#Custom Engraving Plates

[edcoaward]

How to Reward an Employee for Years of Service

The blog on EDCO's website outlines strategies for rewarding employees who have reached significant service milestones. It includes ideas like personalized awards, public recognition, and unique experiences to honor their dedication. The focus is on creating meaningful gestures that reflect appreciation and encourage continued commitment.

[famousjewelrytrends]

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[printhutt123]

Timeless Memories: Creating Your Own Personalized Photo Wall Clock

Print Hutt offers a unique and personalized touch to timekeeping with their exclusive Personalized Photo Wall Clocks. Transform your living space by showcasing your most cherished memories on a quality timepiece. With a range of design options, choose from family photos, travel adventures, or life milestones to create a clock that not only tells the time but also narrates your story. Crafted with precision and attention to detail, Print Hutt's Personalized Photo Wall Clocks blend functionality with sentiment, making them an ideal and meaningful addition to any home. Capture the essence of time and memories with these beautifully customized wall clocks.

Read more:- https://customprinthutt.photo.blog/2024/01/19/timeless-memories-creating-your-own-personalized-photo-wall-clock/

[alice-jx-auto-cnc]

1.22 meters large embossed disc 

More details or free tutorials ,please contact on whatsapp :008618053182392/ jxmanager@jxautocnc.com, Our website : jxautocnc.com

[classicachievements]

Buy Best Ever Custom Engraved Plates

[tokyo-camera-style]

Totem Pole Photo Gallery, Shinjuku

A custom painted Leica M7 with a V4 35mm f2 Summicron lens

The man holding this M7 camera had it customized by Shueido in Taiwan as a gift for his daughter. He and his wife named their daughter Leica- and so, in addition to the pastel pinks and purples, he had "Leica" engraved in hiragana 「らいか」 on the top plate.

Since Leica chan is still only two years old she doesn't use it much, yet. But when she's old enough she'll have quite an interesting camera to begin photography with!

You can see their Instagram account here.

[maemisnippets]

The World Moves Too Fast for Yeseo (ft. Kang Yeseo)

The door creaks open. Yeseo drags her feet through the door and into the living room.

"Ah, oppa, I'm so tired." She mutters as she falls beside you on the couch.

"Did practice tire you?" You ask, glancing over to her, seeing her head leaned on the back of the couch.

"No, oppa." She mutters. "I went to 3 different restaurants for fried chicken. They're all closed at this hour!"

"Aww, my poor baby." You pat her on the head. "Don't worry. I'll make you some spaghetti."

You pause the TV and get up to the kitchen. Looking at her, she's one boring story away from sleeping.

As you start walking to the kitchen, she calls you. "Oppa, can you carry me to the dining table?" You giggle at her request. "Oppa, please? My legs are tired."

You lean over to her, put your hands on her cheeks and squish them. "You. Are. A. Strong. And. Independent. Woman. Yeseo-ya." You awaken her with each word giving her another pinch on both cheeks.

"Ah, stop that, oppa! It hurts!"

"You're just too cute. I can't help it." You squish her cheeks even more. "I'll go make your spaghetti now, okay?"

You make your way to the other room. You prepare your ingredients and start cooking. You cooked spaghetti so many times now that Mashiro's instructions on how to cook spaghetti just as Yeseo likes it is engraved in your brain, down to every specific measurement.

After a couple minutes, voila! You had cooked spaghetti, maybe in record time. After plating it nicely, you make your way to the living room to serve your beloved customer.

"Yeseo-ya, I made…" You are greeted with the sound of snoring, and a sleeping Yeseo not on the couch, but on the floor. You only see her socks peeking around the center table, but as you walk closer, her full body comes into view. Her head is twisted to the side with her mouth wide open. You wake her up before her drool may have made its way to the carpet.

"Yeseo-ya, I made spaghetti."

"Spaghetti?" She wakes up in an instant. She sits up on the floor and locks her eyes on the plate of spaghetti you placed on the table in front of her.

