#Paladrin

[welldresseddadblog]

I wrote about Paladrin a year or so back when they were just starting out with their “Made by London” idea, where the clothes were designed and made in London, using British fabrics. Well, it’s no surprise that after the initial success they are back again with the sequel. You know how it is when you’re onto a good thing? You keep going. Work your strengths, tweak your designs, source better and apart from that just keep on keeping on.

Paladrin are very much champions of two core ideas: traditional fabrics and boxy cuts. When it comes to the traditional fabrics there are some that get mentioned a lot, and others not so often. Denim and tweed are pretty much always popular, linen has also enjoyed a recent popularity, but others, such as moleskin and corduroy not so much. And corduroy and moleskin might be considered the Paladrin house fabrics. Granted, corduroy is currently enjoying something of a general boost in popularity, but amidst the usual geography teacher and social worker jokes. Really though, those of us with more open and inguisitive minds know that both corduroy and moleskin have historical aspects that make them very interesting indeed.

Moleskin was obased on a twilled cotton fabric known as fustian and was developed as the workwear fabric of choice for dealing with the cold and damp British climate, both indoors and outdoors, in Victorian times. Corduroy, also a cut cotton, also evolved from fustain. Fustain was notoriously subversive as well, being the choice of supporters of the radical working class in the 19th century. Reason enough to view the meek geography teachers with fresh respect! Both are very pleasant in use though, being both soft of handle and warm.

Last year saw canvas and corduroy jackets and moleskin and corduroy shirts, this year they’re back with more corduroy jackets, this time wider of wale, as in heavier grade, and more shirts. A nice looking wool melton has also been added to the mix. Being staunchly anti-fashion and doing their own thing, there’s no skinny fits or flashiness, it’s still boxy, classic workwear silhouettes. As mentioned, for this season the patterns have been reworked and evolved for a more ergonomic and comfortable fit. Evolution based on experience is a good thing, this way lies progress. The design and production is still in London, using British fabrics and details.

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If there is a problem with Paladrin it’s the short runs. Once announced, you need to get in there quick if you want something. This season I instantly fell in love with the green corduroy jacket. Can I say fell in love with a jacket? Sounds silly, but you know what I mean. Let’s just say I adore heavy corduroy and this one ticked lots of boxes for me. And it sold out double quick. I also wanted one of the revised moleskin shirts, as they are just great for cold weather use. Or as a transitional layering garment, as your local menswearist no doubt would put it.

Construction wise I’m pleased to see all tidily felled seams and buttons that are firmly attached. This again proves that short run productions made in Britain using quality materials need not be wildly expensive. Well, at least not when you can buy direct. It’s a good deal for both Paladrin, the maker and the customer though.

One word of advice: Read the sizing details carefully. The sizes are larger than usual. I’m normally a large, occasionally a medium, but in Paladrin I’m a small.

Available now from Paladrin. Jackets from 185 to 230 130 to 150 pounds, shirts 75 to 110 45 to 65 pounds. There’s a sale on!

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Paladrin returns to the ring for round two #paladrin #madebylondon #madeinbritain #moleskin #corduroy #workwear I wrote about Paladrin a year or so back when they were just starting out with their "Made by London" idea, where the clothes were designed and made in London, using British fabrics.

[aquotecollection]

If we limited loving to just the sane, undamaged people, the next generation would have about three people in it and presumably humanity would die out shortly afterward.

Paladin’s Grace, T Kingfisher

[we-gentstreet-blog]

Welcome to Gent. Street, We are an independent Sneaker, Clothing & Accessories store based in Frome, Somerset - More about us to follow

[goodandbeautifulqueen-blog]

Next Up Hero - Paladrin on Piano (OST)

[theluxave]

PALADRIN- Designed, sourced and made in London.

