#Oleic Acid SDS | Explore Tumblr Posts and Blogs

uglinesses · 7 years

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The “no-cream routine”.

The routine can be as simple as two steps, and as complicated as you’d like. However, certain rules must be followed in order to ensure the efficacy of the routine.

RULES

Your moisturizer should be an oil rich in linoleic acid. Do not use a traditional lotion or cream.

Avoid pore-clogging ingredients. Saturated fatty acids, saturated fatty alcohols, saturated triglycerides, and high-oleic oils (e.g., lauric acid/lauryl alcohol, myristic acid/myristyl alcohol, palmitic acid/palmitates, stearic acid/stearyl alcohol/stearates, caprylic alcohol/caprylic triglyceride, cetearyl alcohol, coconut oil and coconut derivatives*, such as coconut alkanes). These are thickeners and emollients that give viscosity and solidity to traditional lotions and creams, and other products. They are likely to cause clogging, and should be avoided. Silicones can also be culprits for clogging, especially in combination with the aforementioned ingredients, but do not necessarily have to be avoided unless you have an identified sensitivity to them. Look for these ingredients in any leave-on products and avoid them. If you use a rinse-off product that contains them (such as an oil cleanser), make sure to use a cleanser afterward. *You may find coconut derivatives in cleansers, such as coco glucoside. These are OK.

Oil alone cannot moisturize the skin. Skin needs water, and using an oil on dry skin can cause skin to become dehydrated and irritated. Before applying the oil, either splash/spray water on your face and allow it to absorb before applying the oil, or apply a water-based hydrating treatment to the skin and allow it to absorb before applying the oil.

Do not harm your skin. Clogged pores, acne, dark spots, and the like may seem unsightly and be uncomfortable, and you may be tempted to try anything possible to rid your skin of all of its perceived imperfections overnight. However, it should always be your aim to be as gentle as possible with your skin, or you stand to make your existing skin issues worse and cause new problems. Avoid irritating ingredients such as isopropyl alcohol, sulfates, fragrance/parfum, irritating essential plant oils and their derivatives, and any other ingredients you may have allergies or sensitivities to. If you choose to use actives (such as antioxidants, exfoliants, prescription topicals, etc.), use as directed by a physician or the bare minimum to effect positive change in the skin without irritation.

THE ROUTINE

In general, the routine has four parts: CLEANSE (to clean away excess oil and debris without stripping the skin) - TREAT (using concentrated, targeted products to address specific skin issues) - MOISTURIZE (by layering oil over water) - PROTECT (during the daytime, with sunscreen).

The routine can be simplified as far as a rinse with water (to cleanse and hydrate [rule 3]) and the application of a linoleic acid-rich oil (to treat and moisturize). This alone may be enough for some people, and it may be a good starting point for someone new to skincare or looking to start from scratch.

Below, I provide a sample routine using seven products: CLEANSE (oil cleanser, gel cleanser), TREAT (AHA/BHA exfoliant(s), Vitamin C serum), MOISTURIZE (hydrating treatment, linoleic acid-rich oil), and PROTECT (sunscreen). I provide a rationale for each product, including recommendations, tips, and things to avoid.

CLEANSE

(1) Cleansing oil. Oil cleansing, especially with oils that are right for your skin, has the ability to physically loosen pore debris and clear out pores as you massage them into your skin. You will often feel the debris from your pores come out; the sensation will be gritty, and the debris is visible -- it can range from looking like grains of sand to grains of rice. Oil cleansing also effectively lifts makeup and sunscreen from the skin and pores, where only using a foaming cleanser might leave some behind. You have one of two options: a) you can use a plain, unadulterated linoleic acid-rich natural oil or synthetic oil as a cleansing oil, which cannot be rinsed off with water and must be wiped off with a hot damp cloth, or b) you can use a dedicated cleansing oil that is designed for skincare and can be rinsed off -- it will turn white and milky upon contact with water.

