#I’m also willing to buy at a slightly higher price if you manage to score extra

[iwatcheditbegin]

If anyone gets a code for Seattle and / or Denver can you pls lmk. I have been trying for tickets since they first went out. I’ve had no luck.

[fungusqueen]

Here it is! The promised car-buying tips from my amateur and frugal experience! My general tips are to be prepared, do your homework, and don’t get caught off guard by not doing research and agreeing to things/paying for things you didn’t plan on. 

Car salesmen are not your friends and they’re trying to lead you down the path that’s most profitable for them, which is never going to be the best situation for you. It’s their job to try to sell you on a bunch of stuff you don’t need, so be prepared for their tricks and understand the process so you’re not blindsided. Something specific to the coronavirus pandemic is that dealerships will be very desperate to sell (because no one is buying cars right now) and dealerships are willing to take a loss on a sale! BUT! If you go unprepared, it may also leave you vulnerable to dealerships attempting to do unethical shit BECAUSE they are so desperate to sell. They might try to make profits in places you may not suspect. A lot of aspects of buying a car (especially in financing car) sound good up front, but you might find out you’re getting screwed over. 

I’m not going to discuss what makes a good car, or what you should buy etc. because I really don’t know and that’s your business! I’m mainly going to talk about the steps before and during the car-buying process (inside of a dealership and over the phone inquiring prices etc). I did my car search and car-buying alone (due to the global pandemic and my own desire to have minimal contact with others) and for my first time ever! So I’m only going to share my experience and offer resources.

I recommend this podcast episode from NPR’s Life Kit, “How to Buy a Car Without Being Taken for a Ride” as a simple starting point for car buying advice. It’s 23 min long. I know not everyone will listen to the podcast episode (and you don’t have to) so I summarized some of those episode tips below and elaborated on certain points.

1) Don’t appear too excited (at the dealership); they will try to build your excitement as high as possible. Playing on your emotions and creating a fantasy of a new life in a new car puts you in a position to make irrational decisions. When I was in the dealership, they actually asked me “Are you excited?” and I said “No.” I was also wearing a face mask, so with half my face covered, concealing my excitement was pretty easy! Their attempts may also appear as them trying to get you to talk shit about your old car to get you complaining, and further idealizing your future car. Overall, appearing too eager will not make them fight over you to get a sale. Make them beg!

2) Get pre-approved for a loan before going to a dealership. Know what kind of interest rate you can get and what kind of monthly payment you can afford. Your credit score will inform this; the better your score, the better your rate will be (so if you have time to improve your score, try to build it as high as possible). Your bank/credit union should have rates listed easily online. You don’t have to be a member of a credit union to get a loan with them, but there may be a discounts if you’re already a member. PLEASE KNOW that after applying for a loan, your bank/credit union will give you a time limit on how long you have to find a car/use the loan. My credit union gave me 20 days from the time I applied, but it can vary. You can also call to increase or decrease the loan if the car you initially wanted is no longer available or you choose a different one. When you apply for a loan, you have to supply the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number), but obviously car shopping can change so make sure you supply your bank/credit union with the new VIN number of the car you decide to go with. Your bank/credit union may not approve you for a car that is too old. This happened to me (I first applied for a 2013 car in my budget) and they let me know they typically dont approve loans for cars older than 2014, which was a blessing in disguise because I found a newer model of the same car for around the same price. I ended up changing the car VIN/loan amount 3 times overall from the time I first got pre-approved for my car loan. Just keep your bank/credit union updated. Also! It’s not necessary but it helps if they can send a written (emailed) confirmation of the loan amount with APR listed, as the dealership will need it later in the finance office. 

3) Definitely TEST DRIVE a car you see online before considering purchasing it. It might feel different than you thought! I test drove an older model of the car I wanted before test driving a slightly newer model and I’m really glad I test drove the older one so I had something to compare it too. There was only a two year difference between the models but the upgrades made a difference in ways I wouldn’t have thought before sitting in the driver’s seat!

4) Beware the 7 year car loan. It’s probably not the right car for you if you need 84 months to pay off. Car loans are not like home loans; cars are always depreciating in value. Interest on car loans is also always front-loaded, so the money you put in your first few years will mostly go towards your interest, not the principal of your car loan, and you could be spending way more than you thought. If the car does not last you 7 years, you may owe more than the car ends up being worth if you want to or have to sell it. At this point, it might be a smarter decision to lease a car, if for whatever reason, you insist on getting a specific car. 

