#Margaret Howell-inspired

[onegirlatelier]

July, 2024 | Simple Pink Day Dress

Hey there! It’s been a long time. I have been spending the majority of the spring on academic work, but I did finish a few items and will be making more fibre things over the summer. Today I will be writing about this simple pink dress with just enough details for a clean and high-quality finish.

I should clarify that the design is based on an old Margaret Howell dress—so it is not my own. The original dress was in linen and came in two colours (mid-blue and black), and it looked fabulous on the runway. I wish I could find it, or afford it, or had the body to feel comfortable in it…But I thought it would also be nice to make my own.

The dress has no waist seam, and the waist shaping relies entirely on the belt. It has a simple V neck in the front and a deeper faux wrapped neckline in the back. The maximum waist measurement is fixed. The front and back necklines are stabilised with bindings cut on straight grain. The armscyes have bias binding. There is an opening on the right side seam to allow the belt to draw through. You may add a button to further close the back neckline if the shoulders tend to slip off (it works for some people; for me it doesn’t.)

Pattern

The pattern is easy to draft. We start with a basic bodice block that fits exactly.

Draft the pattern on a folded half of the front:

Rotate all darts towards the waist. Leave the darts ‘open’ i.e. do not add sewing lines here as they will be gathered when you wear a belt.

Add 1cm to the underarm width, i.e. in total 4cm added to the underarm circumference.

Add 5cm to the waist, i.e. in total 20cm added to the waist circumference.

(Adjust Steps 2 and 3 based on your desired positive eases.)

4. Draw the neckline on the front.

5. You might want to adjust the armscye—for many people, fitted bodices with and without sleeves require different armscye shapes. This includes raising/lowering the underarm point and increasing/decreasing the shoulder width.

(By now we have the bodice part of c.)

For the back:

6. Draw the ‘wrapped’ neckline, taking into consideration the width of the belt. Depending on your body shape, you can just ignore the tiny shoulder dart on the basic bodice pattern, or take it into account when you sew the binding.

7. Leave the waist dart ‘open’ and adjust the underarm and waist as in the front. This doesn’t have to be exactly the same as the front, but note that the neckline gap will become harder to control as the width of the bodice increases.

Skirt:

8. Extend the bodice to make the skirt. It is a little tricky for a dress without a waist seam, because the front bodice is often wider than the back to accommodate the chest, whereas the back of the bottom is usually wider than the front for the hips. This can be compensated to some extent by adding waist darts or making the back skirt expand wider than the front (i.e. closer to a quarter circle than a rectangle), but note that neither the back nor the front skirt can be too wide as the waves would not hang in a correct distribution.

9. The lengths of the front and back skirts also depends on your chest and hips.

10. The skirt in the back is divided into two asymmetric panels – see the illustrations.

Belt:

11. The belt is two ribbons of 4*140cm, so cut two rectangles of 10*142cm, with 1cm of allowance.

Fabric

Choose a drapey fabric if making a longer skirt. Soft silk, cotton and viscose would work well. Linen tends to be crisper so I would suggest reducing both the width and length of the skirt if using pure linen. Alternatively, you can reduce the width of the skirt but keep the length by adding a slit.

I cut my patterns along the cross grain, because for some reason this fabric is much stabler on the weft than on the warp. Proof that you don’t always cut along the straight grain!

Making the dress

(All seams unspecified are French seams.)

Finish shoulder seams.

2. Add binding to the front and back necklines. I controlled the neckline gapping by easing the main fabric into a straight-grain ribbon binding. I eased 1cm on each side of the front and 1.5cm on each side of the back.

(Above: the front, seen from the outside.)

（Above: the back, seen from the outside.)

3. Finish the side without the opening. For me, this was the left side.

4. Finish the side with the opening. First, check that the opening is at the correct height. Then just treat it as a skirt side slit from both ends. Add a ‘stopper��� to stabilise the opening.

(Left: the opening seen from the outside. Right: the opening seen from the inside.)

5. Finish the armscyes with narrow bias binding.

6. For the belt, finish the ribbon that goes on the ‘upper’ side. Sandwich it at the waist line between the two back panels and finish the back seam (a French seam). I closed both short ends of this ribbon before attaching it to the body, but, in hindsight, the end that goes in the body doesn’t have to finished.

(Above: where you attach the ribbon, seen from the outside.)

7. Sew the ribbon of the other side, leaving the width of the overlapping part of the bodice open. Finish one short end. Turn it to the right side.

8. Attach the unsewn width of the belt to the bodice piece that goes under. Finish the raw edge of the short edge. If you have left the short end of the other belt open, you will be able to see it here and should encase it as you attach the ‘under’ ribbon.

(Above: ribbon attached to the 'under' half of the bodice and then sewn onto one short end of the other ribbon, seen from the inside.)

9. Check the length and finish the hem. I did a simple twice-folded hem and steam-pressed after each fold, before sewing it down with whip stitches.

There you go😊 This post consists mainly of brief notes; however, if you would like some further explanation, let me know and I’ll try my best!

[baroque-hashem]

"I am often inspired by the method by which something is made... Good design has to work. Clothes have to work for people just as a chair has to...”

—Margaret Howell

[infinitycutter]

i really like your posts about clothes and designers and fashion. i dont know much but i like learning things from you & think you have good taste. i wanted to ask you about buying from mercari japan. im in the USA and i use that version of mercari all the time but id love to shop mercari japan. however im intimidated by the language barrier and what shipping would entail. do you use a proxy shopping service? if so any recs? & do you have other tips in general for navigating / using mercari japan? i want to thank you very much if you choose to answer ^_^

hehe im happy you like my posts and aesthetic taste i just post what inspires + interests me ^_^

I’m also in the US, and I use a proxy! In fact, I literally just got my haul two days ago!! Most people go for buyee, but they’re overpriced so I go for Neokyo. I’ve used japanese shopping sites for almost a decade + I learned some japanese when I was like. an 11 year old weeaboo so I can easily navigate through these websites—BUT— what’s cool w/ neokyo and some other websites is that they p much have their own user interfaces in english, so having to go through the japanese websites isn’t really necessary(with some caveats). And worst comes to worst, you can use browser extensions /apps that directly translate the website for you, so everything is easier to navigate. im not sponsored by neokyo btw, but compared to other sites like japonica or buyee, they have the lowest rates, and often have promotions that take off the service fee in the first place. Most sites are pretty self explanatory and will have tutorials in case you get stuck.

ok so here’s some tips for shopping on japanese websites that im just gonna put just in case someone else asks me in the future so i can redirect them to this post lol

1) KNOW WHAT YOU WANT.

It will make your life INCREDIBLY helpful if you are looking for a specific brand or designer, as well as the article of clothing you want in the first place. Having this specificity in mind can help you buy less in general too, and will help you get something that you’ll really want and keep. That aside, each website will have different filters to sort through stuff and one of them will be brand name, so that can help you parse through junk posts of people posting old zara when you’re looking for old Helmut Lang.

2) DO YOUR RESEARCH.

