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geek4theseeds · 5 months ago

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PINKY (HYPOESTES: PINK POLKA DOT)

MY FIRST EVER BABY!!!

Did i ever tell you that my first ever plant is the pink polka dot girl? YASSSS im so excited to show her growth ;) what’s ironic is her growing in this little pink hello kitty cup (that shows hello kitty holding a teddy bear) is a very meaningful commemoration of giving her the childhood she deserves tbh🤷‍♀️ me as her mother thinks!

How did me as her mother birthed her?

She’s tremendously resilient so far (imagine raising a toddler that is born to be mature, no whining etc) seriously shes growing real fast. I find it funny tho that she was born from a seed starter kit. But aye she was $10 and I had a vision of seeing her grow outta the box.

Why the name… “PINKY”?

Well no fucking shit.

Growth process as of July 20, 2024

She is doing well so far despite spilling her way too much since shes in a fucking hello kitty cup💀 But I put her back together and she just keeps on growing. Don’t we all need a person that is willing to put us back together and help us grow!!! my gf is indeed that person for me!

Buttttt I am indeed giving her a good life. She is tall as fuck and she will soon not need that sandy cheeks ahhh helmet that she got on. She NEEDSSSSS to be surrounded by humidity and light! Gots to put the grow light on her! Also, i gave her plenty of water, plant food, and let her dry out till germination is done/when soil is dry above.

OUTRO

it’s been warmer than usual since it's currently summer so she’s getting there!!! i fear i might have to start buying bigger pots soon. Its kinda that fear where you birthed a baby that is just naturally big so you gotta get your 6 month old some 2 year clothes. But yes she is showing her cotyledons but I cannot wait to see her first true pink leaf 🤭

PS....

OKAY LOWKEY UPSET BC I ACCIDENTALLY BE HEADED ONE OF THE COTYLEDON SPROUTS WHILE PUTTING THE DOME BACK ON BC MY STUPID ASS WAS INTRIGUED BY HER GROWTH BUTTT ITS OKAY BC SHES GOT OTHER SIBLINGS 😣

Are you a geek4theseeds?

This is how I take care of her:

Morning

She gets about 10 hours during the day of light (10 am to 8 pm)

Put her in a spot right near where the sun hits because she prefers indirect bright sunlight!!! She needs light but not too much!! (bc too much sun light on her will dry her out too quick and create a fading look on the leaves…. I want her to stay moist and pink just like my pus-

But her in between my air circulation fan and my humidifier cause she needs air flow and humidity you know what i mean?

Always checking if her vents are not open so we can always create humidity. she would need about 50% of humidity so lets keep that up!

When the sun goes down, I just let her rest in a dark shaded area for about 2-3 hours

Nighttime

When its around 9:30-10, I put her under a grow light for the rest of the night!

She will then get about 5 hours of light (10 pm - 5 am)

The light will turn off a few hours before morning starts so she can get a little grace period of permanent shade. (5 hours of complete shade)

i live in merced so the weather is pretty fair for her. (she gets about 73-76 degrees indoors)

So in total of hours : 15 hrs of light / 8 hrs of shade

So giving her a fair amount of light so that she wont dry/fade. Giving her a fair amount of shade so she can cool down.

If you’re interested in thee hypoestes, Click this whole sentence 🌱

#hypoestes #indoor plants #plant care #pink polka dot #plantcore

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lauredove · 1 year ago

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Background of Rapid Cycling Brassicas

Rapid Cycling Brassicas, or RCBs, are relatives of the mustard family. They are part of the order Papaverales in the subclass Dicotyledeonae. Brassicas have great economic and commercial value, and play a very big role in feeding the world population. They range from vegetables, mustards and oil producing crops, to animal fodders and weeds. They are particularly obedient in the classroom because they show remarkably rapid development, flower in thirteen to eighteen days, are small, and can reproduce at high densities under a fluorescent lighting system.

Brassica rapa (RCBr), one variety of a wide range of Brassica plants, is very helpful with learning about plants. They have been selectively (artificially) bred for the ability to produce seed at high plant density, the ability to grow well in a potting mix, absence of seed dormancy, rapid seed maturation, petite plant type, germinating in less than twelve hours and flowering in two weeks, shoots emerging in forty eight hours, flower buds appearing in seven to eight days, flowers beginning to open in twelve to thirteen days and many other traits over the past twenty years. Students are introduced to all aspects of growth and development, from germination through harvesting of seeds.

Germination occurs when a seed sprouts and starts developing into a baby plant. The cotyledons store food for the baby plant inside the seed. When the seed starts to germinate, the first thing to appear is the embryonic root, which is also called the main root. The skin starts to split and the tiny shoot straightens, carrying the cotyledon(s) with it. The main root gets bigger. Side roots appear as well as leaves. Seed dormancy, when seeds are inactive, lasts until the embryo is mature enough and the environmental conditions, oxygen, water, and temperature range, are right.

Purpose:

The purpose of this experiment is to learn how plants grow and reproduce in a quick time.

Predictions/Hypotheses:

I think my plant will be about 18 cm tall at the end of day 40.

I think my plant will make 40 seeds.

I think my plant will have 14 flowers.

Materials:

Fluorescent Light “Blanks”

Plastic Shoe Boxes with Water

Wet Mat

Two Brassica rapa “Fast Plant” seeds.

Two Fertilizer Pellets

Film Canister

Potting Soil

String

Pipette

Beaker of Water

Sticks

Toothpicks

Dead Bee

Clear Rulers

Pencil

Paper (For recording plant growth every class day)

Procedure:

Step 1: Take a label and write your name, date, and period. Put the label on the outside of your film canister.

Step 2: Take a piece of string and tie a knot at the end.

Step 3: Take the end that is not knotted and thread it through the hole in the bottom of the film canister so the knot is in the inside.

Step 4: Fill the film canister half full with potting soil. DO NOT PACK THE SOIL*.

Step 5: Place two fertilizer pellets into the film canister towards the middle.

Step 6: Put more potting soil into the canister but make sure there is a little room at the top.

Step 7: Make a little hole in the center of the soil, about four mm deep. Place two seeds inside the hole and cover then with soil. DO NOT PACK*.

Step 8: Take the pipette and add water to the top of the canister being careful not to unearth the seeds. Add 3 full pipettes of water.

Step 9: When finished, place it under the light on the mat.

*: If you pack the soil, the seeds won’t be able to germinate very well, and they’ll have a hard time getting oxygen and nutrients.

Step 10: Sketch overall, ‘big picture’ set up including light banks, plastic shoeboxes with water, wet mats, and fast plant film canisters with strings and label all items.

Step 11: If your plant dies, (I know, how sad. L) join the adopt-a-plant “club”. Someone with a living plant will gladly let you take observations on his/her plant.

Step 12: If you are still observing your own plant and it has grown fairly tall, support your plant with sticks and string so the plant won’t break. They can be very fragile.

Step 13: Take daily observations on your plant; keep track of how much it has grown, if at all.

Step 14: When plant begins to produce flowers, create Bee Stick and pollinate. (LOTS OF BUZZING!)

Step 15: After pods have formed to their complete mature size, take away water supply, and dry out plants.

Step 16: When plants are completely dried out and yellow, harvest seeds.

Step 17: As well as harvesting, count the seeds.

Step 18: Break down the lab.

Observations:

These are the daily observations I took on my Brassica plant. I named him Chance when he germinated, because I wanted him to have a chance to live, and I wasn’t sure if he would live or not. In fact, he didn’t live, he only lasted four days at first. But then, about two days later, he sprouted again! It shows that plants don’t always germinate on a schedule. I guess Chance just has a mind of his own.

