#Slide Fasteners Tester

[gester-tester]

Zipper Fatigue Tester GT-C39A Zipper Testing Machine

[reevesaisah]

Instructions - Ceiling Fan Installation

CEILING FAN INSTALLATION SAFETY REQUIREMENTS

Adhere to the following safety requirements to minimize the risk of personal injury and property damage

•           Turn off the electricity at the circuit breaker box before you begin.

•           Ensure that the installation site is free of obstructions.

•           Select an outlet box from the UL list that is labeled "Acceptable for Fan Support."

•           Inspect electrical connections to ensure they comply with local legislation and the National Electrical Code.

•           The manufacturer's instructions provide additional caution, safety, and warning information.

TOOLS FOR CEILING FAN INSTALLATION RECOMMENDED

You've discovered the best ceiling fan in Melbourne's Eastern Suburbs, the ideal size, style, and quality, and you can't wait to unwind and enjoy the gentle breeze. As you prepare to install the new ceiling fan, here are some essential items to keep in your toolbox for any application. When installing a ceiling fan, having the proper tools assures a safe and efficient job.

The following tools are required to install ceiling fans.

Crescent Wrench: Also known as an adjustable wrench, a crescent wrench features a set screw that enables the twist's breadth to be modified by sliding one of the two jaws to the right or left. With a crescent wrench, tighten a support brace or any other fasteners.

With a cordless drill equipped with a long bit, it drills holes in a range of materials. With a cordless drill, attach the junction box or utility box to the ceiling joists.

Voltage Tester: A voltage tester, frequently referred to as a test light, is a device that utilizes two leads to determine the presence of electricity in a fixture. When wiring a ceiling fan, use a voltage tester with one end connected to the ground wire and the other to the hot wire to ensure no energy passes through these wires.

Strippers/Wire Cutters – Also known as diagonal pliers, wire cutters cut wire by indenting and wedging it apart. Wire strippers are machines that de-isolate the ends of cables. Manufacturers of hand tools frequently sell wire cutters and strippers combined. These tools are used to cut and strip the ceiling fan wires during the downrod assembly process while installing a ceiling fan.

Pliers – Firmly secure an object in place. Tighten set screws and lock nuts using pliers during the downrod installation.

Screwdrivers are hand tools used to turn or drive screws. The most often used screwdriver kinds are flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers. To minimize wobbling or shake, use a screwdriver to tighten and secure the screws on the motor housing and blades. Certain brands include a screwdriver in the package.

Electrical tape, alternatively referred to as insulating tape, is used to secure electrical wires and other conductor materials. Electrical tape, which is pressure-sensitive and flexible, provides long-lasting insulation. Electrical tape should be used to insulate any wire connections.

A ladder is required to reach the mounting bracket, hang the motor assembly, and wire the ceiling fan. If your ceiling is 9 feet or higher, choose a 5-foot stepladder. If your ceiling is 12 feet or higher, choose an 8-foot stepladder. If your ceiling is 15 feet or higher, choose an 11-foot stepladder.

Dusk Mask: Protects your lungs from dust and other debris while designing, installing, or cleaning a ceiling fan.

Safety Glasses: Shield your eyes from hazardous materials and flying debris throughout the installation operation.

[cityboyaisha]

Ceiling Fan Installation Guide

CEILING FAN SAFETY REQUIREMENTS FOR INSTALLATION

To reduce the risk of personal injury and property damage, follow the safety guidelines outlined below:

•        Turn off the power at the circuit breaker box before you begin.

•        Clear any obstructions from the installation site.

•        On the UL list, select an outlet box labeled "Acceptable for Fan Support."

•        Ensure that the electrical connections are following local legislation and National Electric Codes.

•        The manufacturer's instructions provide additional caution, safety, and warning information.

TOOLS RECOMMENDED FOR CEILING FAN INSTALLATION

You've located the best ceiling fan in Melbourne, the right size, style, and quality, and you can't wait to relax and enjoy the gentle breeze. As you prepare to install the new ceiling fan, here are some essential items to keep in your toolbox for every application. Having the right equipment on hand when installing a ceiling fan assures a safe project and rapid completion.

You will need the following tools to install ceiling fans.

Crescent Wrench: Also known as an adjustable wrench, a crescent wrench has a set screw that allows the width of the twist to be modified by sliding one of the two jaws to the right or left. Using a crescent wrench, tighten any fasteners or support braces.

A cordless drill with a long bit is used to drill holes in a variety of materials. Using a cordless drill, attach the junction box or utility box to the ceiling joists.

Voltage Tester: A voltage tester, often known as a test lamp, is a device that detects the presence of electricity in a fixture by using two leads. When wiring a ceiling fan, use a voltage tester with one probe on the ground wire and the other on the hot wire to ensure no electricity flows through these wires.

Wire Cutters/Strippers — Wire cutters, also known as diagonal pliers, cut wire by indenting and wedging it apart, as the name implies. Wire strippers are equipment that removes the electrical insulation from cable ends. Hand tool makers frequently sell wire cutters and strippers combined. During the downrod assembly to install a ceiling fan, use these tools to cut and strip the ceiling fan wires.

Pliers – Firmly hold an object in place. Tighten set screws and lock nuts using pliers during downrod assembly.

Screwdrivers are tools used to turn or drive screws. The most common screwdriver kinds are flat-head screwdrivers and Philips screwdrivers. Tighten and secure the screws on the motor housing and blades with a screwdriver to prevent wobbling or to shake. Some brands may include a screwdriver in the package.

Insulating tape, often known as electrician's tape, secures electrical wires and other conductor materials. Electrical tape, which is both pressures sensitive and flexible, provides long-lasting insulation. All wire connections should be insulated using electrical tape.

