#Style: Flathead

[ticktockstuck-ezodiac]

TRUE PERSEUS Sign of the Beheader

PER* = Berry Sign • *SEUS = Prospit + Vim

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#742: The sign of a child of prophecy, whose birth was gifted with a curse. They will long outlive their kin, but their story in stone will long outlive them and their slayers. The patron sign of the berry caste, associated with the aspect of strength, enpowerment, and motivation.

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Berry Signs • Vimbound Signs • Prospit Signs

[wheelsgoroundincircles]

1948 Mercury Templeton Saturn

"ONE OFF." The only one in THE WORLD! Built for Lloyd Templeton, The Templeton Saturn A.K.A. as The Bob Hope Special Roadster. Powered by a '48, 239.4 Cubic Inch Flathead V8 with two 2 barrel Stromberg 94 Carburetors, Speedway Heads, and a manual transmission. While in Hollywood, California to appear in a movie, it was driven regularly by Bob Hope, hence it's name. People didn't know what the vehicle was and referred to it simply as The Bob Hope Special Roadster. The body is a mixture of curves and flat surfaces for a very unique ride. It has a Chrysler hood lengthened, Mercury windshield, rear fenders were formed from '46 Chevy fenders, and the rear deck lid came from a Hudson hood. The grille is a cut down from a '48 Dodge and bumpers from a '46 Pontiac. The interior is styled after the cockpit of a plane with multiple gauges most being period Stewart Warner with white-on-black faces along with various knobs and switches. Why was it named the Templeton Saturn? Simply because it was named after Lloyd "Templeton", and Lloyd felt it would "run circles" around any cars of it's time, therefore the name "Saturn." The vehicle has received multiple awards and accolades from coast to coast, from the Pan Pacific Auditorium in California, to the 1952 Speedarama Show in Minneapolis and down to a Silver Spring Gardens event in Florida. The same year the Saturn was displayed for 10 days as the Car of Tomorrow in a tent across the street from the Iowa State Fairgrounds. It appeared on the fairway by invitation at the 2012 Pebble Beach Concours d' Elegance. It also received an extensive 12 page article in Motor Trend Classic Winter 2012 Edition along with appearing in Bill Jepsen's book Iowa Customs. A true Collectible and a piece of American Automobile History!

[steampunkforever]

Swing music, for as good as it sounds on a crackly record, is best listened to live. Your stereotypical horn stings or sax solo, even when recorded on mics from 50s germany that a nonzero number of recording artists on multiple continents would strangle you with your own intestines for, simply cannot fully capture the experience of listening to a jazzy brass section full of someone's grandpas hitting the same horn part that you've heard a thousand times over in classless elevator music, only for the spirit of swing music to sprout from your chest in a way that shoves your head into a bathtub full of still-brewing gin and doesn't let you come up until you *get* double breasted suits.

This isn't to say that Swing Music is the key to understanding an Auburn Speedster or Model A (If you remember, the Model A only became properly cool when its guts were swapped for a ford flathead or an SBC) but that, excluding those truly great compositions that transcend the limits of recording and rerecording, the perceived "corniness" of the genre is simply a measure if its intended performance style: live. In a crowd of people having a good time. Even the most trite, most yawn-inducing, elevator music riffs seem to take hold of you when played live, if only to a field of retirees shuffling about in walkers.

Yet the music takes hold! Not a madness but still an echo of the bacchanalian excesses gripping pearl clutchers hearts in the days that this was bad boy music played by denizens of jazz clubs, the genre birthing Duke and Artie, but also a generation of much less talented artists who nevertheless sound fantastic live. There's an old man playing the trumpet solo in a gazebo right now and it leaves me irreparably changed.

[retrofitted-sunshine]

Let's Take Apart: A Roger's Rocket Flame Lighter!

I recently came into possession of a vintage lighter, A Roger's Rocket Flame! It was completely non-functional when I bought it (for $20 usd at an antique gallery), but I put myself to the task of repairing! This was my first vintage lighter, so I had no knowledge of how they worked before this! Let's learn together!

This is a long post, so I'll put in under a read more :3

Now, here's the lighter:

Opening it up we've got this going on:

Got a spark wheel, presumably some flint under that fella, then we got a wick, something characteristic of old timey lighters before we started using gas fuel like butane, and then this big ass weird tube that I've never seen before. Doing some research, it seems like this lighter is a rare style of lighter meant to be able to shoot a jet of flame sideways to light pipes as well as the traditional vertical flame. Cool!

First problem: spinning the spark wheel produces no spark! Let's investigate by taking off the windshield and spark wheel apparatus:

Ah! here's the problem! There's no fucking flint in this bitch!! Upon closer inspection, there seems to be very worn down remnants of some flint in this little tube, but it no longer contacts the spark wheel, so it's useless. I note that I'll need to buy replacement flint, and continue taking the thing apart.

