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mrfog6 · 5 years ago

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katewalton · 7 years ago

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Trying a low-carb diet in Jakarta, despite loving Indonesian food

Note: I couldn’t find a home for this, so I’m just putting it up on my blog instead. All photos are my own.

Indonesians love carbohydrates. Rice in particular, but also noodles, cassava, corn, sweet potatoes, taro, sago... the list goes on. Almost every meal involves a huge portion of carbohydrates with a significantly smaller amount of vegetables and protein on the side. Sometimes, noodle dishes such as stir-fried vermicelli or egg noodles are even eaten as the side dish to rice.

So when my GP back in Australia mentioned I needed to lose weight, she suggested trying a low-carb diet. She told me to eat as few carbohydrates as possible, and cut out all sugars, including tropical fruits, and after six weeks, I could lose as much as 10cm from around my waist. It sounded like a good idea to me, so my boyfriend and I agreed to give it a try.

I moved to Indonesia at the end of 2011, first living in a small town in Sulawesi for a year, then moving to Jakarta. I’ve been there ever since. Jakarta is a hot, humid, smoggy metropolis with a population of around 10 million people. Walking is not only unpleasant but also difficult: footpaths are generally in a state of disarray, obstacles designed to stop motorbikes from using sidewalks are everywhere, and street-based sexual harassment just never seems to end. This means while I still try to walk as much as possible, I walk nowhere near as much here as I would do in Australia. Also, I hate the gym and refuse to go.

The Indonesian diet is also not only carb-heavy but oil- and sugar-heavy, too. Iced tea is served sweeter than soft drink, and snacks are often deep-fried. Much of this is to do with the fact that many people live on or below the poverty line; carbs are cheap and filling, while meat is expensive, especially beef. All of this ultimately led to me putting on around 15kg over the six years since first moving to Indonesia.

This is my experience trying a low carb diet in Indonesia. Your mileage may vary. It should be noted I’m not working full-time right now, so I have time to cook low-carb meals, which you may or may not be able to do. Also, I plan to return to eating carbs after six-to-eight weeks, as there is frankly just too much delicious food around to not do so.

Day 1: Monday

8am: I rifle through the cupboard, trying to find something for breakfast that doesn’t contain carbs. I find a half a packet of almonds, and scoff a handful down with a cup of milk tea.

9.15am: Arrive at a seminar on the new draft Criminal Code, only to be met by platters of cake and deep-fried snacks. I valiantly ignore them and have two cups of jasmine tea, no sugar. I feel smug.

12.30pm: Leave the seminar, still feeling smug but also very, very hungry. No time for lunch as I have to meet a friend for coffee at 1.30pm on the other side of town.

2.00pm: Make it to the coffee shop. Order what is described as a ‘grilled chicken and green leaf salad’, only to get some sort of Caesar salad filled with croutons and topped with a deep-fried breadcrumbed egg. The ‘greens’ are iceberg lettuce, and are covered in mayo. I hate mayo. I reluctantly eat a few mayo-drowned leaves and pick out the chicken. I have an iced chai to make me feel better (no sugar).

6.00pm: Starving. I didn’t think this through very well. Cook spiced chicken with a kind of chana masala, Indian chickpeas with pumpkin and spinach. I feel full for about half an hour then feel hungry again. Damn it.

7.00pm: Make some chia puddings with coconut milk (no sugar) for breakfast.

9.30pm: Boyfriend gets home from work, and eats his portion of dinner. We are both starving. We eat the chia puddings and make new ones for breakfast.

Day 2: Tuesday

8.30am: Chia pudding with blueberries, raspberries, and almonds for breakfast. I feel like such a bule (white person), eating all this unusual food. Also, berries are bloody expensive in Jakarta and I remember why I never buy them.

11.00am: Discuss lunch plans and go shopping. Buy every vegetable in sight including two ginormous bags of carrots for snacks.

1.00pm: Cook a green curry with beef, pumpkin, sugar snap peas, eggplant, and baby corn. Stare lovingly at the 5kg bag of rice on the shelf while waiting for the curry to cook.

1.30pm: I feel full but unsatisfied. Something is missing.

3.00pm: Eat a few fistfuls of carrot sticks while trying to come up with pitches to cover the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival in October. Get distracted looking at the food-related events rather than the speakers’ list.

6.00pm: Head out to go to an evaluation meeting for an event our community ran in August. Everyone brings food to share: JCo doughnuts (my fave!), pizza, bento boxes. Someone even makes a lemon drizzle cake. I hate everyone.

6.30pm: Another volunteer arrives with bags full of KFC. Chicken!! I take out the rice, put it to the side, and eat my chicken. I stay strong and manage to refuse all the doughnuts and slices of cake being passed around, even though it makes me want to cry. I love cake.

10.00pm: I get home to a very hungry boyfriend, who is over the moon when I present him with some KFC. I have a cup of tea.

Day 3: Wednesday

8.00am: Wake up feeling good. I can do this!

