#Ernest Beaux N°22

[angelitam]

Les Numéros de Chanel

Les Numéros de Chanel

Des numéros importants pour des fragrances de Chanel. Les Numéros de Chanel Parmi Les Exclusifs de Chanel, ce sont 3 parfums d’exception qui s’inspirent de 3 années décisives dans la vie de Gabrielle Chanel. Rencontre, style, vision, symboles de sa numérologie personnelle. N°22 de Chanel Un bouquet floral aldéhydé immédiatement reconnaissable. N°22 comme 1922, l’année de sa création et comme…

[thebeautycove]

CHANEL - CUIR DE RUSSIE - Les Exclusifs de Chanel - Eau de Parfum -

No one can judge me. I’m history. But here and now I’m in glory.Time and space are blurred. Do not assume you’re wearing this fragrance. Cuir de Russie wears you. According to Chanel grandniece Gabrielle Palasse-Labrunie, Coco favorites fragrance were N.5 and Cuir de Russie.Well, how to blame her?

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CUIRS | CAPITOLO V

Chanel. Cuir de Russie. Il sublime reso fragranza.Poche parole per definire questo capolavoro. Nessun giudizio, solo la storia che lo accompagna e un invito a voi che leggete. Fatelo vostro.È arte. È storia. È il migliore investimento che possiate fare per compiacervi e sentire l’emozione in un respiro. Cuir de Russie vide la luce nel 1927, creato da Ernest Beaux dopo il mitico 5 del 1921, il 22, Gardenia e a seguire Bois des Iles. All’epoca Coco frequentava una ristretta cerchia di amici russi, da Diaghilev a Stravinsky e fu il granduca Dimitri Pavlovich, cugino dello Zar Nicola II, a presentarle Beaux nell’estate del 1920 in Costa Azzurra. Incontro fatale che segnerà la storia della Profumeria. Per Cuir de Russie immaginò l’estasi amorosa di Coco e Dimitri, i loro incontri passionali, le lenzuola profumate col 5 e gli stivali di cuoio di lui lustri di catrame di betulla con il loro aroma penetrante. Come in un turbinio osmotico di pelle e sensi le aldeidi bucavano l’aria scintillando su fiori vellutati sottilmente indolici, l’iris trapelava nostalgico, la nota cuoio morbida balsamica ambrata schiudeva orizzonti infiniti, tabacco e resine definivano l’allure animalica, provocante, calda e sensuale ma al contempo di rara raffinatezza. Jacques Polge ha attualizzato la composizione nel 1983, rimanendo fedele alla partitura di Beaux, precise e splendenti le aldeidi nel bouquet di fiori bianchi soavemente carnali, più tono all’iris dall’aura maliziosa e romantica. Appare chiarissima e nobile l’eleganza del cuoio, scuro morbido tattile, una nappa extrafine che pare spalmata sulla pelle mentre, nel sontuoso finale, dove legni, tabacco e resine odorano di mistero e voluttà, ci si perde per incantamento. Toccante e suggestiva, sa di crepuscolo, di cieli ambrati dove far galoppare i pensieri, racconta passioni ancora vive e promesse che sono state mantenute. Da brivido caldo. Come tutte le fragranze della collezione Les Exclusifs de Chanel, Cuir de Russie è disponibile nel formato 75ml e 200ml presso le Fragrance & Beauty Boutique Chanel e online

Il Cuoio di Russia, perchè è così pregiato?  

il mitico cuoio russo, cuoio imperiale amato dagli zar e dalla nobiltà europea, veniva, come si evince dal nome, prodotto in Russia nei territori di Kazan e Astrakan.  Le pelli bovine erano sottoposte ad una concia vegetale a base di tannini e cortecce (quercia, betulla e altre specie endemiche) che rilasciava un odore pungente molto caratteristico, dovuto alle essenze contenute nella corteccia di betulla e all'utilizzo di catrami vegetali. Il cuoio di russia richiede lunghi tempi di lavorazione, anche oltre l'anno, viene sottoposto a maturazione in fossa per circa sei mesi in un'infusione alcolica con betulla, salice e quercia da cui si ottiene un pellame unico e inimitabile. Robusto, durevole nel tempo, flessibile, resistente, idrorepellente, antimuffa e anti-insetti, questo nobile cuoio fu impiegato per molteplici usi, dagli interni delle carrozze, alla valigeria e persino per accessori e stivali dell'esercito russo.Spazzato via dalla Rivoluzione Russa e industriale (1917), è ancora oggi ritenuto un pellame di assoluto pregio, inconfondibile per la solidità, la trama robusta e il suo aroma sottilmente catramoso. Pelle da intenditori.

©thebeautycove

[myhistoryfinal]

Building Her Empire

About three years after opening her first shop, selling hats, Chanel Modes, in Coco Chanel opened her second and took a shot in the clothing industry. She put out a collection unlike anything else that was out at the time. She sold “simple sportswear, such as jersey sweaters” (Britannica) As simple as that may seem to us today, it was unthinkable before she had done it. It was quite literally a cultural reset. She changed the way women had seen their bodies, she made it okay to be comfortable and feel good about themselves at the same time. Everyone, including the most influential, public figures at the time, loved the line and it was an immediate success. By the year 1915, she was fully established and respected in her industry. That same year, she officially opened her first “couture house” in Biarritz, France. This was soon followed by a second in Paris in the year 1918, on the same street as her very first store.

The 1920’s were very eventful for the Chanel brand. At this point, the company’s net worth was already millions of dollars, with that money Chanel continued to expand her company, hiring more workers, and selling more products including jewelry, makeup and perfume. In 1921, she debuted her first fragrance called “Chanel N°5,” which was brewed by Ernest Beaux, apparently it’s number five “because it was the fifth scent presented to mademoiselle Chanel.” (Inside Chanel) The release was a huge success, including “a combination of jasmine and several other floral scents that was more complex and mysterious than the single-scented perfumes then on the market,” it was adored by everyone. The next year, she released her second fragrance, calling it, “Chanel N°22”, named after its birth year, 1922. This release resulted in yet another hit with the public.  

The remainder of the decade was just as interesting for Chanel. In the year 1924, Coco Chanel stepped out of her comfort zone several times again, including finding her bearings in the makeup industry. Dropping a collection of lip colors and face powders that turned out to be extremely popular are profitable for the brand. There were a total of three more fragrances released, including Chanel Gardénia in 1925, Bois Des Iles in 1926, and Cuir De Russia in 1927, each design more sleek and innovative than the last.

The 1930’s was when Chanel was at the top of the game. The brand moved to creating clothing for these Hollywood actresses in their movies, getting the brand the exposure it has been craving, the global kind. I would assume the next collection the brand released was tailored for its new consumer population of rich famous women from Hollywood, because it was full of stunning diamond pieces, necklaces, bracelets and headpieces. By 1935, Coco Chanel was a famous designer, employing 4,000 people and owning five different Paris boutiques.

Although in 1945, Chanel had to clothes all of its stores, due to the threats posed by World War II at the time, the brand is still producing until this day. They reopened the first couture house in 1954, and got to work, Coco Chanel was “tired of the fashions of the time,”(Inside Chanel) even though she was 71 at the time, she didn’t let anything get in her way before, so I would expect nothing less. She wasted no time, dropping product after product while she still could including, her infamous 2.55 bag, the brand’s first and only men’s fragrance ever released and two toned shoes. The last thing released under Coco Chanel’s reign was the Chanel N°19, after her own birthday, August 19th.