If you are looking for a specific style in mind, such as mori kei, karasu zoku, jirai kei, etc. there will be specific brands that cater(ed) for that style alone. most of the time, the information will be available on google. for designers, doing some digging on their different sublabels and aliases will be really helpful for digging for hidden gems. for example, one of my favorite brands, Undercover, has multiple sublabels, diffusion lines, names, etc. that you can search it under, such as: JONIO, ZAMIANG, AFFA, etc. Sometimes, you’ll get people knowledgeable about the brand and will put the brand filter on the item, but sometimes, people will pick up an item and will not know anything about the garment’s source or designer. Having that precursory knowledge lets you take advantage of people selling insanely rare items for insanely cheap prices because they’re clueless about it lol.

3) IF YOU DON’T KNOW WHAT YOU’RE LOOKING FOR, BE LESS SPECIFIC.

The point that I made from earlier that certain brands will kind of spearhead a certain genre of clothing is very helpful if you’re looking for other brands/designers/clothes that go for the same aesthetic. For example, the brand Trove has become synonymous with the Mori Boy style, and many people use that for search visibility. It’s annoying for me when I was specifically looking to buy trove, but it helped me learn about some other designers like nonnative, yaeca, and margaret howell.

4) IGNORE SIZE LABELS, USE GARMENT MEASUREMENTS*.

As none of us truly have the luxury of trying things online, knowing correct fit is hard. So save yourself the hassle and disappointment by literally just taking measurement of your body + clothes that you like, to get a gauge of whether or not the thing would fit you. Most sellers are kind enough to provide measurements, but sometimes, they don’t. This is where research and experience comes into play. For example, Takahiromiyashita theSoloist’s pants always goes a size down, meaning that a size 30 trouser will most likely be a size 27/28. This knowledge will only come after getting a general sense of the brand itself, so having a bit of brand loyalty and knowledge can pay off.

5) GO FOR JAPANESE DESIGNERS.

A lot of these brands tank in value, especially as they become forgotten and the trends have moved past. It’s sad for them, but it’s great for me. My mori kei wardrobe only cost around $300 ish, with the most expensive one being a $150 Yohji Yamamoto pour Homme runway cardigan. But mostly it was cheap clothes on mercari that I was able to buy for less than $30 max.

6)KNOW THAT THIS ISN’T LIKE SHOPPING ON SHEIN/ZARA/SSENSE/ETC. AND THIS WILL TAKE TIME.

Unlike regular websites where you can literally buy what you want at any time, it takes can take weeks, months, or even years to scope out what you want to buy. However, being more fluent in browsing thru these websites can help you score insane deals for things you’d see marked high in the west. I regularly buy rare undercover for insanely low prices, just because I toil in the mercari japan mines frequently.

7)THE MORE YOU BUY, THE BETTER IT GETS.

Your rates for shipping will get better the heavier your parcel is. Meaning that it’s better for you to buy more in one time, rather than buying only one garment. Yes, this spurs even more consumerism, but whatever lol

8) Saddest one of all, this entire thing will be easier the skinnier you are.

This isn’t fatphobia; it’s the fact that most of the clothes you’ll wanna buy are in Asian sizing, meaning that most of it will be incredibly small. Even I, as a US Men’s Small, can barely fit into a lot of Japanese clothes due to my big ass shoulders. Luckily, there are some ways to circumvent it, including going to styles/brands that incorporate a lot of oversized stuff, like Doublet, Yohji, or Balmung. Recently, some brands also offer plus size options available, but it requires you to buy new.

Okay it took longer than expected, but I hope this is helpful for the anon and anyone else who reads it! :D

[abm1g-5]

Why Women Grow: Stories of Soil, Sisterhood, and Survival" by Alice Vincent has had a significant impact on 21st-century women. This book explores the relationship between women and the earth, highlighting the importance of gardening and nurturing the land. It delves into the stories of inspiring women who have turned to the soil as gardeners, growers, and custodians.

The book sheds light on the histories and experiences of women in connection with the land, offering a unique perspective on the bond between humans and their surroundings. It emphasizes the role of gardening as a tool for challenging societal structures and nurturing grassroots movements.

Through her work, Alice Vincent has created a platform for women's voices and experiences in the realm of gardening and horticulture. The "Why Women Grow" podcast, which accompanied the book, featured interviews with notable guests such as Margaret Howell, Sarah Raven, Rukmini Iyer, and Poppy Okotcha, further amplifying the stories and insights of women in this field. Why Women Grow shows the beauty and grit of tending the soil in difficult times. Alice Vincent shows us that the cure for uncertainty is to get mud under our nails”

Written by; Djalmairene Ecleo

[establishedanddaughters]

[amphtaminedreams]

S/S 2020 Fashion Month: A Basic, Uneducated Fashion Heaux’s A-Z of Everything Noteworthy (Part 2/3)

Hi to anyone reading,

Back at it again with the giving my unsolicited opinion on 2020′s spring/summer offering, I’m gonna hop straight into part 2 of my fashion month review!

Sorry to start with an underwhelming few but my compulsive tendencies are making it really hard to break out of this alphabetical structure (cry laughs whilst thinking about how long it took me to face up at my retail job last night because it would give me vaguely homicidal urges and make my fingers tingle every time a customer moved something slightly out of line), so I’m gonna whizz through a handful of collections. First up, Halpern:

Not much to say but I’m envious of the heavy liner (my hooded eyes could never) and I like the colour scheme. As for the 80s style metallic pink dress?

Helmut Lang:

And Hermes:

Of these 3 collections, Hermes is definitely the most interesting. I like the colour scheme and the utilitarian shapes and the tan coloured jackets are an absolute shoot. This is how you make safari look fresh, D&G take note.

Isabel Marant was okay. It’s cute, sure, reminds me of something Mary-Kate and Ashley would’ve come out with/worn in the 2000s, and there’s definitely some things I would wear, but I wouldn’t say it looks all that luxury. Pricey, sure, but like, Free People pricey, not designer pricey. As a collection, it’s not all that conceptual, unless the concept is L.A girl does a Starbucks run after her bikram yoga class. What I will say though is that some of the S/S 2020 commercial trends are becoming clear: white cheesecloth pieces, peasant blouses, cowboy boots, scrappy sandals, neutral tones, and bandana print. 

Now onto the darling of high fashion Twitter: Jacquemus.

As far as presentation goes, this has to be one of my favourite set-ups of the season; a hot pink runway running through a lavender meadow is as canny and serene as those who sing the praises of Simon Porte Jacquemus would have you expect, and the clothes were easy, breezy and beautiful, even if there is an element of getting dressed in the dark going on with the styling which put me off including a few otherwise gorgeous pieces. It might not be 100% my style but you can tell this is a brand of the future which is only going to go from strength to strength.

And everything was beautifully and purposefully crafted on the runway with J.W Anderson this year. The pieces are graceful and timeless whilst still easy to envision as something a modern woman would throw on to (very fashionably) run some errands in the city. This was also one of the handful of shows (IIRC! This might be a case of extreme deja-vu!) where we saw the sandal straps tied over the trousers, I’m guessing to accentuate the ankles, and...I’m surprisingly here for it? Though in a sense it kinda resembles when I accidentally get my work trousers tucked into my slipper socks, it’s an interesting touch and adds a bit of a shape to otherwise billowing bottom halves.

