#Marvellous architecture ~ Esfahan

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A FIRST-TIME visitor to Iran? THINGS IN IRAQ YOU SHOULD NOT MISS

For a first-time visitor setting foot in the heart of the Middle East, the distinction between Iran and Iraq's rich varieties of culture, history, and natural wonders is paramount. Iran, with its millennia-old ruins, epitomises the grandeur of ancient Persia, especially in Persepolis. This ceremonial capital invites travellers to relive an era of unmatched splendour, where art and architecture knew no bounds. Meanwhile, the poetic city of Esfahan in Iran claims the title of "Half of the World." Its vibrant Islamic architecture and the majestic Naqsh-e Jahan Square capture the imagination of every wanderer. On the other hand, Iraq, a cradle of civilizations, possesses its own plethora of historic sites waiting to be explored. Both nations, with intertwined yet distinct histories, offer unforgettable experiences for those embarking on a Middle Eastern journey. So, while you delve deep into Iran's ancient cities, don't miss out on the treasures that Iraq holds within its borders.

Here are some things you should not miss in Iraq.

Journey to Ancient Persia: Prepare for a remarkable journey through time as you explore Persepolis, the awe-inspiring capital of the Achaemenid Empire. Nestled in Fars Province, these captivating remains offer a remarkable window into the night and artistic brilliance of ancient Persia. Adorned with stunning reliefs and towering columns, it's no wonder that Persepolis has earned prestigious recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Don't miss the chance to immerse yourself in history by visiting the legendary Gate of All Nations and the magnificent Apadana Palace."

The Half of the World: Known as "Nesf-e-Jahan" or the "Half of the World," Esfahan is home to some of the most stunning Islamic architecture in the world. The magnificent Naqsh-e Jahan Square, the second-largest square on the planet, is surrounded by iconic landmarks such as the Shah Mosque, the Ali Qapu Palace, and the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque. While wandering around the city, you'll come across picturesque bridges like Si-o-se-pol and the Khaju Bridge – idyllic spots to unwind and take in the breathtaking views.

 The Heartbeat of Modern Iran: Experience the vibrant fusion of tradition and modernity in the lively capital city of Tehran. Delve into Iran's rich history at the National Museum of Iran, where you can explore fascinating exhibits. Uncover the beauty of the Golestan Palace, boasting mirrored halls and exquisite gardens situated in the core of the city. And for an unforgettable panoramic view of the sprawling metropolis, don't miss the chance to ascend the Milad Tower. Tehran is where the modern spirit of Iran truly comes alive.

 The Quintessence of Persian Landscape: When talking about Shiraz, one can't help but think of poetry, enchanting gardens, and fine wine. This remarkable city gave birth to legendary Persian poets such as Hafez and Sa'adi, whose resting places have been transformed into serene gardens. Make sure to visit these peaceful havens during your stay. In addition, don't miss out on the opportunity to explore the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Eram Garden, which perfectly captures the essence of Persian garden design.

Dunes and Dreams: Marvel at the sheer beauty of the Lut Desert, recognised as one of the hottest spots on our planet. The vast expanse of the Gandom Beryan plateau boasts scorching ground temperatures that astound even the most seasoned travelers. However, it's not just the intense heat that draws visitors in, but also the extraordinary landscapes. Prepare to be mesmerised by the endless sand dunes and the artistry of the wind-carved Yardangs—colossal ridges that add a surreal touch to this extraordinary desert.

Treasures of Tabriz Bazaar: Nestled in the charming northern city of Tabriz, this bazaar holds the distinction of being one of the most ancient and expansive covered marketplaces worldwide. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it's a labyrinth of winding passageways, caravanserais, and magnificent domed halls. Meandering through its bustling aisles, you'll discover a treasure trove of enticing merchandise, ranging from fragrant spices to exquisite jewellery. Immerse yourself in the vibrant atmosphere of this extraordinary place, where you can feel the beating heart of the legendary Silk Road and even collect some mementos to cherish.

A Biodiverse Coastal Paradise: For those yearning to escape the arid scenery, head to Iran's inviting northern coastline along the vast Caspian Sea, where lush green panoramas await. Towns like Rasht and Bandar-e Anzali beckon with their delectable fresh seafood offerings and serve as gateways to the majestic Hirnantian forests. These ancient woodlands, designated as UNESCO sites, have thrived for an astonishing 25 to 50 million years. Within their leafy embrace, you'll encounter a thriving tapestry of biodiverse wonders, making this coastal paradise an absolute haven for nature enthusiasts.

Embarking on a journey through the Middle East is like diving into a deeply-layered mosaic of history, culture, and natural wonders. For travellers purchasing an Iran tour package from India, Iran unfurls a canvas of mesmerising landscapes and ancient treasures. Its majestic ruins, especially in the iconic Persepolis, transport visitors back to an era when Persia was an epicentre of art and knowledge. But as one meanders through Iran's poetic streets, neighbouring Iraq beckons with its own allure. First-time visitors often stand at the crossroads of modernity and antiquity in Iraq, from the bustling bazaars to the age-old Mesopotamian sites. These two nations, sharing history yet retaining their unique identities, promise an unforgettable Middle Eastern sojourn. So, while Iran's allure might capture the heart, the soul shouldn't miss out on the myriad wonders Iraq offers. It's not just a trip, but a journey through time.

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Marvellous architecture ~ Esfahan, Iran. Photo by @thepathlesswandered http://ift.tt/2BaGEUu

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Travelling to Iran? Things to Know Before You Go.

