#Lug Wheel Bolts

[ezaccessory]

Lug Wheel Bolts- their importance and use

Lug wheel bolts are simply hardware that are used to secure the vehicle's tires and wheels set to the vehicle. Having the right lug bolt ensures the safe and secure installation of the wheel . They are small in size, but they are really important.

How long do lug bolts last?

Depending on the type of the vehicle as well as the age of the vehicle, the lug bolts may need replacement every five and fifteen years. The cost of a single lug bolt can be minimum $2 to maximum $7 or $8 a piece for most of the vehicles.

If the auto repair shop that the client is taking the wheels off of the vehicle– whether it’s to conduct a tire rotation process, brake repair process or adjust the wheel alignment, – it will definitely be worth the while to ask them if the lug bolts need alterations. They would rather put on new lug bolts if they know that the existing ones are worn or damaged.

Why do lug bolts swell?

Swollen lug bolts are a very common problem. The problem of swelling occurs when external moisture gouges its way into the space between the decorative chrome cover cap and the actual steel lug bolt that secures the wheel to the body of the vehicle.

With road salt and multiple other chemical agents, the situation of swelling worsens. Corrosion and rust get built up between the two pieces and aesthetically it looks tempting, it doesn’t really stay functional.

How to fix swollen lug bolts

Fortunately, one can shop ball seat lug bolts from the manufacturer of the vehicle. Unfortunately, one will have to face the same issues again over time and dealing with these issues will definitely not be cheap. The clients can also buy lug bolts for replacement from different sources at budget friendly rates but they will have to face the same issue over and over again.

To fix the problem once and for all, the users can buy solid chrome lug bolts for replacement. These bolts tend to fix the problem once and for all. Though they look different from the regular lug bolts, they are efficient in doing their job and have a build that doesn't allow rust to form.

Conclusion

Lug bolts are very essential for the smooth functioning of the vehicle. Therefore, one has to make sure that the installation as well as the working and condition of the ball Seat Lug bolts is well and good. Regular maintenance is required so that the bolts stay in good condition.

[woldinc]

Dually Wheels, Wheel Spacers, Dually Rims, Dually Wheel Adapters, Dual Wheel Conversion, Self Propelled Wheel : Wold, United States

Visit application equipment section for wide range of dually wheels, wheel spacers, dually tractor rear wheel spacers, dually rims, dually wheel adapters, dual wheel conversion, 2 dually wheel spacers, wheel spacer adapter, self propelled wheel. Visit us to find more info on farm tractor dual wheel spacers / adapters, tractor dual wheels, tractor wheel hub extensions, 8 to 10 bolt wheel adapters, 8 lug wheel spacers, etc.

[onlyhappyvibes]

Wheel

[forgeline]

Locked to the strip. The NW105 5-Lug Beadlock wheel is very similar to our original NW105 5-Lug one piece forged monoblock wheel with one big exception: It has been re-engineered to include a special bolt-on outboard beadlock ring that, like the wheel itself, is also precision-machined from forged 6061-T6 aluminum. This forged aluminum ring holds the tire securely in place, to limit unwanted tire slip against the wheel, and to keep the tire from unseating, at very high speeds. The forged beadlock ring is secured to the wheel with a series of 21 standard lightweight titanium bolts. The Forgeline forged monoblock NW105 5-Lug Beadlock features a split 7-spoke design with tapered angular spokes and pronounced chamfered edges that creates a high-tech appearance on par with its advanced engineering technology and standard-setting performance capability. It is is available to order immediately in 17-inch, 18-inch, and 19-inch diameters in a range of widths and custom offsets & fitments. And just like any Forgeline wheel, the NW105 5-Lug Beadlock is available with fully customizable finish options. Learn more (including sizes and pricing) at: https://forgeline.com/wheel/nw105-5-lug-beadlock

🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

[daveyfvckingjacobs]

[materialising physically in your home already sat cross-legged on the floor] say more about the mechanics au please

ok ok ok so

I’m thinking something like it’s a garage owned either by weasel or oscar and morris’ father that they all work at (to varying levels of willingness) and were raised around

they tend to get left to their own devices in the workshop on jobs, after long enough doing admin/paperwork for at least someone to realise morris isn’t good at it, oscar hates it and otto used to charge way too much just for fun until he got in trouble with the police for someone to realise it’s best they don’t do that anymore

morris is sort of neutral about the work. he finds the noises of the types of cars they get in often overwhelming, and a lot of the messy jobs (changing oil, greasing, even the gritty hand wash) quite a lot sensory wise. he knows them all inside out though, and could list off part numbers for any number of makes and years off the top of his head far better than the others. usually he’ll be found on a stool somewhere cleaning out parts with spirit or doing the mot checks and cleanings instead of big repair jobs. the easy, repetitive tasks where he can use his hands without gloves that oscar sets him too. he’s much better at identifying problems than oscar or otto, more attuned to the small noises/signs oscar misses and otto doesn’t have the patience to look for

oscar is pretty much the complete opposite of his brother; he loves working in the garage. he loves the physical nature of it, lugging around wheels and tools, all the bolts and screws and dirt. he’s very careless and thus covered in nicks and scrapes and burns from fiddling in too hot engine bays or refusing to lie on the foam mats. most of the time he’s the one underneath the cars, reckless with jacks and axle stands to the point it makes morris nervous. he’s similar to morris in that all of his tools wherever he’s working will be laid out all in arms reach, neat but filthy as he usually takes on big repair jobs and the messier servicing work morris avoids. he’s gets frustrated easily but doesn’t mind, because if he kicks a wheel of hits a spark plug with a spanner they won’t kick or hit back, so it’s a good form of anger relief

otto is equally reckless and also - said with such affection - an idiot when it comes to the work, but a smart idiot. he deals with customers most when they’re working because oscar can’t kept a civil tongue (‘it’s smoking cause the water pipe is just loose it’s literally just fucking steam I swear to fuck-‘). he’s a master at ‘fuck around and see what happens’, offering the most bizarre solutions to issues (specific tools made of cut up other tools, zip ties everywhere or just shake it till it works sort of thing) and more accident prone that oscar, and ten times more messy.