Following Jacquemus’ lead (or vice versa, I’m way too deep into this fashion month haze to work out who went first at this point), Lacoste also put on a co-ed show. Otherwise crisp and preppy as per, the neckerchiefs (even if seeing them all next to one another does give off a bit of a Disneyland Main Street barbershop quartet vibe) and vinyl/wet-look/PVC/I’m still not sure what differentiates the 3 coats were an out of the box touch for them and I really liked it. It’s athleisure, but more like something Hayley Bieber would’ve worn as part of her Princess Diana inspired shoot than anything I’d wear to the gym.

LMAO, as if I go the gym. But you get my point. Next, Loewe:

Delicate, feminine and all around delightful, the S/S 2020 Loewe collection is up there with Chloe and Brock when it comes to most spring appropriate. More chiffon, lace and doily-like detailing, please, the old woman in me lives for this kinda thing made fashionable. Like with J.W Anderson, you can tell the design team wanted to do something different without just throwing shit onto their pieces for the sake of being wacky, and so we end up with these dramatic, slightly geometric waistlines and almost angelic Victorian nightgown inspired dresses that kinda make me wished that 1). ghosts existed and that 2). I lived back in that era so I could die some tragic death wearing any one of the dresses on the left in the top 3 rows and then haunt the shit out of everyone. That would really be an iconic fashion moment. Also wonderful, imo, was Louis Vuitton:

The mix between 60s and Edwardian I never knew I needed, as opposed to Gucci’s forward thinking take on the former decade, Louis Vuitton takes it back even further and throws in late 19th/early 20th century structures and references. I adore the what seems to be a mix between brocade and paisley print and the exaggerated collars are a very cute touch. The jacket on the top left is a highlight, a more neutral version of the similar catsuit seen at the Longchamp show (I couldn’t personally pick enough highlights from that to include it), and I now more than ever really want to try and pull off a sweater vest. The shoes might not be the most exciting thing ever but they’re also a personal favourite, from the knee high boots to the loafers with the LV moniker.

Maison Margiela was very cool and again, I’m in love with the shoes and just the accessories in general, ESPECIALLY those hats. I don’t know if I’m way off base here but this show is almost a modernised, fashionable version of a 1940s period drama about WW2 pilots and evacuees. Yes, maybe I am just getting that solely from the trench coats and the naval influences and the exaggerated collars but I think with that list I made quite a case for that perspective, right? Right.

And completing this holy trinity (appropriating the term I usually reserve for Emma Watson, Emma Stone and Emma Roberts is not without careful consideration) is Marc Jacobs. One of my ultimate favourites of this season, this collection is absolutely EVERYTHING: kitschy, dream-like, whimsical, over-the-top, and totally appropriate for your slightly eccentric aunt who always drinks too much wine and talks a lot of shit every time she comes over for dinner. I really feel like I walked into wonderland looking at this collection, and in the best way possible, it gives me a female Russell Brand in the 2000s’ wardrobe on crack. On the one hand we have these insanely beautiful and ethereal chiffon floral dresses but then we also have fricken top hats. Basically, it’s everything I love about fashion and I don’t know if anything can top it. Periodt (and I type that with a totally straight face). 

Next, onto another personal fave, Marchesa:

Which is as always, beautiful. I was going to write that if Disney princesses came to life and lived in the modern world (so, in other words, Elle Fanning), they would be wearing Marchesa and then I remembered that the film Enchanted exists and had a lightbulb moment and thought OH MY GOD IF THEY REMADE THAT IN 2019, THE DRESS ON THE RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE ROW WOULD BE A PERFECT LEVELLING UP OF THE CURTAIN DRESS.

Anyways, favourites of the favourites are the bottom row; I would die for that feather trim. 

BUT where Marchesa is everything opulent, overly ornate and err-ing on “fussy”, Margaret Howell’s S/S 2020 collection is completely stripped back and just as effective, if not as to my taste. Very cool, very current, and altogether effortless (in a good way!), with this show Margaret Howell made mid-20th century utilitarianism relevant. I never thought I’d be praising the combination of bermuda shorts, crew socks and a beanie and yet here I am. Character development.

Next is Marine Serre:

Which I really like! The bottom row isn’t really to my personal taste but I can acknowledge that if I saw somebody wearing any one of those outfits I’d think they looked sick, and as for the first two rows, those mesh tops and the slightly chintzy florals are right up my alley.

Marques Almeida put out a really strong collection, imo. The blending of luxurious silhouettes and fabrics with street wear inspired prints and styling is a really interesting and unique contrast and if Billie Eilish ever decided to stop wearing those tweenie clothes and wanted to actually seduce somebody’s dad (I LOVE BILLIE EILISH AND I KNOW WHY SHE DRESSES THE WAY SHE DOES, IT’S A JOKE, PLS DON’T HATE ME), I’d love to see her wearing something like this. It’s a blend of punk, urban, and 2019 e-girl and has the kind of edge that Topshop has lost over the past couple of years that used to make it so aspirational to my 13 year old self. Of all the shows, it also probably has the most personally wearable accessories, and a shit tonne of cool make up looks I’d love to try if it weren’t for my lack of visible eyelid, lol.

Make up looks were a highlight of the Max Mara show too, for me anyway.

I otherwise wasn’t hugely keen on the collection, it being a little too matronly/Miss.Trunchbull-esque for my liking (wild card fashion inspiration of 2019, apparently?). The light paisley print dresses are very dreamy, though, and I can never resist a good suit. 

As for Michael Kors, dare I say it, but the basic bitch in me loved it. I know as a designer he’s not held in very high regard by the fashion community and I'm not saying it’s at all original but it did what it set out to do well; I mean, it’s quite fitting that he cameo-d in an episode of Gossip Girl because every outfit would be perfect for the Constance attending incarnation of Blair Waldorf, which is probably why I like the collection. Like yeah, it’s a bit of a Polo Ralph Lauren/Lacoste rip off but it’s daintier and more feminine and so I’m not gonna lie, I’m on board with it. 

Next, Miu Miu.

One of the collections I was most excited for, I was a little disappointed. Don’t get me wrong, I really like the collection, but I have never once disliked anything Miu Miu and I usually love it. There are things I love about this line too: the cream, floral lace-up boots, the off-the-shoulder cardigans, the houndstooth oversized coats and of course the fur-lined gilets. My mum used to buy me similar ones when I was a little girl and so they give me childhood nostalgia in the best way possible. I mean, the collection is as girly and eccentric as ever. I think it’s just a little too on the primary school librarian side for me, this time round. Sorry Miu Miu xoxo

Now I’m just gonna speed through a couple, starting with MM6 Maison Margiela, the younger sister to the more expensive regular Maison Margiela line:

And Monique Lhuillier:

So that I can get to one of my other ultimate favourite collections for S/S 2020: Moschino.

Oh my god, where to even start. Firstly, I might be reaching, but if this show is even remotely to thank for art nouveau mesh tops showing up in the Urban Outfitters new in section, then a very sarcastic thank you to Jeremy Scott. You just made ethical shopping a lot harder. HOW am I supposed to not buy an Alphonse Mucha top? HOW!? I mean, I’m sure I’ll manage (I’m on month 3 without a shopping spree I can’t actually afford now and yes, I am very much patting myself on the back), but HOW!?

