#Chitral hiking trails
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Chitral Valley, nestled in the majestic Hindu Kush mountains
đď¸ Majestic Views Await in Chitral Valley Chitral Valley, nestled in the majestic Hindu Kush mountains, offers some of the most breathtaking landscapes in Pakistan. A paradise for hikers and adventurers, Chitral is renowned for its scenic beauty, snow-capped peaks, and lush green valleys. Trekking through its trails provides an unforgettable experience, with awe-inspiring views around everyâŚ
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Discover Northern Pakistan: A Hiking Adventure You Canât Not Miss
Ahh, Northern Pakistanâs summer season becomes pleasant, when the rest of the country is burning hot in the summer. Discover Northern Pakistan Hiking Adventures escapes you from this. Embark on an adventure trip that allows you to explore the hidden gems of Pakistan and enjoy nature. The snow-covering high mountains of the Karakorum, Himalayas, and Hindukush attract adventure lovers from all over the world.
If you are a fan of adventure seeking the next thrilling expedition.  Look no further than Northern Pakistan, a hidden gem brimming with awe-inspiring landscapes and unforgettable hiking trails. From snow-capped peaks to lush valleys, this region offers a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. In this guide, weâll walk you through the captivating allure of Northern Pakistan and why it should be at the top of your travel bucket list.
Unveiling the Majesty of Northern Pakistan Adventure Activities
Nestled amidst the towering Himalayas and the majestic Karakoram Range, Northern Pakistan boasts some of the most breathtaking scenery on the planet. Its pristine beauty has been a well-kept secret among intrepid travelers, but now, the world is beginning to take notice of its unparalleled charm. Moreover, the Hindukush Mountains in Chitral in the North West and Gilgit-Baltistan have a unique beauty. Above all, several adventure potential and attractions are still untapped and looking to explore.
In Northern Pakistan, youâll discover incredible hiking and walking spots that take you from one valley to another, crossing high mountain passes. Some of the most stunning places in Pakistan are found in these mountainous areas. Trekking in the Hindukush is special because you get to pass through summer pastures where local communities live. Itâs an exciting chance to meet the locals. Additionally, youâll encounter various cultures and traditions as you move from one village to another. This adds to the travel experience, making it unlike any other place in the world.
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Exploring the Hidden Gems of Ziarat Balochistan
Ziarat Balochistan is a small town in the north of the province of Balochistan. Balochistan province is a destination that offers much more than meets the eye. With its stunning natural beauty, beautiful mountains, and intriguing history, Ziarat Balochistan is a haven for adventure seekers and culture enthusiasts alike. From exploring ancient caves to embarking on thrilling hiking trails, this off-the-beaten-path destination promises an unforgettable experience that will leave visitors wanting more. It is one of the most famous tourist attractions and the best place in Balochistan for sightseeing. Best places to visit in Gwadar Welcome to Ziarat Balochistan â an oasis of tranquility amidst the chaos of modern life. Tucked away in the remote corners of Pakistan's largest province lies this hidden paradise where nature reigns supreme and history comes alive. With its majestic mountains, lush forests, and distinct cultural identity, Ziarat Balochistan beckons those seeking solace in the embrace of Mother Nature while immersing themselves in an enchanting tapestry woven with tales from centuries past. The weather in Ziarat city is Pleasant throughout the year, so you can visit here anytime.
Ziarat Valley, Balochistan
The Beauty of Ziarat Valley
Ziarat Valley surrounded by majestic mountains and lush green forests is a haven for adventure seekers and nature enthusiasts alike. As you drive through the winding roads, the enchanting beauty of this place unfolds before your eyes. Ziarat city is not just about its natural beauty though; it holds a rich heritage as well. The picturesque boasts a jewel of historical significance: Ziarat Residency Balochistan. It carries immense importance as it served as the final residence of the founding father of Pakistan, Quaid-e-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah. 10 Days tour to Swat, Kalam, Kailash and Chitral The enchanting valley of Ziarat city in Balochistan transforms into a winter wonderland between November and March, captivating all who lay eyes upon its snowy splendor. This breathtaking sight is particularly awe-inspiring for those accustomed to the hustle and bustle of city life, as they witness nature's quiet mastery over the land. As snowflakes delicately kiss the ground, a serene calm descends upon the entire valley, accentuating its natural beauty. which is why it is counted among Pakistanâs top tourist destinations.
Location of Ziarat
Ziarat is a city in the Ziarat District, Balochistan Pakistan. It is 130 kilometers from Quetta and will take you around 2 hours and 30 minutes to reach. The place is famous due to Ziarat residency in Balochistan, the final place of Quaid-e-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah.
Attractions in Ziarat Balochistan
Ziarat, a picturesque town, is one of the most famous places to visit in Balochistan. It is known for its refreshing climate and hosts an array of attractions bound to captivate travelers. Here we are discussing some notable attractions in Ziarat Pakistan.
Quaid-e-Azam Residency, a historically significant landmark
In the final days of his life, Quaid-e-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah, the founding father of Pakistan, fell seriously ill. His doctors recommended that he find solace in a tranquil location to regain his strength. It was at this time that Jinnah chose Ziarat Residency in Balochistan as his peaceful abode. This place provided an ideal retreat for the ailing leader. Surrounded by stunning natural beauty and serenity, it offered him respite from the noise and chaos of daily life. Hingol Nation Park | Wonder of Pakistan Today, Ziarat Residency Balochistan stands as more than just a historic building; it stands as a testament to the unwavering spirit and determination of Quaid-e-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah. Visiting this humble abode allows us to connect with the final chapter in his remarkable journey toward independence and reminds us of the sacrifices made by those who fought for our nationhood.
Ziarat Residency during snow fall
Juniper Forest Ziarat
For nature lovers, Ziarat Pakistan is also home to the stunning Juniper Forests. These ancient forests are home to some of the oldest juniper trees in the world. Walking through these dense groves feels like stepping into another era, where time stands still and nature reigns supreme. Attractions on Makran Coastal Highway The atmosphere within these forests is nothing short of mystical, with sunlight filtering through the thick foliage and creating enchanting patterns on the forest floor. Hiking trails wind their way through this ecological wonderland, offering adventurers an opportunity to immerse themselves in its tranquility while being surrounded by unique flora and fauna.
Shrine of Baba Kharwari
The Kharwari Baba Shrine is a hidden gem nestled in the picturesque valley of Ziarat city. This mystical shrine holds immense spiritual significance for the locals and attracts countless pilgrims from far and wide. 08 Days Autumn Trip to North of Pakistan People visiting this shrine often pray for physical healing as well as help with their emotional and spiritual struggles. The tranquil atmosphere surrounding the shrine adds to its allure, creating an aura of serenity that engulfs every visitor who steps foot inside. The sense of peace and tranquility here is palpable, making it an ideal spot for those to connect with their inner selves.
Ziarat Pakistan Landscape
Prospect Point
Prospect Point is nestled just 6 kilometers away from the bustling city of Ziarat Pakistan, Balochistan province, and is undoubtedly a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. Situated at an awe-inspiring altitude of 2713 meters above sea level, this picturesque spot offers visitors a splendid and uninterrupted view of the renowned Koshki Valley. As you stand atop Prospect Point, it feels as though time has frozen; the panoramic vista before you commands attention with its sheer grandeur. During such moments, one realizes why Ziarat Pakistan is one of the best places to visit in Balochistan.
Hanna Lake
Hanna Lake, nestled in the breathtaking Urak Valley of Balochistan, has long been regarded as Quetta's most cherished tourist destination. Surrounded by towering mountains it offers a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. While its natural beauty alone is enough to captivate visitors, Hanna Lake is one of the most visited places in Balochistan.
Hannah Lake, Quetta, Balochistan
Urak Valley
Urak Valley is nestled approximately 21 km from Quetta in Balochistan. This tourist destination boasts breathtaking landscapes and offers visitors a unique experience far from the crowds typically found at other popular destinations. The valley is surrounded by mountains which is a great place for picnickers and adventure seekers. Urak Valley is the mesmerizing blend of rugged mountains, delicious fruits, and fresh springs that are found region.