he loves fixing and servicing his own car thats technically all three of theirs because they can’t afford one each - a 1970 dodge challenger because it wouldn’t be me if it wasn’t a classic. it’s scrappy thing, full of haphazard fixes and additions that are totally not road worthy or legal but he does them anyway. oscar works on it too but only when something is broken, while otto takes it apart just for fun and morris is happy to watch him and give ideas

I have a lot of ideas for smaller scenarios based on my experiences I can add but this is v long so I’ll do that later :]

bonus: the image of oscar in a tank top and gloves with overalls tied around his waist covered in oil and dirt and a little bit of sweat. yeah

[pinkiepiebones]

if it’s ok can I request gardener renfield opening up a greenhouse :-)

Years after the death of Dracula, Robert Montague Renfield buys his first home. Well, technically it's his second home, but the first one was purchased well over a hundred years ago and for all he knows might have been knocked down and paved over to create a new by-pass.

Anyway.

Robert's settled in New Orleans, because it is where Dracula was dismembered and mixed with concrete and dumped into the sewer system and he'd like to keep an eye out for any vampiric shenanigans that may arise, but also because he's just tired of moving. He sells most of the objects d'art he's been lugging around the past century. He puts some in a storage unit though, out of a sour mix of nostalgia and dread- the stuffed raven, the stuffed albino fox, a few paintings, some bolts of fabric. The coffin.

"Dude, someone would pay millions for that coffin," his best friend Rebecca Quincy asserted the day Robert wheeled it out of the rented U-Haul and into storage. "There's some weird old rich guy out there who would totally want it. You don't have to keep it."

Robert swiped his arm across his brow. "Who'd buy this thing? Honestly? It's a lead box lined with the fur of some extinct animal. Give me a name."

Rebecca thought a moment. "Nicholas Cage?"

"Hasn't he already got a pyramid tomb?"

"Oh yeah... Well maybe he'd use Dracula's coffin as a coffee table or somethin'."

Robert shook his head. "Even if I had a way to contact Mister Cage, I doubt even someone of his, ah, eccentricity would want this." Robert shoved the coffin into the darkest corner of the storage unit. "No, it'll do just fine tucked back here."

Robert's new home is small-but bigger than his apartment with two bedrooms, one and a half bathrooms, and a full acre of yard space- and what the home renovation shows would call a "fixer upper" with "good bones." It makes him happy to work on it. He listens to music and the occasional psychology podcast as he polishes the original wood floors or paints the walls or rewires the light switches. It's therapeutic- he's gone from caring for a monster to caring for himself, and he has found that he enjoys making things bright.

The yard is a paradise for Robert. In the front yard he sticks a couple of those cheery plastic flamingoes he'd wanted for decades and puts in a white picket fence. He gives his home what the home renovation shows would call "great curb appeal." Perhaps superstitiously now, Robert makes sure to not buy a "welcome" mat, and he plants wolfsbane just inside the fence's perimeter. In his head he plays a very old memory of Doctor Van Helsing waving the wolfsbane in his face. It turned out that the man had been right- Dracula fucking hated this stuff.

His backyard is the bigger of the two yards and he decides quite early on he wants a greenhouse. Rebecca helps him build it (mostly because he promises to take her out somewhere nice for dinner, but also because she's his friend and she loves how happy he is). It's small, maybe a bit bigger than two tool sheds, but the inside walls have sturdy, wide shelves where he can start seeds, there's a toolbox with drawers for labels and waterproof markers and seed packets. Bags of soil and watering cans are carefully tucked under the shelves and garden spades varying in length hang from a little cork board propped up against a wall. Robert even refurbished an old battery powered radio and has it set to a station playing classical music, since that seems to be what plants like the most. There's fresh white gravel making up the floor and a thermometer hangs from a string of fairy lights tacked to the wooden frame of the glass door. Plans for a garden are scribbled on a pad of paper beside the toolbox.

Robert and Rebecca are on his little patio one evening, sitting in refurbished mid-century lawn chairs and drinking fizzy alcoholic drinks. Rebecca gestures to the greenhouse. "That turned out pretty good, didn't it?"

Robert nods.

"You ever think about scaling it up?"

"What do you mean?"

Rebecca sets her drink down to gesticulate as she talks. "I mean, you still own the hospital, right? If you pay someone to demolish the building, that'd be a great place to build a greenhouse that people could come buy stuff from." She picks up her drink and sips. "You could even have classes, y'know, on proper plant care. People would love that shit."

Robert smiles. "I guess I never really thought about it. Might feel good to share what I do," he pauses to take a drink, "especially now that what I do isn't, you know, terrible."

Rebecca chuckles.

[dothemacarena]

This morning I went to head to work but felt something wrong with my car before I got out of the driveway.

Flat Tire

Decide to just call in sick instead of borrowing roommates car or calling an uber because I have been wanting a mental health day and I can use the time to change the tire.

Now I know how to change a tire, but I have never done it fully myself. I have had my dad with me in the past. And I could get help from the aforementioned roommate, but I want to prove to myself that I am a strong independent woman who can change her own tire if it is ever needed on a road trip when I don't have a roommate handy.

Task 1: get the spare out of the trunk.

I have to remove a few things from my trunk (oil, wiper fluid, emergency blanket, jumpers, car powered air pump) but I get to the secret tire easy enough. Getting the tire out is a little harder then is supposed to be. There is supposed to be a rope wrapped around it that can be used to pull it out of the perfectly wheel sized hole but apparently whoever last put the spare in forgot it, but with a little work I get it out. Not too bad off to a good start.

Task 2: Get the stupid lug covers off.

I don't know if all cars have these but my car has these little plastic covers over the lugs that have to be removed before a tire iron can be used. (theft deterrent?) They have a little hole in the center where you stick a allen wrench or screw driver to pry them off. I spend way longer than I felt like it should take getting them off and I partially broke one in the process, but I have spares in the glove box.

Task 3: loosen the lugs.

