#Korčula summer events
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Korčula Island Wine Festival
Nestled in the heart of Croatia’s Dalmatian coast, Korčula Island is renowned for its rich cultural heritage, stunning landscapes, and centuries-old wine tradition. Every summer, the island hosts the Korčula Island Wine Festival, a multi-day event that celebrates the island’s deep connection to viticulture. This festival offers locals and visitors alike the opportunity to sample some of Croatia’s…
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summer journals, 2023 🪡:
july 30: madrid
[…] These are the years of flux
july 17: marseille
if i write my diaries ever so neatly (calendaric-like) i would lose the gist, the cosmic stuff, the matter which remains mysterious and expressive and thus serves me well and true to write. i cannot raze the forest for the sake of order! yes there are many interesting things happening right now but they are even more interesting when i distort them into impossible shapes so they cascade into the realm of fiction
june 28: madrid
My locomotions betrayed me. In truth there was fickleness in every traveler, an inability to accept things as they are, a habit to run from ourselves. However genuine our amorousness (towards persons, places) a casualness persisted —too casual, I thought.
Whether these askew, detached relations with the world were right or wrong was irrelevant. It was not a matter of discussion among travelers. One either resisted or caved to them.
june 23: madrid
In the scorching heat (above 90 degrees) he said: “life is finally what one supposes it to be —eventful.”
It is the second night of summer.
june 10: porto
rebel against the I — if ever the first person singular an I beyond my self […]
june 1st: island of korčula
finally have time!
this summer i must work. write
write
write!
may 29: mostar
Bosnia. The sun bleaches the mountains, making the rocks curl. The Neretva dazzles, a river of turquoise opalescence. It swells the veins of this verdant countryside.
I see mosques, and gas stations, and strange, brutalist, Yugoslavian buildings from fifty years before. I see the carcasses of houses hollowed by the weeds. Most walls carry bullet holes.
It leaves a strange taste in the tongue how beautiful/indifferent nature can be in the face of human cruelty.
The bus is unbearably hot. As we approach Croatia, grey streaks the skies: rain will soon plummet. The air pressure drops. The humidity is vaporous. I can picture the mercury rising inside all the barometers.
may 5: extremadura, hours after leaving lisbon
Badajoz; a small town with an alcazaba and a Roman bridge over a river where rowers glide in the May light.
All small towns are alike, when one comes from the periphery: with the exception that one’s own retains the intensity of feeling —elation, desperation, etcetera. Whereas all others are impersonal, distant, insignificant, and to envision one’s life there is an exercise in futility. It escapes the imagination.
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Three stories: intense heat waves and global warming effects on our food supply
Four stories that I’ve extracted from InsideClimate News, telling us the intense heat waves in Europe and Greenland, and in the Pacific Northwest, are affecting our global food supply.
First, an article entitled, “Dying Orchards, Missing Fish as Climate Change Fueled Europe’s Record Heat” focuses on an almond orchard and a sardine fisherman in Croatia. Second, an article entitled, “Greenland's Melting: Heat Waves Are Changing the Landscape Before Their Eyes” tells us about the effects on fishing and raising sheep in Greenland. Third, an article entitled, “Global Warming Is Pushing Pacific Salmon to the Brink, Federal Scientists Warn” tells us about salmon fishing in US Pacific Northwest.
The harvest in Mirjana Štimac's almond orchard usually starts in late July, but this year, the crop has failed, with only a few mature nuts per tree. The trees are dying, and she blames a series of heat waves that have struck in recent years in an orchard that was already under stress from steadily rising global temperatures. Štimac has been tending almonds, olives, grapes and figs on the north shore of Korčula Island for 25 years, and while her orchards didn't get the worst of the latest heat wave, they have been suffering. All of the plants are well-adapted to seasonal Mediterranean heat and dryness, yet the cumulative impacts of multiple extreme heat events are starting to add up, she says.
