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#Local Grout Repair NY
johnnystonework · 2 years
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Improve your home design with local grout repair NY
Our local grout repair NY will not only revive your flooring but also maintain it. Count on our tile and grout repair Long Island NY and we guarantee you will remain 100% satisfied. We can help you get rid of damaged, dirty grout by providing custom yet affordable tile grout repair NY. We also offer pool grout repair NY so you can enjoy your pool time to the full.  
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janicecpitts · 6 years
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Tile Installation
Contents
Cement-based backer board
Porch builders builders warehouse kitchens
Quality floor tile
Prior cement tile
Tile requires a structurally-sound, sturdy foundation, and plywood alone is unsuitable. cement-based backer board stabilizes the plywood substrate and provides a flat, even surface for tile. For best …
Do not wet wash tile for at least five days after installation. This will allow the adhesive under the tile to dry and prevent excess moisture and cleaning agents …
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Learn about the benefits of big tile installation on I Hear Design with Crossville’s vice president of businesses development, Frank Douglas. Capra notes that technology has added a lot of great new o…
How to install the guaranteed to stick on tiles Smart Tiles. Save time and money on kitchen or bathroom backsplash. Install over existing tiles or painted wall.
Bentley Carpet Installation and Sales is a locally, family owned business that has been in business since 1982. It was founded by Betty Bentley and is currently being …
A Tile Installation Inc. 24-01 147th Street Whitestone, NY 11357. Contact Us: Phone:718-888-1953 Email:[email protected].
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Las Vegas—During the Surfaces 2011 trade show held at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas, Laticrete introduced a new adhesive designed specifically for the installation of glass and mosai…
Tile floor installation from The Home Depot is a perfect blend of quality, selection and affordability. Consider ceramic tile installation. Along with its classic beauty and superior durability, regular…
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Reviews on Tile Installation in San Jose, CA – Daniel Tile, Almaden Tile & Marble , Caleb’s New Grout, JLS Tile, 3 Brothers Handyman Services, San Jose Floor …
Porch Builders Builders Warehouse Kitchens The cafe, which counts Dan Jarvis and Dickie Bird amongst its regulars, is based in the town’s Tobacco Warehouse. And stepping through Home Improvement Springfield Mo porch builders builders warehouse kitchens The cafe, which counts Dan Jarvis and Dickie Bird amongst its regulars, is based in the town’s Tobacco Warehouse. And
Tile Master is a full-service Atlanta Bathroom remodeling and Tile installation company. Specializes in tile installation, plumbing, electrical, carpentry, repair, Travertine, ceramic, bath remodeler Atlanta, Alpharetta bathroom remodeling, gwinnett, Roswell, Lawrenceville, Dunwoody
Tile installation might seem a straightforward and simple job yet it needs expertise and years of DTLA Tile offers all kind of tile installation services in Los Angeles that include floor tiling and…
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Home Window Repair Durham Nc Porch Builders Builders Warehouse Kitchens The cafe, which counts Dan Jarvis and Dickie Bird amongst its regulars, is based in the town’s Tobacco Warehouse. And
Paul’s Professional Tile has been doing Tile Installation in Pinellas County for over 30 years. Give us a call for a free estimate. (727) 784-6916
Tile Installation: Backer Board Around a Bathtub. Tile Installation: How to Tile Over Existing Tile. You can lay new ceramic tile over old tile if you use the preparation methods we show you here.
These installation notes are basic guidelines, every project is different, so please consider consulting a professional contractor with prior cement tile installation …
From first steps to final fitting, allow Florida Tile to guide you through the tile installation process with compliance tips and tricks.
via Check This Out More Resources
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manuelclapid · 6 years
Text
Caulking Doesn’t Have to Be Hard and Building Lot Tips
This caulk mess could have been avoided with a grout sponge and pride. (C) Copyright 2018 Tim Carter
Caulking Doesn’t Have to Be Hard
QUESTION #1: Tim, my husband caulked a few things in the bathroom and made an enormous mess. The caulk is smeared and there are gaps. Can it be repaired? He had the best of intentions but didn’t seem to be concerned about the final appearance. How does one get a perfect bead of smooth caulk with no excess and no smearing? Angie C., Mt. Desert, ME
Have you seen smeared caulk like Angie now has in her bathroom? I see it all the time, especially when I travel. Frequently I want to take photographs of the botched workmanship in the restrooms in airports and interstate highway rest stops, but I dare not get out my camera as I fear being arrested as a creeper!