Day 4:

Date: 4/28/06

Nothing has grown. Orange and green fungi can be seen.

Day 7:

Date: 5/1/06

Yay! Embryonic shoot is visible!

No more orange fungi!

Mostly white fungi.

Little cotyledons are visible.

Day 9:

Date: 5/3/06

No changes noted.

Plant came out of soil, but was fixed.

Day 11:

Date: 5/5/06

No changes noted.

Day 14:

Date: 5/8/06

Today I adopted A.S.’s plant.

Chance died. :( RIP buddy.

There is fungus all around the canister.

2 plants are visible.

They are greenish-yellow.

Day 16:

Date: 5/10/06

Today I adopted D.C.’s plant.

A.S.’s plant died. RIP little plants. :(

D.C.’s plant is 5 cm. Wow.

It has 2 true leaves, 2 cotyledons, and maybe a bud.

Day 18:

Date: 5/12/06

The plant is now 6 cm.

It has 2 true leaves, 2 cotyledons, and 5 buds.

It looks a bit greener, and its stem is purple.

The leaves are starting to be lobed.

Day 21:

Date: 5/15/06

CHANCE IS REBORN! YAY! :)

I have 3 out of 3 sprouts now, and one is 1 cm tall!

2 cotyledons are visible on this sprout.

D.C.’s plant is 9 cm tall.

It has 3 true leaves, 5 buds, and one flower.

It is purple stemmed at the bottom and green at the top.

A little hair is visible on the stem.

Day 23:

Date: 5/17/06

Chance looks healthy, so I decided to come back to observing him instead of both Dana’s plant and Chance.

Chance is now 3 cm tall and his cotyledons are fully developed.

He looks very healthy and green.

Day 25:

Date: 5/19/06

Chance is 4 cm. I can see a bud of a true leaf starting to grow. I’m not really sure how many true leafs will come from this “bud”, but for now I’ll say one.

Day 28:

Date: 5/22/06

Chance has one true leaf now. Another one is growing.

Chance is still 4 cm tall.

Mr. S put more soil around Chance so he will stay up straight.

Day 30:

Date: 5/24/06

Chance is still 4 cm tall. Looks like he might be a short plant.

2 true leaves can be seen. I think I see buds growing.

It looks like there’re three.

Day 32:

Date: 5/26/06

Chance is 5 cm tall now.

He has 3 buds and 2 true leaves. YAY!

He is green and still looks healthy. :)

Day 37:

Date: 5/31/06

Chance is 6 cm tall.

One flower is produced and I fertilized it using the Bee Stick.

2 more buds are developing.

Day 39:

Date: 6/12/06

While everyone took their last observations of their seed-producing plants, I kept fertilizing Chance. Yes, Chance is a late bloomer. I don’t think he’ll be able to grow any more at all after today, or have his pod develop and mature fully. But I’m hoping he will. Chance is starting to grow a new true leaf, ending his supply with 3, and he is 7 cm tall. What a short plant. 7 flower buds can be seen, and one pod is forming. Go Chance! Hopefully he will satisfy me, but if he doesn’t, it’s okay. I learned that some plants have their own schedule, and sometimes germinate later than others.

Conclusion:

The purpose of this experiment is to learn how plants grow and reproduce in a quick time. My data did not support my hypotheses:

I think my plant will be about 18 cm tall at the end of Day 40.

I think my plant will make 40 seeds.

I think my plant will have 14 flowers.

First, since my plant, Chance, sprouted and then died and then sprouted again; I had a very hard time keeping up with the rest of the class. If Chance hadn’t been this way, I could’ve gotten my goal of my plant being 18 cm tall. However, Chance ended up to be only 7 cm tall, which is really short for a Brassica plant. The average height of a Brassica Rapa plant is _ cm tall. Second, Chance only produced one pod, and even though it’s not mature yet, it might not produce the 40 seeds that I thought he would produce. Third, Chance only produced one flower. I thought he would produce 14. That’s quite a big difference. Three possible sources of error are:

Misplacement of first seedling.

Mitosis/Growth/Height Problems.

Not satisfactory soil, plant can’t grow in it.

Chance might’ve died the first time because the he came out of the soil. Plants do need soil to grow, since it has so much nutrients. So he might’ve gotten too much oxygen and died. Another reason might’ve been the problem with him growing. He did start to grow after he died the first time, but that was another seed. Maybe if he didn’t die the first time, he would’ve been taller. But, mitosis-wise, his roots could’ve had really slow ratings for mitosis. My third source of error is the quality of the soil. On the last day of the observations, Day 39, Mr. S was talking about how low our class germination rate was, and that he used a different soil this year than any of the other years. Well, I think that the plants had specific adaptations to the certain soil Mr. S used in past years, maybe the soil had perfect conditions for the plant to germinate, so when he changed the soil, the plants were confused and couldn’t germinate.

For a plant to grow and get taller, mitosis has to occur in two places. In the apical meristems on both the top of the stem and the bottom of the root tip, mitosis makes the plant grow up and down. To be able to get more nutrients for the plant and for firm anchorage in the soil, the root has to go through mitosis at the apical meristem at the tip of the root. The root will grow down, and the plant will obtain more nutrients. To get taller, be able to support the plant, transport sugar and water up the plant and to participate in photosynthesis, the apical meristem at the top of the stem of the plant has to go through mitosis to grow upward. As it grows upward, it may unravel more plant parts, like true leaves and flower buds.

“A seed is like a baby with its lunch in a lunch box.” quoted Mr. S’s College Biology Teacher, in a quite convincing, scientific voice. This quote is actually quite true, if you think about it. The three main parts of a seed are:

Seed Coat (‘lunchbox’): the protective, outer barrier of the seed.

Endosperm (‘lunch’): starchy food storage.

Embryo (‘baby’): young immature plant.

Pertaining to the quote, it is pretty self-explainatory. The seed coat serves as the ‘lunchbox’ for the embryo and endosperm, protecting them from harm. The endosperm serves as ‘lunch’, or food, for the embryo. Brassicas have great economic and commercial value, and play a major role in feeding the world population. They range from nutritious vegetables, mustards, and oil producing crops, to animal fodders and weeds. Six of the most important Brassica species are closely interrelated.

If we were to extend the lab, I would probably take the Brassica Fast Plants further by planting the seeds that the plants produced with other seeds, track the germination rates, and see what happens. Maybe the next generation will be different. But that’s just something to think about.

Anatomy of A Flower Vocab

peduncle- The stemlike form that holds up the whole flower.

receptacle- The part of the peduncle that is bigger and helps hold the flower up.

sepal- The green part of the flower above the receptacle and under the petals. When the flower is developing, this is the first thing you see.

petal- The brightly colored forms surrounding the reproductive parts above the sepal.

stamen- The pollen-making reproductive part of a flower, usually made up of a filament and an anther.

anther (pollen sac)- The part of the stamen that has the pollen.

filament- The thin part that looks like a white needle that has the anther on it.

pistil- The female part of the flower that has the ovules for reproduction and that includes the stigma, style, and ovary.

stigma- The part that gets pollen stuck on it, as well as the landing place/pad for pollen.

style- The skinny part of the pistil between the ovary and the stigma.

ovary- The lower part of a pistil that turns into a fruit when pollinated.

ovule- The small structure inside the ovary that has the eggs.