In the Vela Luka harbor on Korčula, boat captain Tonko Barčot steers his fishing boat alongside the pier and shrugs his shoulders as he tells waiting buyers that his holds are empty. A long night at sea in search of sardines brought up only empty nets, and the fish market vendors waiting at the pier grumble among themselves."It's usually in the winter that we have problems, but lately it's happening in the summer more often, too," says Krešimir Zuvela, a university student who works on fishing boats during school breaks. Land heat waves can spill over to the ocean and affect marine ecosystems, said Dan Smale, an ecologist at Britain's Marine Biological Association in Plymouth. Under slow-moving summer weather patterns, the heat buildup over land areas can make the upper layers of the Mediterranean extremely hot, leading to mass die-off events that can ripple through the ecosystem, he said.
Toennes Berthelsen, who is the CEO of the Greenland Fishers and Hunters Association, is quick to point out that a few people there are benefitting from the heat, at least temporarily. "We are very happy that it's warmer," he said. "It's good for the Greenland fisheries. We see more cod, we see mackerel." Worrying changes from a warming climate are easy to point to, though. The shrimp industry has been pushed a little further north as the species seeks colder waters, he said. Same thing for Greenland halibut. There's more seaweed than ever, too. In the southern part of the country, where there are roughly 40 sheep herding families, the dry summer has made it hard to grow enough hay for the herds. They're having to import it from Iceland, which costs a lot of money.
Pacific salmon that spawn in Western streams and rivers have been struggling for decades to survive water diversions, dams and logging. Now, global warming is pushing four important populations in California, Oregon and Idaho toward extinction, federal scientists warn in a new study. The new research shows that several of the region's salmon populations are now bumping into temperature limits, with those that spawn far inland after lengthy summer stream migrations and those that spend a lot of time in coastal habitats like river estuaries among the most at risk.That includes Chinook salmon in California's Central Valley and in the Columbia and Willamette River basins; coho salmon in parts of Northern California and Oregon; and sockeye salmon that reach the Snake River Basin in Idaho, all of which are already on the federal endangered species list. The salmon live much of their lives in the ocean, but they swim far upstream to spawn. In the process, they're a key part of the food chain, including for bears and whales, and they are important to indigenous groups and fisheries along the U.S. West Coast.
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Korčula’s Pjatanca – the annual Spring Food & Wine Festival that takes place at the end of April, offered a fine excuse for a little overnight expedition to our neighbouring island. Arriving on the morning catamaran, we get all day to explore the old town before the special dinner and wine pairing event, and then all the following day until we catch the evening cat back home. Perfect!
Entry to old town
St Marko up the street!
Cukarin – traditional cakes and sweets
Fruit wine for women – really?
Sv Rok on the wall
In the pre-season, Korčula shows the same tendency as Hvar to have major construction projects causing noise and mess. It’s all part of the preparation for summer visitors, apparently best done at the last minute. So the renaissance Gabrielis Palace that normally houses the town museum is undergoing extensive renovations, and what I guess to be a small part of their collection is on display in a building round the corner. I was interested to see the psephisma, an ancient Greek inscription from the 3rd century BC, detailing the names of the colonists from nearby Vis (Issa), and the agricultural land they received. How incredible to know the names of the farmers from all that time ago! Sadly this is only a copy, with the actual stone fragments held in the Archaological Museum in Zagreb.
Museum courtyard
Temporary town museum
Sculpture of a stonemason by Ivan Jujević Knez
Psephism 3rd century BC
Korčula itself is a planned medieval town, with a proud tradition of stonemasons and boat-builders. As you can imagine, such a commanding position overlooking an important shipping channel brought prosperity and trade.The town streets have been laid out in a herringbone pattern to block the worst of the winter gales, while allowing a cooling breeze in the heat of summer. In springtime, the winds were definitely quite fresh, and we were careful to note which way it was blowing, so we could head in the more sheltered direction! Day 1 we walked westwards along the shore towards the headland with the Sv Nikola monastery. This part of the coast used to be where the boatyards were, back in the day of wooden boats. Still some remnants of that activity to be seen as we walk along. And along on the headland, some beautiful wild irises in flower!
