#Switching out the handlebars and brake levers next

[deweydecimalchickens]

The face of a woman who can stop Googling "how to pick a bike lock with a pen".

[sbknews]

New Post has been published on Superbike News

New Post has been published on http://superbike-news.co.uk/wordpress/road-runner-custom-indian-scout-sixty-by-motoshed/

‘Road Runner’ custom Indian Scout Sixty by MotoShed

‘Road Runner’ the aggressive, stripped back Scout Sixty is the first custom Indian Motorcycle from UK bike builders MotoShed and possibly the first Indian Scout with underseat exhausts.

MotoShed’s Road Runner project was born after two members of the group got the opportunity to ride a standard Indian Scout Sixty shortly after it was launched in 2016. They were so impressed with the experience that conversations soon began on how they would like to modify one. “We were blown away by how well the Scout performed but knew we could take it further as well as produce a beautifully finished and unique bike,” say MotoShed. “It was crying out for it and after just a few hours of sharing ideas, the key underseat exhaust idea was born, then we knew we had to do it. We ordered the Scout the next day.”

Since then, the group have spent countless hours in discussion, on planning and over 100 hours of actual work on the bike. Beyond the exhaust, the team had decided on some basic guiding principles for the build; a more aggressive riding position with improved suspension and greater ground clearance. “We could tell the Scout Sixty had a lot of potential, so we really wanted to push the riding experience by dramatically increasing its cornering performance. To match this increased ability, we also wanted to strip the bike back to the essentials for a clean, light-weight appearance, but retaining a factory look.”

Once it had been stripped of all the parts that MotoShed wanted to replace, modify or just eliminate from the final bike, the complexity of the underseat exhaust plan became clearer. “It really was the most complicated part of the build. On the standard bike, there are a lot of important components hidden away under the seat such as the battery, ECU and a lot of wiring. It’s an impressive packaging job by Indian Motorcycle.”

Removing the ABS pump from beneath the bike allowed MotoShed to build a custom battery box in its place. Relocated to the new enclosure were a smaller race-style battery, regulator/rectifier, and ECU all of which required a lot of work to re-route and extend the wiring loom.

With the underseat space clear, work began on routing the pipes round the engine and through the gap. Managing the heat was a big concern and the pipes were wrapped to get more of the heat to the end of the pipes and away from the rider’s legs – with the added bonus of looking great. Additional heat management required the fabrication of a rear hugger/heat shield which also keeps the road dirt away from the exhausts. With such short pipes, one of which is 20% shorter than the other, a Dynojet Power Vision CX system was incorporated to log data and help to perfectly re-map the ECU and fly-by-wire throttle. “It’s fair to say that, right now, it is a bit too loud. It fuels perfectly and the throttle response is excellent but we will be working on making it a bit quieter.”

Changing the riding position to a more aggressive sports stance meant replacing the standard foot controls with rearset Rizoma items mounted to custom plates and complemented with a set of lower Renthal handlebars. The new riding position is much more aggressive tilting the rider forward and the rearsets also increase the cornering clearance. Further improvements to the ground clearance are thanks to the stiffer suspension set-up which holds the bike higher with more controlled compression when cornering.

Whilst the majority of work was undertaken by members of the group, MotoShed also wanted to involve other experts. “The difference between a good custom and a great custom is all in the detail. Having worked in the motorcycle industry for many years, we’ve all made some great contacts with some of the best people in their field, people who can really make all the difference on our projects.”

Experts called in on Road Runner for their specialist skills included: Chris Walton of CW Engineering who hand made the sheet metal elements such as the headlight nacelle, front mudguard and rear hugger and Steve Adams, an ex-Aston Martin upholsterer who re-finished the 1920 Solo Saddle Seat and Illusion Race Paint.

For the hand controls minimalist billet switch gear was chosen with Galfer clutch lever, brake lever and master cylinder the blacked-out theme evolved. Fully adjustable rear suspension from HyperPro was added, while a JB Speaker LED headlight was selected to give a modern sporty twist.

Continuing the attention to detail and to enhance the lightweight, stealth appearance, many covers and panels have been dipped with a carbon fibre look. This gives the ultra-lightweight carbon look but retains all the details of the original component such as the year 1901 on the side cover. Continuing the sporty theme, is a unique carbon fibre water header tank, sourced from a renowned British Superbike team.

Finishing off the blacked-out look, the team also removed the standard forks had them black nitride coated, giving a superbike-aesthetic appearance and adding to the stealth look, while a complete black titanium bolt kit was applied to the engine and chassis also.

With such significant changes to the Scout and with the team’s vision fulfilled of creating a sportier version that retained a factory look, the only thing left to do was to give it a unique identity. And so, the Road Runner themed logo was designed by the team and applied as the finishing touch.

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ABOUT MOTOSHED A group of like-minded enthusiasts who prefer their bikes to do the talking. Those involved have all worked in the motorcycle industry for the last 20 years, with experience wide-ranging from bike building, to race preparation, design and marketing.

The MotoShed crew are not restrained by styles or trends, instead simply build what they like, always looking to push the boundaries, but always maintaining a key objective – make it ride better.

ABOUT INDIAN MOTORCYCLE Indian Motorcycle, a wholly owned subsidiary of Polaris Industries Inc. (NYSE: PII), is America’s first motorcycle company. Founded in 1901, Indian Motorcycle has won the hearts of motorcyclists around the world and earned distinction as one of America’s most legendary and iconic brands through unrivalled racing dominance, engineering prowess and countless innovations and industry firsts. Today that heritage and passion is reignited under new brand stewardship. To learn more, please visit www.indianmotorcycle.eu

[olivereliott]

Speed Read, September 12, 2021

We’re launching into this week’s round-up with a radically reworked Moto Guzzi Bellagio, and finishing off with a look at the upcoming Moto Guzzi V100 Mandello. Wedged in between are a garage-built Honda CB450, a rescued Harley-Davidson Sportster 883, and a Royal Enfield 650 from XTR Pepo.

Moto Guzzi Bellagio by Guzzi Motobox Custom shops that specialize in a particular marque have a habit of pulling out all the stops—and Guzzi Motobox in Catalonia is probably one of the best examples. After all, how many workshops could turn the laid back Moto Guzzi Bellagio into a fire breathing cafe racer?

GMB’s work on this Bellagio is a double whammy; they’ve not only dramatically changed its silhouette, but also given it a boost under the hood.

Using cylinders and pistons from specialist outfit Radical Guzzi, GMB took the motor from 935 cc to 1,500 cc, with four valves per cylinder instead of two. The team also converted the bike from fuel injection to a carbureted setup, and ditched the air box for a pair of velocity stacks. The stock exhaust headers were tweaked to run a pair of HP Corse mufflers.

The running gear’s been upgraded too, with the Showa forks from a Kawasaki ZX10R up front, and a custom built Öhlins shock out back.

The wheels are stunning 17” spoked units from Kineo, and the brakes are Brembos, complete with carbon fiber cooling ducts on the front discs. It wasn’t all plug-and-play though: GMB boss Manel Segarra reports that matching up the front forks, wheel and brakes took a lot of fiddling.

Higher up, GMB built a whole new subframe to sharpen up the Bellagio’s lines. The fuel tank and tail section, plus the front fender, are all custom pieces. “A close friend, German Dervidson, made them for us,” explains Manel. “We made the pieces in a special foam, and German replicated them with aluminum.”

The Guzzi also wears new rear sets and foot controls, with clip-ons, Beringer levers and switchgear from Renard Speed Shop up top. Other add-ons include new yokes, a small GMB speedo and an LED headlight. A custom carrier at the back holds the license plate, along with a pair of combo taillight and blinker LEDs. [Guzzi Motobox]

Honda CB450 by Scott Loyet There’s something special about hobby builds, and the blood, sweat and tears that are poured into them. This tastefully stylish Honda CB450 cafe racer is Scott Loyet’s first build—a project that took him four years to complete, because he resolved to only work on it when he “felt like it.” And it’s a pretty remarkable first effort.

Scott picked up the 1973 CB450 around the same time that his friend, Cory, also started working on a 70s-model CB.

“Cory has been my ‘Yoda’ throughout this project,”says Scott, “a man who has been around engines and motors all his life. My dad was a grease monkey, and I always admired the way he could fix anything on our family cars—and frankly, anything around the house, including hair dryers!”

“With no mechanical experience and new time on my hands since my kids had gotten older, I embarked on ripping apart my first bike. As my dad said to me, ‘you learn more from your mistakes’ and I learned A LOT. With parts and assistance from not only Cory, but also Dime City Cycles, Common Motor Collective and lots of YouTube videos, I was able to get over the finish line.”

Scott first stripped the bike down, then sent a bunch of parts off for fresh powder coating. The engine was refreshed with new valves and top end gaskets, and is now hooked up to Mikuni V32 carbs with velocity stacks from Speed Moto. Sparck Moto supplied a new wiring harness, and Scott installed an electronic ignition, new coils and plugs, a rebuilt starter, a Lithium-ion battery and a new regulator and rectifier.

Scott refreshed the front forks, but replaced the rear shocks with a new pair of Progressive units. The brakes were rebuilt, and the wheels re-laced with stainless spokes from Buchanan’s. Up top are new bars with wrapped Trip Machine Co. grips, and new dials. And all the lighting’s been replaced with LED units.

Scott had help along the way. CJ at Pullman Fabrications handled the custom battery box, rear loop and frame reinforcements, and built the new exhaust headers, which are connected to Lossa Engineering mufflers. Aaron at Pleasant Hill Auto Body massaged the fuel tank so that it’d transition with the seat better, Brian Jennings handled paint and Armand’s Auto Upholstery covered the seat.

“This bike was therapy for me,” says Scott, “with endless hours cleaning, shining and building. In the end, it is a tribute to my dad and an heirloom for my son or daughter.” [Images by Shirley DeFrancisci]

Harley-Davidson Sporster 883 by Minority Custom At a glance, this 2000-model Sportster 883 from Indonesia’s Minority Custom doesn’t break any major new ground. But it is very pretty and extremely tidy—impressive, when you consider that it started out as a wreck.

“’Simplicity is beauty’ is what our garage strives to show in our designs,” explains shop boss, Jonathan Evan. “We found this motorbike in a dull and damaged condition. Some parts of the engine were leaking and broken, oil was everywhere, and it had malfunctioning rear brakes and broken pistons.”

Minority rebuilt the Sporty inside and out, making a number of changes along the way. The crew wanted to give it a slight chopper stance—so they stretched the front forks and swapped the front wheel for a 21” hoop. There’s a solid 16” rear wheel at the back, hooked up to a custom-made sprocket.

Next, the OEM fuel tank was cut-and-shut to shrink it, and to make it sit tighter on the Harley’s backbone. Behind it is a custom leather seat, and behind that, a hand-made mini sissy bar that adds a touch of chopper sass, without going overboard.

Up front, tucked under the standard-issue Sportster headlight nacelle, is a smaller-than-stock light mounted on a custom-made bracket; a neat touch that most eyes won’t notice. The handlebars are one-offs too, as are the stainless steel slash-cut exhausts.

Top marks to Minority for the lush color scheme too—the frame’s been done in turquoise, with some green hues mixed in on the bodywork, and a smattering of chrome. The tank bears the shop’s own unique take on the typical Harley eagle motif, and was completely executed by hand. [Minority Custom | Images by Val Willson]

Royal Enfield Continental GT 650 by XTR Pepo A number of custom builders have already shown that Royal Enfield’s new generation Continental GT 650 is ripe for remodeling. But in the hands of the mad scientist Pepo Rosell, it’s really come alive.

This 2019-model Continental GT 650 is sporting a number of signature XTR Pepo touches—not least of all its heavy endurance racing vibe and protruding headlights. They’re mounted just forward of a custom fairing, which in turn sits on custom brackets.

Tucked behind are a CNC-machined top yoke from Riga Billet Parts and XTR Pepo clip-ons. The quick-throttle and right switches are from Domino, the brake master cylinder is a Brembo item, the clutch assembly is from a Suzuki GSX-R, and the levers are CNC-machined XTR Pepo parts. There’s also a new oil temperature gauge, and foot pegs and controls from K-Speed in Taiwan.

The custom fiberglass fuel tank lightly mimics the original design, but has a transparent strip on the side for checking levels, and an aluminum filler cap from ACC Endurance. The solo seat is Pepo’s design too, and the subframe’s been modified to match it.

Pepo replaced the rear shocks with new ones from YSS, swapped the 18” wheels for 17s, and shod them with Continental Road Attack tires. The exhaust headers have been shortened and now exhale through a pair of Turbokit megaphones.

Elsewhere, Pepo’s added LED turn signals, a custom license plate support, and a CNC-machined chain tensioner and sprocket cover from Riga Billet Parts. Artenruta handled the cheeky red livery—the perfect finishing touch for this rapid-looking Royal Enfield. [XTR Pepo | Images by Belen Piqueras]

The new Moto Guzzi V100 Mandello No, you’re not looking at a modern reinterpretation of the iconic Yamaha TDM850. This is the new Moto Guzzi V100 Mandello—a brand new ‘tall rounder’ with a brand new motor, that’ll make it’s official debut at EICMA in November.

Moto Guzzi have revealed nothing more than images and a teaser video [below] that desperately wants to remind you that the marque’s logo has an eagle in it. But there are a few dead giveaways and easy speculations. The engine looks to be all-new, with liquid cooling and an assumed capacity of 1,000 cc, and power is still directed via a shaft drive.

The video also reveals air channels on the fairing that open and close, and a windshield that moves up and down. It’s not clear whether these will operate automatically or not, but we’ve seen the term “active aerodynamics” bandied about, so make of it what you will.

Guzzi specialists Classic Co. either have inside info or are master speculators. They’ve pointed out a large airbox where the tank would go, an under seat fuel tank, and a four-valve-per-cylinder engine layout that can be bumped to 1,300 cc and used in a wide variety of applications. They’ve also cleverly noticed that the air intakes sit above the cylinder heads, and the exhaust ports below, unlike Guzzi’s current V-twins.

Looking at the red and green bikes that Guzzi have shown, it’s also clear that the V100 Mandello will most likely come in two models. Both are sporting Brembo brakes, but the green version [above] also has Öhlins suspension at both ends.

Overall, we’re digging the slightly 80s aesthetic, and it looks like it’d be a fun ride—as long as it delivers enough power in a decent weight class. Color us curious. [Moto Guzzi]

[deliayi]

Long story short, I’ve never been the biggest fan of Royal Enfield motorcycles, even though I learned to ride on one. Sure, it was big, burly and entirely different from the rest of the econo-commuters available in India when I was coming of age, but that wasn’t saying much. When it came time to buying my first bike – a critical time of flux for me personally – it was a toss-up between a Machismo and the fast, dangerous, economically suicidal RD350. With all that was going on in my life at the time, I didn’t want to compromise. I wanted what I wanted. I bought the Yamaha, met a girl, married her, met many credit cards, spent them all on the bike and twenty years later, the story continues. Well, mostly.