I RECOMMEND: If you choose to use an unadulterated oil as a cleanser, use a linoleic acid-rich oil, such as hemp seed oil, grapeseed oil, sunflower oil, or high-linoleic (not high-oleic!) safflower oil. Oils rich in linoleic acid (as opposed to oleic acid) have the ability to dilute sebum and dissolve pore clogs without clogging pores themselves. If you choose to use a dedicated skincare cleansing oil, I suggest Kose Softymo Speedy Cleansing Oil; Kose Softymo Deep Cleansing Oil*; Innisfree Apple Juicy Cleansing Oil; Simple Hydrating Cleansing Oil. Some people swear by medical-grade 100% mineral oil, a synthetic oil, as a cleansing oil. If you decide to use mineral oil, opt for one from the pharmacy aisle as opposed to the baby aisle (i.e., baby oil), as baby oil often contains fragrance and additives.

AVOID: Oils rich in oleic acid and saturated fatty acids, such as coconut oil. They are more likely to clog pores and may not be completely cleansed from the skin even after using a foaming cleanser.

TIP: Do not rinse or cleanse your face before applying your cleansing oil. Water and water residue on your skin will interfere with the oil’s ability to penetrate into your pores. Apply the oil cleanser to your dry, untouched face.

TIP: Firmly massage the oil over your skin to remove sunscreen and/or makeup and and to loosen debris from the pores, paying special attention to areas where you have clogged pores. Be sure not to press too hard or rub too vigorously, or you may cause redness, inflammation, or broken capillaries.

(2) Low-to-neutral pH (between pH 4.5-7) gel or cream cleanser. This is to remove clogging residues from the oil cleanser and any remaining debris. A low-to-neutral pH is important to keep your skin from feeling stripped and irritated, and to ensure that the products you put on your face next work well.

I RECOMMEND: La Roche-Posay Effaclar Purifying Foaming Cleanser*; CosRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser; Neutrogena Ultra Gentle Daily Cleanser, Foaming Formula

TREAT

(3) AHA (usually glycolic acid) and/or BHA (salicylic acid or salicylic acid derivative) leave-on treatment (Optional). AHAs work on the surface of the skin to open up clogged pores, bumps, lift hyper-pigmentation, and smooth skin texture. BHAs penetrate into pore debris, reduce acne inflammation, and also smooth skin texture. You can use one or the other, or use both — there are also products that contain both.

I RECOMMEND: Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid; CosRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid (4% betaine salicylate, a good option for sensitive skin); CosRX AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid (7% glycolic acid); Deciem The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution; Neostrata Acne Clear Clarifying Solution* (10% glycolic acid, 2% salicylic acid)

AVOID: If you have sensitive or dehydrated skin, avoid AHA and BHA products that contain large amounts of alcohol (denatured alcohol, SD alcohol, and isopropyl alcohol are all names for the same ingredient), as alcohol can be drying, irritating, and cause inflammation.

TIP: You may not need an AHA/BHA — all that may need to happen for you is the elimination and replacement of irritating and pore-clogging products in your routine. This is why AHA/BHA is optional. Also, you may not need to use an AHA/BHA forever — if your skin clears, you continue to avoid irritating and pore-clogging products and ingredients, and you find that your skin remains uncongested after stopping the use of an AHA/BHA, you can remove it from your routine.

TIP: AHAs are photosensitizing (i.e., make you more sensitive to the sun) no matter what time of day they are applied. Be sure to use sunscreen when using an AHA, year-round.

TIP: If you have never used an AHA or BHA before, make sure to test it on an inconspicuous patch of skin to ensure that it is something your skin can tolerate.

TIP: If you choose to use both an AHA product and a BHA product, either a) use BHA in the morning and AHA at night, as AHAs are photosensitizing, or b) if you have more tolerant skin, use the AHA first and layer the BHA over top as a spot treatment on clogged areas.

TIP: Build up your tolerance to AHA/BHA to the point of maximum effectiveness without irritation, redness, flakiness, and dehydration. There is no need to use an AHA and/or BHA more than necessary — this can cause irritation, inflammation, and damage your skin if your skin is unable to tolerate it. If you only need an AHA/BHA once a week, only use it once a week. If once a week isn’t cutting it, use it once every few days. If that isn’t enough, once every other day, then once a day, up to twice a day.

TIP: If you are prone to ingrown facial and neck hair, AHAs and BHAs alone or together can help to resolve bumps from ingrown hair, can prevent new ingrown hair when applied after hair removal, and can treat hyper-pigmentation and uneven skin texture from ingrown hair.

