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#2011 Blanc de Noirs Sparkling Pinot Noir
farehamwinecellar · 1 year
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The Grange White From Black 2018, Hampshire
The Grange White From Black is the third Hampshire sparkling wine released by The Grange. It is a “White from Black”, AKA a Blanc de Noirs, a white wine made from only red grapes. In this case, Pinot Meunier. 
Grange Estate Wines is an exciting new Hampshire sparkling wine project. Their vineyard, named Burge’s Field, is located at The Grange Estate in Itchen Stoke near Alresford, which is approximately 5 miles to the east of Winchester. The estate was bought by John Baring (7th Lord Ashburton) in 1965 and it remains owned by the Baring to today. In fact the estate had been in the Baring family ownership, purchased by the 1st Lord Ashburton,  some 200 years previously, and passed through various other owners before returning to Baring ownership. The wine part of the business is a coming together of John Baring’s four children and is run by managing partner Zam Baring. The Grange Estate is also an arable farm and hosts an opera and dance festival each year.
The Burge’s Field vineyard gently slopes southwards down towards the River Itchen, whose clear chalk streams are world famous for their fly fishing. The soils in the vineyard are composed of Cretaceous chalk dotted with hard silica flints, the same chalk soils that extend through Hampshire, the Sussex Downs and onward to Champagne. It is this chalky soil that is perfect for growing sparkling wine grapes and help impart a steely minerality to the wines. The 52,000 Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier vines were planted in 2011 and the vineyard surface covers 30 hectares. The first Grange Estate wine were released in 2018 and the first wines were orignally made by the team at Hattingley Valley. From the 2022 vintage all wines are made at The Grange’s brand new winery under the watchful eye of newly appointed head winemaker Harry Pickering
Unusually for The Grange, the White From Black is bottled at a vintage wine. If you cast your mind back to 2018, you’ll remember that it was an almost perfect summer. It was also a great wine vintage in the UK and yields were up so The Grange were able to produce a vintage wine alongside the non-vintage Classic and Pink. The quality of the Pinot Meunier wines were also excellent. This release is made from four different Pinot Meunier cuvées of which 40% went through malolactic fermentation (to soften any acidity) and just 5% had contact with some very gentle oak for texture. It has spent 36 months on the lees and 5 months on cork and was disgorged to 9 grammes of residual sugar resulting in a magnificent and luxurious balance.
The post The Grange White From Black 2018, Hampshire appeared first on Fareham Wine Cellar.
source https://www.farehamwinecellar.co.uk/product/the-grange-white-from-black/
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gwain6 · 8 years
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Recently I was back in Adelaide for Christmas and had the chance to visit a few wineries in the Adelaide Hills. The first winery we visited was the one I selected, Ashton Hills.
The Winery
“Ashton Hills is a three hectare, dry-grown vineyard that lies in the Piccadilly Valley sub region of the Adelaide Hills on a ridge just below the summit of Mount Lofty. The estate was founded by Stephen George in 1982 and since that time it has built a reputation as one of Australia’s finest proponents of Pinot Noir and cool climate whites.”
Ashton Hills was established by Stephen George in 1982. Stephen’s goal was to produce the best Pinot Noir in Australia. The first vineyard Stephen planted was in Piccadilly at an altitude of 570m that looks to the South towards the highest point in the Mount Loft Ranges, Mount Lofty (which is more of a hill than a mountain).
From a wine making principles perspective, Stephen George has always adhered to Burgundian principals, as James Halliday states “an organic process based on fact, not a glitzy PR campaign.”
He started with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir cuttings, experimenting with around 25 different Pinot Noir clones over about 30 years, settling on 5 clones that are used to produce their Estate, Piccadilly and Reserve Pinot Noirs. There are now around 3 hectares (approximately 7.5 acres) of vineyards that are cultivated by Ashton Hills producing 1500 cases annually.
Ashton Hills is the oldest Pinot Noir vineyard in the Adelaide Hills.