Hotels in Ziarat Pakistan
When exploring Ziarat's mesmerizing beauty in Balochistan, finding the perfect accommodation is essential. Luckily, this picturesque town offers a range of hotels that cater to every traveler's needs and preferences. From cozy guesthouses nestled amidst towering pine trees to luxurious resorts offering breathtaking views of the surrounding valleys, there is no shortage of options for a comfortable stay in Ziarat hotels. 7-Day Private Tour of Pakistan with Pick-Up One popular choice among tourists is the famous PTDC (Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation) Resort situated in the heart of this picturesque town. This charming retreat not only provides comfort but also offers an enchanting experience with its rustic wooden cottages and serene surroundings. Another excellent option is the Ziarat Inn Hotel, which not only provides comfortable accommodations but also gives visitors a glimpse into Ziarat's rich cultural heritage through its architecture and decor. Whether you are looking for budget-friendly options or seeking a luxurious getaway, Ziarat city has it all. The hospitality of the locals combined with these excellent hotel choices will ensure that your visit to this hidden gem in Balochistan becomes an unforgettable experience. So, pack your bags and get ready for a stay that will leave you rejuvenated and longing to return soon.
Ziarat Weather
The weather in Ziarat, Balochistan is a fascinating aspect of this enchanting region. Nestled at an elevation of more than 8,343 feet above sea level, Ziarat Pakistan experiences a unique climate that sets it apart from the rest of Balochistan. Known for its cool summers and freezing winters, this hill station offers visitors a refreshing respite from the scorching heat that engulfs much of Pakistan during the summer months. Gadani Beach of Balochistan One of the most remarkable features of Ziarat's weather is its snowfall during winter. Blanketing the hills and valleys in a pristine layer of white, this natural phenomenon transforms the entire landscape into a picturesque winter wonderland. It's not uncommon to see families and tourists alike indulge in snowball fights or build breathtakingly intricate snowmen while cherishing these magical moments. But Ziarat isn't solely defined by its chilly winters; it also features pleasantly mild summers with temperatures ranging from 25 to 30 degrees Celsius on average. This makes it an ideal destination for those seeking refuge from the stifling heat waves prevalent in other parts of Pakistan. The soothing breeze that sweeps through the juniper forests adds to the tranquil ambiance - creating an idyllic escape where one can unwind, relax, and rejuvenate amidst nature's serenity. Whether you visit during winter or summer, one thing remains constant â Ziarat weather never fails to mesmerize its visitors all year round. For those seeking a unique travel experience off the beaten path, Ziarat Balochistan is an ideal choice. Far from the bustling crowds of mainstream destinations, this hidden paradise invites you to reconnect with nature, immerse yourself in local culture, and create memories that will last a lifetime. So, pack your bags and prepare to be enchanted by the allure of Ziarat Balochistan - a destination filled with surprises waiting to be discovered. Read the full article
#HannaLake#ZiaratBalochistan#ZiaratPakistan#ZiaratResidency#ZiaratResidencyBalochistan#ZiaratWeather
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In the 1960s and 70s, with free love coursing through the air, hippies travelled overland from Europe to Turkey and through Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Nepal and India, route called Hippie Trail.
Hippie Trail: Hippies â the pioneers of so much of todayâs tourism â took to this route because it could be travelled cheaply (mainly via hitchhiking, buses and trains) and was as far away from the evil capitalist West as possible. Also, plenty of mystique was attached to these far-flung lands, a desirable quality for people seeking spiritual enlightenment at the same time as a good time.
The European capitals of free love and dope, London and Amsterdam, were the usual starting points for the journey. An ideal route wound through Europe via Yugoslavia and Greece (with a possible island side-trip) to Istanbul. From here, permutations varied, but a typical path went to Ankara, then through Iran to Tehran, to Kabul in Afghanistan, through the Khyber Pass to Peshawar and Lahore in Pakistan, and then on to Kashmir, Delhi and Goa in India.
Origins of the Hippie Trail
The roots of the Hippie Trail probably lie with the overland expeditions of the mid-1950s, when small groups of wealthy individuals or sponsored students would travel east from England by Land Rover or Bedford Dormobile to climb mountains or carry out scientific studies and surveys, often publishing accounts of their travels afterwards.
Many who read of such pioneering trips were less interested in science or mountaineering than with the descriptions of the exotic places and cultures on the way. Air travel was in its infancy and prohibitively expensive, but for those seeking adventure the prospect of an epic overland journey was both attractive and increasingly affordable.
The first established British bus company to ply the overland route was The Indiaman in 1957, closely followed by Swagman Tours (later renamed Asian Greyhound). These began as one-man operations catering for a handful of adventurous travellers, and as the economy boomed and the market grew, other bus companies started to spring up in the 1960s.
Advent of the Hippies
The first overland travellers who might be described as hippies appeared in about 1967, when the term became shorthand for just about anyone with long hair. The concept of the âmystic eastâ was gaining interest, and after The Beatles visited India in a blaze of publicity in 1968 the number of young people hitting the road from western Europe began to increase dramatically.
And they werenât all Europeans. Americans and Canadians crossed the Atlantic to take part, Australians and New Zealanders had a strong backpacking tradition and found the route convenient. Westerners of all nationalities were represented.
They had many reasons for going: some sought spiritual enlightenment, some were escaping from a rigid conventional lifestyle, some saw opportunities for profit, and some just wanted to see the world. They all had a sense of adventure, but not all of them could be described as hippies â many were simply keen to explore the overland route to the east, first blazed by Marco Polo.
But from the late 1960s onwards the largest contingent, united by a common interest, were the young people with long hair who gave the hippie trail its name â and what defined the hippie trail was that it led to the major hashish-producing centres of the world.
Afghanistan, Chitral, Kashmir, Nepal â familiar names to the pot-smokers of the sixties and seventies, most of whom knew very little else about the countries where their herb of choice was cultivated. But for the next ten years or so they set off in their thousands to look for it.
Overland bus companies sprang up to cater for them, advertising cheap tickets in the âunderground pressâ. They shared the road with a motley procession of private cars, vans, minibuses, even motorbikes. Many vehicles never made it all the way, and many more never made it back. It was, after all, a journey of over 6,000 miles in each direction, and it took in high mountain passes, scorching deserts, and some very rough roads.
Popular legend tells of the Magic Bus that left from Amsterdam â except that it never did. The company was merely a booking agency and didnât actually own any buses. Passengers were found places aboard the scores of independent coaches that plied the route. Other companies such as Budget Bus did actually run their own small fleet of vehicles.
Public transport was another option. Although the railway in those days ended in eastern Turkey, from Istanbul onwards there were cheap local buses, and western drivers also picked up passengers from the cityâs famous Pudding Shop, where rides in independent vehicles could often be arranged. Access to cheap rail travel resumed in Pakistan and India.
People also hitch-hiked, particularly on the way home, though this was usually only possible in Europe, and the cost of public transport was extremely low in Asia. Westerners who could drive were sometimes paid to take vehicles from Germany to Lebanon or Iran, another way of affording the trip.
The Hippie Trail Route
The route of the hippie trail essentially started at Istanbul, the point at which all roads from Europe converged. From here the direct route led straight across Turkey, though some headed south for Lebanon, for centuries the main hashish producer of the Middle East.
From Turkey the route continued across Iran, then a secular country run by the Shah, and on to Afghanistan, the first major destination of the hippie trail, a land where foreigners were made very welcome and where a large proportion of the population used hashish themselves.
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After Afghanistan the trail offered many diversions. On entering Pakistan some would head north towards Chitral, but the majority crossed the country and entered India, where a trip up to Kashmir was an immediate option for enthusiastic potheads. Northern India also offered Manali, another popular destination for hippies and another centre of marijuana cultivation.
In winter months most hippies would head south for the beaches of Goa, where hashish was always freely available (though it was not actually produced there). But in the summer the hippie trail ended in the mountains of Nepal, where until 1973 there were many hashish shops operating legally, and where there was no real difficulty obtaining the worldâs finest charas afterwards.
Visas, where required, could be obtained easily at the borders or towns en route. British passport holders did not require a visa to stay in India long-term.
Always A Freak â Never A Hippie
Those who went on the hippie trail often referred to it as âgoing to Indiaâ, a shorthand way of describing the trip. They did not call themselves âhippiesâ anyway, preferring the term âfreaksâ, and in Kathmandu everyone knew where âFreak Streetâ was (though the official name was Jochen Tole).
While other travellers â those who were not âfreaksâ â quite reasonably refer to the route as âthe overlandâ, there really was a distinct hippie trail. In every major stop along the way there were hotels, restaurants and cafes that catered almost exclusively to the pot-smoking westerners, who networked with each other as they wandered east and west â there were no Lonely Planet guides in those days, and (of course) there was no internet.
