#Sartoria corcos

[permanentstyle]

https://www.permanentstyle.com/2023/04/reader-profile-jeff.html

Reader Profile: Jeff

[thurstongrey]

[fashionbooksmilano]

L’arte della moda

L’età dei sogni e delle rivoluzioni 1789-1968

A cura di Cristina Acidini, Fabiana Giacomotti, Fernando Mazzocca

Dario Cimorelli Editore, Milano 2023, 384 pagine, 400 ill. col., 23 x 28 cm, ISBN  9791255610014

euro 34,00

email if you want to buy booksinprogressmilano@yahoo.it

Mostra Forlì, Musei San Domenico, 18 marzo - 2 luglio 2023. A cura di G. Brunelli e F. Mazzocca

La moda dipinta, ritratta, scolpita, realizzata dai grandi artisti. L'abito che modella, nasconde, dissimula o promette il corpo. L'abito come segno di potere, di ricchezza, di riconoscimento, di protesta. Cifra distintiva di uno stato sociale o identificativa di una generazione. La moda come opera e comportamento. L'arte come racconto e come sentimento del tempo. Dal Settecento a oggi, la mostra ricostruisce e racconta un inedito e affascinante viaggio tra due arti sorelle. Nel Settecento la moda diventa moderna e diffusa tra classi sociali diverse. L'abito come oggetto di consumo modifica lentamente l'organizzazione della distribuzione, sempre più caratterizzata, soprattutto nelle città, da luoghi fissi. Nascono i negozi. La ricerca dei materiali rivoluziona il mondo produttivo e quello commerciale fino alle attuali soluzioni tecnologiche. Dalla fine dell'Ottocento il rapporto tra arte e moda va incrementandosi in un gioco delle parti che porterà la moda stessa a diventare un'arte, a essere uno sguardo sulle cose del mondo come la filosofia, la letteratura, il cinema. Nel Novecento le vicende della moda si sono confuse con i temi della politica, del cambiamento sociale.

Opere di Reynolds, Batoni, Hayez, Canova, Molteni, Sala, Boldini, Lega, Signorini, Borrani, Caillebotte, Tissot, Sargent, De Nittis, Zandomeneghi, Corcos, Bonzagni, Boccioni, Balla, Severini, Bucci, Casorati, Martini, de Chirico, Melotti, Fontana, Campigli, Mondrian, Picasso, Matisse, Delaunay. Abiti e accessori di Maison Collot, Lanza, Sartoria Ventura, #Poiret, #Fortuny, #Balla, #Depero, #Chanel,# Lanvin, #Worth, Monaci Gallenga, #Dior, #Ferré, #Valentino, #Ferragamo, #Capucci, #Schon, Marucelli,#SaintLaurent #Yamamoto, Balestra.

19/05/23

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[amator-blogosphere]

[waysdu]

[drop93hk]

Sartoria Corcos Cream Wool Sport Coat Bespoke (Pre-Owned) HKD 10,000 USD 1,287 Approx. size EU 46 (at Drop93) https://www.instagram.com/p/CN32QCjLN7N/?igshid=w1qezbv08uwa

[lesindispensablesparis]

Prologue Hong Kong

Mars 2020 : premier confinement. L’occasion pour moi de faire un grand tri dans ma garde-robe. Un constat criant lorsque je l’examinais: mes costumes n’étaient plus vraiment à ma taille. Trop fin et slim à mon goût, héritage d’une époque où je m’habillais (trop) près du corps. C’est là où je me mets à la recherche d’une marque qui puisse me satisfaire. Comme souvent, je me tourne vers Instagram, une grande source d’inspiration. J’épluche divers comptes et tombe sur celui d’un tailleur Hongkongais : Prologue Hong-Kong. Les silhouettes sont simples, intrigantes et belles à la fois. Je décide de contacter la marque via le réseau social. Pour rappel, nous sommes en plein confinement, la situation est donc assez critique en Chine, mais Prologue est à l’écoute : leur idée est de lancer du Remote-Made-To-Measure, à savoir du demi-mesure à distance. Grâce à un guide de prise de mesures efficient, je commande mon premier costume deux-pièces dans un tissus bleu de la maison anglaise Holland & Sherry qui est une véritable réussite. Les mesures ont été prises par ma copine – merci à elle – et perfectionnées par l’équipe de Prologue. A l’arrivée, le costume tombe parfaitement, je suis complètement sous le charme de la coupe et de la qualité de confection, très propre.