(4) Vitamin C serum (Optional). Vitamin C is a well-researched antioxidant with proven benefits -- it treats underlying existing cell damage and protects from future damage, evens skin tone, reduces hyper-pigmentation, and more. A powerhouse and staple.

I RECOMMEND: Deciem Hylamide C25 Booster*; Deciem The Ordinary’s many, many inexpensive vitamin C serum options; Paula’s Choice C15 Booster

TIP: You may not necessarily want or need to use a Vitamin C serum. However, it is an effective treatment and preventative for hyper-pigmentation and sun damage. It’s up to you to decide if it’s something you’d like in your routine.

TIP: Vitamin C can be irritating. Make sure to test it on an inconspicuous patch of skin to ensure that you can tolerate it.

TIP: There are a plethora of forms of vitamin C. L-ascorbic acid has been the gold standard for a long time, against which all other vitamin C derivatives are compared -- but it is sensitive to heat, light, and oxygen and goes bad easily if not formulated and stored properly. It can also be irritating because of the very low pH of serums that contain it. Consider some of the newer-generation vitamin C derivatives that are more stable, less irritating, and also effective, such as ethyl ascorbic acid (my favourite) and hexyl glyceryl ascorbate.

TIP: Opt for clear, colourless vitamin C serums so that you can tell when your vitamin C has gone bad. Many brands use dyes to mask this. You will know your vitamin C is beginning to go bad when the serum turns pale yellow. Some people stop using the serum at the first indication that it is changing. However, if the serum is bad enough (i.e., dark yellow, orange or brown) it is not only ineffective, but damaging to your skin.

TIP: It’s not necessary to use a Vitamin C serum twice a day or every day if daily use is too irritating for your skin. Vitamin C stays active in the skin for three days, and only accumulates in the skin up to a certain threshold. You can use it only as often as needed to replenish that threshold and still benefit.

TIP: Vitamin C and sunscreen work synergistically — Vitamin C strengthens the photo-protective power of sunscreen.

MOISTURISE

(5) Hydrating treatment(s). Should be liquid at room temperature, water-based (for hydration's sake), and contain ingredients that target your concerns in addition to moisturizing ingredients. The purpose of this step is to infuse moisture into the skin. Hydrating treatments include moisturizing toners (as opposed to astringent toners), skin toners, skin conditioners, essences, treatment lotions (which are liquid and moisturizing) as opposed to traditional lotions (which are in cream form), and serums. Most of those terms are interchangeable except for serums, which deliver high concentrations of specific ingredients to the skin. These can range from thin and watery to milky to viscous and gel-like. This step will most likely use Asian (generally Japanese or Korean) skincare products, as there isn’t as much variety or choice among American and European products -- although there are a few options (Lancôme’s Tonique Confort and many of Estée Lauder’s Treatment Lotions come to mind). More than one hydrating treatment can be used, especially if their benefits differ.

I RECOMMEND: It is important to figure out what your skin concerns are. This a huge class of products with widely-ranging ingredients and purposes, and it is important to use products that target your concerns as opposed to tacking on unnecessary products for the sake of doing so. However, the main purpose they should serve is moisturization and hydration. Seek out water or water-based ingredients, glycerin, ceramides, sphingosines, and hyaluronic acids in your hydrating treatment. Basic hydrating treatments include Cezanne Skin Conditioner High Moist (contains ceramides, phytosphingosine, hyaluronic acid) and the Hada-Labo Gokujyun Lotions (contain varying amounts and types of hyaluronic acid, among other ingredients). Is your skin easily irritated or sensitive? Licorice root extract and niacinamide are skincare workhorses that reduce inflammation, treat hyper-pigmentation, help the skin to retain moisture, and repair and prevent cell damage.

AVOID: Pore clogging ingredients (see Rule 2).

AVOID: Large amounts of drying alcohol (ethanol, denatured alcohol, SD alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, etc.). I generally don’t mind alcohol in treatment or sunscreen steps, but because this is a moisturizing step that is meant to condition and soothe the skin, this is the one place where I do my best to avoid it (see rule 4).

TIP: In general, hydrating treatments (except serums) are much more cost-effective than traditional facial lotions and creams. Moisturizing toners, essences, skin conditioners, treatment lotions, and the like often come in volumes of 150-500mL. Skin conditioners are notoriously cost-effective, often less than $25 for 500mL of product. Look out for Kikumasamune, Cezanne, Hatomugi, and Princess Mother.