I harboured a dream of travelling to Iran for a long time, but when it came down to finally planning a month-long trip in the country earlier this year, I had no clue where to begin. Iran recently started offering e-visa for Indian passport holders – but ours got rejected. I typically look at websites like Expedia, Skyscanner, Kayak and Goibibo to book flights – but none of these aggregate flights to/from Iran. I use Airbnb and Booking.com to find experiential accommodations around the world – but none of these work in Iran. I use Visa or Mastercard to pay or withdraw money from ATMs abroad – but neither of them work in Iran; to complicate matters, there are two exchange rates and two currencies in Iran. I buy travel insurance from World Nomads or Indian companies – but none of these cover travel in Iran. Hell, even Facebook, Twitter and BBC don’t work in Iran!

Slowly, we made our way through these challenges, discovering new sites and travel hacks, with a lingering concern over whether Iran was worth the trouble. Turns out, if there’s one country in the world that’s worth the pre-trip hassle, it’s Iran.

So I decided to write this detailed Iran travel blog, with all my tips on how to plan your first independent trip to Iran:

A glorious view while landing in Iran.

Why you should visit Iran in 2019

While many popular cities around the world are suffering from too many tourists, Iran is the polar opposite. Tourism is so low that you can have mind-blowing experiences across the country – from the exquisite Nasir-ol-molk in Shiraz to the Kaluts Desert near Kerman – pretty much all to yourself. On offer are bazaars dating back a thousand years, architectural marvels from ancient empires, geographically unique (and often bizarre) islands and deserts, unexpectedly well-developed infrastructure, stunning gardens and cypress groves that inspired generations of poets, and above all, local friendships that’ll help you find a lost part of your soul.

Also read: Why You Should Drop Everything and Travel to Iran Now

Is Iran safe to visit

I remember sitting in a basement resto in Shiraz, watching the local news on television. The screen was split in two: on one side, Trump was raving about how Iranians were going through complete hell because of his sanctions on the country. On the other side, streamed a live feed from Esfahan’s tree-lined boulevards, with locals casually walking and eating roasted chestnuts – just a regular day in the country.

I’ve repeatedly been asked: Is Iran safe to travel? The country’s political regime is oppressive, and its relations with the US have been deteriorating, yet life in Iran isn’t what it’s often depicted to be in Western media. I actually felt safer there than many popular tourist destinations. As with anywhere else, stay aware of the on-going political situation and speak to a local tour operator in Iran to gauge how things really are.

Also read: We Travel to Realise Everyone is Wrong About Other Countries

Iran travel tip: Connect with locals. Exploring Isfahan with a local artist.

Iran tourist visa on an Indian passport

Indian passport holders visiting Iran can now avail of a 30-day Iran e-visa – but like many others, ours got rejected without an explanation. We took the long-winded route of applying for an Iran tourist visa at the Iran consulate in Mumbai. The process is as follows:

Get in touch with an Iranian travel company and ask them to apply for a visa code on your behalf. Send them your passport copy, tentative trip itinerary and a form. We applied through Uppersia; they process visa codes if you book a trip through them.

Once you receive a visa code (takes upto 10 days), submit your documents at the embassy. The submission rules are still archaic; in addition to our travel documents, we had to submit medical tests for TB and HIV! To know the latest list of documents, call the Iranian consulate in the city you plan to apply, since they differed between Mumbai and Delhi.

We paid extra to expedite our Iran tourist visa, which then took 2-3 days since submission.

Also read: How I Manage Visas on My Indian Passport as I Travel Around the Globe

Entering the US after travelling to Iran

The good news is that the Iran tourist visa is not stamped on your passport. It is a separate physical document, and even at immigration in Iran, only the document is stamped at entry and exit. So in theory, there’s no proof on your passport that you’ve been to Iran. I haven’t travelled to the US after Iran, but I still expect to be interrogated if and when I do.

If you plan to travel to the US in the near future, I highly recommend that you apply for a US tourist visa before visiting Iran – since in the US visa application, you need to disclose all countries you’ve ever set foot in. Chances are, in a post-Trump US, this won’t be an issue.

Also read: US Tourist Visa for Indians: Tips and Requirements

Booking flights to Iran from India

International websites like Expedia, Skyscanner, Goibibo etc don’t aggregate flights to / from Iran. So we individually looked at airline websites like Emirates, Mahan Air (an Iranian carrier), Iranian Airlines – and found a sweet deal from Mumbai to Shiraz! To get the best deal, check not only flights to Tehran but also Shiraz and other cities.

Also read: How I’m Financially Sustaining My Digital Nomad Lifestyle

Iran travel tip: Go beyond the cities. An evening at Chakooh Canyon on Qeshm Island, Iran.

The best time to visit Iran

All locals unanimously agreed that spring (late March – early May) and autumn (late September – early November) are the best times to visit most parts of Iran, except the mountainous northern regions. We factored the weather into our travel plans in Feb/March, and ended up exploring the southern islands of Qeshm and Hormuz, and the Kaluts desert – too hot to visit at other times of the year.

Also read: Why You Shouldn’t Put Off Your Travel Dreams

The official and unofficial exchange rates in Iran

Since Mastercard and Visa debit / credit cards don’t work in Iran, not even in ATMs, carrying cash (US$) into Iran is the only option. Upon landing in Iran, we exchanged 50 USD at the airport’s money exchange counter, and were surprised to receive a HUGE wad of local currency – 3 times the exchange rate. That’s when we learnt that there are two exchange rates in Iran.