Winery Rating
The winery has a 5 Star rating from James Halliday, which means that the winery produces at least two wines rated by James of 95 or above for at least the previous 2 year, there are currently 282 or 10% of wineries in Australia that have 5 Stars. In the case of Ashton Hills, as it has consistently produced high quality wines, James has rates Ashton Hills as one of the exceptional wineries in Australia, one of only 102 or 3.6% of Australian Wineries.
The Cellar Door
Ashton Hills’ Cellar Door is a bit “retro”. It has the look and feel of an older winery, it is made from corrugated steel, looks like an old tin shed, but I am fairly certain it is only a few years old, I like it! The few from the shed is of the vineyard and Mount Lofty. Unfortunately (and fortunately) it was a cool, wet and overcast day, which was good for tasting, but not so great to enjoy the full Adelaide Hills experience.
What really makes it standout though was Jo, on the day we visited she was running the place. I was impressed by how Jo could seamlessly serve multiple groups of tasters who were at different stages in their tasting cycle without losing a beat. You received a brief on each wine, the vintage, wine making process and her thoughts on the wine, I just wanted to stay for more! May also have something to do with the great wines.
The Wine
In addition to Pinot Noir, Ashton Hills also produce and produce Chardonnay, Riesling, Sparkling Shiraz and three Sparkling Pinot Noirs.
My Picks
2014 Ashton Hills Reserve Pinot Noir
2009 Ashton Hills Clare Valley Sparkling Shiraz
2015 Ashton Hills Estate Pinot Noir
2011 Blanc de Noirs Sparkling Pinot Noir
The Sparklings
Blanc de Noirs Sparkling Pinot Noir
Vintage:                2011 Region:                 Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia Varietal:               Pinot Noir Alcohol:                13% Colour:                 Pale salmon Bead:                    Small persistent bubbles Aroma:                 Fragrant combo of strawberry, fig and a hint of oak aromas Palate:                  Rich, savoury, dry, refreshing Finish:                  Medium-long Price:                    AUD40
Winemaker’s Notes:
Grapes for the 2011 Blanc de Noirs were grown on our vineyard in the Piccadilly Valley – the coolest, wettest and most humid site in the Adelaide Hills. Such climatic condition produce plump, non-dessicated grapes which result in crisp, finely flavoured wines. Blanc de Noirs (white of black) describes a sparkling wine made from the white flesh of black fruit, in this case, Pinot Noir. Gentle bunch pressing of chilled grapes gave the wine its soft, long finish.
Vintage Notes:
The fruit was whole bunch-pressed, fermented in and aged in old barriques, followed by a few years on yeast lees, with a dosage of 5g/l.
In the Adelaide Hills, 2011 was the coolest and wettest vintage in recent history.
  Expert Ratings:
JancisRobinson.com, Richard Hemming MW – Jan 2017 – 16.5/20
Gourmet Traveller Wine Magazine – NOV 2016 – 96 points
HuonHooke.com, Huon Hooke – AUG 2016 – 96 points
James Halliday 2017 Australian Wine Companion – AUG 2016 – 91 Points
Piccadilly Valley Brut Sauvage Sparkling Pinot Noir
Vintage:                2011 Region:                 Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia Varietal:                Pinot Noir (Zero dosage) Alcohol:                13% Colour:                 Pale salmon Bead:                    Small persistent bubbles Aroma:                 Combination of raspberry and cherry aromas Palate:                  Austere, savoury, refreshing Finish:                   Medium-long Price:                    AUD35
Winemaker’s Notes:
Most sparkling wines contain at least a little sugar to balance their typically high acidity. In rare years, however, a wine’s relative richness and acidity may mean that no “dosage” or sugar addition is required. In Europe this style of wine is traditionally called Brut Sauvage – brut meaning “dry” and sauvage “wild” or “natural”.
In Australia we might say Brut Sauvage simply means “as it comes” and that the sparkling wine is therefore bone dry.
This makes it a great aperitif.