The Meteor 350 that I’ve been riding is the successor to the Thunderbird, which was by all accounts, a great success for Royal Enfield. To me, however, it was a bit awkward, pretending to be something it was not – a proper cruiser. From the spy shots that have been floating around the Internet, the Meteor looked much the same, but I’m happy to say that it isn’t. Not by a long shot. Unlike previous models from the legendary manufacturer, the Meteor only borrows an old marque; everything else is quite new.

Royal Enfield is cool (again?)

The myth, aura and credit due to Royal Enfield motorcycles, frankly, are a product of fortuity. The Bullet tugs at the heartstrings because it has always been there. It has endured nearly unchanged for half a century, and even the most Vulcan of rational thinkers would succumb to nostalgia when talking about that old 350 or 500 their uncle/friend/lover had at some point. But in the last decade or so, there’s been a sea-change in the way the company looks at, and projects itself. Walk into a Royal Enfield showroom and it feels like a lifestyle brand. The apparel and gear are carefully curated, and go with the ethos of their retro/classic motorcycles. As does the dapper CEO, who made the pitch for the new bike in a cinematic video shot while he rode the bike in bright red gloves and boots. The film too had the right tone, look and messaging. It feels aspirational, not agrarian.

That’s not to say that RE has gone so far upmarket as to lose touch with the machismo that they so incite. On my way home with the bike, I was accosted by two lorry and one rickshaw driver, all of whom knew that this was the Meteor and it was to be launched on the sixth of November. Enfield comms department: take a bow.

The Meteor 350 is an all-new motorcycle

Knowing Royal Enfield’s history, it is hard to stress this enough. The company is steeped in tradition, and that can hold things back against the march of progress. But time carries on, and with it have come many sweeping differences in the new motorcycle. The Meteor uses a new frame, an entirely new engine, new switchgear, lighting, ergonomics and tech. India’s strict BS6 emissions norms have meant tectonic shifts in the Indian automotive space, and 2-wheelers are no exception. The new 349cc motor forms a strong base for what is likely to be a raft of future motorcycles. Gone are pushrods, replaced with a single overhead camshaft. Primary drive is now geared, there’s a balancer shaft to keep things smooth and the gearbox is slick and traditional (with a shifter on the left side).

The frame has two down-tubes now, cradling the motor, but not quite. The engine is not a stressed member of the chassis. Suspension is traditional, but beefy. 41mm forks up front, with twin shocks at the back. The rider triangle is laid back, with forward-set footpegs that put your weight roundly on your bum, and the torso in a tall, commanding position.

If you don’t know what all this means, think of it this way: the old Enfields felt like a coalition government, while the Meteor 350 feels more like a benevolent dictatorship. Things are tight and run together as a unit. It feels like any other motorcycle, with no excuses needed about ‘character’.

A word about tech

As a (mostly) tech journalist, this was the biggest surprise to me. Royal Enfield has supplied a secondary display unit called the ‘Tripper’ on all variants of the Meteor 350. The screen serves as a turn-by-turn navigation unit when paired with your smartphone. It is excellent. Traditionally, I expect very little in terms of tech from an automotive manufacturer. They just seem tone-deaf most of the time. Not so with the Tripper. It is excellent in execution, and as RE is at pains to explain, provides only the information you need and nothing more.

Once you plot a route in the Royal Enfield smartphone app – which uses Google Maps as a base – you simply punch ‘Navigate’ and turn-by-turn directions are displayed in the little pod to the left of the main console. Arrows indicate the direction of your route, and supplementary, minimal info informs you of lane suggestions. The routing is smart enough to let you know specifically when to take the road below the flyover and not climb it. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve wanted to mix laxative in the KTM watercooler for their garbage navigation.

This is very, very new for the Royal Enfield we know. Considering that this is a first attempt, and it gets so much right, I’m excited to see what they do next!

The Meteor 350 looks like an old motorcycle

The design of the Meteor is far too similar to that of the outgoing Thunderbird series. In fact, all the spy shots over the past few months made it look like a sticker job more than a new motorcycle. While the lines are more refined, I think Royal Enfield perhaps missed an opportunity to make this otherwise fresh motorcycle stand out.

A cursory glance hides so much that’s new. The double down-tube frame, for instance, is easily missed. The side profile is very familiar, as is the characteristic shape of the frame. It is clearly intentional, and in this case, very conservative. The rake is a degree tighter and the rear mudguard quite thick, giving the impression of a stubby, squashed motorcycle, not the laid-back cruiser vibe they’re selling.

One must give it to them for attention to detail, however. Everything does flow quite nicely. I was particularly impressed with the rider’s view. The handlebar grips are retro, as are the clutch and brake levers. Even the console, while a hybrid analogue/digital unit, doesn’t look out of place. Royal Enfield is quite proud of their rotary toggle switches as you’d have had on old British motorcycles. It just doesn’t work as well on the left side for the passing switch. More on that latter. All in all, impressive once you pay attention, as the company hopes their faithful will.

The Meteor 350 goes like a modern motorcycle

... or a close approximation of one, considering what it is. Sticking to its heritage of making a tried-and-tested 350cc motor, Royal Enfield has taken very calculated steps into 2020 with this venerable warhorse. To pass BS6 legislation, the motor now uses a modern, traditional valvetrain and a catcon to keep the smoke clean. They’ve even managed to retain some (but not all) of the iconic thump that one expects of a Bullet variant.

On the go, things feel tight, cohesive. The front and rear aren’t telling your mind different things at the same time. Twist and go, really. I found the Meteor 350 to be exceptional in the city, betraying none of its 191kg wet weight. The fuel injection feels accurate, not lean and edgy, so your right wrist is in harmony with the progress of the bike. It feels light, almost nimble in traffic, and the suspension makes short work of rough roads. The general consensus seems to be that the Meteor feels stiff to aid handling, but this was not my experience. The 19” front wheel adds to it’s rough road readiness.

The 20-odd horsepower propelling this mass won’t deliver relaxed triple-digit cruising, but the 27Nm of torque ensures that you never really want for extra poke in the city. Overtakes and launches from traffic lights are now possible, not just noisy. The engine does start running out of steam past 100kmph so while it’s going to be better than its older 350cc brethren, it’s still not a fast mile-muncher. And most will tell you that it isn’t supposed to be. As a relaxed highway cruiser, it will work fine, I think, especially two-up.

The new motor will surprise you with its refinement more than its performance. The primary balancer shaft ensures a surprisingly vibe-free experience, even as the revs rise and you go faster. This should make for a more comfortable long-hauler, since your hands and feet will tingle less than on earlier Royal Enfield motorcycles. It’s nowhere as smooth as their twins, however. Brakes are okay. The discs are a generous size and get the job done, but feel is lacking from the front. It does its thing but conveys little. The ABS is dual-channel, so no pinching paisas here.

There are some compromises for form against function on the Meteor. The switchgear is wonderfully retro, but you need your thumb to flash your high beam. This means you can’t honk and flash at the same time, something many do for extra safety. The levers too have this period look to them, but they’re not kind on thin fingers like mine. And while the plush seat feels comfortable at first try, with forward-set footpegs, there is no chance of taking any weight onto your legs. Spotted a nasty pothole too late? Get off the brakes and brace for spinal compression. Your back will take the brunt of impact right through your tailbone. I heard this feedback on more than one occasion, but it’s part of the whole foot-forward cruising design. It’s a thing. It’s just not the ideal thing.

The Meteor 350 can be specifically yours

Available in three variants: Fireball, Stellar and Supernova, the bikes are identical save for paint schemes and accessories. Ah, the accessories. So. Many. Accessories. Royal Enfield offers the top variant with a windshield and pillion backrest, and you can pick from no less than six accessory mufflers, each with a different sound and look. No more raiding the aftermarket for loud (illegal) exhaust units, which can be a liability in some states with aggressive policing. Thankfully, the excellent ‘Tripper’ navigation system is standard across variants.

Apart from the Interceptor 650, there isn’t another Royal Enfield motorcycle I’d rather ride than the Meteor 350. It’s a nice, rewarding ride with few compromises. I’d just as quickly jump onto it for a short trip around town as my KTM. For longer journeys, the only thing holding me back would be its lack of speed.

The Meteor 350 is based on an all-new platform, one that will be the base of many future models. Starting at Rs 1.76 lac, buyers can now comfortably indulge their Royal Enfield fantasies, without making too many excuses to their friends who ride bikes that start every single time. The smiles and appreciation from lorry drivers are free.

[yourstellablog-blog1]

How to Adjust Your New Mountain Bike

Before you bounce on your pristine Mountain bicycle, you should make sure it's legitimately set up. Riding with parts in under ideal positions can give you sore knees, arms, bears and back muscles. You'll have a vastly improved riding knowledge whether to pursue the straightforward advances sketched out in this article.

Before you begin: If you obtained your bicycle from a bicycleorbit.com, you can take it to any search for 30 minutes of free setup time. On the off chance that you purchased your bicycle from another quality bicycle shop, they should offer a comparable administration.

Ensure you have the correct instruments for the activity: Most alterations should be possible with a standard bicycle multi-apparatus. To complete a legitimate activity fixing things back up, however, you need a torque wrench. That is particularly valid for carbon segments. Some of the time determined torque settings are stepped on a part; if not, counsel the segment producer's site.

Your bicycle may alter in an unexpected way: If you're uncertain about how to do any of these systems, head for your neighborhood bicycle shop.

Modifying Saddle Height

To modify saddle tallness, you need an approach to hold the bicycle upstanding while you jump on. One alternative is to have a companion face you, straddle the front haggle the handlebar. You can likewise incline toward a tree, divider or a workbench.

Your objective: You need a 25-to 30-degree twist in your knee. Check this by putting the chunks of your feet on the pedals and extending one leg to the base of the pedal stroke.

Step by step instructions to modify: Use an Allen wrench (or speedy discharge switch if that is the thing that verifies the seatpost) to slacken the cover jolt and slide the seatpost up or down. Ensure the "base addition mark" carved on the seatpost isn't appearing after you're finished. In the wake of confirming that the seat is at the right stature, retighten the fastener screw to the predetermined torque or retighten the snappy discharge switch.

Modifying Saddle Position and Angle

Seat Position

Your front/back position objective: To check this, you need a basic plumb bounce—a string with a weight (like a metal nut) tied on the end. With your seat at the correct tallness and one sell in the 3 o'clock position, focus the wad of your foot over the pivot of that hawk.

Dangle the plumb weave off the front of your knee with the goal that the weight dangles simply over your foot. On the off chance that the seat is in the correct position, a fanciful line that keeps running along the plumb sway's string will cut up the hub on your bicycle pedal. For an increasingly exact check, have somebody remain beside you confirm this.

Seat Angle

Your edge objective: You need a dimension saddle. A tilted seat can cause hip and back torment and expect you to use vitality to keep from sliding off the front or back. To be exact you can utilize a straightforward air pocket level to check this.

The most effective method to alter situate position and point: Loosen the Allen jolts verifying the brace that holds the rails under your seat (on various seats the cinch configuration may shift). Slide the seat forward or in reverse while at the same time turning it into a dimension position.

When the seat is repositioned, retighten the jolts and recheck things with the plumb bounce and level. In the wake of checking that everything is the place it ought to be, retighten the seat to the predefined torque.

Modifying Brake Levers

Getting brake switches set up accurately assists with your response time and control, and it helps keep you in a riding position that is pleasantly adjusted when you're braking.

Changing Brake-Lever Angle

Your objective: When the switches are at the right edge, your wrists will be straight. On the off chance that your wrists need to turn up to snatch the brake switch, you will in general lean excessively far forward as you ride. In the event that your wrists need to pivot down to get the brake switch, you will in general drop your elbows and lose security.

Step by step instructions to modify: Loosen the Allen jolt on the brake switch clip and pivot it until the switches are at a 45° edge. At that point retighten the jolt to the predetermined torque.

Altering Brake-Lever Position on the Handlebar

While numerous riders like to have three fingers on their hold and one on the brake switch, most plate brakes are intended to be controlled with a two-finger switch. That leaves two fingers and a thumb to solidly grasp the handlebar as you arrange rough territory.

Your objective: To set up a two-finger switch, you need your center finger to settle against the bended end of the switch.

Step by step instructions to modify: Adjusting switch position on the bar is straightforward. Essentially extricate the Allen jolt on the brake switch brace and slide the clasp internal or outward. At that point recheck switch arrangement. At the point when it's the place you need, basically retighten the jolt to the predetermined torque.

Altering Brake Lever Reach

The objective here is to have the peripheral knuckle(s) of your braking finger(s) supporting the brake switch. In the event that you need to overextend, you lose responsiveness on the grounds that your hands need to move off the hold when you brake hard. In the event that the switch is excessively near the grasp, you lose influence—and halting force—when you press.

This is one change where steps regularly shift from bicycle to bicycle. Some fundamental bicycles don't offer achieve modification. For the most part, however, you turn a solitary screw on the brake switch that draws the switch nearer or further from the handlebar hold. At the point when it's at the ideal position, you're done—no torque wrench is required.

Modifying Your Shifters

This inconspicuous change is especially a matter of individual inclination. What's more, you probably won't have much space to move your shifters after your brake switches have been appropriately set up. (Note: If you haven't effectively balanced your brake switches, at that point do that first since that is the more significant change.

Your objective: You need to abstain from pivoting your wrists when you move. Spot your hands in a characteristic position on the bar grasps, with fingers supporting the brake switches. Next verify whether you can work the move switches serenely with your thumbs.

The most effective method to alter: Shift switches change a similar path as brake switches: by means of the Allen jolt that holds their clips. Release the jolts and move the shifters, bending them as well as sliding them internal or outward until they achieve your most open to moving position. At that point retighten the Allen rushes in the clasps to the predefined torque.

Changing Tire Inflation

In contrast to a large number of the other setup changes, swelling is something to check before each ride. Changing air temperatures influence tire weight, and tires will in general lose a little measure of weight after some time.

Your objective: Generally, you need to run your tire weight as low as could be expected under the circumstances. Prescribed tire PSI, expressed as a range, is found on the sidewall of your tire. While you would prefer not to chance a squeeze level (in a tubed tire) or having your tire mutilate too seriously in a turn, running a low PSI offers discernible execution points of interest. It will give a gentler, all the more lenient ride and give you better footing.

Instructions to alter: The apparatuses required are clear: You need a weight check and a siphon that fit your valve type (Presta or Schrader). Most checks and siphons adjust to fit the two sorts. You can likewise purchase a different valve connector to get the right fit.

Fundamental Suspension Adjustments

A key change on air-spring suspensions is setting "droop," which is the sum that your fork or back stun packs when you sit on the bicycle. Setting list accurately dials in your suspension's accessible scope of movement. List likewise influences how cruelly or easily your suspension responds to knocks.

In the event that you have curl spring full suspension rather, you may have a preload alteration dial over your fork. Setting it involves individual inclination. Expanding preload hardens your ride, which can increment accelerating effectiveness and limit energy. On the off chance that things feel excessively brutal, however, you can diminish preload to mollify your ride.

[lindafrancois]

A Beginner’s Guide to Biking: How to Cycle for Fitness

Let’s get you up and rolling on a bicycle! 

Whether you’re using it for exercise or transportation, biking is a great way to stay active and explore the world around you.