But on a serious level, if renaissance was the print of 2019, which I’m still very much into BTW, bring on modern art as its 2020 replacement. The Pablo Picasso inspired show not only livened up a generally pretty predictable fashion month but it’s also got me searching up other times art has met fashion on the runway and thrown me down a particularly aesthetically pleasing wormhole I’m not sure I ever want to escape from (https://frontrowmagazine.ca/art-inspired-looks-were-all-over-the-runways-of-fashion-week-a74e8bc7ff0d and https://www.vogue.com/article/spring-2017-ready-to-wear-fine-arts-trends are good starting points!).

Mugler was also up there with the best of them, imo:

See, if the Moschino collection was all about dabbling in art class, Mugler’s S/S 2020 collection is its more mathematically inclined sister, all about sharp lines and deconstructed silhouettes and symmetry all whilst looking hot as fuck. So very Mugler, basically. 

Now, this reference might be slightly off because I haven’t actually SEEN Ex-Machina yet but I imagine if Kim Kardashian were to channel that movie for a costume party she’d end up wearing something from this collection. That sounds like a roast because Kim has worn some questionable outfits but I blame Kanye for most of that and I’m referring to her on a good fashion day, alright!?

As for Off-White, it’s obviously a lot more commercial than most of the lines I’ve reviewed so far. Like, I can see a lot of these outfits on a mannequin in Urban Outfitters (no, I am not being paid to namedrop them, about 3 people in total read this Tumblr so any kind of sponsorship money would be severely wasted on me). That’s not necessarily a bad thing, and I love all of these looks; it just seems unfair to compare them to the the Mugler or Moschino collections, for example. 

The stand outs for me are all on the bottom row: I would buy the utility vest, leather blazer and the all mesh turtleneck under washed-out tie-dye on the spot if I saw them in a high street store. Unfortunately, I feel like that’s kinda where they belong. You just expect collections to be a bit more conceptual, and this one is a little watered down, as much as it’s my style.

Oscar de la Renta was beautiful, of course. Not like I’m shook by how beautiful it is but kinda just what you’d expect from a brand with a name as poetic and fun to say as Oscar de la Renta. The silhouettes are dreamy and the details are as fit for a fairy princess (lmao) as ever. Plus can I just say how happy I am to see butterflies on dresses for adult women again!? And dresses worn by Blanca Padilla nonetheless!? Very here for it.

Next up is another on one of my fashion month highlights: Paco Rabanne.

LOOK AT THIS SHIT!

I mean, don’t get me wrong, something about this collection (I’m pretty sure it’s the knee high coloured socks) is giving me primary school teacher vibes, but I'm not mad about it. It’d be the kind of teacher who’s actually really good at their job and has loads of cool hobbies and a really hot boyfriend or girlfriend or wife or husband who you secretly want to be then you grow up/and or have a huge crush on. 

Like with Marc Jacobs, there’s obvious flower child elements here, and whilst on the whole the former took my breath away slightly more, this is a lot more wearable. My favourites are the paisley print dress and cape on the left in the very bottom row and all the chainmail pieces (which remind me of the dress Naomi Smalls wore in that whole club ninety-sixxxxx skit on drag race), plus that floral cut out dress with the trailing flute sleeves, which is absolute PERFECTION. 

The 70s influence was clear in Peter Pilotto’s S/S 2020 collection too from the abundance of tie-dye to the knit v-neck dress, zany colour and print being the very on-brand focus. That being said, this is definitely more of a street-style inspired collection than usual and whilst the floral suits and dresses on the 3rd row down are very typical Peter Pilotto, the tie-dye corset and combat trousers on the far right, second row from the bottom, are very Jaded London. As for the reoccurrence of the bucket hat, I’ve remained steadfastly against them for several years now (even when our Lord and Saviour Miss Robyn Rihanna Fenty started wearing them) but the way they’re done in this collection even I could definitely get behind; all in all, the show surpassed my expectations.

The same goes for Ports 1961, which was a lot more eccentric than I gathered is the norm from a few google searches. Honestly, I hadn’t really heard of the brand which, upon reading up on it, I feel very dumb for considering it has been around since (in the shock twist of the century) 1961.

Yes, I know how that sounds! But forgive me, I’m still learning:)

Anyway, the fishnet detailing alone pretty much sold the looks I picked out. Seriously, I got a pair of those bloody tights, like, 2 years ago when they became a thing again and now any outfit where I have my legs out feels incomplete without them. 

Next is Prabal Gurung, which, as far as presentation goes, was fucking STUNNING:

I mean, you could say that I’m easily impressed and that the presence of the bouquets won me over (and you’d definitely have a point there), but it’s also this year’s Givenchy haute couture-esque feathers, the trailing pearl necklaces, the exaggerated shoulders, the dreamy colouring, the everything looking like it could’ve grown off a very fashionably-inclined tree. Like, there’s a lot to love here, from the naturalistic elements, to the context behind the show, an ode to American fashion history and those cast out of it (and the notion of “being American” in general) for so long. 

Going from a high to a (personal) low, however, next we have Prada:

I don’t know, I get that it’s supposed to be simple and stripped back and dignified and whatever and I like the looks I picked but it’s just a bit blah for me. The bonnets that kept cropping up just didn’t do it for me and almost ruined what is an otherwise nice skirt suit (top right). Nonetheless, I like the silhouette of the sheer black dress and the the brocade print suit is really luxurious looking, even if the pattern is a *little* Wetherspoons carpet. 

Anyways, here’s a quick overview of Rag and Bone:

So that I can stop moaning and get onto a collection I REALLY liked: 

I am of course talking about Ralph and Russo. See, this is kinda what I expected from, like, Chanel and yet it’s Ralph and Russo that delivered. Also, it gives me Alessandra Rich vibes which is very much a compliment considering how much I love her designs. I mean, if Valley of the Dolls were to get another film remake in 2019, this is exactly what I’d like to see the female leads wearing, from the pastel suits to the satin kaftan style dresses. The yellow feather trimmed dress is practically a copy of something Marchesa has already done but it’s cute all the same. In my top 10 collections of the season, for sure.

Rick Owens was another strong collection; it goes without saying that it’s not the most wearable but that’s not really what Rick Owens is known for, so I wouldn’t expect anything else. If you want fashion on an alien planet, or something Lady Gaga would’ve worn in 2010, he's your man.

Next, Rodarte:

Obviously the dresses are beautiful and the set is magnificent, BUT...I’m really not a fan of the whole celebrities filling in for high fashion models thing. I like Lili Reinhart and I adore Kirsten Dunst, she’s been in a load of my favourite films, but in a similar vein to Dolce and Gabbana’s influencer show, it’s just distracting from the actual garments, if even worse because I don’t WANT to be distracted here (the same can’t be said for the D&G show, lol).  If anybody has read this far, let me know your thoughts! 

Roland Mouret was nice, and I always like a coed show, especially when a designer isn���t afraid to blur the lines of masculine and feminine. It’s fresh, lightweight and luxurious looking, Cannes film festival street style eat your heart out, and I love the colour palette.

