#Antonio Liverano

[laragosta]

Liverano by Milad Abedi.

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via AL.Photographers

[lesindispensablesparis]

Liverano Liverano - E-Shop

La première fois que l’on a écrit un article sur Antonio Liverano, c’était il y a 4 ans à la suite de l’excellent film de Gianlucca Migliarotti, O’mast. Dans un deuxième article, nous avions pu traduire une interview de Mark Cho menée avec Antonio Liverano. En 4 ans, Liverano Liverano a monté une école de coupe, un e-shop et une ligne Prêt-à-Porter. Cette dernière est réalisée dans leur propre atelier à Marina di Carrara, acquis en 2016. Marina di Carrara a une riche histoire de couture “semi-artisanale” qui remonte à la fin des années 1960. Par “semi-artisanale”, Liverano Liverano sous-entend qu’une partie du travail de montage des vêtements sont réalisés à la machine. C’est la combinaison du savoir-faire sartorial traditionnel italien qui implique une quantité importante de travail manuel avec une approche plus moderne de la production de vêtements.

Les colletions Prêt-à-Porter sont disponibles en ligne sur le site Liverano.com. Les vestes, costumes et manteaux sont principalement fabriqués dans l’atelier à Marina di Carrara. Liverano & Liverano propose également des pièces en maille, des accessoires (dont les fameuses écharpes multicolores célébrées dans O’mast) où encore des blousons en cuir. Tout est fabriqué en Italie. Quelques exemples ci-dessous qui ont attiré notre oeil, dont une ceinture en cuir de crocodile, un gilet en laine Casentino coloris Bleu Klein ou encore des souliers du bottier Japonais Clematis.

Toutes les photos sont issues du site liverano.com.

[kerloaz]

[heinfienbrot]

Antonio Liverano.

[sartorialeblog]

Style Inspiration - Antonio Liverano

[theitaliancut]

Antonio Liverano (Liverano & Liverano).

Credit: The Somchai

[thearmoury]

The Liverano Silhouette is soft and generous in the shoulders. The overall effect is almost a little antique - an anti-fashion cut that doesn’t feel too prissy or too uniform. It feels like Florence - an elegant old city that has never found cause to abandon tradition. Alex's russel plaid check came from Liverano's fabric archive. An assortment of swatches that travels with the Liverano team, representing Antonio's vast collection of vintage and dead-stock fabrics. These fabrics are available for commission exclusively during trunk shows. Our Liverano & Liverano trunk show is going on now. Appointments while limited, are available through Saturday 4/30. DM us for more information. (at The Armoury New York) https://www.instagram.com/p/Cc5nLzrL9w9/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[yoshimihasegawa]

“In England, it’s often said that the pattern is the most important component of a suit. Interestingly enough,Italians adhere to an entirely separate methodology. According to Antonio, cutting is not the crucial factor. In Inghilterra si è soliti dire che il modello è la parte più importante di un abito.Gli italiani,invece,seguono una metodologia completamente diversa.Secondo Antonio il taglio non è il momento cruciale. “Liverano & Liverano from my book Sartoria Italiana. 英国では「スーツの根幹を成す型紙が最も重要」という言葉がよく聞かれる。興味深いことに、イタリアの方法論はそれとは異なる。アントニオに言わせれば、最も重要なものはカッティングではない。リヴェラーノ＆リヴェラーノ「サルトリア・イタリアーナ」より。available at @skiraeditore @rizzolibooks @amazonjapan @lrjc26 @simoneubertinorosso @vitalebarberiscanonico1663 @liveranoandliverano @takahirockitalia @daihikita #vbcfabrics #sartoriaitalianabook #madeinitaly #bespoke #suits #tailoring #sumisura #mensstyle #menswear https://www.instagram.com/p/Cec4C-BrT1R/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[dansar04]

Diplomatic Ties part 487: Tie Your Tie.

Suit from Bladen (for Tweed Stockholm), Shirtonomy shirt, tie from Tie Your Tie, ps from Liverano & Liverano and shoes from Alden. Scent: Antonio Alessandria Gattopardo.