This influx of long-haired western youth must have been a curiosity to the locals, who were largely unaccustomed to tourists of any sort back then. But they were generally hospitable, and many found welcome ways to derive extra income. Their experience was caricatured in the 1971 Bollywood movie Hare Rama Hare Krishna, which featured a scene involving chillum-smoking hippies, accompanied by the enormously popular Asha Bosle song Dum Maro Dum.
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The hippies tended to spend more time interacting with the local population than traditional sightseeing tourists â they had no interest in luxury accommodation, even if they could afford it (which few could), and some would âgo nativeâ after a fashion, particularly in India. Of course, they were still tourists really, albeit of a different sort, and hedonism was the primary aim.
There were casualties, undoubtedly. Staying healthy could be difficult, particularly in Afghanistan, and even hippies can suffer from culture shock. Some would get severely ill, or run out of money, and have to be flown home. Others would wind up in jail, not a pleasant experience anywhere and particularly tough in a third world country.
Most survived, however, and lived to tell the tale on their return, often inspiring others to follow in their footsteps. And a few stayed on, found ways to support themselves, and still live in India.
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The End of The Road
The classic hippie trail came to an end in 1979, when Islamic revolution in Iran and the Russian invasion of Afghanistan closed the overland route to western travellers. Lebanon had already lapsed into civil war, Chitral and Kashmir became less inviting due to tensions in the area, and even Nepal eventually lost its peace and tranquility.
Air travel had by now become affordable and Goa became the main centre of the hippie scene, based around the village of Anjuna, where hippies had been renting houses for many years before any hotels were built to accommodate the massive influx of tourists in the 1980s.
Those who flew to Goa in later years to partake of the hippie lifestyle doubtless enjoyed themselves, and the more adventurous will have travelled around India and learned from the experience. But the overland hippie trail, which lasted little more than ten years, was gone forever.
Simon Watts talks to Richard Gregory, who did the Hippie Trail in 1974.
A Brief History of the Hippie Trail, Overland from Europe to Asia in search of Hashish by Richard Gregory
More and detailed information about the Hippie Trail in 1974Â Europe | Middle East | Afghanistan | India | Nepal | Alone | Return
Photographs Š Jack Garofalo | Burha Pinath | Eastmed Wanderer | Curt Gibbs | Rory MacLean | Bruce Barrett
Hippie Trail: A Brief History of the Travel Pioneers
#history#photography#travel#nostalgia#oldies#vintage#hippies#hippie#traveling#ontheroad#totravelistolive
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Thandiani
Thandiani (literally meaning 'Very Cold') is a hill station in the Galyat area of Pakistan.
History
Thandiani was originally granted as a lease to some members of the famous Battye family, Â in British India, who were dynamic Christian missionaries and also found in civil and military service, and who produced such famous scions as Wigram Battye[2] and Quintin Battye;[3] and the Battyes subsequently gifted the location to the church authorities, where a Sanatorium and various other facilities were set up during the British rule, mostly for the convenience of missionaries, Anglican church personnel and officers stationed at the neighbouring cantonment of Abbottabad. It also contained some private European houses, a camping ground, a small bazaar, and the small seasonal church of St Xavier in the Wilderness[4] which were occupied only during the summer monthsÂ
LocationÂ
Thandiani is located in the south of Abbottabad District at 34°13'60N 73°22'0E  and is about 31 kilometres from Abbottabad city in the foothills of the Himalayas. To the east beyond the Kunhar River lies the fabulous snow covered Pir Panjal mountain range of Kashmir. Visible to the north and northeast are the mountains of Kohistan and Kaghan. To the northwest are the snowy ranges ofSwat and Chitral. The hills of Thandiani are about 9,000 feet (2,750 m) above sea level. Most of the people of residing here belong to the Qureshi, Gujjar, and Karlal tribes. The nearest villages are Inderseri, Chattri, Siyalkot, Pattan and Kukmang.
TourismÂ
Thandiani is characterized by excellent weather and lush greenery in the summer months, and snow-covered vistas and hills in the winter. Many tourists from Khyber Pakhtunkhwa and all over Pakistan visit here, especially in the summer season. Being at a high altitude, with attractive scenery and several fine hiking trails into the forests and other nearby locations, it is a very attractive prospect.
Forests and wildlifeÂ
The mountains around Thandiani are still quite thickly forested, compared to most other hill stations in the locality, which have suffered some degree of deforestation over time. The local wildlife includes leopards, monkeys, several kinds of pheasants and the increasingly rare Flying squirrel and Pine Marten, to name only a few.
Earthquake 2005Â
The area and its surrounding villages were damaged by the 2005 Kashmir Earthquake.
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New Post has been published on Trekking in Pakistan
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Other Treks in Chitral
The Following treks are all in an open zone, except where noted.
KALASHA VALLEYS
See Permits and Regulations in the Kalasha Valleys section (p) for a discussion about Zones.
Urghuch
An easy one- day trek goes from Rumbur Valley to Urghuch village in the Chitral Valley 6.5Km south of Chitral town (see map,). From Rumbur, head east up the side Valley south of Balanguru. Follow the true right bank for half a Kilometre, then cross to the true left bank. Three quarters of a Kilometre beyond the crossing, as the trail enters the higher forest, turn south, then contour east and cross the ridge south of Sunwat (3066m). The route heads north- east and half a Kilometre below the ridge lies an abandoned rest house of the Mehtar of Chitral. From here, the trail descends north 1.5Km to a spring (2272m) and the Urghuch Valley. Follow it 2.5Km east to Urghuch village. Find a jeep in Urghuch, walk to Chitral or Ayun, or cross the footbridge over the Chitral River and wait along the Chitral- Drosh road for a ride.
Uchusht
Another route from Rumbur Valley towards Chitral goes to Uchusht, Just 1.5km south of Chitral town, in two easy days (see map,). Take a local guide from Balanguru as the trail is seldom- used and can be tricky. From Balanguru, walk west along the road upvalley for 30 minutes. Head north- east up the true left (east) bank of the second side valley above Balanguru; the first side valley leads to Sundargah. Some 1.5Km up the side valley, cross a side stream to reach the herdersâ hut at Palario. Then work steeply east 2Km to the forested ridge top separating Rumbur from Urghuch. Turn north and contour the upper Urghuch Gol. You can camp in this upper basin where water is available. Water isnât found on the ridge top- only views. Ascend to the ridge between Urghuch Gol and Uchusht Gol, 750m south and east of the high point Urghuch Gol (3510m). Follow the ridge east into forest (3025m) then descend north- east past herdersâ huts. Follow the small streamâs true left bank, then the spur north of this stream down to Uchusht village.
Bohok Pass  Â
An enjoyable, moderate three- day loop from Rumbur follows the Gangalwat Gol west past Shekhanandeh. The trail along the riverâs true left bank passes through several small settlements to the confluence with the Shekhan Bohok Gol (3518m), 12Km from Shekhanandeh. Head south up the Shekhan Bohok Gol, where the Bohok Pass (4725m) leads into the Kalasha Bohok Gol, which is the valley north of Acholgah. Descend the Kalasha Bohok Gol past Narajau and the junction with the trail coming from Kundyak An (see Day 2 of the Donson Pass and Kundyak An trek,) to the road along Rumbur Gol.
Utak An
Utak An (4647m) is one of several passes with permanent snowfields linking Begusht Gol, the large valley south of Garam Chashma, with the upper Rumbur Gol. The moderate trek starts 4km up the Begusht Gol at Turi Beshgar village, where the Mohour Gol flows in from the south and east. Head 7km up Mohour Gol to Putrik village, where two streams join. The route to the Utak An follows the stream that leads east. Across the Utak An, on its east side, is Dundeeni Chhat. This lake, in the upper Chitral Gol watershed, is the summer grazing area for Chitral Golâs markhor. The route Continues south- east along the Utak Gol to Chimirsan Ghari and Shekhanandeh (see Day 2 of the Gokhshal An and Dooni An Trek,).
Jinjeret
Jinjeret Kuh, a western tributary of the Chitral River south of Drosh, is inhabited by converted Kalasha, who became Muslims in the 20th century. They still speak Kalashamun, and live in Kalasha- style homes. Several interesting old Kalasha- style forts, or Kot in Urdu, stand near the valleyâs highest village. These forts arenât found elsewhere and are the subject of current research. Jinjeret Kuh is scenic, and the friendly people welcome foreigners. Kalasha Historic Adventure Tours organizes tours of a restored watchtower; go to the Hindu Kush Heights hotel in Chitral to make a booking.