Similarly, colour was my favourite thing about Sally LaPointe’s S/S 2020 collection. 

I would never think that teal and burnt orange would work together, let alone in some kind of faux leather, and yet here we are. Orange is in itself always an interesting colour choice, perfect for the summer with a tan, and I really love monochrome outfits, even though they’re something that ends up being quite pricey to put together; slight differences in tone are okay but if you just randomly throw together a few things and they’re too off, it really doesn’t work and you’d have been better off wearing contrasting colours. For that reason, I’m just gonna admire that all-pink outfit from a distance. 

As for Schiaparelli, it’s one I always look forwards to for the sheer weirdness. RTW isn’t quite as kooky as haute couture but still, the interesting choices are still there; what at first glance appears to be flame print is actually coils of hair, and paired with a water print suit is a sequinned jacket emblazoned with a paradisiacal mirage. Ornament-like facial decorations as seen in the over-exaggerated glasses worn with the pony hair suit are also one of my favourite new things to happen in the high fashion scene in the past couple of months and I can’t wait to see how they get watered down to become more approachable for us...regular, non-structurally blessed folks who can’t pull off anything and everything.

Simone Rocha was STUNNING. Romantic and ethereal, it’s druid goddess crossed with upper class Victorian woman of leisure, equal parts delicate and grungy, like a modern, fashion version of Lady Gaga’s Scathach in the Roanoke season of American Horror Story. You know, in the flashbacks, not in present day when she was all gross and like...scalping people and shit. Each dress is so ornate and has such an interesting structure, and the fabric choices give off an organic kinda vibe that create a handmade feel; the collection is, imo, really worthy of being shown under a haute couture heading. When it comes to my favourite element of the show, I’m torn between the petticoats and the hair accessories. I’m just gonna give a cop-out answer and say both. 

Stella McCartney on the other hand, is very much a clear ready-to-wear collection. 

It’s pretty, for sure. The pastel blazers paired with delicate white mesh tops underneath are a gorgeous combination for spring and I like the reoccurrence of the chain glasses (Gucci, right?). But I mean, when you go from Simone Rocha to this, it’s a bit anticlimactic. Plus, if I’m honest, kaftans are always going to remind me of Honey Mahogany from season 5 of Drag Race. Don’t get me wrong, I’m sure she’s a lovely person but her runway looks aren’t really ones I look back fondly on, and you’re lying if you say you enjoyed them for anything other than meme purposes.

Temperley is equally meh, though the return of the Erdem-style boating hats is getting me excited that high street retailers might actually pick up on the trend and bring out some cheap ones for me to embarrass myself by wearing. 

I also love a good 70s suit, the neckerchiefs are cute and there are some really delightful prints here that are a more unique approach to florals for spring.

Coming towards the end now, next is Thom Browne:

I LOVE this. Like, don’t get me wrong Rick Owens was cool but I adore how on the nose the concept is here; time to bring back all the Marie Antoinette puns I didn’t get to use in my Versailles Instagram post. I don’t know if it’s the history buff in me or the Sofia Coppola Stan but I will always be willing to sign any kind of treaty for anything related to the excesses of the 18th century French monarchy, and this is that turned up to 1000 infused with a dash of the Teletubbies, which sounds like a nightmarish concept, I know, but as high fashion it WORKS.

Tory Burch was very commercial, seemingly half inspired by Monterey yoga moms and the other half by Hamptons socialites. 

And then there was Valentino, which was fucking exquisite, imo. LIKE, CALLING DOCLE & GABBANA: THIS IS HOW YOU MAKE TROPICAL PRINT INTERESTING. YOU MAKE THE VELVET MONKEY’S ARM THE FRICKEN WAISTBAND. 

Seriously, though, I am enamoured with this colour palette; all the whites and golds are angelic and fr, I didn’t know until now that you could make neons this elegant. I’m also getting an almost clerical feel from a lot of these looks, with the plaited waistband on the black dress that’s 7th row down in the middle, the stunning red cape and the multitude of exaggerated neck ruffs. I think I’ve mentioned before but I always love religious references in clothing-I don’t think I’ll ever get over the 2018 Met Gala-and so whether I’m reading too much into it or not, this collection really did it for me.

Whilst it’s probably as far removed a collection from Valentino’s S/S 2020 contribution you can get, I also loved Vera Wang this season. It might purely (I PROMISE THIS IS MY LAST GOSSIP GIRL REFERENCE) be because it gives me Jenny Humphrey vibes and *controversial* she did have my favourite style of any of the main characters, but sue me, this is just the right amount of late 90s/early 2000s grunge. Deconstructed trashy goth it girl is an interesting concept to see on the runway and I completely support it. 

Versace on the other hand was very hit or miss. The looks I picked out I really loved but ultimately, for one of the household name brands, a lot of the actual garments were a bit pedestrian. I will say though that for me, it’s a case of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts. The slicked back mermaid hair and the pops of colour in the makeup and the interesting necklines meant that when it was good, it was GOOD. However, overall, still a bit too 80s Miami businesswoman, and please GOD, can we leave that hideous J-Lo dress in the past, it should really not be the climax of the show in 20-fucking-19!

As for Victoria Beckham, I liked it, but it’s a bit of a Gucci copy, no? And no way near as interesting?

And on that note, I’m gonna have to cut this off. Super annoying but with only 5 collections left that I want to talk about, Tumblr is being a little bitch and will not let me add anything more to this post. So, see you in 5 for the final post!

Lauren x

[papapiusxiii]

50 Great Thrillers by Women, as recommended by 10 of the UK’s female crime writers

Sophie Hannah:

Summertime by Liz Rigbey. Follows a woman who loses her baby and whose father unexpectedly drowns. When her husband and sister close ranks against her, she begins to suspect they are lying to her.

The Spider’s House by Sarah Diamond. Also published as In the Spider’s House. When Anna Howell discovers that a 1960s child murderess was the previous resident of her old cottage, her marriage, sanity and life come under threat.

Hidden by Katy Gardner. When a young mother’s seven-year-old daughter disappears, she finds herself questioning everything in her life. Then a police officer starts asking about the murder of a woman 14 months earlier …

A Shred of Evidence by Jill McGown. DI Judy Hill and DCI Lloyd investigate the murder of a 15-year-old girl on a patch of open parkland in the centre of town.

Searching for Shona by Margaret Jean Anderson

The wealthy Marjorie Malcolm-Scott trades suitcases, destinations and identities with orphan Shona McInnes, as children are evacuated from Edinburgh at the start of the second world war.

Val McDermid:

The Franchise Affair by Josephine Tey. A teenage war orphan accuses two women of kidnap and abuse, but something about her story doesn’t add up.

Rubbernecker by Belinda Bauer. The Booker-longlisted author of Snap follows it up with the tale of a medical student with Asperger’s who attempts to solve a murder.

The Field of Blood by Denise Mina. The first in the Paddy Meehan series sees the reporter looking into the disappearance of a child from his Glasgow home, with evidence pointing the police towards two young boys.

A Fatal Inversion by Barbara Vine. Writing under her pen name, Ruth Rendell tells of the discovery of a woman and child in the animal cemetery at Wyvis Hall, 10 years after a group of young people spent the summer there.