8.30am: Get out of bed and feel ravenous as soon as I stand up. Bugger.

9.30am: Cook a big breakfast with omelettes, bacon, sausages, mushrooms, and spinach. I hate eggs but force myself to eat them. (My mum hates them too; maybe it’s genetic?)

11.30am: We make a meal plan for the rest of the week, including the weekend. Decide to try making cauliflower rice this evening, as we are both craving rice like crazy.

12.30pm: Hungry again. My online order of roasted almonds hasn’t been delivered yet, so we have a small piece of dark chocolate each to keep us going.

3.00pm: Boil a huge bag of fresh edamame, which are very cheap, thanks to a large Japanese population in Jakarta.

6.00pm: Make a chicken, cashew, and vegetable stirfry. Cashews are oddly expensive in Indonesia, even though some regions such as Southeast Sulawesi grow literally tonnes of them. They must get exported instead. Eat it with cauliflower rice, which is shockingly delicious.

Day 4: Thursday

8.30am: Wake up feeling… surprisingly not hungry at all. Eat a chia pudding with some berries and almonds anyway before going to a meeting, where I drink only plain jasmine tea.

12.30pm: Heat up leftover stirfry and cauliflower rice from the night before. Three cacao-coated cashews for dessert.

2.30pm: Iced latte while working from a café. I try to ignore everyone eating rice and bread around me.

6.30pm: Cook Chinese tofu, eggplant and broccoli stirfry for dinner while chatting to a new kost mate. She is newly-married and impressed with my cooking skills. I tell her the secret: black vinegar.

8.00pm: Craving something sweet, so I have a kiwi fruit, which the internet has told me is comparatively low in carbs.

Day 5: Friday

8.30am: Chia pudding with berries and almonds.

12.30pm: Leftover stirfry. I barely feel hungry even before having lunch and don’t even want to kill anybody! This seems to be working.

2.00pm: Hang out with a friend for around three hours. She’s staying in a hotel with minimum facilities so I can’t even have a cup of tea with milk for a snack.

5.00pm: Ravenous. NOW I want to kill somebody. Anybody will do. Catch a motorbike taxi back to the kost from my friend’s hotel and almost cry whenever we drive past street food vendors. I get particularly distracted by a stall selling mie ayam pangsit – noodles with chicken and wantons – but convince myself to keep going.

5.30pm: Supermarket. Buy foodstuffs for dinner and, er, six pork gyoza. I scarf three of them down and leave the other three for my boyfriend. There can’t be that many carbs in dumpling skins, can there?

6.30pm: Cook Korean pork and vegetable stirfry with gochujang sauce for dinner. It is scrumptious and suddenly I don’t even care that there is no rice to eat it with.

The results

On day six, I weigh myself shortly after waking up. Turns out I’ve lost 1.5 kilos in five days and feel great. I’m as shocked as anyone, and commit myself to continue for at least four weeks. I cook more eggs, bacon, mushrooms, and spinach for breakfast, and I find myself daydreaming about rice, gudeg (stewed jackfruit), and chicken curry while I cook… Damn it! Indonesian food is just way too tempting.

#food #jakarta #indonesia

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areagan5 · 8 years ago

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Unfortunately, I am incapable of sleeping well on a plane, despite my recent habit of napping instead of actually sleeping these last few days. Fortunately, that leaves plenty of time to attempt a coherent blogging experience. I will continue with my descent into Kota Tua, but as Indonesia was my first visit to a developing country, I would like to first list the things I found the strangest/most interesting about Indonesian culture:

Fun facts about Indonesia

Tissues are an all-purpose material. They are used as napkins, paper towels, toilet paper, and facial tissues

Toilets are quite strange (as you know)

Lines on the street are largely ignored

I would not recommend driving

They snack all the time – huge fan

The people are not fans of walking everywhere (understandable,I also dislike melting)

There aren’t many crosswalks, so if you want to cross the street you place your palm out to your side so that the cars will stop

I like to exclaim “The Almighty Palm Raise!” while performing this activity

Works for the most part, but there are some people who do not care (learned this the hard way)

They wave your bags with metal detectors upon entering malls and tie your bags in supermarkets as a shoplifting precaution

This doesn’t really apply to foreigners or it could also be the face of eternal confusion I wore over the first few days

They love taking pictures of white people

Some Indonesians are too poor to be able to travel, so they enjoy taking photos with foreigners. Quite frequently I may add

No matter what you do, if you are light-skinned, you WILL stand out

They don’t use knives; you will customarily be served a spoon & fork

Everyone wears jackets and jeans despite it being 10 million degrees outside

The deodorant market must be wildly successful

The people are some of the most hospitable beings I’ve ever met

Primary religion is Islam so I’d reconsider wearing those spaghetti straps ladies

Their ginger beer and guava juice are amazing

Breakfast is normally meats and rice and veggies versus eggs and cereal

They are big fans of spicy food

*disclaimer: I am no Indonesian expert and speak based on my experience in the Java region.