That’s why we encourage it in our Online Coaching Program when we discuss fun exercises! 

Want to train in a way that doesn’t suck? Learn more about NF Coaching!

Here’s what we’ll cover in today’s guide:

What are the benefits of cycling?

The 6 different types of cyclists

How to buy a bike

How to set up your bicycle

What gear to purchase for biking

What to bring on your bike ride

How to ride a bike

How to improve your bike riding skills

Bike riding etiquette for newbies

It’s time to hit the road (Next steps)

Let’s roll!

What Are the Benefits of Cycling?

There are a lot of excellent reasons to take up riding bikes:

It’s a great and healthy way to move from point A to point B.

It’s free – no gas to put in, no parking spaces to pay for.

It’s low impact on your body. There are no jarring-impact moments like with running.

It’s a great place to start with exercise. Sit on bike. Pedal. Done.

It’s fun!

Cycling has a magical ability to be whatever the rider wants it to be. 

Fun, challenging, scary, romantic, social, silly… you name it and there’s a type of cycling for it. You can even change what type you are doing to suit your mood on any given day, which is why most avid cyclists end up with several different bikes.

Some Rebels in the NF Coaching Program have even used cycling as a tool to help them get in shape, as demonstrated by Kyle here:

Note: Kyle also switched up his diet for his result.

The world can use more cyclists, so I’m stoked you’re interested in getting started. 

The 6 Different Types of Cyclists

Let’s spend a few minutes thinking about what type of rider you’d like to be.

The below list is not mutually exclusive, mind you. You can flip back and forth, contradict yourself, or mix and match them to suit your own needs.

#1) Mountain Biker

No one loves the outdoors as much as these guys do. If you’d rather ditch the pavement for a trail, mountain biking may be for you.

#2) Roadie

As the name would suggest, these riders are going to be found pedaling down your street. They often wear bright colors to make them easily seen by commuters. If you go this route, you can pretend like you have a sweet superhero costume to wear!

You can take this idea too far. 

 #3) Track 

Track cycling is a racing sport where riders zoom around a velodrome. If you’re a beginner, this is probably too advanced for you, but something to think about as you gain more cycling experience. 

#4) Triathlete

A triathlon is a multisport race where participants run, swim, and bike their way to the finish line. They’re not a bad event to train for since you have to condition yourself for a few different sports.

There are many triathlon events designed for beginners, some of which you can check out right here. 

#5) BMXer

Generally when people do lots of tricks on their bike, it’s a BMX bike. 

BMX is an abbreviation for bicycle motocross or bike motocross and were originally modeled after dirtbikes (minus the engine). They’re popular with kids, but also good for adults who are looking to perform a stunt or two. 

#6) Casual Rider

This is, in my opinion, the easiest way to get started.Just do whatever you want to on a bike and enjoy yourself in the process. 

Sounds simple, right? It is!

How to Buy a Bike

Truth be told, the best bike for you to buy is whatever one you like the best.

I think it’s wise to get a bike shop’s help in buying a bike that fits you. Even though you can adjust your bicycle to fit (more on this next section), it could still be potentially too large or small. Here’s how to find a bike shop in your area.

If you are going to select a bike on your own, you’ll want to consider its height:

If the bike has a horizontal tube, you should have about one to two-inch clearance from your crotch to the top tube, when standing over the bike.

If the bike has a sloping top tube, you’ll want at least two-inch clearance.

Shown here from REI’s guide to bike fitting:

Now, bikes do cost money. Expect to spend a few hundred bucks minimum at your bike shop. You don’t have to spend thousands, but you’ll have more fun on a decent bike than a heavy, crappy one from a department store.

If you must buy as cheaply as possible, in my opinion, most people are best served with a steel-framed 80’s road bike. They’re cheap, nearly indestructible, and easy to find on Craigslist.

Don’t be afraid to make counter offers and haggle a bit. 

You can also search the bike on Bicycle Blue Book to make sure you’re getting a fair deal. 

If you do buy a used road bike, steer away from 27” wheels, since 26” have become standard and will be easier to replace.  

Lots of people get mountain bikes for their first bike, and I think it’s a mistake unless you plan on riding through dirt. They are heavy and slow because they’re meant for trail riding on mountains. There’s also a cheaper bike option called bikesdirect.com. They sell off-brand frames with name brand components, and seem to have good customer service. Remember: get the bike you like. If you like it you’ll ride it. Keep that in mind as you’re reading the flame wars and conflicting advice. After all, it’s just bikes. It ain’t rocket surgery.

How to Setup Your Bicycle

While a professional at a bike shop can be a lifesaver when it comes to proper setup, you can totally do it yourself too.

#1) Saddle Height

A “good enough” way to determine proper seat height is the heel-to-pedal method. It might help to have someone hold your bike while doing this.

Take a seat, then have one pedal go completely down in the six o’clock position. Your knee should be completely straight here when making contact to this low pedal. 

If your knee is bent, you need to increase the saddle height. If you lose contact with the pedal, lower your seat. 

#2) Saddle Angle

For the most part, you’re going to want your seat angled so it’s parallel to the ground. Try this first, then you can adjust it slightly if you find different positions more comfortable. 

#3) Handlebar Reach

While handlebar reach can be a bit more personal, in general you don’t want to strain yourself to control the bike. 

When seated, you should easily be able to reach the brakes and shifters. Your elbows should have a slight bend, not locked. Adjust your seat first, get that dialed in, then adjust the bars themselves for your ideal setting.

What Gear to Purchase for Biking

After initially purchasing a bike, there are a few other things you should consider. 

#1) Helmet – In my opinion, it is imperative to own and wear a helmet when cycling. I don’t think it should be a law that everyone has to, but I think everyone should of his own volition anyway.

What kind of helmet should you buy? Giro, Bell, and Specialized all make good helmets. Try a few on and get a bike shop’s help with how it should fit.

#2) U-Lock – One of the most awesome things about riding bikes to get places is that you don’t have to park a car. You can just ride right up to the place, lock your bike, and go inside. You will need a lock if you’d like your bike to be there when you come out, though. Read up on locking strategy here.

#3) Blinky Lights – Get yourself a good set of blinky lights for your bike. 

I like the Blackburn Flea set, but also own the Spok LED light set, and the Planet Bike Superflash rear light. All are fine choices.

Outside has the unmitigated gaul of getting dark without our consent. It’s wise to have lights in these cases, so that you can be as visible as possible on the roadway.

#4) Clippy Shoes – If you’re going to ride often, eventually it’s wise to switch to clipless pedals and shoes. If you’re worried that they’ll make you fall over, rest assured. You will definitely fall over in them at least once. It’s called a zero mile per hour fall, and it’s a rite of passage. It’s also completely worth it.

#5) Lycra – If you’re doing any amount of riding at all, I recommend getting yourself a pair of bibs. Cycling shorts are nice too (they both have a chamois) but bib shorts are the ultimate in comfort.

What to Bring on Your Bike Ride

  When setting off on a ride, carry these things: 

A spare tube

Tire levers 

A CO2 inflate 

A Master Link 

A spare cylinder of CO2

$20. 

Everything except the tube fits nicely into a little canvas bag that can slip into a center jersey pocket, which eliminates the need for a seat bag, which has a tendency to fall apart after a few hundred miles.

Don’t buy an expensive bike tool to carry on your rides. Any repair you can’t do with the above kit is a ride ender. Take a cab with the $20 instead and spend your tool budget on nice tools to keep at home if you want to wrench on your bike.

Also don’t buy a frame pump or mini pump – they don’t work well at all.  Get a floor pump for home and carry CO2 with you.

How to Ride a Bike

Turn pedals.

Don’t hit anything or fall off.

Kidding.

Here’s exactly how to ride a bike:

Let’s explain some more tips for smooth bike riding:

#1) Use your rear brake to check your speed and your front one only if you really want to stop. If you grab a handful of front brake on a modern bike it might become a catapult.

#2) Remember when I said clippy shoes were worth it? It’s because they allow you to apply power throughout the whole revolution of the pedal, and to use your whole leg and butt to apply said power. They’re awesome.

#3) Keep in mind also that it’s more efficient to spin than to mash. This means that you’ll be able to deliver more power for longer if you ride in a smaller, easier gear at higher cadence (RPM) than in a bigger, harder gear at slower cadence. Ideal cadence is said to be 90rpm or so, which is the exact tempo of Cake’s song The Distance. 

One foot should make a revolution for each beat of the song, or in other words, your foot is a quarter note. Your other foot will be offset, of course, so as a pair your feet will play eighth notes. And you didn’t even know you were a musician!

#4) Your body should be pretty much still when you’re riding. Your knees should be in line between your hip and ankle, not out as if you’re trying to climb a pole:

How to Improve Your Bike Riding Skills

Cycling is beautiful and amazing, but the best cycling is also social.

Having some friends who are into it will help keep you into it. Mind you, it is ten buh-jillion times easier to meet people who already like things you want to do than to convert people you already like into doing something new. 

So, go do your local group ride. There’s guaranteed to be a beginner one near you that runs out of a bike shop. Ask at the bike shop once you feel comfortable returning. 

Yay for socializing!

You can also check out Meetup for a riding group. 

Bike Riding Etiquette for Newbies

There’s a tendency for new riders to want to express their liberation from the metal cage of the automobile through a certain free-spirited attitude toward traffic laws.

Please don’t do this.

Whatever we do while riding in traffic will be remembered by every driver who sees us and counted either for or against cycling as a whole in that driver’s mind.

Many new riders adopted a Me-Vs-Cars attitude, and it’s always a mistake. 

Figure out what the laws regarding cyclists on the road are in your area and follow them always!  Google “bicycling laws + [ your state ]”

You’ll also have a much easier time in traffic when you ride like traffic.

It’s Time to Hit the Road (Next Steps)

Above all, remember that cycling is a fun, social activity.

Wave to other riders. Say hello to them when you pass them. They’re nice folks! Well, except “serious” roadies, of course, but only other roadies listen to them!

Okay, that’s about it for this guide.

Find a bike, wear a helmet, and get ready to roll:

If you want to continue your journey with Nerd Fitness, there are three great options for you. 

Option #1) If you want a professional coach in your pocket, who can do video form checks, provide feedback, and adjust your workouts based on the equipment you have available, check out our Online Coaching Program! 

Some of our clients are avid cyclists and their coaches design workouts around their biking schedule:

Our coaching program changes lives. Learn how!

2) Exercising at home and need a plan to follow? Have questions you need answered? Join Nerd Fitness Prime!

Nerd Fitness Prime is our premium membership program that contains at-home exercise routines, live-streamed workouts with NF Coaches, a supportive online community, group challenges, and much more! 

Learn more about Nerd Fitness Prime!

Option #3) Become part of the Rebellion! We need good people like you in our community, the Nerd Fitness Rebellion.

Sign up in the box below to enlist and get our Rebel Starter Kit, which includes all of our “work out from home” guides.

Get your Nerd Fitness Starter Kit

The 15 mistakes you don’t want to make.

Full guide to the most effective diet and why it works.

Complete and track your first workout today, no gym required.

Have fun out there, and ride safe, cycling friend!

-Steve

###

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A Beginner’s Guide to Biking: How to Cycle for Fitness published first on https://dietariouspage.tumblr.com/

[albatrossbikes]

After testing our last DIAero P-03 prototype gravel frame for a little over half a year, we decided that for the upcoming Cyclocross (CX) season we would be better served by developing our own race-specific CX frame. By working with our CX racing friends, we were able to settle on a geometry and design that we feel will benefit the racer in any event that they should enter while also creating a bike that would be just at home outside of a competition setting.

Initial Frame Design

Starting from the geometry for the DIAero P-03, we realized that we needed a frame with less reach in the frame for a longer stem, a touch less seat to handlebar drop to increase stability and improve off-road handling, and to tweak the head angle to make the bike more eager to dive into the tight corners of a CX course. What we landed on for our fit was a reach of 385mm and a stack height of 566mm which, at 30mm taller, and 20mm shorter than the DIAero P-03 frame would fit the needs of CX racing well.

Additionally, by altering the head angle from 70 deg to 72 deg, we were also able to make the frame quicker steering as well. To prevent the head angle change from feeling too drastic, we also increased the BB drop by 5mm and lengthened the stem by 20mm to add in a touch more stability and slow the steering inputs. The lower BB does result in less ground clearance which will make off-camber pedaling and deep mud sections trickier to negotiate but for the courses we tend to race in California, this should not prove to be an issue.

With the basic geometry set, we then continued with the detailed structural design of the frame. At this stage, we chose incorporate our distinctive dropped chainstays into the final design. This feature was proven in the RHTP-01 to provide additional traction in the rear of the rigid frame while demonstrating notable lateral stability when pedaling out of the saddle. Increasing the traction through the aggressive stay design is of great importance to the rider when combined with the skinnier cyclocross tires as the bike will no-longer exhibit a tendency to skip and spin the rear tire when accelerating over rough, choppy terrain.

For the standards chosen, we once again went with the superior (in our opinion) T47 standard shell at the 68mm width. We have already tried the internal bearing T47 standard on the DIAero P-03 frame with the 86mm width and are interested in testing the 68mm wide version for durability as well as ease of manufacture. We also chose to run the now-atypical standard QR disc spacing. This was chosen for us to be able to use our collection of older wheelsets as well as enabling faster wheel swaps on race day.

Frame Construction

As with all of our frames built to this point, we put the frame together utilizing traditional fillet brazing techniques. While this does take longer to finish the frame, we prefer the resulting finish of large fillet and smooth transitions from tube to tube.

CXP-01 Seatstay Support

CXP-01 brake mount

The fillet brazing method also allowed us to add additional reinforcement to the thin section of the downtube where the seatstay bracing would join with the downtube. This bracing and reinforcement are critical to the structural integrity of the frame as we have discovered. When these tubes are not included, the force through the dropped stays is more than the long section of seat tube can handle and will cause the seat tube to bend.

Choosing other frame tubes, we settled on a thin 0.8/0.5/0.8 double butted top tube and downtube being used. This combined with the tapered and butted stays would result in a final frame weight of 2kg. While this is more than we would like for a CX frame, we are also only just beginning to explore what we can do to reduce the overall weight of the frame through tube choice and refinement of the design. We are quite certain that a sub 2kg frame using the unique seatstay configuration is possible.

Following the brazing of the frame, the fillets were then sanded smooth to provide a nice finish under the final layer of paint.

Finish Work and Final Build

The frame was then finished with a coat of gloss pink paint. As this is a prototype, we only used a spray can finish to save cost while still protecting the tubes from oxidization. Should we later decide to use this frame for longer than a single season, we will be able to easily sandblast the frame and switch to a more durable powdercoat.

The frame was then finished with a build kit from a build kit supplied from an earlier CX frame. This included carbon rims (19mm inner width) laced to a DT Swiss DT350 hubset and with Donnelly 33mm MXP tires and an 11-36T Sunrace Cassette. SRAM Force CX1 derailleur and levers, debadged Praxis crank with 42T chainring, and an FSA/Specialized cockpit would round out the parts bin build of our CXP-01 Prototype frame.