When Will There Be Good News? by Kate Atkinson. In the third Jackson Brodie book, a man is released from prison 30 years after he butchered the mother and siblings of a six-year-old girl in the Devon countryside.

Ann Cleeves:

Little Deaths by Emma Flint. Inspired by the real case of Alice Crimmins, this tells of a woman whose two children go missing from her apartment in Queens.

The Dry by Jane Harper. During Australia’s worst drought in a century, three members of one family in a small country town are murdered, with the father believed to have killed his wife and son before committing suicide.

Devices and Desires by PD James. Adam Dalgliesh takes on a serial killer terrorising a remote Norfolk community.

The End of the Wasp Season by Denise Mina. Heavily pregnant DS Alex Morrow investigates the violent death of a wealthy woman in Glasgow.

Fire Sale by Sara Paretsky. The inimitable VI Warshawski takes over coaching duties of the girls’ basketball team at her former high school, and investigates the explosion of the flag manufacturing plant where one of the girl’s mothers works.

Sharon Bolton:

Gone by Mo Hayder. In Hayder’s fifth thriller featuring Bristol DI Jack Caffrey, he goes after a car-jacker who is taking vehicles with children in them.

Gentlemen and Players by Joanne Harris. A murderous revenge is being plotted against the boys’ grammar school in the north of England where eccentric Latin master Roy Straitley is contemplating retirement.

The Shining Girls by Lauren Beukes. A time-travelling, murderous war veteran steps through the decades to murder extraordinary women – his “shining girls” – in Chicago, in this high-concept thriller.

The Wicked Girls by Alex Marwood. Two women who were sentenced for murdering a six-year-old when they were children meet again as adults, when one discovers the body of a teenager.

Apple Tree Yard by Louise Doughty. Married scientist Yvonne, who is drawn into a passionate affair with a stranger, is on trial for murder.

Sarah Ward:

A Place of Execution by Val McDermid. Journalist Catherine Heathcote investigates the disappearance of a 13-year-old girl in the Peak District village of Scarsdale in 1963.

The Crossing Places by Elly Griffiths. Forensic archaeologist Dr Ruth Galloway investigates the discovery of a child’s bones near the site of a prehistoric henge on the north Norfolk salt marshes.

The Ice House by Minette Walters. A decade after Phoebe Maybury’s husband inexplicably vanished, a corpse is found and the police become determined to charge her with murder.

The Liar’s Girl by Catherine Ryan Howard. When a body is found in Dublin’s Grand Canal, police turn to the notorious Canal Killer for help. But the imprisoned murderer will only talk to the woman he was dating when he committed his crimes.

This Night’s Foul Work by Fred Vargas (translated by Sian Reynolds). Commissaire Adamsberg investigates whether there is a connection between the escape of a murderous 75-year-old nurse from prison, and the discovery of two men with their throats cut on the outskirts of Paris.

Elly Griffiths: 

R in the Month by Nancy Spain. Sadly out of print, this is an atmospheric story set in a down-at-heel hotel in a postwar seaside town. The period detail is perfect and jokes and murders abound. This is the fourth book featuring the fantastic Miriam Birdseye, actress and rather slapdash sleuth.

The Daughter of Time by Josephine Tey. A gripping crime novel in which the detective never gets out of bed and the murder happened over 500 years ago. Griffith says: “I read this book as a child and was hooked – on Tey, crime fiction and Richard the Third.���

The Detective’s Daughter by Lesley Thomson. Cleaner Stella Darnell finds herself tidying up her detective father’s final, unfinished case, after he dies. It is the first in a series featuring Stella and her sidekick Jack, an underground train driver who can sense murder.

A Place of Execution by Val McDermid. Griffiths says: “I could have chosen any of Val’s novels, but this book, about a journalist revisiting a shocking 1960s murder, is probably my favourite because of its wonderful sense of time and place. It’s also pitch perfect about journalism, police investigation and life in a small community.”

He Said, She Said by Erin Kelly. An account of a rape trial at which nothing is quite as it seems. Griffiths says: “The story centres around a lunar eclipse, which also works wonderfully as a metaphor and image.”

Dreda Say Mitchell: 

Sharp Objects by Gillian Flynn. The Gone Girl author’s debut follows journalist Camille’s investigation into the abduction and murder of two girls in her Missouri home town.

Dangerous Lady by Martina Cole. Cole’s first novel sees 17-year-old Maura Ryan taking on the men of London’s gangland.

The Mermaids Singing by Val McDermid. Clinical psychologist Dr Tony Hill is asked to profile a serial killer when four men are found mutilated and tortured.

Indemnity Only by Sara Paretsky. A client tells VI Warshawski he is a prominent banker looking for his son’s missing girlfriend. But VI soon discovers he’s lying, and that the real banker’s son is dead.

The St Cyr series by CS Harris. Mitchell has nominated the whole of this historical mystery series about Sebastian St Cyr, Viscount Devlin – master of disguises, heir to an earldom, and disillusioned army officer. It’s a bit of a cheat but we’ll let her have it.

Erin Kelly:

No Night Is Too Long by Barbara Vine. Tim Cornish thinks he has gotten away with killing his lover in Alaska. But then the letters start to arrive …

Broken Harbour by Tana French. The fourth in French’s sublime Dublin Murder Squad series, this takes place in a ghost estate outside Dublin, where a father and his two children have been found dead, with the mother on her way to intensive care.

Chosen by Lesley Glaister. When Dodie’s mother hangs herself, she has to leave her baby at home and go to bring her brother Jake back from the mysterious Soul Life Centre in New York.

A Savage Hunger by Claire McGowan. Forensic psychologist Paula Maguire investigates the disappearance of a girl, and a holy relic, from a remote religious shrine in the fictional Irish town of Ballyterrin.

The Cry by Helen Fitzgerald. Parents Joanna and Alistair start to turn against each other after their baby goes missing from a remote roadside in Australia.

Sarah Hilary:

The Hours Before Dawn by Celia Fremlin. A sleep-deprived young mother tries to stay sane while her fears grow about the family’s new lodger, in this 1950s lost classic.

Cruel Acts by Jane Casey. Leo Stone, sentenced to life in prison for the murder of two women, is now free and claims he is innocent. DS Maeve Kerrigan and DI Josh Derwen want to put him back in jail, but Maeve begins doubting his guilt – until another woman disappears.

Sex Crimes by Jenefer Shute. A lawyer’s New Year’s Eve pick-up spirals into an erotic obsession which leads to graphic cruelty.

Skin Deep by Liz Nugent. Nugent, whom Ian Rankin has compared to Patricia Highsmith, tells the story of a woman who has been passing herself off as an English socialite on the Riviera for 25 years – until the arrival of someone who knows her from her former life prompts an act of violence.

Cuckoo by Julia Crouch. Rose’s home and family start to fall apart when her best friend Polly comes to stay.

Louise Candlish:

The Murder of Roger Ackroyd by Agatha Christie. Christie’s classic – with a legendary twist. The best Hercule Poirot?

The Two Faces of January by Patricia Highsmith. A conman on the run with his wife meets a young American who becomes drawn into the crime they commit.