"Smells good! Thanks for the food, oppa!" She exclaims with the little remaining energy she has left in her. You sit behind her as you resume watching. As Yeseo eats to her heart's content, your heart is filled seeing her joyously eating the only dish you know how to cook.

[homoeroticgrappling]

If MxM win the tag titles I need them to have the belts custom made so the plates are just engraved mirrors

[edcoaward]

Top 50 Service Award Ideas and Employee Years of Service Trophies

Explore the "Top 50 Service Award Ideas and Employee Years of Service Trophies" for creative and meaningful ways to recognize dedication. This guide offers diverse and customizable options to celebrate employee milestones and foster a culture of appreciation. Discover the perfect award to honor loyalty and inspire continued excellence.

[pathesis]

My friend @doctordash joined our PF2 game and his character, Patches is so cool and hot I'm going to explode.

Here's the Character bio he wrote for him below!:

Patches stands at a towering 7'2" despite his somewhat hunched over posture, his bloodline of a Great Gnoll is clearly evident in his powerful build and light-brown fur. The height is accentuated by a shock of vivid red hair, styled up into a wild mohawk that seems to keep its own shape despite any outward influence. Dark brown/black spots speckle his hide, though the distinction between what is natural and what is simply oil and grease can be hard to determine. His eyes are vivid yellow, crowned by a pair of dark-lensed goggles that frequently rest on his forehead, and his snout and ears are accentuated with multiple humble piercings made of reused nuts, bolts, and bits of junk, including a prominent ring dangling from his chunky black nose. His namesake is a dull grey-blue captain's greatcoat that has been patched, corrected, and carefully repaired dozens of times, frayed at the edges and showing its age. Beneath it, a tattered white shirt covers his shaggy chest, or often times, nothing. A pair of thick leather gloves, fingerless to account for claws, protect his hands when he works. A belt with a tarnished skull buckle holds up a baggy boiler suit tied at the waist, festooned with numerous tools of the smith's trade.

His pride and joy, far and above all else, is his reinforced Powered Armor. An unholy union of clockwork, steam, magic, and steel, the great metal behemoth serves as Patches' second skin. An intelligent design, custom built to fit his powerful frame, that turns the already intimidating visage of a Gnoll into an 8-foot unyielding titan of iron and flame. The base frame was clearly built from a mundane suit of plate armor, fitted with clockwork gizmos and clad in scattered salvage dredged from the depths of the Serpent Isles. The left forearm sports an array of gauges, dials and buttons, hooked into pipework that attaches to a back-mounted unit with a large smokestack. The helm piece has a slot for Patches' goggles to fit into, is fitted with rows of razor sharp metal teeth, and proudly displays its own signature mohawk, fashioned from a discarded sawblade and splattered with red paint. A worn ship's crest has been bolted to the front of the suit, the original name long since lost to the waves, and the passage of time. Instead, a new title has been cast onto the faded metal plaque with blocky, hand-engraved letters. MAYHEM.

[andsewingishalfthebattle]

SiliNOT! Testing and Review

Since I run a lot of casting workshops, I've had several people in the costuming/maker community ask me my opinion on SiliNOT!, a relatively new product advertised as a budget- and eco-friendly moldmaking alternative to silicone, urethane, and other single-use materials.

I finally bought a couple of bottles to play with, so I did a test project. My experience and findings are below! (It's not a recipe blog, but if you want to skip the play-by-play and get to the TL;DR, it's under the big "In Summary" header near the bottom.)

First, if you aren't familiar with this material, SiliNOT! is a remeltable, reusable medium for making molds. Though its exact ingredients are not disclosed, it purports to nontoxic, food-safe, and compostable. It melts in a household microwave or double boiler and solidifies at room temperature (or in a refrigerator/freezer for faster results). The website is https://silinot.com/.

(I am not an affiliate, and have no connection to this company apart from having made one retail purchase from them. I just have a lot of casting experience and like trying out new products.)

