mojito, which never hurts.
Try A Cuban Pizza!
Typical Cuban Pizza in Havana
Sure, everyone knows they should eat a Cuban sandwich while in Cuba. But did you know these famous sandwiches were actually created in Florida? Instead, why not order a classic Cuban pizza while visiting Havana!
What makes Cuban pizza special is the “sofrito” — essentially a holy mix of onion, garlic, and bell pepper sautéed in olive oil with tomato and spices. In Havana, crappy pizza is everywhere, and the good stuff is a bit trickier to find.
For starters, I recommend heading to 5 Esquinas Trattoria on Cuarteles Avenue. Their pizza is baked in a wood oven, and the spot is a prime location for people-watching. Another tasty spot is Bella Ciao, which has a reputation for the freshest pizza (and pasta!) in Havana.
Hit The Beaches Nearby
Packed Weekend at Playa Santa Maria
Cuba’s proximity to the equator means that it’s always beach season in Havana. The island’s entire coastline is pretty much a white sand, turquoise-watered dream, so it’s hard to go wrong with picking a beach.
If you’re looking for a party atmosphere, head to Santa María del Mar, the biggest and most well-known beach in Havana. The downside to this one, though, is the crowds. But if you’re visiting in the autumn or winter you should be ok.
If you’re looking for a quieter beach day that isn’t as popular with tourists, try Playa Boca Ciega.
How About Some Rum In A Box?
Horrible Cheap Rum in a Box…
Wander the streets of Havana for a night on the town, and you’ll soon learn all about “rum in a box”. Known as the juice box for big kids, this rotgut rum is sold in individual packs. You’ll see locals partying with their box of Tumbao or Planchao.
It’s cheap as hell, pretty disgusting, and will leave you with a painful headache the next morning if you drink too much of it. But if you want to make some new friends, rip a fresh box open with your teeth and pass it around!
Visit The Capitol Building
Havana’s Capitol Building
El Capitolio, or Cuba’s Capitol Building, was built in 1929 and based off of the US Capitol in Washington DC. It has been closed to the public for the last 8 years for a big restoration project — but just recently re-opened.
Previously used as the Ministry of Science & Technology, the newly renovated structure is now the seat of Cuba’s national assembly, where they selected a new president last April. Visitors can tour the Capitol in groups of 15 from Tuesday to Sunday each week.
Dance To Some Cuban Music
Live Cuban Salsa Music
Salsa is everywhere in Havana—in bars, restaurants, even impromptu dances along sidewalks are a regular occurrence. We hit the bars & clubs a few different times to check out live music, one of my favorites was a bar called Kilometro Zero.
But if you want to take your salsa admiration one step further, sign up for a lesson. Casa del Son is Havana’s biggest and best dance school, offering locals and visitors classes in just about every type of traditional Cuban dance.
Watch Cannons Blast Off!
Fort San Carlos Cannon Ceremony
Ever since the 18th-century, a cannon has been fired in Havana every evening at 9pm at the Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabaña (Fort of St Charles). Back then, Havana was divided in two and Cuba’s Spanish rulers would fire the cannon to inform the Habaneros to take shelter against pirate attacks.
Today, the nightly event is still quite a spectacle, equipped with a drum roll and artillery cadets lining the fort dressed in colonial uniforms. The event is free, always on time, and onlookers are encouraged! This is one of the lesser-known things to do in Havana.
Stay Hydrated With Guarapo
Cuban Sugar Cane Juice
What is guarapo, you ask? It’s raw sugar cane juice that’s been extracted from palm-tree sap, and also the most delicious drink you can find in Cuba. The cheapest, too. It’s usually mixed with lime and ice and can be found pretty much in every bar, restaurant, or street side bodega.
You can also try it as an alcoholic beverage (usually mixed with rum). Guarapo is on of the best drinks to try in Havana, and a consistently fantastic spot to get your cane-juice drink on is Arsenal Street, right in front of the train station.
Viñales Tobacco Fields Road Trip
Visit the Tobacco Farms of Vinales
After a few days in Havana, no one would blame you for wanting to escape the city for a day to find something else to do, and the town of Viñales should fix you right up. It’s a small village tucked away in the middle of green fields, tobacco plantations and rock formations.
About a 2-3 hour drive from Havana, Viñales makes for a great day trip, although I do recommend spending at least one night there to get the full sense of the town.
There are buses leaving daily from Havana to Viñales, or you can rent a classic car like we did. Viñales is known for its tobacco farms and limestone hills. Horseback riding is a popular way to enjoy the lush scenery and country atmosphere.
Visit Cámera Obscura
View from the Gómez Vila Building
You can get a brilliant 360-degree panoramic view of Old Havana from the top floor of the Gómez Vila building in Plaza Vieja, the tallest building in Old Havana. It’s got the only “Camera Oscura” in all of Latin America and the Caribbean.
The camera projects real-time images of the city at 30X magnification through just a peephole onto a dark screen. Havana’s Cámera Obscura costs only 2 CUC to visit, and even the view from the roof is totally worth it.
Trip Out In Fusterlandia
Fusterlandia Art Installation
Cuba’s rich artistic tradition is alive and well in part thanks to artist Jose Fuster, who has built a mosaic tile wonderland called Fusterlandia in the fishing village of Jaimanitas, just 20 minutes outside of Havana.
Fusterlandia is unique in that it isn’t its own site-specific artwork, but rather crafted into the neighborhood. Residents have actually allowed Fuster to decorate their homes and turn them into colorful, eye-popping gems.
There is a gallery you can visit between 9:30am and 4:00pm, Wednesday to Sunday. If you don’t make it to the gallery, you can always just drive through the neighborhood to get a feel of things.
Eat At A Local Paladar
Where to Eat in Havana
If you only stick to government-run restaurants frequented by tourists, you’ll miss out on Cuba’s true flavor. So make sure to stop into a paladar (locally-run restaurant) for an authentic Cuban food experience.
Good Cuban food is a delicious fusion of African and Spanish food, and very much resembles a lot of the food you can find throughout the Caribbean — rich, dense, and heavy on the spices.
One great paladar I recommend is called San Cristóbal, located in the bottom floor of an early 20th-century mansion. Make sure you try the traditional ropa vieja. Shredded, stewed beef with vegetables!