The good news is that crappy caulk jobs can be repaired with relative ease. You can purchase a variety of caulk-removal solvents that soften most caulks. With the caulk softened, you can scrape the goo away without damaging the nearby surfaces and finishes.
Be sure you read the label of the solvent to ensure it’s safe to use on the things the caulk is touching. If in doubt, do a small test in an out-of-the-way area to ensure the solvent doesn’t dull the finish, remove color, or otherwise damage the fixtures, flooring, or trim.
Creating a smooth professional caulk joint is extremely simple. The process starts with an excellent caulk gun. Cheap caulk guns provide little control over the amount of caulk that oozes from the tube as you squeeze the handle. Better caulk guns, that cost just a little more, give you great control as the push rod that presses the back of the caulk tube only advances a small amount as you squeeze the handle of the gun.
You also need to cut the tip of the caulk tube so the hole at the end of the tube is no bigger than 1/8 inch. The goal is to lay down a bead of caulk that is just enough to fill the gap allowing no excess to be removed. This technique only comes with lots of practice.
The easiest caulks to work with are ones that are water-based or can be cleaned up with water. I fill a 3.5-gallon bucket with warm water and have one of my special tile grout sponges handy. These sponges have no sharp edges or corners.
I apply the caulk to about 2 feet of the crack or gap. I then tool the caulk with my finger creating a concave appearance. If I applied too much caulk and excess starts to build upon my finger or begins to smear, I lift my finger off the caulk and wipe the excess off my fingertip farther down the crack or gap so no caulk is wasted.
The final step is to take the damp sponge will all excess water squeezed out, and slide it softly across the fresh caulk to remove any smears and to give it a very smooth appearance. Don’t press hard on the sponge while doing this step. Practice on a test crack to master the sponging technique.
I’ve created a page on my website for you that has caulk installation videos and other tips. Go to: caulk
Building Lot Tips
QUESTION #2: Tim, I’m starting to look at lots for a new home. I’ve got no clue as to what’s a good lot and what’s not. What tips can you share about this process? I’m fearful of making a costly mistake. Keith C., Syracuse, NY
Each week I do autopsies for homeowners who have problems at their homes. In many cases, the root cause of the problem is a bad building lot.
I have so many building lot articles on my website that I no doubt could assemble the information into a small book. There are so many things to consider, but here are a few of the major deal-breakers for me.
The size of the lot is important. Will you be able to fit the house and all other things like sheds, decks, patios, etc. you want inside the setback lines as defined in the local zoning code? Is the lot too steep for the house or will it cause driveway issues?
Are all the utilities you need available? If the lot is undeveloped, how hard and expensive is it to get electric to your home from the street? What about Internet access? Is it readily available and the speed you need available?
Compass direction can be critical. The back of my house has a huge deck on it and faces east. I like that so I don’t broil in the intense afternoon sun while on the deck. What about the soil? Is it thin requiring you to blast? Does the lot have great drainage?
I’ve got lots of FREE extra building lot tips for you at my website: buildinglot
Column 1272
The post Caulking Doesn’t Have to Be Hard and Building Lot Tips appeared first on Ask the Builder.
from Home https://www.askthebuilder.com/caulking-doesnt-have-to-be-hard-and-building-lot-tips/ via http://www.rssmix.com/
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andrewmawby · 6 years
Text
Caulking Doesn’t Have to Be Hard and Building Lot Tips
This caulk mess could have been avoided with a grout sponge and pride. (C) Copyright 2018 Tim Carter
Caulking Doesn’t Have to Be Hard
QUESTION #1: Tim, my husband caulked a few things in the bathroom and made an enormous mess. The caulk is smeared and there are gaps. Can it be repaired? He had the best of intentions but didn’t seem to be concerned about the final appearance. How does one get a perfect bead of smooth caulk with no excess and no smearing? Angie C., Mt. Desert, ME
Have you seen smeared caulk like Angie now has in her bathroom? I see it all the time, especially when I travel. Frequently I want to take photographs of the botched workmanship in the restrooms in airports and interstate highway rest stops, but I dare not get out my camera as I fear being arrested as a creeper!