Now, let's get this buddy out of his case, as I've learned that this is actually in a case:

Setting aside the windshield and sparkwheel, we give it a good tug and it slides right out of the case, giving us access to it's inside. Looking inside:

There's a bunch of fuckin' shit in here!! Google tells me this is packing material meant to absorb the fuel! Well, it's dry as hell so obviously I'll have to go buy some fuel. Anyway, let's dig all this out with some needle nose pliers and see what's going on without it in the way:

Looks like a the tube with the flathead screw is lined up underneath the spot the flint goes, so that's probably where the flint is kept. The weird thing here is we've got two wicks??? One that, upon inspection, just goes up to the spot the wick comes out on top, and another that seems to go into this curved tube, which, upon inspection, seems to be the continuation of the weird tube on top that sends the flame sideways. Well, both seem to be in good condition, so there's nothing to do there. Let's get this flint storage open:

Now what sort of trickery is this? While there was no flint up top, there's a perfectly good thing of flint in this tube! Which seems to just be a continuation of where the flint hole was up top! And this spring, which shot out at me when I unscrewed it very impolitely, should have been pushing the flint up through the hole into the sparkwheel to make the sparks! Upon closer inspection, it seems that there's a buildup of something, maybe flint dust that conglomerated into a blockage, that's stopping the flint from going up the tube and through to the top. Let's dig that shit outta there!

I just shoved my screwdriver down in there and scraped and dug about a good bit, which probably wasn't the best for either participant, but worked and didn't damage anything. After clearing the blockage I tried to put the spring back in the hole and:

Success! It can make it's way through without being stopped! That should mean the flint can push through too, which will be stopped by the sparkwheel when I put it back in place, which will mean the flint contacts the sparkwheel, which will allow it to spark! Excellent! Now it seems the only thing to do is refuel it and put it back together, so I screw the windshield and sparkwheel back on, put the flint in the tube, put the spring in after it, screw it closed, test the sparkwheel (it works!), then I begin repacking the cotton:

All nice and neat! Now, I was a bit hesitant to actually do this next part, but as far as I understand the way you refuel these things is to just pour a bunch of lighter fluid on the cotton and let it soak through to the wick, or wick(s) in our case. So, I took the lighter fluid I bought and poured until I felt nervous, well before it was fully saturated (because I read online that you don't want to overfill them). Once I'm done, I slot it back into the case and have what should be a fully functioning lighter! Hurray!

Now, the gimmick of the lighter, the sideways flame, doesn't seem to work. At least, it doesn't seem to match the videos I've seen online. Now, at first I thought perhaps there's a blockage in the pipe, but looking at the end of the pipe I can't even see a damn hole! Now, warning for those of you who are smart and deeply care about antiques. I do not handle this properly, or effectively for that matter. In my head, I reckon that there must be some sort of build up over the hole of the pipe, which would explain why I can't see a hole, and so I decide the best thing to do is push into the end of the pipe with a pointy implement!

Now, I must defend myself at least a little: I did not come across any images of the end of the pipe and how big it's hole should be, nor did I find any written descriptions. I did, however, find a written description of a similar mechanism (the jet beattie lighter) after, which was as follows:

"The orifice is so minute, however, that should it become obstructed, the user may have difficulty in locating the place where it is supposed to be. If he does locate it, he is not likely to have available any instrument small enough to clean out the orifice without enlarging it. Any enlargement of the orifice will at least reduce the effectiveness of the jet if it does not entirely destroy its operation" (the jet beattie patent).

Well, fuck. I did, in fact, attempt to clean out the orifice without a small enough instrument, which did, in fact, result in the enlarging of it, which has, in fact, reduced the effectiveness of the jet to the point of entirely destroying its operation.

When I light the lighter, it lights well and burns effectively, which, according to the patent, should heat the pipe and cause a stream of flammable gas to jet out and catch fire, sending the flame sideways. This all does occur now, save for the fact that the gas does not send the flame sideways. Now, after a few seconds of burning, the flame just kicks up and burns much larger, though it remains wieldy and usable. That affirms to me that there was in fact a blockage I cleared, as this did not happen before, but that affirmation is bittersweet considering I have rendered the most interesting part of this lighter completely non-functioning. I'm looking into how to repair this, but it will certainly require metalworking skills the likes of which I do not have. I can do basic soldering, but have no experience with this kind of repair. Still though, the lighter is really cool, and I'm pleased overall with my bringing it back into working order. Also, not a photographer by any means but here's a cute shot of it and a slow motion of the "kick" as the gas gets forced out the tube:

[grugthereal]

Drawing I made for my little "dude" named Flathead on account of "him" having a flat head and certainly no other reasons "he" has real names but I wont be sharing them I wrote "This goes hard" because it goes hard and I finally found a good style for him

I will post more about it and the rest of the stuff I'm making for a story in this world, not sure if I'll be putting the comics up on here or deviantart

[retrofret]

Just arrived a true time capsule Top O’ The Line 1937 Gibson flathead tone ring TB-18 tenor banjo in its original black hard shell case!! You can read all about this simply spectacular banjo by clicking on the link in our profile. - This amazingly original and extremely rare instrument is a Gibson TB-18 tenor banjo made in 1937. This was the top-of-the line, most expensive of the three brand new top-tension banjos which debuted that year. Banjo sales were at a low ebb at the time, many of the builders who had ridden the tenor boom of the 1930s were either gone or going out of business at the time. Gibson was one of the few who were still making professional grade banjos, and the only one to debut a completely new line. This top-line Style 18 was the only gold-plated Mastertone model available between 1937 and the suspension of banjo production during WW II. - - - - #gibsonbanjo #gibsonmastertone #gibsontb18 #gibsontenorbanjo #rarebanjo #banjoforsale #gibsonflathead #flatheadtonering #banjolove #banjolover #banjos #tenorbanjotuesday (at Retrofret Vintage Guitars) https://www.instagram.com/p/CqDvKpjuR-g/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[somediyprojects]