The unofficial exchange rate is 3 times the official one; it currently ranges from 11000-14000 rial to a dollar. This made our trip to Iran 3 times cheaper than we had originally budgeted for! It’s possible to exchange USD pretty much anywhere in Iran – at a hotel, money exchange, a random shop on the street, even with a taxi driver. Just make sure you get the unofficial rate.

Also read: 6 Months, 6 Countries: Epic Memories from Central America

Iran’s two currencies

Currency in Iran is super confusing, for there are two legal currencies – Toman and Rial; 1 toman=10 rial. Most prices are quoted in toman, but it’s always good to ask. We gradually found our bearings and also felt grateful that except for one unsuspecting encounter, no one tried to rip us off.

Also read: Creative Ways I’ve Learnt to Manage Money on My Travels Abroad

Finding unique accommodations in Iran

Since Airbnb and booking.com don’t work in Iran, we relied largely on TripAdvisor and Instagram to figure out our accommodations. Homestays, guesthouses and hotels all need to be emailed individually and paid either through bank transfer (a complicated process from India) or in cash. Thanks to a collaboration with Uppersia – a local travel company managed by an Iranian, all-women team – almost all our accommodations were arranged through them. They recommended some local guesthouses that only Farsi speakers can find, and also conveyed my vegan dietary requirements to all accommodations.

Also read: Dreamy Airbnbs to Experience Europe Like a Local

Iran travel tip: Plan your trip based on the season. The stunning salt caves of Qeshm Island are only worth visiting in winter.

Travel insurance for Iran

Most travel insurance companies -World Nomads, HDFC Ergo, Bajaj Allianz etc, don’t cover travel in Iran. We ultimately found IATI, a Spanish company that offers travel insurance in Iran. Luckily, we didn’t need to use our travel insurance, but it’s always reassuring to have one no matter where you go.

Also read: Travelling Abroad First Time? 10 Questions on Your Mind

Learning conversational Farsi to travel in Iran

Although it’s possible to get by with English in the cities, most people on the countryside only speak Farsi. We ended up learning a bit of conversational Farsi through the brilliant podcast Chai and Conversation – and practicing it with locals throughout Iran. Some basic phrases you should know:

Salam: Hello

Sobh bekher: Good morning

Chitori: How are you?

Befarmah: Welcome (you’ll hear it very often)

Merci: Thank you (like in French)

Nushe jahan: roughly translates to ‘my pleasure’

Also read: How to Earn Money While Travelling

Accessing social networks in Iran

While Instagram and Gmail can be legally accessed in Iran, you need VPN for everything else.

We ended up using Express VPN all month – safe, fast and allowed us to access everything we would in our lives outside of Iran. Make sure you download the Express VPN app and pay for a subscription before you enter Iran. One subscription allows upto 3 devices to be connected.

I also tried Nord VPN and some free VPNs, but Express VPN was by far the fastest and most reliable. Wifi is readily available at homestays, and a local SIM card is cheap and useful.

Also read: How Croatia Compelled Me to Rethink Travel Blogging

What to pack for Iran / What to wear in Iran

Unfortunately it’s true that women need to wear a hijab (headscarf), and cover their arms, butts and legs while in public spaces in Iran. Within your accommodation, it’s usually okay to let your hair loose. It’s rather fascinating to see how Iranian women transition from their often footloose, fashionable lifestyle at home to being fully covered while stepping out.

My relationship with the hijab quickly changed from nonchalance to annoyance to resentment, and finally to empathy for the women who don’t have a choice. Having said that, I must emphasize that we cannot judge Iranian women by the hijab. I met so many free-spirited, independent, badass, inspiring women across the country.

I didn’t buy any new clothes for Iran, except for a light long sleeve cardigan that covered both my arms and butt. I paired that with t-shirts, tops, even dresses while wearing leggings below. Note that Iran has a dress code for men too – shirts with sleeves (no sleeveless) and long pants. If only they’d cover their head in solidarity!

Also read: How I Fit All My Life Possessions in Two Bags as I Travel the World

Iran travel tip: Learn a bit of Farsi to make the most of your trip. Umbrella art in Shiraz.

Vegan and vegetarian food in Iran

I was quite worried about being vegan in a meat-loving country like Iran, but relieved to stumbled upon Iran Vegan Travel – a small company that aggregates vegan hosts across Iran. We ended up staying at an all vegan guesthouse in Isfahan (which has changed hands since, sigh) and with a lovely vegan Iranian family in Tabriz. That meant incredible vegan Iranian food (including vegan kebabs) and veganised traditional Iranian dishes like kuku sabzi and ghormet sabzi.

During the rest of our trip across Iran, I relied heavily on the HappyCow App to find vegan-friendly restaurants and cafes. Many of our homestay hosts were accommodating enough to customise local dishes without animal products.

Also read: The Ultimate Vegan (and Vegetarian) Survival Guide for Japan

“Tarof” and how to accept Iranian hospitality

Tarof is Persian etiquette that puts the guest first: taxi drivers refuse to accept money for a ride, homestay owners refuse to let you pay for your stay, hosts stuff you with food, strangers offer to pay for your meals or entrance to an attraction, even fresh juice shops refuse to take your money. This kindness towards strangers is deeply rooted in Persian culture (much like in Indian hospitality) – but please, don’t take advantage of it to score a free meal or stay.