[welldresseddadblog]

When the weather is mainly stormy, sleety, snowy, chilly and generally vile, it’s Parkatime in my book. Waxed cotton with a moleskin shirt takes some of the edge off, apply hood for extra escape. #freerain #paladrin #winterfashion

[welldresseddadblog]

A look back to last week when I was experimenting with photography. Nice contrast between the black corduroy and the blurred green. #tbt #throwbackthursday #nofilter #bokeh #welldresseddad #dadstyle #madeinengland #paladrin #styleno #motei #finansavisen_fashion #menswear

[welldresseddadblog]

My young social media advisors have been crunching numbers and considering psycho-ethnological bell curves. The result? "You need to diversify and show a gentler side!". So here I am supporting a single mother struggling to bring up her eight offspring on her own. If the media calls, I'm trying to get the fur off my ripstop trousers and moleskin shirt. And no, this photo has nothing to do with #hygge! #welldresseddad #moleskin #ripstop #paladrin #thorostitch

[welldresseddadblog]

Dropping a Sunday rerun on the brightest jacket I'll be wearing this Summer. Just noticed @paladrin.co is offering 10% off on their first collection today. #yellowjacket #mensweardaily #mensstyle #inspo #menstyle #mensfashion #yellow #welldresseddad #dadstyle #madeinlondon #madeinengland #paladrin

[welldresseddadblog]

Black corduroy is the dust collector of fabrics. On a dark night though, when you're making your way through the shadows of the city, nothing sucks of the particles of light like it, allowing you to move like a ninja. Ok, a little bit like a ninja. #corduroy #welldresseddad #dadstyle #antimatter #ninja #paladrin #cuttersline #madeinbritain #menswear #menswearblogger #motei #styleno

[welldresseddadblog]

I wasn't aware of serious I was looking untill I came to write a caption for this one. I was actually feeling very joyful, mainly due to wearing an incredibly soft and comfy moleskin shirt from @paladrin.co. In fact, I just posted about them on the blog (link in bio). #paladrin #madeinlondon #madeinengland #moleskin #corduroy #whysoserious #raybans #welldresseddad #dadstyle #review #mensfashion #menswear #menstyle

[welldresseddadblog]

Think of huge clothing companies, you know, the like of H&M and Zara. They make billions of garments, employ thousands of people, make whopping amounts of money and have their product made in faceless factories wherever will make it cheapest. Then move your thoughts right down to the other end of the scale. Consider what it’s like if a company makes just enough garments, employs a bare minimum of people, make just enough money and have their product made in factories they actually visit and work closely with.

The Briggs jacket, in yellow denim.

If you’ve been following this blog for a while, you’ll be on board with the second variant here. I like to think of them as the sort of company that makes pieces they care about, filling a gap they feel should be filled, selecting components based on other properties than cost, eschewing massive profit in favour of a more ethical approach. Now this could all be total hipster wank, and no doubt in many cases it is, but there is also something very alluring about those companies that are genuine. I’ve met up with a few of them, and when I was in London recently I had the opportunity to meet up with Tim, the charming gent behind new brand Paladrin.

So, over a couple of cups of warm drink in a noisy London coffee shop we sat down for a good natter about the state of menswear and what Paladrin brings from the cutting table. Tim is new to the garment game, but from his trade as a graphic designer he brings a keen eye for what works. Thinking about it, designing clothes is very much a graphic design. He enlists help from friends in other fields to help out as needed, among them a cutter with some 30+ years experience. And then there is the factory in London, close enough to work closely with. This has resulted in a first collection of 5 jackets and 7 shirts, shared over three designs in each category.

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The Morton jacket in black corduroy

The designs are based on solid, classic workwear silhouettes, boxy cuts. Sparse on fancy details, but strong on being rugged and very well made. My nerdy eyes immediately appreciate that all the seams are properly felled and finished. Fabric-wise the ruggedness continues with the classics, denim, moleskin, wool and corduroy. Mostly in darker colours, but the yellow jacket certainly brightens the vista on a grey day!

I did mention the items being well made. Combine this with the quality fabrics and you have a good product. If you combine that with a competitive and realistic pricing and you have a winner. And in this respect Paladrin have got it right with the first collection. Working directly with the factory, cutting out the blood-sucking middleman and handling sales directly, means that everyone involved earns what they need to earn and the customer still gets a great deal. Much like other great London companies such as SEH Kelly work.