Explore Havana’s Green Forest
Explore Havana’s Forest
El Bosque De La Habana (the Lungs of Havana) is a swamp-like forest home to the Almendares River and is a popular spot for locals to get away from the city center and breathe some fresh air. It’s a recreational area for Habaneros with playgrounds and an amphitheater for concerts.
Many of Havana’s classic car tours pass through the park. The 300-year-old banyan trees are covered in green vines, and it’s a very cool place to visit. You might see locals practicing Santeria in the river, a Caribbean religion where members sacrifice animals.
Plaza De La Revolución
Giant Che Guevara Mural at Revolution Square
The largest public square in Cuba, and one of the largest in the world, Plaza de la Revolucion is where Cuba’s most important government offices are located. The Ministerio del Interior boasts a massive mural of Cuba’s revolutionary hero Che Guevara.
The square is a bit out of the way from the heart of the capital, so most tourists get there via one of the classic car taxis that you can rent from Old Havana. Driving by this famous mural was one of my favorite things to do in the city.
Pop By Hemingway’s Old House
Earnest Hemingway’s House in Havana
Just outside of Havana you’ll find Finca Vigía, the former colonial home of Earnest Hemingway. It’s where he wrote some of his most famous novels like: For Whom the Bell Tolls and The Old Man and the Sea. You can’t go inside the house itself, but you can look through the windows.
There’s a museum there open from 10am to 4pm Monday through Saturday and 9am to 1pm on Sundays. It’s a bit of a haul to get out there from Havana, so only do this if you have some extra time. Visit early in the morning to avoid the bus tour crowds.
Hotel Kempinski Rooftop Pool
This beautiful panoramic pool terrace and bar at Havana’s Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski has awesome views of the Havana Vieja area, including the recently refurbished Capitol Building.
This new infinity rooftop pool (and the luxury hotel) is an example of things to come as Cuba prepares for increased tourism. Unfortunately, Americans aren’t technically allowed to book this hotel, as it’s owned by the Cuban government.
Fabrica De Arte Cubano
The Cuban Art Factory
The Cuban Art Factory was founded by famous Afro-Cuban musician X-Alfonso, and is one of Havana’s hippest spots to soak in modern Cuban culture. It’s a mix between a nightclub, gallery, and performance center that promotes local Cuban artists, writers, photographers, and filmmakers.
Open from Thursday to Sunday, this giant factory building is often packed by 11pm, and is the perfect place to start your wild night on the town in Havana. Each room is different — some with live bands, others full of art. You’ll have a wonderful experience no matter what you’re in to.
The Revolution Museum
Plane from Cuban Revolution
Formerly the Presidential Palace, Havana’s Revolution Museum depicts the time period before, during, and right after the Cuban Revolution. You can still find bullet holes in the central staircase from a failed assassination attempt of President Fulgencio Batista.
Out back you’ll find some old military vehicles, tanks used during the Bay of Pigs operation, airplanes, and the yacht used to ferry Castro from Mexico to Cuba to start the revolution in the first place.
Climb La Guarida’s Staircase
Old-School Romantic Staircase
Probably’s Havana’s most famous Paladar, La Guarida Restaurant sits at the top floor of an old dilapidated-looking building, complete with a beautiful grand staircase. Traveling celebrities often stop in to eat here.
It’s usually difficult to book a table, and the meal prices aren’t cheap either. But you’re really paying for the interesting atmosphere & history. It kinda feels like you’re staring into your own international spy movie from the 50’s! Pretty cool.
Getting To (and Around) Havana
Despite the recent easing of Cuba’s travel laws, some restrictions are still in place for Americans. Technically you can only visit if you fall into one of 12 special categories.
However there are some ways around the rules, and it’s totally possible to visit as a tourist if you follow a few completely legal “loopholes”.
➜ How To Legally Visit Cuba As An American
Airlines that serve Cuba directly from the US now include: Alaska Airlines, American Airlines, Delta Airlines, Jet Blue, Southwest Airlines, Spirit Airlines, and United Airlines.
Once you’re on the ground, local taxis are everywhere. There are the classic car versions, which are kinda expensive (negotiate first), or the local shared taxis, which only cost 0.50 CUC per person (but you need to know their set route or speak Spanish).
Best Time To Visit Havana
Havana is sunny year-round, so you really can’t go wrong in terms of choosing a time of year to visit. But be wary of the force of the Cuban sun. For those who are prone to heat exhaustion or have lighter skin, take extra precaution.
The autumn can be lovely but visiting then is risky because of hurricane season. I find that a happy medium is to visit sometime in the winter (November-March), as it’s both warm enough to enjoy the beaches but not hot enough to make you wish you were holed up in your air-conditioned hotel.
During the winter, the crowds have lessened and you can experience a more authentic Havana. Plus, New Year’s Eve in the city is an unforgettable spectacle.
Where To Stay In Havana
The most authentic places to stay in Havana are called Casa Particulares, which are guest rooms in Cuban family homes that you can find by simply asking around.
Typically, these rooms run from 10 to 30 CUC per night, but be sure to add a bit to that cost if you want homemade breakfast included.
Hotel Saratoga, Hotel Nacional de Cuba, and Hotel Florida
Travel Tips for Havana Cuba
Useful Travel Tips For Havana
If you want to save some money, and don’t have to go too far, trying hiring a bicycle taxi or a “coco taxi” scooter for a fun ride.
Don’t spend all your time in Havana! There is so much more to Cuba than the capital city. Check out Vinales, Trinidad, and Varadero if you have the time.
Bring a filtered water bottle, as bottled water can sometimes be difficult to find outside of major cities.
Even if you normally prefer hotels, I recommend spending at least one night in a casas particular with locals to see what it’s like.
Learn some basic Spanish words! While some English is common in Havana, attempting to speak Spanish will give you more opportunities to interact with people.