The rule of thumb is that if someone refuses your money or offers to pay for you 3 times, they genuinely mean it. Otherwise it’s tarof – it’s in their culture to offer, and we should reciprocate the gesture with gratitude but insist on paying our fair share. I’ve read accounts of travellers who ended up getting their accommodation, food, even transport free – which sucks, because the Iranian economy is doing terribly, tourism is one of the few avenues to make money, and as travellers, we should really know better than to take advantage of a local’s warm-hearted hospitality. Almost everything that you would pay for abroad, insist on paying for in Iran.

Also read: Inspiring Places to Live, Work and Explore as a Digital Nomad in 2019

Iran travel tip: Connect with Iran Vegan Travel to find vegan Iranian hosts around the country.

Solo travel in Iran

Although I didn’t travel solo on this trip, I can totally imagine doing it. The locals are hospitable and always up for a conversation, hardly anyone will try to tout you, there is much to keep you occupied, it feels safe enough and it’s one of the most affordable countries to solo travel in.

Also read: What Solo Travel Has Taught Me About the World – and Myself

Where to go in Iran

Even as someone who doesn’t like spending too long in cities, I absolutely fell in love with Shiraz and Isfahan. The old gardens, stunning architecture, small-town vibe, tree-lined streets, old bazaars, nearby villages, there’s so much to love. Among other highlights of our trip were the islands of Qeshm and Hormuz, the Kaluts Desert and the cities of Kerman and Tabriz. Look out for my travel recommendations for Iran, coming soon.

Also read: A Guide to Exploring the High Tatras of Slovakia

Travelling around Iran by public transport

VIP buses are surprisingly amazing in Iran, and can comfortably ferry you across long distances. Infact, ours turned into a land journey from the Persian Gulf, via the south of Iran, to Yerevan in Armenia! It’s best to ask your host to book your bus ticket online, since websites are only in Farsi. Trains only ply a few routes in Iran.

Within cities and for short excursions nearby, we used local taxis – either booked through our accommodation or hailed directly on the street. In smaller places, many people will stop their cars to give you a taxi ride for a quick buck – which is totally safe. A little bit of haggling is common, but don’t go overboard considering the state of the economy.

Also read: What Indian Cities Can Learn from Copenhagan about Green Tourism

Getting over Iran!

For a couple of months after I left Iran, my world felt bland, soulless. I threw myself into Iranian films, Persian music, books by Saadi and other Persian poets, and began learning the Urdu script so I could slowly make my way to Farsi. Yeah, withdrawal symptoms of Iran seem to be common among travellers. The only solution is to go back, again and again

Also read: How Travelling is Breaking My Heart

Until next time… Qeshm island, Iran.

Helpful Iran travel blogs

Travestyle: An awesome travel blog run by an Iranian couple based in Iran. Their posts on offbeat Iran and what to wear in Iran were particularly helpful.

Against the compass: Offers a wealth of information about independent travel in Iran – and other countries under the tourist radar.

Books, music and movies about Iran

A small selection of Iranian books, music and movies I love:

Music: Blue Flowers (album) by Marjan Farsad.

Books: Reading Lolita in Tehran by Azar Nafisi; The 40 Rules of Love by Elif Shafak (based on the lives of Rumi and Tabriz).

Movies: Taxi by Jafar Panahi; A Separation and About Elly by Asghar Farhadi.

Got questions about your trip to Iran? Have experiences you’d like to share from Iran? Ask / share away in the comments.

*Note: I travelled to Iran in collaboration with Uppersia. Opinions on this blog, as you can tell, are always mine!

Join my adventures around the world virtually on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter! I’m currently exploring Uzbekistan and Tajikistan in Central Asia.

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Travelling to Iran? Things to Know Before You Go. published first on https://airriflelab.tumblr.com

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Dating back around 3,000 years, the qanat is an ingenious and sustainable solution to Iran’s dearth of easily accessible water.

By Joobin Bekhrad

20 June 2018

What on Earth are those? I thought to myself shortly before landing in the Iranian city of Esfahan one summer. From the aeroplane window, I could see what looked like a cross between freakishly large anthills and obscure symbols left by an extraterrestrial race. Little could I – then only a teenager – have guessed what lay beneath their mysterious surfaces.

The ancient Iranians had a huge task not only to survive, but also to conquer almost all their then-known world

If, throughout the ages, there’s one element my people have revered more than fire – known as the ‘Son of God’ in the ancient Iranian faith of Zoroastrianism – it’s undoubtedly water. The Iran in which various Aryan tribes settled millennia ago was a rich, vast and variegated expanse of land, as it is today. It also, however, happened to be incredibly dry. The ancient Iranians had a huge task not only to survive, but also to conquer almost all their then-known world.

To find pure water in an arid and unforgiving landscape, and create lush vistas in (literally) the middle of nowhere, might have seemed an impossible undertaking. However, they found an effective and sustainable solution to Iran’s dearth of easily accessible water in the marvel of ancient Iranian engineering known as the kariz, more popularly known by its Arabic name, the qanat. Dating back some 3,000-odd years, and added to Unesco’s World Heritage list in 2016, the qanat is a testament to the ingenuity of the ancient Iranians.