13. Embryo- Young immature plant.

14. Seed Coat- Protective, outer barrier of the seed.

15. Endosperm- Starchy food storage.

16. Hypocotyl- The below-ground parts of a seedling.

17. Epicotyl- The above-ground parts of a seedling.

18. Apical Meristems- The top and bottom of the embryonic axis where mitosis occurs.

19. Cotyledons- the first leaves a plant has, developed in embryo stage as a seed.20. Radicle & Embryonic Shoot- Parts of an embryo that will become the root & shoot system of a seedling.

Bibliography:

http://www.jburroughs.org/science/resources/flower/typicalflower.html

OMFG - that was a wild ride. High School Biology was a trip, man! :O

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biostudyblog · 5 years ago

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Classical Genetics

Gregor Mendel is the founder of genetics as we know it. In the 1850s, he bred garden peas in order to study patterns of heredity. He collected data from hundreds of plants across generations and used statistical analysis to predict these patterns.

In his experiments, he studied the law of dominance, the law of segregation, and the law of independent assortment.

Law of Dominance

When two homozygous (purebred) organisms for opposing traits are crossed, the offspring will be hybrid (they will carry two different alleles) but their phenotype will be that of the dominant trait.

Law of Segregation

The law of segregation says that during the formation of alleles, the two traits carried by each parent separate. Thus two hybrid parents, although they may have the phenotype for the dominant allele, can have a baby with the recessive phenotype (phenotype is what the organism looks like, while genotype are the actual alleles of the organism)

Monohybrid Cross

A monohybrid cross is an act of crossing two organisms that are hybrid for a single trait, such as Tt x Tt (T= tall t=short). The result of a monohybrid cross is 1:2:1 where there is a 25% chance the organism will be homozygous dominant, 50% chance the organism will be heterozygous dominant and a 25% chance the organism will be homozygous recessive.

Backcross or Testcross

If you don’t know whether an individual plant or animal is homozygous or heterozygous, it is effective to cross them with a homozygous recessive individual. If all the offspring display the dominant trait, the mystery parent is most likely homozygous dominant. If the offspring have a mix of dominant and recessive traits, the mystery parent is heterozygous dominant.

Law of Independent Assortment

When a cross is carried out between two individuals who are hybrid for two traits on separate chromosomes, during gamete formation, the genes for one trait (for example, height) are not inherited along with the genes for another trait (such as seed colour)

T= tall t=short Y=yellow y=green

The diagram above is of a dihybrid individual. T will be inherited along with Y, and t will be inherited along with y. The only factor that determines how the alleles are inherited is how the homologous pairs line up during metaphase I.

Here is a Punnett square for this dihybrid cross.

The phenotype ratio ends up being 9:3:3:1, as shown above.

Incomplete Dominance

Incomplete dominance leads to the blending of treats. For example, if a long watermelon (LL) crosses with a round watermelon (RR) to produce an oval watermelon (RL), incomplete dominance is at play.

Another example is the Japanese four o’clock flower. Below, 1 red flower and 1 white flower combine to make 4 pink flowers.

Codominance

In codominance, both traits show. For example, the MN blood group in humans is a codominant trait (don’t confuse these with blood types). These are based on distinct molecules on the surface of the cell. A person can be homozygous for M, homozygous for N, or heterozygous for MN, where both molecules appear on the blood cell.

Multiple Alleles

Most genes exist in two allelic forms, etc tall or short. When there are more than two alleles, the gene has multiple alleles. Human blood type is a good example, as there are 4 groups, determined by 3 alleles. Blood type can either be written as its letters A, B, O, and AB, or I^a, I^b, I^a I^b, and ii. “I” stands for immunoglobin.

Polygenic Inheritance

Some traits, like skin and hair colour result from the blending of several separate genes that vary along a continuum. They are controlled by multiple genes, and so are polygenic. This leads to a wide variation in genotype.

(y-axis is labelled: the proportion of the population)

Sex-Linked Genes

When a trait is carried on the X chromosome, it is sex-linked. Since women have 2 X chromosomes, if the trait is a recessive mutation, she will need to carry two mutated genes for it to express itself. If she only has one, she will be a carrier. Meanwhile, since men only have 1 chromosome (XY) they only need 1 gene for it to express itself. Recessive sex-linked traits are much more common that dominant sex-linked traits. This explains why men are much more likely to have sex-linked traits like colourblindness and haemophilia.

Epigenetics

In some scenarios, the environment can alter gene expression. For example, in fruit flies, the expression of the vestigial wings (short, and shrivelled) can repaired in higher temperatures.

Sex-Influenced Inheritance

Sex-influenced traits are not the same as linked traits. For example, baldness is a trait expressed both in men and women, however, it expresses itself very differently in the two sexes.

Karyotypes

Karyotypes are lab procedures, where the size, shape, and number of chromosomes are analyzed. This takes place during metaphase, as this is when the chromosomes are fully condensed. In our 46 chromosomes, we have 44 autosomes (22 pairs) and 2 sex chromosomes.

This karyotype is of an average biological male.

The Pedigree

A pedigree is a family tree that studies the inheritance of a specific trait. Normally, in these graphs, a woman is represented by a circle, and a man by a square. In the pedigree below, black shapes represent deaf people.

On this pedigree, deafness is shown to be autosomally recessive. We know it is not dominant, as when a deaf parent has children as shown in this pedigree, none of their children has the phenotype, and all the affected children have unaffected parents. We also know it isn’t sex-linked, as looking at the two daughters in the F3 generation, neither of their fathers is affected.

Mutations

Mutations are abnormalities within the genome. They can occur in the somatic (body) cells and can cause cancer, or they can occur during gametogenesis, and affect future offspring. (When the somatic cells are impacted, future generations are not.)

Gene mutations- Gene mutations are changes in a DNA sequence.

Chromosome mutations- Chromosome mutations are able to be observed under a light microscope. An example of a chromosome mutation is nondisjunction. Nondisjunction may add an entirely new chromosome. Some other types of chromosomal aberrations include:

Deletion- When a fragment lacking a centromere is lost during cell division

Inversion- When a chromosomal fragment reattaches to its original chromosome, but in the reverse orientation

Translocation- When a fragment of a chromosome becomes attached to a non-homologous chromosome

Nondisjunction

Nondisjunction is an error during meiosis, where homologous chromosomes do not separate properly. When this happens, one gamete has two homologues, while the other doesn’t have any.

An abnormal chromosomal condition is known as aneuploidy. If a chromosome is present in triplicate, the condition is called trisomy. For example, people with down syndrome have 3 #21 chromosomes, and so have trisomy-21. Any organism with an extra set of chromosomes is called a triploid. The cells of the endosperm or cotyledon of seed are triploid. When an organism has more than 3 sets of chromosomes, they are a polyploid. Polyploid plants have abnormally large flowers and fruits.

#genetics #classical genetics #mendelian genetics #mutation #gene mutation #punnett square #biology #plant biology #animal biology #sat biology #SAT subject test #biology studyblr #studyblr

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paechey · 6 years ago

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finally she posts that damn sim dump!! sCREMS IM SORRY HERE U GO

i got tons and tons and tooons of requests for these two in my asks to be released and after finally fixing some issues with uh.. faces not showing up for the other clothing sections, i can finally release these two!!