This is the part that I always though would be the hardest, the think most likely to prevent me from changing my tire in the real world. I have a four way tire iron, and the spare came with another one, but my dad always said the four way ones were better so I put it on a lug. I stand on top of it, I jump up and down on it, I jump up and down on it more.

Nothing. Not a single inch of give. If I was on the side of a highway this would have to be when I give up either calling someone for a rescue or hopefully some friendly guy in a truck has pulled over to help me because I simply can't exert more force.

Luckily this did not happen on the highway it happened at home in our garage full of things. So plan #2 I climb up to the other half of our garage (which is usually up three steps but the steps broke so it is just one BIG step right now) I look for a metal pipe for more leverage. None to be found. Lots of PVC, but I think the PVC will give out before the bolt turns. I grab a piece and try it anyway I get a good amount of bend in the PVC and stop there before I break it. PVC is a no go.

Plan #3 I climb back into the upper garage, return the PVC pipes and grab a big sledge hammer to try hitting the tire iron. I get a few good whacks in, but it doesn't seem to be working. It's a dud. I return the sledge hammer trying to think of a plan #4. I climb down from the upper garage and notice something I missed before a length of metal pipe hidden amongst the big exercise equipment that never gets used this could be it!

Plan #4 the pipe is kinda rusty , pretty thin metal, and it doesn't fit on the tire iron, but luckily it does fit on the other tire iron 🎉. I slide it on and get to work. It is still hard. I still have to stand and jump on it, and it makes several disconcerting noises and cracks as I go (it is thin rusty metal after all) but I do it I get them loosened enough that I can turn them each without using the pipe extension or jumping. Plan 4 succeeds and I mentally note to buy a length of pipe for my trunk.

Task 4: Jack shit up

I have the jack that came with my vehicle/spare and it has a little sticker on it showing how to position it. I put it in place, put on the crank and crank it up. It is a little tedious and tiring but not to bad. Now that the really hard physical part is done and the less physically taxing possibly complicated step is complete it should be smooth sailing.

Task 5: Remove the lugs

Since I loosened all of the lugs pretty far earlier this goes fairly quick and easy, though my fingers are starting to ache. (it doesn't help that I went rock climbing last night). I get the lugs all off and in a pile for later.

Task 6: Removing the wheel

This by all means should be the easiest part. Everything that holds the wheel on has already been removed. I pull the tire. It doesn't budge. I re-grip and pull from a different spot. Still nothing. Maybe if i pull from the rim. Nope. I am getting frustrated at this point. I kick the tire and rim several times from different angles. Still on.

I go inside to eat lunch and try to look up if there is something I'm missing. Wiki-how says if the wheel is stubborn to hit around the rim with a rubber mallet. After eating I grab one and go whack it. I repeat several cycles of hitting it with the mallet, kicking it, and trying to pull it off. I am making no progress. I climb into the upper garage again and grab some WD-40. I spray it where the lugs used to be. I wait a few minutes and repeat a few more cycles of hitting with the mallet and kicking and pulling. I have now spent almost as much time trying to remove the wheel that is not attached as I spent loosening the lugs.

Stage 7: Acceptance

I give up. My will is strong, but my body is less so. I go inside back to my computer leaving the car jacked and the lugs off. My roommate is in the middle of a long conference call and will be busy until later, but once it is done he will help me. I must accept that in this I cannot be a strong independent woman who don't need no man.

How lucky then to live in a world where I know kind men that will help.

I write a tumblr post while my roommate finishes up work for the day.

[airkewld]

July 8th | Mexico | You actually handed money over for this job...

Daniel from IAS Labs dropped me an email about updating his 1975 Brasilia and its front suspension. He used the word "hacked" in his initial email. I wasn't ready for the pictures that came back.

If ANY experience, for reference, I have 21+ years, resonates with you, head this warning. If you hire someone and you don't vet their work, you could actually hand money over for this kind of work. Please, don't risk your life or the lives around you even thinking of driving around the streets with so many issues. Please.

With that said, Daniel asked for the PRO's expertise on what it would update this Brasilia and bring safety, enjoyment, and quality of ride, back to the forefront of this Classic VW. The Answer. The Stage 2 PRObuilt Beam.

With the vehicle having cosmic wheels and the current 5" narrowed beam, Daniel was having rubbing problem on the inner fenderwells and he also did not like how much it tucked inside the fenders. We opted to do the 2" narrowed version to check as many boxes as possible. Here are the specs on the beam;

Stage 2 PRObuilt Air Ride Ball Joint Beam Complete - 2203

The BEST way to add Air Ride to a Classic Volkswagen Type 1 with ball joint front suspension (1966 through 1977), is by installing a Stage 2 PRObuilt Beam. When the PRO's say complete, they mean complete. You will not need anything in addition to this assembly. The Stage 2 PRObuilt Beam is built on the Ultimate Beam platform. It's made in stock width and up to four inches narrower than OEM to allow for wider wheels, drop spindles, and disc brakes, that add track width. The complete beam comes as you see it, spindle to spindle, with an entire PRObuilt steering system installed and ready to bolt in and go.

What's included? This Stage 2 PRObuilt Beam is spindle to spindle, built in any configuration, from stock to four inch narrowed. It comes powder-coated, satin black, ready to install. The front end comes complete with the following;

New Ultimate Adjustable Beam

Through Rods

New Tie rods

New Air Ride Shocks

New Drum Drop Spindles (CB Performance/EMPI) or OEM Spindles

New Steering Dampener

New Hardware

New Grease Zerks

Premium Tie rod Ends

Premium Ball Joints

PRObuilt Steering Box filled with Corn Head Grease

Reconditioned pitman/drop arm/clamp

PRObuilt Control Arms

New eccentrics

What's recommended?

When it comes to how narrow you need, check out this article here. The PRO's recommend a FOUR Inch narrowed for most applications as it allows for just about any wheel to fit and tuck under the fenders.