To reach the mounting bracket, hang the motor assembly, and wire the ceiling fan, need a ladder. Choose a 5-foot stepladder if your ceiling is 9 feet or higher. Choose an 8-foot stepladder if your ceiling is 12 feet or higher. Choose an 11-foot stepladder if your ceiling is 15 feet or higher.

Dusk Mask: Keeps dust and other debris out of your lungs while constructing, installing, or cleaning a ceiling fan.

Safety Glasses: Protect your eyes during the installation procedure from hazardous materials and flying debris.

[adrenalineguide]

Volkswagen Jetta Execline: VW’s Best Selling Vehicle Costs What!

Words and Pics by Michael Hozjan

What constitutes a good car? That’s a question you’ll want to avoid at the dinner table. I suspect the most popular answer will be horsepower. But I’ve had loads of fun with cars that had less than 70 horses pulling them - as evidenced by the photo below – that’s me with a whopping 40 horses under my feet long before Bo and Luke Duke were jumping cars. More recently I drove a Honda Beat. If you’re not familiar with the Beat it’s a two seat mid-engine roadster powered by a 63 hp, 656 cc three-cylinder driving the rear wheels. I had a bigger grin on my face and a whole lot more fun with that little car than with some big buck steroid powered sports cars. So while horses can help you get around, they don’t necessarily make a car good or mean less fun.

Comfort and gas mileage are paramount in most people’s heads and I will agree they can make or break even the best rides.  

Of course handling is also on top of my list and again the little Honda with its mid engine layout was a hoot in the corners, and the smallest driver’s car that I’ve ever driven. Now there’s a term you don’t hear anymore, driver’s car. These days it’s more about parking aides and media apps. How did we survive before?

Maybe I should ask what doesn’t make a car good. I’m certain THAT would be an easier topic around the dinner table without the risk of anybody getting stabbed with a fork. In my last blog I wrote about the Ascent’s incessant seat belt buzzer. It’s a big factor as I’m trying to keep my blood pressure down and a spoiler any day of the week. Let’s face it in the real world there are times when you just don’t fasten your seatbelt, like to move the car 50 or 100 feet.  

What does all this have to do with this week’s tester? Read on. After the Subie’s ding, ding, ding, ding (get the idea…it never stops), you can imagine how relieved I was to hear the Jetta’s seat belt buzzer go off in just a few feet.

No the seat belt buzzer didn’t make the Jetta a great car but it certainly got it off on the right foot. (I can hear the bigwigs around the boardroom table at VW now, “First time we get a thumbs up for a seat belt buzzer…”)  

I lived in Montreal when Volkswagen introduced the Jetta in 1979. The Giorgetto Giugiaro designed sedan quickly gained popularity and notoriety for its good looks, and its dependable, bulletproof diesel engine, especially among taxi drivers. It may have been slow on take off but a miser at the pumps and sold millions worldwide.

Three years into its seventh generation, today’s sleek Jetta rides on the award-winning MQB platform and though may look far removed from the angular first gen car, it remains a no nonsense, inexpensive, fuel sipping driver’s car that gives great value for your hard earned buck.

The Jetta has always maintained its own style over the years and so like the first generation car, the latest version has a classy timeless design that will look smart long after the competitions’ kid racer looks have faded, and I might add more than one competitor is emulating.  

Three trim lines make up Volkswagen’s least expensive car with the entry level Comfortline starting at a mere $21,595. Yes you read that right. No bare bones ride here, you get cloth seating, a 6.5” touchscreen, automatic LED headlights that light up when you’re approaching and/or leaving the vehicle, vehicle immobilization and an alarm. Next up the corporate ladder is the Highline at $25,495, like the Comfortline it’s available with either a 6-speed manual (yes!) or an 8-speed automatic with Tiptronic. The Highline adds blind sport monitoring and rear traffic alert, keyless entry, push button start, power sunroof and vinyl seats. Sadly the top tier Execline comes only with the automatic trans. So if you want to have your tush planted on leather, you can’t have a manual. But, you do get ventilated seats, a heated steering wheel, Bluetooth, and a digital gauge cluster. You also get the Beats Audio sound system that comes with 8-speakers and a subwoofer to keep your road tunes sounding great.  

Alas the old dependable diesels are gone - don’t get me started on that - gone too is the trusty old 2.0L mill. The sole motivation comes from a 1.4L TSI turbocharged inline 4 cylinder that dishes out 147 horses. No I’m not going dune jumping with the Jetta, and yes some of its competitors have more horses pulling them around, still the little 1.4L gets the 4-door sedan around town quite nicely thank you and with our posted speed limits, passing tractor trailers on the highway is a breeze. I’d go with the 6-speed manual to get the most smiles per mile. While you get a choice of driving profiles, I left my Execline’s primarily in ECO mode to see how much mileage I could eek out of the gas tank (6.2L/100kms).

One thing about Volkswagens is that their handling is very predictable and the Jetta is no exception. Electronic stability control is standard across the trim lines and while you’re not buying into a big buck German sports sedan, you are getting a competent family hauler that will not embarrass you.  

The Jetta’s clean and sophisticated exterior design continues into the cabin where driver and passengers are treated to a generous amount of leg and elbowroom with excellent outward visibility. My pyrite silver metallic Execline had customizable wrap around ambient interior lighting, so you can switch it depending on your mood. I’m usually not a fan of digital cockpits, they just look too one-dimensional. But my tester’s had me thinking otherwise. The high-resolution thin film transistor (TFT) display made me a believer.