TOU n’ INFO: > only the main outfit has been put together + makeup, the rest are blank slates > feel free to use them for whatever u want!! legacies, challenges, etc > change their clothes, traits, makeup if you want > tag me if you use them!! i’d love to see my lil babies <3

dl below!

pisces cotyledon (left) definitely the extrovert out of the two and very outspoken having grown up with two mothers who weren’t afraid to challenge people’s views. a freelance graphic designer and video ad maker, she hopes to convey her views and opinions of the world through her visual art. feels as though she must protect honey’s gentle nature as much as possible. generally starts huge debates when people find out she doesn’t like cheese.

dl: tray files / skin details (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6) / pupil overlay (optional) / lashes v2 / sclera (optional) / eyes / eyeshadow / blush / hair / top / skirt / tights / socks / boots / birthmark / no EA lashes

honey echeveria (right) honey is definitely the more.. quirky one, born in a fairly hippie family, she’s grown up living as eco-friendly as possible. living in a small shack like house with only the essentials and using the rest of her acres for crops which she lives off on financially. also she doesn’t like wearing shoes, pisces finds this difficult to understand but whatever i guess?? just clean your feet before you come inside honey!!

dl: tray files / skin details (1, 2, 3, 4, 5) / pupil overlay (optional) / sclera (optional) / lashes v3 / eyes / eyeshadow / blush / highlighter / lipstick / hair / bow / top / overalls / tattoos optional (1, bee tattoo cannot find) / no EA lashes

there might be cc missing but that’s just the default skin and the one or two things i couldn’t find!

#the sims 4 #ts4 #simblr #sim dump #sims #lovers or friends?? we just dont know :*+))#i hope i got everything oof

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wanderingtrails · 5 years ago

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Plant Index

I figured that every plant journal really should start with a list of plants that gets updated. So here is my own list of plant children :) Most of my acquisition dates are rough estimates, but I am hoping future me keeps up with the idea!

In Propagation

Echeveria ‘Mensa’ Offspring (October 21, 2019)

Unknown Succulents #1

Wandering Jew -- young branch -- January 16, 2020

Sansevieria Trifasciata ‘Laurentii’ (?) -- -- January 19, 2020

Unknown Succulents #2 -- -- January 19, 2020

Unknown Lipstick Plant -- -- January 19/ Jan 26, 2020

ZZ plant -- March 19, 2020

Epipremnum Aureum ‘Golden Pothos’ -- March 16, 2020

Anthurium -- March 20, 2020

Monstera Adansonii -- Cheesy Jr - May 13, 2020

Monstera Adansonii - Mini Cheesy - May 13, 2020

Monkey Puzzle Tree -- May 25, 2020

Monstera Adansonii -- Swiss Jr --

Persea Americana Experiment (Avocado Seeds)

Persea Americana -- Alpha -- January 14, 2020

Persea Americana -- Beta -- January 14, 2020

Persea Americana -- Gamma -- January 14, 2020

Persea Americana -- Delta -- January 19, 2020

Persea Americana -- Epsilon -- January 26, 2020

Persea Americana -- Zeta -- January 26, 2020

Persea Americana -- Eta -- January 26, 2020

Persea Americana -- Theta -- February 2, 2020

Persea Americana -- Iota -- February 2, 2020

Persea Americana -- Kappa -- February 10, 2020

Persea Americana -- Lambda -- February 23, 2020

Persea Americana -- Mu -- February 23, 2020

Persea Americana -- Nu -- February 23, 2020

Persea Americana -- Xi -- March 30, 2020

Persea Americana -- Omicron -- March 30, 2020

Persea Americana -- Pi -- March 30, 2020

My Plants

Sensitive Plant -- June 1, 2020

Colacasia -- May 29, 2020 (?)