The Positive Original

I’m still in the middle of a Vincent Valentine build, so I decided to test the SiliNOT! on his custom buttons. My original is a stack of various nonporous materials: an antique (probably Bakelite) coat button, an epoxy resin dome I cast using a mold I already had in my library, and some engraved Worbla’s Pearly Art for the raised detail. The button shanks won’t be added until the final casting, so the original can be mounted flat for the moldmaking process.

Sample Worbla on the left; completed button stack on the right:

The Mold

I built the mold container the same way I do for silicone pours, with the flat back of the button fixed to a styrene plate and a cylinder (actually a small paper cup with the bottom cut off) surrounding it for the walls. The lip of the cup is sealed all the way around with Monster Clay to prevent leaks.

Heating and Pouring

The SiliNOT! didn’t take long at all to heat up; I did maybe four or five 20-second bursts before it was completely fluid. The bottle does get rather warm, so hand protection isn’t a bad idea. If you have heat-resistant gloves, you can use those; I was working in my kitchen (yay for nontoxic stuff!), so I just grabbed an oven mitt with a silicone grip.

The melted SiliNOT! looks a bit like Luke Skywalker’s blue milk. It’s about the consistency of a yogurt smoothie and likes to pour in a thicker stream compared to silicone. While silicone can be stretched into a thin ribbon for delicate pours or chemically thinned with solvent for really tricky jobs, SiliNOT!'s viscosity is dependent on temperature and never seems to get quite as thin as silicone.

I’d automatically made my mold compact to conserve material (not really a concern with a reusable moldmaking material like SiliNOT!, but after using silicone for more than a decade, I’ve trained myself to be as efficient as possible), so the walls of my mold container were only about half or three quarters of an inch from my object. Because the target was so narrow, I found it difficult to accurately fill from the lowest area of the mold with the SiliNOT! The heavier pour also means more air can get trapped in or under the material.

Bubbles are one of the areas in which SiliNOT! is decidedly inferior to silicone. SiliNOT! has higher viscosity, so bubbles don’t want to rise to the surface without vigorous tapping, which can distort the mold edges or affect leveling depending on your mold container. The bubbles that do make their way to the surface are difficult to pop, even when poked with a sharp implement. Heat gun degassing doesn’t have much effect.

Since the bubble surface cools and skins over quickly, I actually had to use a tool and scoop some large bubbles completely out of the mold to allow the surface to level. Critically, the SiliNOT! is opaque, so you can’t spot bubbles clinging to the surface of your original. (This is why my first mold was a reject, and I had to repour. More on that below.)

Hardening

Once the surface had set, I carefully moved the mold into the refrigerator to cool faster. Here’s another area where some types of silicone can have an advantage: I typically use fast-curing Smooth-On products (because I always have random quantities left to use up after our casting workshops), so I rarely have to wait more than half an hour for a silicone mold to cure, regardless of its size or mass.

The SiliNOT! has to chill completely before handling, though, and discharging that amount of heat requires a fair amount of time even in a cool environment. My mold was pretty small, maybe 2 1/2” wide by 1” deep, and it still took around 40 minutes to cool completely. A larger, deeper mold could hold considerably more energy in the center, and might have to be left in the freezer for a couple of hours before use.

Demolding the Original

When the mold was completely chilled, I removed it from the refrigerator and popped it off the plastic plate I’d used for the base of the mold. The texture was very different from what I’d expected: Unlike other meltable materials (Monster Clay, et al.) that have a firm surface when cool, the SiliNOT! remains tacky, which means it promptly collects any debris that crosses its path. In my case, this meant I had to pick dog hair off the surface throughout the casting process (and I don’t want to think about what would happen if glitter had contaminated the work space).

I’d used a paper cup for my mold walls, which usually works fine with fast-curing silicone. But the SiliNOT! must have a high oil content, because the cup absorbed some of it:

Lesson learned; use only nonporous containers with this stuff.