The dash is clean and uncluttered with large dials for the climate controls. It’s also refreshing to see a sedan with an in-dash infotainment screen and not the after thought billboards that we’re seeing more and more of. Regular readers know that I don’t bother mentioning Apple CarPlay and Android Auto anymore as its standard on everything except skate boards these days, what differentiates the Jetta is that it’s wireless now and that includes their MirrorLink connectivity.

As you know I’m always on the look out for features that will make my winter driving easier and/or more comfortable. Well the VW scores with heated washer nozzles and of course the cleanest back up camera around regardless of the weather. With my Execline I was able to pamper my front and back seat passengers with heated seats. The seats offer just enough bolstering to keep you from sliding out on those mountainous back country twisties.

For your weekend getaways there’s 14.1 cu.ft. of carrying space in the deep trunk and if you need more, the 60/40 seat backs do fold down.

On a safety aspect, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) awarded the 2021 Jetta a five star rating. Let’s not forget that VW warranties the Jetta for four years/80,000 kms.

The Jetta is Volkswagen’s least expensive model, so if you want to get into a German engineered sedan without breaking the bank, you need not look any further. Of course if you absolutely, positively need to get from A to B quicker, fret not Volkswagen has not forgotten you, the sport-tuned Jetta GLI packing 228 horses comes in at $30,995. But that’s another story.

Price as tested: $28,995

[worldbestdiy]

Eliminating Ceiling Fan Noise DIY | DIY Projects | inspiring ideas DIY

Eliminating Ceiling Fan Noise DIY!

Eliminating Ceiling Fan Noise DIY | DIY Projects | inspiring ideas DIY Sometimes, the noise comes from loosened blades. Therefore, make sure that you tighten them properly using some screwdriver. Unsteady blades can wiggle from side-to-side to up-and-down. Screw them until blades are steady and fixed into the place. DIY Project Details: worldbestdiy.com.blog

In order to achieve the best results, check your blades every 6 months and make sure that they are tightened up.

If you don’t regularly maintain your ceiling fan, you’ll be able to notice clicking noise in a ceiling fan which is a clear indication that requires maintenance.

Make sure that the bulbs are screwed properly

Most ceiling fans have lightbulbs. Make sure that those bulbs are all steady and that they are not the reason for the noise.

If not properly fixed, bulbs can cause squeaking noise which is highly unpleasant. It comes from the screw thread that contacts wobble inside the base.

Fix them properly; tight those up with the screwdriver and you should not worry about the noise coming from this part of the ceiling fan.

Dirty blades can cause a fan to wobble and shake because they throw the blades out of balance.

DIY Project Details: worldbestdiy.com.blog

Clean both sides of the blades with a dust cloth or, if necessary, a slightly damp cloth or paper towel.

The topsides will much dirtier than the bottom sides. Dry any moisture from the blades right away.

Many are made from wood composite or particleboard materials that are easily damaged by water.

While you’re cleaning the blades, make sure that each blade is straight and not warped, damaged, or hanging lower than the other blades. If it’s hanging lower, try tightening it (see below) to correct the problem.

If this doesn’t work, or if the blade is warped or damaged, replace the blade with an exact match from the fan’s manufacturer.

Warped, damaged, or loose blades can cause a fan to wobble and can be very hard on the motor and the fan mount.

Tighten the Blades, Several different parts can become loose on a ceiling fan and make things noisy.

DIY Project Details: worldbestdiy.com.blog

The first parts to check are the blades—where they mount to their brackets and where the brackets mount to the rotating part of the fan’s motor assembly.

Blades may be fastened to the brackets with screws or with another type of fastening system, such as keyholes that fit over pins or studs on the bracket.

The brackets usually fasten to the motor unit with screws or bolts. Tighten screws or bolts with a screwdriver or wrench, as needed.

Tighten the Light Fixture Parts, If your fan has a light fixture, make sure all globes, shades, bulbs, and any other fixture parts are snug.

Most globes and shades are secured with thumbscrews and are easy to tighten by hand.

Don’t use tools on these, as you’re likely to overtighten the screws and possibly crack the glass.

DIY Project Details: worldbestdiy.com.blog

If tightening the fixture parts with their screws doesn’t get them snug, you can add a thick rubber band around the neck of the globe or shade, then reinstall it with the screws.

Fan manufacturers also sell sets of rubber “silencer” bands for the same purpose.

Tighten the Motor Cover, An intermittent noise or scraping noise may be caused by the fan’s blade brackets dragging on the fan shroud or motor housing cover.

Often you can remedy this by loosening the cover’s screws, slightly adjusting the position of the cover, and retightening the screws.

Also, make sure the blade brackets are tight (as described above) and not rubbing against the cover.

Assess a Wobbly Fan, Noisy ceiling fans are often wobbly ceiling fans, and wobbles can have a few different causes.

To diagnose your wobbly fan, first, make sure you’ve tightened everything up and have confirmed the blades are straight. Next, follow these steps to tighten the fan’s mounting screws.

DIY Project Details: worldbestdiy.com.blog

Turn off the power to the fan’s circuit by switching off the appropriate breaker in your home’s service panel (breaker box).

You’ll be working with a metal tool around wiring, so it’s not safe enough to simply turn off the wall switch.

Loosen the screw(s) on the fan’s canopy cover, and slide the canopy down from the ceiling.

Test for power in the fan’s wiring, using a non-contact voltage tester, to make sure the power is off.

DIY Project Details: worldbestdiy.com.blog

Tighten the screws securing the fan’s mounting bracket to the electrical box in the ceiling, using a screwdriver.

If the screws are loose at all, this is likely the source of your wobble woes.

Check the box by gripping the mounting bracket and trying to move it from side to side. The box should be rock-solid and allow no movement.