A visit to Jinjeret makes an easy day trip from Drosh or an overnight trip from Chitral. Chitral- Drosh vans cost; special hires. From Drosh, special hires 7km to Dashmanandeh, or to the roadâs end, 5km farther. Alternatively, take a vehicle to the mouth of Jinjeret Kuh, then walk three hours upvalley.
Chitral Gol National Park
Merin
The Merin bungalows sit above the Chitral Golâs South bank (see map,). Female and young markhor live year- round on the cliffs across the river from Merin. Although Merin is best visited from April to October, in December male markhor come to the booster and mate with the females. The aggressive displays and competition between males are an unforgettable sight. You can visit Merin on a day hike from Chitral or camp in Merin and make this an easy two- day trip. From the booster (2200m), descend 45 minutes to a footbridge over Chitral Gol and then ascend 15 minutes to Merin (1980m), 2.4km from the booster. The climb up the northern hillside back to the booster takes 1½ hours. Mohammad Deen, the former mehtarâs huntsman, lives in Merin and can show you where the markhor are. Bring binoculars. Figs, apples, pears, apricots, and grapes grow near the crumbling mehtarâs bungalow, and a now dilapidated former British officersâ bungalow with fine woodwork. The British 38 M/13 Sheet shows the road and trail to Merin, but not the booster, which is very near where the trail meets the road.
You can visit Kasavir (see p) on an easy 9.2km day hike from Merin. The trail is passable only when the water in Chitral Gol is low, usually between August and October. Follow the route up- stream three hours, fording the river up to 10 times. It takes two hours to retrace your steps to Merin.
Bironshal
The mehtarâs bungalow in Bironshal (3068m) sits in mixed forest and grassland. Itâs no longer used, in ruins and the trail is not in good repair. Bironshal is best visited from April to October. The easy 10km route to Bironshal begins from the sealed road past the DCâs office in Chitral town (see map,). It takes six to eight hours to ascend 1600m to Bironshal. This is too far a day hike, so plan on two days. Return via the same route in four to six hours. If you have a local guide, you could return to Chitral town via Merin and the booster.
No trail exits beyond Bironshal except a seldom- used, difficult game- watchersâ route to Kasavir. Herders take goats from Merin to Bironshal over a faint track. Reaching Dooni Gol from Bironshal is very difficult. The cross- country route with Class 2 and Class 3 sections is in bad shape and not recommended.
ARkARI
Arkari is a seldom- visited area surrounded by the Hindu Kush peaks that form the Afghan border on its west side and the massif of Gul Lasht Zom (6657m) and Tirich Mir on its east side. Flowing through the area is the Arkari River, a northern tributary of the Lutkho River. Treks in Arkari are challenging routes for adventurous trekkers and offer good wildlife- watching opportunities. A local guide is essential. Jeeps to Owirdeh (Four hours), at the roadâs end in the Arkari Valley, depart from the Damdam Hotel at 10am. Special hires. This area is in a restricted zone, and the DC in Chitral authorizes visits.
Besti An and Lutkho An
Agram Gol and Besti Gol are western tributaries of the Arkari River. Besti An and links these valleys, which form a wildlife sanctuary bordering Afghanistan. Because of the steepness of the south side of Besti An. Itâs easier to start from Owirdeh in the Agram Gol and head in a counterclockwise direction to form a three- day near- loop. The demanding trek is possible July to mid-September. Exercise caution in Agram Gol, because Agram An is an uncontrolled pass leading to Afghanistan.
The first day, the trail leads up the true right (south) bank 5km, then crosses a footbridge with Gul Lasht Zom prominent to the north- east. Reach Agramdeh village in a grassy area 4km above the footbridge. After a farther 3km, the valley widens and offers views of crags above glaciers, with scree slopes descending to the valley floor. Cross the Dajal Gol coming from the north, and 6.5km from Agramdeh reach the junction (3200m) of the trail coming from the Agram An. Cross to the main riverâs true right (south) bank and, a beyond a grove of willows, reach Nawasin Ghari (3447m) after another 8km, eight to nine hours from Owirdeh.
The second day, continue up Agram Golâs true right bank as it curves south. The routes to Besti An and Lutkho (sad Qalachi) An divide 8km from Nawasin Ghari. The more difficult Lutkho An, with a steep, long ascent from Agram Gol, crosses to the Siruik Valley, with a difficult descent involving Class 3 rock. Sad Qalachi meansâ seven lengths of outstretched armsâ as the final 15m to 20m its south- west side requires traversing a narrow ledge along a 75m cliff and may require fixing ropes for safety.
To continue to Besti an, take the east (left) fork of the stream, alongside a glacier, and ascend 600m to Besti An (4633m). Descend 1200m to Khoin village in the upper Besti Gol in 2.5km, six to seven hours from Nawasin Ghari.
The last day, follow the trail down the Besti Gol 6.5km to Besti village, then 9.5Km more to the confluence with the Arkari Gol and the roadhead, five to six hours from Khoin. . Jeeps occasionally come up Besti Gol as far as Besti village.
Maps depicting these two passes are confusing one pass heads south and west from Agram Gol into the Siruik Valley and on to Lutkho; and the other heads south and east into the Besti Gol. The Zebak (J 42- X) sheet names the first pass Sad Qalachi An. The British Survey of India 1930 edition Afghanistan and NW- Frontier province 1:63, 360 37 P/SE sheet and the editors of the Himalayan Journal, however, call this pass Lutkho An. The second pass, which leads to Besti Gol, is named on the Zebak (J 42- X) sheet as Lutkho An. The British 37 P/SE sheet, as well as the editors of the Himalayan Journal, call this pass Sad Qalachi! The authors prefer to call the pass leading to the Siruik Valley and upper Lutkho the Lutkho An and the pass leading to Besti Gol the Besti An, a name given by Cockerill, who travelled here in 1894.
GazikistanÂ
Gazikistan (grassy place) is a pleasant camp site between the Lower and Upper Gazikistan glaciers, which descend from Gull Lasht Zom. It makes a good base camp for climbs on the Surrounding peaks. The road up the Arkari Valley goes to Owirdeh, at the Agram Golâs mouth. From Owirdeh to Gazikistan is a two- day trek. Camp at Yun, a summer village 6.5km from Owirdeh, or at Kurobakh, 14.5km from Owirdeh, at the Nuqsan Valleyâs mouth. Gazikistan lies 6.5km beyond Kurobakh.
SHISHI and GOLEN
The steep, rocky passes at the head of Jughor Gol and Roghili Gol are not snow- free until July.   Theyâre best crossed before Late September. The routes over all of these passes are infrequently used (see map,). When exploring them, hire a local herder who knows the way since map references are poor and routes arenât obvious.
Jughor
Jughor village, at the Jughor Golâs mouth, is south of, and across the river from, Chitral town. Plan to visit Jughor the day before you start in order to organize any trek. Four demanding passes are towards the valleyâs head: two head south to Shishi Gol; and two head east, one to Koghozi Gol and the other to Roghili Gol.
From Jughor, walk upvalley to a hut at Chhato Shal (3048m), where the trail crosses to the true left bank. Go 750m farther to a junction (3161m) of two trails. One trail leads south up the kapashung Gol to the passes to Shishi Gol and the other leads east up the Bungolbahan Gol to the other two passes.
The kapashung Gol route splits father upvalley. Here, the route to the south- east crosses the Domukh An (4380m) to Kalas in Shishi Gol. The route to the south follows the Kapashung Golâs true right bank for 3Km, along the highest branch, to Kapashung Gree (4318m), which also leads into Shishi Gol.
The route east up Bungolbahan Gol stays on the true left (south) bank and offers two options. First, from the 3161m trail junction, you can proceed 3Km upvalley and cross the river. A very steep 500m climb north brings you to the difficult Koghozi An (4480m) from where a steep descent into the Koghozi Valley leads to Koghozi village on the Chitral- Gilgit road. This is a difficult Class 3 cross-country route.
Second, you can ascend half is a Kilometre farther north- east along the Bungolbahan Golâs true left bank to Roghili Gree (4638m). Itâs then a steep 850m scree descent into the basin of the upper Roghili Gol. The basin is labeled Angarbah on the Chitral (I- 42 F) sheet, but local People donât recognize this name. Follow the south bank of a stream heading north- east 8km farther to Lut Chhat (3764m), a lake. From a trail junction 500m above the lake, you can head north down Roghili Gol by crossing the stream feeding the lake and contouring along its north bank (see the Roghili Gol Treks,). Alternatively, you can cross the Roghili An.