Vintage Notes:
2011 marks the first vintage of this ‘Sauvage’ cuvée, made from the same base wine as the 2011 Salmon Blanc de Noirs, but importantly, disgorged and corked without any dosage. According to Stephen George 2011 was the first vintage where the wine had sufficient fruit sweetness to carry of this style, and bottled a small portion of the wine sans sugar to see how it would age. The sweetness of the fruit means that there was need to add sugar to balance their typically high acidity.
  In the Adelaide Hills, 2011 was the coolest and wettest vintage in recent history.
Expert Ratings:
JancisRobinson.com, Richard Hemming MW – Jan 2017 – 17 / 20
James Halliday 2017 Australian Wine Companion – AUG 2016 – 92 Points
Piccadilly Valley Salmon Brut Sparkling
Vintage:                2011 Region:                 Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia Varietal:               Pinot Noir Alcohol:                13% Colour:                 Light pink Bead:                    Small persistent bubbles Aroma:                 Mixture of strawberry, cherry, nutty with maybe a hint of toffee aromas Palate:                  Full, rich with a pleasant sweet finish Finish:                  Long Price:                    AUD35
Winemaker Notes:
Grapes for the 2011 Salmon Brut were grown in the Piccadilly Valley – the coolest, wettest and most humid site in the Adelaide Hills.
Such climatic conditions produce plump, non-dessicated grapes which result in crisp, finely flavoured wines.
Gentle bunch pressing of chilled grapes gave the wine its soft, long finish. Strawberry and cherry aromas are from the Pinot Noir grape and the biscuity bouquet and flavour are due to extended time on yeast lees. Addition of Pinot Noir fermented on its dark skins gives the attractive salmon hue and contributes to richness and flavour. Serve chilled.
Vintage Notes:
The fruit was whole bunch-pressed, fermented (No malolactic) and aged in old barriques, followed by a few years on yeast lees, with a dosage of 8g/l. The colour is from the addition of a little table Pinot Noir.
In the Adelaide Hills, 2011 was the coolest and wettest vintage in recent history.
Expert Ratings:
JancisRobinson.com, Richard Hemming MW – Jan 2017 – 16.5 / 20
Gourmet Traveller Wine Magazine – NOV 2016 – 95 Points
HuonHooke.com, Huon Hooke – AUG 2016 – 95 Points
James Halliday 2017 Australian Wine Companion – MAR 2016 – 89 Points
Ashton Hills Clare Valley Sparkling Shiraz
Vintage:                2009 Region:                 Clare Valley, South Australia, Australia Varietal:                Shiraz Alcohol:                13% Colour:                 Bright deep crimson Bead:                    Fine, persistent Aroma:                 Fragrant mix of cherry, spice and mint aromas Palate:                  Medium-bodied, lush, lively, balanced, fun Tannin:                 Savoury Finish:                   Long Price:                    AUD70
Winemaker’s Notes:
Made from the grapes of dry grown, low yielding vines, half of which were planted in 1919 of the Wendouree Vineyard in the Clare Valley. Following ageing in old oak for four years the base wine was re-fermented in this bottle. On disgorging, a liqueur of rich fortified Shiraz was added to balance the wine’s considerable tannin. This tannin makes the wine particularly good with food. Drink now or cellar for further complexity.
Open-fermented, hand-plunged, and held for four years in an aged 2250-litre cask.
Expert Ratings:
JancisRobinson.com, Richard Hemming MW – Jan 2017 – 17 / 20
HuonHooke.com, Huon Hooke – NOV 2016 – 97 Points
Australian Gourmet Traveller Wine, Tyson Stelzer – NOV 2016 – 96 Points
Tyson Stelzer Sparkling Guide 2016 – The Sparkling Red of the Year
The Whites
Ashton Hills Estate Riesling
Vintage:                2016 Region:                 Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia Varietal:               Riesling Alcohol:                12.5% Colour:                 Bright Straw Green Aroma:                 Mixture of lime, lemon and mineral aromas Palate:                  Refreshing, slight residual sweetness, enjoyable Finish:                  Medium Price:                    AUD30
Winemaker Notes:
The 2016 growing season in the Adelaide Hills saw moderate winter rains followed by a mild spring, which led to good flowering and fruit set. Our 2016 Riesling demonstrates a classic European style with a fresh natural acidity. It has a fine texture, with an intensity of flavour and lingering palate that defies its delicate nature. The wine will drink well upon release and reward careful cellaring for 10+ years.