USEFUL TRAVEL RESOURCES FOR CUBA
Havana Map – Plan your trip around Cuba with this handy map Planning Advice – Get help planning a legal trip to Cuba Book A Flight: Learn how I find the cheapest airline flights Find A Hotel: My tips for booking affordable accommodation Protect Your Stuff: WorldNomads.com can insure your trip & gear Recommended Guidebook: Lonely Planet Cuba Suggested Reading: The Other Side Of Paradise
READ MORE FROM CUBA
How To Travel To Cuba For Americans Horseback Riding & Tobacco Farms In Vinales Discovering The Magic Of Trinidad Cuba Cuba Travel Guide: Travel Tips & Costs
Have any travel questions about things to do in Havana? Other suggestions or tips? Drop me a message in the comments below!
This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.
from Tips For Traveling https://expertvagabond.com/havana-cuba/
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Best Of Havana: What To Do In Cuba’s Capital City
Best Things to do in Havana, Cuba
Havana, Cuba
The vibrant capital city of Havana, Cuba has long been inaccessible to American travelers, but thankfully this is no longer the case. Here are some of my favorite things to do in the City of Columns!
In recent years, Cuba has seen major changes and opened its doors to visitors. More and more American’s are now visiting Cuba than ever before, and tourism has been on the rise — for good reason!
Only an hour away from Miami by plane, Havana is a majestic blend of old and new, vintage cars and colorful, often crumbling infrastructure; its energy pulses with a vibrant mix of Spanish colonial architecture, booming nightlife and kitschy art galleries.
For a small city, Havana seems to have an endless list of things to do catering to every kind of traveler. Maybe you’re a cigar aficionado or simply looking for some R&R, Havana has something to offer everyone.
Best Things To Do In Havana
After spending some time in the capital city during my road trip around Cuba, I wanted to put together a comprehensive travel guide to Havana that would help you plan your own journey.
This is part of what makes Havana unique and what captivated me in particular — the sense that there is always something more to uncover around every corner.
Whether it’s a sultry salsa performance or hidden bar tucked away behind the narrow streets of a colorful neighborhood — you’ll never get bored of things to do!
Visit El Morro Castle
Cuba’s Pirate Protection
El Morro Castle, otherwise known as “Castillo del Morro”, is a great starting point once you arrive in Havana. It’s situated on top of a rocky promontory at the entrance of Havana’s bay—it can’t be missed! It’s a massive fort with an equally impressive history.
The castle was built starting in 1590 to protect Havana against military attacks, and also served as a watch post to keep an eye out for enemies (like pirates!). It is composed of 3 bastions linked by curtain walls, casemented barracks and also houses cisterns, a chapel, officer’s quarters, a wine cellar, stables, and dungeons.
Today, Morro Castle is used as a museum and can be visited for a small fee. Its fantastic views make it a great first stop, a short taxi ride from the city center.
Explore Old Havana On Foot
Local Neighborhoods in Havana Vieja
As both the city center and the municipality with the second highest population density in Havana, Havana Vieja is quite possibly the most beautiful area of the city and a must-see if you’re visiting. Many buildings have fallen into ruin, but many starting to get restored.
The area is a colorful labyrinth of narrow streets, lively local neighborhoods, courtyards, forts, monuments, and churches that make up the pulsating heart of Havana. While you should definitely enjoy yourself strolling around the old city, just beware of jineteros, local hustlers trying to make a buck off you.
Tropicana Nightclub Show
Havana’s Most Famous Nightlife
Known as one of the hottest cabaret shows in the world, the Tropicana Nightclub Show is a world-famous spectacle set in a lush, tropical open-air venue that bursts with colorful lights, glitter, and glam. Salsa-charged and sensual, it’s a must-do activity during any trip to Havana Cuba.
Performers’ gaudy, feathered costumes are spectacles in and of themselves, but it’s the show as a whole that leaves you floored. Tickets are a bit pricey -— roughly $85 USD per person -— but include a welcome drink and cigar. We had a great night there!
Tour Havana By Classic Car
Tour Havana by Classic Car
When you think of things to do in Havana, chances are rolling down the street in a colorful, vintage convertible with the top down is a top contender. There are plenty of options for vintage car tours in Havana, and most operate like a regular taxi.
For pre-planned tours, there is usually a flat-fee (about 40 – 50 CUC per hour) that the driver communicates up front. But if you’re feeling spontaneous, you can easily hail a vintage car to go anywhere in the city. Make sure to stop in some photogenic locations to get those Instagram photos!
Stroll Along “El Malecon” Boardwalk
Stroll Along the Seaside on El Malecon
If you want an intimate glimpse at life in Havana, walk El Malecon. Translated as “the pier”, El Malecon is a restored seafront walkway situated along the city’s north coastline and provides lovely views of Havana’s iconic architecture.
It’s also the unofficial symbol of the city, and often can be seen on postcards and in films. El Malecon is a destination in and of itself, so food and music is abundant all along the pier.
And if you visit during late July or early August, El Malecon comes alive with one of the biggest festivals in Cuba —- the Havana Carnival.
Enjoy Cuban Cigars At Hotel Nacional
Cigars & Rum at Havana’s Famous Hotel Nacional
Cuba has elevated cigar smoking to an art form. For that reason, you can pretty much find a good cigar anywhere in Havana—but if you’re looking for the best spot to light up and take in the classy, glamorous, atmosphere that this city evokes, look no further than Hotel Nacional.
Hotel Nacional is not only the most famous hotel in Havana -— it’s also home to one of the city’s best cigar shops called La Casa del Habano. Or you can enjoy your cigar in the hotel’s backyard and bar, relaxing amidst ocean views, palm trees, and even peacocks strolling by!
Visit Hemingway’s Watering Holes
Have a Drink at El Floridita Bar
Ernest Hemingway lived outside Havana for twenty years, and naturally got much of the inspiration for his novels from the city—more specifically, from its bars. El Floridita, Dos Hermanos and La Bodeguita del Medio were Hemingway’s favorite bars when he lived there, and today they can be visited just like any other bar.
Watch out though, as a few of them have turned into tourist traps. La Bodeguita was my favorite Hemingway-approved watering hole and still retains much of the subdued, authentic atmosphere you’d expect Hemingway probably loved. They have live salsa music, and also make a mean mojito, which never hurts.
Try A Cuban Pizza!
Typical Cuban Pizza in Havana
Sure, everyone knows they should eat a Cuban sandwich while in Cuba. But did you know these famous sandwiches were actually created in Florida? Instead, why not order a classic Cuban pizza while visiting Havana!