Cable-actuated hydraulic disc brakes from Yokozuma were a late addition to the build to replace a worn-out set of Avid BB7 mechanical disc brakes. We have found that over time, the BB7 brakes tend to lose their bite so we hope that running the bleed-less, cable-actuated hydraulic Yokozuna Motoko brakes will provide for a more positive and powerful brake feel.

After these photos were taken, we were able to sneak out for a bit of a shakedown ride and even though there are still a few aspects of the fit that need to be tweaked for optimal comfort, the overall feel of the bike is as we had hoped it would be. The supple rear triangle provided a lot of traction over the hardpacked surface of our local lunch loop and still accelerated with gusto when provided with some motivation. We will need to spend more time and a few races on the frame to properly evaluate whether or not the bike will be able to achieve all of our design goals.

Until next time: Ride Fast, Ride Far.

CXP-01 Frame Build

Quality rubber for easy rolling

CXP-01 chainstay and chain clearance with cable routing detail

CXP-01 headtube detail

CXP-01 driveside dropout

CXP-01 tapered top tube

CXP-01 seatpost cluster

CXP-01 branding

CXP-01 top tube

CXP-01 BB cluster details

CXP-01 rear triangle

CXP-01

CXP-01 raw frame

CXP-01 brake mount

CXP-01 Seatstay Support

CXP-01 frame tacked for final brazing

CXP-01 Frame Dimensions

CXP-01 New Frame Closeup After testing our last DIAero P-03 prototype gravel frame for a little over half a year, we decided that for the upcoming Cyclocross (CX) season we would be better served by developing our own race-specific CX frame.

[motosupply]

The 2020 Beta range!

Sierra BMW & Beta is proud to introduce the 2020 RR and RR-S models. These models are all new and represents a new generation for the RR and RR-S range. Counter-balanced 250 and 300! ALL-NEW 4 stroke engines, twin injection on the RR-S, ALL NEW chassis!

The 2020 range includes 8 different engine sizes: four 2-stroke (RR 125/200/250/300 cc) and four 4-stroke (RR-S 350/390/430/500 cc) engines that offer Beta customers an extremely wide selection of bikes to take on their next adventure.

Beta owns the phrase Rideability and the 2020 models continue this off-road experience with a slim, lightweight bike that is safe, reliable, and easy to ride while creating a riding experience like no other manufacturer can provide.

Major advances have been made by the Beta team of engineers these past twelve months including introducing a completely new engine design to the 4-stroke range, added smoothness to the 2-stroke engine, and an all new frame that boasts completely redesigned geometry and rigidity. The popular 200 RR Model returns as well for 2020.

Besides the all-new engines and frames, the sub-frame, tail section, seat, fuel tank, bodywork, and many other details are also all new coming together to provide the best looking and most friendly cockpit layout on the market.

Also new for 2020 is the ability for customers to order any RR or RR-S model straight from the factory with a 2" lower seat height over the stock models. These "lowboy" models have parts installed inside the front fork and rear shock to lower the seat height.

Beta USA's popular BYOB (Build Your Own Beta) program will continue for 2020. This program allows riders to custom build his or her new Beta to fit their special needs by allowing the addition of more than 400 accessories to their bike.

New features include:

Engine

4-stroke RR-S (350/390/430/500 cc):

-A complete redesign, with the aim of reducing the weight and bulk of moving parts, achieved by raising the clutch and moving the crankshaft back. Moving the center of gravity closer to the swingarm pivot makes for significantly better handling. An overall weight reduction of 2.2 lbs.

-A redesigned magnesium clutch cover, redeveloped to improve the oil flow into the clutch assembly more efficiently.

-Magnesium flywheel cover, redesignedin-line with the rest of the engine, now with a more functional and modern look.

-New water pump system that improves flow-rate and therefore the efficiency of the cooling system's ability to transfer heat, keeping average temperatures lower, improving performance, and providing a more simplified cooling hose system.

-Cylinder and head redesigned matched with the updated cooling system to lower engine temperatures.

-Twin Injectors improve performance and increase fuel mileage.

-Oil circuit redesigned to provide better heat transfer between oil and water in the front section of the crankcase in order to keep the oil temperature lower.

-Clutch with redesigned discs in a new material to ensure smoother and more modular gear shifting.

-Redesigned gearing, now shorter and lighter.

-New gearshift mechanism with lighter cam to improve shifting.

-Gearshift lever redesigned in line with the new engine and frame layout.

-Addition of a neutral sensor.

-Updated EFI mapping.

2-stroke (250/300 cc):

-Now with a counter-balancer to reduce vibration by increasing inertia and improving the power delivery curve. The counter-balancer improves the power delivery throughout the rpm range.

-Cylinder head redesigned (250 cc only) to improve torque at low rpm.

2-stroke (125 cc):

-New cylinder with modified exhaust port and diameters.

-New exhaust flange.

-New exhaust valve system and new boosters.

-New clutch cover with airpurging system operated by the modified clutch mechanism; modified oil inlet cap position to improve oil change time.

-New exhaust valve drive, opens at a different rate to improve power delivery.

-New expansion chamber provides broader power delivery.

These modifications to the 125 RR (derived straight from the 2019 Racing model) provide added torque at low rpm while greater power at the high revs, for increased performance across the entire power curve while at the same time, provides a bike that is easier to ride.

Chassis: (All RR and RR-S Models)

-All-New frame with redesigned geometry and rigidity for increased agility and stability. Weight is reduced and reliability boosted with the use of precision-cast components, while comfort is improved and vibration reduced thanks to new head bolts. The frame is also narrower at the base which improves handling over difficult sections and typical off-road tracks.

-Modified swingarm, now longer for the 4-stroke range and the 200 cc 2-stroke model, for better stability and traction.

-Completely redesigned tailpiece, greater strength to reduce breakage during off road riding, all filter box components and related accessories are now housed inside it (electrical components and oil reservoir for 2-strokes).

-New air filter boot.

-Air Filter mounting system, providing quicker and more accurate installation.

-Improved fork design compared to previous version, with new inner cartridge to lower the center of gravity providing the perfect level of plushness while also improving the action of square-edge impacts. Internal valving has been updated to work in-line with the new frame design.

-New rear shock absorber with:

-New top-out system, now a spring to improve grip and contact with the ground during hard braking.

-New longer shock bumper with more progressive compression. This ensures good protection of the buffer and improves bottoming resistance.

-New valving, to work in-line with the new frame.

-Cooling system with water hoses placed inside the frame and more efficient radiators. This improves heat transfer and allows engines to operate at lower temperatures even in the most extreme conditions.

-Larger capacity fuel tanks, of 2.4 US gallons for 4-strokes and 2.55 US gallons for 2-strokes. Besides providing greater range, the new fuel tanks improve ergonomics and ease-of-movement in the seat.

-Wider handlebars for greater control.

-Exhaust with new layout in line with the bike's new rear section.

-Side stand with bigger foot pad.

-New precision-cast footpegs that are better at shedding mud and teeth to increase boot grip.

-New chain guide, longer to suit new swingarm.

-New brake pedal, more robust and with larger bearings.

-Shorter 430/480 cc gearing compared to previous models.

Design

-Completely new superstructure (front cowl, front and rear fenders, ducts and fairings) that improves ergonomics and the operation of all related parts retaining the Italian design Beta is known for.

-Front fender with variable thickness geometry which reduces weight and increases rigidity.

-New tailpiece in techno-polymer.

-New tailpiece attachments in techno-polymer.

-New handlebar protector.

-Redesigned seat, more comfortable when moving about on the bike.

-New license plate bracket, lighter and with integrated handles.

-New silencer protector (excluding 125 cc).

-New digital instruments and instrument panel.

-New location for MAP switch

-Redesigned skid plate.

-New rear light and license plate bracket with integrated grab handles.

-New frame protectors.

Prices:

125 RR: $7999.00

200 RR $8699.00

250 RR $8799.00

300 RR $9199.00

350 RR-S $10,599.00

390 RR-S $10,699.00

430 RR-S $10,799.00

500 RR-S $10,899.00

*prices do not include sales tax, license, destination or other dealer fees.

Available:

RR 2 Stroke Models September

RR-S 4 Stroke Models November

In addition to the exciting new 2020 model announcement, Beta USA is proud to show off their new website! Found at www.betausa.com riders can now purchase their new Beta three ways, Stock unit, Stock + Upgraded Suspension, or the ever-popular BYOB.

[williamrichard-posts]

Basic Directions on How to Ride a Motorbike

For all of you who wonder concerning riding a bike yet don't know where to begin, this short article offers some directions on just how to ride a motorbike. However before you start-- as well as perhaps enter over your head-- please be particular you recognize precisely what riding a bike requires. You can not simply get on a motorcycle as well as ride off down the road - this is a surefire method of ending up in disaster. First, you have to examine your mindset, after that establish your capacities and, finally only after that, in fact ride a motorcycle.

  When you have established you have the proper mindset towards riding, namely, that it is possibly and also innately much more unsafe than driving an auto, after that you can deal with establishing your capacities. The method you do this is via a licensed instructor or course that supplies motorcycling riding lessons. Because class, you will find out the specific directions on just how to ride a motorcycle. The following is a brief review of the information you will certainly learn from such a class.

Rally Raid

To start with, you should install a bike before you can ride it. The way you do this is to come close to the motorcycle from the left side (the side that has the kickstand down). If the motorcycle is on a centerstand, do not attempt to mount it; instead, ask a knowledgeable biker to first put it on its kickstand. Next, understand the front brake (the lever on the ideal handlebar) strongly with your right-hand man, after that turn your right leg over the seat of the bike to the other side. When you are securely seated on the bike, release the brake, center the bike with your legs and also turn up the kickstand with your left foot.

  Make sure the motorbike is in neutral equipment by squeezing the clutch (the degree on the left handlebar) as well as changing the shifter (the level near the left footpeg) to neutral with your left foot (normally, neutral is one-half prepare from initial gear, the very bottom gear). Insert the trick and also begin the motorbike with the electric ignition switch. Allow the bike heat up, making use of the choke as essential (unless your motorbike is fuel-injected).

  To begin relocating, squeeze the clutch once more and also shift down to first equipment. As you gradually release the clutch, apply a little bit of throttle (by turning the ideal handlebar grasp toward you), and find the "friction area"-- the point where the bike is gradually progressing without the clutch fully engaged. You can remain in the friction zone to control your slow-speed riding, claim, in a parking area. Efficiently use even more throttle and fully release the clutch to get moving at real riding speeds. Once you are riding at a rate higher than regarding 5 mph, remember to make use of counter-steering, not steering, to guide the motorcycle.

  As soon as you get to the proper rate for the following gear, release the throttle, press the clutch and move up the next higher gear. Slowly launch the clutch as you use even more throttle. Remain to shift up into the proper gear as you speed up to freeway rates.

Motorcycle Roadbook

These are the fundamental guidelines on exactly how to ride a bike as well as get it up to highway rates. A future article will cover how to corner appropriately, and exactly how to reduce and quit! Believe it or otherwise, braking is really maybe your crucial ability to find out when riding a motorbike.

  Please keep in mind that the instructions on exactly how to ride a motorcycle supplied below are basic guidelines as well as are not suggested to change actual motorcycle training provided by a specialist in a classroom setup. They are merely offered to offer you insight on the technicians of riding a motorbike. Do not neglect to seek specialist instruction as you start on your trip of ending up being a motorbike motorcyclist.

[activahondabattery-blog]

COMPARISON: HONDA GRAZIA VS SUZUKI ACCESS 125 VS TVS NTORQ 125

love scooters. I go fast on them, they're super handy in almost every way and perhaps the highway is the only environment that defeats them. And off-road. And one has to with sheer speed and displacement and the other, suspension. While the Honda Activa rules their roost with authority on all counts, the Suzuki Access 125 has carved out a cozy little place for itself and it hasn't gone unnoticed. The excellent Honda Grazia arrived a few months ago with swish styling and a 125cc engine and now the TVS NTorq 125 is here as well. The Aprilia SR 125 is also a challenger though it isn't in this story directly. In any case, the SR125's fate is a bit sealed because it's priced so close to the SR150 that I cannot imagine who wouldn't just pay the difference and get the better scooter of the two in the first place. So. The 125cc scooter king is the Suzuki Access and its challengers are the Honda Grazia and the TVS NTorq 125. Let's have some fun, shall we?

which is the best scooty

Design, build quality and finish

Unlike motorcycles, the Honda Activa set such a high bar for overall quality that all the scooters that have followed it have been of a very high build and finish level in general. The ones that don't get telescopic fork front suspension tend to clatter over the bumps more, but at the end of the day, scooters in general are extremely well-made in India. The Suzuki Access 125 is exemplary on this count. The gloss of the paint, the fit of the panels... the closer you look, the better this Suzuki looks. The TVS NTorq 125 though, matches this move for move. And the Honda Grazia is no wilting lily either. This is how pitched battles should be fought I say! On the build and finish front, the Grazia feels perhaps a hair less well-built - in the sense that in five years it feels like it will have more rattles than the other two but it's a minimicronanomicron of a difference, to be honest.

Then comes the design. And Wow. What a difference! The Suzuki Access 125 plays the Honda Activa's game. It's unisex, sleek and meek in a uniquely Japanese-Indian way. It makes no enemies and there is no one I know who calls it the best looking scooter on Earth either. Suzuki could have been more adventurous with the new generation of the Access in theory but as the Honda Activa 5G demonstrates amply, don't fix what isn't broken is a powerful design philosophy for Indian products.

The Grazia looks sleek and modern, especially compared to all of the scooters Honda makes, including the Dio. The aggressive front apron is the busiest of all three and the side panels and the rear treatment also use the same combination of sharp creases, and taut curves to present a sleek, fast, fresh and modern stance.

But between the yellow colour and the high contrast body panels, the Ntorq is easily the sportiest scooter in design and it looks freshest as well as sharpest. I think some of this perception comes from the fact that the Grazia chooses a horizontal headlamp alignment and a wide apron versus the TVS that opts instead for a more vertical headlamp set in a narrower front apron. The kink and the lack of curves on the front mudguard, I think, adds to that sense of purpose for the TVS too.

Design is subjective and the build-finish levels are even. So I clearly prefer the sporty intent in the design of the Ntorq 125 to both of the others, but I'm going to call this even. And I will say this once again, choosing a vehicle based on its design shouldn't come from the road test, it should come from your aesthetic sensibility.

Features and convenience

In terms of feature set, all three scooters are very similar at the basic level. Let's tackle the three-four things that implies one at a time.

Floorboards are the primary storage area on a scooter and they get used more often than the underseat storage in the big picture. On this count, the Access has the largest one - it doesn't want to be a sporty scooter, remember? The Grazia comes next - it's a Honda. It presents the idea of sporty, but it doesn't want to be too sporty. The TVS is, naturally, the last on this count. It's a narrow footboard with the side front panels coming back inward as sporty scooter styling requires that further hems the footboard in.