If the box moves, see if there’s a nut that tightens the box against its mounting brace (secured to the ceiling framing) or check for screws that fasten the box directly to the framing.

DIY Project Details: worldbestdiy.com.blog

If the box flexes (usually because it’s plastic and the wrong type of box) or if it’s not mounted to a brace or the ceiling framing, you’ll have to remove the fan and install a new ceiling-fan-rated box.

Chances are, an improperly installed box is not the right type of box, to begin with; better to start over.

Reinstall the canopy cover and restore power to the fan. Test the fan for wobble. If it still wobbles, try balancing the blades.

DIY Project Details: worldbestdiy.com.blog

[techsiteworld]

Top 6 cool keychains for backpack Gadgets-2019 https://tech.siteworld.in

1. Bactrack Keychain

Product Details The BACtrack Keychain device could be a revolutionary transportable device that takes size and movability to successive level. The BACtrack Keychain device could be a absolutely purposeful breath alcohol tester with an interior alcohol device, folding breath tube, and even nonobligatory mouthpieces. You can quickly and simply estimate your BAC, Blood Alcohol Content, by processing through the mouthpiece for five seconds.cool keychains for backpack Never before includes a device had correct alcohol sensing technology in an exceedingly style this little and reasonable. You can take the merchandise everyplace and take a look at yourself, friends, family, or anyone World Health Organization is inquisitive about their Blood Alcohol Content. The innovative folding mouthpiece pulls out throughout testing and slides go into reverse throughout storage – it’s that easy! Everyone can wish to check themselves whether or not you’re at a celebration, bar, restaurant, or anyplace else alcohol is consumed. Learn how drinking alcohol affects your Blood Alcohol Content and continuously build sensible, up on selections. And you'll be able to trust the BACtrack Keychain device attributable to BACtrack’s history and knowledge with personal and skilled alcohol breathalyzers

Features:- Advanced MicroCheck sensing element Technology – BACtrack’s proprietary sensing element technology delivers reliable, correct BAC results you'll be able to trust.Ultra-Compact style – Fits within a handbag or pocket and may be simply used as a keychain.Warm-up time is 11-13 seconds. Battery life is approximately 150 testsEffective Breath Capture – The innovative fold-out mouthpiece ensures solely your breath goes into the device, whereas close air, fumes, and different mobile gases area unit unbroken out.cool keychains for backpack

2. Virtual Keyboard Keychain

Product Details This projection keyboard optical maser and infrared technology to project a typewriter keyboard on any flat surface. The optical maser Keyboard connects to your desktops, laptops, and Bluetooth enabled devices, and comes with multi-touch mouse perform that supports two-finger gestures. Compact, light-weight, it's straightforward to hold, excellent for conferences or business journeys.for cool keychains for backpack Try Other Relevant Tools

Features:- Portable and lightweight for easy carryingquick and correct knowledge input and English QWERTY keyboard layoutCompatible with all Windows XP / visual image / seven / eight, Windows Phone seven, iOS four / five / six, Android 3.1 and higher than, Mac OS XVirtual optical device keyboard with the lasted electrical device, will track the finger of user and sight the inputBuilt-in 700mAh lithium-ion rechargeable battery.

3. Austin Multi Function Keychain

Product Details Dimensions: approximately 3.1 x 1.75 x 0.75 inches Comes in color blue Features a built-in flashlight Large LCD display Battery and instructions included Imported from USA This cute blue mini lookout displays the weather, time, date and more!!! It also has an alarm clock, a built-in compass and a fastener that makes this little contraption terribly helpful for outside adventures.

4. Electronic Device Defense Security-Alarm

Product Details Easy Use simply pull the metal pin for up to 1 0.5 hour of loudest siren alarm, which might be hear up to three hundred feet away unceasingly. Versatility Its sleek modern and smart design make it the most user friendly one for women, kids, elderly, night workers, joggers, etc. Durability top quality alarm body with scientific style ensures its usefulness and your safety once in your most emergency conditions. Power to be used Four standardized LR44 batteries enclosed within the package square measure all it has to keep it going with straightforward use steps for emergency use Ideal Gift This cute moveable personal alarm is a perfect option to offer as a present. Practical designed alarm may be hardly detected by attackers or others.

Features:- Best loud 135DB Strident panic alarm & disguised as a bag decorationConvenient keychain style is ideal together with house keys and automobile keysBright semiconductor diode lightweight appropriate for illuminating a dark path or finding a holeFour LR44 batteries enclosed in package and similar for sensible usageHigh quality products and 30 day money back guarantee for your satisfaction.

5. keychain Headphone-Splitter

Product Details

Features:- KEY style : style galvanized by utilizing the additional area on your keychain. SHARING IS CARING : Listen through one in all the 2 terminals victimisation earphones (3.5mm) and share the opposite with an acquaintance. IMPACT RESISTANT : Thermo Plastic material (TPE) is employed to form a sturdy, impact resistant product. CONVENIENCE : The elago Keyring Splitter may be simply secured and transported. COMPACT : simply fitting in one’s hand, the elago Keyring Splitter may be applied with none trouble and removed even as quickly. It is light weight, weighing roughly 8 grams.

6. Flip-SYNC Keychain 

Product Details The Flip-SYNC Keychain Cable Attaches to your keychain to handily charge & synchronize your MP3, great phone, cell phone, photographic camera, recreation device & far additional.

Features:- Attaches to your keychain USB 2.0 for quickest knowledge transfer doable Invariably have your cable with you Full sized USB. Read the full article

[max-lucy-blog1]

zipper reciprocating tester

What's the Zipper Tester used for?