What makes Cuban pizza special is the “sofrito” — essentially a holy mix of onion, garlic, and bell pepper sautéed in olive oil with tomato and spices. In Havana, crappy pizza is everywhere, and the good stuff is a bit trickier to find.
For starters, I recommend heading to 5 Esquinas Trattoria on Cuarteles Avenue. Their pizza is baked in a wood oven, and the spot is a prime location for people-watching. Another tasty spot is Bella Ciao, which has a reputation for the freshest pizza (and pasta!) in Havana.
Hit The Beaches Nearby
Packed Weekend at Playa Santa Maria
Cuba’s proximity to the equator means that it’s always beach season in Havana. The island’s entire coastline is pretty much a white sand, turquoise-watered dream, so it’s hard to go wrong with picking a beach.
If you’re looking for a party atmosphere, head to Santa María del Mar, the biggest and most well-known beach in Havana. The downside to this one, though, is the crowds. But if you’re visiting in the autumn or winter you should be ok.
If you’re looking for a quieter beach day that isn’t as popular with tourists, try Playa Boca Ciega.
How About Some Rum In A Box?
Horrible Cheap Rum in a Box…
Wander the streets of Havana for a night on the town, and you’ll soon learn all about “rum in a box”. Known as the juice box for big kids, this rotgut rum is sold in individual packs. You’ll see locals partying with their box of Tumbao or Planchao.
It’s cheap as hell, pretty disgusting, and will leave you with a painful headache the next morning if you drink too much of it. But if you want to make some new friends, rip a fresh box open with your teeth and pass it around!
Visit The Capitol Building
Havana’s Capitol Building
El Capitolio, or Cuba’s Capitol Building, was built in 1929 and based off of the US Capitol in Washington DC. It has been closed to the public for the last 8 years for a big restoration project — but just recently re-opened.
Previously used as the Ministry of Science & Technology, the newly renovated structure is now the seat of Cuba’s national assembly, where they selected a new president last April. Visitors can tour the Capitol in groups of 15 from Tuesday to Sunday each week.
Dance To Some Cuban Music
Live Cuban Salsa Music
Salsa is everywhere in Havana—in bars, restaurants, even impromptu dances along sidewalks are a regular occurrence. We hit the bars & clubs a few different times to check out live music, one of my favorites was a bar called Kilometro Zero.
But if you want to take your salsa admiration one step further, sign up for a lesson. Casa del Son is Havana’s biggest and best dance school, offering locals and visitors classes in just about every type of traditional Cuban dance.
Watch Cannons Blast Off!
Fort San Carlos Cannon Ceremony
Ever since the 18th-century, a cannon has been fired in Havana every evening at 9pm at the Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabaña (Fort of St Charles). Back then, Havana was divided in two and Cuba’s Spanish rulers would fire the cannon to inform the Habaneros to take shelter against pirate attacks.
Today, the nightly event is still quite a spectacle, equipped with a drum roll and artillery cadets lining the fort dressed in colonial uniforms. The event is free, always on time, and onlookers are encouraged! This is one of the lesser-known things to do in Havana.
Stay Hydrated With Guarapo
Cuban Sugar Cane Juice
What is guarapo, you ask? It’s raw sugar cane juice that’s been extracted from palm-tree sap, and also the most delicious drink you can find in Cuba. The cheapest, too. It’s usually mixed with lime and ice and can be found pretty much in every bar, restaurant, or street side bodega.
You can also try it as an alcoholic beverage (usually mixed with rum). Guarapo is on of the best drinks to try in Havana, and a consistently fantastic spot to get your cane-juice drink on is Arsenal Street, right in front of the train station.
Viñales Tobacco Fields Road Trip
Visit the Tobacco Farms of Vinales
After a few days in Havana, no one would blame you for wanting to escape the city for a day to find something else to do, and the town of Viñales should fix you right up. It’s a small village tucked away in the middle of green fields, tobacco plantations and rock formations.
About a 2-3 hour drive from Havana, Viñales makes for a great day trip, although I do recommend spending at least one night there to get the full sense of the town.
There are buses leaving daily from Havana to Viñales, or you can rent a classic car like we did. Viñales is known for its tobacco farms and limestone hills. Horseback riding is a popular way to enjoy the lush scenery and country atmosphere.
Visit Cámera Obscura
View from the Gómez Vila Building
You can get a brilliant 360-degree panoramic view of Old Havana from the top floor of the Gómez Vila building in Plaza Vieja, the tallest building in Old Havana. It’s got the only “Camera Oscura” in all of Latin America and the Caribbean.
The camera projects real-time images of the city at 30X magnification through just a peephole onto a dark screen. Havana’s Cámera Obscura costs only 2 CUC to visit, and even the view from the roof is totally worth it.
Trip Out In Fusterlandia
Fusterlandia Art Installation
Cuba’s rich artistic tradition is alive and well in part thanks to artist Jose Fuster, who has built a mosaic tile wonderland called Fusterlandia in the fishing village of Jaimanitas, just 20 minutes outside of Havana.
Fusterlandia is unique in that it isn’t its own site-specific artwork, but rather crafted into the neighborhood. Residents have actually allowed Fuster to decorate their homes and turn them into colorful, eye-popping gems.
There is a gallery you can visit between 9:30am and 4:00pm, Wednesday to Sunday. If you don’t make it to the gallery, you can always just drive through the neighborhood to get a feel of things.
Eat At A Local Paladar
Where to Eat in Havana
If you only stick to government-run restaurants frequented by tourists, you’ll miss out on Cuba’s true flavor. So make sure to stop into a paladar (locally-run restaurant) for an authentic Cuban food experience.
Good Cuban food is a delicious fusion of African and Spanish food, and very much resembles a lot of the food you can find throughout the Caribbean — rich, dense, and heavy on the spices.
One great paladar I recommend is called San Cristóbal, located in the bottom floor of an early 20th-century mansion. Make sure you try the traditional ropa vieja. Shredded, stewed beef with vegetables!
Explore Havana’s Green Forest
Explore Havana’s Forest
El Bosque De La Habana (the Lungs of Havana) is a swamp-like forest home to the Almendares River and is a popular spot for locals to get away from the city center and breathe some fresh air. It’s a recreational area for Habaneros with playgrounds and an amphitheater for concerts.