If you are going for the dropped look and want to run either Airkewld's GEN 2 Disc Brake kit or your factory drums opt for the DRUM Drop Spindles. If you keep your Factory Disc Brakes (4 lug), opt for the DISC Drop Spindles. If you are keeping the drop moderate, a stock height spindle for the drum or factory disc is available. If you want to run the disc brakes you already have, click here.

Install kit (saves time, ensuring you have everything needed to do the job right) New beam bolts, upper and lower body pads, and inspection plate) .

If you want to make this beam install even more complete, maybe installing a GEN 2 Disc Brake kit might make sense. To have the PRO's install them, you will need to add the labor to do that here, then choose your disc brake kit here.

You will need an Air Management Kit (AMK) to lift and lower the vehicle on demand. If you are only doing front air ride, you can use a 2 valve AMK and use one valve per corner. This will eliminate sway left to right when turning. Trust me. If you are going to do full air ride, then the 4 valve AMK is what you need. (If you decide to use a different manufacture for air management, the PRO's will be UNABLE to tech support any issues you have as we will be unable to replicate the issue in house).

If your steering coupler from your column to your steering box has seen better days, the PRO's suggest the OEM PRObuilt Steering Box Coupler found here.

Kewl Features

American made

7.5 inches of up-and-down movement

Taller shock towers allow for the use of shocks that will work with any ride height adjustment

Industries finest packaging to ensure it will arrive to you unscathed

FAQ

Do I need to do body mods to install this beam? No. The inside dimension is 29 13/16". That gives a clearance of 1/16" on each side.

How do you narrow the beam 4" when I only have 1/2 inch on each side of my stock beam? We utilize the outer ends of the tubes and gusset outwards to give us the needed space. Here is a video that explains it.

Do I need to send in a core? No. The PRO's have a few options for your cores. Check them out here.

Will I need anything in addition to this assembly? No. It's as complete as it comes from the factory.

The front end will be coated apart and assembled to keep the clean look with new hardware. It's set to the medium height setting so that you can adjust it to your liking. It's pre-greased, and alignment will set in a rough application for shipping.

Financing is available during checkout.

What do you think of the old beam build and what do you think of the new beam build?

[may-automotive-llc]

A Comprehensive Guide to Auto Repair: How-to Tutorials for Vehicle Maintenance

Auto repair is an essential part of vehicle ownership, ensuring your car runs smoothly and remains reliable. Whether you're handling basic maintenance or tackling more advanced fixes, learning how to perform simple auto repair tasks can save you time and money. In this guide, we'll walk you through common auto repairs, offer practical how-to tutorials, and provide valuable tips for keeping your vehicle in top shape.

Understanding the Basics of Auto Repair

Before diving into specific tutorials, it's helpful to understand the basic principles of auto repair. Vehicles consist of many interdependent systems — such as the engine, brakes, transmission, and electrical components — all of which require regular maintenance. Auto repair refers to any action taken to diagnose, fix, or maintain these systems.

1. How to Change Your Oil

Changing your car's oil is one of the most common auto repair tasks and a crucial part of vehicle maintenance. Regular oil changes keep your engine running smoothly, preventing wear and tear caused by friction. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to change your oil:

Gather materials: You'll need fresh oil, a new oil filter, a wrench, a drain pan, a funnel, and a jack if your car sits low.

Raise the vehicle: Use the jack to lift your vehicle, ensuring it's secure and level.

Locate the drain plug: Find the oil drain plug underneath your car, usually near the engine.

Drain the old oil: Place the drain pan under the plug, loosen it with a wrench, and let the old oil drain out.

Replace the oil filter: Unscrew the old oil filter and replace it with a new one. Apply a bit of oil to the new filter’s rubber gasket before installing it.

Add new oil: Reinsert the drain plug, lower the car, and pour the recommended amount of new oil into the engine through the oil cap.

Tip: Check your owner's manual to know the exact type and amount of oil your vehicle requires.

2. How to Replace Brake Pads

Worn-out brake pads can affect your vehicle's stopping power and compromise safety. While brake repairs might seem daunting, replacing brake pads is manageable with the right tools and instructions. Follow these steps to replace your brake pads:

Gather tools: You'll need a lug wrench, a car jack, a socket set, new brake pads, and brake cleaner.

Loosen lug nuts: Before jacking up the car, slightly loosen the lug nuts on the wheels.

Raise the vehicle: Use a jack to lift the car and fully remove the lug nuts to take off the wheel.

Remove the caliper: Find the brake caliper and remove the bolts holding it in place. Be careful not to let the brake line stretch too much.

Replace the pads: Slide out the old brake pads and install the new ones, ensuring they fit snugly.

Reassemble the brakes: Reattach the caliper, put the wheel back on, and tighten the lug nuts.

3. How to Replace a Car Battery

A dead or weak car battery is one of the most common reasons vehicles fail to start. Here's how you can replace your car battery:

Turn off the car: Always turn off your vehicle before handling any electrical components.

Locate the battery: Most car batteries are located under the hood, but some may be in the trunk or under the seat.

Disconnect the battery: Use a wrench to loosen the nut on the negative terminal (black), then do the same for the positive terminal (red). Always disconnect the negative first to avoid short-circuiting.

Remove the battery: Carefully lift the battery out of the compartment.

Install the new battery: Place the new battery in the compartment and reconnect the positive terminal first, then the negative.

Check the installation: Ensure the battery is secure and the terminals are properly connected.

Why Auto Repair Matters for Long-Term Vehicle Health

Routine auto repair is not just about fixing problems — it's about preventing them. Keeping up with maintenance tasks like oil changes, brake pad replacements, and battery checks ensures your car remains reliable and efficient. Additionally, regular upkeep can extend the life of your vehicle and help you avoid expensive repairs down the road.

Learning Auto Repair with Confidence

While some auto repair jobs are more complicated and may require professional assistance, tackling smaller tasks yourself can boost your confidence and save on repair costs. Here's how you can continue to learn and improve your DIY skills:

Consult your vehicle’s manual: Always refer to your owner's manual for specific instructions, parts, and tools needed for auto repairs.

Watch tutorials: Online tutorials and step-by-step videos can be a helpful supplement to written guides.