View image of The qanat was an ingenious way to source water in the middle of the Iranian desert (Credit: Credit: Design Pics Inc/Alamy)

Going underground

Simply put, a qanat is an underground channel that carries fresh water from an elevated source in the mountains to an opening at a lower altitude for the purposes of irrigation – a perfect solution in a region with an abundance of mountains. Once a possible source of fresh water is identified, indicated by the presence of an alluvial fan (a triangle-shaped sedimentary deposit at the base of a mountain), a shaft like one of the ‘anthills’ I’d seen is bored underground until the water source is reached. While in some cases not much digging is required, other shafts can extend up to 300m below ground. Numerous other anthill-like shafts are then bored at regular intervals to extract soil as well as provide ventilation for the workers excavating the earth below. To make things even more difficult, the slope of the qanat must be precisely calculated: too steep an incline, and the water’s downward force will erode the qanat; too flat, and the water won’t flow.

The complex system was well worth the effort, however. These underground aqueducts have allowed Iranians for millennia to access and transport water in some of its most arid regions. One of the most impressive examples is in the Fars province of south-west Iran. Here, the city of Persepolis was built by the Achaemenid Persians (550-330BC) in a hot and dusty plain surrounded by the Zagros Mountains. The location was not exactly endowed with nature’s bounty. Yet, by way of the qanat, Persepolis became the epicentre of an empire that stretched from Greece to India, and was regarded by many as the most luxurious city in the world, famed for its opulent palaces and exquisite gardens. As such, it’s easy to see why the distinctly Iranian hue of blue – known as abi in Persian, literally meaning ‘water-like’ – is nothing short of ubiquitous throughout the country.

View image of Anthill-like shafts were bored into the earth to reach underground water sources (Credit: Credit: Hemis/Alamy)

The qanat system was so effective that it soon spread to other corners of the world, first through the ancient Persians’ conquests, and later by way of the Muslim Arabs, who adopted the system from the Persians and carried it with them as far as Andalusia, Sicily and North Africa. According to William B Hemsley in The Qanat: An Ancient Water Supply, so highly did the ancient Egyptians value the qanat system that the Persian emperor Darius the Great “was later honoured with the title of Pharaoh” in return for introducing it to them.

Play it cool

Not only does the qanat provide necessary drinking water, it also helps lower indoor temperatures. In Yazd in central Iran, where summers can be stiflingly hot, the qanat is as indispensable as it is ingenious. Used in combination with a badgir (an Iranian wind-catcher), the water in the qanat cools warm incoming air, which enters it through a shaft, before being released into a basement and expelled through the openings at the top of the badgir. In houses in Yazd, for instance, this ancient method of air conditioning is still widely used, and is an inseparable aspect of engineering and architecture.

Similarly, the qanat made it possible to store large quantities of ice year round in desert climates. Constructed in conical shapes made of an admixture of heat-resistant materials, and also making use of Iranian wind-catching technology, the yakhchal (literally ‘ice pit’) is an ancient Iranian form of refrigeration dating to around 400BC. In the winter months, water would be sourced from a qanat and left to freeze in the yakhchal’s basement enclosure before being cut into blocks and stored for year-round use. Air entering through the qanat shafts and cooled by the underground water would further assist in reducing temperatures.

View image of The qanat has allowed Iranians in the country’s most arid regions to access and transport water for thousands of years (Credit: Credit: Andrea Ricordi, Italy/Getty Images)

‘We must cultivate our garden’

But the qanats weren’t only for physical sustenance; they also served a spiritual purpose. Despite their harsh environs, through this feat in engineering the ancient Persians were able to construct the renowned, Unesco-listed Persian garden.

Heavenly to behold and enjoy – in stark contrast to the parched surroundings – these lush oases, often arranged in four sections as a chahar bagh (literally ‘four gardens’) ­– are replete with trees, flowers, fountains and waterways, all meticulously arranged in harmony and symmetry to reflect the Zoroastrian adoration of nature and the elements. It’s not surprising that descriptions of paradise in the Abrahamic faiths have their origins in the Persian garden, which the Persians called pari-daida (denoting a walled garden), from which the word ‘paradise’ derives.

The qanat is as indispensable as it is ingenious

According to Iranian Studies scholar Touraj Daryaee, the ancient Persian gardens “held every sort of plant and flower, irrigated by running water, a most precious commodity for the inhabitants of the plateau.” The Bagh-e Shazdeh (Prince’s Garden) near Kerman in central Iran is a dazzling example: seen from above, it beggars belief that such a wonderland of greenery and gushing springs could exist surrounded by nothing but parched earth and rugged mountains. But gardens – which are, by and large, open to the public – can be seen all around the country.

When in my native Tehran, I can often be caught sipping on traditional Iranian chai, savouring the picturesque scenery, oblivious to the hustle and bustle on the outside streets, at the Bagh-e Khoshnevisan (Calligraphers’ Garden), Bagh-e Muzeh (Museum Garden) and Bagh-e Ferdows (Paradise Garden), all of which are in the north of the city. I mainly visit to escape the stifling summertime smog, and to enjoy the sound of fountains and singing birds amid leafy plane trees, shrubbery and flowerbeds, all of which evoke the florid poetry of Hafez and Sa’di.

View image of Having access to water from the qanat allowed the ancient Achaemenid city of Persepolis to become the epicentre of the empire (Credit: Credit: Andrea Ricordi, Italy/Getty Images)

As with the qanat, the Persian garden not only continues to thrive in modern-day Iran – where it also informs much of carpet-making in terms of layout, design and themes – but also elsewhere around the world. The impact of the chahar bagh philosophy can be seen as far away as Versailles in France, the gardens and courtyards of the Alhambra and the palaces of Marrakech, having been imported by the Arabs in the case of the latter two.