Many of Havana’s classic car tours pass through the park. The 300-year-old banyan trees are covered in green vines, and it’s a very cool place to visit. You might see locals practicing Santeria in the river, a Caribbean religion where members sacrifice animals.
Plaza De La Revolución
Giant Che Guevara Mural at Revolution Square
The largest public square in Cuba, and one of the largest in the world, Plaza de la Revolucion is where Cuba’s most important government offices are located. The Ministerio del Interior boasts a massive mural of Cuba’s revolutionary hero Che Guevara.
The square is a bit out of the way from the heart of the capital, so most tourists get there via one of the classic car taxis that you can rent from Old Havana. Driving by this famous mural was one of my favorite things to do in the city.
Pop By Hemingway’s Old House
Earnest Hemingway’s House in Havana
Just outside of Havana you’ll find Finca Vigía, the former colonial home of Earnest Hemingway. It’s where he wrote some of his most famous novels like: For Whom the Bell Tolls and The Old Man and the Sea. You can’t go inside the house itself, but you can look through the windows.
There’s a museum there open from 10am to 4pm Monday through Saturday and 9am to 1pm on Sundays. It’s a bit of a haul to get out there from Havana, so only do this if you have some extra time. Visit early in the morning to avoid the bus tour crowds.
Hotel Kempinski Rooftop Pool
This beautiful panoramic pool terrace and bar at Havana’s Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski has awesome views of the Havana Vieja area, including the recently refurbished Capitol Building.
This new infinity rooftop pool (and the luxury hotel) is an example of things to come as Cuba prepares for increased tourism. Unfortunately, Americans aren’t technically allowed to book this hotel, as it’s owned by the Cuban government.
Fabrica De Arte Cubano
The Cuban Art Factory
The Cuban Art Factory was founded by famous Afro-Cuban musician X-Alfonso, and is one of Havana’s hippest spots to soak in modern Cuban culture. It’s a mix between a nightclub, gallery, and performance center that promotes local Cuban artists, writers, photographers, and filmmakers.
Open from Thursday to Sunday, this giant factory building is often packed by 11pm, and is the perfect place to start your wild night on the town in Havana. Each room is different — some with live bands, others full of art. You’ll have a wonderful experience no matter what you’re in to.
The Revolution Museum
Plane from Cuban Revolution
Formerly the Presidential Palace, Havana’s Revolution Museum depicts the time period before, during, and right after the Cuban Revolution. You can still find bullet holes in the central staircase from a failed assassination attempt of President Fulgencio Batista.
Out back you’ll find some old military vehicles, tanks used during the Bay of Pigs operation, airplanes, and the yacht used to ferry Castro from Mexico to Cuba to start the revolution in the first place.
Climb La Guarida’s Staircase
Old-School Romantic Staircase
Probably’s Havana’s most famous Paladar, La Guarida Restaurant sits at the top floor of an old dilapidated-looking building, complete with a beautiful grand staircase. Traveling celebrities often stop in to eat here.
It’s usually difficult to book a table, and the meal prices aren’t cheap either. But you’re really paying for the interesting atmosphere & history. It kinda feels like you’re staring into your own international spy movie from the 50’s! Pretty cool.
Getting To (and Around) Havana
Despite the recent easing of Cuba’s travel laws, some restrictions are still in place for Americans. Technically you can only visit if you fall into one of 12 special categories.
However there are some ways around the rules, and it’s totally possible to visit as a tourist if you follow a few completely legal “loopholes”.
➜ How To Legally Visit Cuba As An American
Airlines that serve Cuba directly from the US now include: Alaska Airlines, American Airlines, Delta Airlines, Jet Blue, Southwest Airlines, Spirit Airlines, and United Airlines.
Once you’re on the ground, local taxis are everywhere. There are the classic car versions, which are kinda expensive (negotiate first), or the local shared taxis, which only cost 0.50 CUC per person (but you need to know their set route or speak Spanish).
Best Time To Visit Havana
Havana is sunny year-round, so you really can’t go wrong in terms of choosing a time of year to visit. But be wary of the force of the Cuban sun. For those who are prone to heat exhaustion or have lighter skin, take extra precaution.
The autumn can be lovely but visiting then is risky because of hurricane season. I find that a happy medium is to visit sometime in the winter (November-March), as it’s both warm enough to enjoy the beaches but not hot enough to make you wish you were holed up in your air-conditioned hotel.
During the winter, the crowds have lessened and you can experience a more authentic Havana. Plus, New Year’s Eve in the city is an unforgettable spectacle.
Where To Stay In Havana
The most authentic places to stay in Havana are called Casa Particulares, which are guest rooms in Cuban family homes that you can find by simply asking around.
Typically, these rooms run from 10 to 30 CUC per night, but be sure to add a bit to that cost if you want homemade breakfast included.
Hotel Saratoga, Hotel Nacional de Cuba, and Hotel Florida
Travel Tips for Havana Cuba
Useful Travel Tips For Havana
If you want to save some money, and don’t have to go too far, trying hiring a bicycle taxi or a “coco taxi” scooter for a fun ride.
Don’t spend all your time in Havana! There is so much more to Cuba than the capital city. Check out Vinales, Trinidad, and Varadero if you have the time.
Bring a filtered water bottle, as bottled water can sometimes be difficult to find outside of major cities.
Even if you normally prefer hotels, I recommend spending at least one night in a casas particular with locals to see what it’s like.
Learn some basic Spanish words! While some English is common in Havana, attempting to speak Spanish will give you more opportunities to interact with people.
USEFUL TRAVEL RESOURCES FOR CUBA
Havana Map – Plan your trip around Cuba with this handy map Planning Advice – Get help planning a legal trip to Cuba Book A Flight: Learn how I find the cheapest airline flights Find A Hotel: My tips for booking affordable accommodation Protect Your Stuff: WorldNomads.com can insure your trip & gear Recommended Guidebook: Lonely Planet Cuba Suggested Reading: The Other Side Of Paradise
READ MORE FROM CUBA
How To Travel To Cuba For Americans Horseback Riding & Tobacco Farms In Vinales Discovering The Magic Of Trinidad Cuba Cuba Travel Guide: Travel Tips & Costs
Have any travel questions about things to do in Havana? Other suggestions or tips? Drop me a message in the comments below!