Looking towards Pelješac
Wild irises in flower
Boatyard
Before dinner, we stopped off in the LoLe Winebar for a little aperitif. Owner Renato Jurjeviċ offers a lovely selection of wines, and small dishes from carefully sourced local produce. We must come back again soon to sample his food!
Comparing wines at Winebar LoLe
Wine bar and tapas!
The “Korčula in a Bottle” dinner was held in the restaurant of the Lešiċ Dimitri Palace, which is a beautiful conversion taking up almost an entire street of old stone Korčulan houses. The restaurant kitchen is presided over by Marko Gajski, who we first met several years back at Divino’s in Hvar, and then again at Perivoj in Split. We were looking forward to tasting the combination of his dishes with the selection of Korčulan wines as chosen by Hvar’s own Master of Wine, Jo Ahearne. She gave us a wonderful set of wines, many of which were new to us. Fantastic evening, really lived up to expectations, especially as Marko substituted fish dishes specially for me, in place of the meat courses. I particularly love his signature Deconstructed Vis Pogača, so tasty and tastefully arranged!
Sea Bass in curry sauce
Deconstructed Vis pogača
Divina Aurum orange wine
Marko Gajski, Chef
Menu
Jo Ahearne, M.W.
Merga Victa Posip
Day 2, and himself was signed up for the Marenda workshop, ever the dedicated gourmet! On the other hand, I got myself a picnic, and set out with my sketch book to explore the eastern shore (downwind). Although the day was bright and sunny, the freshening breeze was somewhat chilly when faced directly. However, in trying to find a way around to the next cove, I found my path blocked by yet more construction – this time extensive roadworks that had taken over the coastal road for several miles. So it was back to the beach with that glorious view, and find a sheltering pine tree!
Perfect picnic spot!
The marenda event at Konoba Radiona was very popular! It was all about the traditional Dalmatian mid-morning meal, for those who rise at dawn and work hard in the fields, or indeed any physical labour. This is not their lunch, which happens later in the afternoon, when work is done. The workshop consisted of tasting various dishes of home-style food that you’d get for marenda, mostly meat, of course. I joined himself later for a glass of wine and to enjoy the dessert. The location was absolutely gorgeous, with a stunning view of Korčula from the terrace.
Konoba Radiona terrace
I’ll leave the descriptions of the food and wine (both dinner and marenda) for a separate blog, and finish with a peek into my sketchbook. Sketched onsite, with watercolours added in the studio afterwards. You can tell one day was much sunnier than the other!
View from our window
Wild irises
Sv Nikola headland
Korčula from the east (on a sunnier day!)
Korčula from the west
Read More…
Korčula’s Pjatanca – official website with list of events
Town Museum Korcula
Lumbarda Psephisma on Wikipedia
Lešiċ Dimitri Palace and LD Restaurant
Konoba Radiona
LoLe Wine & Tapas Bar
A tasty trip to Korčula Korčula's Pjatanca - the annual Spring Food & Wine Festival that takes place at the end of April, offered a fine excuse for a little overnight expedition to our neighbouring island.
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Binoy Nazareth Adds Croatia to His Bucket List
Explore the Secrets of Croatia
Zdravo (Hello in Croatian)! Welcome to the land of 1000 islands! Discover delicious food, unique culture and a misted over history of Croatia. If you are looking for a refreshing vacation or an adventure through walled towns or even a relaxing holiday by the sea, add Croatia to your bucket list. I am fascinated with Croatia where the sapphire waters make a deep impression on the soul and where the hidden treasures of Europe showcase the secrets of yesterday. Make friends and get kissed 3 times!! Or practice a language that draws you closer to the magnificence of Nature.