DIY Copper + Branch Floor Lamp

Project by Kate Pruitt:

We have this very annoying tree right outside our apartment that blocks all light from our windows, thwarting the sun’s attempts to warm us with its golden rays of energy. Damn you, tree! Recently I begged our landlord to at least consider trimming it back, and he finally relented, which left me with both a modicum of precious sunlight and some great large branches to use for projects! One of the felled limbs was especially long and solid and had a wonderful, gentle arc that just seemed so lamplike; I couldn’t resist. “I’ve lost my purpose. Make me a light!” it cried. Not really.

With autumn upon us, I decided to pair the branch with rich, warm copper and used a lovely sap-green color on the base to complement the season. Personally, I like the wonky bare-bones style of this little lamp, but if you wanted to dress it up a bit (my boyfriend said the copper part looked like a shower head . . . not cool dude), you could easily make or buy a solid cylindrical shade to place over the bulb. Now, don’t go hacking down trees like I did, but if you happen upon a fallen branch, I hope you’ll try this simple lighting project. Happy crafting! — Kate

Materials

large branch (Look for one that isn’t too perfectly straight or too twisty but has a slight arc to it and is at least 1.5″ thick at its base to ensure it’s sturdy enough.)

log stump slice (Mine is prop from a friend’s wedding, but you can ask around at lumber yards for these, or you could buy several thinner ones from craft stores like Michael’s and glue a stack together to make a thick base. If all else fails, try searching for firewood sellers on Craigslist, and ask if they have any stumps they could cut for you.)

4–6 small eye hooks (depending on the length/height of your branch)

15–20′ black lamp cord

chandelier socket kit

6″ copper pipe (1/2″ diameter — you can have this cut for you, or buy a standard length and use a pipe cutter to cut yourself)

90-degree copper elbow (1/2″ diameter)

1/2″ to 3/4″ copper coupling

3/4″ copper coupling (NOTE: All the copper pipe and pieces can be found at larger hardware stores like Ace, OSH, Home Depot, Lowe’s, etc., in the plumbing dept.)

high-gloss paint and foam paintbrush (any color you want, I chose sap green)

palm sander or sandpaper

drill with standard bit, 1.5″ boring bit (also known as a paddle bit) and a 1/2″ boring/paddle bit

25- to 40-watt chandelier-size lightbulb

Instructions

1. Sand your wood stump slice and cut the bottom edge of your branch with a saw to make a flat surface. Hold the branch over your wood stump to determine placement. I decided to set mine off-center for looks and to offset the arc of the lamp, but you could also place it in the center. Trace the branch with a pencil to mark the spot.

2. Use your 1.5″ boring bit to drill a circular hole in the center of where you traced the branch. Then switch to a small drill bit (1/8″ or smaller) to drill a small pilot hole directly through the center of the hole through the entire stump. This is the pilot hole for the screw or nail that you will embed from the bottom.

3. Place a good amount of wood glue onto the bottom of your branch and into the hole you made, then put the branch in place. Put tape around the base to secure it in place and set aside for the glue to dry. You may need to prop the branch against a wall to hold it in place while the glue dries.

4. Once the glue is dry, hammer a 2″ nail or screw a flathead screw into the base of the branch from the underside of the stump, using the pilot hole you pre-drilled. This is not necessarily needed, but I like to add it for extra stability on top of the glue.

5. Assemble your copper fittings and pipe together as shown below, and hold it up to the branch to determine where you want the pipe to extend. Mark the place on the branch where the pipe will come out, and also mark on the pipe where it hits the back of the branch to determine the correct length to cut the pipe.

6. Use your 1/2″ drill bit to drill straight through the branch. Drill slowly and carefully to avoid cracking the branch, and don’t go so far up the branch that the hole is almost the exact width of the branch; ideally, you want at least 1/4″ to 1/2″ clearance on the width. Use your pipe cutter to cut the pipe to length.

7a. Prepare your copper parts for assembly by removing stickers and cleaning them. Use scissors to gently strip 1″ of the lamp cord to expose the copper wires. If you examine your lamp cord, you will see that one of the cords has ridges and one side is completely smooth. You will also notice on your chandelier socket that one screw is brass/gold and the other is silver. Wrap the copper wire of the cord with ridges to the silver side, and wrap the copper wire of the smooth cord to the gold side (see second image below). Then slide the protective cardboard sleeve back over the socket.

7b. Now thread your 1/2″ to 3/4″ coupling onto the cord, with the larger side facing the socket, and slip it over the top of the socket. Slide your copper elbow onto the cord, as well, and fit the two copper pipes together. Then slide the last 3/4″ coupling over the cardboard sleeve so that the end of the copper coupling extends just a hair beyond the cardboard sleeve.

8. Slide your cord through the hole until the pipe reaches the branch, then wedge the pipe into the branch until it hits the back of the hole but does not extend out (see first image below). Then attach your small eye hooks so that the cord will match the curves of the branch. Thread the cord through the eye hooks.