Invest in tools: Having the right tools on hand makes a big difference in the success of your DIY auto repair projects.

Know when to call a professional: Certain repairs, such as engine issues or transmission repairs, are best left to experts to avoid causing further damage.

Common Auto Repair Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced DIY enthusiasts make mistakes when it comes to auto repair. Here are a few common errors to watch out for:

Over-tightening parts: It’s easy to overtighten screws, bolts, and nuts, but doing so can strip threads or break components.

Skipping safety precautions: Always wear protective gear and follow safety guidelines to prevent injury or damage to your vehicle.

Using incorrect parts: Be sure to use manufacturer-recommended parts to ensure compatibility and performance.

Conclusion: Embrace the World of Auto Repair

By learning basic auto repair skills, you can gain a deeper understanding of your vehicle and handle common issues without breaking the bank. While some jobs may be better suited for professionals, tasks like changing your oil, replacing brake pads, and installing a new battery are great starting points for any DIY auto repair enthusiast.

[vividracing]

New Post has been published on https://www.vividracing.com/blog/the-best-wheel-fitment-for-a-honda-civic-fl5-type-r/

The Best Wheel Fitment for a Honda Civic FL5 Type R

Figuring out the best wheel fitment for the Honda Civic FL5 Type R wasn’t easy, but we’ve done the hard work so you don’t have to. After plenty of research, we’ve nailed down the top options that balance performance, style, and practicality. Whether you’re after a track setup or something more street friendly, we’ve got the fitment recommendations to make your FL5 the best looking Type R in your state.

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  A post shared by Vivid Racing (@vividracing)

  Our Recommended: 18×9.5 +45  | 5×120

Spicy Fitment Recommendation: 18×10 +35 | 5×120

  For anyone wanting to run a different set up than flush or stock fitment, like tucked, poked, or stanced, here are some of the minimum and maximum ranges we found before needing to do any other major suspension or fender modifications.

Total Ranges of Sizing

Our Wheel Recommendations

VR Forged D03R

Diameter: 18×9.5

Offset: 45mm

Bolt Pattern: 5×120

Center Bore: 64.1

Wheel Finish: Gunmetal

Wheel Weight (KG): 9.9

Load Rating (KG): 690

Lug Style: Conical

Recommended Tire Size: 255/35/18

  Volk Racing TE37 SL

Finish: Flat Black

Size: 18×9.5

PCD: 5×120

Offset: 38mm

  Weds RN-05M

Finish: Samurai Gold

Size: 18×9.5

PCD: 5×120

Offset: 36mm

Outer Rim Depth: 36.0mm

Center Cap: Included part# 52724

Valve Stem: Included Part No. S41A2B

  If you need a new set of wheels for your Honda Civic FL5 Type R, we have plenty of options for you at Vividracing.com

Or you can email Sales@vividracing.com or call (480) 966-3040

[ezaccessory]

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Lug Wheel Bolts

Lug wheel bolts are a crucial component of your vehicle's wheel assembly. These bolts are responsible for securing the wheel to the hub, ensuring that the wheel stays in place and functions correctly. Lug wheel bolts come in various lengths, widths, and thread sizes, and it's crucial to choose the right bolts that match your wheel and hub specifications. Different vehicles require different types of lug wheel bolts, and it's essential to select the correct ones to avoid accidents and damage to your vehicle.

To ensure that lug wheel bolts are tightened to the manufacturer's specifications, it is crucial to torque them correctly. This helps to prevent the wheels from becoming loose while driving, which can be dangerous and cause accidents. Regular inspection and maintenance of lug wheel bolts are also essential to ensure that they remain in good condition and perform their intended function reliably. Maintaining lug wheel bolts can help identify any issues early on, allowing for timely repairs or replacement, thus avoiding potential problems and maintaining vehicle safety.

Installing lug wheel bolts may seem like a straightforward process, but it's essential to avoid common mistakes that could lead to significant problems later on. Here are some common mistakes to avoid when installing lug wheel bolts:

Not cleaning the hub or wheel properly before installation - Dirt, debris, or rust on the hub or wheel can affect the torque and cause the wheel to become loose.

Using the wrong type or size of lug wheel bolts - Using the wrong size or type of lug wheel bolts can result in a poor fit, leading to potential accidents and damage to the vehicle.

Overtightening or undertightening the bolts - Overtightening the bolts can cause damage to the threads, while undertightening can lead to the wheel coming loose while driving.

Not torquing the bolts correctly - It's essential to torque the bolts to the manufacturer's specifications, as overtightening or undertightening can affect the wheel's performance.

Using damaged or worn-out lug wheel bolts - Using damaged or worn-out lug wheel bolts can lead to the wheel coming loose, causing accidents and damage to the vehicle.

Not using a torque wrench - Using a torque wrench ensures that the bolts are tightened to the manufacturer's specifications, reducing the risk of overtightening or undertightening.

Reusing old lug wheel bolts - It's essential to replace old or damaged bolts with new ones to ensure a secure fit and avoid potential problems.

By steering clear of these common mistakes, you can ensure that your lug wheel bolts are installed correctly, minimizing the chances of accidents and damage to your vehicle.

[woldinc]

5 Hole Skid Loader Rim with 4.5 bolt circle : Wold, Canada and United States

https://www.woldinc.com/product/items/g2/skid-loaders/c39/skid-loader/s144/5-hole-skid-loader-4.5-bolt-circle-

[simonautorepairma]

A Comprehensive How-To Guide for Auto Repair: Keep Your Vehicle Running Smoothly

A Comprehensive How-To Guide for Auto Repair: Keep Your Vehicle Running Smoothly

Maintaining your vehicle is crucial for its longevity, performance, and safety on the road. Whether you’re an experienced DIYer or someone new to vehicle maintenance, knowing some basics of auto repair can save you time and money while ensuring your car stays in optimal condition. In this how-to guide, we’ll walk you through some of the essential auto repair tasks you can do yourself, as well as tips on when it’s best to visit a professional mechanic.

Why Learning Auto Repair Basics Is Important

Auto repair isn’t just for professionals; there are plenty of small repairs and maintenance tasks that any car owner can handle. Understanding the basics of vehicle maintenance can help you catch issues early, avoid costly breakdowns, and extend the life of your vehicle. Plus, knowing how your car works empowers you to make informed decisions when you do need to visit a mechanic.

Let’s dive into some of the most common auto repair tasks and how you can tackle them yourself.

1. Changing Your Oil

Oil changes are one of the most important auto repair tasks for keeping your engine running smoothly. Oil lubricates your engine's moving parts and helps prevent overheating. Over time, oil breaks down and becomes less effective, so regular oil changes are essential.

How to Change Your Oil:

Gather Supplies: You’ll need fresh oil, an oil filter, a wrench, a funnel, and a drain pan.

Drain the Old Oil: Locate the oil drain plug under your car and place the drain pan beneath it. Remove the plug and let the oil drain completely.

Replace the Oil Filter: Use the wrench to remove the old oil filter and replace it with a new one.

Refill with New Oil: After replacing the drain plug, pour the new oil into your engine using a funnel.

Check the Oil Level: Use the dipstick to ensure the oil is at the correct level.

When to Visit a Mechanic: If you’re unsure about the right type of oil or filter for your car, or if your oil drain plug is stuck, it’s best to consult a professional.

2. Replacing Brake Pads

Worn brake pads can compromise your vehicle’s stopping power, leading to unsafe driving conditions. Replacing brake pads is a straightforward auto repair task that can improve your vehicle's safety.

How to Replace Brake Pads:

Gather Supplies: You’ll need new brake pads, a jack, a lug wrench, and a C-clamp.

Remove the Wheel: Use the jack to lift the car and remove the wheel to access the brake assembly.

Remove Old Brake Pads: Loosen the caliper bolts and slide the caliper off the rotor. Remove the old brake pads.

Install New Brake Pads: Slide the new brake pads into place and use the C-clamp to compress the caliper piston.

Reattach the Caliper and Wheel: Tighten the caliper bolts and replace the wheel.

When to Visit a Mechanic: If you notice deep grooves on the brake rotors or if the brake pedal feels spongy after replacing the pads, you should take your vehicle to a professional for further inspection.

3. Replacing a Car Battery

A dead battery is one of the most common reasons vehicles fail to start. Fortunately, replacing a battery is a simple auto repair task you can do yourself.

How to Replace a Car Battery:

Gather Supplies: You’ll need a new battery, a wrench, and a pair of gloves.

Turn Off the Engine: Make sure the engine is off before starting.

Disconnect the Old Battery: Use the wrench to disconnect the negative terminal first, followed by the positive terminal. Carefully remove the battery from its tray.

Install the New Battery: Place the new battery in the tray and reconnect the positive terminal first, then the negative terminal.

Secure the Battery: Tighten the clamps and make sure the battery is secured in place.

When to Visit a Mechanic: If your car still won’t start after replacing the battery, it could be due to an issue with the alternator or electrical system, which requires a professional’s attention.

4. Fixing a Flat Tire

Getting a flat tire can happen at the worst possible time, but knowing how to change it can save you from being stranded.

How to Change a Flat Tire:

Gather Supplies: You’ll need a spare tire, a lug wrench, a jack, and a wheel chock.

Loosen the Lug Nuts: Before lifting the car, use the lug wrench to loosen the lug nuts on the flat tire.

Jack Up the Car: Place the jack under your car’s frame and lift the vehicle until the flat tire is off the ground.

Remove the Flat Tire: Take off the loosened lug nuts and remove the flat tire.

Install the Spare: Place the spare tire on the wheel hub and hand-tighten the lug nuts.

Lower the Car: Once the car is lowered, tighten the lug nuts securely with the wrench.

When to Visit a Mechanic: If the spare tire is temporary (often called a "donut"), it’s important to get the flat tire repaired or replaced as soon as possible. Additionally, if you notice uneven tire wear, it could indicate a need for wheel alignment.

5. Replacing Headlight Bulbs

Driving with a burned-out headlight is not only unsafe but also illegal in many areas. Replacing a headlight bulb is another simple auto repair task you can do at home.

How to Replace a Headlight Bulb:

Gather Supplies: You’ll need a replacement bulb and possibly a screwdriver, depending on your car’s make and model.

Access the Headlight: Open the hood and locate the headlight assembly. Some cars may require you to remove the battery or air intake to reach the headlight.

Remove the Old Bulb: Twist the headlight socket and pull out the old bulb.

Install the New Bulb: Insert the new bulb into the socket and twist it back into place.

Test the Lights: Turn on your headlights to ensure the new bulb is working correctly.

When to Visit a Mechanic: If the headlight still doesn’t work after replacing the bulb, the problem could be with the electrical wiring or fuse, which should be checked by a mechanic.

Conclusion

Learning basic auto repair skills can help you maintain your vehicle more effectively, save money on repairs, and boost your confidence as a car owner. While some repairs, like changing oil or replacing a battery, can be done at home, it’s important to know when to consult a professional mechanic for more complex issues. By mastering these essential auto repair tasks, you’ll keep your vehicle running smoothly and ensure that you’re prepared for the unexpected on the road.

Whether you’re a seasoned DIYer or just starting out, having a few basic auto repair skills under your belt is a valuable investment in your vehicle’s long-term health.

[forgeline]

High-tech meets high-style; we bring you the new Forgeline forged  monoblock NW105 5-Lug Beadlock.

The NW105 5-Lug Beadlock wheel is very similar to our high-tech NW105  5-Lug forged monoblock wheel with one big exception: It has been  re-engineered to include a special bolt-on outboard beadlock ring that,  like the wheel itself, is also precision-machined from forged 6061-T6  aluminum. This forged aluminum ring holds the tire securely in place, to  limit unwanted tire slip against the wheel, and to keep the tire from  unseating, at very high speeds. The forged beadlock ring is secured to  the wheel with a series of 21 standard lightweight titanium bolts.

Forgeline’s new One Piece Forged Monoblock NW105 5-Lug Beadlock wheel  is available to order immediately in 17, 18, and 19-inch diameters in a  range of widths and custom offsets & fitments. Upon request, it can  be engineered to work with shank-style lug nuts. And just like any  Forgeline wheel, the NW105 5-Lug Beadlock is available with fully  customizable finish options.

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[jandsautomotiveusa]

A Step-by-Step Guide to Suspension Repair: How to Keep Your Ride Smooth and Safe

Your vehicle’s suspension system plays a crucial role in maintaining ride comfort and handling stability, especially on uneven or rough roads. However, over time, components in the suspension can wear out or become damaged, leading to issues that affect your vehicle's performance. Addressing these problems early with proper suspension repair not only ensures a smoother ride but also enhances safety.

This how-to guide will walk you through the basics of diagnosing common suspension issues, performing repairs, and maintaining your suspension system to extend its lifespan.

Why Suspension Repair is Important

The suspension system is designed to absorb shock and provide a smooth ride by keeping your tires in contact with the road. A worn or damaged suspension can lead to poor handling, uneven tire wear, and decreased stopping power. Without timely suspension repair, these problems can worsen, affecting both the comfort and safety of your vehicle.

Common Signs of Suspension Problems

Before diving into suspension repair, it’s essential to know the signs that indicate your suspension may need attention. Here are some common symptoms:

Bumpy or rough ride: If you feel every bump on the road, your shocks or struts may be worn out.

Uneven tire wear: Poor alignment or faulty suspension can cause your tires to wear unevenly.

Leaning or pulling to one side: This may indicate a suspension imbalance or alignment issue.

Excessive bouncing: After hitting a bump, if your car bounces more than a couple of times, your suspension might need repair.

Difficulty steering: A loose or stiff steering wheel can be a sign of suspension damage.

Nose diving when braking: If the front of your vehicle dips when you brake, your shocks may need replacing.

If you notice any of these signs, it’s time to inspect your suspension system and consider repairs.

Tools and Materials Needed for Suspension Repair

Before starting any repair work, gather the necessary tools and materials:

Jack and jack stands

Lug wrench

Socket set and wrench set

Screwdrivers

Suspension components (e.g., shocks, struts, bushings, control arms)

Torque wrench

Penetrating oil (for rusted parts)

Safety gloves and goggles

Step-by-Step Guide to Basic Suspension Repair

Let’s dive into the basic steps of suspension repair, focusing on replacing common components like shocks and struts, which are often the culprits behind poor ride quality.

Step 1: Ensure Safety and Lift the Vehicle

Start by parking your car on a level surface and engaging the parking brake. Use a jack to lift the vehicle and secure it with jack stands. Always double-check the stability of your car before working underneath it. Remove the wheel using a lug wrench to access the suspension components.

Step 2: Inspect the Suspension System

Once the wheel is removed, take a close look at the suspension parts. Check for any visible damage, such as cracks or leaks from the shocks or struts. Examine the bushings, control arms, and ball joints for signs of wear. If any component shows damage or excessive wear, it’s time to replace it.

Step 3: Remove the Old Shocks or Struts

If you’re replacing worn shocks or struts, follow these steps:

Loosen the bolts: Use your socket set to remove the bolts securing the shock or strut to the suspension system. You may need penetrating oil to loosen rusted or stubborn bolts.

Remove the component: Carefully pull the old shock or strut out of place, being mindful not to damage any surrounding parts.

Inspect the mounting points: Before installing the new part, inspect the mounting points for rust or damage. Clean the area if needed.

Step 4: Install the New Shocks or Struts

Now that the old components are removed, it’s time to install the new parts.

Position the new shock or strut: Align the new component with the mounting points. Make sure it fits properly before securing it.

Tighten the bolts: Using a torque wrench, tighten the bolts to the manufacturer’s recommended specifications. Be sure not to overtighten, as this can cause damage.

Repeat for the other side: It’s essential to replace shocks or struts on both sides of the vehicle to ensure balanced handling and performance.

Step 5: Inspect and Replace Other Suspension Components (if necessary)

While you have access to the suspension system, check other components such as control arms, bushings, and ball joints. If these parts show signs of wear or damage, now is the time to replace them. Worn bushings, for example, can lead to vibrations and poor handling, while damaged control arms may affect the vehicle’s alignment.

Step 6: Reassemble and Lower the Vehicle

After replacing the necessary suspension parts, reinstall the wheels and tighten the lug nuts. Carefully lower the vehicle using the jack and remove the jack stands.

Step 7: Test Drive and Check Alignment

Once your suspension repair is complete, take the car for a test drive to ensure everything feels smooth and stable. Pay attention to the ride quality, steering responsiveness, and whether the vehicle pulls to one side. If you notice any alignment issues, it’s a good idea to get a professional alignment to ensure your tires are properly aligned with the suspension system.

When to Seek Professional Help

While many basic suspension repairs can be done at home, some issues are more complex and may require professional assistance. If you’re dealing with significant suspension damage or aren’t comfortable performing the repairs yourself, it’s best to consult a mechanic.

Here are some situations where professional help is recommended:

Major suspension damage: If your vehicle has been in an accident or shows signs of severe suspension failure, leave the repairs to a professional.

Complex components: Parts like coil springs or control arms may require specialized tools and expertise to replace safely.

Unusual noises or vibrations: If your suspension is making strange noises or you feel unusual vibrations after repair, it’s best to get a mechanic’s opinion to ensure everything is properly installed.

Tips for Maintaining Your Suspension System

To avoid frequent suspension repair, consider these tips for keeping your system in top shape:

Drive cautiously on rough roads: Avoid hitting potholes and speed bumps at high speeds, as these can strain your suspension.

Regularly check tire pressure: Properly inflated tires reduce stress on the suspension system.

Get regular alignments: Misaligned wheels can cause uneven tire wear and put extra pressure on suspension components.

Replace parts in pairs: Always replace shocks, struts, or other suspension parts in pairs to maintain balance and performance.

Conclusion: Keep Your Suspension in Top Shape with Regular Repairs

Your vehicle’s suspension system is key to both comfort and safety. By staying proactive with suspension repair and addressing issues early, you can prevent larger problems and ensure a smooth, stable ride. Whether you’re tackling basic repairs like replacing shocks or consulting a professional for more complex issues, maintaining your suspension will extend the life of your vehicle and keep you safe on the road.

[benzandjagzspecialistinc]

How to Repair Your Land Rover: A Step-by-Step Guide

Owning a Land Rover is an exciting experience, but like any vehicle, it occasionally requires repairs to keep it running smoothly. Whether you’re a seasoned DIY enthusiast or someone looking to save a little money on mechanic fees, knowing how to handle basic Land Rover repair tasks can save you both time and money. This guide will walk you through common issues and repairs, helping you maintain your Land Rover and prolong its life on the road.

Why Regular Land Rover Maintenance is Essential

Before diving into repairs, it’s important to understand why maintaining your Land Rover is crucial. Land Rovers are known for their rugged durability and off-road capabilities, but their complex systems require consistent attention. By learning basic Land Rover repair techniques, you can avoid bigger problems down the road and keep your vehicle performing at its best.

Tools You’ll Need for Land Rover Repairs

Before you start any repairs, make sure you have the right tools on hand. Some basic tools that are often used in Land Rover repair include:

Wrench sets (metric and imperial)

Socket sets

Torque wrench

Jack stands

Screwdrivers

Pliers

Diagnostic scanner

These tools will allow you to tackle a wide range of repairs on your Land Rover, whether you're addressing a simple issue like a blown fuse or something more complex like brake replacement.

Step 1: Diagnosing Common Land Rover Issues

The first step in any repair process is diagnosing the issue. Common problems in Land Rovers include electrical faults, suspension wear, brake system issues, and engine misfires. Using a diagnostic scanner can help identify error codes that pinpoint the root of the problem. Land Rover’s onboard computer system is sophisticated, so having a scanner that’s compatible with your model is crucial.

Common Warning Signs to Watch For:

Engine warning light: Could indicate an issue with the engine, transmission, or even exhaust system.

Unusual noises: Clicking, grinding, or knocking sounds can signal problems with the brakes, engine, or suspension.

Fluid leaks: Puddles of oil, coolant, or transmission fluid under your vehicle are signs of trouble.

Poor handling: If your Land Rover feels loose or sways while driving, it could be time to inspect the suspension.

Step 2: How to Repair Land Rover Brakes

Brakes are one of the most critical safety components in any vehicle, and Land Rovers are no exception. Over time, the brake pads and rotors wear down and need to be replaced. Here's a simple guide on how to perform this essential Land Rover repair:

Replacing Brake Pads and Rotors

Lift the vehicle: Using a jack, lift your Land Rover and secure it on jack stands.

Remove the wheel: Unscrew the lug nuts and remove the wheel to access the brake system.

Remove the brake caliper: Use a wrench to unscrew the caliper bolts, then slide the caliper off the rotor.

Replace the brake pads: Remove the old pads and insert the new ones. Make sure they are properly seated in the caliper.

Replace the rotor: If the rotor is worn or damaged, remove it by loosening the rotor screws. Install a new rotor if necessary.

Reassemble the brake system: Once everything is in place, reattach the caliper and bolt it securely.

Test your work: Before driving, pump the brake pedal a few times to ensure everything is working properly.

Step 3: Fixing Land Rover Suspension Issues

Land Rovers are designed to handle rough terrain, but this off-road capability can wear down the suspension over time. Common signs of suspension problems include a bumpy ride, uneven tire wear, and difficulty steering. Replacing worn suspension components like bushings, shocks, or struts can restore your Land Rover’s smooth handling.

How to Replace Shocks and Struts

Jack up the vehicle: Use your jack to lift the Land Rover and support it with jack stands.

Remove the old shock/strut: Locate the shock absorber or strut and remove the bolts securing it to the suspension. Be sure to note how the old part is installed.

Install the new shock/strut: Insert the new shock or strut in the same orientation as the old one. Tighten the bolts to the manufacturer’s recommended torque specifications.

Lower the vehicle and test: Once the new components are installed, lower the vehicle and take it for a test drive to ensure the suspension feels stable and smooth.

Step 4: Solving Land Rover Electrical Issues

Electrical faults are another common issue in Land Rovers, especially in older models. Problems like malfunctioning windows, faulty lights, or a dead battery can usually be traced back to electrical connections, fuses, or wiring.

Troubleshooting Electrical Problems

Check fuses: A blown fuse is often the simplest cause of electrical issues. Check the fuse box (located under the dashboard or hood) and replace any blown fuses with ones of the correct amperage.

Inspect wiring: Over time, wiring can become corroded or damaged. Inspect any visible wiring for wear or breaks, especially in high-stress areas like the engine bay.

Test the battery: A weak or dead battery can cause a range of electrical issues. Use a multimeter to test the voltage. If it's low, you may need to charge or replace the battery.

Step 5: Engine Maintenance and Repair

Your Land Rover’s engine is its powerhouse, and keeping it well-maintained is key to avoiding costly repairs. Common engine issues include misfires, overheating, and oil leaks.

Basic Engine Maintenance

Change the oil regularly: Use high-quality oil and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for oil change intervals.

Replace spark plugs: Worn spark plugs can cause misfires and poor fuel efficiency. Replace them as part of regular engine maintenance.

Inspect the cooling system: Overheating is a common issue in Land Rovers, so check the radiator, hoses, and coolant levels frequently.

Final Thoughts

Learning how to repair your Land Rover can be incredibly rewarding, saving you money on expensive mechanic bills while giving you greater control over your vehicle’s performance. Whether you’re replacing brake pads, fixing electrical issues, or handling engine repairs, these DIY tips can help you maintain your Land Rover with confidence. Remember, regular maintenance is the key to keeping your Land Rover running smoothly for years to come.

By following this guide, you’ll be better equipped to handle common Land Rover repairs, ensuring that your vehicle stays in top condition both on and off the road.

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