The SiliNOT!! really wanted to cling to the edges of my original, so I had to go slow at first to avoid tearing the thin flanges of the mold off. However, it did demold nicely from the smooth surfaces, and preserved texture very well. You can see the Worbla pebbling and the engraving channels clearly in the mold (as well as some dust and dog hair, because I made the mistake of setting it down briefly):

Unfortunately, as you can see, a large bubble had stuck to my original and created a pit in the mold, so I decided to do a second mold pour. I figured I’d tear up the failed mold and put the pieces back in the bottle to remelt… and discovered I couldn’t. The mold would stretch and twist, but not tear. It also seemed to return to its original shape relatively faithfully. Here’s a video of me manhandling the mold:

As you can see, the SiliNOT! has much better stretch and recovery than many silicone products (there are silicones that stretch well -- some of the Dragon Skin products come to mind -- but they’re not typically marketed for moldmaking). This means it’s likely well suited to casting objects with moderate undercuts or oddly-shaped bits that need the mold to stretch during demolding.

You can cut the SiliNOT! easily with scissors, which is the recommended method for getting it back in the bottle when you’re ready to remelt.

Take Two

Using what I’d learned from the first pour, I did the second one inside a hard plastic ramekin. This gave me a bit more room to pour into the floor of the mold, reducing the bubble risk, and also eliminated the porous paper cup that had absorbed oil. I still had the issue with bubbles that didn’t want to pop, but there were fewer of them this time.

The ramekin made for a much cleaner mold, buuuuut there was ANOTHER BUBBLE right in the middle of the design. >.<

Take Three

Lather, rinse, repeat. Or in this case, melt, pour, chill.

This time I heated the SiliNOT! as much as I dared and did the absolute slowest, narrowest pour I could manage, giving the air extra time to escape as the mold was filled from the bottom. The risk with stringing out the pour like this is that in a thinner stream, the heat escapes faster, leading to uneven viscosity as the liquid fills the mold. I don’t think that’s a major problem for this particular piece, but it’s something to pay attention to as regards leveling and degassing, especially for larger molds that will take longer to fill.

The result of pour three:

/siiiiigh/ Well, at least the bubbles are smaller, this time. They may not show up enough to matter in the final cast. I’ll give it a try.

Casting

I had leftover workshop resin that was getting on toward the end of its shelf life, so I used Smooth-On Smooth-Cast 300 for my initial resin trial. It’s an opaque white resin with about a 10-minute cure time (the fast turnaround is why we use it for workshops).

Before pouring, I had to do a little mold cleanup where the SiliNOT! had managed to sneak under the edge of the Worbla (I think I’d loosened the corner of the star from prying it out of so many molds), but since the SiliNOT! stretches so well, it was pretty easy to invert it to get little scissors down into the bottom of the depression.

For the first cast, I didn’t use anything but the resin in order to get a baseline. Ideally I’d like to cold cast or dye the resin so I don’t have to worry about paint chipping, but since I’m doing a trial here (and need multiple buttons anyway) I figured some plain white extras wouldn’t hurt.

So, my first cast…

…smacked into a big problem, which I probably should have seen coming: The resin I’m using is a fast cure formula, which means it discharges a fair amount of heat as it's going through that rapid chemical reaction -- enough heat to melt the SiliNOT!, as it turned out. When I tried to demold it (after giving it a few extra minutes beyond label time to be sure it was done), the surface of the mold had melted to the resin and even embedded itself in a few places. It’s difficult to see the resin detail in the photos (my camera went into white balance panic mode with all the shades of white and blue), but you can see how pitted the formerly-smooth mold surface is.

In fairness to the SiliNOT!, the bottle does say that you should put the mold in the freezer for half an hour before casting high-temperature materials. But I assumed high-temperature material was something like candle wax or melted chocolate, rather than ordinary resin. (And the mold had just come out of the refrigerator.)

So, on to pour FOUR of the SiliNOT! mold…

Take Four

NGL, this is getting a little old. >.<

Fourth mold definitely needed some cleanup around the edges, and there are still a couple of tiny bubbles I can’t seem to get rid of, but it’s good enough for a test. (I’m starting to despair of using these for actual production, given how many times I’ve had to redo the molds because of bubbles...)