9. Paint the top of your log with two to three even coats of high-gloss paint, allowing the paint to dry between coats. Tape up the cord during this process so it doesn’t get in the way.

10. Install the plug on the end of the lamp cord, using the same wiring technique from Step 7: Remove the rubber on the last 1″ to reveal copper wires and twist the copper around the screws, pairing the ridged cord with the silver screw and the smooth cord with the gold screw.

You’re done!

[gdmbrwiththerealcrew]

Day 9 - July 7th

With all our gear washed and food resupplied we left our Zero Day hotel before 8am. The first 40+ miles of our route were paved and relatively flat so we knocked them out in under 4 hours.

Along the way we pedaled past Lois & Gary and they gave us his signature salute and called us pussies as we went by. I thought they were headed to Washington, so why they were headed east was a mystery to me. I think they may have been going in the wrong direction. But hey, they’ve traveled across the country multiple times so I guess they knew what they were doing.

From Whitefish, we headed through Columbia Falls and south to Echo Lake through the Flathead valley. David and I had taken a similar route from south to north in 2018. At the time most of the land was being used for agriculture. Now, the valley is pocked with new homes. Some McMansions Montana style. It was surprising to see how much change has taken place.

Downtown Columbia Falls.

As we proceeded, we saw multiple signs for tour divide. One offered camping to any riders and another marking the miles between Banff and Antelope Wells. At the latter sign, a gent recommended a restaurant, the Echo Lake Café. He said the crêpes were excellent. So 10 miles down the road we came upon the restaurant, grabbed seats at the coffee bar, and proceeded to order breakfast. Everything was quite delicious, including the crêpes. The high school kids working the counter were quite generous with lemonade, orange juice, and tea refills. They were also quite curious about our ride and what we were up to. After espressos to wrap up our meal, we rested outside in the grass for a half hour, then hopped on our bikes to finish the day.

Free camping!

We had ridden almost 400 miles at this point.

Miles 45 to 55 were all climbing but miles 55 to 65 were all descending. Both are tough in their own way. With climbing you just have to get in a rhythm and grind it out. With descending you have to concentrate on your line as you proceed downward while staying relaxed enough to absorb changes in the road surface. In both cases you just want to stay up on the bike.

Just another climb.

In the middle of the climb we came upon a guy pulling a trailer with his bike. Like so many others, he was headed to Antelope Wells and maybe beyond. If was quite relaxed about he overall destination and even his destination for the night. Due to mechanical problems he had only covered 5 miles for the day and it was already mid-afternoon. He said he’d stop whenever he felt the urge. Needless to say, we never saw him again.

Most of our gravel riding today was is thick forest so we didn’t see much. The first 40 miles offered wonderful views of the mountains, however.

Flathead Valley views.

More Flathead Valley.

On the descent.

Our campgrounds was in Swan Lake. Unfortunately, the lake is hidden beyond the trees. The Swan Lake Trading Post is privately owned and the owner was greeting us before we clipped out of our pedals. We already had reservations so all she could do was sell us on the features of the place… showers, flush toilets, cold beer, ice cream!

As we walked to our cabins, we ran into the three riders we met in Whitefish two days ago. John, John, and Nick are riding the same route as us so we expect to see them several more times. We dropped off our stuff and sat with them over beers on the back porch of the trading post. We shared stories about other riders and compared notes for the next couple days.

Ed’s favorite beer! Not.

After dinner we got huckleberry shakes and then hit the sack. Tomorrow is scheduled to be a 55 mile day with lots of up and down. We will need the sleep.

Cheers.

Ride stats:

Miles ridden: 67.3

Elevation gain: 3,500 ft

Max elevation: 4,941 ft

Total descent: 3,461 ft

Start time: 7:54am

Moving time: 6:03:32

Elapsed time: 8:38:56

Ave speed: 11.1 mph

[undiscoveredclassics]

Here’s another great opportunity to get into an Undiscovered Classic with some real provenance. This 1954 Woodill Wildfire is currently for sale on @bringatrailer and the auction ends in 4 days! This 1954 Woodill Wildfire is a running project that is said to have been constructed for company founder B.R. Woodill and driven by actress Dorothy Malone in the 1956 film Written on the Wind. It was reportedly placed in storage until 1965 and remained registered in California through 1979. The car is finished in black with red side stripes over red leather upholstery, and power comes from a Mercury-sourced 255ci flathead V8 paired with an automatic transmission. Features include a Fenton intake manifold and aluminum cylinder heads as well as a Mallory dual-point distributor, 15″ wire wheels, a Continental kit, plexiglass wind wings, and Talbot-style mirrors. The car was reportedly purchased by the selling dealer in October 2021 at the Chattanooga Motorcar Festival in Tennessee, and it will require service prior to regular use. This Woodill Wildfire project is offered with copies of 1960s and 1970s California registration documents, period photos, and a clean Missouri title. . . . . #undiscoveredclassics #forgottenfiberglass #fiberglasscar #fiberglass #handbuilt #sportscar #sportscars #americansportscar #restoration #restorationproject #restorationcars #carrestoration #classiccar #classiccars #cars #carsofinstagram #carswithoutlimits #vintagecars #customcars #carcheology #woodill #wildfire #woodillwildfire #fordflathead #dorothymalone (at St. Louis, Missouri) https://www.instagram.com/p/CpIO1cgLNb1/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[symptoms-syndrome]

3, 33, 72, 81! :D 💚

We love 3s 💗💗💗

3:

Probably here bc of my drag, it was my debut song so I had to listen to it a lot LOL, I mostly listened to it on YouTube tho partially so I wouldnt totally fuck up my wrapped LMFAO. It's a fun song I told my drag mom I love media about teen girls that kill people it's great

33:

I thiiiiink this is country. It's got a fun fast pace and I love this style of singing, deep in the throat/high in the chest. I don't remember how I found this song but I got a little obsessed with it, it's just so strong??? IDK how else to describe it!