TIP: Serums are small-volume (usually 50mL) products that deliver high concentrations of specific ingredients and/or target specific skin concerns. They aren’t necessary or as cost-effective as higher-volume hydrating treatments like toners, essences and lotions. Higher-volume hydrating treatments can also deliver high concentrations of specific ingredients. However, serums can be a good option.

TIP: If using more than one hydrating treatment, apply them from thinnest to thickest. This will ensure that each treatment can penetrate the skin.

(6) A linoleic acid-rich oil. High-linoleic oils are lighter than and sink in more easily in more easily than oils less rich in linoleic acid. They can dissolve pore clogs, dilute sebum to prevent future clogs, balance oil production, seal in moisture, and smooth, soothe, and condition skin. They are also a nourishing group of oils, containing high amounts of omega-3, -6, and -9, antioxidants, and anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-inflammatory compounds, depending on the oil. Unrefined, cold-pressed oils are your best bet for nutrient retention. Look out for non-GMO and certified organic labels, too.

I RECOMMEND: Hemp seed oil*, rosehip seed oil, marula oil, borage seed oil, meadowfoam oil, argan oil, grapeseed oil, watermelon seed oil, and high-linoleic (not high-oleic!) safflower oil are all good options for oily, clog-prone skin. Some people have good results with jojoba oil, a monounsaturated oil, because of its similarity to the oil our skin produces naturally. Squalane oil, a saturated oil usually derived from olives or sugarcane (but is sometimes extracted from shark livers), is another interesting, light and antioxidant-rich option for clog-prone skin.

AVOID: High-oleic oils and oils high in saturated fatty acids. These oils tend to be thicker and more likely to clog pores. Coconut oil is the main one to avoid here — if you are clog-prone, it is almost certain that coconut oil will clog your pores. Even if your skin can tolerate coconut oil, there are much more nourishing and less risky oils out there. Olive oil and avocado oil can also be clogging, but some people find success using them.

TIP: If you’re using a natural linoleic acid-rich oil in step 1 as opposed to a dedicated skincare cleansing, you can use in this step if that’s what works for you.

TIP: Oils alone cannot hydrate the skin -- if you do not use an adequate step 5 or if your skin is not well-hydrated, your skin can become dry, dehydrated, flaky, and sensitive, and may even overproduce its own oil to compensate. Make sure your skin is comfortably hydrated before applying an oil.

TIP: Each oil has a unique profile of pros and cons. For example, hemp seed oil is completely non-clogging and high in antioxidants, but is highly sensitive to heat, light, and oxygen and can go rancid if not stored properly. Do your research to find out which linoleic acid-rich oil is best for you, your needs, and your sensitivities and allergies.

TIP: Many linoleic acid-rich oils are sensitive to heat, light, and oxygen. Buy a 1oz amber/dark brown glass dropper bottle — fill it with the oil of your choice, and keep the rest of the oil in its original packaging in the fridge. Use the oil from the dropper bottle only, and refill when necessary to avoid unnecessary exposure. Depending on how sensitive the oil is (e.g., hemp seed oil), keep the glass dropper bottle of oil in the fridge too when not in use. Don’t let your oil sit in a steamy bathroom.

TIP: Consider a blended facial oil from a skincare brand. They’re more expensive, but often contain a combination of beneficial oils, oils that are harder to find for the average person, and are formulated with certain skincare goals in mind.

TIP: Consider making your own blended facial oil! There are many guides on the Internet -- a good place to start is Reddit’s /r/DIYBeauty and /r/skincareaddiction.

TIP: Apply the oil to your brows, eyelashes, and facial hair to condition and nourish the hair, reduce fallout and brittleness, and retain length. You will immediately feel a difference in the softness and flexibility of your lashes and brow hair. Facial hair often suffers from being stripped by cleansers and makeup removers, and is neglected during moisturizing, especially in traditional routines using facial lotions and creams that can’t penetrate into the hair. Make sure the oil is safe to use in the eye area before applying to eyelashes — some oils contain volatile compounds that can be damaging to eyes.

PROTECT

(7) Sunscreen. Prevents sun damage from UVA and UVB rays. Exposure to UVA and UVB rays can cause cell and DNA damage and inflammation, can cause and worsen acne, and can cause and worsen hyper-pigmentation. While UVB rays are most active during the summer, UVA rays are present all year round. A sunscreen should be worn all year round.