The underseat storage is heavily used and here it flips all the way to the other side. I was carrying around a 10-litre bag, an insulated flask of water, a puffy jacket (compressible volume) and a fairly thick fleece pullover (non-compressible volume) for this test. The 10-litre bag had to go on the footboard in all cases. The four things sat tightly in the Grazia and closing the seat was a bit of a challenge. But the other two swallowed the quartet whole easily and the TVS actually has - surprise - the biggest and most useful underseat cavity. And the little courtesy light is a boon and much appreciated.

The seat release and fuel cap are an integrated part of using scooters and here the TVS and the Suzuki have an edge of the Honda. The Grazia aims to reinvent the seat release by adding a key-unlocked switch for this. Unfortunately, it's fiddly and it appears to remain locked despite you having completed what appears to be the right sequence of fiddling. This is unnecessary! The Suzuki has the easiest seat release integrating everything into the ignition slow and adding a magnetic lock cover to boot. The TVS uses a simpler mechanism by allow the key hole on the side panel to rotate one way for the fuel cap and the other way for the seat release.

Who wins? It's a tie between the Access and the NTorq. The Suzuki's seat release is easier and the foot board is larger. The TVS NTorq 125 has more space under the seat and it's fuel cap doesn't require you to dismount and open the seat.

The brake lock lever is the final feature I want to talk about. The Grazia has the worst one here. It's a wierd little metal 'stick' that you pull up to lock the brakes. It feels cheap, underdesigned and not all in keeping with the design of the scooter. The Access has a decent one but the little locking lever on the NTorq is by far the easiest and most satisfying to use. The brake lock is an essential part of automatic scooter safety and you absolutely must use it if you're parking the scooter with the engine running. The NTorq also has the digital connectivity features that permit you to sync you phone to see incoming calls, navigation prompts and more. These features are, at this time, not available on any scooters or Indian-made motorcycles.

Ergonomics

A separate section for ergos? Well yes. Just to clarify that all three should fit everyone easily, short or tall. If you're six foot or over though, watch out on the Grazia, the handlebar is very close to your thigh though it never touched or interfered on the test. The Ntorq, despite its narrow profile and sporty looks actually has the biggest gap from thigh to bar but it feels like the longest reach to the ground for your legs as well.

Engines and performance

The Access 125 has been the winner for a long, long time on this count. The way it handled the trifecta of acceleration, economy and refinement has won it many comparos as well as fans. And the Honda Grazia doesn't beat it. It gets to 60kmph 0.2s later, stops a smidge quicker and they both return roughly the same economy too. The NTorq, though has both their numbers. It's quicker to 60s by 0.2s again over the Access (almost half a second over the Grazia!), produces the quickest, most consistent stops and has the best city economy too.

Dominant performance? You don't know the half of it. On our test, the Grazia felt the most leisurely of the three 125cc scooters by some margin. The rider had to work hard to keep up with the other scooters whether taking off from the lights, accelerating past other traffic or cruising out on the highway (yes, we did that too). The Access is great fun in comparison. The combination of that engine in that meek-sleek body is always a surprise. It's like an athlete wearing a Kanjeevaram. You never quite expect it to lift up the hem and sprint off into the distance. The transmission seems a bit more alert, the engine is audible - the Honda is almost whisper-quiet until you're maxed out - and the Access doesn't mind sitting at max speed for minutes on end either. The Grazia will show you a faint amount of strain when maxxed out.

The Ntorq though raises the bar. Not by a huge margin, but you'll notice the gap. It's quicker in every single situation - traffic, empty city roads, traffic lights, highway cruise, and overtaking. There's a thoroughly enjoyable engine note right through and when ridden flat out, it gets near its top speed more rapidly and stays there happily too.

I've had some great rides on the Access 125, both the first generation and the second, but the TVS Ntorq's pace and poise elevates the experience. This is wonderful! I remember saying that TVS should have taken a firmer stand and created an even more sporty package. Well, hats off engineers! This is about as close to real world sporty as I can imagine that won't make anyone think it's too hardcore for them. It's right on the edge and kudos to you for finding this balance with such accuracy! So much praise? Read on.

Ride and handling

The Ntorq is a heavy little scooter and to be honest, TVS' explanation for the weight makes me think that this scooter could easily have been 7-9kg lighter. Ooh, there's that tingly feeling again. But part of its performance advantage - despite the weight - comes from its suspension setup. The Ntorq 125 has the savviest suspension setup in the scooter business right now. It feels stiff initially but you notice that it isn't harsh. But slowly it dawns on you that the Ntorq is very much like, wait for it, the Honda Unicorn! I rolled my eyes when I wrote that too. It feels stiff but when the bumps larger and larger, you begin to feel how supple it is and that's a delicious surprise.

Because now the slim performance advantage of the engine is compounded by the fact that you don't have to back off for the bumps quite as much. It's these two things that make the Ntorq notably faster in the real world than the other two.

And of course, it handles really rather well. The 12-inch wheels and sticky TVS rubber make this the most cornerable scooter in this class. On a good road, the SR150 might have its number with its 14" wheels, but in the real world, the SR150's stiffness will cause it trouble.

Where does that leave the other two? Behind. The Suzuki Access 125 feels quite a bit stiffer in comparison to the Ntorq and it absorbs less. It still corners with great aplomb and confidence and it's still very much a brilliant all-round scooter. In fact, we jumped at the chance to ride a base drum brake model - all of our previous rides were in the disc-alloy model. I'm happy to report that the front drum may not have the power of the discs on the other two but the Access stops very well indeed.

The Grazia, predictably, is the safest setup of all. It handles bumps well and it goes around corners well too. Unfortunately, despite the sleek looks and sporty intention, the chassis is the old Honda Activa 125-based number and that isn't a sporty platform.

In dynamics terms, the Suzuki Access 125 was already a solid scooter and it remains one. But TVS has really taken the sporty 125 scooter thing seriously and the Ntorq is easier to rider faster than both of the other two.

Verdict

The Honda Grazia is third, then. As it happens in the scooter segment, there are hardly any scooters you can label as not worth buying. Which is most excellent from a market quality perspective. In the case of the Grazia, it has a handful of features you should look at carefully. Honda has the biggest network of these three companies so service will be easier to, er, access. The Honda also has the only LED head light in this trio and in the night that does make a significant difference. The Honda, though, is the most expensive scooter here. Prices start at Rs 59,752 (ex-Mumbai) and go to Rs 64,124 for the top model in the pics. Both the other scooters are roughly Rs 1,000 less expensive and the gap widens a bit further in on-road price as taxes are added on. To wit the top Grazia at Rs 77,996 is Rs 6,641 more than the disc Suzuki Accesss 125. There is a Special Edition Access that's closer - Rs 4,656.

The Special Edition trim adds matte paint, contrast red seat and chrome mirrors to the disc-alloy model. So at prices starting at Rs 55,996 for the drum brake edition and topping out at Rs 62,962 (ex-Mumbai) the Suzuki Access is the most affordable scooter here. The Suzuki Access 125 is still the scooter to buy - and I mean the whole of the scooter market including the 110s - if you have trouble convincing your family about sporty scooters. The Suzuki blends practicality and unisex styling with a genuinely fun riding feel and for a scooter, enjoyable performance. The Suzuki's downside is that the styling is a little too staid for youthful buyers and the company has the smallest service network of all three here.

The TVS Ntorq 125, through, is the best all-round scooter money can buy in the country in our books. It looks great, has solid performance as well as refinement, it's dynamic package is unmatchable in the real world and it's priced well too! At Rs 63,256, the TVS Ntorq 125 has only the one all-bells-whistles model. It's Rs 870 cheaper than the Grazia and Rs 2,000 more approximately than the Access 125 (disc). Nicely done, then. TVS are the past masters in benchmarking and beating the competition. We know this. Usually, their products arrive towards the end as each niche or segment fills out. But the Ntorq 125 arrives at exactly the right time and while the SR 125 is definitely a sportier, more youthful scooter, the Ntorq nails the balance between real-world ready and meeting the promises its sporty design makes. That's a runaway winner, despite the slightly contrived name.

[chrisabraham]

My 7-year love affair with a Surly Steamroller

My 2010 Surly Steamroller 3-Speed I have been riding fixies and single-speed bikes since before some baby hipsters were born. Single speed bikes used as city bikes isn't a new idea. I have been living with my trusty Surly Steamroller since 2010. Now, she's a three-speed. My Single Speeds: The Early Years My first single-speed bike was a 2000 Bianchi Pista in black. I ran it with a freewheel and a front brake. 

My Gucci SOMA Delancey in Berlin After it was stolen, I bought a 2007 SOMA Delancey frame and built it up with every single Gucci component I could think of: fat Salsa stem, a Brooks with hammered copper rivets that, fancy track cranks, chainring, and chain, flat Ritchey bars -- she was a sweetheart. She also was a casualty of rampant Berlin bike theft.

My Specialized Langster Gangster in Berlin So, then I bought an aluminum Specialized Langster Gangster single speed bike and brought her to Berlin with me as-is. She was a beauty. She came with a super-smooth freewheel that also got its ratchet frozen open during punishing subzero Berlin winters. To keep on riding through the cold, I would stop at little Turkish kiosks and order hot water or hot tea and then pour the boiling water over the freewheel.

My Sturmey Archer S3X 3-speed hub  It works--until that water freezes and there goes all the forward momentum. No ratchets, no teeth, no pedaling, no biking. Anyone else every do that? I loved how quiet ratchetless freewheels are but hated the freezing-open thing. So clicky freewheels from now on--they're sort of like the pedal bike version of loud pipes.

Frank Merfort on the Berlin U-Bahn That's why I ended up going with the buzzbomb-sounding clicks of the red White Industries Eno Freewheel I ultimately installed on my Surly.  When I left Berlin (for good? I hope not) I left the Gangster behind (now owned by the son of my buddy Frank, in the picture from back in the day--you'll see the SOMA Delancey in the photo to the left on the Berlin U-Bahn.  My 2010 Surly Steamroller 3-Speed City Bike

Glamour photo of my 2010 Surly Steamroller 3-Speed City Bike with Canvas Bag This is how she is now. After all the mods, none of which is very recent. My next mod will be adding a dynamo front hub that will allow me to replace my battery lights with serious night-splitting lumens, including a battery and a USB port. But not yet. 

My Salsa Cross Levers brake levers The build is standard. I believe I ordered the complete Steamroller bike from Surly. I didn't want to go down the Gucci gulch again like I did with the Delancey. So, it came with simple cloth-wrapped drop bars. I replaced the included brakes and brake levers with Shimano 105s and really shorty two-finger Cross Levers from Salsa. I replaced the stock saddle with a classic black B17 Brooks standard leather saddle.

My 700cx28 Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires I replaced the pedals with chunky MTB cage pedals that accepted generic black plastic toe clips with straps. I've had my original DA22 Alex rims for all seven years and I made sure I got a set of 700cx28 Schwalbe Marathon Plus bike tires--I'm on my second set--though I might go up to a 32 or more if it fits--just to try them out, see what it's like. Historically, I have really loved skinny tires. 

How I locked my bike in Portland, Oregon But I love the Marathon Plusses so much and would never try another. Why? Here's the marketing: "The Marathon Plus is the only tire worldwide that can be called 'flat-less'. This is due to its unique and patented puncture protection belt: five millimetres thick and made from highly elastic special rubber. Even thumbtacks can't puncture it." And, I have never had a flat. Ever. I'm sold on them even though they're pretty heavy tires. I also love the reflective sidewalls that keep me visible in low light conditions.

My Surly Steamroller Reflects Light! In terms of everything else, I got caught out without my lights on a very late NoVa trail ride home from DC and felt very vulnerable. So, I bought loads of red 3M reflective tape and taped all the bare black tubes. So, even if I don't have lights or my batteries die, my bike bike will light up under headlights. I also added a handmade reversible green/purple Black Star top tube pad. You'll see some early photos in the green but now it's purple. I might switch it up for fun some time.

My reversible Black Star top bar pad in purple and green Converting My Single Speed "Fixie" into a 3-Speed "Dutch Bike"

Sturmey Archer S3X When I moved back from Berlin, Germany, I moved to Ballston, Arlington, Virginia to take care of my mom.  Between DC and Ballston, I could handle the hills. Once I moved to Columbia Heights, above Pentagon City, the short, steepish, hill between the Pentagon and Columbia Pike just kicked my butt enough that I looked into the state of the art of internal 3-speed hubs.

Sturmey Archer S3X At least for fixies, track bikes, and single speeds, all roads led to the Sturmey Archer S3X. I bought the 3X Silver and had it installed over at local bike shop (LBS), Papillon Cycles here in Columbia Heights. They did a great job but I quickly broke them--almost immediately. They rebuilt is gladly and gave me a hint: unlike derailleur gears that require pedaling to actuate them, internal hub gears require a pause between gear changes.

Sturmey Archer S3X Since then it's been blue skies. I love them. Early on, I also had troubles with my heal messing with the gear chain and loosening the cable. No more. Everything's tight and reliable and very effective. Mind you, the top gear is only as high as the chainwheel and rear sprocket combination. And the low gear is not as low as a granny gear. This is no mountain goat setup.  But it does surely smooth out the road. It allows my to arrive at my destinations a little less sweaty and beat up.  For me, it's a game-changer. 

Locked up at Miriam's Kitchen Right now, I am very heavy and quite out of shape so not even three speeds get me up the Air Force Memorial section of Columbia Pike or all the way up the Capitol Hill section of Independence Avenue--but I am sure the added lower-end grear-ratio will give you the extra compensation to get you up those sorts of hills if you've been frustrated by hills before.  The S3X is 100% durable and bulletproof once you get the gears changed but, as I said, it's very vulnerable during gear changes. So, you need to relearn how to shift because shifting like you do on a 12-27-speed road bike with 12-27 gears with front and rear derailleurs.

I ride in to Miriam's Kitchen In order to properly shift the Sturmey Archer S3X, the bike needs to be in motion, the rear wheel needs to be spinning, and you need to lay off pedaling for the amount of time it takes to shift -- then, you can shift one or two speeds. So, you can safely go from highest to lowest or lowest to highest in one shift--just as long as you're rolling and not standing still.  So, if you want to shift down before you stop at a light in order to speed up your start, think about doing that before you stop.

My bike locked to a pole So, at the high gear, click right down to the low gear right before you stop for the light. Like downshifting, think of it. I had the shifter for the Sturmey Archer S3X installed at the right bar end of the drop bars, so it's right there.  I could say it's pretty easy to install but I had the folks from Papillon Cycles do all this work. In fact, I'll also have them do any and all of the work associated with installing a front hub dynamo lighting system. Being loyal to the Pike! The Canvas Tail Bag

My beautiful canvas tail bag I don't know anything about the canvas tail bag except it was given to me by my mate Andrew Blake Curry who makes me look like an absolute pedestrian in comparison with his obsession with bikes and bicycling. It's got a wooden dowel on top and I used hose clamps to attach the top to my standard black leather Brooks B17 saddle. On the front of the bag, which is nearest the seat tube, there's a buckled leather strap that I affixed to the seat tube. 

The inside of the bag The bag is relatively cavernous. There's a main compartment and a pocket at either side. Each compartment is closed with buckled leather straps and all the straps and points of stress are studded. I have it set up that a red battery tail light lives on the bag and the way the leather straps are affixed and attached, there's plenty enough room for me to store my U-lock on the bag at all times when I'm not locking it down. 