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The Moriss shirt in navy moleskin

It’s something of a reminder really to experience the classic fabrics. So much today is just cotton, or cotton blend, with little or no structure or character. I strongly believe corduroy is due a massive comeback. Hopefully not in a fashion way, but at least to be appreciated by adult males looking for quality garments. Moleskin is another almost forgotten fabric that should be very much more appreciated. My navy Moriss shirt feels incredibly cosy and soft. A little warm for summer days, but bring on the chill and I’ll be living in it.

The garments are very generously sized, and not available in the smallest sizes, so waifs need not apply around these ways. I’m wearing medium, the smallest size available. I would suggest looking at the sizing chart carefully.

Shirts and jackets available now from Paladrin.co

    Paladrin - Workwear made by London #workwear #paladrin #mensfashion #denim #review #moleskin #blog #blogger Think of huge clothing companies, you know, the like of H&M and Zara. They make billions of garments, employ thousands of people, make whopping amounts of money and have their product made in faceless factories wherever will make it cheapest.

[welldresseddadblog]

Yellow is the new blue? My brothers are trying on this seasons signature jacket from London upstarts @paladrin.co. Is it too much or just right? #yellowjacket #paladrin #welldresseddad #dadstyle #madeinlondon

[welldresseddadblog]

Day two saw us lace up and set off again. After the miserable dinner at the hotel the evening before, it was easy to skip the £27.50 breakfast they served there. Almost 30 quid for breakfast? This just goes to show that when booking a hotel in London, make sure breakfast is included, otherwise they will gouge you. There are any number of places that will service you a fried egg, a strip of bacon, a sausage and a spoonful of beans (aka. the average cheap “full English”) for £7.50. Or you can pick up some ready made sandwiches or something equivalent for a few pounds. Not exactly high end living, but when you can get a nice lunch or dinner for the price of breakfast, the choice is simple.

The popular parts of London at massively crowded most of the time, so if you want to do anything other than march in step looking at the back of the person in front of you (now that doesn’t sound right at all, it’s not like that at all, it’s more like an endless and tiring frustration of people standing, stopping, walking slow or fast, in the same, the opposite or perpendicular directions to where you are headed) you take the side streets. On a Saturday morning at Easter, Bond Street was perfect, hardly a soul about. Bond Street isn’t where I would go to visit shops, far too upper-crust for me, but I did start paying attention to their shop windows. It’s quite obvious that shops here have an ambition level and budget to make some remarkable displays.

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Staying by Green Park means the nearest Tube station is almost at Piccadilly Square, so by the time you’ve walked there you’ve already limbered up and found your gait, so it sort of makes sense to just keep on walking. I’d arranged a meetup off Carnaby Street, for practical reasons, but before that I popped into Liberty and tok a look round their menswear section. They stock some pretty trendy and expensive brands, but the impression I was left with was that it was all very samey and frankly pretty boring. I’m sure if I’d removed all the placards with the brand names on them, shuffled them and returned the pile to them, even the buyer would have struggled to place them all correctly. This does hammer home how hard it is to find something you don’t already have though.

Day two map, sort of

I’d arranged to meet Tim, of new brand Paladrin, for a chat about starting up a new menswear brand. I posted seperately about this a week or two ago, if you are keen on London-made workwear styles, take a look here. Quite strange to sit talking menswear in a Costas chock full of noisy folks, but oddly by the time we finished it was empty, without us noticing it had emptied. I think that is a sign of a good conversation.

The plan for the day though was Shoreditch. I suspect Shoreditch might already have peaked, to be replaced by Hackney or Brixton, but there were places we wanted to visit there, so off we went. Getting to Shoreditch is fiddly at the best of times, but today we were left stranded halfway there. No info, no train. In the end we went outside the station and caught a black cab. This turned out well, as it was a sunny day and only 15 minutes drive. When you’re used to going everywhere under ground, it makes a nice change to see more of the city.