I RECOMMEND: Shiseido Sun Protection Spray SPF 50+* (alcohol- and silicone-based); Clinique Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Sunscreen Virtu-Oil Body Mist. Both of these sunscreens are completely clear.

TIP: I also recommend having a look at Asian sunscreens — there is so much more variety among them than among American and European sunscreens, and much more choice in terms of ingredients, finishes, and consistencies.

TIP: To avoid the chalky or blue-purple tint that many sunscreens can give deeper skin tones, avoid titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. They are physical sunscreen filters that work by reflecting UV rays away from the skin. Instead, opt for chemical sunscreen filters — they are clear, and work by absorbing UV rays before they reach skin cells.

TIP: Those tiny bottles of American and European dedicated “facial” sunscreens are more often than not a capitalist ploy. Opt for spray (NOT aerosol) sunscreens. They come in much bigger bottles (100-250mL) and are often formulated identically to dedicated facial sunscreens.

TIP: Chemical sunscreens take 15-20 minutes to “activate” after application. Be sure to give yourself enough time before going into the sun.

STEPS IN ACTION

AM: A rinse with warm water will suffice -- but if needed, a bit of foaming cleanser is fine, too. > Apply AHA/BHA treatment only on problem areas or if/as needed. Allow it to absorb. > Apply vitamin C serum if needed/desired. Allow it to absorb. > Apply hydrating treatment(s). Allow it to sink in, so as not to interfere with oil application. > 2-3 drops of oil — massage over face. Allow it to absorb so that it doesn’t interfere with sunscreen application. > Apply sunscreen — be sure to spread it as evenly and liberally as possible. Wait 15-20 minutes before going outside.

PM: Massage dry, uncleansed face with oil cleanser, focusing on problem areas. Wipe with hot damp cloth or rinse. > Massage foaming cleanser on damp face. Rinse. > Apply AHA/BHA treatment if needed/desired. Allow it to absorb fully — a few minutes. > Apply vitamin C serum if needed/desired — give it a minute to absorb. > Apply hydrating treatment(s) — let it sink in. > 2-3 drops of oil — massage over face.

GENERAL TIPS

This routine, specifically oil cleansing, AHA/BHA, and sealing with an oil, may cause some bumps and clogged pores to come to a head and turn into whiteheads and pimples. This isn’t a breakout — this is your pores releasing debris. You may even see it happen in real time while massaging your oil cleanser into your problem areas. I sure did. However, watch out for breakouts in places where you weren’t previously breaking out, more severe breakouts, inflammation, and/or oiliness than you previously had, or entirely new skin problems. This indicates that something isn’t working for you, and that your routine needs trouble-shooting and/or simplifying. Listen to your skin.

Be realistic and patient. No skincare routine or product is an overnight cure. In general, it takes six weeks to determine whether or not a product or routine is working for you. However, you should observe some improvement over the course of those six weeks -- and at the end of it, you should be better off than you were when you started.

Do your research. This post is long, but isn’t exhaustive, and there are plenty of possibilities and lots of background information for each of these steps. The Reddit boards /r/skincareaddiction and /r/asianbeauty are wonderful starting points and resources. See my last point in this section for a caveat.

Avoid the ingredient “fragrance/parfum” in products, rinse-off and leave-on, if you can. Fragrance encompasses a vast group of ingredients, many of which are irritating to the skin — but you wouldn’t be able to identify which ingredients are irritating you, because they are blanket-labelled as fragrance/parfum.

Don’t succumb to product/ingredient fetishism. Certainly, it’s good to try new things, especially when you haven’t yet found what works for you -- but remember that the beauty industry (and capitalism in general) thrives on the fabrication of “problems” and on inducing a panic among consumers that only spending money can “solve” or alleviate. If you don’t need it, don’t buy it, don’t think about it -- don’t worry about it! If what you have works for you and something different or more expensive comes along, there’s no need to try it or make the switch — especially since introducing new products into your routine always carries a bit of risk. If something about your skin that you never noticed or perceived as a flaw or concern before is suddenly framed as a problem by the beauty industry, bloggers, forum members, and the like, take it with a grain of salt.

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