I take my Surly wherever I move The Surly doesn't have wheel quick release or locking hubs but they are locked down via nuts and that seems to be annoying enough. 80% of the time, I U-lock the bike via frame and front wheel. 20% of the time, only the frame. The time it takes to break a chain to get a fixie wheel off of the bike seems to be enough trouble. And since the Sturmey Archer hub attaches via an additional chain to get the wheel off, I am hoping, as a former bike courier who was always hungry for unbent, unprotected, 26" wheels, wheel crimes are almost always crimes of opportunity.  

Thise Marathon Plus sidewalls reflect a lot! So, I definitely would consider locking hubs if that would aid to the perception that my bike is inconvenient to steal. People in greater DC are so terrible at even locking their $3,000+ Gucci bikes at all that I assume my gray man sleeper city bike, when it's locked right next to someone who is only attached via their front wheel with the quick release hub and the other bike that's not attached at all but leaning against the rack, the only security being that the rider is only a short distance away.  Well, that's it!  That's my bike.

My Surly Steamroller 3-Speed The only thing left for me to do is add a front hub dynamo, a high-lumen headlight, a fixed taillight, maybe a USB connector, possibly handlebar control of the intensity of the front lamp. What else? Maybe a handlebar mount for my cell phone, maybe not. And, then, of course, maybe wider tires and maybe secure-looking locking hubs for security theater.  So, that's my love letter to my 2010 Surly Steamroller 3-speed city bike. I would love any advice or questions you make have for me, especially when dynamo hub do you recommend, what front and rear lights do you recommend for the dynamo system, and what other must-haves should I add to the bike in order to make it the very best, coolest, city bike a boy can have for the next 7 years of proud ownership!     Read the full article

[toolsbestseller]

12 of the Best Winches of 2017

If you frequent off-road most of the time, then you must have a winch to help you get out of dangerous situations. A reliable winch will save you a lot of money and time that you may be charged during relocation and towing. Whether you are driving an SUV or truck, it is important that you have the ability to get your vehicle off any situation. A good winch should be able to work in any weather conditions and terrain.

12 Best Winches of 2017

In this review, we will look at each winch carrying different capacities, from various manufacturing brands. Our primary aim is to highlight winches that have the most positive reviews in the market today.  We also hope that after going through the review you will be able to see that the list has the best value for your money.  The order of our review follows the price from the most expensive to the cheapest.

1.      WARN 98820 ZEON Platinum 12 12000lb Winch

The ZEON Platinum 12 has a power rating of 12000 pounds and is believed to be the most powerful and advanced winch in the market today. There are no manual clutches; it has an advanced wireless remote control that virtually controls every aspect of this winch. With the remote, you will be able to control the winch and the clutch. You can use the ZEON Platinum 12 to check the motor temperature, battery condition and you can enjoy the USB charging capability in case your phone runs out of power.

Pros

The winch can be used to control other vehicle accessories such as light and air compressor

An external USB charging port suitable for mobile charging while on the move

A fully automated clutch and gear system make pulling easier and faster than any other winch in the market.

Cons

It is heavy and makes it a challenge to move it from one point to the next

2.      WARN 86260 VR12000 12000 lbs Winch

The VR12000 Winch from WARN is a heavy-duty winch that has been built for anyone looking to use a winch for the first time and is on a budget.  For an affordable price, you will be able to get a winch that is rated at 12000 pounds and offer more in performance.  It has an independent control block with various mounting positions. The power of this winch comes from a series of motors that also plays a significant role in its pulling speed. The braking control is superior to other winches of the same pulling capacity that gives more control to the user during a winch operation. The unique low-profile design is meant to fit in most SUVs and light trucks.

Pros

Has a durable structure with a reliable three stage planetary gear system

WARN offers a lifetime warranty on their product

Unique braking system for better winching control

Cons

Does not have a winch plate

3.      WARN 26502 M8000 8000lb Winch

The WARN 26502 M8000 is designed for a real off-road experience according to the manufacturers. With a rated power of 8000 pounds, its low-profile design makes it possible to fit various mounting positions. This winch can be used in a Jeep, SUV, and a truck. The 3 stage planetary gear system is powered by a series wound motor. The roller fairlead has a 100-foot wire that is chip resistant and with a powdered coated finish. The free spooling clutch works alongside a sliding gear for efficient service.

Pros

Good design with different mount points

The 3 stage planetary gear system has a direct drive cone braking system

Has an electric control box with hand-held remote attached a 12 feet lead

Cons

May get affected if used in a flooded terrain

4.      Smittybilt (98510) X20 Waterproof Synthetic Rope 10000 lbs Winch

Smittybilt 98510 X20 waterproof winch has a rating of IP68 which means it can be used in terrain with mud, snow, and water. It has pulling rate of 10000 pounds. The gear train uses a 3 stage planetary system with a ratio of about 218:1. The clutch utilizes a sliding gear mechanism with an automatic drum braking system. This winch uses a synthetic rope that is about 100 feet long.

Pros

The option of a wireless remote allows for greater movement when operating the winch

The IP68 rating means the solenoid can work under harsh weather conditions.

Uses a standard mount bolting pattern that ensures compatibility with different vehicles

Cons

The control box mounting may need some tweaking for a proper fit

5.      MileMarker SEC95 (es) Element Sealed Electric Winch

The Mile Marker SEC95 is said to be a reliable winch when used in the toughest terrain and off-road experience. It has a power rating of about 9500 pounds. Its solenoid is properly sealed to keep water away from its electrical components. Very reliable in mud and snow filled terrain. It has the most number of seals in its assembly to keep off any weather elements from damaging the unit. The exterior design is a no chrome construction that features stainless steel, black zinc for the handlebars, and the aluminum ties. The roller fairlead is coated in Dacromet.

Pros

The entire construction is corrosion resistant

Has a clockable gear housing

The submersible solenoid has different mount points

Cons

Product packaging is not as durable as the product itself

6.      KFI Products SE45 ATV Stealth Winch Kit 4500lb

The SE 45 ATV Stealth Winch has all its motors connected to the planetary gear system. It gets its power from 12 Volt battery source to churn up to 4500 pounds. You can choose to control the operation of this winch using the mounted handlebars or a corded 14 feet remote controller. The line is a 38 feet synthetic rope. The construction features a cast aluminum and durable steel component. The winch uses a pull clutch mechanism.

Pros

The gear system is all metallic making more durable

The handlebar mount has a mini rocker control switch to handle winch operations

Cons

One has to buy a mounting plate separately for some vehicle models

The winch wears out quickly when used in a busy environment

7.      SuperWinch 1595200 Tiger Shark 9.5 9500lb Winch

The Tiger Shark is another affordable winch that has all the standard features of a winch. This winch may be desirable for anyone who wants to buy a winch for the first time. Its housing has stainless steel roller fairleads, a sealed submersible solenoid, and a beautiful finish that make it more durable even in the harshest of conditions. The 3 stage planetary gear box is made from sturdy materials which make it able to handle more stress and torque. The free spool lever has an ergonomic design that can stop debris that gets attached to the pulling line.

Pros

Weather sealed motor and solenoid reduces damage from water, snow, and dust

The handheld remote is made of rubber making handling comfortable

The roller fairlead is made of heavy-duty stainless steel to withstand harsh conditions

The free spooling gear has an ergonomic design to allow for easy operation

Cons

Fuse blows when the winch is under a load

8.      WARN 90250 ProVantage 2500 Winch 2500lb

WARN tells us that another one of their best ATV/UTV winch. It has a sturdy build and a fully sealed electric motor that is supposed to work in all-weather conditions. It has a mini rocker handle that’s included for easier control and maneuver. The roller disk brake can be used to control the winch the moment something goes wrong during an operation. The roller fairlead is well-designed to keep off the rope during a winch operation.

Pros

The major components of this winch are corrosion resistant

The planetary gear system offers a smooth and efficient operation due to its ergonomic design

The electrical components are fully sealed to keep weather elements at bay

Fairlead lead plate is well designed to guide the rope without holding onto it

Cons

Some users report that the cable may not be durable when exposed to high tension

9.      VIPER Max ATV/ UTV Winch Kit with Black AmSteeel Blue Synthetic Rope 4000lb

The VIPER Max 4000 is said to be durable when used in harsh terrain. It has a permanent magnetic motor and steel gear system the rated pulling capacity is 4000 pounds. The winch manufacturers say that the winch can be adequate for snow plowing. It has a 3 stage planetary gear system with a 1.6 horsepower magnet. Some of its important features include a mechanical and a dynamic braking system that is supposed to reduce creep during operation. The solenoid is sealed to keep weather elements from it. The remote is tethered using a 9 feet inch lead cable.

Pros

The full seal is covered under a lifetime warranty

The planetary gears are also sealed from weather elements

The winch can be controlled by the use of a rocker switch or a remote control

Cons

Some cars need a mounting kit to be bought separately

10.  WARN 89020 Vantage 2000 Winch 2000lb

This winch is rated by the manufacture WARN as a power sports winch that offers the best performance in its category at an affordable price. The planetary gear system has a smooth construction that works together with its permanent motors to give a maximum power rating of 2000 pounds. The cable is a 50 feet air grade lightweight synthetic rope that can withstand a lot of tension. The motor and the drive train have been sealed to keep off weather elements. What it gets is power and speed from a favorable gear ratio of 155: 1.

Pros

Fully sealed motor and drivetrain keeps weather elements away

The planetary system is based on a differential system with dynamic brakes

Has a handlebar mounted mini rocker control unit

The fairlead has an accompanying plate

Cons

The electrical components get frozen when not running

Mounting has to be adjusted to fit in well

11.  Champion Power Equipment 14560 ATV / UTV Wireless Winch Kit 4500lb

The Champion Power Equipment 14560 Wireless Winch is said to be reliable for both ATV and UTV rescue. A maximum power rate of 4500 pounds that comes from its efficient planetary gear and dynamic braking systems adds to its credibility. The device has a permeant motor with a convenient and ergonomic handlebar remote control that can be used to power both the in and outline. It has a free spooling clutch and rugged clevis hook latch that controls the super duty galvanized aircraft grade cable. This model of a winch comes with cables and mounting channel that enables a smooth winch operation.

Pros

Has an efficient planetary and dynamic braking system

The product has a two-year limited warranty with a free technical lifetime support from the manufacturer

Has a protective weather resistant Neoprene protective cover

Cons

You may need to buy a mounting plate that fit your kind of car

The bolt that attaches the cable to the drum needs constant tightening after use

12.  SuperWinch 1130220 LT300 ATV 12 VDC 3000lb

The winch from SuperWinch was purposely built for an ATV. It has a rating of 3000 pounds pulling power. Makes no noise during operation and is mounted on a rocker switch and controlled by a handheld remote that is tethered at 12 feet for good winch operations.  Its standard features include a rugged metallic 3 stage planetary gear train, a heavy-duty roller fairlead and a free spooling ergonomically designed clutch for easier operations.

Pros

It has a roller fairlead and a mounting plate

The handlebar is smooth with a rocker switch

Has both the dynamic and mechanical braking system

Cons

Some vehicles require that you purchase a different mounting kit

The cable drum shifts sideways during operation

Where to Buy a Winch

The most convenient place to get a winch would be Amazon because you will be able to sample all types of winches without having to visit different shops that only stock a particular brand. Amazon also gives you the opportunity to look at what other buyers think a particular winch that may be of interest to you.   Buying winches from an online store give many shipping options that will fit within your budget.

Parts and Accessories

The primary item may be a winch, but you may also need to have other accessories that may prove to be important when using a winch. A pair of gloves may turn out to be handy especially when handling a steel cable.  Owning a snatchbox make using a winch quite easy as it helps you change the angle of pulling without worrying about the position of the winch. It is a vital accessory especially when you need two connection points.

The Bottom-line

Getting the best winch depends on what your personal needs are. If you look at our review, you will realize that different brands offer winches in almost every weight category. You need to fully understand your exact needs and probably consult your trusted mechanic who should help you get the best winch that is right for you.  From this review, it is evident that the ZEON Platinum from WARN carries the day

  The post 12 of the Best Winches of 2017 appeared first on Tools Bestseller.

[davebeaudoin]

Project: Restoring a 1984 Honda CB700SC Nighthawk

I used to spend a lot of time working on and restoring classic cars. I restored both a ‘72 Cutlass convertible and a ‘80 Land Cruiser FJ-40 to daily driver status and have worked on a few mid-60s Triumph TR4s. When I moved to California I sold the Cutlass and the Land Cruiser with the intention that I’d be picking up a new project when I got out here. 

The problem with a hobby like car restoration is that it requires both space and time - things that are in short supply in Silicon Valley! So I decided to try something different and more manageable. I bought the above bike cheap, in non-running condition on Craigslist and got to work.

This is going to be a pretty long post so hit the jump if you want to hear all the details!

Step 1: Tear-down

First things first I had to pull the bike apart to be able to get to everything I needed to fix and evaluate. My laundry list of projects was as follows:

Flush and clean the tank Rebuild the carburetors Replace the aftermarket pod filters with the OEM Airbox and hoses Replace vacuum and gas lines Flush and restore the brakes Change the oil Replace all the lights with brighter modern LED lights Replace the worn rear tire

Having worked on cars I assumed that each of these tasks would spawn their own set of sub-tasks. I was not mistaken (hence the beer).

Step 2: Frankenstein’s Monster

Having the pod filters actually made it easier to pull the carb, but did mean I had to drop some money on replacement hoses to mate the carb intake manifold to the airbox (which luckily hadn’t been removed). Pod filters are an affectation of the cafe racer scene and they’re fine for some bikes, but they looked terrible on this one and whomever installed them didn’t rejet the carbs to account for the difference in airflow. 

This is why you clean your carbs kids. This was the worst of the sludge that had accumulated in the bowl of the carb, but they all had deposits of varying degrees. 

The choke valves were also a total mess. This one was seized in the carb body and took some convincing to get loose. Once it was cleaned up and back on the bike we were in business though. 

A post shared by Dave Beaudoin (@daswickerman) on Jul 1, 2017 at 12:25pm PDT

It’s Alive!

Step 3: Fluids are boring

I changed the oil, and flushed the brake lines with a handy vacuum pump. I will say that the whole process is way easier when you’re working on a 500lb bike and not a 1500lb car!

Step 4: Electrical

With old vehicles it’s not uncommon to have electrical “gremlins” that you have to chase down. I converted everything to LED lights and updated the original flasher unit from an electro-mechanical model to a pure electronic flasher. That upgrade is necessary because LED lights don’t draw enough power to operate the magnets inside an old style flasher and you end up with no flash or fast flashing. It’s a similar situation as to what you used to see on vehicles with trailers. Attaching the extra wiring to the system changes the current and resistance and no longer matches the specs of the flasher. Electronic flashers fix this by only requiring a very minimal current to operate. They’re far for forgiving and for $6-$10 deliver great results. 