This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.
from Tips For Traveling https://expertvagabond.com/havana-cuba/
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Best Of Havana: What To Do In Cuba’s Capital City
Best Things to do in Havana, Cuba
Havana, Cuba
The vibrant capital city of Havana, Cuba has long been inaccessible to American travelers, but thankfully this is no longer the case. Here are some of my favorite things to do in the City of Columns!
In recent years, Cuba has seen major changes and opened its doors to visitors. More and more American’s are now visiting Cuba than ever before, and tourism has been on the rise — for good reason!
Only an hour away from Miami by plane, Havana is a majestic blend of old and new, vintage cars and colorful, often crumbling infrastructure; its energy pulses with a vibrant mix of Spanish colonial architecture, booming nightlife and kitschy art galleries.
For a small city, Havana seems to have an endless list of things to do catering to every kind of traveler. Maybe you’re a cigar aficionado or simply looking for some R&R, Havana has something to offer everyone.
Best Things To Do In Havana
After spending some time in the capital city during my road trip around Cuba, I wanted to put together a comprehensive travel guide to Havana that would help you plan your own journey.
This is part of what makes Havana unique and what captivated me in particular — the sense that there is always something more to uncover around every corner.
Whether it’s a sultry salsa performance or hidden bar tucked away behind the narrow streets of a colorful neighborhood — you’ll never get bored of things to do!
Visit El Morro Castle
Cuba’s Pirate Protection
El Morro Castle, otherwise known as “Castillo del Morro”, is a great starting point once you arrive in Havana. It’s situated on top of a rocky promontory at the entrance of Havana’s bay—it can’t be missed! It’s a massive fort with an equally impressive history.
The castle was built starting in 1590 to protect Havana against military attacks, and also served as a watch post to keep an eye out for enemies (like pirates!). It is composed of 3 bastions linked by curtain walls, casemented barracks and also houses cisterns, a chapel, officer’s quarters, a wine cellar, stables, and dungeons.
Today, Morro Castle is used as a museum and can be visited for a small fee. Its fantastic views make it a great first stop, a short taxi ride from the city center.
Explore Old Havana On Foot
Local Neighborhoods in Havana Vieja
As both the city center and the municipality with the second highest population density in Havana, Havana Vieja is quite possibly the most beautiful area of the city and a must-see if you’re visiting. Many buildings have fallen into ruin, but many starting to get restored.
The area is a colorful labyrinth of narrow streets, lively local neighborhoods, courtyards, forts, monuments, and churches that make up the pulsating heart of Havana. While you should definitely enjoy yourself strolling around the old city, just beware of jineteros, local hustlers trying to make a buck off you.
Tropicana Nightclub Show
Havana’s Most Famous Nightlife
Known as one of the hottest cabaret shows in the world, the Tropicana Nightclub Show is a world-famous spectacle set in a lush, tropical open-air venue that bursts with colorful lights, glitter, and glam. Salsa-charged and sensual, it’s a must-do activity during any trip to Havana Cuba.
Performers’ gaudy, feathered costumes are spectacles in and of themselves, but it’s the show as a whole that leaves you floored. Tickets are a bit pricey -— roughly $85 USD per person -— but include a welcome drink and cigar. We had a great night there!
Tour Havana By Classic Car
Tour Havana by Classic Car
When you think of things to do in Havana, chances are rolling down the street in a colorful, vintage convertible with the top down is a top contender. There are plenty of options for vintage car tours in Havana, and most operate like a regular taxi.
For pre-planned tours, there is usually a flat-fee (about 40 – 50 CUC per hour) that the driver communicates up front. But if you’re feeling spontaneous, you can easily hail a vintage car to go anywhere in the city. Make sure to stop in some photogenic locations to get those Instagram photos!
Stroll Along “El Malecon” Boardwalk
Stroll Along the Seaside on El Malecon
If you want an intimate glimpse at life in Havana, walk El Malecon. Translated as “the pier”, El Malecon is a restored seafront walkway situated along the city’s north coastline and provides lovely views of Havana’s iconic architecture.
It’s also the unofficial symbol of the city, and often can be seen on postcards and in films. El Malecon is a destination in and of itself, so food and music is abundant all along the pier.
And if you visit during late July or early August, El Malecon comes alive with one of the biggest festivals in Cuba —- the Havana Carnival.
Enjoy Cuban Cigars At Hotel Nacional
Cigars & Rum at Havana’s Famous Hotel Nacional
Cuba has elevated cigar smoking to an art form. For that reason, you can pretty much find a good cigar anywhere in Havana—but if you’re looking for the best spot to light up and take in the classy, glamorous, atmosphere that this city evokes, look no further than Hotel Nacional.
Hotel Nacional is not only the most famous hotel in Havana -— it’s also home to one of the city’s best cigar shops called La Casa del Habano. Or you can enjoy your cigar in the hotel’s backyard and bar, relaxing amidst ocean views, palm trees, and even peacocks strolling by!
Visit Hemingway’s Watering Holes
Have a Drink at El Floridita Bar
Ernest Hemingway lived outside Havana for twenty years, and naturally got much of the inspiration for his novels from the city—more specifically, from its bars. El Floridita, Dos Hermanos and La Bodeguita del Medio were Hemingway’s favorite bars when he lived there, and today they can be visited just like any other bar.
Watch out though, as a few of them have turned into tourist traps. La Bodeguita was my favorite Hemingway-approved watering hole and still retains much of the subdued, authentic atmosphere you’d expect Hemingway probably loved. They have live salsa music, and also make a mean mojito, which never hurts.
Try A Cuban Pizza!
Typical Cuban Pizza in Havana
Sure, everyone knows they should eat a Cuban sandwich while in Cuba. But did you know these famous sandwiches were actually created in Florida? Instead, why not order a classic Cuban pizza while visiting Havana!
What makes Cuban pizza special is the “sofrito” — essentially a holy mix of onion, garlic, and bell pepper sautéed in olive oil with tomato and spices. In Havana, crappy pizza is everywhere, and the good stuff is a bit trickier to find.