72:

This one is def in my range, or close to it, and also fun to sing to! Very swing-y and smooth and fun! I can't help but dance to it when it comes on, so I like to listen to it when I'm cleaning bc it's like. It gets me moving y'know?

81:

Hehe gay song + religion song. I obvi love the lyrics, but I also love the power of the singing. It also feels really strong in the singing, I really like it. I like when singers sound like they're really into what they're singing.

[ticktockstuck-ezodiac]

DRAPHEUS Sign of the Patriarch

DR(A)* = Ruby Sign • *PHEUS = Derse + Word

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#693: The sign of one kinder than they look, and whose kindness is darker than it seems. Charity one day turns to expectations of a return the next, reliability into dependence the next, and dependence is soon mangled into obedience. Production commentary: An older ruby in the catalog, this sign used to look slightly different. It's not as significant a change as some other old signs have received - it just used to have a circle instead of the T-shaped head it does now. Its loop also used to loop in a circular fashion instead of the point it has now, but that version just looked...too clean, is the best way I'd describe it.

◈≫༻──◇──◇──༺≪◈≫༻──◇──◇──༺≪◈

Ruby Signs • Wordbound Signs • Derse Signs

[morsunled]

Upgrading to LED Headlights on the Yamaha MT09

The Yamaha MT09 is a powerful motorcycle known for its agility and sleek design. However, like many motorcycles, its stock headlights may not provide the brightest or most efficient lighting for nighttime riding or low-visibility conditions. Upgrading to LED Yamaha MT09 aftermarket headlight is a practical modification that offers increased visibility, longer lifespan, and enhanced style. This guide covers the benefits of an LED upgrade, the selection process, and step-by-step installation.

Benefits of LED Headlights on the Yamaha MT09

Upgrading to LED headlights offers a range of advantages for MT09 riders:

Improved Brightness and Visibility: LED headlights produce a bright, focused light that illuminates the road more effectively, enhancing nighttime visibility and helping you spot obstacles sooner.

Energy Efficiency: LEDs consume less power than traditional halogen bulbs, which means less strain on your bike's electrical system and battery.

Longer Lifespan: LED lights last significantly longer than halogens, reducing the frequency of replacements and maintenance.

Modern Aesthetic: LEDs emit a crisp, white light that gives the MT09 a sleek, updated look, adding to the bike’s overall visual appeal.

Quick Response Time: LEDs turn on instantly, which is especially useful for brake lights and turn signals, providing faster signaling to other drivers.

Choosing the Right LED Headlight Kit

To find the best LED headlights for your Yamaha MT09, consider the following factors:

Brightness Level: Look for headlights with a high lumen rating to ensure they offer enough brightness. Most LEDs range between 6,000 and 10,000 lumens.

Color Temperature: A temperature between 5,000K and 6,500K offers a bright white light ideal for visibility without creating glare.

Compatibility: Verify that the LED kit is compatible with the MT09’s headlight housing and won’t require additional adjustments to fit.

Durability: LED headlights should be weather-resistant, with a high waterproof rating (IP67 or IP68) to withstand rain and dust.

DOT Certification: For street-legal use, make sure the LED headlights are DOT-certified, ensuring they meet road safety standards.

Tools and Materials Needed

Before starting the installation, gather the following tools and materials:

LED headlight kit compatible with the Yamaha MT09

Screwdriver set (usually Phillips and flathead)

Allen wrenches (if necessary)

Electrical tape and zip ties (for securing wiring)

Owner’s manual (to check specifications)

Step-by-Step Installation Guide

Follow these steps to install LED headlights on your Yamaha MT09:

Turn Off the Engine and Disconnect the Battery: For safety, make sure the bike is off and disconnect the battery’s negative terminal to prevent electrical shorts.

Access the Headlight Housing: Locate and remove any screws or bolts securing the headlight housing. On the MT09, this may involve loosening bolts around the headlight assembly or nearby fairings to gain access.

Remove the Stock Bulbs: Carefully twist and remove the stock halogen bulbs from the headlight housing. Handle the bulbs gently, as they can be fragile.

Install the LED Bulbs: Insert the new LED bulbs into the headlight sockets, ensuring they are positioned securely. Check that they’re facing in the correct direction to maximize light output. Some LEDs have adjustable bases for proper alignment.

Connect the Wiring Harness: Most LED kits include a plug-and-play wiring harness. Attach the harness to the bike’s wiring connector, and ensure it is secure. Use electrical tape or zip ties to organize and secure any loose wires, preventing them from interfering with other components.

Reassemble the Headlight Housing: Reinstall any bolts or screws to secure the headlight housing, taking care to check that everything is aligned correctly. Tighten screws firmly but avoid over-tightening to prevent damage.