Moss Terrarium -- Pine and Company -- May 19, 2020

Hardy Maidenhair -- William --May 18, 2020

African Violet -- May 2, 2020

String of Dolphins - March 15, Potted: April 6, 2020

Fairy garden -- April 24, 2020

Mini sensitive plant -- April 24, 2020

Angel Wing Begonia -- April 24, 2020

Silver Satin Pothos - Sylvia - April 3, 2020

Phalaenopsis -- March 30, 2020

Epipremnum Aureum -- Marble Queen -- Dec 1, 2019, March 22, 2020

Philodendron ‘Jungle Boogie’ -- March 16, 2020

Sedum Morganianum -- Burro’s Tail -- March 15, 2020

Unknown Hawarthia -- -- N/A

Cotyledon tomentosa -- -- Feb 28, 2020

Hoya Kerrii --Serduszko -- Feb 22, 2020

Maranta Leuconeura -- Melaine -- Feb 22, 2020

Epipremnum Aureum -- ‘Marble Queen’ -- Feb 20, 2020

Microsorum Musifolium -- Kraken -- Feb 20, 2020

Monstera Deliciosa -- -- Feb18, 2020

Tillandsia Bulbosa -- -- Feb18, 2020

Philodendron Cordatum -- Serpentine pt 2-- Dec 1, 2019, Potted: Feb 10, 2020

Unknown plant bulbs -- -- Feb 10, 2020

Alocasia Sarian -- -- Feb 8, 2020

Tillandsia Fasciculata Tricolor -- -- Feb 8, 2020

Tillandsia butzii -- -- Feb 8, 2020

Tillandsia Ionantha scaposa -- -- Feb 8, 2020

Mini Phalaenopsis -- Child #1 -- Feb 2, 2020

Mini Phalaenopsis -- Child #2 -- Feb 2, 2020

Calathea roseopicta -- Roza -- Feb 2, 2020

Calathea picturata -- Margaret -- Feb 2, 2020

Peperomia argyreia -- Wanda -- Jan 26. 2020

Epipremnum Aureum ‘Neon' -- -- Dec 1, 2019, Potted: Jan 26, 2020

Calathea Zebrina -- Cecilia -- January 25, 2020

Philodendron Cordatum -- Serpentine -- Dec 1, 2019, Potted: Jan 19, 2020

Epipremnum Aureum ‘Jade’ -- Pheonix -- Dec 1, 2019, Potted: Jan 19, 2020

Unkown Plant Bulbs -- Alara, Ellie, N/A-- Jan 19, 2020

Fittonia -- -- Jan 4, 2020

Alocasia Macrorrhizos 'Stingray' -- Felicia -- Dec 31, 2019

Selaginella Kraussiana -- Frosty -- Dec 30, 2019

Nephrolepis Exaltata -- Cotton Candy Fern -- Dec 30, 2019

Philodendron Rojo Congo -- -- December 30, 2019

Marimo Moss Ball -- Chance -- Dec 29, 2019

Crassula Ovata -- Jade -- Dec 17, 2019

Unknown Succulent #1 -- -- Dec 17, 2019

Monstera Adasonii -- Swiss -- Dec 15, 2019

Hoya Carnosa -- Baby Hoya -- Dec 5, 2019

Hoya Carnosa -- -- Dec 1, 2019

Chlorophytum Comosum -- Spider Plant #1-- Oct 21, 2019

Iresine Herbstii -- Bloody Mary, Mary -- Oct 16, 2019

Mini African Violet -- Viola -- Oct 16, 2019

Echeveria ‘Mensa’ -- -- Oct 16, 2019

Hendera Helix -- Ivy -- Oct 16, 2019

Monstera Adasonii -- Cheesy -- Nov 21, 2019

Codiaeum Variegatum ‘Petra’ -- Petra -- Nov 19, 2019

Sansevieria Cylindrica -- Needle -- Nov 9, 2019

Tillandsia Circinata -- Air plant -- Late Summer 2018

Philodendron Hederaceum ‘Brasil’ -- -- Late Summer 2018

Bromeliaceae Vriesea -- Stripe -- Mid Summer 2018

Tradescantia Pallida -- Wandering Jew -- Spring 2018

Philodendron Selloum -- Antler -- Spring 2018

Bromeliaceae Guzmania -- Bromeliad -- Early Dec 2017

Mini Phalaenopsis -- Mother Orchid -- Mid Dec 2017

Stromanthe -- Triostar -- Summer 2017

Calathea Lancifolia -- Rattlesnake -- Summer 2017

Monstera Deliciosa -- Monstera -- 2016

Gardening Attempt

hosta #2 -- May 29, 2020

Red leaf banana -- May 26, 2020

Hosta -- May 11, 2020

Woodland Strawberries -- May 4, 2020

Pine Berry -- April 24, 2020

Dark Eyes Fuchsia -- March 30, 2020

Unknown Fuchsia -- March 30, 2020

Blaze Fuchsia -- March 30, 2020

Oregano -- March 30, 2020

Parsley -- March 30, 2020

Basil -- March 30, 2020

Strawberry -- March 30, 2020

Green onion -- March 13, 2020

My “Shared” Plants

African Palm (?) -- June 1, 2020

Codiaeum Variegatum ‘Petra’ -- June 1, 2020

Epipremnum Aureum ‘Golden Pothos’ -- March 16, Potted: May 23, 2020

Monstera Deliciosa -- Monsti -- Potted: January 2, 2020

Spider Plant #2 -- -- Potted: December 29, 2019

Christmas Cactus -- -- December 1, 2019

Coffee Plant -- -- Nov 19, 2019

Epipremnum Aureum ‘Golden’ -- -- November 19, 2019

Alocasia x Amazonica -- Alocasia -- October 19, 2019

#plantblr #plant list #plant mom #plants #plant journal #plant hoarding

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succygirl · 6 years ago

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Hello! Would you be so kind as to help me identify these little green and red lads? (#3 is the one in the front, not the elephant bush in the back)