Zipper Reciprocation Tester, to determine the resistance to reciprocation of zipper (slide fastener). The test specimen is subject to a specified number of cyclic operations whilst under lateral and longitudinal tension.

Zipper Tester catches the head of zipper to do reciprocating movement in a constant speed for 30 times per minute. Integral counter is set to stop the drive when a pre-selected count has been reached.

Equipped with a sensor so that the machine will stop automatically before the zipper is broke. Adjustable stoke 40~100mm is offered as request.

Do you want to know more about the Zipper Tester ?

Specifications

Speed: 30/min

0-10 Kg lateral force.

0-5 Kg longitudinal force

Counter: 1-999,999times,adjustable

Want to know more of Zipper Tester ? Please click：

http://www.testextextile.com/product/zipper-tester-tf150/

Our E-mail: sales@tes.hk

[itsworn]

How to ditch your points-triggered Delco ignition and easily install a PerTronix Ignitor electronic system

In this age of electronic fuel injection and ignition it’s hard to believe there are still some running around with a points-trigged ignition system. The concept of breaker-points ignition is all about storing large amounts of electricity and discharging it at just the right time to sync with an engine’s cylinder timing events.

The ignition coil is little more than a transformer, which converts electricity from one form, or value, to another. In this case, we’re taking 12-14 volts of electricity and changing it to 20,000-50,000 volts so it can jump a 0.035-inch spark plug gap. In order to discharge large amounts of current the ignition coil needs two circuits (primary and secondary) and a switching mechanism. The primary circuit consists of the positive and negative terminals on the coil. The secondary circuit consists of the positive terminal and the discharge terminal at the coil’s center, which goes to the distributor.

Ignition points open and close via the rotating distributor cam in time with the firing of each spark plug. When the points are closed a powerful field of electricity builds in the coil awaiting the moment when points open, discharging via the coil lead to the distributor to fire each spark plug. Ignition points do a pretty good job when they are fresh with plenty of lubrication at the rubbing block, clean contacts, and good spring tension. Problems abound when contact points become pitted and wear out. Performance suffers when this happens, typically leading to hard starting and misfires.

 PerTronix Performance Products conceived their breakerless electronic ignition system when it became clear motorists needed a solution to problematic ignition points. In fact, PerTronix was born of the need for an electronic ignition retrofit for industrial applications where engines rack up a lot of hours and go through a set of points in no time. PerTronix then developed quick-change electronic ignition retrofits for automotive applications—and the list of applications keeps growing.

 We’re working with Ted’s Carburetor Shop rebuilding a classic Delco distributor for small- and big-block Chevy applications. We’ve opted for the classic, original PerTronix Ignitor in black, which is the economical solution for enthusiasts on a budget who are tired of changing and gapping ignition points.

A Delco distributor rebuild and PerTronix upgrade is something you can do in your home garage or you can ship it off to Ted’s Carburetor where it will receive the close attention of Ted Granger, who rebuilds and curves thousands of these distributors every year.

The first thing Ted does when he receives a distributor is a close inspection to see what’s there to begin with. He looks for inappropriate and excessively worn parts. Ted gets a lot of already rebuilt distributors mindlessly thrown together by mass rebuilders encompassing the wrong parts and poor tuning. Ted’s job is to rebuild distributors employing all of the right parts and proper tuning. This square hole is a reference mark for the rotor. However, it is also a reference point for the distributor drive gear at the other end of the shaft. This hole and the gear reference dimple must be in alignment.

Here’s the dimple in the distributor drive gear that should be lined up with the hole at the top of the shaft in the advance head. Not all gears, especially aftermarket drive gears, will have this dimple. When there’s no dimple, you have to rely on the distributor gear tension pin and how it relates to the reference hole in the advance head.

Distributor shafts can be hard to get out of the housing due to carbon build-up and crud. Saturate the bushings and shaft with penetrating lubricant, then work the shaft back and forth aggressively until it comes free.

This is the mechanical advance limiter pin, which limits mechanical advance travel. It should have a bushing around it, which further limits travel and total timing. This one doesn’t have a bushing. Look to Summit Racing Equipment for a replacement bushing along with advance weights and springs, which come in kit form.

Here’s the distributor shaft and advance head. The advance head slides onto the shaft and is secured at the top. It works hand in hand with the flyweights and springs, which control spark timing as rpm increases. The vacuum advance goes to work when you start out. As vehicle and engine speed increase and intake manifold vacuum decreases, this mechanical advance mechanism goes to work giving us total advance above 3,000 rpm.

Breaker plate removal is next, beginning with the breaker points and condenser, which will not be used again.

The vacuum advance unit is retained with two machine screws. Vacuum has to be applied to the advance unit in order to move the breaker plate enough to remove this screw. You can also move the breaker plate with a screwdriver to get at this screw.

We’re removing the vacuum advance at this time, which will be replaced. Vacuum advance units go bad when the diaphragm tears, rendering the unit a throwaway.

The breaker plate, which is cycled by the vacuum advance unit, is retained with this C-clip mid-section. Once this C-clip is removed, the breaker plate comes right off. Be careful removing this C-clip. Wear eye protection and make sure the C-clip doesn’t go flying across your garage.

This is the Delco distributor’s lubrication pocket, which is packed full of grease to keep the shaft and bushings lubricated. We will fill this cavity with grease during assembly.

The PerTronix Ignitor comes with everything you’re going to need to get your Delco up and running. This is a Hall effect system where the reluctor ring, which contains eight magnets, fastens to the advance head. The reluctor revolves past the pick-up module mounted on the breaker plate, performing the same task as the ignition points. It works as an electronic switch to allow ignition coil saturation and discharge.