Reconnect the Battery and Test the LEDs: Reattach the battery’s negative terminal, turn on the bike, and switch on the headlights. Verify that the LEDs are functioning correctly and check the high and low beam settings. If the LEDs appear too high or low, make adjustments to the headlight alignment.

Adjusting Headlight Aim

Proper headlight aim is essential to ensure optimal visibility without causing glare to oncoming traffic. To adjust:

Find a Flat Surface and Wall: Park the bike on a level surface facing a wall approximately 25 feet away.

Measure the Beam Height: Mark the center of the headlight beam on the wall using painter’s tape. The beam should be slightly below the headlight height to avoid shining too high.

Adjust the Beam: Use the adjustment screws on the headlight assembly to lower or raise the beam as needed.

Maintenance Tips for LED Headlights

After installing LED headlights, follow these maintenance tips to keep them in optimal condition:

Clean Lenses Regularly: Wipe the headlight lenses with a soft cloth and mild cleaner to prevent dust or dirt buildup, which can reduce light output.

Check for Moisture: LED headlights are generally sealed, but condensation can still form. If you notice moisture inside the housing, inspect the seal and dry it out to prevent long-term damage.

Inspect Connections Periodically: Ensure wiring connections remain secure, especially if you frequently ride in rough conditions. Reapply electrical tape or adjust zip ties if necessary.

Upgrading to LED headlights on the Yamaha MT09 enhances both safety and style. With improved brightness, energy efficiency, and longevity, LED headlights are a worthwhile investment for MT09 riders. By following the steps outlined here, you can enjoy a more comfortable and safer nighttime riding experience while giving your MT09 a modern, standout look on the road.

[replicawatchesforsalet276o]

How to Take the Back Off a Fake Rolex Watch: A Step-by-Step Guide

If you own a fake Rolex watch from Luxe Replica Watche, you might find yourself in a situation where you need to access the inner workings of your timepiece. Whether you want to replace the battery, inspect the movement, or simply satisfy your curiosity, knowing how to take the back off a fake Rolex safely is essential. In this guide, we will walk you through the process step by step, ensuring you can do it without damaging your watch.

Understanding Your Fake Rolex

Before diving into the process, it's important to understand that fake Rolex watches are often made with lower-quality materials and craftsmanship than genuine ones. Therefore, they may not have the same mechanism or durability. Regardless, taking the back off a fake Rolex can be done with care and the right tools.

What You’ll Need

Watch Case Opener Tool

Soft Cloth

Small Flathead Screwdriver (if necessary)

Magnifying Glass (optional)

Step-by-Step Guide to Removing the Back of Your Fake Rolex

Step 1: Prepare Your Workspace

Find a clean, well-lit area to work on your watch. Lay down a soft cloth to protect both your watch and the surface underneath from scratches.

Step 2: Inspect the Watch Case

Take a moment to examine your fake Rolex. Most fake Rolex watches have either a screw-down back or a pop-off case back. Understanding which type you have will help you determine the next steps.

Step 3: Using a Watch Case Opener Tool

If your fake Rolex has a screw-down case back, you will need a watch case opener tool. This tool is specifically designed to grip the notches on the back of the watch:

Place the watch face down on the soft cloth.

Align the watch case opener tool with the notches on the back of the watch.

Gently twist the tool counterclockwise. You may need to apply some pressure, but be cautious not to force it, as this could damage the watch.

Step 4: Removing a Pop-Off Case Back

If your fake Rolex has a pop-off case back, the process is a bit different:

Using a small flathead screwdriver, gently insert the blade into the gap between the case back and the watch case.

Carefully pry the case back off. Work your way around the edge to avoid bending or damaging the case back.

Step 5: Inspect the Inside

Once the back is removed, take a moment to inspect the inner workings of your fake Rolex. You may notice the movement, battery compartment, or any other components that interest you.

Step 6: Replacing the Back

After you have completed your inspection or made any necessary repairs, it's time to replace the back of the watch. For a screw-down back, simply align the back and twist it clockwise until secure. For a pop-off back, gently press it back into place, ensuring it sits flush against the case.

Tips for Handling Your Fake Rolex

Always work in a clean environment to prevent dust from entering the watch.

Be gentle and avoid applying excessive force when removing or replacing the back.

If you're unsure about any step in the process, consider consulting a professional or the seller.

Conclusion

Taking the back off a fake Rolex watch doesn’t have to be a daunting task. With the right tools and a careful approach, you can access the inner workings of your timepiece. If you’re looking for quality replica watches, be sure to visit Luxe Replica Watche for a wide selection of styles that can elevate your look without breaking the bank.

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How to Replace Batteries on a Fake Rolex: A Step-by-Step Guide

If you own a fake Rolex, you know that keeping it in perfect working condition is essential for both functionality and aesthetics. One common maintenance task is replacing the battery. Just like any other watch, a fake Rolex requires a fresh battery to keep ticking. In this comprehensive guide, we will walk you through the process of replacing the battery on your fake Rolex and ensure that your timepiece continues to shine.

