#Christian Bérard patchouli paris

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Patchouli Paris de Guerlain

L’essence d’un Paris nocturne, Patchouli Paris de Guerlain. Patchouli Paris de Guerlain Une facette de la capitale encore jamais explorée par Guerlain avec la nouvelle Eau de Parfum L’Art & La Matière, Patchouli Paris. Patchouli Paris de Guerlain Patchouli Paris de Guerlain est un patchouli inspiré par les nuits parisiennes et leur magnétique. Le patchouli fait donc son show car il est…

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002/ DIOR

HISTORY/

‘A woman’s perfume tells me more about her than her handwriting.’ So said Christian Dior (b. 1905) one of the greatest-ever couturiers – but a man whose name is also synonymous, all over the world, with the art of perfume. As design careers go, Christian Dior‘s didn’t start well. His parents – who lived in a grand villa on the Normandy coast – refused to let him attend a school of fine arts, telling him that it wouldn’t help him find a real job. He kept his parents quiet, initially, by enrolling for Paris’s Institute of Political Sciences – but little did his parents realise that this was also a door to Paris’s exotic night-life. Dior drifted happily into the company of artists and writers who later went on to become among the greatest of their time: painter Christian Bérard, Jean Cocteau, poet Max Jacob and actor Marcel Herrand all became friends. And another arty friend asked Christian Dior – who really longed to be an artist himself – if he’d be interested in becoming a partner in his new gallery. With funding from Dior’s father, it went on to showcase works by Paul Klee, Otto Dix, Salvador Dalí, Joan Miro and Raoul Dufy, among many others, But sadly, the Wall Street crash of 1929 made for few buyers – and badly dented the Dior family fortunes – and this adventure ended when tuberculosis forced Christian Dior to leave Paris, in 1934. On his return, post-recovery, an impoverished Dior looked for work. A friend suggested he take up fashion illustration; he dedicated himself to the task, studying the great designers – Molyneux, Schiaparelli,Lanvin – and his dress designers were sought out by couturier Robert Piguet. The paper Le Figaro gave Dior‘s vibrant sketches a weekly page – and his hat designs did well, too. During the Second World War, Dior worked as a designer beneath couturier Lucien Lelong, then in 1945 got the opportunity to head up the house of Gaston. A great believer in omens and fortune-tellers – Dior had once been told ‘You will be penniless, but women will be good to you and it is thanks to them you will succeed’ – he turned to his favourite psychic, Madame Delahaye, for advice when offered two proposals to open his own couture house. ‘Accept, she ordered me,’ recalled Dior. ‘Accept! You must create the house of Christian Dior.’ And on 12th February 1947, Christian Dior turned the austere post-wartime world on its head, creating the most headline-grabbing collection ever known. Overnight, Christian Dior‘s ‘New Look’ – with its full, swirling skirts, wasp-waisted jackets and bold use of colour – became, as Vogue puts it, ‘catnip to a luxury-starved populace eager to return to the rituals of grooming and dressing up’. But women didn’t just want to look good. They wanted to smell beautiful, too. Soon after the success of his ground-breaking New Look, Dior recalled, ‘Miss Dior was born. It was born of those Provençal evenings filled with fireflies when green jasmine serves as a counterpoint to the melody of the night and the earth.’ And Miss Dior became one of the great fragrance icons of the 20th Century. Allegedly, as Dior was preparing for the launch of his first perfume, the name for the fragrance had yet to be invented. Then his sister, Catherine Dior, walked into the salon of 30 Avenue Montaigne. Dior’s muse, Mitzah Bricard, announced: ‘Here’s Miss Dior!’ On the day of the show, the salon was sprayed with this bewitching perfume – and clients and journalists left with its scent on their clothes and their skin. Eau Fraîche also appeared during the Dior years: a summery splash by perfumer Edmond Roudnitska, uplifting with mandarin and lemon, with oak moss and vanilla in its base. Scent had always been incredibly important to Dior. Eternally superstitious, he slipped a sprig of lily of the valley into them hem of every haute couture dress, and always kept it with him. (He had his own hot-houses, expressly for the purpose of growing this favourite flower.) So it was natural that in 1956, he should launch a fragrance – another Roudnitska creation – based on this favourite flower. Sadly, Dior died just a year after the stunning lily of the valley-based Diorissimo was first unveiled (see the detail above of a beautiful vintage bottle). But happily for perfume-lovers, the creative spark ignited by Christian Dior became a flame that burns brightly to this day. Dior has become known for fragrant landmarks. The wonderfully shareable, zingy-zesty Eau Sauvage (1966). The ground-breaking Poison (1985), one of the boldest fragrance innovations of the already-bold 80s. More recently, the hypnotising J’Adore, an opulent golden floral, which has evolved into many different concentrations ‘signed’ by FrançoisDemachy (see below). And lately, we’ve been able to bathe our senses in new interpretations of the classic Miss Dior, including the sparkling floral Miss Dior Blooming Bouquet (see right), which glorifies peony, mandarin, Damascus rose and white musk – ‘like a dress embroidered with a thousand flowers…’ Parfums Christian Dior is one of the few perfume houses with its own in-house ‘nose’, François Demachy, whose role is Head of Olfactory Development. Demachy was raised in the heartland of perfumery, in Grasse, where ‘we learned about natural ingredients. I took an apprenticeship in a plant there where I passed my time learning different talents. We actually had a contract for the manufacturing of natural ingredients; we had a different rapport with them. It was very helpful afterwards because I approached things differently in my creations – and this was specific to growing up in Grasse.’ Dior La Collection Privée is the ultimate expression of this perfumer’s talents. ‘Rare ingredients, daring olfactory statements and creation that knows no bounds,’ is how Demachy sums it up. ‘This collection reflects the freedom that only true luxury can provide.’ Demachy himself choose and selects ingredients from around the world: Arabian jasmine, Tuscan iris, tuberose, patchouli, neroli, Calabrian bergamot. (source)