However, the best examples outside Iran perhaps belong to Mughal-era India and Pakistan. Just as the Mughals considered Persian the apex of refinement when it came to language, so too did they the Persian garden where horticulture and landscape architecture were concerned. Using the chahar bagh as a template, the gardens of the Taj Mahal and Humayun’s Tomb, for example, were naturally called chahar baghs by the Mughals, and still are today.

A steady flow

Although technological innovations have reduced the reliance of Iranians on the qanat, the aqueducts are still prominent and widespread throughout the country. With tens of thousands of qanats in Iran today boasting a total distance comparable to that between the Earth and the moon, the ingenuity of the ancient Persians has more than stood the test of time. In accordance with the ancient Iranian/Zoroastrian reverence for nature and the elements, it is incomparable as a sustainable and environmentally friendly method of not only fresh water extraction, but air conditioning and refrigeration. As well, in rural contexts, it allows for the equitable distribution of water, and through the necessity of its ongoing maintenance brings about social collaboration.

View image of The qanat made it possible for the ancient Iranians to cultivate lush gardens (Credit: Credit: tunart/Getty Images)

Despite Cyrus the Great’s world renown as a wise, just and compassionate leader, one can’t help but wonder what the empire he founded – the basis of modern-day Iran, barring politics – would have been without the aid of the qanat. What would the Persian army and people have done without access to fresh water? What would Persepolis – and the innumerable cities in the vast dominion of the Empire – have looked like, devoid of the pleasure gardens that forever changed the face of horticulture and landscape architecture?

The ingenuity of the ancient Persians has more than stood the test of time

For a people who, according to scholar of religion Bruce Lincoln, “… meant to conquer the entire known world in the name of establishing Paradise on Earth”, as Daryaee reports him to have posited, doing so from Iran’s often ruthless climate without the wonder of engineering that is the qanat might have been little more than a pipe dream.

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Marvellous architecture ~ Esfahan, Iran. Photo by @thepathlesswandered http://ift.tt/2BwOBAi

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A Walking Tour of Esfahan in Half a Day

https://kalouttour.com/?p=27733 Isfahan is certainly one of the most-liked destinations inside Iran among foreign travelers. A walking tour of Esfahan in half a day will surely make you familiar with the ambience of traditional Iran and some of the most awesome monuments of this beautiful city. This is going to be a visit in and around Imam Khomeini Square formerly known as Naqsh-e-Jahan (image of the world) with several tourist attractions. If your purpose of traveling in Iran is to learn about the highlights of the Islamic architecture together with bazaar, Handicrafts, garden planning as well as people, this walking tour of Esfahan is for you. It will take half a day, but will impress you with the varieties and utmost examples of Islamic architecture in Iran.  

Begin Walking Tour of Esfahan with Chehel Soltun Palace

  This royal building is located outside the mentioned square, but in a short distance from it. Make sure you begin with it first in the morning. When you enter the garden in which this palace is located, you will see the front of the building opposite the entrance. Chehel Sotun means forty columns and it refers to the number of columns in the portico of this structure in addition to their corresponding reflections in the water of the large pool in front of it. Such reflection can only be seen in the morning as the building looks at the East. Besides, forty is the number of abundance in Iranian culture. Chehel Sotun in situated within a Persian garden with tall trees, beautifully kept lawn and flowers and surrounded by fences, previously walls. Around the middle of the 17th century, Shah Abba II ordered this administration structure to be constructed so that he could use it as his office to meet with people and address his audience indoors as well as outdoors whenever required. Probably the most outstanding decoration you will see at this palace will be the six huge mural paintings inside showing how Safavid kings protected their power and received other kings and governors. At the lower parts of the walls, there can be watched a series of Iranian miniature paintings depicting mostly courtiers, kings and nobles having a drinking party inside Persian gardens. On the exterior sides of the palace and close to the back of it, you will see clear influence of European arts of 17 and 18 centuries practiced by Iranian Artists of that era.

Proceed to Isfahan’s Imam Komeini Square

There’s only a small park distance between the palace and Imam Khomeini Square. You cross this green area in less than 10 minutes and find yourself in an overwhelming large square that has accommodated hundreds of stores among three major monuments from 17th century. Shah Abbas I, who moved Safavids’ capital city from Qazvin to Esfahan, started this royal project at a virgin ground where no other structures were in place. This 160 by 500 meters open space was the showcase of the king’s flourishing economy and dedication to Shiite Islam. The three main monuments around the square are Jame Abbasy Mosque (today known as Imam Khomeini Mosque), Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque and Aliqapoo Palace. It took various time periods for them to be completed, but all of them started to be constructed more or less around the beginning of 17th century. Today, UNESCO recognizes this square as World Heritage Site and the absolute majority of international travelers love to visit it time and again. It’s beautiful in the morning, but many also love it in the evening with illumination around the monument as well as shops’ window lights.  

Make a Visit to Imam Mosque First

As both mosques are used as monuments and active worshiping places, you are recommended to visit them first and go to the palace later. Imam Khomeini Mosque is located at the Southern part of the square. Although Esfahan had its Friday mosque prior to the construction of Jame Abbasy, Shah Abbas decided to build his royal temple here. The beauty of this mosque is breathtaking and you will see the ultimate expertise of Iranian architects at the time of creating this mosque. Plenty of lapis lazuli and turquoise tiles as well as exquisite inscriptions done by Reza Abbasy, the well-known artist of Safavid era are some of the unique characteristics of this monument. The spacious courtyard with four eyvans leading to roofed areas of the mosque are marvelously decorated inviting visitors to enter and enjoy the serenity of the temple. This mosque has got four minarets and two symmetrically SE and SW of the courtyard used as madrassa. Another section at NE was used for treating the corpse of Muslims before transferring to graveyard.  