The first order of business is to fill the lubrication pocket with high-temperature wheel bearing grease, which is what Ted suggests. At high temperatures this grease flows to the bushings and shaft to provide lubrication. Engine oil works its way up the shaft to provide lubrication as well.

This felt ring is saturated with penetrating lube, providing lubrication to the bushings and shaft. This felt ring should be sprayed with lube every 25,000 miles.

PerTronix provided us with a new vacuum advance unit, which is installed as shown using two machine screws.

We’re installing the breaker plate at this time, attaching it to the vacuum advance arm. The C-clip is reinstalled to keep the breaker plate in place. Check the breaker plate for freedom of movement. If it doesn’t move you won’t get the benefit of vacuum advance.

Next, we’re mating the shaft and the advance head prior to installation in the housing.

The PerTronix reluctor ring is tied to the advance head and shaft at this time using two self-locking nuts provided in the kit.

The shaft and bushings have been lubricated with wheel bearing grease, which is very effective according to Ted.

The distributor shaft endplay is controlled by how many shims are installed between the drive gear and the housing. You want 0.025-0.030-inch endplay. Add shims to reduce endplay. Subtract shims to increase endplay.

The reluctor ring is secured at the advance head as shown here. We have one nut securing the reluctor for setup purposes. You will need both nuts installed and tightened before adjusting the air gap between the pick-up and the reluctor.

The PerTronix Ignitor pick-up module has been installed and secured. Make sure the pickup wires (red and black) are clear of the breaker plate and advance head.

Next are the mechanical advance flyweights and springs. Apply a thin film of grease between the flyweights and the advance head. Check them for freedom of movement.

We’re installing the distributor rotor to the advance head using the hardware provided by PerTronix. These locknuts are secured with a 3/8-inch socket. Do not overtighten or you will crack the rotor.

The air gap between the reluctor ring and the pick-up module is checked next. You want a 0.020-0.030-inch air gap, according to Ted. What you don’t want is contact between the two. PerTronix provides brass shim washers in the kit to adjust the air gap. We didn’t need any shims.

Ted checks every distributor with a run-up on this classic Sun distributor tester. Unless you’re modifying your engine with a hot cam and the like, stock mechanical advance springs will deliver a seamless advance path.

Our completed Delco distributor is ready for action thanks to PerTronix and Ted’s Carburetor. Ted stands behind every distributor build and is ready to take your call if there’s a problem. PerTronix also offers excellent customer service and tech support should you have any questions. PerTronix tells us one of the most common mistakes people make is forgetting to install the ground wire between the breaker plate and the housing, which yields no-start and rough running.

PerTronix is the best source for all ignition parts for classic Delco and late-model HEI ignition systems. We’re talking high-caliber ignition parts like this distributor cap and rotor, which offer brass construction for reduced corrosion and pitting, along with excellent conductivity.

Sources

PerTronix Performance Products 909.599.5955 pertronix.com

Ted’s Carburetor 661.943.2340

The post How to ditch your points-triggered Delco ignition and easily install a PerTronix Ignitor electronic system appeared first on Hot Rod Network.

from Hot Rod Network http://www.hotrod.com/articles/how-to-ditch-your-points-triggered-delco-ignition-and-easily-install-a-pertronix-ignitor-electronic-system/ via IFTTT

[olivereliott]

Design Your Own Custom Motorcycle Gear

You don’t need to be a rocket surgeon to know that one-offs float our boat around here. So why stop at the bikes? What about suiting up in custom gear, to go with your custom bike?

Today we’re looking at ways to get unique gear, and the companies that will make it for you. Find out how to create your own one-off motorcycle jacket, how to get leather pants as unique as a snowflake, and how to get a helmet that fits like a glove. It’s a cookie cutter world out there, so let’s stand out.

Custom motorcycle jacket by 55Collection I can barely draw a straight line, let alone stitch together pieces of animal hide. And yet I now wrap myself in a custom leather jacket of my own design. Of course I had help turning my muddled inceptions into a wearable result—but that process was easy. And the finished product, in my own humble opinion, is pretty damned sweet.

Barcelona-based 55Collection is a small but highly skilled collective of leather experts. On top of their own in-house collection of jackets, they have also developed a ‘Custom Works’ program for creating bespoke and tailored examples.

Since I don’t have a degree from Central Saint Martins, I leaned on the work of others to communicate my likes and dislikes. I sent over a few images of jackets that had styling elements I liked, and we morphed things together to develop a design direction.

Personally, I’ve always wanted something similar to Brando’s iconic Schott Perfecto from The Wild One, but wanted mine to have a more modern cut and added functionality. I spitballed ideas back and forth with company founder Aitor Gonzalez and, after a few emails, received a rendering based on 55Collection’s RCK jacket. It ticked my boxes, so I sucked in my gut and asked wifey to wield a measuring tape.

During the construction of my jacket, Aitor checked in with a few ideas and comments. We discussed pocket locations, zippers, textures and finishes, and made a few slight alterations along the way. Roughly six weeks later, my jacket was delivered and I was floored by how well it turned out. It’s since spent most of its time since on my back.

I realize that the design I chose [below] may not work for everyone. Chris thinks I’ve got an Adam Ant thing going on—which may or may not be a compliment—and Wes has stayed uncharacteristically mum. But that’s the beauty of Custom Works: you’re free to let your freak flag fly, as they say.

Personal aesthetics aside, 55Collection are making a stellar product. The stitching, inside and out, is strong and resilient. The leather is supple, smells amazing and feels thick enough to shrug off some rash.

The fitment is near perfect: I would have liked extra length in the arms, but that error falls solely on me. And even with the included D30 armor, nothing looks boxy or out of place. The break-in period was almost non-existent, and it’s stood up well in a myriad of weather conditions—although I did experience a wee bit of the oxblood dye bleeding after a mild soaking.