Alias Grace by Margaret Atwood. The author of The Handmaid’s Tale imagines the life of the real 19th-century Canadian killer Grace Marks.

Little Face by Sophie Hannah. Hannah’s thriller debut is about a young mother who becomes convinced that, after spending two hours away from her baby, the infant is not hers.

Alys, Always by Harriet Lane. Newspaper subeditor Frances is drawn into the lives of the Kyte family when she hears the last words of the victim of a car crash, Alys Kyte.

[lagarconne-journal]

New Season — Margaret Howell & MHL by Margaret Howell

"I always had these sort of connections with clothes – they were always a memory of something," Margaret Howell once told Dezeen. Eschewing the term “fashion designer,” Howell’s inimitably pragmatic approach to everyday staples is instantly appealing, pointing back to Howell’s English roots and eye for detail. A new season of her eponymous line and MHL by Margaret Howell collection sees classic trousers, signature knits, shirting and dresses in pristine seasonal fabrics, from crisp poplin and lightweight wool to workwear-inspired cotton drill. We love this season’s bursts color and pattern, featuring Margaret Howell’s pleated Windowpane skirt and bright citron oversized cotton and cashmere sweater.

Shop Margaret Howell & MHL by Margaret Howell.

[theapartmentstore]

- MHL by Margaret Howell London Inspired by #function and #utility #mhl #margarethowell #london @#theapartmentstore #apartment #apartmentstore #zurich https://www.instagram.com/theapartmentstore.ch/p/BwexxanAzZj/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=1wykeawkc2w5

[wp-yahoo-style-1042-yahoopa-blog]

Meghan Markle shows skin in a sexy tuxedo minidress to see 'Hamilton,' and social media loves it

Now that she’s a part of the royal family, Meghan Markle rarely gets to wear something even slightly sexy. So who could blame her for taking the opportunity to show some skin on date night?

Meghan attended a performance of Hamilton Wednesday night in London with Prince Harry and made jaws drop by appearing in a sleek tuxedo minidress for the occasion.

The couple’s date night was for a good cause, as the gala performance of musical benefited Sentebale, Prince Harry’s charity with Prince Seeiso of Lesotho.

Meghan Markle chose a daring look for her date night. (Photo: Dan Charity-WPA Pool/Getty Images)

For the occasion, the duchess went with a sophisticated yet sexy style. Her black double-breasted dress had a plunging neckline balanced out by long sleeves. The $600 Judith and Charles frock also had a shorter-than-normal hemline for the duchess, revealing a lot of leg, which was accentuated by Stuart Weitzman black suede pumps. And the shine on her gams says she wasn’t wearing pantyhose.

With a snug fit, the look was slightly sexy but also subdued, thanks to a lack of jewelry and a simple gold box clutch.

And social media is super-supportive of it.

“LET

THE

GIRL

BREATHE

!” one fan wrote.

LET 👏🏾THE 👏🏾GIRL👏🏾BREATHE👏🏾! #MeghanMarkle

— Nina♍ (@Niinstar) August 29, 2018

Definitely did not just order a similar dress to Meghan Markle already 👀

— hannah (@hannah61275535) August 29, 2018

meghan markle looks insanely good tonight like WOW that dress

— shauna (@pimpabxtterfly) August 29, 2018

The outfit is such a great "F*ck you U haters!" on so many levels. Absolutely love this couple.

Meghan Markle Attends Hamilton in Her Sexiest Look Yet – Prince Harry Meghan Markle Hamilton Appearance https://t.co/Y7LdXu6FSh

— MissFit (@MissFit56862376) August 29, 2018

Of course, people can’t stop commenting on her visible legs, so one Twitter user pointed out that it’s not the first time a royal has rocked a short hemline.

Seeing as everyone's going off at the length of Meghan's dress, here's a thread of Royals wearing dresses the same length or shorter. #DuchessofSussex #MeghanMarkle #DuchessofCambridge #KateMiddleton #PrincessDiana pic.twitter.com/F1lXclv0ZQ

— mollie (@molliemmarkle) August 29, 2018

It’s about time the girl got to wear a tuxedo. In July, a rumor spread that the Duchess of Sussex really wanted to wear a tuxedo during her first royal tour in Australia but that Prince Harry nixed the idea.

She follows in the footsteps of many amazing women who’ve made menswear their own. Jane Fonda wore a tuxedo for her 80th birthday party. Eva Longoria frequently wears plunging pantsuits. At 2016’s Golden Globes, Evan Rachel Wood wore a sexy tuxedo. And at last year’s Golden Globes, pantsuits held a lot of power, especially among women in support of #TimesUp.

Princess Diana in a tuxedo at Wembley Stadium in 1988. (Photo: Shutterstock)

Even her late mother-in-law, Princess Diana, rocked tuxedos and skirt suits a time or two, including a Margaret Howell tuxedo in 1984 and a Catherine Walker pink and purple tuxedo-style skirt suit in 1990.

Read more from Yahoo Lifestyle:

Meghan Markle Just Wore Princess Diana’s Signature Outfit to Buckingham Palace

Princess Diana Wore a Department Store Suit When She Got Engaged to Prince Charles

Meghan Markle’s wedding dress is going on display — here’s how to see it in person

Follow us on Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter for nonstop inspiration delivered fresh to your feed, every day.

[anniekoh]

Four children’s picture books for budding urban planners?  Two on solid waste, one on public art, and one on community gardens... 

Marvelous Cornelius: Hurricane Katrina and the Spirit of New Orleans Phil Bildner, Illustrated by John Parra (2015)

In New Orleans, there lived a man who saw the streets as his calling, and he swept them clean. He danced up one avenue and down another and everyone danced along. The old ladies whistled and whirled. The old men hooted and hollered. The barbers, bead twirlers, and beignet bakers bounded behind that one-man parade. But then came the rising Mississippi—and a storm greater than anyone had seen before. In this heartwarming book about a real garbage man, Phil Bildner and John Parra tell the inspiring story of a humble man and the heroic difference he made in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina.

Maybe Something Beautiful: How Art Transformed a Neighborhood F. Isabel Campoy and Theresa Howell, Illustrated by Rafael Lopez (2016)

What good can a splash of color do in a community of gray? As Mira and her neighbors discover, more than you might ever imagine! Based on the true story of the Urban Art Trail in San Diego, California, Maybe Something Beautiful reveals how art can inspire transformation—and how even the smallest artists can accomplish something big. Pick up a paintbrush and join the celebration!

City Green DyAnne DiSalvo-Ryan (1994)

Celebrate the 25th anniversary of City Green—the environmentally and community-conscious classic that shows the wonderful things kids can do when they put their minds to it—with this new paperback edition.

Right in the middle of Marcy’s city block is a vacant lot, littered and forlorn. Sometimes just looking at it makes Marcy feel sad. Then one spring, Marcy has a wonderful idea: Instead of a useless lot, why not a green and growing space for everyone to enjoy?

With her warm, hopeful text and inviting illustrations, DyAnne Disalvo-Ryan shows how a whole neighborhood blossoms when people join together and get involved.