Roghili An
From Lut Chhat in the Upper Roghili Gol (see the Roghili Gol trek, p144) a route crosses the Roghili An (4496m) to Madaglasht in Shishi Gol. Continue along the north and west shores of Lut Chhat. Go beyond the lake for 500m and the cross the stream to its South bank. Here two routes divide: one to the Roghili An and the other to the more difficult Roghili Gree (see Jughor, above). The demanding route to Roghili An (4496m) turns south- east and Crosses a steep Ridge to Madaglasht in Shishi Gol.
Dok An
Dok An (4420m) links Istor, Golen Golâs highest village, with the upper Shishi Gol. It takes one day to walk to the upper Dok Gol with its streams, flowery meadows and sheer cliffs typical of Golen.
Istor villagers graze flocks in the pastures at the summer settlement of Warazo Shal. From here, itâs a one- day trek over the moderate. Dok An, which is usually open mid-June to September, to Shishi Gol. Once over Dok An, you can turn north- east into upper Shishi Gol, cross the Lohigal An, descend into Lohigal Gol and loop back to Istor.
TURIKHO
The following are specified and unspecified treks that fall within a restricted zone, but no permit is required. The Dc in Chitral authorizes visits.
Rosh
The moderate four- day trek up the idyllic and infrequently visited Rosh Gol begins in Zundrangram, Tirich Valleyâs main village. Saraghrar, one of nine 7000m peaks in the area, towers above the valleyâs head. The first day, cross the Tirich Gol and walk 13km up the Rosh Gol to Duru (3600m), Labeled Bachorgaz on the U502 Mastuj (NJ 43- 13) sheet, a lovely camp site with flowers and springs amid birches and willows. Continue the second day up the riverâs true left bank 2.5km to the Rosh Gol Glacierâs snout, and then on the true left side of the lateral moraine 5km to The lush ablation valley Kotgaz (4300m). Beyond Kotgaz, enjoy a day hike on the moraine- covered glacier for superb views. The fourth day return to Zundrangram.
Udren
Udren Gol and the Udren Glacier flow from a ring of 7000m peaks, including Udren Zom (7108m), Noshaq and Istor-o- Nal. A moderate four- day trek visits the glacierâs head (see map,). From Shagrom, follow the Tirich Gol 1Âź hours, then cross a footbridge and follow the Udren Golâs true right bank north past Shang-o- Lasht to a camp site 8km from the Confluence. The second day, continues 3Km to the glacierâs snout and walk 2km along its true right side. Head onto the moraine- covered glacier and traverse it diagonally 5km to its true left margin for views of Istor-o- Nal up the South Udren Glacier. Continue on moraine 6km to the confluence with the smaller North Udren Glacier and camp in the ablation valley (4300m). Retrace steps downvalley to Shagrom in two days.
 Saraghrar Base Camp    Â
The Saraghrar massif rises at the Ziwor Golâs head. A demanding five- day trek leads to the base camp of the successful 1959 Italian expedition. From Zang Lasht in Turikho, walk across the bridge over the Turikho River Burzum village (2400m) at the Ziwor Golâs narrow mouth. Follow the trail north and west up its true left bank, past the hot springs of Uts, 11.5km to Golung Shal (2800m). On Day 2 continue 12km to the once- cultivate Gram Shal (3400m), crossing the river just before it. Ziwor Gol was once inhabited, but abandoned when the glacier at its head advanced. It has since receded, but the valley hasnât been resettled. On Day 3, head up the true right bank 3.5km to the Ushko Glacierâs snout (Hurusko Kuh Glacier on the U502 Mastuj (NJ 43- 13) sheet), with the Nirogh Glacierâs snout (Nuroregh Glacier or maps) just to the south. Cross the Ushko Glacier just above its snout to its true right side. Leave the glacier and continue south along the Nirogh Glacierâs true left (west) margin as it heads south and bends west. Cross the Sorlawi Glacier coming from the north-west to reach Saraghrar Base Camp (4200m), at the base of the spur separating the Roma and Sorlawi Glaciers above the Nirogh Glacier. Here youâre surrounded by 6000m and 7000m peaks and get the best view of Saraghrar. Return downvalley to Zang Lasht in two days.
Chikor Pass
Chikor Pass (44330), which is usually open mid-July to mid-September, links Uzhnu and Ziwor, two uninhabited valleys branching west from Turikho Valleys. A moderate five- to seven- day near- loop starts at Uzhnu village along the jeep road in Turikho. Head north and west up the Uzhnu Valley, then turn south- west into Chikor Gol. Climb to the Chikor Pass and descend south- west to Gram Shal in the Ziwor Gol. Go east down Ziwor Gol returning to Zang Lasht in Turikho. This is an unspecified route in a restricted zone.
 Nizhdaru An
Nizhdaru An (5087m), an infrequently crossed pass, links Sor Rich in Rich Gol to Bang in the Yarkhun Valley. This demanding 25km technical trek takes two to three days and is best done in July or August. From Sor Rich (2785m) walk up the Chakosh Golâs true left (south) bank 5Km to Ghari Chhan. Continue another 8Km and camp below a small glacier descending from the pass. The next day, ascend the glacier steeply to the Nizhdaru An, which may require fixing rope or cutting steps; bring an ice axe and crampons. Descend steeply over scree on the west side to the meadows of Garagar (4023m). Camp here or continue to Bang in a long day. Bang- Mastuj jeeps. Special hires.
 Hindu Raj Crest
A demanding and exciting five- day cross- country trek traverses the crest of the Hindu Raj Range, crossing three seldom- visited passes. Anyone attempting this route needs to be an experienced trekker, accomplished at route- finding, completely self-reliant and able to communicate with herders in pastures in each separate valley. Khot herders know the Ghochhar An route, Bang herders the Bang Gol Muli An, and Paur herders the Siru An. The passes are typically snow- free between July and late September, but Plan to do the trek before early September when herders depart the pastures.
Walk from Khot Lasht to Shahglasht in 3½ to four hours on Day 1 (see map,). Itâs seven to nine hours on Day 2 to reach Garagar. From Shahglasht, leave the trail to Khot An and continue to the Jharogh huts, along the Jacha Golâs true left bank. Cross to its true right bank and continue up stream. The Jacha Gol (not marked on maps) and the Ghochhar Gol meet just beyond. Continue along the Ghochhar Golâs true right (west) bank 1.5km to the confluence with the Mazan Gol. Follow the Ghochhar Gol, and after passing beneath several small Permanent snowfields, cross the stream to its true left bank and ascend to the Ghochhar An (4727m), involving a steep scree ascent, and descend over a small glacier. Continue to Garagar, a herdersâ settlement in upper Bang Gol.
On Day 3, head north- east, cross Bang Gol Muli An (4763m) and descend, traversing a Small glacier, to the upper Paul Gol herdersâ settlement at Pimin Sor in five to eight hours. On Day 4, head north, then north- east to cross Siru An (4572m). Camp in the upper Siru Gol Beyond the Siru glacier, five to seven hours from Pimin Sor. On Day 5, continue down the herdersâ trail along the Siru Golâs true right bank to the confluence with the Ishperu Dok Gol. Cross a footbridge to the Ishperu Dok Golâs true left bank and follow the trail to Yashkist at the confluence with the Yarkhun River.
BASHQAR
Glacial lakes dot the upper Bashqar Gol, above which towers Ghuchhar Sar (6249m). Beyond the first lake, the valley divides: Thalo Gol heads south- west and Manali Gol heads south- south east. These upper valleys offer interesting, demanding, trekking and climbing possibilities, and are best visited by starting/ finishing in Sor Laspur. Itâs ill- advised to attempt the difficult passes at the head of these valleys, which leads to lawless areas where people are armed, may not welcome trekkers, and should be considered dangerous.
Itâs tedious going up the long, rocky Thalo Gol, which has numerous hanging glaciers. The moraine of the Thalo Glacier descends to the valley floor and another glacial lake lies beyond the Thalo Glacier. Thalo An leads to Dirâs Panjkora Valley. The way up the shorter Manali Gol leads over the large Manali Glacier, and on to an upper cirque. Manali An leads into Swatâs upper Gabral Valley.