Kota Tua and the night my phone ran away

Monday we were introduced to our groups and the topics we would be addressing in our joint studio workshop the next week and a half. However, before any research was to be done, we took a tour in the historic section – and poorer – of Jakarta and I will be honest, a lot of our tour was not pretty, but it is important to keep an open mind and put aside your Western way of thinking. I will also note that my outfit while cute and still fairly light and airy, did not save me from the real-world sauna session I was to soon experience. I don’t believe even Tarzan’s loin cloth would have provided him any relief from the heat – were he a) real and b) had a craving for Indonesian food.

Anyhow, after a train ride into the we arrived in an open square where after noticing a few boys staring at my unfortunately rather pale skin, experienced my first photo request. Assuming they wanted Iliana and I to take a photo of them, I became quote baffled when the boy didn’t hand us the phone and instead kept incessantly waving his hand. Thankfully, one of the Indonesian students pulled my incompetent self to the side and explained things to me while Iliana happily posed for her glamour shot. The group itself looked quite suspicious itself as we were a relatively large group of people consisting of Indonesians, Chinese, Americans, British, and a Colombian (our dear Iliana). We were essentially a beacon of nonconformity. Likely blinded by the abnormal amount of light skin in our group – I like to imagine some of us with lighter skin were sparkling in the sun like the vampires from Twilight – we were approached by the local tourist/government agency thing who ran tours of the Jakarta History Museum who invited us inside to give a brief presentation. The presentation was of course accompanied by cute snack boxes and then two of the guides joined our tour group, giving us easier access to certain areas of historic/public significance. We encountered many guards along our journey, and if my tired mind recalls correctly, they were there to protect certain public buildings from street vandalizers/hoodlums/whippersnappers or whatever term fits your fancy.

Two main things stood out on this tour: 1) the stark contrast in buildings and b) the trash. When looking at a panorama or simply walking throughout the city you could see skyscrapers, old Dutch colonial buildings, and “informal” buildings of the slums all in one glance. Don’t worry, the center of the city is quite nice, but this area was just as much an important, if not a more significant, face of the city. The most notable part of the tour was the trash. With a little imagination, one could see how the old part of the city was once dominated by a beautiful canal system, with streets bustling with goods coming in from the Harbor and far lands beyond. Today, sadly the water is full of trash, multiple mounds of trash forming walls to block the continuous flow of the river. There is so much trash in the water, there are even people who live on the trash. This would cause any person lucky enough to be born in a more developed part of the world take another look at their own lives and how many things we take for granted. Long our tour we also visited some Kampungs along the water’s edge. The community we visited was fairly separated from the main streets of the city and lined a slightly cleaner body of water (likely due to the community’s efforts) on a fairly wide street filled with people of all ages. There was a very basic ferry system allowing for transport across the river by a simple raft and rope connecting the two sides. I found the skill of the residents quite impressive. There had recently been a project where the community worked with UI to improve their streets by moving back their homes 5 feet (themselves) and paint some of their homes to create a more pleasant environment. Some people with my background may find the neighborhoods to have a poor quality of life, but I found these areas quite pleasant. The people obviously cared about one another and the lives they had quite literally built for themselves.

After much walking we ended the night in a nice restaurant on the street near the plaza. You can also get a tattoo on the quite non-sterile street if you prefer to live your life on the edge. Then came a long train ride home where many of us were trying to cope with the jet lag coma threatening to take over. You may be wondering if my phone had abandoned me yet, as pick pocketing is not that uncommon in the area we visited. However, my phone had not abandoned me yet. Unfortunately, this still means I do not have any pictures of my own from this day, but I did manage to snag a few from other’s phones and cameras:

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The woman next to me on the plane is gradually nudging my arm off the rest so I will attempt to make the rest of this brief. Iliana and I went to the mall once again, since our suitcases were still being held hostage by the airline. It was upon our return home in a taxi that my phone left me for another. I had gotten out of the cab and had maybe walked ten steps when I realized I did not have my phone. I twirled myself around only to watch as the taxi drove off, too far to have a dramatic movie moment in which I would sprint and thrust myself onto the trunk of the taxi man’s car. After my dramatic experience with the front desk who likely only understood half of what I was even saying, I also realized in horror I had been lucky enough to get a taxi driver who did not give us a receipt and as a result I had no way of knowing who had my phone. So if you ride on a taxi make sure to note the taxi number, the name of the driver, and for goodness sake always ask for a receipt.

To avoid ailing myself with permanent carpal tunnel, I will cut off here. In the next installment of my wonderful Indonesia trip that was so far kicking me firmly in the ass, I will bargain for a new phone and defile an innocent trash can. Until next time, Ciao!

Plane Ride Thoughts & The Long Awaited Photos Unfortunately, I am incapable of sleeping well on a plane, despite my recent habit of napping instead of actually sleeping these last few days.

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