Once the conversion was done I was still having problems with my brake lights and headlight. After about a week with a multi-tester and the wiring diagram for the bike, I found one of the problems. A broken ground contact in the light switch was disabling the headlight. Since I had it out of the bike, I rebuilt the switch and added solder to the contacts on the inside of the mechanism to replace copper that had worn down. Once that was sorted I was treated to this ridiculously bright headlight! Score one for safety!

The other issue is with the break lever on the handlebar. It’s an aftermarket lever and lacks the material to properly push down the leaf switch that controls the rear brake light. The options here are to find an original replacement or build up that part of the brake with extra material. I’ll probably take the latter approach in the short term by using JB Weld or another epoxy to build up the lever while I look for a more suitable replacement.

That’s all the updates for now. next on the list is a replacement rear tire!

[lindafrancois]

A Beginner’s Guide to Biking: How to Cycle for Fitness

Let’s get you up and rolling on a bicycle! 

Whether you’re using it for exercise or transportation, biking is a great way to stay active and explore the world around you.

That’s why we encourage it in our Online Coaching Program when we discuss fun exercises! 

Want to train in a way that doesn’t suck? Learn more about NF Coaching!

Here’s what we’ll cover in today’s guide:

What are the benefits of cycling?

The 6 different types of cyclists

How to buy a bike

How to set up your bicycle

What gear to purchase for biking

What to bring on your bike ride

How to ride a bike

How to improve your bike riding skills

Bike riding etiquette for newbies

It’s time to hit the road (Next steps)

Let’s roll!

What Are the Benefits of Cycling?

There are a lot of excellent reasons to take up riding bikes:

It’s a great and healthy way to move from point A to point B.

It’s free – no gas to put in, no parking spaces to pay for.

It’s low impact on your body. There are no jarring-impact moments like with running.

It’s a great place to start with exercise. Sit on bike. Pedal. Done.

It’s fun!

Cycling has a magical ability to be whatever the rider wants it to be. 

Fun, challenging, scary, romantic, social, silly… you name it and there’s a type of cycling for it. You can even change what type you are doing to suit your mood on any given day, which is why most avid cyclists end up with several different bikes.

Some Rebels in the NF Coaching Program have even used cycling as a tool to help them get in shape, as demonstrated by Kyle here:

Note: Kyle also switched up his diet for his result.

The world can use more cyclists, so I’m stoked you’re interested in getting started. 

The 6 Different Types of Cyclists

Let’s spend a few minutes thinking about what type of rider you’d like to be.

The below list is not mutually exclusive, mind you. You can flip back and forth, contradict yourself, or mix and match them to suit your own needs.

#1) Mountain Biker

No one loves the outdoors as much as these guys do. If you’d rather ditch the pavement for a trail, mountain biking may be for you.

#2) Roadie

As the name would suggest, these riders are going to be found pedaling down your street. They often wear bright colors to make them easily seen by commuters. If you go this route, you can pretend like you have a sweet superhero costume to wear!

You can take this idea too far. 

 #3) Track 

Track cycling is a racing sport where riders zoom around a velodrome. If you’re a beginner, this is probably too advanced for you, but something to think about as you gain more cycling experience. 

#4) Triathlete

A triathlon is a multisport race where participants run, swim, and bike their way to the finish line. They’re not a bad event to train for since you have to condition yourself for a few different sports.

There are many triathlon events designed for beginners, some of which you can check out right here. 

#5) BMXer

Generally when people do lots of tricks on their bike, it’s a BMX bike. 

BMX is an abbreviation for bicycle motocross or bike motocross and were originally modeled after dirtbikes (minus the engine). They’re popular with kids, but also good for adults who are looking to perform a stunt or two. 

#6) Casual Rider

This is, in my opinion, the easiest way to get started.Just do whatever you want to on a bike and enjoy yourself in the process. 

Sounds simple, right? It is!

How to Buy a Bike

Truth be told, the best bike for you to buy is whatever one you like the best.

I think it’s wise to get a bike shop’s help in buying a bike that fits you. Even though you can adjust your bicycle to fit (more on this next section), it could still be potentially too large or small. Here’s how to find a bike shop in your area.

If you are going to select a bike on your own, you’ll want to consider its height:

If the bike has a horizontal tube, you should have about one to two-inch clearance from your crotch to the top tube, when standing over the bike.

If the bike has a sloping top tube, you’ll want at least two-inch clearance.

Shown here from REI’s guide to bike fitting:

Now, bikes do cost money. Expect to spend a few hundred bucks minimum at your bike shop. You don’t have to spend thousands, but you’ll have more fun on a decent bike than a heavy, crappy one from a department store.

If you must buy as cheaply as possible, in my opinion, most people are best served with a steel-framed 80’s road bike. They’re cheap, nearly indestructible, and easy to find on Craigslist.

Don’t be afraid to make counter offers and haggle a bit. 

You can also search the bike on Bicycle Blue Book to make sure you’re getting a fair deal. 

If you do buy a used road bike, steer away from 27” wheels, since 26” have become standard and will be easier to replace.  

Lots of people get mountain bikes for their first bike, and I think it’s a mistake unless you plan on riding through dirt. They are heavy and slow because they’re meant for trail riding on mountains. There’s also a cheaper bike option called bikesdirect.com. They sell off-brand frames with name brand components, and seem to have good customer service. Remember: get the bike you like. If you like it you’ll ride it. Keep that in mind as you’re reading the flame wars and conflicting advice. After all, it’s just bikes. It ain’t rocket surgery.

How to Setup Your Bicycle

While a professional at a bike shop can be a lifesaver when it comes to proper setup, you can totally do it yourself too.

#1) Saddle Height

A “good enough” way to determine proper seat height is the heel-to-pedal method. It might help to have someone hold your bike while doing this.

Take a seat, then have one pedal go completely down in the six o’clock position. Your knee should be completely straight here when making contact to this low pedal. 

If your knee is bent, you need to increase the saddle height. If you lose contact with the pedal, lower your seat. 

#2) Saddle Angle

For the most part, you’re going to want your seat angled so it’s parallel to the ground. Try this first, then you can adjust it slightly if you find different positions more comfortable. 

#3) Handlebar Reach

While handlebar reach can be a bit more personal, in general you don’t want to strain yourself to control the bike. 

When seated, you should easily be able to reach the brakes and shifters. Your elbows should have a slight bend, not locked. Adjust your seat first, get that dialed in, then adjust the bars themselves for your ideal setting.

What Gear to Purchase for Biking

After initially purchasing a bike, there are a few other things you should consider. 

#1) Helmet – In my opinion, it is imperative to own and wear a helmet when cycling. I don’t think it should be a law that everyone has to, but I think everyone should of his own volition anyway.

What kind of helmet should you buy? Giro, Bell, and Specialized all make good helmets. Try a few on and get a bike shop’s help with how it should fit.

#2) U-Lock – One of the most awesome things about riding bikes to get places is that you don’t have to park a car. You can just ride right up to the place, lock your bike, and go inside. You will need a lock if you’d like your bike to be there when you come out, though. Read up on locking strategy here.

#3) Blinky Lights – Get yourself a good set of blinky lights for your bike. 

I like the Blackburn Flea set, but also own the Spok LED light set, and the Planet Bike Superflash rear light. All are fine choices.

Outside has the unmitigated gaul of getting dark without our consent. It’s wise to have lights in these cases, so that you can be as visible as possible on the roadway.

#4) Clippy Shoes – If you’re going to ride often, eventually it’s wise to switch to clipless pedals and shoes. If you’re worried that they’ll make you fall over, rest assured. You will definitely fall over in them at least once. It’s called a zero mile per hour fall, and it’s a rite of passage. It’s also completely worth it.

#5) Lycra – If you’re doing any amount of riding at all, I recommend getting yourself a pair of bibs. Cycling shorts are nice too (they both have a chamois) but bib shorts are the ultimate in comfort.

What to Bring on Your Bike Ride

  When setting off on a ride, carry these things: 

A spare tube

Tire levers 

A CO2 inflate 

A Master Link 

A spare cylinder of CO2

$20. 

Everything except the tube fits nicely into a little canvas bag that can slip into a center jersey pocket, which eliminates the need for a seat bag, which has a tendency to fall apart after a few hundred miles.

Don’t buy an expensive bike tool to carry on your rides. Any repair you can’t do with the above kit is a ride ender. Take a cab with the $20 instead and spend your tool budget on nice tools to keep at home if you want to wrench on your bike.

Also don’t buy a frame pump or mini pump – they don’t work well at all.  Get a floor pump for home and carry CO2 with you.

How to Ride a Bike

Turn pedals.

Don’t hit anything or fall off.

Kidding.

Here’s exactly how to ride a bike:

Let’s explain some more tips for smooth bike riding:

#1) Use your rear brake to check your speed and your front one only if you really want to stop. If you grab a handful of front brake on a modern bike it might become a catapult.

#2) Remember when I said clippy shoes were worth it? It’s because they allow you to apply power throughout the whole revolution of the pedal, and to use your whole leg and butt to apply said power. They’re awesome.

#3) Keep in mind also that it’s more efficient to spin than to mash. This means that you’ll be able to deliver more power for longer if you ride in a smaller, easier gear at higher cadence (RPM) than in a bigger, harder gear at slower cadence. Ideal cadence is said to be 90rpm or so, which is the exact tempo of Cake’s song The Distance. 

One foot should make a revolution for each beat of the song, or in other words, your foot is a quarter note. Your other foot will be offset, of course, so as a pair your feet will play eighth notes. And you didn’t even know you were a musician!

#4) Your body should be pretty much still when you’re riding. Your knees should be in line between your hip and ankle, not out as if you’re trying to climb a pole:

How to Improve Your Bike Riding Skills

Cycling is beautiful and amazing, but the best cycling is also social.

Having some friends who are into it will help keep you into it. Mind you, it is ten buh-jillion times easier to meet people who already like things you want to do than to convert people you already like into doing something new. 

So, go do your local group ride. There’s guaranteed to be a beginner one near you that runs out of a bike shop. Ask at the bike shop once you feel comfortable returning. 

Yay for socializing!

You can also check out Meetup for a riding group. 

Bike Riding Etiquette for Newbies

There’s a tendency for new riders to want to express their liberation from the metal cage of the automobile through a certain free-spirited attitude toward traffic laws.

Please don’t do this.

Whatever we do while riding in traffic will be remembered by every driver who sees us and counted either for or against cycling as a whole in that driver’s mind.

Many new riders adopted a Me-Vs-Cars attitude, and it’s always a mistake. 

Figure out what the laws regarding cyclists on the road are in your area and follow them always!  Google “bicycling laws + [ your state ]”

You’ll also have a much easier time in traffic when you ride like traffic.

It’s Time to Hit the Road (Next Steps)

Above all, remember that cycling is a fun, social activity.

Wave to other riders. Say hello to them when you pass them. They’re nice folks! Well, except “serious” roadies, of course, but only other roadies listen to them!

Okay, that’s about it for this guide.

Find a bike, wear a helmet, and get ready to roll:

If you want to continue your journey with Nerd Fitness, there are three great options for you. 

Option #1) If you want a professional coach in your pocket, who can do video form checks, provide feedback, and adjust your workouts based on the equipment you have available, check out our Online Coaching Program! 

Some of our clients are avid cyclists and their coaches design workouts around their biking schedule:

Our coaching program changes lives. Learn how!

2) Exercising at home and need a plan to follow? Have questions you need answered? Join Nerd Fitness Prime!

Nerd Fitness Prime is our premium membership program that contains at-home exercise routines, live-streamed workouts with NF Coaches, a supportive online community, group challenges, and much more! 

Learn more about Nerd Fitness Prime!

Option #3) Become part of the Rebellion! We need good people like you in our community, the Nerd Fitness Rebellion.

Sign up in the box below to enlist and get our Rebel Starter Kit, which includes all of our “work out from home” guides.

Get your Nerd Fitness Starter Kit

The 15 mistakes you don’t want to make.

Full guide to the most effective diet and why it works.

Complete and track your first workout today, no gym required.

Have fun out there, and ride safe, cycling friend!

-Steve

###

photo, photo, photo, photo, photo, photo, photo, photo, photo, photo, photo, photo, photo

A Beginner’s Guide to Biking: How to Cycle for Fitness published first on https://dietariouspage.tumblr.com/

[usamotorscycle-blog]

Polaris Slingshot Vs. Can-Am Spyder F3-S Vs. Morgan 3 Wheeler

Technically, and by that I mean according to the way in which the vehicles here are registered through the DMV (except Texas, but more on that later), each of these three-wheelers qualifies as a motorcycle. In California, at least, a motorcycle endorsement on your driver’s license to legally operate them is not required, and the two with seatbelts eschew the state’s helmet law. Still, without a more explicit category available and the law being what it is, “motorcycle” becomes the default label for this trio. https://youtu.be/zuXWHGEBPT0 As a lover of all-things-motorcycle, with a broad motorcycling perspective, you’ll not find me disparaging anyone for constructing or owning one of these reverse trikes, a traditional trike, a sidecar or any other configuration of “motorcycle” no matter how thin the association. However, in a situation of forced attrition where my garage is bereft of Morgan 3 Wheelers, Polaris Slingshots and Can-Am Spyders you’ll always find a two-wheel motorcycle, but never the other way around. Hopefully, under no circumstances will I only have one motorcycle in the garage. Discuss this at our Polaris Slingshot Forum. With that said, the comparison test here technically and subjectively qualifies as a motorcycle shootout – more so for some than others, but we’ve made peace with the elephant in the room. So let’s get into what we’re all here for: How ridiculously fun these things are to ride and/or drive.

The Slingshot provides the best wind protection, has adjustable seats, adjustable steering column, and cruise control. The Spyder F3 also has cruise control, but the Morgan does not. To get the ball rolling, Chief Editor, Kevin Duke, has a few observations for those thinking the Morgan or Slingshot may be a good replacement for their Honda Civic. 2015 Polaris Slingshot Review – First Ride/Drive + Video “Don’t mistake these cyclecars for having car-like interior noise levels,” he says. “Not only is wind noise naturally part of the equation, but engine and driveline noise is also much more prevalent than in a normal car.” It should also be noted that the Morgan and Polaris Slingshot, although car-like in appearance, are not endowed with the same safety standards (airbags, crumple zones, side-impact protection, etc.), installed in actual automobiles. So, any perceived safety benefit compared to a two-wheeler is minimal at best. Duke also reminds us that “a three-wheeler results in at least one wheel hitting every bump in the road – no swerving between tire lanes as on a motorcycle, and no straddling a centralized bump as in a car.”

Nothing but analog here. “No power steering, no power brakes, skinny front tires and technologically ancient engine architecture means the Morgan is basic and elemental,” says Associate Editor Troy Siahaan. Funny how the most expensive vehicle here, the Morgan ($78,000 as tested), is also the one lacking any of the modern technological rider aids with which the other two are so equipped. “There’s a pureness in the driving experience, where you know every input you’re giving is being delivered to the vehicle and not given by a computer’s interpretation of your demands,” says Siahaan. “The Morgan’s steering is beautifully communicative, well-weighted and provides delicate yet clear feedback,” says Editorial Director Sean Alexander. “The 3 Wheeler’s well-sorted chassis encourages the driver to explore its admittedly low limits, while its Mazda Miata-sourced transmission has delightfully short throws and a satisfying feel of engagement.” The Morgan’s lack of modernity and direct-connect feel is in stark contrast to the Slingshot and its electronic package including ABS and stability- and traction-control systems. “I was initially unhappy with the Slingshot’s handling balance until I switched off the stability control,” says Duke. “Once unbridled, the chassis balance between front and rear wheels became much more readable, upping the fun factor significantly.”