Depuis, ma garde-robe s’est étoffée grâce à leur offre imbattable. Voici le review de leur veste emblématique et d’un pantalon un peu sp��cial.

Décryptage.

Les trois fondateurs de la maison – Jerry Tong, Chris Tang et Maslow So – étaient frustrés lorsqu’ils partaient à la quête de costumes : bien qu’ils auraient adorés pouvoir s’habiller chez Liverano Liverano, Sartoria Panico ou encore Corcos à Florence, la qualité coûtait un certain prix qu’ils ne pouvaient s’accommoder.

Lorsque des amis leur demandait où trouver des costumes pas chers mais de qualité, ils n’avaient jamais de réponse à leur donner.

C’est là où Chris et Jerry commencent à travailler avec des tailleurs hongkongais pour reproduire les silhouettes de leurs maisons favorites. Mais les tailleurs ne souhaitaient pas s’adapter aux goûts des deux hommes : ils n’avaient pas de temps à leur accorder.

Ils trouvent un atelier en Chine disposé à apprendre à couper leurs patrons. Petit à petit, la silhouette se précise et se perfectionne. Leurs costumes sont confectionnés à partir de patrons préexistants, mais réajustés à la main, voici pourquoi Prologue parle d’une offre semi-bespoke.

Une veste et pantalon pour tous les jours

Le bleu et le gris sont les meilleurs amis de la garde-robe masculine. Mais ils peuvent rapidement prendre le dessus, le résultat de cela étant que l’on ne souhaite pas s’aventurer à outre sa zone de confort.

Mais parfois, cela paye. Faire des erreurs fait partie intégrante du chemin pour construire sa garde-robe (les sites de reventes de vêtements sont là pour rattraper le coup !).

Prologue nous offre à voir une veste deux-boutons (faux trois-boutons) aux revers larges (10 cm), et aux épaules légèrement structurées. Dans un tissu composé en 50% laine et 50% soie de la maison Marling and Evans, cette veste à motif Prince de Galles à rayures discrètes vertes est un véritable coup de jackpot pour une garde-robe.

Prologue ayant déjà mes mesures de ma commande précédente, il était donc simple de les reprendre pour l’appliquer à cette veste. La veste tombe parfaitement !

Dans un monde de moins en moins formel, Prologue voulait proposer de nouvelles pièces hybrides s’intégrant dans notre quotidien chamboulée par la situation sanitaire actuelle. Ainsi,

La maison hongkongaise propose également de découvrir une véritable pépite : un pantalon habillé – sartorial – en denim. Je dois avouer avoir été quelque peu circonspect au début, mais Jerry a su me conseiller et guider efficacement. Grâce à cela, je le porte avec la veste détaillée précédemment, visible sur les photos. Finalement, j’aime beaucoup ce pantalon car il est à la fois habillé et décontracté. Habillé par sa couleur sombre – d’un bleu profond – et décontracté de par le tissus denim.

Du « Made in China » de qualité

Ce review de Prologue est l’occasion pour nous de redire que, oui, il est possible d’avoir un vêtement fabriqué en Chine dans les règles de l’art. La maison hongkongaise est pleinement dans l’artisanat. La confection est de très bonne facture et le prix imbattable.