Thank you!

~~~~~~~~

Hi!

Well in the first picture there’s Sedum adolphii ‘Firestorm’ and to the left of it is some Sedum pachyphyllum.

Second picture looks like a Cotyledon orbiculata ‘Silver Peak’

Those little guys in the third photo look like Graptopetalum paraguayense BUT they could also be a xGraptosedum ‘Ghosty’. Those two plants look incredibly similar and the only way I know for sure to tell them apart is by their flowers. The Ghosty has yellow flowers while the paraguayense has white flowers with red spots on them. They’re just wee babies it looks like so once they get bigger and flower hopefully you’ll be able to tell the difference, care for them is the same regardless of what they turn out to be fortunately :)

#succulents #sedum #Graptopetalum #cotyledon #plants #succulent submit #succulent ID #submission #sillytillywilly

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trenchcoatpilots · 2 years ago

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Simple Ways to Maximize Yield When Growing Cannabis from Seeds

Our favorite part about growing your own weed from seed rather than clone is that you get to see the entire life cycle and enjoy a plant that is one-of-a-kind, just like you. For the first time, an entirely new genetic makeup will enter the world, and if you're lucky, something extraordinary may be born.

Raising a cannabis seedling, on the other hand, necessitates some patience, gentle hands, and a dash of luck. Fortunately, pot seeds are incredibly vigorous because they are endosperm seeds, which means they have almost fully formed cotyledon leaves before you even add water. Here's a quick rundown of the techniques we've found to be the most effective for starting seeds and growing your seedling into a healthy plant ready for transplanting. Don't forget that Pot for Pot's Complete Grow Kits eliminates the guesswork, ensuring that you always have a fantastic harvest!

1. Germinating Your Cannabis Seed

Soak your seed in a small container of lukewarm water and place it in a dark and warm place (such as a kitchen cabinet) for 12-24 hours, but no longer. Drenching the seed thoroughly absorbs the water, activating the germination process on both a physical and chemical level. This helps to loosen the shell by softening it, making it easier for the embryo to crack open. When your seed sinks to the bottom, it is ready to be planted, and it may produce a small taproot. Even if a seed does not sink or produce a taproot, it can still be planted. When your seed sinks to the bottom, it is ready to be planted, and it may produce a small taproot. Even if a seed does not sink or produce a taproot, it can still be planted. When a seed sprouts a taproot (also known as a tail), it becomes more vulnerable and should be planted before this root emerges.

2. Planting Your Weed Seed

We get the best results with seedling pellets made of compressed peat moss and coco husk. Soak it in water for 10 to 15 minutes to expand it. Using lukewarm water instead of cold water will shorten the time it takes for the pellet to expand fully. When your seedling pellet has absorbed enough water and expanded to its maximum size, squeeze gently to remove excess water. The growing medium should have the consistency of a damp sponge and should not leave streaks on the table. For your seed, make a small hole about 1/4 inch deep. Remove the seed from its bath with a spoon. If a taproot has emerged, take care not to damage it. Place the seed gently into the hole and lightly cover it with pellet dirt. Your seedling will emerge from the ground within two weeks of starting the germination process. The longer it takes for a seed to germinate, the older it is.

3. Weed Seedling Sprouts

In the most exciting stage, your plant baby will emerge from the ground in 1-2 weeks, with the average appearing 5 to 7 days after planting. When your seedling emerges from the soil, its shell may take a few days to fall off. It's best to leave it alone; nature will take care of it. If it hasn't risen above ground after about two weeks, the chances of success are slim, and it's best to try again. Even the best seeds germinate at an 85% rate. When your seedling emerges from the ground, it will seek direct sunlight.

4. Lighting for Your Cannabis Seedling

Marijuana seedlings require a medium amount of light—enough to provide energy for growth but not so much that they burn. If you leave your seedling in direct sunlight, the leaves will curl, and if you give it too little light, it will stretch. Seedlings want to see a direct light source when growing outside to avoid stretching. A sunny windowsill with more than half a day of sunlight works wonders if you're inside. Otherwise, a grow light 24 to 30 inches away is an excellent supplement. Your seedling should not grow any taller than 6 inches.

5. Watering Your Cannabis Seedling

It is best to use bottled, distilled, or filtered water for cannabis plants, as these are chlorine-free. Allow tap water to sit for 48 to 96 hours before watering to allow the chlorine to dissipate. Boiling for 20 minutes can also remove chlorine. Under normal circumstances, after soaking your seedling pellet, it should contain all of the moisture your plant requires before emerging from the ground. As it grows, it will only require about a shot glass of water per week to keep the medium moist. Seedlings don't drink much water, which is understandable given their small size. Your plant will thrive in a damp but not soaking-wet growing medium.

6. First Cannabis Seedling Leaves & Hardening Off

The cotyledons are the first set of leaves to emerge from the ground. These tiny leaves are densely packed with energy and will grow to about 1/4 inch in size before falling off. Your second set of leaves will be single-bladed and serrated, similar to regular pot leaves.

They will grow to be several inches long. Your first set of leaves will appear during their growth. Typically, three blades are used. This is when your plant begins to "harden off." You will notice that the stem begins to harden and develop thicker skin. As the plant's leaves grow larger, they can handle more sunlight, so place it in more direct sunlight—the lighter, the better.

7. Transplanting Cannabis Seedlings

When the baby cannabis plant has hardened off, about ten days after germination, roots will begin to emerge from the bottom of your seedling pellet, and the plant will be ready to be transplanted into a larger pot. Handle your seedling gently at this stage to avoid damaging the roots. Weed planting must be done with caution because any stress will slow its growth.

8 Separating the Girls from the Boys

Dig a small hole in your larger pot for the seedling, add some rooting booster to the bottom of the hole, and carefully plant the entire seedling pellet with your weed baby.

You'll be able to tell the sex of your plant after about 4-6 weeks of growth. Any male plants should be separated and disposed of. This is an important step in marijuana cultivation because female plants are more potent and valuable. You also don't want male plants interfering with the development of your female plants.

Why are you only interested in female weed plants?

Only female marijuana plants produce high-potency THC buds. You want to ensure that all of your Cannabis plants are female. If you have a male plant, it can fertilize the other female plants, causing them to produce seeds rather than flowers and nuggets.

As a grower, you must be able to tell the difference between a female and a male plant in order to remove the male plants before they contaminate your crop. When growing a plant from a seed from a nug, you have a 50/50 chance of getting a male plant.

There is a sizable market for seeds that only produce female plants. Even these seeds aren't a guarantee that you'll get a female plant. To ensure a good crop, germinate and plant a large number of marijuana seeds, then separate the females from the males when the plants begin to show signs of sexuality.

How to Determine Whether a Weed Seed Is Male or Female

Your plant will develop between its nodes as it matures sexually. Nodes are the points on the plant where the branches meet the stalk. The following characteristics will assist you in determining the gender of your plant:

Male plants will have small pollen sacs clustered in the nodes.

Stigmas will form in the nodes of female plants. Male plant pollen can be captured by stigmas. Stigmas have hair-like veins that extend from the node sacs.

Hermaphrodite plants have stigmas as well as pollen sacs in their nodes. When subjected to extreme stress, these female plants develop both sex organs.

Once you've determined the sex of your plants, you should remove the male or hermaphrodite plants because they can interfere with the harvest of your female plants. That is why it is critical to germinate and grow several cannabis plants to this stage in order to ensure that you have at least one healthy female plant.

9. Weed Plant, Weed Plant, Grow!

The plant will transform in front of your eyes. She will grow taller and branch out, releasing leaves and a network of branches. It is your responsibility as a grower to meet her needs so she can reach her full potential. With a good grow kit, this means exposing her to as much light as possible and watering only when she is thirsty.

This is the vegetative stage of your marijuana plant. The goal at this stage is to keep her healthy and to allow the plant to grow as large and strong as possible so that she can support a large number of flowers.

Conclusion:

Growing weed from seed is not a difficult process, but it takes patience, time, and dedication to doing it right. Start by germinating your seeds and then move them into the soil when they have sprouted. Water and feed your plants regularly and separate the females from the males once they start showing signs of sexuality. With these steps, you'll be able to grow a successful crop of marijuana plants and reap the rewards of your hard work.

#grow cannabis #grow weed #grow marijuana #cannabis seeds

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reefertilizer-blog · 6 years ago

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When we last left off, we had three seeds in party cup planters inside our space bucket. The taproot of that seed is attempting to drive its way down through the soil and start developing its first roots. While the taproot is traveling down to find more water, the other half of that germinated seed will start looking for sunlight. The first set of leaves you will see are called the cotyledons. These baby leaves were tucked into that seed before and will now start collecting energy through photosynthesis.

Read our article for week 1

Here's the sprout in a humidity tent (sandwich bag). This helps keep the sprout in a humid environment and prevents the soil from drying out too fast.

A happy cannabis sprout will grow low to the soil. Keep the soil moist, not wet. Don't let the soild dry out either! This is 1 week after I planted the seed

Week 2

Now that the seed is sprouted, it is very fragile. It will need to be in an environment that is humid and warm. You’ll want to keep these sprouted seeds in a temperature range between 20 and 29 degrees Celsius. The humidity should be about 70%. The best way to maintain this humidity is to place a sandwich bag over the planter. This keeps moisture in the soil from evaporating too quickly. Growth will look like it’s slow at first, but in the soil, there’s plenty of action. That sprout is spreading it’s root system quickly to help support growth later on. This sprout stage will last a few weeks. You will notice that early sets of leaves won’t look like your typical cannabis leaves, this is normal. By the third and fourth set of leaves, it will start looking like your typical cannabis plant, these are called the true leaves.