The good news is that crappy caulk jobs can be repaired with relative ease. You can purchase a variety of caulk-removal solvents that soften most caulks. With the caulk softened, you can scrape the goo away without damaging the nearby surfaces and finishes.
Be sure you read the label of the solvent to ensure it’s safe to use on the things the caulk is touching. If in doubt, do a small test in an out-of-the-way area to ensure the solvent doesn’t dull the finish, remove color, or otherwise damage the fixtures, flooring, or trim.
Creating a smooth professional caulk joint is extremely simple. The process starts with an excellent caulk gun. Cheap caulk guns provide little control over the amount of caulk that oozes from the tube as you squeeze the handle. Better caulk guns, that cost just a little more, give you great control as the push rod that presses the back of the caulk tube only advances a small amount as you squeeze the handle of the gun.
You also need to cut the tip of the caulk tube so the hole at the end of the tube is no bigger than 1/8 inch. The goal is to lay down a bead of caulk that is just enough to fill the gap allowing no excess to be removed. This technique only comes with lots of practice.
The easiest caulks to work with are ones that are water-based or can be cleaned up with water. I fill a 3.5-gallon bucket with warm water and have one of my special tile grout sponges handy. These sponges have no sharp edges or corners.
I apply the caulk to about 2 feet of the crack or gap. I then tool the caulk with my finger creating a concave appearance. If I applied too much caulk and excess starts to build upon my finger or begins to smear, I lift my finger off the caulk and wipe the excess off my fingertip farther down the crack or gap so no caulk is wasted.
The final step is to take the damp sponge will all excess water squeezed out, and slide it softly across the fresh caulk to remove any smears and to give it a very smooth appearance. Don’t press hard on the sponge while doing this step. Practice on a test crack to master the sponging technique.
I’ve created a page on my website for you that has caulk installation videos and other tips. Go to: caulk
Building Lot Tips
QUESTION #2: Tim, I’m starting to look at lots for a new home. I’ve got no clue as to what’s a good lot and what’s not. What tips can you share about this process? I’m fearful of making a costly mistake. Keith C., Syracuse, NY
Each week I do autopsies for homeowners who have problems at their homes. In many cases, the root cause of the problem is a bad building lot.
I have so many building lot articles on my website that I no doubt could assemble the information into a small book. There are so many things to consider, but here are a few of the major deal-breakers for me.
The size of the lot is important. Will you be able to fit the house and all other things like sheds, decks, patios, etc. you want inside the setback lines as defined in the local zoning code? Is the lot too steep for the house or will it cause driveway issues?
Are all the utilities you need available? If the lot is undeveloped, how hard and expensive is it to get electric to your home from the street? What about Internet access? Is it readily available and the speed you need available?
Compass direction can be critical. The back of my house has a huge deck on it and faces east. I like that so I don’t broil in the intense afternoon sun while on the deck. What about the soil? Is it thin requiring you to blast? Does the lot have great drainage?