Next Is Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque

  This mosque is named after the father-in-law of Shah Abbas I. The fact that it doesn’t have any minarets and doesn’t provide a large space for worshipers approves the reality that it was built to be used by the royal family members. They could spend their time on contemplation and worshiping God in a quiet place without any disruption. The buff color of its dome as well as beautiful inscriptions worked out by mosaic work and exclusive motifs and decoration style of the interior have all contributed to the uniqueness of this mosque. You should remember to complete the visit to this building before the noon prayer as it will be closed to visitors and only worshipers can get in at that time.

The Last Monument to Visit Is Aliqapoo Palace

    Shah Abbas I had included his residence and office to this square at the Western side. The tallest building of the square with a portico overlooking the square is Aliqapoo palace. This massive building has been standing for approximately 400 years without a steel structure. Of course, in recent decades efforts have been made to reinforce it to make sure it will stand the passage of time and weight of its upper floors. On the sixth floor of this palace, there are some connected private rooms for the royal family who could enjoy the music played live for them. Therefore, the decoration is very unique making sure no echo could create distortion for the audience listening to musicians. At the portico of this palace, you will have best view of the entire Imam Square and the other monuments as well as the Mount Soffeh at the South of Esfahan.

Lunch Time Is Now

By this time, you have covered the magnificent Chehel Sotun palace and the main sites of the square. It’s time to dine and you can choose either one of the restaurants inside the square or take other choices outside the square. Most of the shops will close down in the middle of the day and it will not be very useful to spend your time there during siesta time. Thus, you may prefer to take some rest or get involved in other activities. Later in the day, you can come back to the square and explore its workshops, handicraft stores and so on. Such half-day walking tour of Imam Square in Isfahan is unbelievably rich experience that will impress you for the rest of your life.

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Dating back around 3,000 years, the qanat is an ingenious and sustainable solution to Iran’s dearth of easily accessible water.

By Joobin Bekhrad

20 June 2018

What on Earth are those? I thought to myself shortly before landing in the Iranian city of Esfahan one summer. From the aeroplane window, I could see what looked like a cross between freakishly large anthills and obscure symbols left by an extraterrestrial race. Little could I – then only a teenager – have guessed what lay beneath their mysterious surfaces.

The ancient Iranians had a huge task not only to survive, but also to conquer almost all their then-known world

If, throughout the ages, there’s one element my people have revered more than fire – known as the ‘Son of God’ in the ancient Iranian faith of Zoroastrianism – it’s undoubtedly water. The Iran in which various Aryan tribes settled millennia ago was a rich, vast and variegated expanse of land, as it is today. It also, however, happened to be incredibly dry. The ancient Iranians had a huge task not only to survive, but also to conquer almost all their then-known world.

To find pure water in an arid and unforgiving landscape, and create lush vistas in (literally) the middle of nowhere, might have seemed an impossible undertaking. However, they found an effective and sustainable solution to Iran’s dearth of easily accessible water in the marvel of ancient Iranian engineering known as the kariz, more popularly known by its Arabic name, the qanat. Dating back some 3,000-odd years, and added to Unesco’s World Heritage list in 2016, the qanat is a testament to the ingenuity of the ancient Iranians.

View image of The qanat was an ingenious way to source water in the middle of the Iranian desert (Credit: Credit: Design Pics Inc/Alamy)

Going underground

Simply put, a qanat is an underground channel that carries fresh water from an elevated source in the mountains to an opening at a lower altitude for the purposes of irrigation – a perfect solution in a region with an abundance of mountains. Once a possible source of fresh water is identified, indicated by the presence of an alluvial fan (a triangle-shaped sedimentary deposit at the base of a mountain), a shaft like one of the ‘anthills’ I’d seen is bored underground until the water source is reached. While in some cases not much digging is required, other shafts can extend up to 300m below ground. Numerous other anthill-like shafts are then bored at regular intervals to extract soil as well as provide ventilation for the workers excavating the earth below. To make things even more difficult, the slope of the qanat must be precisely calculated: too steep an incline, and the water’s downward force will erode the qanat; too flat, and the water won’t flow.

The complex system was well worth the effort, however. These underground aqueducts have allowed Iranians for millennia to access and transport water in some of its most arid regions. One of the most impressive examples is in the Fars province of south-west Iran. Here, the city of Persepolis was built by the Achaemenid Persians (550-330BC) in a hot and dusty plain surrounded by the Zagros Mountains. The location was not exactly endowed with nature’s bounty. Yet, by way of the qanat, Persepolis became the epicentre of an empire that stretched from Greece to India, and was regarded by many as the most luxurious city in the world, famed for its opulent palaces and exquisite gardens. As such, it’s easy to see why the distinctly Iranian hue of blue – known as abi in Persian, literally meaning ‘water-like’ – is nothing short of ubiquitous throughout the country.

View image of Anthill-like shafts were bored into the earth to reach underground water sources (Credit: Credit: Hemis/Alamy)

The qanat system was so effective that it soon spread to other corners of the world, first through the ancient Persians’ conquests, and later by way of the Muslim Arabs, who adopted the system from the Persians and carried it with them as far as Andalusia, Sicily and North Africa. According to William B Hemsley in The Qanat: An Ancient Water Supply, so highly did the ancient Egyptians value the qanat system that the Persian emperor Darius the Great “was later honoured with the title of Pharaoh” in return for introducing it to them.