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Kachakani An
Duration 6 days Distance 57. 5km Standard very demanding Season July- September Start Machiangaas Finish Sor Laspur Nearest Town Kalam Zone and Permit Open, no permit Public Transport yes Summary This trek through forested glades and flower- filled meadows along sparkling trout streams leads over the high Kachakani An from intimidating Swat into more peaceful Chitral.
 The scenic Kachakani An trek crosses a glacier and a pass (4766m) between Swatâs Ushu Gol and Chitralâs Bashqar Gol. Upper Ushu Gol has lush pastures, forested hill sides and turquoise lakes.
Planning
Maps
The US AMS 1:250,000 topographic maps Churrai (NI 43- 1) and Mastuj (NJ 43- 13) cover the trek.
Guides and Porters
A reliable, responsible guide is indispensable. Hire a guide associated with a trekking company or the government. Porters from Laspur may be more reliable than those from Swat. Porters ask for a flat rate of Rs 250 per day, including payment for food rations.
NEAREST TOWN
Kalam
Many inexpensive hotels and eateries line the road. PTDC Motel (0936- 830014) has single/ doubles for Rs 1200/1400; deluxe rooms cost Rs 1400/1800. Basic supplies are available in the Bazaar.
Access to Kalam Kohistan is from Saidu Sharif or Mingora in the Swat Valley. PTDC operates a luxury bus from Rawalpindi to Saidu Sharif (Rs 350) that departs at 9am. From Mingoraâs general bus stand, regular transport runs all day to Kalam. The trip Mingora â Kalam costs Rs 50 (2½ hours).
GETTING TO/FROM THE TREK
To the Start
The road is sealed as far up Ushu Gol as Matiltan, 16km beyond Kalam, but jeeps go beyond to Mahodand Lake. Minibuses are generally available between Kalam and Matiltan. Kalam- Mahodand Lake special hires cost Rs 1000 (two to three hours). Alternatively, you can walk on the road from Matiltan to Machiangaas (six to seven hours, 13km).
From the Finish
Sor Laspur is on the Chitral- Gilgit road, but no regular transport goes to Chitral or over the Shandur Pass to Gilgit. Occasional Sor Laspur- Mastuj jeeps cost Rs 35. Mastuj- Chitral jeeps cost Rs 80. Sor Laspur- Chitral special hires cost Rs 3000, and Sor Laspur Gilgit costs Rs 8000- 9000.
THE TREK
Day 1 : Machiangaas to Diwangar
4- 5 hours, 9.5km, 160m ascent
Machiangaas (2890m) meadows lie just south of the cedar and pine- fringed Mahodand Lake, famous for its trout. Swatâs highest peak, snowy Falak Sar (5918m) soars above. Follow the wide trail through alpine forest along the Ushu Gol to the summer settlement of Diwangar (3050m). The Dadarelli An route (see Ghizarâs Other Treks,) heads north from here.
Day 2 : Diwangar to Shonz
4- 5 hours, 10km, 150m ascent
The broad trail rises through pine forest. Cross to the Ushu Golâs true right bank and continue to Shonz (3200m), a Gujar summer camp at the foot of Bashkaro An (see Ghizarâs Other Treks,).
Warning
The area has a heavily armed populace, which necessitates trekking with an armed escort. Reports of robbery (or worse) of unescorted trekkers are not uncommon. Register with the police on arrival in Kalam. Beware of thievery and post guards at night.
 Day 3 : Shonz to Bokhtshal
4- 5 hours, 8km, 675m ascent
The trail follows the stream, rising steadily through willow and birch groves, past a series of small falls and blue- green lakes to Bokhtshal (3875m), a summer pasture. Alpine scenery of birch trees, wildflowers and a sparkling stream makes this a pleasant camp site at the base of Kachakani An.
Day 4 : Bokhtshal to Khunza Uts
8- 9 hours, 11km, 891m ascent, 1016m descent
Start early and follow an ever- steepening trail. The view opens as you climb, with side glaciers and peaks coming into view. Climb over snow slopes, which are difficult when soft, to the Kachakani An (4766m).
Descend steeply on snow- covered glacier, then move onto moraine along its true right margin. Beware of rock fall, especially late in the season. Pass the Kachakani Glacierâs snout and continue downstream to the grassy camp of site Khunza Uts (3750m, âQueenâs Springâ), with a clear stream and fine mountain views.
Day 5 : Khunza Uts to Bashqar Gol Camp
4 hours, 9km, 335m descent
Follow the Kachakani Gol downstream to its confluence with the Bashqar Gol and Bashqar Gol Camp (3415m).
Day 6 : Bashqar Gol Camp to Sor Laspur
4- 5 hours, 10km, 565m descent
Follow the Bashqar Golâs true right bank downstream. Pass through the hamlet of Nalagh to Reach Sor Laspur (2850m).
Other trek
The Following treks are all in an open zone, except where noted.
KALASHA VALLEYS
See Permits and Regulations in the Kalasha Valleys section (p) for a discussion about Zones.
Urghuch
An easy one- day trek goes from Rumbur Valley to Urghuch village in the Chitral Valley 6.5Km south of Chitral town (see map,). From Rumbur, head east up the side Valley south of Balanguru. Follow the true right bank for half a Kilometre, then cross to the true left bank. Three quarters of a Kilometre beyond the crossing, as the trail enters the higher forest, turn south, then contour east and cross the ridge south of Sunwat (3066m). The route heads north- east and half a Kilometre below the ridge lies an abandoned rest house of the Mehtar of Chitral. From here, the trail descends north 1.5Km to a spring (2272m) and the Urghuch Valley. Follow it 2.5Km east to Urghuch village. Find a jeep in Urghuch, walk to Chitral or Ayun, or cross the footbridge over the Chitral River and wait along the Chitral- Drosh road for a ride.
Uchusht
Another route from Rumbur Valley towards Chitral goes to Uchusht, Just 1.5km south of Chitral town, in two easy days (see map,). Take a local guide from Balanguru as the trail is seldom- used and can be tricky. From Balanguru, walk west along the road upvalley for 30 minutes. Head north- east up the true left (east) bank of the second side valley above Balanguru; the first side valley leads to Sundargah. Some 1.5Km up the side valley, cross a side stream to reach the herdersâ hut at Palario. Then work steeply east 2Km to the forested ridge top separating Rumbur from Urghuch. Turn north and contour the upper Urghuch Gol. You can camp in this upper basin where water is available. Water isnât found on the ridge top- only views. Ascend to the ridge between Urghuch Gol and Uchusht Gol, 750m south and east of the high point Urghuch Gol (3510m). Follow the ridge east into forest (3025m) then descend north- east past herdersâ huts. Follow the small streamâs true left bank, then the spur north of this stream down to Uchusht village.
Bohok Pass  Â
An enjoyable, moderate three- day loop from Rumbur follows the Gangalwat Gol west past Shekhanandeh. The trail along the riverâs true left bank passes through several small settlements to the confluence with the Shekhan Bohok Gol (3518m), 12Km from Shekhanandeh. Head south up the Shekhan Bohok Gol, where the Bohok Pass (4725m) leads into the Kalasha Bohok Gol, which is the valley north of Acholgah. Descend the Kalasha Bohok Gol past Narajau and the junction with the trail coming from Kundyak An (see Day 2 of the Donson Pass and Kundyak An trek,) to the road along Rumbur Gol.
Utak An
Utak An (4647m) is one of several passes with permanent snowfields linking Begusht Gol, the large valley south of Garam Chashma, with the upper Rumbur Gol. The moderate trek starts 4km up the Begusht Gol at Turi Beshgar village, where the Mohour Gol flows in from the south and east. Head 7km up Mohour Gol to Putrik village, where two streams join. The route to the Utak An follows the stream that leads east. Across the Utak An, on its east side, is Dundeeni Chhat. This lake, in the upper Chitral Gol watershed, is the summer grazing area for Chitral Golâs markhor. The route Continues south- east along the Utak Gol to Chimirsan Ghari and Shekhanandeh (see Day 2 of the Gokhshal An and Dooni An Trek,).
Jinjeret
Jinjeret Kuh, a western tributary of the Chitral River south of Drosh, is inhabited by converted Kalasha, who became Muslims in the 20th century. They still speak Kalashamun, and live in Kalasha- style homes. Several interesting old Kalasha- style forts, or Kot in Urdu, stand near the valleyâs highest village. These forts arenât found elsewhere and are the subject of current research. Jinjeret Kuh is scenic, and the friendly people welcome foreigners. Kalasha Historic Adventure Tours organizes tours of a restored watchtower; go to the Hindu Kush Heights hotel in Chitral to make a booking.