Uh Oh, Your Cannabis Seeds Didn’t Sprout

It’s not a big deal, sometimes it happens to the best of us. In my case only two of the three seeds took root. There are several reasons a seed might not turn into a sprout.

Too wet, or too dry

If your soil medium gets to dry, it will damage the sensitive hairs that cover the taproot. If the soil is too wet, the taproot will drown. You want to keep the soil moist, not dry and not soaking wet. Giving the soil a nice misting of pH 6-6.5 water every few days should be enough.

Too cold, or too hot

Extreme temperatures will definitely harm you cannabis sprout. Keep the temperature between 20 and 29 degrees Celsius. Anything outside that range is risky.

Planting too deep, or too shallow

If you plant your seeds too deep, they won’t have enough strength to reach the surface of the soil and start photosynthesis. If the seed is planted too shallow, it will potentially dry out and die. The best depth to plant a seed is at 1/2″ or 1.25cm.

Bad seeds or genetics

Some seeds just aren’t viable. If a seed isn’t stored correctly, its quality will be compromised. Fresh seeds from a reputable supplier are usually the best seeds in my experience.

This is the same sprout 13 days from germination.

Week 3

Your sprout should be growing a little bit each day. This growth will get faster and faster until you will have to transplant it into a larger planter. This early stage from germination to the beginning of veg will take 3-4 weeks.

Keep your soil moist and avoid overwatering or letting your plant dry out.

Through week 3 we will continue to monitor our seedlings as they grow. You will also want to make sure air is circulating around this sprout. A small usb fan is perfect for this.

Feeding Cannabis Sprouts

The soil mix we used already contains nutrients. The potting soil, worm casting, and Reefertilizer Start all contain nutrients that your young seedling will slowly feed off of. Also, the seed itself contains nutrients that will help get it started. Because these factors, you won’t need to start feeding your plants until the first few sets of true leaves form around week 3 or 4. When you do start feeding you will be starting with a 1/4 or 1/2 strength dose of nutrients.

Things to watch out for in week 2-3 of growing cannabis

Overwatering

Your plant is still in its baby phase, and it can only take so much water. You might feel like watering it every day will help it grow faster, when in fact you’re hurting your plant. Your plant’s roots need water as well as air, and if your soil is always soaking wet your roots will drown. Keep the soil moist by misting it with a spray bottle. When you have a humidity bag (sandwich bag) over the planter, you probably will only need to mist your plants once, maybe twice a week.

Give them light

Your cannabis sprouts will need a minimum of 16 hours of light a day. The distance between the light and your sprout also matters. I’m using a LED grow light so I’ll be maintaining a distance of around 12 inches. If you’re using CFL light (fluorescent) they will need to be much closer (2-3 inches). Your sprout will tell you if it’s getting enough light by growing short and fast. If the sprout is stretching, it means the light is too far and the plant is stretching to get closer. Stretched sprouts can easily be fixed by transplanting them into a larger planter and covering the elongated stem in soil.

Thanks for taking the time to read this article. If you found it in any way helpful, please share it with others who might benefit.

If you have any questions, please fill in a comment below. I will try and answer them as fast as possible.

If you want to learn even more about growing cannabis, why not download our free grow guide? By joining our newsletter group we will send you our grow guide pdf. The newsletter will keep you up to date with our latest blog posts, as well as special offers and exciting announcements. Join today!

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Cheers! Mike Drouin #GrowGoodWeed

The post Week 2 & 3 – Cannabis Sprout appeared first on Reefertilizer.

#cannabis #grow weed #cannabis nutrients #grow good weed

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cannabillie · 2 years ago

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What You Need Know About Cannabis Seedling Stages

The seedling stage can certainly be a looming concern for novice states. Along with your three easy steps, however, even the inexperienced growers will handle the weed seedlings confidently.

Weed seedlings could be tricky to help keep alive, specifically away from law school growers. It has a stable understanding of baby plants and their requirements, though the all-important plant stage can certainly be a lot less frightening.

Continue reading for 3 simple measures to growing healthy baby plants.

1st Step: Find the Right Genetics, Storage units, and Medium on your Seedlings

When acquiring your seeds, you have to actively search away the proper pressure to suit your needs, your experience and skill like a gardener, budget, grow equipment, preferences, however you like and effect, and whether growing outdoors or in the home will determine which strain will create the most effective results to suit your needs.

2nd Step: Use the Best suited Germination Techniques

Weed seeds need four things so that you can germinate: water, time, warmth, and darkness. This means you expand healthy seedlings, germinate the seeds by using any from the following techniques.

Properly place your weed seeds between a few moist bits of paper hand towel, and place it all in a plastic container with a lid. Sustain your container within a warm, dark place (temperatures between 20–25° C are ideal). Keep a slight bust in the sport bike helmet, allowing for some fresh air exchange.

Otherwise, make use of the Feminized Starter Kits or the RQS Autoflowering will supply your plant seeds with the right conditions from your get-go. It has nice pots full of perlite and beneficial bacteria, or perhaps a propagator and lights to breathe life with your seeds.

3rd Step: Mastering the rose Stage

Now that the seedlings are in their garden soil, the actual challenge begins. Cannabis seedlings are really fragile, informed with just frail roots and also a smallish pair of cotyledons (that starting set of small rectangular leaves) slightest stressors can defeat your child plants several times. By finding the time to know your seedlings and the precise needs, however, you'll automatically learn how to optimize their environment and make them advance to strong vegetative crops.

Comprehending the Seedling Stage

Indoors that are dark, hard shell, cannabis plant seeds, house all the mandatory genetic information to sprout and prior to big, delicious plants. When subjected to humidity and warmth, seeds are able to absorb water from their environment. This procedure is known as imbibition, and it's the key alive for all plants.

When water enters a seed, it initiates special enzymes that trigger the expansion of the taproot (the small white root that leaps out of plant seeds when germinated properly). This root commences to push more deeply underground on the lookout for more water whilst the seed starting sends a blast up and out of your soil in look of light.

Weed seeds already contain two cotyledons (or embryonic leaves) that unravel and force the seed unit from the blast. After the cotyledons emerge, cannabis flowers will develop their starting set of true leaves. All these will grow outside of the key stem and have just one ring finger.

#cannabistraininginillinois #dispensarytraining #dispensarytraininginillinois #dispensaryjobsillinois #cannabisinillinois #CannabisSeedling #SeedlingStages

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roysfarm · 2 years ago

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#Agriculture #CropFarming #CropProduction #Farming

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thecoroutfitters · 6 years ago

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Written by R. Ann Parris on The Prepper Journal.

Sprouts can be a great solution for preppers at all levels, as well as our animals. They can be had and done in a million and one ways, eliminate some of the climate issues we face in both hot and cold environments, require little space and little time, and are packed with nutrients. They also have some nice morale benefits, providing fresh green foods and sometimes even a crunch during times not much else will grow.

Wide Variety

If you don’t like sprouts, give them a second try. Just trying one or a few and giving up on them is missing out.

Personally, I’m not big on alfalfa or the “moo mixes”. They taste like grass to me, and I don’t dig the texture.

Flip around to radish. I love it, but it’s typically some hot and spicy stuff. If you packed a sandwich or wrap with radish, a lot of people would be unhappy, but it’s great for finger-picking snacks playing cards and flavoring anything from sandwiches and salads to soups and stir fry.

There’s a whole world to choose from, with a huge range of textures and flavors, from amaranth, brassicas and popcorn to pea shoots and sunflower.

Psst…Buy regular ol’ garden seed as often as possible – it’s the same stuff and will cost a lot less, especially while we’re in the sampling phase.

Once we’ve got them growing, we can use them in everything we would a lettuce or fresh vegetable – soups, stir fry, salads, sandwiches, stackers, omelets, and wraps.

Health Concerns

It’s never a good idea to eat one thing to excess, which is where a lot of problems come in with sprouts (and wild edibles). There are sprouts that pregnant women shouldn’t eat. Likewise, there are a few that will interact with preexisting medical conditions or herbal treatments. It’s not common or huge, but do a little research.

Types & Terms

As sprouts gain in popularity, culinary and botanical definitions are shifting, and it can be painful to keep track of the stage being discussed.

Most people neither need to know nor care if there should be a scientifically or government determined dividing line between the plant category and what we call it when we’re eating its leaves. Given what consensus conventions have repeatedly done to Pluto, I’d rather we all just live in peace with our immature edible greenery.

It’s not worth getting wrapped around the axle over. Many people and most specialists have foibles. I have my own knee-jerk at bullet-ammo and clip-mag mix-ups, and seeing an OP or heirloom seller proudly declare “Non-GMO!” like its particular OP or heirloom is special in that way, so I try to remember that some people care deeply about precise terms.

I’m using “sprouts” as an umbrella for the whole shebang anyway, cotyledons through baby leaves. Don’t be put out over it.

Seed Sucks

A major consideration for preppers, is that sprouts and microgreens are an absolute seed suck. We’re going to eat them long before they have a chance to make more seed for collection.

There’s a really incredible ratio between many sprouting seeds and their green yields, with anywhere from a teaspoon to a tablespoon capable of filling a jar or 8×8” to 12×12” square, but it’s something to be aware of.

That seed use is one of the reasons we – as preppers especially – want to get the most bang for the buck out of our sprouts.

Growing Methods