Play it cool

Not only does the qanat provide necessary drinking water, it also helps lower indoor temperatures. In Yazd in central Iran, where summers can be stiflingly hot, the qanat is as indispensable as it is ingenious. Used in combination with a badgir (an Iranian wind-catcher), the water in the qanat cools warm incoming air, which enters it through a shaft, before being released into a basement and expelled through the openings at the top of the badgir. In houses in Yazd, for instance, this ancient method of air conditioning is still widely used, and is an inseparable aspect of engineering and architecture.

Similarly, the qanat made it possible to store large quantities of ice year round in desert climates. Constructed in conical shapes made of an admixture of heat-resistant materials, and also making use of Iranian wind-catching technology, the yakhchal (literally ‘ice pit’) is an ancient Iranian form of refrigeration dating to around 400BC. In the winter months, water would be sourced from a qanat and left to freeze in the yakhchal’s basement enclosure before being cut into blocks and stored for year-round use. Air entering through the qanat shafts and cooled by the underground water would further assist in reducing temperatures.

View image of The qanat has allowed Iranians in the country’s most arid regions to access and transport water for thousands of years (Credit: Credit: Andrea Ricordi, Italy/Getty Images)

‘We must cultivate our garden’

But the qanats weren’t only for physical sustenance; they also served a spiritual purpose. Despite their harsh environs, through this feat in engineering the ancient Persians were able to construct the renowned, Unesco-listed Persian garden.

Heavenly to behold and enjoy – in stark contrast to the parched surroundings – these lush oases, often arranged in four sections as a chahar bagh (literally ‘four gardens’) ­– are replete with trees, flowers, fountains and waterways, all meticulously arranged in harmony and symmetry to reflect the Zoroastrian adoration of nature and the elements. It’s not surprising that descriptions of paradise in the Abrahamic faiths have their origins in the Persian garden, which the Persians called pari-daida (denoting a walled garden), from which the word ‘paradise’ derives.

The qanat is as indispensable as it is ingenious

According to Iranian Studies scholar Touraj Daryaee, the ancient Persian gardens “held every sort of plant and flower, irrigated by running water, a most precious commodity for the inhabitants of the plateau.” The Bagh-e Shazdeh (Prince’s Garden) near Kerman in central Iran is a dazzling example: seen from above, it beggars belief that such a wonderland of greenery and gushing springs could exist surrounded by nothing but parched earth and rugged mountains. But gardens – which are, by and large, open to the public – can be seen all around the country.

When in my native Tehran, I can often be caught sipping on traditional Iranian chai, savouring the picturesque scenery, oblivious to the hustle and bustle on the outside streets, at the Bagh-e Khoshnevisan (Calligraphers’ Garden), Bagh-e Muzeh (Museum Garden) and Bagh-e Ferdows (Paradise Garden), all of which are in the north of the city. I mainly visit to escape the stifling summertime smog, and to enjoy the sound of fountains and singing birds amid leafy plane trees, shrubbery and flowerbeds, all of which evoke the florid poetry of Hafez and Sa’di.

View image of Having access to water from the qanat allowed the ancient Achaemenid city of Persepolis to become the epicentre of the empire (Credit: Credit: Andrea Ricordi, Italy/Getty Images)

As with the qanat, the Persian garden not only continues to thrive in modern-day Iran – where it also informs much of carpet-making in terms of layout, design and themes – but also elsewhere around the world. The impact of the chahar bagh philosophy can be seen as far away as Versailles in France, the gardens and courtyards of the Alhambra and the palaces of Marrakech, having been imported by the Arabs in the case of the latter two.

However, the best examples outside Iran perhaps belong to Mughal-era India and Pakistan. Just as the Mughals considered Persia the apex of refinement when it came to language, so too did they the Persian garden where horticulture and landscape architecture were concerned. Using the chahar bagh as a template, the gardens of the Taj Mahal and Humayun’s Tomb, for example, were naturally called chahar baghs by the Mughals, and still are today.

A steady flow

Although technological innovations have reduced the reliance of Iranians on the qanat, the aqueducts are still prominent and widespread throughout the country. With tens of thousands of qanats in Iran today boasting a total distance comparable to that between the Earth and the moon, the ingenuity of the ancient Persians has more than stood the test of time. In accordance with the ancient Iranian/Zoroastrian reverence for nature and the elements, it is incomparable as a sustainable and environmentally friendly method of not only fresh water extraction, but air conditioning and refrigeration. As well, in rural contexts, it allows for the equitable distribution of water, and through the necessity of its ongoing maintenance brings about social collaboration.

View image of The qanat made it possible for the ancient Iranians to cultivate lush gardens (Credit: Credit: tunart/Getty Images)

Despite Cyrus the Great’s world renown as a wise, just and compassionate leader, one can’t help but wonder what the empire he founded – the basis of modern-day Iran, barring politics – would have been without the aid of the qanat. What would the Persian army and people have done without access to fresh water? What would Persepolis – and the innumerable cities in the vast dominion of the Empire – have looked like, devoid of the pleasure gardens that forever changed the face of horticulture and landscape architecture?

The ingenuity of the ancient Persians has more than stood the test of time

For a people who, according to scholar of religion Bruce Lincoln, “… meant to conquer the entire known world in the name of establishing Paradise on Earth”, as Daryaee reports him to have posited, doing so from Iran’s often ruthless climate without the wonder of engineering that is the qanat might have been little more than a pipe dream.

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