Dear Garbage Man Gene Zion, Illustrated by Margaret Bloy Graham (1957) 

It's Stan's first day being a garbage man, and he wants to do a good job. But everything seems too good to put into the sanitation truck's smasher. Instead of throwing these things away, he gives them away! 

[saragrad701]

Cereal magazine is one of my inspirations as a designer so I was exited to see they had some of their own tour guide books in a collection called “city guides.” They have a clean, structured look to their books with a nostalgic feeling on the cover with B&W photography! They are larger in size more like coffee table books but I love they use a textured linen as a covering which makes them feel more professional and durable! 

An insight into what they include in these “city guides” from their website... London Guidebook

CEREAL CITY GUIDE A portrait of London, offering a curated edit on what to see and do.Rather than a comprehensive directory, this guide offers instead select points of interest and venues that reflect Cereal’s values in both quality and aesthetic sensibility.Carefully researched and illustrated with original photography and copy, each guide features 30 of Cereal’s favourite places and also includes: – a photo essay of the city – an illustrated neighbourhood map – interviews and essays from celebrated locals, such as architect John Pawson, fashion designer Margaret Howell, designer Michael Anastassiades, and more – lists of essential architectural points of interest, museums, galleries, day trips outside the city, and unique souvenirs – an itinerary for an ideal day in London

[sabineberlipp]

MARGARET HOWELL | AW 2018 | RUNWAY #penelopeloves #rundpassenpullover #knittedsweater #highneck #jacquardpattern #geometricpattern @margarethowellltd #margarethowell #awcollection ##aw18 #inspiration #autumncolours #keepitsimple #classy #instaknit #knitstagram #knittersofinstagram #knitspiration #seenat #vogue #runway #pinterest WERBUNG da Verlinkung #penelopesmissionofvision #pmov https://www.instagram.com/p/BnQkjZ9nTNn/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=mi25tv0vc1cb

[kentonramsey]

The Seaside Fashion Essentials… For British Weather

Last summer, after months of being confined to the same four walls, many of us – particularly those looking to leave the dreary concrete of cities and towns – sought escapism in cottagecore. The bucolic aesthetic celebrated all things pastoral, from country home interiors to picnic-ready prints like gingham and ditsy florals. If the pandemic didn’t see you upping sticks and leaving it all behind for pastures new, we’ll wager you lived out your rural fantasy via romantic prairie dresses and frilled collar blouses, taking inspiration from the likes of content creator Paula Sutton or one of the 5.6 billion videos tagged under the trend on TikTok.

Beyond the desire to escape our own personal Groundhog Day, the pandemic has given people new perspectives on the kind of life they want to live, with many being drawn to a more simplified and slower existence, closer to nature. Even if you didn’t have the urge to escape to the country, many of us spent last year exploring the great outdoors closer to home as international flights were banned and dreams of Italian piazzas and quaint French villages were put on ice. Having taken advantage of hyper-affordable flights over the past decade, many of us were guilty of neglecting the beauty in our own back garden. The pandemic allowed us to rediscover the joys of the Norfolk broads and Yorkshire moors.

As a big question mark looms once again over the idea of international travel, we’re back to planning our summer escapes on these shores. A year on from the first lockdown, though, as spring greets us with longer days and more promising weather, we’re not looking to the countryside for sartorial inspiration but to the great British seaside instead. We’re packing away our saccharine frills and reaching for sturdier staples better suited to rough-and-ready days combing the coastline, with quintessential pieces like stripes, linen and chunky knits taking note from salty afternoons spent eating fish and chips and fending off seagulls.

Designers, too, have departed from the chintzy prints of cottagecore and found inspiration at the seaside this spring. JW Anderson’s latest Moncler Genius project, a gender-fluid capsule titled A Nomadic Voyage, looked to the hues cast by a Northern Irish sun setting over the sea. Using Econyl®, a regenerated nylon derived from ocean and land-based waste, the collection is made up of fisherman beanies suitable for high winds, rubber boots made for exploring rock pools and quilted fabrics which will warm you up after an icy dip.

Elsewhere, Arket’s SS21 collection, called Modern Marinière, riffed on the classic striped knit (also known as the Breton shirt), a traditionally blue-and-white cotton long-sleeved top which originated as the uniform of French sailors in the early 19th century. “Marinière stripes are a reference we revisit season after season,” says Anna Teurnell, Arket’s head of design. “Every spring they feel new again, and they lighten up our wardrobes after the winter season. Over time, they have become a symbol of this joy. This year, we offer a new interpretation that makes reference to this mood by exploring not just the iconic stripes but also the garments we style them with, as we long for the first signs of spring.” Beyond the Breton, the collection offers water-resistant recycled nylon anoraks and hardy denim, plus oversized striped shirts, woollen hats and cotton chinos, all hallmarks of a traditional nautical aesthetic.

Over on the (virtual) catwalks of SS21, designers from Balmain to Celine celebrated the marinière stripe, while Margaret Howell and Etro featured sou’wester hats and fisherman beanies. So whether you hit Whitstable or Whitby, Brighton or Blackpool, St Ives or Salcombe, this summer it’s time to fall back in love with all the charms the seaside has to offer, from lemon-soaked scampi to the sugar rush of a stick of rock. Just make sure you dress accordingly, and be prepared for whatever the changeable British weather will throw at you.

The Marinière Jumper

The Sunnies

The Pull-On Shorts

The Sandals

The Chunky Knit

The Rubber Boots

The Swimsuit

The Beanie

The Cotton Button-Down

The Waterproof

The Cotton Trousers

The Beach Towel

Refinery29’s selection is purely editorial and independently chosen – we only feature items we love! As part of our business model we do work with affiliates; if you directly purchase something from a link on this article, we may earn a small amount of commission. Transparency is important to us at Refinery29, if you have any questions please reach out to us.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

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Double Denim Is Spring's Most Laid-Back Look

The Seaside Fashion Essentials… For British Weather published first on https://mariakistler.tumblr.com/

[fashioneditorbrief]

Alasdair McLellan

McLellan was born in 1974 in Doncaster, South Yorkshire. He has worked for the fashion press Vogue UK, Vogue Paris, i-D, Love, Another Magazine, Another Man, Arena Homme +, Man About Town, 032c, Self Service, The Gentlewoman, Fantastic Man, and W. He has photographed advertising campaigns for Louis Vuitton,Burberry, Topshop, Calvin Klein,Gucci,  Miu Miu, Margaret Howell, Palace and Supreme. He has worked with the xx and his portrait of Adele was used on the cover of her album, 25.

I have always loved McLellans photography as it is just so realistic and natural. Seeing he has alot of work featured in Self Service magazine really showed my how the magazine really has such a range of young creatives featured. Knowing McLellan is from Doncaster, not far from where i’m from really makes me believe anything is possible because he has gotten so far within the industry. 

I plan to take inspiration from his photographs from the realness of them to the wacky poses. I love how most models he features are pulling quite relaxed natural faces. 

[manhattan-rues]

Untitled #926 by minhie-inspiration featuring mens beanie hats

Margaret Howell clothing, $395 / Monki high-waisted jeans, $70 / Nike sneaker, $100 / Gucci leather fanny pack / McQ by Alexander McQueen belt, $155 / Retrò retro glasses / Carhartt mens beanie hat, $21