For starters, I recommend heading to 5 Esquinas Trattoria on Cuarteles Avenue. Their pizza is baked in a wood oven, and the spot is a prime location for people-watching. Another tasty spot is Bella Ciao, which has a reputation for the freshest pizza (and pasta!) in Havana.
Hit The Beaches Nearby
Packed Weekend at Playa Santa Maria
Cuba’s proximity to the equator means that it’s always beach season in Havana. The island’s entire coastline is pretty much a white sand, turquoise-watered dream, so it’s hard to go wrong with picking a beach.
If you’re looking for a party atmosphere, head to Santa María del Mar, the biggest and most well-known beach in Havana. The downside to this one, though, is the crowds. But if you’re visiting in the autumn or winter you should be ok.
If you’re looking for a quieter beach day that isn’t as popular with tourists, try Playa Boca Ciega.
How About Some Rum In A Box?
Horrible Cheap Rum in a Box…
Wander the streets of Havana for a night on the town, and you’ll soon learn all about “rum in a box”. Known as the juice box for big kids, this rotgut rum is sold in individual packs. You’ll see locals partying with their box of Tumbao or Planchao.
It’s cheap as hell, pretty disgusting, and will leave you with a painful headache the next morning if you drink too much of it. But if you want to make some new friends, rip a fresh box open with your teeth and pass it around!
Visit The Capitol Building
Havana’s Capitol Building
El Capitolio, or Cuba’s Capitol Building, was built in 1929 and based off of the US Capitol in Washington DC. It has been closed to the public for the last 8 years for a big restoration project — but just recently re-opened.
Previously used as the Ministry of Science & Technology, the newly renovated structure is now the seat of Cuba’s national assembly, where they selected a new president last April. Visitors can tour the Capitol in groups of 15 from Tuesday to Sunday each week.
Dance To Some Cuban Music
Live Cuban Salsa Music
Salsa is everywhere in Havana—in bars, restaurants, even impromptu dances along sidewalks are a regular occurrence. We hit the bars & clubs a few different times to check out live music, one of my favorites was a bar called Kilometro Zero.
But if you want to take your salsa admiration one step further, sign up for a lesson. Casa del Son is Havana’s biggest and best dance school, offering locals and visitors classes in just about every type of traditional Cuban dance.
Watch Cannons Blast Off!
Fort San Carlos Cannon Ceremony
Ever since the 18th-century, a cannon has been fired in Havana every evening at 9pm at the Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabaña (Fort of St Charles). Back then, Havana was divided in two and Cuba’s Spanish rulers would fire the cannon to inform the Habaneros to take shelter against pirate attacks.
Today, the nightly event is still quite a spectacle, equipped with a drum roll and artillery cadets lining the fort dressed in colonial uniforms. The event is free, always on time, and onlookers are encouraged! This is one of the lesser-known things to do in Havana.
Stay Hydrated With Guarapo
Cuban Sugar Cane Juice
What is guarapo, you ask? It’s raw sugar cane juice that’s been extracted from palm-tree sap, and also the most delicious drink you can find in Cuba. The cheapest, too. It’s usually mixed with lime and ice and can be found pretty much in every bar, restaurant, or street side bodega.
You can also try it as an alcoholic beverage (usually mixed with rum). Guarapo is on of the best drinks to try in Havana, and a consistently fantastic spot to get your cane-juice drink on is Arsenal Street, right in front of the train station.
Viñales Tobacco Fields Road Trip
Visit the Tobacco Farms of Vinales
After a few days in Havana, no one would blame you for wanting to escape the city for a day to find something else to do, and the town of Viñales should fix you right up. It’s a small village tucked away in the middle of green fields, tobacco plantations and rock formations.
About a 2-3 hour drive from Havana, Viñales makes for a great day trip, although I do recommend spending at least one night there to get the full sense of the town.
There are buses leaving daily from Havana to Viñales, or you can rent a classic car like we did. Viñales is known for its tobacco farms and limestone hills. Horseback riding is a popular way to enjoy the lush scenery and country atmosphere.
Visit Cámera Obscura
View from the Gómez Vila Building
You can get a brilliant 360-degree panoramic view of Old Havana from the top floor of the Gómez Vila building in Plaza Vieja, the tallest building in Old Havana. It’s got the only “Camera Oscura” in all of Latin America and the Caribbean.
The camera projects real-time images of the city at 30X magnification through just a peephole onto a dark screen. Havana’s Cámera Obscura costs only 2 CUC to visit, and even the view from the roof is totally worth it.
Trip Out In Fusterlandia
Fusterlandia Art Installation
Cuba’s rich artistic tradition is alive and well in part thanks to artist Jose Fuster, who has built a mosaic tile wonderland called Fusterlandia in the fishing village of Jaimanitas, just 20 minutes outside of Havana.
Fusterlandia is unique in that it isn’t its own site-specific artwork, but rather crafted into the neighborhood. Residents have actually allowed Fuster to decorate their homes and turn them into colorful, eye-popping gems.
There is a gallery you can visit between 9:30am and 4:00pm, Wednesday to Sunday. If you don’t make it to the gallery, you can always just drive through the neighborhood to get a feel of things.
Eat At A Local Paladar
Where to Eat in Havana
If you only stick to government-run restaurants frequented by tourists, you’ll miss out on Cuba’s true flavor. So make sure to stop into a paladar (locally-run restaurant) for an authentic Cuban food experience.
Good Cuban food is a delicious fusion of African and Spanish food, and very much resembles a lot of the food you can find throughout the Caribbean — rich, dense, and heavy on the spices.
One great paladar I recommend is called San Cristóbal, located in the bottom floor of an early 20th-century mansion. Make sure you try the traditional ropa vieja. Shredded, stewed beef with vegetables!
Explore Havana’s Green Forest
Explore Havana’s Forest
El Bosque De La Habana (the Lungs of Havana) is a swamp-like forest home to the Almendares River and is a popular spot for locals to get away from the city center and breathe some fresh air. It’s a recreational area for Habaneros with playgrounds and an amphitheater for concerts.
Many of Havana’s classic car tours pass through the park. The 300-year-old banyan trees are covered in green vines, and it’s a very cool place to visit. You might see locals practicing Santeria in the river, a Caribbean religion where members sacrifice animals.