4.5) To add to this last point, you’ve probably seen dealership ads on TV or in print that say “0% APR for 84 months!” This is kind of a scam (at least imo) because it’s very seductive in a way that can distract you from other ways you can save. These advertisements serve the purpose of getting people into showrooms. This is because interest rate is only ONE SMALL FACTOR into finding what’s right for your budget. An APR offer is minimal compared to your monthly payment...if the monthly payment is too high (overall car price too high), are you really saving $$? These offers might even be for a shorter payment term, (ex. 36 month instead of 60 month), your monthly payment could be too high for your budget because you didn’t have the flexibility outside of this offer! If your term payment is longer (ex. 84 months), while your car depreciates in value, you may end up owing more than it’s worth by time you pay it off. 7 years is a long time! As well, these offers are usually only for NEW cars (again, more expensive than necessary) and buying used might be a better option. As well, they are not transparent about the minimum credit score required to qualify for 0% APR, so you may not even qualify...even with great credit! The 0% offer is also usually offered along with other incentives, like a manufacturer rebate (thousand $ and above). You’ll often have to chose between one incentive or the other...you could be turning down a multi-thousand dollar rebate because that 0% is very seductive...but if you did the math, it might not be the best option for your budget. ALSO! If you’re going to buy new anyway, banks/credit unions offer better APR rates for new cars rather than used so compare. If you can get a super low APR from your credit union on a new car, why get stuck with a higher monthly payment on a too long/too short loan term you otherwise wouldn’t have chosen just to get that 0%?

5) To continue with the point above ^^ When you are with the salesman, start with price of the car and don’t talk about ANYTHING else until later. THIS IS WHERE THEY GET YOU! They will try to get you to talk about financing, how much money you want to put down etc. BEFORE promising you a juicy competitive price on the car. SO! APR rates shouldn’t even be discussed until you can agree to the price of the car! Sort of another way they GET YA! So distracting! Can prevent you from getting your lowest overall price possible! 

6) IT IS SO FRICKEN IMPORTANT AND I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH, BECAUSE THIS HAS HELPED ME THE MOST OF ANY TIP I’VE HEARD FROM FRIENDS: ASK FOR OTD (Out the door) price. The prices you see listed online or on a sticker on the car window are not the prices you’ll end up paying. OTD price includes everything, tax, fees etc. A few dealerships nearby had the same car I wanted (only varying slightly in color, mileage etc. but exact same year and model) so I called a few and said “HI I saw your car online, could you give me the OTD (out the door) price?” Ask them to break it down for you, what’s the price of the car, what’s tax, document fee, dmv fee, etc. If the OTD price is very high above the car price plus tax, beware! You should not be paying thousands of dollars in additional mystery fees. If a handful of dealerships have basically the same car, see which one can give you the best price. If a dealership cannot be up-front about their OTD price, and break it down for you so you know how all the money is adding up, RUN AWAY! You can ask for this information over the phone, some fees are often not necessary and are negotiable.

With this coronavirus pandemic, you should not be paying this full OTD price on the car, ask for at least 10% off and see what they say. In my situation, I called, got the OTD price at two different dealerships, one dealership asked me what they could do to get my business and I said, “I might come in today if you can give me 10% off the OTD price.” (I was cackling behind my phone tbh! it seemed ridiculous to me but whatevs). The salesman I was speaking to calculated it, said he’d call me back after asking his manager. When he called me back, they offered me just under 10% off...which sounded pretty sweet to me because the car was already being sold below it’s Kelly Blue Book value and that was the dealership I eventually went with. So u never know if you don’t ask! I asked the same of another dealership and they basically said no. So call around! This guy, Kevin Hunter, on youtube, gave me this idea! His channel is full of car buying wisdom so I highly recommend! 

He has a great recent video specifically about the car buying market in during this coronavirus pandemic. He has videos on topics like, honest car salesman techniques, are certified preowned vehicles worth it, fake fees you shouldn’t pay for, etc. 