Why You Need to Replace the Battery

Over time, the battery in your fake Rolex will lose its charge, leading to inaccurate timekeeping or a complete stop. Regular battery replacements are crucial to ensure that your watch remains operational. While fake Rolexes are not as high-maintenance as authentic ones, they still require care to maintain their appearance and functionality.

What You’ll Need

Replacement battery (make sure to get the correct type for your model)

Small screwdriver (usually Phillips or flathead)

Plastic pry tool or case opener

Tweezers

Soft cloth to protect the watch face

Magnifying glass (optional)

Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing the Battery

Step 1: Prepare Your Workspace

Find a clean, flat surface to work on. Lay down a soft cloth to prevent scratches on your watch. Ensure you have good lighting and gather all the tools you need.

Step 2: Remove the Case Back

Using your small screwdriver, carefully remove the screws from the back of the watch. If your fake Rolex has a press-fit case back, use the plastic pry tool to gently lift it off. Be cautious not to scratch the case or damage the seals.

Step 3: Take Out the Old Battery

Once the case back is off, locate the battery. Use tweezers to gently lift the battery out of its compartment. Note the orientation of the battery (which side is positive and which is negative) as this will be crucial for inserting the new one.

Step 4: Insert the New Battery

Take your replacement battery and insert it into the compartment, ensuring that the orientation is the same as the old battery. Use the tweezers to push it down gently, making sure it fits snugly in place.

Step 5: Reattach the Case Back

Once the new battery is in place, it’s time to put the case back on. If it’s a screw-back case, carefully align the back and screw it in place. If it’s a press-fit case, press down firmly until it snaps into place. Make sure it’s secure to prevent any dust or moisture from entering the watch.

Step 6: Test the Watch

Before you conclude the process, check if your watch is functioning correctly. Set the time and observe if the hands are moving smoothly. If everything is in working order, you’ve successfully replaced the battery!

Tips for Maintaining Your Fake Rolex

Aside from regular battery replacements, here are a few tips to keep your fake Rolex in optimal condition:

Avoid Water Damage: Even if your fake Rolex is water-resistant, it’s best to avoid exposing it to water. Always check the seals before immersion.

Store Properly: When not wearing your watch, store it in a soft pouch or watch box to prevent scratches.

Regular Cleaning: Use a soft, lint-free cloth to wipe down your watch after wearing it to remove dirt and oils.

Professional Servicing: Consider having your watch serviced by a professional every few years for a thorough cleaning and maintenance.

Where to Buy Quality Fake Rolexes

If you’re looking for high-quality replicas, visit Luxe Replica Watche. Our e-commerce website offers a wide range of luxury replica watches, including stunning fake Rolex models that will elevate your style without breaking the bank. With exceptional craftsmanship and attention to detail, our watches are designed to impress.

Conclusion

Replacing the battery on your fake Rolex is a simple task that can be done at home with the right tools and a bit of patience. Regular maintenance will ensure that your watch remains functional and continues to look great. For those looking to purchase a replica watch, remember to check out Luxe Replica Watche for the best selection.

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How to Take the Back Off a Rolex Replica: A Step-by-Step Guide

If you own a Rolex replica, you may find yourself wanting to access the inner workings of your watch for various reasons, whether it's for maintenance, battery replacement, or simply curiosity. In this guide, we will walk you through the process of safely removing the back of your Rolex replica. Remember, careful handling is essential to avoid damaging your timepiece.

Why You Might Want to Open Your Rolex Replica

Understanding your watch can enhance your appreciation for it. Here are a few reasons why you might want to take the back off:

Battery Replacement: If your watch runs on a battery, you may need to replace it periodically.

Maintenance: Regular maintenance can help keep your watch functioning smoothly.

Curiosity: Some watch enthusiasts simply want to see the inner mechanics of their replica.

What You Will Need

Before you begin, gather the following tools:

Case Back Opener: This specialized tool is designed to help you safely remove the case back without damaging it.

Soft Cloth: To protect the watch face while you work.

Tweezers: Useful for handling small components.

Small Flathead Screwdriver: This can help in case the back is secured with screws.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully to remove the back of your Rolex replica:

1. Prepare Your Workspace

Set up a clean, well-lit workspace where you can focus on your task. Lay down a soft cloth to protect your watch from scratches.

2. Inspect the Case Back

Before attempting to open the watch, inspect the case back for any visible screws or grooves. Some Rolex replicas have a screw-down case back, while others have a snap-on design.

3. Using the Case Back Opener

If your replica has a screw-down case back, use the case back opener. Align the tool with the notches on the back and gently turn counterclockwise. Be patient; applying too much force can damage the watch.

4. Employing the Flathead Screwdriver

For replicas with screws, use the small flathead screwdriver to remove the screws. Keep them in a safe place to avoid losing them.

5. Carefully Remove the Case Back

Once the screws are removed or the case back is loose, gently lift it off. Use tweezers if necessary to avoid touching any internal components.

6. Examine the Watch Movement

With the back off, you can now inspect the movement. Be cautious not to touch any delicate parts without proper knowledge.

7. Replace the Case Back

Once you have completed your tasks, carefully place the case back on. If it was screwed on, use the case back opener to secure it tightly. If it was a snap-on, press down gently until you hear a click.

Important Reminders

Opening your Rolex replica can void any warranties and may affect its water resistance. It's crucial to be aware of these factors before proceeding. If you're unsure or uncomfortable with the process, consider consulting a professional watchmaker.