Arriving in Shoreditch it was lunchtime, which turns into the usual issue of where to eat. London is full of places to eat, and most of them either look super high end or totally low end. We were walking along past Boxpark (“Hey, the Norwegian onesie shop is still there!”) and notice this derelict looking factory building type place. Peering in through the window we see people sitting there and we’re intrigued. Looks a bit murky and dirty, but let’s take a look. Turns out it’s Smokestak and even though the menu is pretty cryptic, the food we end up with on our table is the best we’ve had in a long time. Cured and smoked meats. Awesome.

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Shoreditch has a selection of the more interesting shops in London, such as Mendoza (very interesting menswear), Son of a Stag (the other rare selvedge denim shop), Rough Trade, YMC, London Undercover (I’m still looking for a duelling umbrella), Grenson, various secondhand and vintage. Also, the infamous SEH Kelly, the smallest workshop cum showroom in London. It’s always a delight to stop by and have a chat with Paul and it’s also fascinating to notice who else has found there way there. Last time I was in there was an American visitor, this time a Canadian. It’s really quite amazing how a tiny brand can reach so far, but no doubt this is entirely down to quality garments and effort spent on social media and forum outreach. I often mention SEH Kelly as an example of how small brands can be a success, and it bears repeating.

In a back street I found these two. Opposite ends of the evolution, yet the only common factor is 4 wheels and the colour.

One of the most joyful features of Shoreditch is the street art. I thin keven for people that visit regularly it’s kept fresh and vibrant, due to the sheer number surfaces available and the number of pieces being painted. It’s also pretty obvious that this is a major industry in the area, as we kept stumbling upon “Street Art Tours” of various formats. Heck, why not? I appreciate the styles and messages of street art much more than the crusty olde masters hanging in the museums.

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By this time the lustre of Shoreditch had dulled and we found our way back towards more central areas. WDW enjoys taking the afternoon tea, so we thought we’d give the Pat Val near Green Park a go. Well, they had a table by the window vacant, so it was off to a good start. Pat Val is one of those places that seems like a good idea right up until you’ve sat down, then it goes down hill. This time it was the noise. Not in general, but mainly from an Italian grandma at the next table. Did she ever have a lot of stuff she was pissed off about, in a loud, intense and unfathomable way. Or at least that is how she sounded. I’m normally pretty tolerant, but after 10 solid minutes I had to give her a stern look. Which actually seemed to work, even though to everyone but me it probably looked like I had a sore tooth. Both her family and we were pleased when she piped down though.

A late afternoon tea may in some instances pass for a dinner of sorts. At least this one did, fired up on fresh sugar we decided to walk around some more. Fortnum and Mason isn’t a shop I normally bother with, though they are a masterclass in presentation. I was surprised this time to find both a selection of McNair mountain shirts and a Nigel Cabourn pop-up shop there. The Cabourn part was especially impressive as it held a super selection of the tweed garments from the past two Autmn-Winter seasons. Strange how much of this has survived all the stock clearances of the past couple of years.

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With night falling, that was it for day two. Day three was to be dedicated to more high-brow pursuits.

  Another visit to Ye Olde Londoninium - day two #london #ilovelondon #tripreport #myholiday #blogger #menswear Day two saw us lace up and set off again. After the miserable dinner at the hotel the evening before, it was easy to skip the £27.50 breakfast they served there.

[welldresseddadblog]

It’s no secret that I tend to be a fan of the small brands. The brands that start out with a wish to do something different, pulling inspiration from somewhere outside the mainstream, and maybe without a primary goal of becoming a global brand. Just for the sake of doing something cool. There are a number of brands like this around, and especially in the UK now there is a manufacturing industry with the capacity to cater for the smaller brands. Think SEH Kelly, HebTroCo, Jago, Paladrin etc. Today though, I’m talking about Bristol-based one-man-brand Work & War.