Plaza De La Revolución
Giant Che Guevara Mural at Revolution Square
The largest public square in Cuba, and one of the largest in the world, Plaza de la Revolucion is where Cuba’s most important government offices are located. The Ministerio del Interior boasts a massive mural of Cuba’s revolutionary hero Che Guevara.
The square is a bit out of the way from the heart of the capital, so most tourists get there via one of the classic car taxis that you can rent from Old Havana. Driving by this famous mural was one of my favorite things to do in the city.
Pop By Hemingway’s Old House
Earnest Hemingway’s House in Havana
Just outside of Havana you’ll find Finca Vigía, the former colonial home of Earnest Hemingway. It’s where he wrote some of his most famous novels like: For Whom the Bell Tolls and The Old Man and the Sea. You can’t go inside the house itself, but you can look through the windows.
There’s a museum there open from 10am to 4pm Monday through Saturday and 9am to 1pm on Sundays. It’s a bit of a haul to get out there from Havana, so only do this if you have some extra time. Visit early in the morning to avoid the bus tour crowds.
Hotel Kempinski Rooftop Pool
This beautiful panoramic pool terrace and bar at Havana’s Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski has awesome views of the Havana Vieja area, including the recently refurbished Capitol Building.
This new infinity rooftop pool (and the luxury hotel) is an example of things to come as Cuba prepares for increased tourism. Unfortunately, Americans aren’t technically allowed to book this hotel, as it’s owned by the Cuban government.
Fabrica De Arte Cubano
The Cuban Art Factory
The Cuban Art Factory was founded by famous Afro-Cuban musician X-Alfonso, and is one of Havana’s hippest spots to soak in modern Cuban culture. It’s a mix between a nightclub, gallery, and performance center that promotes local Cuban artists, writers, photographers, and filmmakers.
Open from Thursday to Sunday, this giant factory building is often packed by 11pm, and is the perfect place to start your wild night on the town in Havana. Each room is different — some with live bands, others full of art. You’ll have a wonderful experience no matter what you’re in to.
The Revolution Museum
Plane from Cuban Revolution
Formerly the Presidential Palace, Havana’s Revolution Museum depicts the time period before, during, and right after the Cuban Revolution. You can still find bullet holes in the central staircase from a failed assassination attempt of President Fulgencio Batista.
Out back you’ll find some old military vehicles, tanks used during the Bay of Pigs operation, airplanes, and the yacht used to ferry Castro from Mexico to Cuba to start the revolution in the first place.
Climb La Guarida’s Staircase
Old-School Romantic Staircase
Probably’s Havana’s most famous Paladar, La Guarida Restaurant sits at the top floor of an old dilapidated-looking building, complete with a beautiful grand staircase. Traveling celebrities often stop in to eat here.
It’s usually difficult to book a table, and the meal prices aren’t cheap either. But you’re really paying for the interesting atmosphere & history. It kinda feels like you’re staring into your own international spy movie from the 50’s! Pretty cool.
Getting To (and Around) Havana
Despite the recent easing of Cuba’s travel laws, some restrictions are still in place for Americans. Technically you can only visit if you fall into one of 12 special categories.
However there are some ways around the rules, and it’s totally possible to visit as a tourist if you follow a few completely legal “loopholes”.
➜ How To Legally Visit Cuba As An American
Airlines that serve Cuba directly from the US now include: Alaska Airlines, American Airlines, Delta Airlines, Jet Blue, Southwest Airlines, Spirit Airlines, and United Airlines.
Once you’re on the ground, local taxis are everywhere. There are the classic car versions, which are kinda expensive (negotiate first), or the local shared taxis, which only cost 0.50 CUC per person (but you need to know their set route or speak Spanish).
Best Time To Visit Havana
Havana is sunny year-round, so you really can’t go wrong in terms of choosing a time of year to visit. But be wary of the force of the Cuban sun. For those who are prone to heat exhaustion or have lighter skin, take extra precaution.
The autumn can be lovely but visiting then is risky because of hurricane season. I find that a happy medium is to visit sometime in the winter (November-March), as it’s both warm enough to enjoy the beaches but not hot enough to make you wish you were holed up in your air-conditioned hotel.
During the winter, the crowds have lessened and you can experience a more authentic Havana. Plus, New Year’s Eve in the city is an unforgettable spectacle.
Where To Stay In Havana
The most authentic places to stay in Havana are called Casa Particulares, which are guest rooms in Cuban family homes that you can find by simply asking around.
Typically, these rooms run from 10 to 30 CUC per night, but be sure to add a bit to that cost if you want homemade breakfast included.
Hotel Saratoga, Hotel Nacional de Cuba, and Hotel Florida
Travel Tips for Havana Cuba
Useful Travel Tips For Havana
If you want to save some money, and don’t have to go too far, trying hiring a bicycle taxi or a “coco taxi” scooter for a fun ride.
Don’t spend all your time in Havana! There is so much more to Cuba than the capital city. Check out Vinales, Trinidad, and Varadero if you have the time.
Bring a filtered water bottle, as bottled water can sometimes be difficult to find outside of major cities.
Even if you normally prefer hotels, I recommend spending at least one night in a casas particular with locals to see what it’s like.
Learn some basic Spanish words! While some English is common in Havana, attempting to speak Spanish will give you more opportunities to interact with people.
USEFUL TRAVEL RESOURCES FOR CUBA
Havana Map – Plan your trip around Cuba with this handy map Planning Advice – Get help planning a legal trip to Cuba Book A Flight: Learn how I find the cheapest airline flights Find A Hotel: My tips for booking affordable accommodation Protect Your Stuff: WorldNomads.com can insure your trip & gear Recommended Guidebook: Lonely Planet Cuba Suggested Reading: The Other Side Of Paradise
READ MORE FROM CUBA
How To Travel To Cuba For Americans Horseback Riding & Tobacco Farms In Vinales Discovering The Magic Of Trinidad Cuba Cuba Travel Guide: Travel Tips & Costs
Have any travel questions about things to do in Havana? Other suggestions or tips? Drop me a message in the comments below!
This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.
from Tips For Traveling https://expertvagabond.com/havana-cuba/
0 notes