Deep in the recesses of my basement, I found some transparent epoxy resin with a 24-hour cure time -- much slower and lower-temperature than the Smooth-Cast. Since it cures clear, I went ahead and mixed in some metallic powder pigment on the off chance that I get a usable button out of this one. I had excess resin after mixing, so I poured that into my first mold, which has a bubble in the design but is otherwise fine. Two test pieces are better than one, right?

Results

Here are the results of the slow-curing resin out of mold #4:

Finally, a (mostly) clean cast!

As you can see, the detail reproduction is excellent -- certainly on par with the pulls from the silicone mold I ended up making while waiting on this set to cure (purely for time reasons; I couldn’t afford five days to cast the buttons using slow-curing resin, and with a silicone mold and fast-curing resin I could get them all done within a couple of hours).

However, you can also see a few spots where bits of the SiliNOT! embedded themselves in the final cast. Part of that may be due to design flaw in the original; I didn’t want to glue anything permanently to the antique button, and that resulted in a tiny gap between the button and the resin hemisphere. Silicone has enough strength to resist tearing out in that kind of area, but apparently the SiliNOT! doesn’t. The bits of mold around the outer edge seem to have stuck just to be difficult, as there was no structural reason for those to have become embedded in the resin. This means the mold could be damaged by successive casts, reducing its usable life and accuracy.

Still, the mold definitely produced decent results for a first cast, and a different shape might not have had as much of a problem with tearing off mold parts. The slow-curing resin is a bit of a limitation, but not a unique one (I use this same epoxy resin for any glass-clear casts I do, and only use the Smooth-Cast 300 for opaque items or things I need very quickly). I don’t personally use UV resin, but I’d be curious to learn how it performs with the SiliNOT!

IN SUMMARY:

Here’s the TL;DR on SiliNOT!

Pros

Cost effectiveness. This is the most obvious advantage of SiliNOT! over silicone; it’s (theoretically) infinitely reusable, and even with natural attrition/inevitable contamination from use, you can likely get over a hundred pours out of a bottle. That's a lot cheaper per use than silicone.

Non-toxicity. SiliNOT! is touted as food contact-safe, so you don’t have to panic if you get it on your skin or kitchen counters. While platinum-cure silicone is also relatively harmless (some varieties are labeled for food or life casting), other common moldmaking materials such as tin-cure silicone or urethane are not. (NOTE: Since the company is very hush-hush about what actually makes up the SiliNOT! secret formula, I do not know if it might release any vapors or fumes that would be irritating or harmful to pet birds. In general, I advise not doing any kind of casting around birds.)

Eco-friendliness. This is the biggest draw for me personally: Given the number of casting workshops I run and all the things I sell commercially, I have constant guilt about the amount of waste I generate for creative projects. In most areas of life I’m an aggressive reduce/reuse/recycler and try to use organic materials instead of synthetics whenever possible, so a mold that’s reusable and compostable is very appealing.

Ease of use. It’s honestly pretty hard to mess this up -- just microwave according to the directions and pour. No measuring, no A/B mixture, no concerns about chemical contamination from latex or sulfur, etc.

Shelf life. Unlike silicones, which have a shelf life of anywhere from six months to three years depending on storage conditions, the SiliNOT! purports to be shelf-stable. It's compostable, so don’t bury it in your yard, but otherwise it appears that it could be kept on hand for years.

Cons

Bubbles. Honestly the most irritating thing about this stuff for me. I’m used to being able to see bubbles forming as I pour, tap them to the surface, and remove them. The fact that I poured four molds of the same object and never once got one without bubbles is super irritating.

Stickiness. I’m not a big fan of the tacky surface texture, and while I haven’t done any cold casting yet, I can imagine that it would be very difficult to clean out any pigment or mica powder that got where you didn’t want it. I probably wouldn’t use this for any kind of cold casting that required isolated colored areas or changing colors between casts.