A visit to Jinjeret makes an easy day trip from Drosh or an overnight trip from Chitral. Chitral- Drosh vans cost Rs 35; special hires cost Rs 600. From Drosh, special hires 7km to Dashmanandeh cost Rs 700, or to the roadâs end, 5km farther, Rs 1200. Alternatively, take a vehicle to the mouth of Jinjeret Kuh, then walk three hours upvalley.
Chitral Gol National Park
Merin
The Merin bungalows sit above the Chitral Golâs South bank (see map,). Female and young markhor live year- round on the cliffs across the river from Merin. Although Merin is best visited from April to October, in December male markhor come to the booster and mate with the females. The aggressive displays and competition between males are an unforgettable sight. You can visit Merin on a day hike from Chitral or camp in Merin and make this an easy two- day trip. From the booster (2200m), descend 45 minutes to a footbridge over Chitral Gol and then ascend 15 minutes to Merin (1980m), 2.4km from the booster. The climb up the northern hillside back to the booster takes 1½ hours. Mohammad Deen, the former mehtarâs huntsman, lives in Merin and can show you where the markhor are. Bring binoculars. Figs, apples, pears, apricots, and grapes grow near the crumbling mehtarâs bungalow, and a now dilapidated former British officersâ bungalow with fine woodwork. The British 38 M/13 Sheet shows the road and trail to Merin, but not the booster, which is very near where the trail meets the road.
You can visit Kasavir (see p) on an easy 9.2km day hike from Merin. The trail is passable only when the water in Chitral Gol is low, usually between August and October. Follow the route up- stream three hours, fording the river up to 10 times. It takes two hours to retrace your steps to Merin.
Bironshal
The mehtarâs bungalow in Bironshal (3068m) sits in mixed forest and grassland. Itâs no longer used, in ruins and the trail is not in good repair. Bironshal is best visited from April to October. The easy 10km route to Bironshal begins from the sealed road past the DCâs office in Chitral town (see map,). It takes six to eight hours to ascend 1600m to Bironshal. This is too far a day hike, so plan on two days. Return via the same route in four to six hours. If you have a local guide, you could return to Chitral town via Merin and the booster.
No trail exits beyond Bironshal except a seldom- used, difficult game- watchersâ route to Kasavir. Herders take goats from Merin to Bironshal over a faint track. Reaching Dooni Gol from Bironshal is very difficult. The cross- country route with Class 2 and Class 3 sections is in bad shape and not recommended.
ARkARI
Arkari is a seldom- visited area surrounded by the Hindu Kush peaks that form the Afghan border on its west side and the massif of Gul Lasht Zom (6657m) and Tirich Mir on its east side. Flowing through the area is the Arkari River, a northern tributary of the Lutkho River. Treks in Arkari are challenging routes for adventurous trekkers and offer good wildlife- watching opportunities. A local guide is essential. Jeeps to Owirdeh (Rs 60, four hours), at the roadâs end in the Arkari Valley, depart from the Damdam Hotel at 10am. Special hires cost Rs 1000- 1200. This area is in a restricted zone, and the DC in Chitral authorizes visits.
 Besti An and Lutkho An
Agram Gol and Besti Gol are western tributaries of the Arkari River. Besti An and links these valleys, which form a wildlife sanctuary bordering Afghanistan. Because of the steepness of the south side of Besti An. Itâs easier to start from Owirdeh in the Agram Gol and head in a counterclockwise direction to form a three- day near- loop. The demanding trek is possible July to mid-September. Exercise caution in Agram Gol, because Agram An is an uncontrolled pass leading to Afghanistan.
The first day, the trail leads up the true right (south) bank 5km, then crosses a footbridge with Gul Lasht Zom prominent to the north- east. Reach Agramdeh village in a grassy area 4km above the footbridge. After a farther 3km, the valley widens and offers views of crags above glaciers, with scree slopes descending to the valley floor. Cross the Dajal Gol coming from the north, and 6.5km from Agramdeh reach the junction (3200m) of the trail coming from the Agram An. Cross to the main riverâs true right (south) bank and, a beyond a grove of willows, reach Nawasin Ghari (3447m) after another 8km, eight to nine hours from Owirdeh.
The second day, continue up Agram Golâs true right bank as it curves south. The routes to Besti An and Lutkho (sad Qalachi) An divide 8km from Nawasin Ghari. The more difficult Lutkho An, with a steep, long ascent from Agram Gol, crosses to the Siruik Valley, with a difficult descent involving Class 3 rock. Sad Qalachi meansâ seven lengths of outstretched armsâ as the final 15m to 20m its south- west side requires traversing a narrow ledge along a 75m cliff and may require fixing ropes for safety.
To continue to Besti an, take the east (left) fork of the stream, alongside a glacier, and ascend 600m to Besti An (4633m). Descend 1200m to Khoin village in the upper Besti Gol in 2.5km, six to seven hours from Nawasin Ghari.
The last day, follow the trail down the Besti Gol 6.5km to Besti village, then 9.5Km more to the confluence with the Arkari Gol and the roadhead, five to six hours from Khoin. . Jeeps (Rs 70) occasionally come up Besti Gol as far as Besti village.
Maps depicting these two passes are confusing one pass heads south and west from Agram Gol into the Siruik Valley and on to Lutkho; and the other heads south and east into the Besti Gol. The Zebak (J 42- X) sheet names the first pass Sad Qalachi An. The British Survey of India 1930 edition Afghanistan and NW- Frontier province 1:63, 360 37 P/SE sheet and the editors of the Himalayan Journal, however, call this pass Lutkho An. The second pass, which leads to Besti Gol, is named on the Zebak (J 42- X) sheet as Lutkho An. The British 37 P/SE sheet, as well as the editors of the Himalayan Journal, call this pass Sad Qalachi! The authors prefer to call the pass leading to the Siruik Valley and upper Lutkho the Lutkho An and the pass leading to Besti Gol the Besti An, a name given by Cockerill, who travelled here in 1894.
GazikistanÂ
Gazikistan (grassy place) is a pleasant camp site between the Lower and Upper Gazikistan glaciers, which descend from Gull Lasht Zom. It makes a good base camp for climbs on the Surrounding peaks. The road up the Arkari Valley goes to Owirdeh, at the Agram Golâs mouth. From Owirdeh to Gazikistan is a two- day trek. Camp at Yun, a summer village 6.5km from Owirdeh, or at Kurobakh, 14.5km from Owirdeh, at the Nuqsan Valleyâs mouth. Gazikistan lies 6.5km beyond Kurobakh.
SHISHI and GOLEN
The steep, rocky passes at the head of Jughor Gol and Roghili Gol are not snow- free until July.   Theyâre best crossed before Late September. The routes over all of these passes are infrequently used (see map,). When exploring them, hire a local herder who knows the way since map references are poor and routes arenât obvious.
Jughor
Jughor village, at the Jughor Golâs mouth, is south of, and across the river from, Chitral town. Plan to visit Jughor the day before you start in order to organize any trek. Four demanding passes are towards the valleyâs head: two head south to Shishi Gol; and two head east, one to Koghozi Gol and the other to Roghili Gol.
From Jughor, walk upvalley to a hut at Chhato Shal (3048m), where the trail crosses to the true left bank. Go 750m farther to a junction (3161m) of two trails. One trail leads south up the kapashung Gol to the passes to Shishi Gol and the other leads east up the Bungolbahan Gol to the other two passes.
The kapashung Gol route splits father upvalley. Here, the route to the south- east crosses the Domukh An (4380m) to Kalas in Shishi Gol. The route to the south follows the Kapashung Golâs true right bank for 3Km, along the highest branch, to Kapashung Gree (4318m), which also leads into Shishi Gol.
The route east up Bungolbahan Gol stays on the true left (south) bank and offers two options. First, from the 3161m trail junction, you can proceed 3Km upvalley and cross the river. A very steep 500m climb north brings you to the difficult Koghozi An (4480m) from where a steep descent into the Koghozi Valley leads to Koghozi village on the Chitral- Gilgit road. This is a difficult Class 3 cross-country route.
Second, you can ascend half is a Kilometre farther north- east along the Bungolbahan Golâs true left bank to Roghili Gree (4638m). Itâs then a steep 850m scree descent into the basin of the upper Roghili Gol. The basin is labeled Angarbah on the Chitral (I- 42 F) sheet, but local People donât recognize this name. Follow the south bank of a stream heading north- east 8km farther to Lut Chhat (3764m), a lake. From a trail junction 500m above the lake, you can head north down Roghili Gol by crossing the stream feeding the lake and contouring along its north bank (see the Roghili Gol Treks,). Alternatively, you can cross the Roghili An.