In the saddle, the sturdy YKK two-way zipper (Aitor’s recommendation) keeps the jacket nicely in place while the added brass snaps at the collar keep me from being smacked at speed. The pockets can be readily accessed with a gloved hand, and the shoulder area has great articulation to allow full range of movement.

The jacket’s insides are covered with a swanky, red satin liner that makes sliding in and out an absolute breeze. The only downside is that the liner is not removable, so things could get warm in summer months—unless you opt for perforations, like I did.

The armor pockets—two at the elbows, two at the shoulders and one at the back—seal with Velcro fasteners. They would be better if they were full length, but D30 bits come as standard for all spots, save for the back.

At roughly US$700 (€600) a custom jacket from 55Collection isn’t exactly inexpensive. But it does fall in line with other, off-the-rack, premium brands. And even if a bespoke design doesn’t interest you, there’s something to be said about wearing a motorcycle jacket that’s been tailored to fit. If you’re in the market, put 55Collection at the top of your list. [Buy]

Custom leather motorcycle pants by El Solitario I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again; leather pants aren’t for everyone. But a bespoke set of Rascals from El Solitario M.C. can be pretty sweet.

Unlike the jacket option from their countrymen at 55Collection, the customization process here is limited. If you want something even rarer than the standard Rascals, your task is to sort out the materials (leather or suede) and color ways that float your hide-lined boat. Then they’re applied to El Sol’s tried and true design. Your Pantone choices are near limitless, so it’s good to have something referential if a true color match is your goal. But, as you’d expect from the minds behind The Impostor BMW R nineT, nothing is considered too wild.

The goat hides used throughout are 1.4mm top grain Nappa leather, which delivers a flexible yet durable finish to these retro-inspired riding strides. A small Spanish atelier that runs operations in the neighboring Portuguese woods constructs each pair. A fact that should only be spread sparingly, to secure the finest of drink and wildest of hearts.

The zipped exterior armor pockets at the knees run a touch small for my D30 stuff but readily accommodate other CE-rated curves, and the hips feature additional padding. The leg openings are zipped as well, and finish high enough above the ankle to comfortably fit into a full height boot. Or easily slide over six-inch Red Wings. (If you’re like me and have longer limbs, make sure to ask for added length from the standard sizing.)

There are two zippered, diagonal pockets large enough to stash cash and EDC essentials, and a waistbelt to fine-tune the fit. Also included with the Rascals, whether bespoke or not, is a set of leather suspenders that I find to be the perfect accompaniment for these trousers.

Since the Nappa hides will eventually stretch out a bit, the suspenders should ensure continued fit. And, if you’re like me and find your waistline fluctuating from season to season, it means you can loosen the belt a notch or two without dropping trou.

In warmer climates, the quilted liner may prove to be a little steamy, but ever since fall arrived here in Toronto, I’ve been glad to have them. When the Rascals were first released, that liner was a classic Barbour-style tartan design that I wish still remained, but it’s since changed to plain navy. If you speak up in the early stages of construction, you may be able specify the tartan.

I can’t speak highly enough about the quality of materials used throughout the construction of the Rascal pants. The leather is absolutely flawless, with no variation in tone or texture. And the suede I had chosen for my side panels is as soft as a wolf cub’s belly. These are great leather pants that should last a lifetime, bespoke design or not. [Buy]

Vanguard FF helmet I wasn’t expecting much when I first slid my head into the Vanguard FF helmet. When something is designed and executed to look this pretty, performance usually takes a back seat. And while I won’t be shelving my ICON Airframe Pro or Schuberth anytime soon, I was pleasantly surprised.

Right off the hop and out of the packaging, this thing is gorgeous. The manufacturer is Veldt, based in the Isle of Man, and the Vanguard treatment on my Aluminum loaner model was exceptionally pretty. The carbon fiber shell was clearly visible through the glossy candy-coat, and the ‘aluminum’ portion is actually a metallic paint—but that isn’t a bad thing. Mixing mediums would compromise the structure, and the shell is extremely light as is.

The custom options for the Vanguard FF come in two different forms. First of all, you can adjust the fitment via removable pads in different sizes. If you need more support in the cheeks, front, back, or top of your head, this can be adjusted quickly and deliver a decent feel.

I say ‘decent’ only because my tester unit was an XL/XXL shell size—which is at least one ‘X’ and maybe even an ‘L’ bigger than I typically wear. Despite this, I was able to load up on padding to find a comfortable and stable fit. But make no mistake: that padding is for fine-tuning only. If you’re adding one to the collection, make sure it’s properly sized.

The more visible customization comes from the fact that the FF can go from a full-face to a three-quarter design, by simply unscrewing four titanium Allen bolts. Unlike Wes, I’m not a fan of letting my beard breathe freely at speed, so the modular appeal wasn’t big on me. But there are plenty of riders out there who would enjoy two options with one lid. And if you’re worried about safety, the Vanguard FF is both ECE and DOT approved.

The face shield is also removable, but I have reservations about its performance. It too attaches to the shell via titanium bolts, so the hinged area is not affixed to, well, anything. Those metallic rounds just kind of float in space, and avoid marking the shell thanks to soft touch padding below. The visor design also misses out on having a ratchet-action of any kind. That means it’s either up or down—and once you start moving at speed it’s down, whether you slam it or not.

This made me think the Vanguard FF was going to be noisy and cause lift at high speeds. Well—and here’s the surprising part—it isn’t noisy, and it didn’t lift. At least not compared to other similarly-styled lids. As a benchmark, I rode with my Bell Bullitt for a couple of hours before donning the Vanguard FF. The new kid on block was quieter, and I found less rattle coming from that shield too.