Set time. The SiliNOT! may take longer to cool than a fast silicone would to cure when dealing with larger molds, so it’s not ideal for projects with a really tight turnaround. (But cosplayers would never be casting something the night before a con, right? We always plan ahead and never, ever procrastinate!)

Library life. The SiliNOT! may or may not structurally degrade over time the way urethane, latex, and tin cure silicones do, but I noticed even in my very limited casts that it was prone to having tiny bits of the mold (particularly at edges) stick and pull off. While I keep most of my platinum silicone molds for years and reuse them, I don’t feel that the SiliNOT! molds would hold up to repeated casting, and they’re far more sensitive to ambient temperature, so they’re probably best used for short term only. (I also wonder about the possibility of oil leaching out in long-term storage.)

Comparative Ranking

Ranking it against other mold-making materials, I’d place SiliNOT! below platinum-cure silicone in terms of performance, but maybe somewhere in the neighborhood of urethane and tin-cure silicone. It's definitely superior to latex. (Though to be honest, I'd rank Play-Doh above latex. I hate working with that stuff.)

Factoring in cost and environmental impact, it beats out urethane and tin-cure silicone. I'm still not sure if I'd rank it above platinum-cure silicone, though... Silicone costs much more and isn't eco-friendly, but the performance and lifespan is significantly better, so it still makes more sense for some projects.

Alginate is another type of material entirely, but in some ways SiliNOT! is comparable to it -- both are more cost-effective than silicone, both are biodegradable, both are skin safe, and both have long shelf lives. But SiliNOT! is easier to use for beginners than alginate, which has to be mixed to the right consistency and has an extremely short lifespan once poured.

Overall, I would recommend SiliNOT! for:

People who want accurate, non-shrinking molds but don’t have the budget for platinum-cure silicone

People who are committed to eliminating waste from single-use materials, and are willing to trade off a little performance for a more eco-friendly material

Projects with smooth surfaces and no indentations/sharp edges/undercuts where bubbles might stick (e.g. cabochons; simple geometric forms)

Projects where you need only one or two casts of something, rather than many casts from the same mold

Casting oddly-shaped pieces around which the mold needs to stretch in order to demold

Use with slow-curing resins that do not generate much heat

I would NOT recommend SiliNOT! for:

Extremely complex or detailed pieces, or pieces with a lot of surface texture that bubbles might stick to

Two-part molds

Projects requiring many identical casts out of the same mold

Molds that you intend to add to your library for future or repeat casting

Use with fast-curing resins, melted wax, melted Monster Clay, or any other material that emits heat

Cold casting with precise color application

My Overall Opinion

It's... okay? I will almost certainly keep SiliNOT! in my toolkit for certain specific applications. It's MUCH cheaper over the long term, I love the idea of recycling mold material, and there are some projects for which it will likely perform very well (those listed in the above bullet points). I will also admit that three days of working with it does not constitute a comprehensive familiarity with the product, and it might be the sort of thing that you get better at working with after more practice. (Just learning how to eliminate bubbles would go a long way toward making me adopt this for more projects!)

However, I don't quite buy the "better than silicone" tagline. It's definitely more difficult to get a perfect result, and there are some projects for which platinum-cure silicone is always going to be more reliable (e.g. high-temperature casting, mass production, large-scale life casting).

For those looking for a recommendation of whether or not to buy, I'd say look at your project budget and the applications for which you're going to be making molds, and let those factors guide which mold material you go with. People doing some kinds of projects are likely going to find this a godsend, while those doing different projects would probably hate working with it.

[yyh4ever]

Yu Yu Hakusho x JAM HOME MADE JEWELRY COLLECTION

❒ Official Site: jamhomemadeonlineshop (overseas customers service is available)

❒ Sales: from May 31, 2023

This jewelry collection focuses on the Three Great Youkai of the Makai, and the main characters related to them: Raizen and Yusuke Urameshi, Mukuro and Hiei, Yomi and Kurama. The symbolic visuals of the 6 characters, as well as their spirit and demon powers, have been incorporated into this original jewelry design.