7) Something I experienced that Kevin Hunter ^ also explains, (in this video titled, CAR SALESMAN TRICKS YOU into buying a car! DEALERSHIP Rip off: The SET UP) is this weird 4 square setup they did to me...and they do to everyone at a dealership. It’s another distraction tactic, that they will use to distract you from getting a good price on the car. It will look like this:

So the salesman will bring this informal piece of paper out. It’s not a contract, it’s not official, but they’re going to use this paper to pull information from you THAT YOU SHOULD NEVER GIVE THEM! At the point they bring this out, you should only be talking about car sales price. So this piece of paper has spaces to write trade in value (if you’re bringing in your old car to trade in), down payment, monthly payment, and car price. Anything that is not the car sales price will be used against you to try and get you to pay more. They’re trying to create the best profit for the dealership. 

When I was at the dealership, the salesman kept pushing me to say how much cash I wanted to put down, what kind of monthly payment I wanted (ie. how much money can I spend), (and in my situation, I didn’t have a trade-in car, so discussion about that wasn’t brought up). Practice refusing to answer these questions...I kept saying I did not want to discuss financing or cash down until we could agree to the price of the car. You can also say you prefer to discuss this with the finance manager. He tried to get me to sign this 4-Square paper with a higher price on it than I was given on the phone. Do not sign this, it’s weird. I brought out a paper with a much lower price and asked him to sign off on that price instead. Bring the focus back to the car price. Be prepared to walk out and TELL THEM you will leave if you don’t get the price you want! 

which leads me to my next point...

8) DO NOT SAY YOU ARE PAYING CASH. Do not say how much cash you have, do not discuss HOW you are paying at any point with the salesman. After you can agree to a favorable price on the car, you’ll be handed to a finance manager in another room. The salesman is NOT the finance officer. You should not tell your salesman your financial details. If anything, you only have to give the salesman VERY BASIC details so they can run a credit check before handing you to the finance manager.

and below....here is a WHY YOU SHOULDN’T DISCUSS HOW YOU’RE PAYING WITH THE SALESMAN. 

9) Dealers can make a lot of money off a car loan...if you finance through them. Make them believe in the possibility that you might finance through them. They might give you a lower price on the car because they might assume they can get ya with a high APR or long term payment...which will bring them money in the long term. Don’t tell them you’re financing through your bank/credit union before you settle on the car price! In some cases though, a dealership might be able to give you a better deal thank your bank. You can say, “Why don’t you run my credit and see what you can offer me” and then see if it’s better than what your bank/credit union can give you. They also might test you with a high APR, even if you qualify for a lower APR (just to see if you’ll take it), and might even use details of your credit report against you...

10) If you have a trade in, they will also try to make a profit from not giving you enough $$ for your old car. Get a price quote from Carmax and check the Kelly Blue Book value beforehand to see if they’re giving you a good price. If it’s not good enough, you might want to consider walking away from the dealership and just selling to Carmax. Because of online transparency and easy access to prices of cars, they will try to make money in other areas OTHER THAN the car price, and this is one of them. 

11) After you’ve settled on the price of the car and they’ve run your credit, you’ll be moved from the salesman to the finance office...where you’ll be signing contracts and discussing other add-ons, (warranties, insurances, protections etc.) When you’re in the finance office, DONT BUY ANY ADD ONS THE DAY YOU BUY YOUR CAR. If you decide to, research a good price for what they offer you. You can call the dealership and ask to speak to the finance manager ahead of time and ask what additional items you may be offered. These might be paint protection, tire protection, extended warranties, gap insurance etc. When they offer these things to you, they are often overpriced. You can also get these later, or get these elsewhere for a better price. Research ahead of time to see what’s right for you and don’t try to figure it out unprepared because they will try to convince you. 

That concludes my numbered dealership tips! I probably left some stuff out, so please continue to do your research.

This podcast episode from This American Life, 129 Cars, illustrates the importance of using timing and desperation on the part of salespeople to your advantage. This is a longer listen, over an hour long, but it follows salespeople during their work day as they try to meet their monthly quota in order to reach their sales bonus. Towards the end of the month can be an ideal buying time because dealerships may be willing to take a loss or make no commission from a sale because if they’re able to reach their quota, they will either...not be fired, or they may receive a sizeable bonus. Overall, TIMING can be key in getting a good deal. Dealerships also have yearly sales quotas, so if you can wait, you may be able to get a better deal on a car towards the end of the year. 

As well, I recommend a Monday/weekday since dealerships are least busy during this time. AND! If you need to contact your bank, it might be impossible on the weekend. Because of coronavirus, operating hours for banks/credit unions have been shortened so if you need to finalize some financing details or ask your bank/credit union questions, make sure you’re able to do so when needed! I ran into this problem and was delayed because my credit union was closing early. 

One last tip! You also will also need to insure this new car so call your car insurance carrier and let them know you’re car shopping and they can help you add the new car to your current policy, or change your current insurance. You car insurance might increase or decrease with the addition of a new car. And if you’re getting a car with a higher value, you might want to consider adding more coverage to your current coverage. The dealership might give you free temporary insurance so you can drive the car off the lot with coverage. When I called my insurance carrier to add this new car onto my policy, it didn’t take effect until midnight that night so the dealership gave me temporary insurance just in case something happened on the drive home. You legally do need insurance to drive it off the lot or if you’ve never been insured before. So if you’re currently on somebody else’s policy, get some quotes from different insurance carriers and try to get an idea of the future cost.

Those are all my tips! This took a lot longer than I thought, heh heh, but I seriously hope this helps someone because buying a car is a HUGE DEAL and there’s so much potential to get taken advantage of due to the lack of transparency!!! There’s a lot more I could have covered so I encourage you to take more time to do more research! And good luck if you plan on buying a car soon!

[thewhitefluffyhat]

Gameplay

What is this review?

<-Previous (Sound)

The biggest problem with Magia Record is that it’s a gacha game.  The biggest problem with gacha games is that they’re awful, soul-sucking trash that lock missable content behind randomized, exploitative, and absurdly expensive microtransactions.

Thus, while, Magia Record could be quite a bit worse than it currently is, it’s definitely not a good game by any metric of ethical game design.  Effectively, it gets an F by default, so comparing it to non-dumpsterfire-genre videogames is rather futile.  Either you’re willing to deal with the devil that is gacha or you’re a smart person who avoids them.

A more useful comparison is how Magia Record holds up amid its peers, so that’s the angle I’m taking here.

Good

Rares not necessary

While there are some units that definitely make the challenging battles easier, the game’s story missions are never locked behind a difficulty barrier that effectively requires you to have a limited or rare character.  

Eventually, some of the lower rarity characters get updates which make them competitive with the highest rarity units.  There are also quite a few “free” characters that can be obtained in ways that don’t require gacha rolls or premium currency.

Best of all, literally every character can be usable and even useful if you want them to be.  And yes, that includes the common 2-stars and even the joke characters!  It’s a game that very much encourages you to play with whatever magical girls are your favorites.

UI

Convenience features are plentiful and significantly help alleviate the tedious parts of the grindy gacha game experience.  In particular, there’s not just an auto-battle feature, but you can also set different aspects of your team’s AI and run the battles at 2x speed.  Memoria (equip item) management originally started out a little difficult and unwieldy, but became easier with each new tweak to the system, to the point where it’s quite smooth on the current Japanese version.

In general, the UI is excellent.  I wouldn’t usually consider this a notable feature, but when it’s simple to remember and navigate a game even in a different language, that’s pretty good.

Mixed

Mirrors

“Endless Mirrors” is the name of the game’s asynchronous player vs. player combat system.

So yes, the bad news is that there is a player vs. player combat system, and you need to play it to unlock some story content.  Since this is a gacha game with fancy powerful rare characters, of course this mode (and the occasional player vs. player ranking tournaments) are pay-to-win by their very nature.

Thankfully, even if you don’t have the best units, it doesn’t actually matter besides bragging points.  Scoring high in the tournaments, for example, only gives you a badge on your profile.  But even losing battles will still net you some of the associated currency and slightly increase your progress to the next story unlock.  

And, as mentioned above, several common units are able to hold their own in this mode.  Thus, paying makes winning easier, but you don’t actually need to pay to have a pretty respectable win ratio or tournament rank.

Overall Gameplay

The basic battle mechanics are easy to learn, but still have some strategic depth to them.   Optimizing team synergies isn’t necessary in anything but player vs. player combat, but can be fun - the interplay between stats, elements, equipped effects, and other mechanics makes team building quite satisfying when you figure out a winning combination with the units you want.

Where this falls down is the sheer amount of grinding required to progress.  The convenience features mentioned above help, but there’s no getting around how the game expects you to spend hours and hours using auto-battle to farm event currency and rare material drops.  Figuring out a good team setup for a battle is only a fraction of the game, far eclipsed by mindlessly repeating that same battle over and over while you hopefully multitask with something else.

If the grinding is the lowest gameplay point, though, the Connect mechanic is probably one of the highest.  Using a “Connect” allow one character to boost a teammate, and the rare character-to-character specific bonuses are a nice bit of gameplay and story integration I wish the game used more.  Unfortunately, other than that...

Bad

There’s little relation between story and gameplay

The first major gameplay disappointment for me is that Magia Record’s story is decent, and Magia Record’s battle system is decent, but the two only have a passing relation to each other.  The game’s actual mechanics do very little to support the story, and vice-versa.

Sometimes this can reach pretty silly levels.  You can defeat story bosses with a team that includes multiple versions of that same character, and that’s just the start.  Your roster of characters does not exist in the story’s world, and in fact would be literally impossible in many cases.

While I consider this scenario better than having gameplay that strongly supported the story but were a chore to play, it’s yet one more missed opportunity in a game full of them.

Gacha Rates and Limited Time Content

The gacha rates are quite bad (1% chance for the highest rarity units), but including a pity counter (the 100th role is guaranteed to be a highest rarity unit) makes it not the worst system out there.

Limited-time character gacha events are present and these events become more frequent as over time, too.  Luckily, most of these characters have gotten at least one rerun, but it’s still a frustrating and manipulative system.

Prices for the premium currency are also ridiculously high, which is to say, I’ve heard they’re roughly the same or a bit higher compared to other games in the genre.  However, you can amass quite a bit of premium currency simply by patiently stockpiling over time.  

That being said, there are also special items (such as a guaranteed chance to pull a random highest rarity character) that even the premium currency won’t let you buy.  Those items can only be bought with paid premium currency, which is definitely not a confusing system at all.

Gacha-locked story content

Compounding the awful that is the gacha mechanics, by far the worst gameplay feature is that you need to obtain a character to get access to their Magical Girl Story.  Since these backstories (and some Event Stories) are both some of the best written content in the game and also sometimes necessary to completely understand everything in the Main Story, this is a bad, bad system.

What makes it even more annoying is that the Main Story-relevant content isn’t even on characters that are easy to get - no, it’s on rares, seasonal event stories, and in some cases, seasonal limited rares that happened half a year before becoming story-relevant.  Ouch.

Youtube and wikis are your friends.

Next (Conclusion) ->

[mindthump]

The Shocking Reality of Scaling an Online Business http://ift.tt/2qgX08b

Editor's note: This is an excerpt from Daniel DiPiazz's new book Rich20Something: Ditch Your Average Job, Start An Epic Business, Score The Life You Want.

It’s two-thirty in the morning, and you’ve woken up from your sleep to feel the bedside table vibrating ever so slightly. A notification on your phone is making a white shadow dance across the wall next to your bed. You know you should go back to sleep, but on impulse, you grab your phone and flick your groggy fingers across the touch screen.

It’s a Gmail notification bubble. Normally this could wait until later -- who the hell has time to respond to emails at two-thirty? Then, you read the subject line of the email:

Subject: You just received $1,297

You realize this is not spam; it’s real. Holy shit! You just made almost $1,300 without lifting a finger.

What would it be like to have this happen every single night? How would it change your life to know that you have a business that pays you automatically every single day, whether or not you decide to “clock in” for work that day, no matter what country you’re in, for the rest of your life?

How would your life change if you had the ultimate security of knowing that you had an army of salespeople working around the clock to make you money and you didn’t have to pay them a dime?

To some people, this might sound like science fiction - or worse yet, a sleazy late-night infomercial. If you’re rolling your eyes all the way to the back of your head right now, I get it. Trust me, I do. I thought the same thing. Then I discovered the power of starting an online business. And I can tell you one thing: All this, and much more, is possible.

Want to learn how I created the life of my dreams (and nearly unlimited income) building online products? Of course you do.

I’ll admit, the above description of online business is a bit “hypey.” Full disclosure: I took it straight from one of the sales emails for my premium training on building an online business, Startup from the Bottom. But despite being a bit over the top in its approach and copywriting, for the most part it’s true. Online business is where it’s at.

The Shocking Reality of Scale (aka, “How Much Money Can I Make?”)

I think the number-one thing that surprises most people about info products is how much money you can make with a relatively small email list and halfway-decent marketing.

Here’s a quick example: Let’s say you’re a bomb-ass photographer who wants to teach beginners how to get started in the industry. You decide to create a relatively inexpensive mini-course that will teach step-by-step instructions for taking great wedding photos and booking your first job. Simple enough, right?

You set up a blog and start writing about your photography ideas, and slowly, people start signing up for your email list. It doesn’t happen overnight, but as the months roll by and you keep writing, the subscribers trickle in. After six months, you have your first thousand subscribers.

You make the course and price it at two hundred dollars, then promote it to your list.

The reality of any sales situation (not just online sales) is that only a fraction of people will end up being buyers. And that’s OK. You don’t need everyone to buy; you only want people who are engaged and interested.

Assume that of the thousand people on your list, you get a conversion rate of 5 percent, which is not unrealistic for a small, engaged list:

5 percent of 1,000 = 50 sales

50 sales at $200 = $10,000

That’s ten thousand dollars from a small email list, after sending out just a few emails! I don’t know about you, but that’s a lot of money to me. It’s more than most people make in several months, and you’ve done it all automatically from your laptop. You didn’t need a lot of customers, and there’s not a ton of support needed to keep them happy.

But let’s play with the numbers a bit.

Perhaps you want to turn your course into premium, all-inclusive flagship training in the photography business. It will have everything from how to turn the camera on, to how to become a full-time photographer making six figures. A program of this depth is going to require a lot more time on your part, and it’s going to offer a lot more value to the customer, so you’re going to charge more.

This course is going to be priced at two thousand dollars (with an option for payment plans to make it easier on people). Assume that since the price is much higher, the conversion rate is going to go down from a healthy 5 percent to 1 percent, which is industry standard for a course of this price. Look at what happens:

1 percent of 1,000 = 10 sales

10 sales at $2,000 = $20,000

After tweaking your prices, even with drastically reduced conversion, you’ve still doubled your money. Twenty thousand dollars is a significant fraction of most people’s yearly income -- and you’ve managed to make that by simply creating a product that people need and finding 10 customers somewhere in the world that are willing to pay for that value.

As your email list grows from one thousand to ten thousand, to a hundred thousand, so will your profits. But it’s all based on the same basic model of giving value up front for free with content, directing people to your email list, and offering them something else.

It’s not magic; it’s just math.

Imagine that you took the same photography product and made it into a recurring product where new content was continually added and users paid fifty dollars per month to access it -- similar to the Netflix model. Now, assume that your email list continues to grow and you’re able to continually get people to buy this product. Some people will drop off and more will sign up as the year progresses since it’s a monthly payment, but your average retention rate is about six months. Since the barrier to entry is considerably lower at fifty dollars per month, let’s assume that you can keep a hundred people in the membership program at any given time.

Here’s what those numbers look like for the year:

100 people x $50/month = $5,000 per month

$5,000/month x 12 months = $60,000 per year

Do you see what just happened there? By creating a fifty-dollar product, you’ve just made a nice yearly salary with only one hundred people. Imagine if you got two hundred people! This is why creating information products is so powerful: It allows you to scale your knowledge and make incredible amounts of money with a small handful of customers in very small niches. This is a powerful business model. (As I write this, I’m also beginning to realize why some pastors are driving Bentleys. If every member of the congregation gives twenty dollars per week . . .)

Note: I’m purposely simplifying the math here so that you can understand the opportunity at hand and the general process for creating an information product business. This isn’t some late-night infomercial where you just set it and forget it—at least not in the beginning. It’s going to take a lot of hard work to get everything set up -- but so will any business.

Hell, it’s hard to clock into work every day and work for someone else, isn’t it? If you’re going to be working on something, doesn’t it make sense to create something with this type of flexibility and unlimited potential?

Starting a business is one of the hardest things you can do—and as some of these examples should demonstrate, the answers can often be quite counterintuitive. But you don’t have to do this alone.

If you thought the strategies I shared for how an online business works were helpful, you’re going to love my new book Rich20Something: Ditch Your Average Job, Start An Epic Business, Score The Life You Want.

In total, the book has more than 300 pages of detailed strategies, crazy anecdotes and larger-than-life personalities -- including case studies from over a dozen wildly successful entrepreneurs who will tell you exactly how they did it.

Related: The Shocking Reality of Scaling an Online Business To Grow Your Business, You Need to Handcraft Your Experience With Early Customers Should Your Product Be Perfect or Scalable? Can It Be Both?