With a vision and creative drive. Work & War from Bristol ticks all the boxes, being a one-man company with a strong determination to recreate and update some of the most ruggedly functional garments from an era where functional army garments were first developed.Work & War is the brainchild of Joe Ruddock, by daytime an art director working in advertising, by evening an enthusiast and collector of rugged 30’s and 40’s style clothing, and moody master of the black and white seaside photos.

The first mini-collection from W&W consisted of a jacket, a shirt and a knitted hat. An odd selection, maybe, with the jacket as the obvious centrepiece and the shirt and knitted hat as interesting collaborations with other makers. While the latter two sold out almost immediately, let’s take a look at what Joe came up with in his first collection.

The jacket is based on a uniform jacket worn by German U-boat crew, which was again based on a British denim jacket captured at Dunkirk in 1940. A convoluted-sounding history, but to me, it brings to mind the classic WW2 battle blouse. The original was worn with very high rise trousers and is characterised by the huge pleated chest pockets and roomy arms. A really great look, but not all that common these days, so this jacket makes a welcome appearance. The body has been extended so it works with trousers of a more modern waist height. Joe is totally dedicated to dedicated to the details, so managed to find a deadstock 11oz Japanese Chambray fabric to use, and had special 3-holed aluminium buttons made up. And then had the jacket made in a factory in Britain.

With the crew jacket underway, Joe came across Kurtz Clothiers in Australia. Now Kurtz is a similarly tiny company. To be precise, it’s really just Pete. He specialised in making handmade vintage style garments, primarily shirts. For this collaboration, they wanted the pre-war European vintage look and settled on a 1930’s version. With a seldom seen spearpoint back collar, pleated pocket and tunic front. The fabric is an 8.5oz blue cotton duck and the buttons are deadstock British horn. The duck fabric is not a typical shirt fabric and does require wearing and washing to soften up. Then again, it’s made to last, so there is plenty of opportunity for that to happen.

The final collaboration was another meeting of minds, between Joe and the vintage-style knitter, Hen Johnson, known to fans as Miss Pitchy Patchy. The Skull Caps were a definite war-time feature, often worn under helmets to keep their head warm and the helmet more comfortable. Miss Patchy hand knitted them, one at a time, using period knitting patterns and 100% Aran wool. In person, they are knitted from nice, thick wool in a ruggedly solid pattern. As was the style of the time, they sit more on the head than down over the wearer’s ears, so it’s more of a look than something I’d use as winter wear (read about my issues with woolly hats here). It’s a splendid looking hat though, with very much more character than the usual finely woven beanie style. And of course, there is the badge to give it the final touch. The badge is inspired by a German U-Boat wolfpack badge, hand cut in metal and aged.

By the time you read this, I imagine the initial offerings will be long sold out (apparently not, there is a shirt and a few jackets left) and Joe will be working on new projects (he hints about them on his Instagram).

Find more about Joe and Work & War on his website here.

  Work & War - Rugged rags for brutal men - From England with love #workandwar #armystyle #rugged #ruggedstyle #bristol #madeinbritain #mensstyle #mensfashion #vintage #retro It's no secret that I tend to be a fan of the small brands. The brands that start out with a wish to do something different, pulling inspiration from somewhere outside the mainstream, and maybe without a primary goal of becoming a global brand.

[welldresseddadblog]

I seem to be on a bit of a roll these days when it comes to shirts that are made in London. Yesterday saw me mention Paladrin and their London-made workwear style and I have another couple of London-made shirts up my sleeve, so to speak, to be mentioned in due course.

Today though, I was invited to try a made to measure shirt by the Savile Row Company. Made to measure is a quite different world to what most of us normally operate in. Usually we’re trying to work out which size from small to large (or let’s be honest, from medium to extra large, right?) fits us the least worst. Mainly due to the fact that shirts are made to fit a more or less standard body (hang on, I wrote a rant about this a while back, here it is!). Unless you conform to a standard body of the region the shirt was designed, you’ll be cursed with something that fits poorly in most directions. Unless you’re lucky.