❒ Jewelry:

Yusuke Spirit Gun Necklace

This necklace is inspired by Yusuke's signature shot, the "Spirit Gun". The blue topaz stone and the silver pedestal express the moment when his spirit energy converges at his fingertip just before he fires it.

Price: 16,500 yen

Material: 925 silver, blue topaz

Chain Size: 40+10(cm)

Youko Kurama Ring

The main motif of this ring is Kurama's rose whip.

Price: 15,400 yen

Material: 925 silver (Color/finish: rose gold plating)

Sizes: 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21

Imiko Hiei Necklace

Hiei was born a cursed child (imiko) to a koorime (ice maiden), clad in a powerful fiery demonic aura. The three-dimensional effect of the amulets enveloping his baby body and his mother's hiruiseki stone are represented with blue topaz.

Price: 16,500 yen

Material: 925 silver, blue topaz

Chain Size: 40+10(cm)

Toushin Raizen Ring

Yusuke's youkai father, Toushin (god of war) Raizen is one of the Three Great Youkai of the Demon World. The pattern of Raizen's face is engraved on the surface of the ring, and his words, "Oh, I'm so hungry" (あー‥.ハラへったな), are engraved on the inside, expressing his oath not to eat humans.

Price: 6,500 yen

Material: 925 silver

Sizes: 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21

Captive Mukuro Necklace

Mukuro is one of the Three Great Youkai of the Demon World. The motif of this necklace overlaps with that of Hiei's.

Her face is wrapped in a spell of bandages, at the time of her first appearance when she seldom showed her true face to others because, according to her, "it is difficult to move when your face is widely known".

Price: 6,500 yen

Material: 925 silver

Cain size: 40+10 (cm)

Yomi's Demon Absorption Wall Bangle

In the past, Yomi worked as a thief in partnership with Kurama, but later became one of the Three Great Youkai of the Demon World. The pattern of his technique "Ma Koi Ryū･Renpa Han Shō Heki" (魔古忌流煉破反衝壁/Demon Absorption Wall) is carved into a voluminous bangle, and colored with epoxy resin.

Price: 17,600 yen

Material: 925 silver (Color/Finish: epoxy resin)

Sizes:

Small size: Width: 58; Height: 4.5; Depth: 45 (mm)

Medium size: Width: 66; Height: 4.5; Depth: 51 (mm)

❒ Package

For the package, they have prepared an original box with the “Yu Yu Hakusho x JAM HOME MADE” logo.

[printhutt123]

Neon Sign Board Manufacturer in Delhi

Print Hutt is a premier Neon Sign Board Manufacturer based in Delhi, combining expertise and craftsmanship to illuminate spaces with distinctive signage. Renowned for meticulous attention to detail, they offer versatile designs, from minimalist to intricate, ensuring each neon sign is a unique work of art. With a commitment to client collaboration, Print Hutt tailors neon signs for diverse occasions, including weddings, birthdays, and commercial branding. Their creations transcend borders, captivating a global audience. As a beacon of Delhi's artistic expression, Print Hutt continues to shape the city's neon sign landscape with a radiant fusion of creativity and quality.

Read more:-

[cyclesprefectpress]

#op how do you make the custom metal logo plate @xactodreams

i don't make them myself, i prep the art from digital files and get the magnesium plates from evergreen engravers! been buying from them for years and years, totally consistent & they're close by to me. I hear good things about beaver engraving in oregon as well, but i don't know much about specific engravers outside the pnw. the engraving is a pretty cool process, there's a photoexposure step that fixes a protective film to the surface of the plate, and then some kind of. acid mist part that removes the negative space with a sloping edge.

idk how much context you have for commercial letterpress backend so ignore me if i'm repeating things you know! letterpress classes might do at least one project where you make plates directly from a digital file like these, but they'll usually use photopolymer rather than magnesium. It's a way cheaper material (NOT worse to print from, seriously, there's just a lot of other factors that make magnesium worth the price for some things), but the file preparation is basically the same. vector art is vastly preferable, use if at all possible, but raster is workable as long as it's at least 600 ppi. 1200 is ideal.

i also use photopolymer for some things, & the differences between polymer & magnesium plates are……complicated. also there's a bunch of options within each category about thickness & engraving depth & mounting & other file prep finessing etc etc, anyway! happy to answer any specific questions about it if you have them but that's the short version.