Also check out our website: Diplomatic Ties.

And if you are interested in music, check out: All Kinds of (Good) Music as well.

[menswearmusings]

The Armoury Makes Liverano Doc “I Colori di Antonio” Available on YouTube

In collaboration with filmmaker Gianluca Migliarotti (@kiddandy on Insta), the fine folks at The Armoury made a documentary about legendary Florentine tailor Antonio Liverano back in 2012, called I Colori di Antonio. They’ve posted it to YouTube, so you can watch it for free, and are hosting a Q&A today with the director at 11 a.m. EDT (11 p.m. Hong Kong time). They have a page about the documentary here.

I Colori came on the heels of another documentary Migliarotti had done about tailors in Naples called O’mast. That documentary is worth watching, as well. It gives an oral history of the tailoring tradition of Naples from the tailors themselves.

I think if I ever were to become a high-roller and could drop serious money on tailoring, Liverano is the first tailor I’d try. His house style is celebrated (and much-imitated—see my photo below) for good reason. Tailoring’s primary appeal, in my mind, is to flatter the wearer. Any tailored jacket from any tradition (structured and British or soft and Italian) that fits well and is proportioned well makes a man look better because the basic form is designed to do that. Personal expression comes in the form of putting together outfits, cloth choices, color preferences, etc. But Liverano’s style has a beauty to it that stands on its own; an artistic expression just in the garment itself, apart from how it sits on and makes a man look when worn. Ethan Newton described it well years ago when he still worked at The Armoury (he now runs Bryceland’s in Tokyo and Hong Kong):

The Liverano Silhouette

The jacket is soft in the shoulders, with a rear slanted shoulder seam and line that extends past the deltoid. It is generous, and perhaps a little more masculine than the very neat shoulder line seen in other regional Italian tailoring styles.

The dartless front is characteristically Florentine. It would be sackish and flat if left with a straight seam and no iron, but the single dart in the single front panel is angled, and the waist pressed into a gentle swell. The round sweep from lapel notch to open quarter adds to the slightly rural, countrified appearance. The jacket is left short, with the notch and breast pocket traditionally low.

The trousers are a higher rise, generally pleated and cuffed if in a suiting cloth, with a strong taper to the ankle. It makes the overall feel slightly top heavy, but not imbalanced – more a masculine heft to the torso.

The overall effect is almost a little antique – an anti-fashion cut that doesn’t feel too prissy or too uniform. It feels like Florence – an elegant old city that has never found cause to abandon tradition for the new.

  Mark Cho of The Armoury in a Liverano suit. Note the sweeping curve of the lapel from notch, downward through the buttoning point then curving out in the quarters at the bottom.

This is an Eidos suit in the “Ciro” suit designed by Antonio Ciongoli, which was a direct homage to the Liverano cut with its lapel shape. It differs in that it has a vertical front dart that runs from right below the chest all the way to the hem (which is a characteristically Neapolitan design choice).

Read more at Menswear Musings

[arnold-wkt]

Antonio #Liverano.

[takeitofftherack]

The maestro at work. Throwback to last years visit to @liverano_liverano . Beautiful shop and atelier. Very nice saying hi to Antonio and his amazing team. #liverano #liveranoeliverano #menswear #mensstyle #style #sartoria #sartorial #bespoke #firenze #antonioliverano @qemal_selimi #takeitofftherack #cutting (ved LIVERANO&LIVERANO)

[lesindispensablesparis]

I COLORI DI ANTONIO

The Armoury vient de mettre en ligne - gratuitement et pour une durée limitée, ne tardez pas trop - le film de de Gianluca Migliarotti, I COLORI DI ANTONIO. Un très beau documentaire dont avait déjà parlé ici Liverano Liverano et ici Une journée avec Antonio Liverano.

Bon film !

[kerloaz]

Doppiopetto.

[heinfienbrot]

Antonio Liverano.