Venting was adequate, with eight different holes cut into the shell design. Those vents can’t be closed though, and even though the visor features a Pinlock design, you may experience fogging issues, depending on temperatures.

As an added option the Vanguard FF can be outfitted with an internal Bluetooth headset from Fusar. My demo unit was so equipped and, despite the lack of lows and mid-range common to most of these devices, the sound was decent. Even on my Thruxton, riding on the highway with its British Customs 2-into-1 race system.

The accompanying handlebar mounted remote is a nice touch, too: otherwise, control comes from buttons on the boom mic, which can be a bitch to get to on the roll.

Pricing on the Vanguard FF starts higher than just about every one of its peers, which may stop many of you in your tracks. But if you see the Vanguard FF (or its Veldt variant) as two helmets, that pill is a touch easier to swallow. If you also opt for the additional Fuser kit, things fall inline a little bit more.

If you’ve been thinking about a Bell Bullitt but haven’t yet pulled the trigger, give the Vanguard FF a second look. It may surprise you as much as it did me. [Buy]

Images: Supplied, Matt Neundorf and C. Merey.

[salebazarsblog]

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[kennesawgaragedoorrepair]

GARAGE DOOR WON’T OPEN OR CLOSE WITH REMOTE CONTROL

Your remote control has one job to do; open or close your garage door, whenever you need it done. Is that so much to ask? Not for most of the time, but once in a while that trusty remote just doesn’t seem to work. Have you noticed? It’s always at the wrong time! Maybe you are coming home during a rain storm and can’t wait to get inside where it’s dry and warm. Or, you might be trying to open your garage up to accept a furniture delivery. No matter what your reason, your garage door opener is expected to work on demand and with no issues. When it doesn’t it can throw your schedule (and your nerves) off! That’s why Kennesaw Garage Door Repair has put together this post. We are sure that you’ll find our opener remote tips helpful and easy to follow!

Your remote is NOT your opener!

You’d be surprised how many folks actually think that it is! Your remote control sends a signal to your opener system and tells it to open or close; that’s it. So if your opener stops working, you aren’t in for a complete opener replacement – you just need to make a few simple adjustments that are easy and not expensive.

Do this first

This one is a real “no-brainer” and the most logical choice for finding the cause of your non-working remote; the battery! Most people know this and will check the battery’s condition first. Use your home battery tester if you have one. If not, don’t stress, there’s an easy and free way to get it done. Simply take your remote battery to a nearby Kennesaw, GAWal-Mart, Home Depot, Lowe’s or Best Buy and they will test it for you on the spot while you wait. There’s no charge and no obligation to buy anything; it’s just a courtesy.

Ok, next!

Your next step is to check your battery terminals. These are inside the remote and in older units, they sometimes become slightly loose. This is due to many battery replacements done over time. You can press them together a bit so that they hold the battery better and tighter. You are looking for good, solid contact with the battery so that it works like it should. While you are doing this, check your terminals for leaky battery fluid. Older batteries sometimes leak and the resulting fluid from this can easily affect your remote’s ability to work. Keep the terminals clean, pressed together and fluid-free.

Sticky remote buttons

Remotes get dirty too. Over time they can become caked with grime, food particles, mud and any number of items that can make them stick. They also are often dropped on the ground or fall hard on driveways so that they not only become dirty, they can get damaged, too. If your remote buttons are sticky, clean them as best as you can. If this doesn’t help, you may need to replace your worn out remote with a new one.

Don’t forget this!

The problem may not be your remote at all; it may be that a garage door lock is in place! Be careful; continued use of your opener can result in a burned out opener system. Sometimes, a roommate or family member locks the garage door using a simple slide lock. This is usually done when no one is expected home, or after hours. Always be sure to check for a garage door lock and save yourself from having to replace your entire opener motor!

Safety eyes

Often, the culprit is your garage door safety sensors. If these are out of alignment and their signals are not corresponding they won’t work and again, the problem is NOT your remote; it just seems like it is. While you are checking, look for loose, unplugged or frayed wires. Also check to see if anything is in the way and blocking the LED light’s signal. In our winter months sometimes spiders build webs and other insects build nests on or very near your photoelectric safety eyes. Make sure your lights work, are aligned and clean at all times. Next, check your brackets. These should be securely fastened and not loose. If they are, the beams will not align and you will experience garage door opening problems. For further details and advice on how to do any of the above, simply call Kennesaw Garage Door Repair or your favorite local, full service garage door repair shop and get some advice. Many garage door pros offer free consultations and almost all make house calls when you become a customer. Don’t forget online sources like YouTube, Vimeo and Google search. You can find helpful videos on literally any component of your home or business garage door, including remote care, service and replacement.

Another possible solution…

Be sure to check your wall station inside the garage. On some models, there is a lock button that allows you to lock your garage door when it is activated. The very purpose of this lock is to stop anyone from opening or closing your garage door with a remote. It is most often used when the occupants are leaving on vacation or for a trip and don’t want their garage door opened by ANY remote, theirs included. Many opener systems don’t have this locking feature so, if yours does not; don’t worry about it, as your remote problem is caused by something else.

Call a pro

If the above methods fail to produce a better working remote, it may be time to call in the pros. Most garage door repair experts will be able to pinpoint the problem and fix it right away. Don’t be afraid to rely on experienced and skilled garage door professionals. Many offer fast, same day service, affordable prices, 24-hour emergency help and fine quality garage door and opener brands that offer the very best in performance, convenience and reliability.

Article source here: GARAGE DOOR WON’T OPEN OR CLOSE WITH REMOTE CONTROL