When we grow wheat for a couple of days and then cook it as soon as it has “tails” from the roots, that’s sprouted grain (which hugely increases feed value for us, birds, and small ruminants, and can be cooked as-is for cereals, soups and “rice” side dishes, or ground for flour).

When we do sprouts in jars, that’s about the furthest stage we want to take them to. Leaves will start getting damaged (which leads to rot), and they’ll have more drainage problems if we let them go much longer.

Working in stackable trays we can grow a greater density for longer, due to the airflow.

Some types will grow to full-on baby leaves using just water and sunlight. Some may require a substrate of some kind to get there – paper towel, cloth towel, small pea gravel or aquarium stone that we keep lightly damp for them. Others will happily send roots through a mesh or grate into a drip-catch pan for the support and greater absorption they need.

Those can be a big boost for anyone with limited resources, whether it’s income or space now, or a prepper making the most out of their seed stash. It lets us get a lot more yield per seed and without added nutrients.

For others, we do need nutrients, and in some cases a soil or soil-substitute substrate. Sometimes, though, those nutrients can be as simple as sticking a used teabag or cheesecloth holding used coffee grounds in a gallon jug and using that for root-zone watering.

For the larger microgreens that need a little more help yet, I personally like good ol’ dirt, anywhere from a half-inch to an inch deep.

I’m not big into “needy” things, so I don’t always do sprouts the way others recommend.

I rinse jars 1-2x a day and angle them to drain. I sometimes use a gentle spray from a can or hose for bulk microgreens and sprouts, but for small amounts and delicate green sprouts at the cotyledon-leaf stage, I routinely just mist, and I routinely only water leafy sprouts once a day.

I also keep a damp cloth over my tray-grown sprouts if they’re in the house or arid conditions, with the lids over those, or I use clear “greenhouse” lids to help hold moisture.

In really humid conditions, I go with only the draped cloth so excess moisture can evaporate at will.

Play with it.

Especially small-scale, it’s a little like finding a sweet spot for sourdough starter. Where they are exactly on a counter changes their airflow and temperature. How densely we plant and how big we want our sprouts and microgreens will also affect how much attention they need and which methods work best.

Materials

We don’t need specialty jars or lids. We can poke tons of holes in a peanut butter tub or cover any ol’ jar with a sock, torn shirt, or garden mesh.

I do still use my original Sproutmaster trays at home. I gave up on the divider early on and went to a paper towel liner, but they’re way sturdier than I expected when I first unwrapped mine and they’re handy enough, stack well enough with thin dish towels between the tray and lids.

(DO NOT believe that the mini’s —or the jar versions – will work for packing. It requires rubber bands, bungees, and it either ends up not draining or you end with drips.)

When I expanded, I didn’t buy more. It’s too easy to wrap a dish towel or storm mesh around a baker’s drying rack if I want improved drainage and airflow, or line anything from a lasagna pan to a 1020 tray with the same, a paper towel, or soil, or just arrange a tilted bracer and put in drainage holes above seed height on one end.

It works, whether giving them gentle sprays or mists, dunking the whole tray real quick, or approximating a flood-drain hydroponics or aquaponics system where we pour on one side and let it trickle across and drain.

Sprouted Fodder

Just like sprouts offer us condensed nutrients and nice, fresh, and even crunchy foods to augment our diets, sprouted fodder has a ton of benefits for livestock – https://www.motherearthnews.com/homesteading-and-livestock/sprouted-fodder.

Basically, it’s growing seed grains (and rarely beans) to the stage right before they develop true leaves, usually 7-9-12 days. It needs nothing more than water and some light in the last 3-5 days, and typically boosts proteins, minerals, and vitamins by 2-4 times as well as increasing the digestibility of the seed. Even non-grazing game birds like ducks can be fed sprouted fodder.

It, too, is a seed suck – but it has the same seed-to-mass conversion as human sprouts, too, 4-8 x the mass. And, remember, that mass is pound-for-pound 2-4x “better” in the common focus areas in livestock feed, as well as being more filling and covering more of the daily fiber/dry matter needs

The way some people grow, it’s also water needy. That can be reduced by reusing water from sprouted fodder in gardens, for larger livestock, and through the fodder system again after some base physical filtration (due to residues, it’s still going to need replacement after a few passes).

I have the best luck going with thin layers, not the “less than a half-inch thick” that others are able to make work. I tend to aim for 3-4 layers of seed in depth.

I also sprout more than barley, wheat and oats in my mats, everything from native pasture grasses and common hay seed mixes to millet, pigeon and partridge peas, vetch, and cow beans. As with fresh feeds, the latter get fed in much lower density due to richness, but I find it to be a nice boost.

I’ll also do mats of stockpiled bulk seed like forage turnips and beets when germination on those start to get lower than I prefer.

For some additional sprouted fodder information and setup ideas, check out:

https://104homestead.com/sprouted-barley-fodder/

https://www.attainable-sustainable.net/sprouting-grains-fodder/

http://blogs.cornell.edu/organicdairyinitiative/resources/sprouted-fodder/

I wouldn’t try to grow enough to truly feed livestock, especially large livestock, but even small amounts can see big boosts in production and health. (So can 2-4 day sprouting grains and beans, instead of feeding that grain dry or just-soaked.)

Sprouts for Preppers

Sprouts can check a lot of boxes for us and our livestock. We have to plan for the high seed use and additional drain on water supply, but it gives us an option for fresh foods and healthier foods even in very small spaces and commonly even without light.

Even if we’ve had some bad sprout experiences before, it’s worth giving them another go, from sprouted grains to microgreens and fodder mats.

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The post Sprouts for Preppers appeared first on The Prepper Journal.

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reefertilizer-blog · 6 years ago

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Hello growers! Let’s learn about feeding our plants their first dose of nutrients.

Cannabis needs 4 things to grow well. Light, carbon dioxide, water, and nutrients. Leaves are responsible for the first two, while the roots focus on acquiring water and nutrients.

When seedlings are first planted, they have enough stored energy to unfurl their first set of leaves (cotyledons) and begin driving a tap root down through the soil.

Marijuana seeds are dicotyledonous. The seedlings will acquire energy through a process that breaks down food material stored in the endosperm of the seed. Here, the seedlings have plenty of energy and don’t need any addition of nutrients from fertilizers right away. The role of creating energy is assumed by its cotyledons or baby leaves. This is the part where the process of photosynthesis kicks in. The seedlings take minerals and sugars to parts of the growing plant that requires them. After a while, real leaves will start developing and take over the process of creating energy for the seedling.

When to start feeding your plants Reefertilizer nutrients

After your plants grow 3 sets of leaves, they can then receive their first low dosage feeding. This is also the time I like to transplant the plants from a solo cup to a larger pot. After the transplant, give them a low dose feeding. This is also when the vegetative stage begins.

If you’re using Reefertilizer Grow, a low dose is 5ml for 4L of water or a ¼ teaspoon for 1L of water.

You will be feeding your plants once a week until the last week before harvest. Your soil might dry out before the week is over; in this case, water your plants with pH balanced water.

How to feed your plants nutrients

Mixing the fertilizer with water and feeding your plants is a simple process with a product like Reefertilizer. First, you will want to know how much water you will need. 1 liter of water per plant is a good place to start for most grows. You want to give them just enough liquid that a little bit drips from the bottom of the planter after watering. This ensures that the soil is completely saturated and nutrients aren’t being wasted as runoff.

In this demonstration, we will be feeding 1 plant its first low dose of nutrients.

Start with a 1-liter jug with full of tap water.

A note about tap water…

The quality of tap water can be drastically different from one city to the next. Tap water contains several minerals and chemicals. Most of these are in trace amounts and in most cases won’t affect your plants grown in soil. Chlorine is one chemical found in most tap water, it won’t harm your plants, but it might damage living organisms in your soil. You can easily remove chlorine from your water by letting it rest uncovered overnight. The chlorine will eventually evaporate out of the water.

Measure the correct amount of Reefertilizer nutrients.

pH your water after adding Reefertilizer.

In a smaller cup, we will add a low dose of Reefertilizer according to the chart above.

Pour in a small amount of water from the jug and give it a good mix. Using a small jar with a lid is a great way to shake it up so the powder is completely dissolved.

Pour this liquid back into your jug and give it a stir.

At this point, you should pH your solution with a pH pen. We have one available in our store. Cannabis grown in soil likes a pH in the range of 6 and 6.8. This makes sure that the nutrients are chemically available to the root system.

You may need to use a product like pH up or down to adjust the pH (Amazon link). Natural products like citric acid (lowers pH) and sodium bicarbonate (raises pH) can also be used to adjust the pH as well.

You’re now ready to feed your plants!

Water around the base of your plant and move outwards.

Don’t just pour water into one spot. If you do the water will make a hole through your soil and your pot won’t be evenly saturated with nutrient rich water.

I like to use a watering can with a long neck for more control. Avoid getting water on the leaves, they are young and easily damaged.

That’s it for your first feeding. In about 24 hours you will see a lot more growth from your plant. This means the nutrients are working.

Water your plant as needed, when the first top inch of soil is completely dry. For a plant this young, it might not need another watering until a week from now. Its root system is still small and won’t be able to suck up all that water just yet. The temperature of your grow area will also affect how often you need to water your plants.

Every week after you will feed your plants a higher dosage of nutrients. As your plants get bigger, they get hungrier for more nutrients and water.

Thanks for reading this article. I hope it helped you a getting started feeding you plants their first dose of nutrients. If you have any questions or suggestions on how to improve this article, leave a comment below.

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