The GM-sourced (yes, it’s a car engine) 2.4 liter Ecotec produces a claimed 173 crank horsepower at 6200 rpm and 166 ft-lbs. of torque at 4700 rpm. “Sean likened its engine noise to a vacuum cleaner, but I thought it sounded decent for a run-of-the-mill four-cylinder,” says Duke. “It’s sportier than I expected.” “The Slingshot is capable of negotiating a twisty mountain road quicker than the other two vehicles in this comparo,” says Alexander. “Bang-for-buck, it’s the one to choose. However, I find it less engaging and the least satisfying of the three to drive quickly.” Scorpion V-Rod Reverse Trike The Slingshot’s steering surprised us by its inability to self-center the front wheels, forcing a driver to be very assiduous to his steering inputs. We spoke to Polaris about the issue, and it claims this is the first instance they’ve ever heard of this happening. According to Polaris, the vehicle we tested was pre-production model, and in the time between it and the consumer models now available, the company has “improved fit-up between the power steering unit and steering rack. Both of these changes contribute to an improved steering feel for production units.”

With a saddle, handlebars, twistgrip throttle, foot shifter, and hand-operated clutch lever, look no further than Can-Am’s Spyder F3 as the vehicle here most-closely affiliated to true motorcycle operation. And then there’s the Can-Am Spyder F3-S – arguably the best Spyder to date and the closest kin to a true motorcycle in this group. “The F3 doesn’t steer like a motorcycle, but its chassis feels playful to a rider – up to a point,” says Duke. “Push its front tires a little too hard into a corner, and the electronic stability control intervenes like a killjoy mother, unexpectedly clamping on its brakes to reduce speed. To extract maximum enjoyment in corners, a rider needs to approach, but not push past, the electronic nanny’s limits.” This was a sentiment echoed by all our testers. 2015 Can-Am Spyder F3 Review While the F3’s algorithms are less intrusive than those of other Spyder models, an experienced rider will reach the F3’s electronic limitations in short order. A possible fix could be for Can-Am to introduce some adjustability into the system, allowing a rider to choose the level of electronic influence.

The Morgan has a quick-release steering wheel, which helps ingress and egress from the close confines of the vehicle. “Needs about one more inch in every cockpit dimension,” says Alexander. Both the Morgan and Spyder feature steering locks to deter thievery, the Slingshot does not. For a brief Morgan history lesson check out Troy’s Morgan 3 Wheeler Review. One thing that’s for certain, the Slingshot was an instant celebrity. We’re accustomed to the gravitational pull of Spyders on passersby, and the Morgan is certainly a head turner, but the Slingshot eclipsed them both. Even Alexander had to admit that the Slingshot draws a crowd. “During our testing the Slingshot seemed to render the Spyder almost invisible, causing crowds to gather and completely ignore our Spyder which was frequently parked right next to it.” The view from the front is aggressive and stimulating, but moving to the side or rear of the Slingshot garnered mixed reactions from our group of editors as well as the general public. “Unlike Sean, I don’t even mind the side profile,” says Siahaan. “But the back … well … something has to be done back there. The rear looks like an afterthought.” Duke opined that the view from the rear looks like a chairlift with a wheel bolted on.

The 1330cc Rotax Triple powering the F3 is a massive performance upgrade over the 998cc Rotax Twin in other models. It’s slow to spin, but produces gobs of midrange grunt. Note the adjustable footpeg, part of the F3’s “UFit” system. “I loved the silver/gray/black colors of our tester, accented by the glow of lava-colored frame rails,” says Duke. Compared to the Morgan, the Slingshot is also a far more practical vehicle. With cruise control, cup holders, a glove compartment, and lockable behind-the-seat storage compartments, the Slingshot is better equipped for performing mundane tasks than either the Morgan or Spyder. With its lockable front storage compartment (6.5 gal) the minimalist Spyder actually has more stowage space than the aluminum-bodied Morgan. 2015 Harley-Davidson Freewheeler Review All testers approved of the Mazda Miata 5-speed gearbox in the Morgan, calling it an “absolute delight,” among other praise-worthy quotes. The Slingshot’s drivetrain, on the other hand, was said by Duke to “howl at various speeds and gears.” Alexander summed it up as an “economy car powertrain that feels and sounds like an economy car powertrain.”

Need we mention that the twin exhaust pipes affixed to either side of Morgan sound as good as the vehicle looks? Handbuilt, simple, elegant, expensive, the Morgan exudes impracticality. The Spyder’s foot shifter and handlebar-mounted clutch lever, while the most familiar to us, requires a muscled pull to operate the clutch, and its gear selection was, at times, notchy. Spyder buyers can upgrade to the SE5 semi-automatic transmission for $1,500. At the F3’s launch, I rode mostly with the SE5 transmission and consider its push-button operation worth the price of admission. When it came to braking on the Spyder, Alexander explained it thusly: “Combined brakes leave a lever-free right grip that takes some getting used to, especially when trying to stop quickly. Using the right pedal for performance braking feels sort of like a lingering kiss from a close relative. It’s just unnatural.”

“Whoa, slow ’er down there, Duke,” says the Spyder’s artificial intelligence. Maybe, someday, Can-Am will do away with or allow adjustment of the over-exuberant safety algorithms and allow us to go about hurting ourselves in accordance with the freedoms this country allows. We have the right to be stupid, don’tcha know! Also operated by a foot pedal, but at the other extreme of linked brakes, are the manually operated ones of the Morgan. “Non-power brakes require a strong stomp but offer pure feedback during threshold braking,” says Duke. The Slingshot’s brakes provide powerful, progressive stopping performance in all situations. In the price department we’ve a wide gap between the Slingshot ($20k), Spyder ($21k as tested, $19.5k for the base model F3) and the Morgan at $78k as tested. Base model Morgans are priced somewhere in the $40k to $50k range, but that’s still twice as expensive as the other vehicles in this comparison. Granted, our tester came with a host of aesthetic factory options, like the $3,796.47 Factory Bright Pack, which boasts chrome roll bars, polished exhaust, polished lower engine case, and chrome headlight buckets. Once our tester arrived in the States, Morgan West, the dealer who lent us their demo, tacked on the “Morgan West Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Package,” which adds even more chrome/polished bits, graphics, and a Raptor air intake for the X-Wedge engine. Cost? Try $12,660.63. Needless to say, when it comes to the Morgan, if you have to ask, you probably can’t afford it. Which leaves us with the Slingshot and Spyder.

The height of the Slingshot’s rear bulkhead restricts rearward vision from anywhere but the side-view mirrors. Places such as www.slingshotmodshop.com will soon be manufacturing aftermarket upgrades for both performance and aesthetic purposes. Due to the apples vs dinosaurs nature of this comparo, we disposed of our normal scoring system because it just didn’t seem appropriate. However, there was consensus among all editors that when it comes to best bang for the buck, it’s almost impossible to beat the new Slingshot. At only $19,999 for the base model and $23,999 for the upgraded SL version (larger 18- and 20-inch, front and rear, forged aluminum rims, media console with a 4.3-inch LCD screen with a rearward camera, USB input and Bluetooth integration, and a six-speaker audio system), there’s not much, if anything, that can compete with the Slingshot in terms of fun, performance and wow factor at those prices. Before you begin typing in the Comments section below your chastisement of us for not including the T-REX in this comparo, know that we did, in fact, contact Campagna Motors but our requests fell on deaf ears. However, the lowest priced T-REX model, the V13R, costs $54k, putting it in a price range similar to the Morgan. The MSRP of the T-REX leaves the $20k Slingshot looking like a better bang-for-buck proposition. Polaris is currently battling Texas and that state’s asinine decision to disallow Slingshots to be registered as motorcycles. Asinine because the Morgan, Spyder and T-REX have already established precedent to the contrary. “We are working on it as a top priority but as of now the status has not changed,” says Polaris. Stay tuned to MO’s “What’s New” section for updates regarding this situation.

+ Highs Best Spyder yet New Triple much better than old Twin Customizable seating position – Sighs Expensive, especially when compared to Slingshot Electrical nannies still too intrusive Bummer about the reduced storage capacity

+ Highs Coolest vehicle here by a wide margin Handmade Fun going fast or slow – Sighs Most impractical vehicle here by a wide margin OMG! How much? Bereft of lockable storage

+ Highs OMG! How much? Front styling Everyday usability – Sighs Plastic-y, low-rent feel Rear styling Keyed ignition is only security measure Is This A Motorcycle? Reverse Trike Specs Can-Am Spyder F3 Morgan 3 Wheeler Polaris Slingshot MSRP $19,499 / $20,999 $52,000 ($78,000 as tested) $19,999 / $23,999 Engine Capacity 1330cc 1983cc 2384cc Engine Type Rotax ACE, DOHC, liquid-cooled, inline-Tripe S&S, pushrod, 4-valve, air-cooled, V-Twin GM, Ecotec, DOHC, liquid-cooled, inline-Four Claimed HP 115 @ 7250 rpm 93 @ 5250 rpm 173 @ 6200 rpm Claimed Torque 96 lb-ft @ 5000 rpm 103.3 lb-ft at 3250 rpm 166 lb-ft @ 4700 rpm Bore x Stroke 84.0mm x 80.0mm 104.8mm x 111.1mm 88.0mm x 98.0mm Compression 12.0:1 9.75:1 10.4:1 Fuel System EFI EFI EFI Transmission 6-speed manual or semi-automatic with reverse Mazda 5-speed with reverse 5-speed manual with reverse Final Drive Belt Belt Belt Frame Tubular steel Tubular steel space frame High-strength tubular steel Front Suspension Double A-arm with anti-roll bar Unequal-length A-arm Double-wishbone with anti-roll bar Rear Suspension Monoshock swingarm Monoshock swingarm Monoshock, single-side swingarm Front Brakes Twin 270mm discs, radially mounted Brembo monobloc four-piston calipers Twin 280mm vented discs, radially mounted four-piston calipers Twin, 298mm vented discs Rear Brakes 270mm disc, 1-piston floating caliper with integrated parking brake 250mm drum Single, vented 298mm disc Front Tire 165/55-15 4.00 x 19 205/50-17 / 225/45-18 Rear Tire 225/50-15 175/55-16 265/35/18 / 255/35-20 Seat Height 26.6 inches NA NA Wheelbase 67.3 inches 92.0 inches 105.0 inches Curb Weight 850 (dry weight) 1212 lbs 1725 lbs / 1745 lbs Fuel Capacity 7.1 gal 11 gal 9.77 gal Click to Post

[olivereliott]

Ricky 800: Imagining a Rickman BMW R80 desert racer

The world’s first big-bore dual sport, the BMW R80G/S, broke cover forty years ago. Born from off-road competition, it soon dominated at the Paris-Dakar rally, before going on to become an icon of adventure motorcycling. But there’s one arena it never really featured in: the Californian desert.

The G/S missed the heyday of the Californian desert racing scene by a decade or two. So it wasn’t even a concept when the Rickman Brothers‘ Triumph- and BSA-powered Metisse scramblers hit the scene. Had the timelines been synced, we may have been treated to a BMW Metisse … and it would probably have looked something like this.

This vintage boxer scrambler belongs to Jens Kallweit, who lives in the German town of Frechen, on the outskirts of Cologne. Jens is an engineer by trade, but for the past 25 years he’s been doing occasional custom work on the side, for himself and friends.

Enamored with the original Rickman Metisse Mk3, Jens had the idea to build the first boxer-powered Metisse. He didn’t use a G/S though; instead, he used an ex-police 1980 BMW R80/7. And he’s turned it into exactly what we imagine a period-correct BMW Metisse would look like.

Jens’ project was also initially far more ambitious than it turned out. He had imported a Rickman Metisse frame and tank of unknown origin from the UK, and had planned to simply use the BMW motor and final drive.

But he wanted the bike to be street legal, and Germany’s uber-strict TÜV policies wouldn’t allow it—so in the end, he had to stick to the stock BMW frame.

It’s not quite stock anymore though. Jens called in specialists SWT Sports to de-tab and reinforce the main frame, and to extend the swing arm and driveshaft by 100 mm. They also built him a hefty sump guard to keep the bottom of the engine safe.

A set of BMW R100GS forks and yokes were grafted on up front, with a pair of Öhlins shocks doing duty at the rear. Jens also swapped out the ugly OEM reflectors on the forks, employing a set of handsome aluminum inserts from Tolle Engineering.

Next, a pair of 21F/18R Akront rims were polished, anodized gold and laced up. Tires are Continental’s tried and true TKC80s. The front brake got an upgrade too, by way of a 320 mm disc and a Spiegler caliper.

Going deeper, Jens sent the motor off to his BMW workshop of choice for a full rebuild. They also added a Silent Hektik digital ignition with Nology cables. The airhead motor still uses its original airbox and Bing carbs, but now exhales via a custom exhaust from BMW specialists Hattech.

Jens also treated the R80 to a full rewire around Motogadget’s popular m.unit control module, and installed a Lithium-ion battery from BF-Akku. Most of the electrical components are hiding under the fuel tank (its tunnel was modified to make space), including the key ignition.

The only Rickman Metisse-looking piece Jens had at the start of the project was the fuel tank. So he reached out to HoltWorks in the UK, who fashioned him a replica alloy tail section and number boards.

Even though the BMW’s headlight nacelle looks like an off-the-shelf enduro part, it’s actually a one-off. Jens is chummy with the crew at Valtoron in Spain, who sand-cast it for him in aluminum, because that’s what they specialize in.

The only bit of plastic on the bike is the classic enduro mudguard that rounds out the front end.

Higher up, you’ll find a set of LSL handlebars, a throttle and grips from Magura, and two Beringer clutch levers—one flipped over and matched to a brake master cylinder that’s hiding under the fuel tank.

For switches, Jens picked CNC-machined items from Renard Speed Shop that match the Beringer levers’ clamps.

The turn signals are Motogadget bar-end units (front), and tiny LEDs from Kellermann (rear). There’s a small LED taillight sunken into the tail piece, and a 1960s Bosch fog light mounted onto the left hand crash bar. Other upgrades include a mirror from Highsider, custom brake and shifter levers, and grippy off-road foot pegs from Scar.

Those race numbers are from when Jens tagged along with the Valtoron boys on ‘Los Malditos 300’—a one-day, 300 km ride at an off-road park in Aragon, Spain. He jokes that “We Germans only made it through 180 km,” but we get the impression he’s talking about his abilities rather than the bike’s.

This R80’s combo of classic looks and modern components hits the mark for us, and the fact that it’s street legal is an added bonus.

What a fantastic glimpse at what could have been, had the worlds of Rickman and BMW collided.

Images by (and with thanks to) Marc Holstein and Christine Gabler