Only 220 dozen made, Ashton Hills has planted a meagre 1,200 Riesling vines, covering just 0.34-hectares of soil.
Expert Ratings (For the 2015 Release)
No reviews for the 2016 vintage as yet, but the 2015 vintage received good ratings
James Halliday, Australian Wine Companion 2017 Edition – 96 Points
Tyson Stelzer, Wine Business Monthly – 94 Points
The Reds
Ashton Hills Estate Pinot Noir
Vintage:                2015 Region:                 Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia Varietal:                Pinot Noir Alcohol:                14% Colour:                 Deep crimson Aroma:                 Fragrant combination of plum, cherry, spice and earthy aromas Palate:                  Rich, full, concentrated, WoW Tannin:                 Savoury Finish:                   Long Price:                    AUD45
Winemaker Notes:
The 2015 growing season in the Adelaide Hills delivered excellent ripening conditions, with warm days resulting in great flavour development and cool nights ensuring good retention of acid.
Starting in the first week of March, this was our earliest vintage on record and despite modest yields, the consistency in temperature and fruit ripening resulted in a vintage of outstanding quality.
This Estate Pinot Noir was matured predominantly in old French oak and of our five preferred Estate clones, the two Martini clones contributed to almost half of the blend with the remainder from D5Vl2, MV6 and 777.
Winemaker Stephen George has said, “The consistency in temperature and fruit ripening has resulted in a vintage of outstanding quality”.
Expert Ratings:
JancisRobinson.com, Richard Hemming MW – Jan 2017 – 18 / 20
HuonHooke.com, Huon Hooke – Nov 2016 – 95 Points
Ashton Hills Piccadilly Valley Pinot Noir
Vintage:                2015 Region:                 Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia Varietal:                Pinot Noir Alcohol:                14% Colour:                 Bright crimson Aroma:                 Complex mixture of raspberry, cherry, spice and earthy aromas Palate:                  Medium-bodied, balanced, Tannin:                Soft Finish:                  Long Price:                    AUD30
Winemaker Notes:
A blend of fruit drawn from our estate and Jim Grigg’s Cemetery Block taken in the earliest harvest on record for the Piccadilly Valley. Perfect ripening conditions provided warm days for flavour development and cool nights ensured good acid retention. Matured in seasoned French barriques, the wine displays a richness of flavour and silky texture leading to a long, persistent finish.
Expert Ratings:
JancisRobinson.com, Richard Hemming MW – Jan 2017 – 17.5 / 20
HuonHooke.com, Huon Hooke – Nov 2016 – 89 Points
Ashton Hills Reserve Pinot Noir
Vintage:                2014 Region:                 Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia Varietal:               Pinot Noir Alcohol:                14% Colour:                 Bright crimson Aroma:                 Perfumed combination of cherry, plum, spice and earthy aromas Palate:                  Medium / full-bodied, rich, lush, vibrant, double WoW Tannin:                Fine / Silky Finish:                  Long Price:                    AUD70
Winemaker’s Note:
The 2015 growing season in the Adelaide Hills delivered excellent ripening conditions, with warm days resulting in great flavour development and cool nights ensuring good retention of acid. Starting in the first week of March, this was our earliest vintage on record and despite modest yields, the consistency in temperature and fruit ripening resulted in a vintage of outstanding quality.
Half of the Reserve Pinot Noir came from our original plantings which are now 33 years old. Three of our five preferred Estate clones contributed to this wine – D5V12 (55%), Martini (27%) and 777 (18%) – while a third of the wine was matured in new French Oak.
Drink now or cellar for around 10 years for significant further complexity.