/J’ADORE IN JOY

One of the pillars of the current perfume line from Dior, J`Adore, gets a new edition in the spring of 2017 called J`Adore In Joy. The fragrance is announced as the scent of joy, love for life, instant fun and the exclamation of spring. It is said to be a daring fruity- floral with a salty taste.

In-house perfumer Francois Demachy adds an unexpected and unusual touch of salt to the warm floral composition, inspired by the natural phenomenon and finest gourmet salt "Fleur de Sel". This salty accord in the top of the composition emphasizes the combination of white flowers that includes sambac jasmine, neroli, tuberose and ylang-ylang from Grasse. An accord of ripe peaches in the perfume’s base gives the whole composition a fruity touch.

J'adore In Joy comes in a renewed bottle with liquid gold-peach-colored sparkles that diffuse the light thanks to the convex bottom. (source)

/WEBSITE & CONCEPT

The website page for J’Adore in Joy offers a unique and delicate view on the product, the film and the theme.

I believe the description on the fragrance is perfectly shown by the addition of the images and the transitioning effects that change one to the other while scrolling down.  This is an excellent way to engage with the consumer: the first thing the consumer sees is what matters. The scent notes are the essence of the fragrance and the images are cleverly chosen. 

Clear yet sophisticated graphics are also when looking at the range. The bottle’s details and colours are found again in the waves in the background. This creates harmony and makes the consumer feel comfortable. 

CHARLIZE THERON, THE INCARNATION OF J’ADORE

The new J’adore campaign takes us on a journey of the senses to the origins of femininity. Charlize Theron emerges more luminous and whole than ever.

The film is powerful yet romantic. A stunning Charlize Theron embodies sensuality and beauty, expressing her inner beauty and delivering a message of serenity and self love. What is most interesting about the fragrance is the theme explained in the ABSOLUTE FEMININITY page. It supports the film and gives a deeper meaning to the fragrance. 

FEMININE BY NATURE

In the beginning, there was woman. J’adore is her incarnation. Charlize Theron, the icon. At the heart of the basic elements, when emotions laid bare are transformed into vital energy, she rediscovers her true nature. Renewed, triumphant, she is reborn into the world.

(source)

/SWOT ANALYSIS

/STRENGTHS/ Strong theme, strong brand image, cleaver use of website.

/WEAKNESSES/ The fact that they only focus on both sex individually. 

/OPPORTUNITIES/ Create a unisex scent.

/THREATS/ The theme of femininity could become too classic and retrograde.