I’ve got lots of FREE extra building lot tips for you at my website: buildinglot
Column 1272
The post Caulking Doesn’t Have to Be Hard and Building Lot Tips appeared first on Ask the Builder.
from builders feed https://www.askthebuilder.com/caulking-doesnt-have-to-be-hard-and-building-lot-tips/ via http://www.rssmix.com/
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allardjeremyballard · 6 years
Text
Caulking Doesn’t Have to Be Hard and Building Lot Tips
This caulk mess could have been avoided with a grout sponge and pride. (C) Copyright 2018 Tim Carter
Caulking Doesn’t Have to Be Hard
QUESTION #1: Tim, my husband caulked a few things in the bathroom and made an enormous mess. The caulk is smeared and there are gaps. Can it be repaired? He had the best of intentions but didn’t seem to be concerned about the final appearance. How does one get a perfect bead of smooth caulk with no excess and no smearing? Angie C., Mt. Desert, ME
Have you seen smeared caulk like Angie now has in her bathroom? I see it all the time, especially when I travel. Frequently I want to take photographs of the botched workmanship in the restrooms in airports and interstate highway rest stops, but I dare not get out my camera as I fear being arrested as a creeper!
The good news is that crappy caulk jobs can be repaired with relative ease. You can purchase a variety of caulk-removal solvents that soften most caulks. With the caulk softened, you can scrape the goo away without damaging the nearby surfaces and finishes.
Be sure you read the label of the solvent to ensure it’s safe to use on the things the caulk is touching. If in doubt, do a small test in an out-of-the-way area to ensure the solvent doesn’t dull the finish, remove color, or otherwise damage the fixtures, flooring, or trim.
Creating a smooth professional caulk joint is extremely simple. The process starts with an excellent caulk gun. Cheap caulk guns provide little control over the amount of caulk that oozes from the tube as you squeeze the handle. Better caulk guns, that cost just a little more, give you great control as the push rod that presses the back of the caulk tube only advances a small amount as you squeeze the handle of the gun.
You also need to cut the tip of the caulk tube so the hole at the end of the tube is no bigger than 1/8 inch. The goal is to lay down a bead of caulk that is just enough to fill the gap allowing no excess to be removed. This technique only comes with lots of practice.
The easiest caulks to work with are ones that are water-based or can be cleaned up with water. I fill a 3.5-gallon bucket with warm water and have one of my special tile grout sponges handy. These sponges have no sharp edges or corners.
I apply the caulk to about 2 feet of the crack or gap. I then tool the caulk with my finger creating a concave appearance. If I applied too much caulk and excess starts to build upon my finger or begins to smear, I lift my finger off the caulk and wipe the excess off my fingertip farther down the crack or gap so no caulk is wasted.
The final step is to take the damp sponge will all excess water squeezed out, and slide it softly across the fresh caulk to remove any smears and to give it a very smooth appearance. Don’t press hard on the sponge while doing this step. Practice on a test crack to master the sponging technique.
I’ve created a page on my website for you that has caulk installation videos and other tips. Go to: caulk
Building Lot Tips
QUESTION #2: Tim, I’m starting to look at lots for a new home. I’ve got no clue as to what’s a good lot and what’s not. What tips can you share about this process? I’m fearful of making a costly mistake. Keith C., Syracuse, NY
Each week I do autopsies for homeowners who have problems at their homes. In many cases, the root cause of the problem is a bad building lot.
I have so many building lot articles on my website that I no doubt could assemble the information into a small book. There are so many things to consider, but here are a few of the major deal-breakers for me.
The size of the lot is important. Will you be able to fit the house and all other things like sheds, decks, patios, etc. you want inside the setback lines as defined in the local zoning code? Is the lot too steep for the house or will it cause driveway issues?
Are all the utilities you need available? If the lot is undeveloped, how hard and expensive is it to get electric to your home from the street? What about Internet access? Is it readily available and the speed you need available?
Compass direction can be critical. The back of my house has a huge deck on it and faces east. I like that so I don’t broil in the intense afternoon sun while on the deck. What about the soil? Is it thin requiring you to blast? Does the lot have great drainage?
I’ve got lots of FREE extra building lot tips for you at my website: buildinglot
Column 1272
The post Caulking Doesn’t Have to Be Hard and Building Lot Tips appeared first on Ask the Builder.
from RSSMix.com Mix ID 8247360 https://www.askthebuilder.com/caulking-doesnt-have-to-be-hard-and-building-lot-tips/ via http://www.rssmix.com/
0 notes
emoryjrice71 · 6 years
Text
Caulking Doesn’t Have to Be Hard and Building Lot Tips
This caulk mess could have been avoided with a grout sponge and pride. (C) Copyright 2018 Tim Carter
Caulking Doesn’t Have to Be Hard
QUESTION #1: Tim, my husband caulked a few things in the bathroom and made an enormous mess. The caulk is smeared and there are gaps. Can it be repaired? He had the best of intentions but didn’t seem to be concerned about the final appearance. How does one get a perfect bead of smooth caulk with no excess and no smearing? Angie C., Mt. Desert, ME
Have you seen smeared caulk like Angie now has in her bathroom? I see it all the time, especially when I travel. Frequently I want to take photographs of the botched workmanship in the restrooms in airports and interstate highway rest stops, but I dare not get out my camera as I fear being arrested as a creeper!
The good news is that crappy caulk jobs can be repaired with relative ease. You can purchase a variety of caulk-removal solvents that soften most caulks. With the caulk softened, you can scrape the goo away without damaging the nearby surfaces and finishes.
Be sure you read the label of the solvent to ensure it’s safe to use on the things the caulk is touching. If in doubt, do a small test in an out-of-the-way area to ensure the solvent doesn’t dull the finish, remove color, or otherwise damage the fixtures, flooring, or trim.
Creating a smooth professional caulk joint is extremely simple. The process starts with an excellent caulk gun. Cheap caulk guns provide little control over the amount of caulk that oozes from the tube as you squeeze the handle. Better caulk guns, that cost just a little more, give you great control as the push rod that presses the back of the caulk tube only advances a small amount as you squeeze the handle of the gun.
You also need to cut the tip of the caulk tube so the hole at the end of the tube is no bigger than 1/8 inch. The goal is to lay down a bead of caulk that is just enough to fill the gap allowing no excess to be removed. This technique only comes with lots of practice.
The easiest caulks to work with are ones that are water-based or can be cleaned up with water. I fill a 3.5-gallon bucket with warm water and have one of my special tile grout sponges handy. These sponges have no sharp edges or corners.
I apply the caulk to about 2 feet of the crack or gap. I then tool the caulk with my finger creating a concave appearance. If I applied too much caulk and excess starts to build upon my finger or begins to smear, I lift my finger off the caulk and wipe the excess off my fingertip farther down the crack or gap so no caulk is wasted.
The final step is to take the damp sponge will all excess water squeezed out, and slide it softly across the fresh caulk to remove any smears and to give it a very smooth appearance. Don’t press hard on the sponge while doing this step. Practice on a test crack to master the sponging technique.
I’ve created a page on my website for you that has caulk installation videos and other tips. Go to: caulk
Building Lot Tips
QUESTION #2: Tim, I’m starting to look at lots for a new home. I’ve got no clue as to what’s a good lot and what’s not. What tips can you share about this process? I’m fearful of making a costly mistake. Keith C., Syracuse, NY
Each week I do autopsies for homeowners who have problems at their homes. In many cases, the root cause of the problem is a bad building lot.
I have so many building lot articles on my website that I no doubt could assemble the information into a small book. There are so many things to consider, but here are a few of the major deal-breakers for me.
The size of the lot is important. Will you be able to fit the house and all other things like sheds, decks, patios, etc. you want inside the setback lines as defined in the local zoning code? Is the lot too steep for the house or will it cause driveway issues?
Are all the utilities you need available? If the lot is undeveloped, how hard and expensive is it to get electric to your home from the street? What about Internet access? Is it readily available and the speed you need available?
Compass direction can be critical. The back of my house has a huge deck on it and faces east. I like that so I don’t broil in the intense afternoon sun while on the deck. What about the soil? Is it thin requiring you to blast? Does the lot have great drainage?
I’ve got lots of FREE extra building lot tips for you at my website: buildinglot
Column 1272
The post Caulking Doesn’t Have to Be Hard and Building Lot Tips appeared first on Ask the Builder.
0 notes
manuelclapid · 6 years
Text
Caulking Doesn’t Have to Be Hard and Building Lot Tips
This caulk mess could have been avoided with a grout sponge and pride. (C) Copyright 2018 Tim Carter
Caulking Doesn’t Have to Be Hard
QUESTION #1: Tim, my husband caulked a few things in the bathroom and made an enormous mess. The caulk is smeared and there are gaps. Can it be repaired? He had the best of intentions but didn’t seem to be concerned about the final appearance. How does one get a perfect bead of smooth caulk with no excess and no smearing? Angie C., Mt. Desert, ME
Have you seen smeared caulk like Angie now has in her bathroom? I see it all the time, especially when I travel. Frequently I want to take photographs of the botched workmanship in the restrooms in airports and interstate highway rest stops, but I dare not get out my camera as I fear being arrested as a creeper!
The good news is that crappy caulk jobs can be repaired with relative ease. You can purchase a variety of caulk-removal solvents that soften most caulks. With the caulk softened, you can scrape the goo away without damaging the nearby surfaces and finishes.
Be sure you read the label of the solvent to ensure it’s safe to use on the things the caulk is touching. If in doubt, do a small test in an out-of-the-way area to ensure the solvent doesn’t dull the finish, remove color, or otherwise damage the fixtures, flooring, or trim.
Creating a smooth professional caulk joint is extremely simple. The process starts with an excellent caulk gun. Cheap caulk guns provide little control over the amount of caulk that oozes from the tube as you squeeze the handle. Better caulk guns, that cost just a little more, give you great control as the push rod that presses the back of the caulk tube only advances a small amount as you squeeze the handle of the gun.
You also need to cut the tip of the caulk tube so the hole at the end of the tube is no bigger than 1/8 inch. The goal is to lay down a bead of caulk that is just enough to fill the gap allowing no excess to be removed. This technique only comes with lots of practice.
The easiest caulks to work with are ones that are water-based or can be cleaned up with water. I fill a 3.5-gallon bucket with warm water and have one of my special tile grout sponges handy. These sponges have no sharp edges or corners.
I apply the caulk to about 2 feet of the crack or gap. I then tool the caulk with my finger creating a concave appearance. If I applied too much caulk and excess starts to build upon my finger or begins to smear, I lift my finger off the caulk and wipe the excess off my fingertip farther down the crack or gap so no caulk is wasted.
The final step is to take the damp sponge will all excess water squeezed out, and slide it softly across the fresh caulk to remove any smears and to give it a very smooth appearance. Don’t press hard on the sponge while doing this step. Practice on a test crack to master the sponging technique.
I’ve created a page on my website for you that has caulk installation videos and other tips. Go to: caulk
Building Lot Tips
QUESTION #2: Tim, I’m starting to look at lots for a new home. I’ve got no clue as to what’s a good lot and what’s not. What tips can you share about this process? I’m fearful of making a costly mistake. Keith C., Syracuse, NY
Each week I do autopsies for homeowners who have problems at their homes. In many cases, the root cause of the problem is a bad building lot.
I have so many building lot articles on my website that I no doubt could assemble the information into a small book. There are so many things to consider, but here are a few of the major deal-breakers for me.
The size of the lot is important. Will you be able to fit the house and all other things like sheds, decks, patios, etc. you want inside the setback lines as defined in the local zoning code? Is the lot too steep for the house or will it cause driveway issues?
Are all the utilities you need available? If the lot is undeveloped, how hard and expensive is it to get electric to your home from the street? What about Internet access? Is it readily available and the speed you need available?
Compass direction can be critical. The back of my house has a huge deck on it and faces east. I like that so I don’t broil in the intense afternoon sun while on the deck. What about the soil? Is it thin requiring you to blast? Does the lot have great drainage?