Expert Ratings:
HuonHooke.com, Huon Hooke – NOV 2016 – 97 Points
Australian Gourmet Traveller Wine, Tyson Stelzer – NOV 2016 – 94 Points
James Halliday 2017 Australian Wine Companion – AUG 2016 – 97 Points
Jamessuckling.com, Nick Stock – OCT 2015 – 94 Points
Ashton Hills
I am probably biased because Ashton Hills is one of the wineries that opened my mind to Pinot Noir, but Ashton Hills is definitely a winery to add to your tasting list, especially the Reserve Pinot Noir. It is also a great place to visit, hope you have as great an experience as I did!
Cheers!
  Adelaide Hills – Ashton Hills Recently I was back in Adelaide for Christmas and had the chance to visit a few wineries in the Adelaide Hills.
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hernehillandy · 6 years
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Hampshire's sparkling future
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IT’S not often that you see a regionally themed English wine tasting: OK, so yesterday’s Vineyards of Hampshire was the first such gathering I’ve attended. It’s too early to try to identify a distinctively Hampshire style or even terroir: there were a range of styles on show, and I’d guess that even the most passionate Hampshire partisan would have trouble pinpointing what’s different in this terroir versus that elsewhere on the South Downs slope in, say, Sussex.
Yet this tasting’s focus was still useful, even if only for showing the kind of quality that a group of English growers in a relatively small geographical area are now achieving.  And the majority of the producers showing are relative newcomers, with a number founded in the past decade. At this rate (and buoyed by vintages as fine as last year’s) English sparkling wine has a bright future - albeit it in small quantities.
Black Chalk Classic 2015 - this is 49 per cent Chardonnay, 34 per cent pinot meunier, the balance pinot noir. Crisp, very elegant, long – genuinely impressive, especially since at present all of their grapes are bought in. Their Wild Rose 2015 is beautifully poised too.
Exton Park Blanc de Blancs 2011 - a lovely sparkler: yeasty brioche notes on nose and palate; depth, weight and elegance.
Hambledon Première Cuvée NV - based mainly on the fine 2013 vintage, this 73 per cent chardonnay blend has had 46 months on its lees. Fresh and very clean but with depth too: well balanced.
Hattingley Valley Blanc de Blancs 2013 - crisp, focussed, balanced. Their Chardonnay-dominated Classic Reserve NV is impressive too.
Jenkyn Place Blanc de Noirs 2010 - a 50/50 blend of pinot noir/pinot meunier: fresh, bright acidity, balanced, bottle age just starting to show through nicely.
14 February 2019
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wineloverstours · 5 years
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Portugal Diaries Day 3: Bairrada and Beyond
Today we left rainy Porto and head to hopefully sunny Alentejo. On our way to Evora, we stopped for a lunch visit at Luis Pato Winery.
Luis is a legend in his own time, often called Mr. Baga, the most dominant grape variety in the area.
Vin with Luis Pato
Bairrada is made up of small plots, either sandy or chalky soils, and either North or South exposure. Each terroir produces a characteristic profile. Luis was the first in Portugal to recognize the singularity of plots by designating single vineyard labels.
We learned that sandy soil is great for white wines. Bairrada is 12 miles from the ocean and is impacted by winds and humidity, with foggy mornings, hot days and cool nights.
His wines are characterized by their high acidity and minerality. There are 4 white grape varieties:Bical (grafted and ungrafted), Maria Gomez, Cercial and the hybrid Sercialinho.
40% of their production is red, from Baga and Touriga Nacional.
There was a big family fight when Luis told his father he was going to study chemical engineering instead of farming but he came back to the winery and found that his education taught him how to improve the winery. For instance he practices organic farming and does not use sulfites because he oxidizes his wines during production and they can last decades.
Pato means duck and there are ducks on the winery and the 3 ducks on the label symbolize his 3 daughters. Besides, the ducks eat the bad insects.
Luis has 50 hectares of vineyards and produces 300,000 bottles annually from his own grapes only.
He produces 3 levels of wine: the entry level which have the names of the grapes on the label; next level is vinhas velhas and the highest level are his single vineyard wines.
He took over the winery in the 1980s and has earned the title of Mr. Baga and also the “rebel” because he bucked the trend to plant only French varietals and instead focused on the little known local varieties. Time has proven him correct.
He has learned to adapt the local grapes to the most suitable terroir. For instance his single vineyard Quinta do Ribeirinho is ungrafted Baga grown on sandy soil. His wine “8” is Baga grown on grafted vines in chalky soil.
For aging, Luis uses large 500 liter barrels called pipes which allow for evolution without acquiring a wood profile. They are suitable for his style of terroir driven wines.
Bairrada is also known for sparkling wines and the winery uses both the traditional and ancestral methods of sparkling wine production (single fermentation in the bottle).
His whites are known for their longevity and in fact the winery has just started selling the 1991 vintage.
As for the Baga, Luis claims that young Baga reminds him of Nebbiolo, 20/30 year old reminds him of Sangiovese and 35/40 year old Baga reminds him of Pinot Noir.
When asked how he makes a white sparkler and a red from the same harvest from the Baga, he said he developed the technique of 2 harvests: 1st harvest in August when the grapes are green is destined for the sparkling wines and the 2nd in September is for the reds.
roasted suckling pig
Our appetizers of various local specialities such as empanadas of cod and meat and calamari were accompanied by these wines: Maria Gomes Sparkling NV, on sandy soil, cider aroma; Vinha Pan Baga Rosé Informal 2014, aroma of cider/apples, orange hue, 3 years on lees; Vinha Pan Baga 2015, no sulfites, uses hyper oxigination from beginning so sulfites are not needed; a blanc de noir, yeast, a big difference between the Baga rosé and this wine. Luis joined us for lunch, and what a lunch it was! Carrot soup, roast suckling pig and 2 desserts: the local version of crème brulé and tapioca. The wines accompanying lunch were stupendous: Bical 2017 grown in chalky soil, 6 months in chestnut barrels; Vinha Pan 2016, Baga vinified as red from the 2nd harvest; Cercial 2017 Parcela Candida (not to be confused with Madeira’s Sercial) bright, soft, rich wine, less acidity; Cercial 2015 Parcela Candida, what a difference 2 years of aging does: deep yellow color, reminiscent of an aged Riesling O Pan do João 2017 Baga, hyper oxigenated, Luis calls it “Early Harvest” wine, .8% RS AM 2011 (Abafado Molecular) fermenting must stopped with high residual sugar, wine was frozen and juice extracted from the water, from Cercial and Sercialinho.
Luis Pato was a rebel and you should enjoy the fruits of his rebellion.
We then checked into our 5 star hotel in Evora next to the 11th century aqueduct. Evora is one of the most charming towns you’ll ever see. It’s a walled city with a warren of tiny narrow streets. It’s also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
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11th century aqueduct Evora
Evora
Portugal Diaries Day 3: Bairrada and Beyond Portugal Diaries Day 3: Bairrada and Beyond Today we left rainy Porto and head to hopefully sunny Alentejo.
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twelvebyseventyfive · 6 years
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The wines of Nyetimber, England
Nyetimber are probably the most famous winery in the UK, and along with a good number of other English sparkling wine producers, they were present at the ProWein fair in Dusseldorf this week. I popped along to try through their range, including a first look – for me – at the new prestige 1086 cuvées.