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The point of made to measure though is obvious. You have it made to fit your oddball middle-aged measurements, so orangutang arms, sloping shoulders, protruding paunch, bulging biceps or neanderthal neck are supposedly no problem. Like a popular song once said, “There’s not a problem that I can’t fix ‘Cause I can do it in the mix”, or in the case of shirts, cut it right and make it proper.

So how does one go about this process? Last time I had a shirt made I was visited by two chaps with tape measures and that worked out fine. This time I’m doing it by way of the Interweb and my missus with a tape measure. And it was very much easier than you might think. First off though I had to select the base model shirt from a bewildering selection of 56 shirts. Trust me, this is a hurdle to behold. Trying to pick one of 56 is not easy, and I almost gave up here as this is where you select the fabric of the end result and it wasn’t easy to discern the finer points on my laptop screen. Still, I finally settled on “Cream herringbone” (because I like cream and I like herring?) and moved on to the next step. And there are a few steps underway.

The first fork in the road is whether you wish to personalise your shirt. This is where you run through a series of choices regarding body shape (fitted or classic), shirt front (no placket, placket or fly front), cuff style (8 options, counting single and double cuffs!), then on to 5 variations of pockets, three options for buttons, twelve options for collar trim (in white or blue), four options for cuff trim and finally button thread options. Oh, not quite finally, you also have the option of adding a monogram with placement and style according to your taste.

A bewildering array of options? I thought so too. I’d suggest being sober of mind when going through the details. Remember, we’re aiming for sophisticated gent, not Jack Sparrow (though actually I don’t think pirate cuffs were an option, but you get the picture). Being a little sensible though you do in fact have all the options necessary to make a standard shirt in the style you prefer. And the process underway is made easier by each option being presented as a series of photos.

  Style is only part one though. Part two is where you have to step up and measure up. This requires a sober companion and will be a bit intimate, so enlist the help of someone with a little patience and sufficient eyesight and patience to reliably use the tape measure. Each measurement is really easy to understand, as there is a helpful video at each point of the way. This helps to remove any onerous discussions as to what is meant when you’re told to measure the cross section of the fibula to base of the upper torso midpoint (sorry, I made that one up, it’s really much easier than that).

Usually those of us that buy stuff online only look at one measurement, the P2P, or pit to pit. Multiplied by two this is the chest size of the shirt. If we’re being careful, we might consider the length of arms. In reality though there are a few more that are relevant: Neck size, waist size, hip (seat), height, yoke, sleeve length, back length, and naturally chest size. Oh, and whether you wear a watch and on which hand, and if it’s a chunky timepiece. Thankfully transforming this into a custom fitting shirt is the task of the tailor, eh?

Now, with all the measurements taken down, I’d suggest writing them into the notes-app on your phone for safekeeping. They’ll come in handy next time you’re eyeing up something online and need measurements to compare.

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Now, I worked my way through all this in the course of a small hour or so and submitted my order. And a week later there was a box delivered to my door from London. I have to admit, I was impressed at this point. And even more so when I unwrapped the contents and tried it on. It fits superbly. And is properly made and it looks very nice indeed. I can even do up the top button, and that’s a rare occurrence!

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Fits well in the body!

Arms are the right length!

And there is room for my neck!

Considering the price of 75 pounds, including free shipping, I think this is a very decent deal for what it is and where it’s made. I know I couldn’t go into town here and get anything off the shelf for less than twice the price, and considering the last dressy shirt I bought (which was closer to 200 pounds than 75) barely fit and didn’t last a single wash, it’s what the kids would call a no-brainer. And yes, I did exchange the poor quality shirt, the replacement fits no better and is almost translucent.

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I could swear these buttons are hand sewn!

Minus point for not very nice label poorly sloppily attached, but note: Made in UK

Lovely stitching

Oh, and I see they also do a 15% discount now if you sign up to their newsletter. More info at Savile Row Company.

Disclosure: I was invited to try the service and recieved my shirt without any cost to myself. My review and opinions is entirely my own work. 

Ordering made to measure shirts online? I test the Savile Row Company #savilerow #madetomeasure #review #blogger I seem to be on a bit of a roll these days when it comes to shirts that are made in London.