Pozdrav (greeting)! I am a beach person and would love to let the blue waters of the Adriatic Sea sweep through the mind with soft breezes and invigorate a vacation with the delights of Croatia. Located in Central and Southeast Europe in the Adriatic Sea, Croatia shares a maritime border with Italy and is bordered by Hungary to the northeast, Slovenia in the northwest, Serbis to the east and Bosnia, Herzegovina and Montenegro to the southeast.
Experience History that Touches the Heart
My bucket list is full of stimulating breaks! Transform your break with a walk through the history of Croatia and immerse yourself in its ancient past. If you are an aficionado of history, Croatia takes the history buff through the Cathedral of St Domnius in Split, the City Walls & Forts of Dubrovnik and the Diocletian’s Palace in Split. Take a spiritual tour through the Krka Monastery, the Euphrasian Basilica in Poreč and St James' Cathedral in Šibenik. Re-visit the past at the Roman Amphitheatre in Pula and let the echoes of the past roar with the cries of the crowd at the gladiator fights. Stop and relish Pasticada with gnocchi and the cuisines from various districts of Croatia with Black risotto, Strukli or pastry, the traditional and typical Pasticada with gnocchi and Peka with meat and vegetables.
I just adore seafood and the Buzara-style cooking with Scampi, mussels or shrimps na Buzarujsut takes the taste buds on a glorious journey while the Skradinski risotto is a treat for every foodie with its veal, ham, chicken, beef and onions. Croatia shares some news for the adventurer with hiking trails, climbing for the brave hearts and the Nature pundits at the Paklenica National Park in North Dalmatia and the Krka National Park with its waterfalls steeped in extraordinary karst and natural surroundings.
My bucket list is abuzz with things to do, places to see and exciting activities in Croatia. You can take off cycling, hiking or rafting to discover Nature’s splendors or walk through the ancient cobbled streets to experience the past. Being a beach lover, I would like to explore Korčula Island with its sandy beaches, small villages, the gorgeous old town, vineyards and olive groves. Stop off at the historic town of Trogir with its beautiful architecture, breathtaking sea views and palm trees. Hold your breath and dive down to absorb a spiritual exercise at the Blue Lagoon where you can surprise the mind with the Stations of the Cross.
Explore the Culinary Secrets of Croatia
My taste buds tingle with the culture of cuisines in Croatia and my culinary journey is rejuvenated with Croatian dishes which are both creative and captivating. Whipping up a storm with the fragrant Gregada an imaginative stew, the aspiring chef in me would love also to taste the rare Vitalac which originates from the island of Brač. The mouth-watering dishes of Croatia evolve over delicacies such as Istarski fuzi, a pasta served with veal sauce, Brudet, a fish stew, Viska and komiska pogaca, a savoury dish with salted fish and roasted turkey with mlinci pasta, a traditional Croatian pasta dish. You can top your incredible meal with wine, Grappa, Prosek or Maraschino. Croatia showcases a mind-boggling carousel of culinary delights which take you on a trip through sugary treats like Fritule, Apple Strudel, Bajamini, Krempite, walnut rolls and an array of mouth-watering desserts.
I have chosen Croatia especially as a distinctive summer and winter holiday destination where tourists can amaze their getaway with innumerable activities. Croatia offers fabulous sightseeing in summer and visitors can enjoy winter with the awesome sight of the frozen-over Plitvice Lakes National Park. Enjoy an experience at the Drubovnik Winter Festival or attend the various Drubovnik events at the Old Town, toast the season with mulled wine and cakes or stroll through the Advent and Christmas markets.
As I celebrate the spirit of relaxing and rejuvenating, my bucket list teems over with spectacular winter activities in Croatia which includes reviving at the thermal spas, skiing and indulging in a day trip to the Neretva Valley also known as the ‘Garden of Drubovnik’. Take off and mingle with the culture of carnivals in Croatia or explore a museum and relax on the beach with a glass of the famed Croatian wine.
Binoy Nazareth Takes You on a Must-see Destination for all Seasons
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