Roghili An
From Lut Chhat in the Upper Roghili Gol (see the Roghili Gol trek, p144) a route crosses the Roghili An (4496m) to Madaglasht in Shishi Gol. Continue along the north and west shores of Lut Chhat. Go beyond the lake for 500m and the cross the stream to its South bank. Here two routes divide: one to the Roghili An and the other to the more difficult Roghili Gree (see Jughor, above). The demanding route to Roghili An (4496m) turns south- east and Crosses a steep Ridge to Madaglasht in Shishi Gol.
Dok An
Dok An (4420m) links Istor, Golen Golâs highest village, with the upper Shishi Gol. It takes one day to walk to the upper Dok Gol with its streams, flowery meadows and sheer cliffs typical of Golen.
Istor villagers graze flocks in the pastures at the summer settlement of Warazo Shal. From here, itâs a one- day trek over the moderate. Dok An, which is usually open mid-June to September, to Shishi Gol. Once over Dok An, you can turn north- east into upper Shishi Gol, cross the Lohigal An, descend into Lohigal Gol and loop back to Istor.
TURIKHO
The following are specified and unspecified treks that fall within a restricted zone, but no permit is required. The Dc in Chitral authorizes visits.
Rosh
The moderate four- day trek up the idyllic and infrequently visited Rosh Gol begins in Zundrangram, Tirich Valleyâs main village. Saraghrar, one of nine 7000m peaks in the area, towers above the valleyâs head. The first day, cross the Tirich Gol and walk 13km up the Rosh Gol to Duru (3600m), Labeled Bachorgaz on the U502 Mastuj (NJ 43- 13) sheet, a lovely camp site with flowers and springs amid birches and willows. Continue the second day up the riverâs true left bank 2.5km to the Rosh Gol Glacierâs snout, and then on the true left side of the lateral moraine 5km to The lush ablation valley Kotgaz (4300m). Beyond Kotgaz, enjoy a day hike on the moraine- covered glacier for superb views. The fourth day return to Zundrangram.
Udren
Udren Gol and the Udren Glacier flow from a ring of 7000m peaks, including Udren Zom (7108m), Noshaq and Istor-o- Nal. A moderate four- day trek visits the glacierâs head (see map,). From Shagrom, follow the Tirich Gol 1Âź hours, then cross a footbridge and follow the Udren Golâs true right bank north past Shang-o- Lasht to a camp site 8km from the Confluence. The second day, continues 3Km to the glacierâs snout and walk 2km along its true right side. Head onto the moraine- covered glacier and traverse it diagonally 5km to its true left margin for views of Istor-o- Nal up the South Udren Glacier. Continue on moraine 6km to the confluence with the smaller North Udren Glacier and camp in the ablation valley (4300m). Retrace steps downvalley to Shagrom in two days.
 Saraghrar Base Camp    Â
The Saraghrar massif rises at the Ziwor Golâs head. A demanding five- day trek leads to the base camp of the successful 1959 Italian expedition. From Zang Lasht in Turikho, walk across the bridge over the Turikho River Burzum village (2400m) at the Ziwor Golâs narrow mouth. Follow the trail north and west up its true left bank, past the hot springs of Uts, 11.5km to Golung Shal (2800m). On Day 2 continue 12km to the once- cultivate Gram Shal (3400m), crossing the river just before it. Ziwor Gol was once inhabited, but abandoned when the glacier at its head advanced. It has since receded, but the valley hasnât been resettled. On Day 3, head up the true right bank 3.5km to the Ushko Glacierâs snout (Hurusko Kuh Glacier on the U502 Mastuj (NJ 43- 13) sheet), with the Nirogh Glacierâs snout (Nuroregh Glacier or maps) just to the south. Cross the Ushko Glacier just above its snout to its true right side. Leave the glacier and continue south along the Nirogh Glacierâs true left (west) margin as it heads south and bends west. Cross the Sorlawi Glacier coming from the north-west to reach Saraghrar Base Camp (4200m), at the base of the spur separating the Roma and Sorlawi Glaciers above the Nirogh Glacier. Here youâre surrounded by 6000m and 7000m peaks and get the best view of Saraghrar. Return downvalley to Zang Lasht in two days.
Chikor Pass
Chikor Pass (44330), which is usually open mid-July to mid-September, links Uzhnu and Ziwor, two uninhabited valleys branching west from Turikho Valleys. A moderate five- to seven- day near- loop starts at Uzhnu village along the jeep road in Turikho. Head north and west up the Uzhnu Valley, then turn south- west into Chikor Gol. Climb to the Chikor Pass and descend south- west to Gram Shal in the Ziwor Gol. Go east down Ziwor Gol returning to Zang Lasht in Turikho. This is an unspecified route in a restricted zone.
 Nizhdaru An
Nizhdaru An (5087m), an infrequently crossed pass, links Sor Rich in Rich Gol to Bang in the Yarkhun Valley. This demanding 25km technical trek takes two to three days and is best done in July or August. From Sor Rich (2785m) walk up the Chakosh Golâs true left (south) bank 5Km to Ghari Chhan. Continue another 8Km and camp below a small glacier descending from the pass. The next day, ascend the glacier steeply to the Nizhdaru An, which may require fixing rope or cutting steps; bring an ice axe and crampons. Descend steeply over scree on the west side to the meadows of Garagar (4023m). Camp here or continue to Bang in a long day. Bang- Mastuj jeeps cost Rs 50. Special hires cost Rs 1000.
 Hindu Raj Crest
A demanding and exciting five- day cross- country trek traverses the crest of the Hindu Raj Range, crossing three seldom- visited passes. Anyone attempting this route needs to be an experienced trekker, accomplished at route- finding, completely self-reliant and able to communicate with herders in pastures in each separate valley. Khot herders know the Ghochhar An route, Bang herders the Bang Gol Muli An, and Paur herders the Siru An. The passes are typically snow- free between July and late September, but Plan to do the trek before early September when herders depart the pastures.
Walk from Khot Lasht to Shahglasht in 3½ to four hours on Day 1 (see map,). Itâs seven to nine hours on Day 2 to reach Garagar. From Shahglasht, leave the trail to Khot An and continue to the Jharogh huts, along the Jacha Golâs true left bank. Cross to its true right bank and continue up stream. The Jacha Gol (not marked on maps) and the Ghochhar Gol meet just beyond. Continue along the Ghochhar Golâs true right (west) bank 1.5km to the confluence with the Mazan Gol. Follow the Ghochhar Gol, and after passing beneath several small Permanent snowfields, cross the stream to its true left bank and ascend to the Ghochhar An (4727m), involving a steep scree ascent, and descend over a small glacier. Continue to Garagar, a herdersâ settlement in upper Bang Gol.
On Day 3, head north- east, cross Bang Gol Muli An (4763m) and descend, traversing a Small glacier, to the upper Paul Gol herdersâ settlement at Pimin Sor in five to eight hours. On Day 4, head north, then north- east to cross Siru An (4572m). Camp in the upper Siru Gol Beyond the Siru glacier, five to seven hours from Pimin Sor. On Day 5, continue down the herdersâ trail along the Siru Golâs true right bank to the confluence with the Ishperu Dok Gol. Cross a footbridge to the Ishperu Dok Golâs true left bank and follow the trail to Yashkist at the confluence with the Yarkhun River.
BASHQAR
Glacial lakes dot the upper Bashqar Gol, above which towers Ghuchhar Sar (6249m). Beyond the first lake, the valley divides: Thalo Gol heads south- west and Manali Gol heads south- south east. These upper valleys offer interesting, demanding, trekking and climbing possibilities, and are best visited by starting/ finishing in Sor Laspur. Itâs ill- advised to attempt the difficult passes at the head of these valleys, which leads to lawless areas where people are armed, may not welcome trekkers, and should be considered dangerous.
Itâs tedious going up the long, rocky Thalo Gol, which has numerous hanging glaciers. The moraine of the Thalo Glacier descends to the valley floor and another glacial lake lies beyond the Thalo Glacier. Thalo An leads to Dirâs Panjkora Valley. The way up the shorter Manali Gol leads over the large Manali Glacier, and on to an upper cirque. Manali An leads into Swatâs upper Gabral Valley.
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