[page-98]

Muse: Adelaide

"Enjoy your vacation"

That's what the memo Edward had telegraphed. Made her waste all the effort leaving her hotel to the location, paying for the message. Just to remind her to enjoy her vacation. A planned vacation in Portugal because he got a rumor that an old "associate" was now living here. She was to make sure it was in fact the same man who conned him out of millions of dollars. Then if it was to kill him with a certain gun.

A week and a half ago, he came to visit while she was still packing. The arrogance of the man, her employer, who killed her mother out of sheer jealousy. Still flaunted that he will always have leverage over her. Her emotions will always be mixed when it comes to him. He calmly strutted over, making idol chit-chat before revealing the real reason. He presented a small weapon case. He opened it and found a gold-plated, ivory, handle revolver. It was well crafted and customized. Then the story began. He picked up the gun and examined it, his piercing blue eyes, apparently remenicing.

"Jaime Santiago and I were once friends. He came to me, in his usually over-confidante manner. He needed to borrow ten million to start up this business. The deal was to lend him ten million and he would repay me 20 million. This gun, was precious to him, that I did believe. He gave it to me as equity, a loan. As a businessman myself and a good friend, I gave him six years to repay the loan. Then six years passed and he didn't want to pay...then months passed. The same BS that his business wasn't quite making it..then a few months later I've come to realize he had split his business into three and altogether they were worth well over 300 million," he paused placing the gun back in its custom casing.

He then picked up a bullet, it too was gold and she noticed there was some sort of engravement on it. On all the bullets that lay in the case. "And he couldn't pay a measly twenty mill," he seethed, disappointed and disgust apparent. "So I hired a contract on him," he said simply putting back the bullet. "He ran, he hid. He's been hiding for about twelve years now," he finished. He paused as he stared at her. She stared back unflinching. He leaned in closer and whispered. "I don't care how you do it, as long as you use this gun and put these bullets threw his head," Edward noted.

Now she was in Ribeira at a bustling cafe at night. She sipped on a latte and kept her eyes on the newspaper. She looked like a rich local who frequented the area. She didn't know Portuguese, she was studying the language in the meantime. She had to admit the views were nice. However, the views were nice everywhere she went. Edward was part of the High Table, they traveled to all the best locations the world had to offer. Though this....was supposed to be a grace period, a vacation. Yet here she was spying on a man in his late 50s buying drinks for anyone who would lend him an ear.

She watched as Jamie Santiago started to stumble off. Apparently a bit tipsy, a bit done. She began to tail him. The city was alive at night, with people partying late. Though she knew sooner or later there would be an opportunity. She kept her distance until he turned down a small alleyway. Just big enough for a small car to pass through. She quickened her pace as she put her hand in her purse. The gun was already loaded with the bullets with vindicta engraved on them. Santiago stopped as he tripped over a small pothole. Adelaide smirked as she neared pulling out the gun out of her purse.

@nytehavyn-circle

[artdecoandmodernist]

George Barbier, Turandot, Princess of China, 1922

BARBIER, GEORGE; and SCHMIED, F.-L. Personnages de Comédie. Text by Albert Flament. Illustrated throughout with color wood engravings by Schmied after Barbier, comprising half-title illustration, Harlequin vignette on title, 12 full- and 2 half-page plates, 22 four-line initials, tail-pieces, decorative devices within, and borders around the text, many heightened in silver and gold. Small folio, original illustrated wrappers featuring design within metallic marbled background, very light toning to borders; usual offsetting to facing text leaves; custom marbled cloth, board chemise and slipcase. number 103 of 150 copies signed by barbier. Ritchie 11; Carteret IV: 157. Paris: