#Leonard Logsdail
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https://www.permanentstyle.com/2024/05/new-york-a-sartorial-city-guide.html
New York: A menswear shopping guide
#Alden#blue in green#Buck Mason#colbo#Crowley Vintage#Front General#Leffot#Leonard Logsdail#no man walks alone#Paul Stuart#standard and strange#stella dallas#Stoffa#The armoury#Wythe
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The Difference Between a $400 and $8,000 Suit
Buzzfeed is known for their formulaic, clickbait content, but this video comparing $400 suits to $8,000 suits is ... actually pretty good?
To be sure, there’s a lot of marketing fluff here. And the two hosts don’t really get into the nitty gritty details of what separates ready-to-wear to made-to-measure to bespoke. (The answer is more complicated than bespoke giving you a custom fit, especially with the massive range in quality within each of these categories). That said, they’ve picked good companies to cover a range of options, and even with the fancy videography at each store, you can see the difference in fit.
Suitsupply, a brand we often recommend here for entry-level suits, does exceptionally well in the value category. If you have less than $1,000 to spend on a suit, this should be your first stop. Articles of Style is one of the many online companies nowadays offering made-to-measure, and while we’re generally skeptical of online custom tailoring for anything beyond dress shirts, their system of giving customers try-on garments helps take out some of the uncertainty.
Leonard Logsdail is clearly the best of the bunch. You can see how well the jacket fits -- no puckering or wrinkling. Logsdail gave the host a jacket with slightly extended shoulders, fuller chest, and shaped back, which help give the illusion of a more athletic figure. The pants, which are the hardest part to get right, actually fall cleanly in the back (note the wrinkles behind the legs on the other two).
You can also see the payoff when you stick to a more classic silhouette -- a buttoning point that hits your waist, a jacket that ends where it should, and trousers that neither fit too tight nor sit too low. It can be hard to buy suits like that off-the-rack because most people want fashion forward silhouettes (which look better on models than they do the average Joe).
Bespoke suits don’t have to cost $8,000. Entry-level price here in the US is about $3,000, depending on where you go. Still, that’s a lot of money for a suit and not all good tailors are the same (you may not like some tailor’s particular style). It’s hard to get ready-to-wear suits to look as good as bespoke, but it’s helpful to train your eye for things such as fit and silhouette, so you know where to compromise. Having a good eye also helps you actually get a suit that’s right for you, rather than buy things based on prestige or marketing mumbo jumbo.
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To celebrate Kith’s 10th anniversary, owner Ronnie Fieg reprises his ongoing partnership with New Balance on the newly-introduced RC 1300 model. This new sneaker serves as an updated version of Fieg’s very first project with New Balance as it represents where Kith has been and where the brand is headed.
The RC 1300 is reimagined in Kith’s signature color palette of canvas and dusty mauve tones. These colorways are seen across a mesh and pigskin suede upper with original 1300 color-blocking and construction. The side panels feature the classic ‘N’ logo layer with Kith’s monogram debossing, while a Pegasus logo, a nod to the brand’s ten years, is embroidered on the lateral toe of the left shoe, with ‘NB’ branding on the right.
Continuing with original 1300 design elements, this silhouette features a revamped ENCAP Reveal sole unit, which highlights the model’s progression since the 1980s. Alongside, a Vibram outsole is added for increased traction and a rugged look. Additional co-branding is seen on the tongue and insole, depicting Kith’s Pegasus graphic alongside an ‘NB’ branding while the heel features and italicized Kith debossing on the left shoe, with Fieg on the right. Lastly, special packaging is comprised of a tri-color box with co-branding at the center.
The campaign for this partnership highlights diverse masters of their craft across a range of professions. These people include actor Michael Madsen, musician Ryan Leslie, chef Nobu Matsuhisa, artist Daniel Arsham, designer Martine Ali, bespoke tailor Leonard Logsdail, ceramist Lucy Park, and NYC chess aficionado Anthony Williams.
The Ronnie Fieg for New Balance RC 1300, which retails for $165, is now available at all Kith shops and kith.com.
#Ronnie Fieg for New Balance RC 1300#vibram#Sneakers#sneaker blog#sneakerhead community#massachusetts footwear brands#streetwear blog
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GET THE STRAP
18 OCTOBER 2018
1. Vintage Sullivan & Woolley Black Velvet Smoking Jacket
2. Leonard Logsdail Bespoke Green Corduroy Pants
3. Suitsupply Green Linen Double Breasted Jacket
4. Fear of God x Misfits Cutoff Tee Shirt
5. Chanel Bottle Green Velvet Quilted Smoking Loafers
6. Vor Germany White Low Top Trainers
7. Yeezy Frozen Yellow Boost 350
8. Sartoria Formosa Hardy Minnis Tweed Jacket
9. Ann Demeulemeester Nappa Leather Trucker Jacket
10. 10Sei0Otto Black Shearling Asymmetrical Coat
NOW LIVE
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Last week I spoke on a panel about “The Future of Custom Clothing” hosted by the @ctdausa and our friends @gladsonltd in NYC. • Here are some snippets. • “It was a provocative discussion on the future of custom clothing in America at the CTDA show in New York last week, as top custom clothing experts discussed the challenges and opportunities of this business. I had the privilege of moderating; the panelists were: • Leonard Logsdail – Owner and Bespoke Tailor, Leonard Logsdail • Dara Lamb – Designer and Owner, Dara Lamb Atelier • Angel Ramos – Chief Creative Officer, 18th Amendment • Peter Roberti – Owner, Adrian Jules Retail • Trevor Shimpfky – Vice President, Paul Stuart • Emily Reuter – Director of Custom Clothing, Trunk Club • Dan Trepanier – CEO and Creative Director, Articles of Style • Among the most heated topics: Is the entry of affordable made-to-measure clothing a good or bad thing for the industry? Should custom clothiers ask for references? Does custom need to be about suits or is there potential in custom casual? How important is social media to promote custom? Are consumers more inspired by high-impact visuals or by educational storytelling? How do clothiers retain product integrity with today’s race to the bottom in price?” • ✂️🇺🇸💯✂️🇺🇸💯✂️🇺🇸💯 • #FutureCustom #Panel #Discussion #Custom #CustomClothing #Tailoring #Bespoke #MadeToMeasure #Menswear #MTM #Suit #MadeinAmerica #ArticlesofStyle (at Conrad New York Midtown) https://www.instagram.com/p/B76gh1jlRxq/?igshid=17t88f8bjliij
#futurecustom#panel#discussion#custom#customclothing#tailoring#bespoke#madetomeasure#menswear#mtm#suit#madeinamerica#articlesofstyle
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BIG GUYS! LEONARD LOGSDAIL nyc london GREEN TWEED COAT 48 us 60 eu
http://dlvr.it/QxxWK6
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Tags: Leonard Logsdail
3134 points, 98 comments.
source http://9gag.com/gag/aN1q0Zw
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Trump picks camera-proven Kudlow as top economic aide
New Post has been published on https://goo.gl/6Z7wu3
Trump picks camera-proven Kudlow as top economic aide
WASHINGTON/March 14, 2018 (AP)(STL.News) — President Donald Trump has chosen Larry Kudlow to be his top economic aide, elevating the influence of a longtime fixture on the CNBC business news network who previously served in the Reagan administration and has emerged as a leading evangelist for tax cuts and a smaller government.
Kudlow told The Associated Press on Wednesday that he has accepted the offer, saying the U.S. economy is poised to take off after Trump signed $1.5 trillion worth of tax cuts into law.
“The economy is starting to roar and we’re going to get more of that,” he said.
Kudlow will join an administration in the middle of a tumultuous remodeling as a wave of White House staffers and top officials have departed in recent weeks. Trump on Tuesday dumped his secretary of state, former Exxon Mobil CEO Rex Tillerson.
The famously pinstripe-suited Kudlow would succeed Gary Cohn, a former Goldman Sachs executive who is leaving the post in a dispute over Trump’s decision to impose tariffs on imported steel and aluminum.
With Trump’s tax cuts already being implemented, Kudlow would be advising a president who appears increasingly determined to tax foreign imports — a policy Kudlow personally opposes. Kudlow said he is “in accord” with Trump’s agenda and his team at the White House would help implement the policies set by the president.
Trump has promised to reduce the trade imbalance with China and rewrite the North American Free Trade Agreement with Canada and Mexico. Kudlow declined to say what advice he would give the president on trade issues, saying instead that Trump is “a very good negotiator.”
Kudlow, 70, has informally advised the Trump administration in the past and he has spoken with the president “at some length in recent days,” so he is ready “to hit the ground running.”
Kudlow told CNBC on Wednesday that he will be going to Washington on Thursday to meet with Trump. White House spokeswoman Sarah Huckabee Sanders said the administration is preparing for an orderly transition and “will keep everyone posted” on when Kudlow officially assumes the job.
Friends and colleagues say Kudlow possesses two critical attributes prized by the president: He is a bluntly spoken debater and is resolutely loyal.
“He’s a very sensitive man and a very logical man, which is exactly what Trump needs,” said Arthur Laffer, a well-known economist and longtime friend of Kudlow.
The two men and their wives used to celebrate New Year’s Eve together outside San Diego, where Laffer lived at the time. In the Reagan administration, Kudlow worked in the White House budget office and Laffer served on an economic policy advisory board. Both built their economic visions around the notion that tax cuts are critical for maximizing economic growth, a principle at the heart of the $1.5 trillion tax reduction Trump signed into law late last year.
In 1987, Kudlow moved to Wall Street and, though he never completed a master’s program in economics and policy at Princeton University, served as chief economist at Bear Stearns. He left that position in the early 1990s to treat an addiction to alcohol and drugs, after which he worked at Laffer’s research and consulting firm.
Kudlow soon settled comfortably into the world of political and economic punditry, working at the conservative National Review magazine and ultimately becoming a host of CNBC shows beginning in 2001. He has remained a contributor to CNBC and a colleague and friend for many at the network. Indeed, among the first to report on Kudlow’s possible move to the White House was Jim Cramer, the stock market guru and his former co-host on “Kudlow & Cramer.” It was on CNBC that Kudlow gained a high-profile platform for explaining, defending and — at times — faulting Trump’s economic agenda.
Kudlow channeled his push for lower taxes into a 2016 book he co-wrote, in which he argued that President John F. Kennedy’s tax cuts had boosted economic growth. The book, “JFK and the Reagan Revolution,” asserted that Reagan’s 1980s tax cuts followed the same template. When Trump’s own tax cuts ran into resistance over the higher budget deficits that would result, Kudlow downplayed the risks of debt. He argued on CNBC that Reagan ran even higher deficits to finance tax cuts and military spending — a formula that Kudlow contends helped accelerate growth.
Kudlow has, at times, been overly optimistic — if not outright mistaken — about what Republican administrations can achieve for the economy. He declared in a December 2007 column for National Review that George W. Bush’s presidency was ushering in a new golden era.
“There’s no recession coming,” Kudlow wrote. “It’s not going to happen.”
Economists later concluded that the Great Recession and the financial meltdown it triggered began the month that column was published.
Laffer described Kudlow as someone who would be inclined to offer “unvarnished” advice to the president on the appropriate path for economic policy.
“And if by chance, he doesn’t convince the president of something, he will be a loyal employee,” Laffer said. “He stays loyal even if the decision goes against him.”
Kudlow has shown himself willing to embrace personal transformations. He converted from Judaism to Catholicism, according to a 2000 interview with the religious magazine Crisis. After graduating as a history major from the University of Rochester in 1969, he worked on Democratic campaigns in New York. But he evolved into a committed Republican who considered entering the 2016 race to challenge Sen. Richard Blumenthal, a Connecticut Democrat.
Jared Bernstein, who was an economic adviser to Vice President Joe Biden during Barack Obama’s presidency, said he’s been debating Kudlow from the opposite side of the ideological fence for decades and still likes him. Bernstein said he has never managed to convince Kudlow that that tax cuts that he has zealously championed have failed to deliver the promised growth, a view shared by many academic economists. But Kudlow understands trade, the Federal Reserve, employment, inflation and the financial markets, Bernstein said.
“And, at least on those issues, he listens,” said Bernstein, a senior fellow at the Center on Budget and Policy Priorities, a liberal think tank.
For a president who pays close attention to image and wants advisers who look every inch the part, Kudlow seems to fit the role of high-powered presidential aide. Customarily attired in narrow-lapelled suits, Kudlow has relied on the same Savile Row-trained, New York-based tailor, Leonard Logsdail, for 26 years.
Logsdail said Kudlow still wears some of the first suits he made for him.
“He does take care of them,” the tailor said.
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Associated Press writers Catherine Lucey and Zeke Miller contributed to this story.
By JOSH BOAK and KEN THOMAS, AP Writers, By Associated Press – published on STL.News by St. Louis Media, LLC (Z.S)
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#2000 interview with the religious magazine Crisis#Former Exxon Mobil CEO Rex Tillerson#Top economic aide#Trump picks camera proven Kudlow
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With my friend, Tailor Leonard Logsdail and our mutual client, Richard Casavechia, in Len’s atelier today. (at New York, New York)
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https://www.permanentstyle.com/2023/04/the-history-of-new-york-bespoke-tailoring-an-introduction-with-bruce-and-alan.html
The history of New York bespoke tailoring: An introduction with Bruce and Alan
#Bill Fioravanti#Dunhill Tailors#Henry Stewart#Leonard Logsdail#Morty Sills#Piero Dimitri#Roland Meledandri
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Gift in My Hands: Leonard Logsdail’s Story
If you’re not familiar with the name Leonard Logsdail, you’re sure to be familiar with his work. The NYC-based bespoke tailor has made clothes for films such as The Wolf of Wall Street, The Great Gatsby, The Good Shepherd, Frost/ Nixon, and my favorite, American Gangster (see this unique suit on Denzel Washington, which is cut with a horizontal peak lapel style that some British tailors call a “sidewalker”). He’s also the subject of this new film, Gift in My Hands. A fun mini-documentary on one of the best bespoke tailors in the world.
For more of Logsdail, check this clip from the second season of our web series, where Leonard talks with Jesse about what goes into making a suit.
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A new article is now online here at timelessman.com.au. The second fitting of the bespoke sport coat with Leonard Logsdail in New York, with Bruce Boyer joining us.
#leonard logsdail#leonardlogsdailbespoke#bespokenewyork#bespoketailoring#handmadesuit#bruceboyer#gbruceboyer#dugdalebrothers
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Leonard Logsdail
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THE CLOSER
Guys, its been a great year. Lots and lots (and lots) of auctions launched - here tonight we launched just moments ago the last set of auctions to end in 2014. We are going out with a bang for both men and women's! Tonights top ten:
1. Vintage 1997 Yohji Yamamoto duster coat
2. Leonard Logsdail bespoke double breasted suit
3. Ermenegildo Zegna 15 milmil 15 houndstooth jacket (one of about 8)
4. Ralph Lauren Purple Label double faced cashmere sweater
5. William Lockie 100% camelhair shawl collar cardigan
6. Chan Luu sterling silver gold plated beaded necklace
7. Pigskin briefcase
8. Louis Vuitton forest green Epi leather duffel bag
9. Ermenegildo Zegna 100% Cashmere lined leather coat
10. Chanel 2.55 classic denim bag
NOW LIVE
#menswear#Yohji Yamamoto#womens fashion#leonard logsdail#ermenegildo zegna#Ralph Lauren Purple Label#william lockie#chan luu#louis vuitton#chanel
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Leonard Logsdail fitting over Skype.
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