Quid des frais de douanes ? Prologue expédie les commandes via Hong-Kong Post ce qui pallie les taxes douanières considérablement : d’expérience, compter environ 30 euros de frais à la réception à régler à Chronopost.

Une marque qui a su s’adapter

Prologue a lancé son site internet il y a peu, Prologuehk, et a surtout étoffé sa gamme, en proposant des pièces en prêt-à-porter ou made to order. Leur programme de Remote-made-to-measure devrait se lancer d’ici quelques semaines.

Pour retrouver la veste de ce review en ready-to-wear, il suffit de suivre ce lien : https://shop.prologuehk.com/shop/products/prologues-signature-brown-cream-pow-check-wool-silk-jacket

Prologue est composée d’une équipe exemplaire, Jerry étant d’une gentillesse et bienveillance incroyable, nous ne pouvons que recommander de sauter le pas. Vous pouvez également découvrir leur offre via Instagram, leur page est une véritable source d’inspiration !

[skoaktiebolaget]

Skoaktiebolaget - Patrik Löf

Wearing Sartoria Corcos, Rubinacci cashmere sweater and Rubinacci cashmere scarf.

[putthison]

But What Clothes Do You Truly Wear?

Most of us have more clothes than we need, and while there’s always that temptation to get more, the truth is only a small portion of our wardrobes make up our everyday wear. Vogue ran a story about this earlier this year, where they asked their editors which pieces they pull out most often from their mountain of options. I decided to pose the same question to some of my favorite people in the menswear industry. With what we assume are ginormous wardrobes in their closets, what clothes do they truly wear on a daily basis? Yesterday we covered four modern style icons -- here’s a look at the personal daily habits of four more. 

Michael Hill, Creative Director at Drake’s

The things I reach for the most aren’t terribly interesting, but hopefully they come together in an interesting way. I mostly wear my unlined suede chukkas and unlined shell cordovan penny loafers from Alden. I like grey flannels and heavy corduroys a lot. I mostly wear long-point, oxford-cloth button-downs, particularly in blue and white stripes. Ties tend to be either blue or green. I love tweed jackets. I have two in solid navy and solid green, but the others are patterned sport coats in earthy browns. 

The one thing that might be unusual is my love for cotton suits, particularly in bright blues and drab olives. Wool is a wonderful fiber -- it keeps its shape, it has a spring to it, and it can look well pressed. I love cotton suits for all the reason why people hate them. They’re stiff, they crumple, the color fades. I can picture my cotton suit sitting on the end of my rail at home now. The way the sleeves curl, it looks like my arms are in them, and the sleeves will probably stay like that even after the jacket has been cleaned. If you get one in a heavy drill cotton, the fabric almost moulds to your body. That’s the wonderful thing about cotton suits. They’re casual and age with you, much like a good pair of jeans. 

I also love my M-65 jacket. I wear it over tailored clothing, but also casually. It’s an easy go-to and great for travel. There are so many big pockets, you almost don’t even need a bag. I live on a farm out in the countryside in Devonshire, so waxed cotton Barbour jackets and bucket hats are useful. 

There are also some things here and there I usually reach for on the weekend. A pair of taupe-colored needlecord pants I bought in Japan; some Chromexcel moccasins from the New England Outerwear Company, which have these rubber outsoles. They’re such brilliant casual pieces. I wear a lot of sturdy knitwear, such as Shetlands and sweatshirts. I don’t like knits that feel too luxurious and fine. One odd thing about sweatshirts is that I don’t like them in the more classic grey. My wife wears my grey ones now, but the color doesn’t work for me. I’m too pasty. Instead, I like them in olive and indigo. 

Lastly, I have a few nice watches, but I mostly just wear things from Swatch. I have a few semi-translucent ones in bright colors such as green, yellow, and orange. I also have a few solid colors as well. I love when they do the really simple ones in solid colors. Yellow is my favorite color, but it doesn’t do well against my skin. I think I can away with it on my wrist though. 