Shop for Quality Rolex Replicas

At Luxe Replica Watche, we offer a wide selection of high-quality Rolex replicas that combine style and affordability. Whether you're looking for a classic design or something more contemporary, our collection has something for everyone. Explore our selection today and find the perfect timepiece that suits your style.

Conclusion

Taking the back off a Rolex replica can be a rewarding experience for watch enthusiasts. By following these steps and taking the necessary precautions, you can safely access your watch's inner workings. Always remember to handle your timepiece with care, and don't hesitate to seek professional help if needed.

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Pot Light Replacement: A Step-by-Step Guide for Homeowners

Pot lights, also known as recessed lights or downlights, are a popular choice for homeowners looking to enhance their interior spaces with sleek and modern lighting. These fixtures provide a clean, unobtrusive look and can be used to create various ambiances in any room. However, over time, pot lights may require replacement due to burnt-out bulbs, outdated styles, or wear and tear. This guide will walk you through the process of pot light replacement, ensuring a seamless transition and a beautifully illuminated home.

Understanding Pot Lights

Before diving into the replacement process, it’s essential to understand what pot lights are. Pot lights are typically installed in the ceiling, providing a flush look that doesn’t protrude into the room. They come in various sizes, shapes, and styles, making them versatile for any decor. The most common types of pot lights include standard incandescent, halogen, LED, and CFL fixtures.

Why Replace Pot Lights?

There are several reasons why you might consider pot light replacement:

Burnt-Out Bulbs: One of the most common issues with pot lights is burnt-out bulbs. Over time, bulbs can dim or stop working altogether.

Outdated Style: Lighting trends change, and you may want to update the look of your space with modern fixtures.

Energy Efficiency: Upgrading to energy-efficient LED pot lights can reduce your electricity bills and carbon footprint.

Functionality Issues: If your pot lights are flickering or not illuminating properly, it may be time for a replacement.

Step-by-Step Guide to Pot Light Replacement

Step 1: Gather Your Tools and Materials

Before starting the replacement process, gather the necessary tools and materials. Here’s what you’ll need:

New pot lights or pot light bulbs

Screwdriver (flathead or Phillips, depending on your fixtures)

Ladder (if the lights are in high ceilings)

Electrical tape

Wire connectors (if applicable)

Voltage tester (optional, but recommended for safety)

Step 2: Turn Off the Power

Safety should always be your top priority when working with electrical fixtures. Start by turning off the power to the pot lights at the circuit breaker. This ensures that you won’t accidentally electrocute yourself while working. It’s a good idea to use a voltage tester to double-check that the power is off before proceeding.

Step 3: Remove the Existing Fixture

Carefully remove the existing pot light fixture. Depending on the type of pot light you have, this may involve:

Pulling Down the Trim: If you have a trim that snaps into place, gently pull it down. If it’s secured with screws, use your screwdriver to remove them first.

Disconnecting Wires: Once the trim is removed, you will see the pot light housing. Carefully disconnect the wires by unscrewing the wire connectors. Be sure to remember which wires go where, or take a photo for reference.

Step 4: Install the New Pot Light

Once the old fixture is removed, it’s time to install the new pot light. Here’s how:

Connect the Wires: If your new pot light has different wiring, connect the wires according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Typically, you will connect the black (hot) wire to the black wire of the pot light, the white (neutral) wire to the white wire, and the green or bare wire (ground) to the grounding wire.

Secure the Connections: Once the wires are connected, use wire connectors to secure them. Wrap electrical tape around the connections for added safety.

Insert the New Fixture: Gently push the new pot light into the ceiling opening. If it has clips, make sure they engage properly to hold the fixture in place.

Attach the Trim: Finally, attach the trim piece to the pot light fixture. Depending on the model, this may involve snapping it into place or securing it with screws.

Step 5: Turn the Power Back On

Once everything is securely in place, return to the circuit breaker and turn the power back on. Test your new pot light to ensure it’s working correctly.

Pot Light Bulb Replacement

If you’re only replacing the bulb rather than the entire fixture, the process is even simpler. Here’s how to replace your pot light bulb:

Turn Off the Power: As with fixture replacement, turn off the power to the pot lights at the circuit breaker.

Remove the Trim: Gently pull down the trim to access the bulb. Depending on your pot light model, you may need to twist or unscrew the trim to remove it.

Replace the Bulb: Carefully remove the old bulb and replace it with a new one. Ensure you’re using the correct wattage and type for your fixture.

Reattach the Trim: Once the new bulb is in place, reattach the trim securely.

Turn the Power Back On: Finally, turn the power back on at the circuit breaker and test the new bulb.

Final Thoughts

Pot light replacement, whether it involves the entire fixture or just the bulb, can significantly enhance the lighting in your home. By following this step-by-step guide, homeowners can efficiently replace their pot lights, ensuring their spaces remain bright and welcoming. Whether you’re upgrading to energy-efficient LEDs or simply refreshing your decor, the right pot lights can elevate the ambiance of any room.

If you’re unsure about performing electrical work yourself, it’s always best to consult with a licensed electrician. They can provide expertise and ensure the job is done safely and correctly. With the right approach, pot light replacement can be a straightforward DIY project that enhances the beauty and functionality of your home.