I’ve got lots of FREE extra building lot tips for you at my website: buildinglot
Column 1272
The post Caulking Doesn’t Have to Be Hard and Building Lot Tips appeared first on Ask the Builder.
from Home https://www.askthebuilder.com/caulking-doesnt-have-to-be-hard-and-building-lot-tips/ via http://www.rssmix.com/
0 notes
andrewmawby · 6 years
Text
Caulking Doesn’t Have to Be Hard and Building Lot Tips
This caulk mess could have been avoided with a grout sponge and pride. (C) Copyright 2018 Tim Carter
Caulking Doesn’t Have to Be Hard
QUESTION #1: Tim, my husband caulked a few things in the bathroom and made an enormous mess. The caulk is smeared and there are gaps. Can it be repaired? He had the best of intentions but didn’t seem to be concerned about the final appearance. How does one get a perfect bead of smooth caulk with no excess and no smearing? Angie C., Mt. Desert, ME
Have you seen smeared caulk like Angie now has in her bathroom? I see it all the time, especially when I travel. Frequently I want to take photographs of the botched workmanship in the restrooms in airports and interstate highway rest stops, but I dare not get out my camera as I fear being arrested as a creeper!
The good news is that crappy caulk jobs can be repaired with relative ease. You can purchase a variety of caulk-removal solvents that soften most caulks. With the caulk softened, you can scrape the goo away without damaging the nearby surfaces and finishes.
Be sure you read the label of the solvent to ensure it’s safe to use on the things the caulk is touching. If in doubt, do a small test in an out-of-the-way area to ensure the solvent doesn’t dull the finish, remove color, or otherwise damage the fixtures, flooring, or trim.
Creating a smooth professional caulk joint is extremely simple. The process starts with an excellent caulk gun. Cheap caulk guns provide little control over the amount of caulk that oozes from the tube as you squeeze the handle. Better caulk guns, that cost just a little more, give you great control as the push rod that presses the back of the caulk tube only advances a small amount as you squeeze the handle of the gun.
You also need to cut the tip of the caulk tube so the hole at the end of the tube is no bigger than 1/8 inch. The goal is to lay down a bead of caulk that is just enough to fill the gap allowing no excess to be removed. This technique only comes with lots of practice.
The easiest caulks to work with are ones that are water-based or can be cleaned up with water. I fill a 3.5-gallon bucket with warm water and have one of my special tile grout sponges handy. These sponges have no sharp edges or corners.
I apply the caulk to about 2 feet of the crack or gap. I then tool the caulk with my finger creating a concave appearance. If I applied too much caulk and excess starts to build upon my finger or begins to smear, I lift my finger off the caulk and wipe the excess off my fingertip farther down the crack or gap so no caulk is wasted.
The final step is to take the damp sponge will all excess water squeezed out, and slide it softly across the fresh caulk to remove any smears and to give it a very smooth appearance. Don’t press hard on the sponge while doing this step. Practice on a test crack to master the sponging technique.
I’ve created a page on my website for you that has caulk installation videos and other tips. Go to: caulk
Building Lot Tips
QUESTION #2: Tim, I’m starting to look at lots for a new home. I’ve got no clue as to what’s a good lot and what’s not. What tips can you share about this process? I’m fearful of making a costly mistake. Keith C., Syracuse, NY
Each week I do autopsies for homeowners who have problems at their homes. In many cases, the root cause of the problem is a bad building lot.
I have so many building lot articles on my website that I no doubt could assemble the information into a small book. There are so many things to consider, but here are a few of the major deal-breakers for me.
The size of the lot is important. Will you be able to fit the house and all other things like sheds, decks, patios, etc. you want inside the setback lines as defined in the local zoning code? Is the lot too steep for the house or will it cause driveway issues?
Are all the utilities you need available? If the lot is undeveloped, how hard and expensive is it to get electric to your home from the street? What about Internet access? Is it readily available and the speed you need available?
Compass direction can be critical. The back of my house has a huge deck on it and faces east. I like that so I don’t broil in the intense afternoon sun while on the deck. What about the soil? Is it thin requiring you to blast? Does the lot have great drainage?
I’ve got lots of FREE extra building lot tips for you at my website: buildinglot
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