Ethan Newton, Co-Founder of Bryceland’s

My day-to-day wardrobe changes according to where I am, but I always have a few things that I call my sartorial comfort food. 

The first is a Stetson Stratoliner from the 1950s. As a big baldy with a tendency to squint his eyes and get sunburnt, I’m rarely without a lid on my noggin. And while I have some amazing custom pieces from a few great makers, there’s something about this soft, broken-down piece of Silverbelly Beaver that I can’t seem to replicate. I wear it with everything from three-pieces suits to rayon shirts paired with denim and boots. Its versatility comes from never being too perfectly matched with whatever I’m wearing. 

I also get a lot of wear out of my navy blazer. The idea of a staple navy jacket has been repeated ad-nauseam, but the simple fact is that it really is useful. I have a full-handed, reasonably heavy jacket made in a basket-weave Sportex fabric by Dormeuil. The fabric’s crunch and solidity make it perfect for everything from grey flannels and wide-waled, wheat cords, to my favorite P44 USMC cargos and busted-down 501s. If I had the time, I would get another navy sport coat in Fox Flannel’s amazing 430g basket-weave jacketing -- a fabric that has such structure that it seems to always fall like iron.

Finally, I’m always carrying my world around with me, from my smokes to my camera to whatever book I’m reading at the time. I use our Bryceland’s leather tote for these purposes, which is based off a vintage L.L. Bean tote my business partner Kenji found. It’s simply built from a soft, but sturdy leather, and the tan color works well with black or brown accessories. It’s simple, rugged, and utilitarian -- what I hope as a brand we stand for -- and the simplicity of the design lends itself well to customization. I’ve adorned mine with vintage silver pieces and a bandana at the handle. 

George Wang, Founder of BRIO

I think most people buy for versatility, but people in the clothing trade often have much more extensive wardrobes. Still, we live in the real world and often fall into a repetitive lifestyle, just like everyone else. Only a small portion of my wardrobe is used on a daily basis. 

In the spring and summer months, I wear a lot of cotton and linen button-down shirts, as well as open-weave voile shirts in light blue. My most used jackets tend to be navy single- and double-breasted sport coats. They pair well with gray Fresco trousers, which are useful given how hot summers can get in Beijing. Beige is also a great summer color. I wear a cream silk-linen sport coat with navy trousers, as well as beige linen trousers with navy jackets. Blue cotton suits can also be great. 

To dress down tailored clothing, I like long-sleeved knitted polos. They work in either light or dark colors. And on weekends, I’m usually just in sweats, shorts, or jeans. For shoes, I mostly rely on my unlined, brown calfskin Edward Green penny loafers and shell cordovan Alden loafers -- either tassels or pennies. 

Naturally, fall and winter are about heavier fabrics. I wear a lot of tweed once the weather gets cold -- sport coats in green Game Keepers tweed, brown herringbone tweed, and grey Donegal tweed. Navy serge blazer is nice for a slightly sharper, crisper look. Trousers tend to be either grey flannel or beige cavalry twill. If I need to wear suits for business, it’s usually a grey thornproof single-breasted suit this time of year, or a heavy, blue worsted double-breasted. 

There are also just some things I find are useful for both keeping warm and looking stylish. A thick, rollneck sweater in either cream or navy; a waxed cotton Barbour jacket. If I need a coat to throw over tailored clothing, it’s usually my grey herringbone Ulster coat or camel-colored polo. I have a Woolrich arctic parka I rely on a lot for weekends. Shoes are still mostly Alden, but I also wear my brown suede oxfords from Edward Green a lot. They go well with suits. 

Gabriel Öberg Bustad, Manager at Skoaktiebolaget

Unfortunately, when trying to describe my personal style, I find my description often sounds dull and lacking in personality. Nevertheless, I like classic and conservative clothing, typically with muted, subtle colors and few (if any) patterns or details standing out. I love balance and harmony in my clothing, and look for things that are in keeping with my calm personality. I love to have the opportunity to work with skilled craftsmen and women who enhance my good sides and assist me in hiding or mitigating my not-so-good sides.

Summers are short here in Northern Europe, so I’ve prioritized my fall and winter wardrobe. For comfort and style, I can’t stress enough how useful it is to have a classic, double-breasted overcoat in navy. I have one from Sartoria Corcos in Florence, Italy, which is made from a wool-cashmere blend overcoating. The blend gives the fabric a softer touch, but it’s still insulating enough for our Scandinavian weather. I’m a huge fan of trench coats for the same purposes, particularly for fall. I own four of them in different colors. 

For sport coats, I find my brown houndstooth sport coat is very versatile. It’s made from a cashmere fabric woven by Zegna. I wear it with mid-gray wool flannel trousers and brown, apron-toe derbies from Saint Crispin’s (it’s their 633 model). The three are easy to wear, classic, and stylish, and look great together or with other things. 

[gentlemenclover-com]

👉 2017 is the year of my first bespoke suit with Yuki and my first appointment with BnTailor. 2018 : appointment with Sartoria Corcos already booked ... the passion goes on ! @andrews_ties_sverige Grenadine Tie @bergandberg Shirt @johnhenric PS #wiwt #lookbook #apparel #mnswr #menswear #igfashion #guyswithstyle #mensfashionpost #fashion #mensfashion #gentleman #gentlemen #gentlemanstyle #lookoftheday #ootd #bespoke #igers #igdaily #beautiful #style

[pautadeluxo]

Perhaps challenging the current status quo of soft, capacious Neapolitan style tailoring, Swedish menswear writer Andreas Weinas instead tends to propagate a slightly slimmer cut - albeit, maintaining soft construction through the shoulders. Exaggerating the slim line of the waist are the open quarters of Andreas’ jacket - exposing more of the waist and the tip of the tie. However, true to the premise of open quarters, yet defying the slim waist, Andreas’ jackets are not marred by any rippling or creasing through the jacket’s front - indicative of the quality of tailoring. Cut in a vintage tweed cloth by Japanese/Florentine artisan Sartoria Corcos, this jacket features a suppressed waist, open quarters, soft structured shoulders - evident in the manner in which Andreas’ shoulders slope, jetted side pockets and slightly shortened sleeves - the culmination of which is a unique take on soft Italian tailoring, and may we intimate, an ensemble which perfectly encapsulates the essence of tailoring - the coupling of function and form to enhance the masculine figure. @andreasweinas @sartoria.corcos . . . . #thesartorialjournal #sartorialjournal #VSCOCam #Luxury #Shirts #Suit #MensFashion #MensWear #MensStyle #MaleFashion #Dapper #MenWithClass #Gentleman #MenWith #Style #MenWithStyle #Fashion #Bespoke #OutFit #StreetStyle #FashionBlogger #Fashion #sartorial #GQ #PhotoOfTheDay #trends #OOTD #Passion #InstaStyle

[permanentstyle]

https://wordpress-996520-3726858.cloudwaysapps.com/2023/04/reader-profile-jeff.html

Reader Profile: Jeff

[afterpriceisforgotten]

I’ve been looking at a lot of clothing from @sartoria-corcos, and boy, is it ever something. To me, it’s the kindof cut that, depending on the fabric, can look wonderfully dressy and elegant, or casually elegant as well. My favourites have been these tweed numbers; very neopolitan, and quite similar in cut to Liverano & Liverano, they seem to perfectly walk the line between the flattering English cut, with some key elements of soft Italian tailoring. A cut I’d love to get some firsthand experience with! 

[shibumi-firenze]

The Master

Kotaro Miyahira of Sartoria Corcos, Firenze wearing a Shibumi tie.

www.shibumi-berlin.com

[amator-blogosphere]

[hayafuji]

willkommen München!!