Nyetimber Classic Cuvée NV The 2014 base, with 2008, 2009, 2011, 2013. 10.5 g/l dosage. This has lovely toast and spice notes with pear and apple, as well as a citrus core. Generous and harmonious with lovely brisk acidity giving balance to the richer elements. 92/100
Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs 2013 This was the first wine released in 1996 with the 1992 vintage. Taut and focused with some generosity, this has harmonious citrus fruit with lovely tension and brightness. Has some subtle toast and some sweet pear and white peach. Some creaminess too. 93/100
Nyetimber Tillington Single Vineyard 2013 This was England’s first specific single vineyard bottling when it was released. The Tillington vineyard is 13 hectares in size, but just 5 of these are used for this wine, and it’s the third release. Three years on the lees, 9.7 g/l dosage. Lean, taut, precise and very elegant with some cherry and plum notes, a nice sappy green hint, and lovely well integrated acidity. The Pinot Noir (three quarters of the blend) really shines through with its fresh cherry notes. Fine and fresh with a lovely expanding finish. 94/100
Nyetimber 1086 2009 This is a prestige cuvee named after the Doomsday book reference to the Nyetimber estate. Nine years on the lees and disgorged September 2018. This is the expression of the entirety of the vintage, and it’s a blend of all three grapes. Complex and expressive with some toast, some herbs, and fine citrus, pear and apple fruit. There’s a richness here, with a luxurious, complex mouthfeel and a long, toast-laced finish. But despite the richness, there’s some precision too. It’s still quite linear, and there’s a bit of structure, too. Very fine. 94/100
Nyetimber 1086 Rosé 2010 25% Chardonnay, 75% Pinot Noir, dosage 8g/l, 18% red Pinot Noir in the blend. Pink/orange colour, with attractive cherry, herb and spice notes. Has some fennel/anise notes, and a touch of Turkish delight. Nice savoury edge with precision and focus. This has a long, dry finish that just keeps on going, and lovely layered spiciness, as well as faint sappy notes. Serious stuff that’s possibly the best English sparkling wine I have tried. 95/100
Nyetimber Rosé NV Based on 2014 vintage with some 2013. Fresh, detailed and sappy with expressive cherry and plum notes and a really appealing green sappiness. Lovely linear palate with expressive fruit, keen acidity and a hint of sweetness balancing things out. Very fine. 93/100
Nyetimber Demi-Sec NV Chardonnay, with 38 g/l dosage. Lovely fruit here: generous yet fresh with citrus, pear and table grape. Nice precision and detail, lying under the sweet fruit. Lovely balance here with briskness and lovely sweetness that integrates very well. Refreshing, fruity and quite delicious. 92/100
Find these wines with wine-searcher.com
from Jamie Goode's wine blog http://www.wineanorak.com:/wineblog/england/the-wines-of-nyetimber-england For Fine Wine Investment opportunities check out Twelve by Seventy Five: http://www.twelve-by-seventy-five.com/
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worldfootprints · 6 years
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Most people think of Santa Fe when visiting New Mexico, but Albuquerque, where Native culture combines with New Mexican and Mexican influences throughout this quirky city, is a fascinating place to visit.
You don’t need to go far to experience the native culture since the state is home to 19 Pueblo tribes, two Apache tribes, and large portions of the Navajo Nation. Albuquerque’s unique culture is unlike any city I have visited. It’s not super cosmopolitan but is evolving in part because the hit TV shows “Breaking Bad” and “Better Call Saul” have increased tourism. Also, more than $300 million in public and private investments is reshaping the city’s skyline.. Albuquerque left me viewing my own City of Angels in a new light, with an appreciation of small-town charm and local heritage.
Although tourists still flock to Albuquerque for tours linked to “Breaking Bad,” and the annual international hot air balloon fiesta in the fall, there is more to this city than is apparent at first glance. Don’t miss these unique excursions on your next trip to the “Land of Enchantment.”
Tasty blue corn onion rings. Photo: Melissa Curtin
Indian Pueblo Cultural Center
The Indian Pueblo Cultural Center offers visitors the opportunity to make traditional Native American fry bread and learn about the history, traditions, and art of the 19 Indian Pueblos in New Mexico. The shop was one of the best I visited for handcrafted Native American jewelry made from silver, turquoise, natural shell, and gemstones. The restaurant inside called the Pueblo Harvest Café serves samples of food from all 19 New Mexico pueblos with a unique pre- contact menu. Sample pre-contact foods and post-contact seasonal selections include: blue corn onion rings, fried Kool-Aid pickles, bison enchilada, rabbit, braised elk on corn polenta, green chili stew, black bean patty burger, and pan seared New Mexican “tribal trout.”
National Hispanic Cultural Center
Don’t miss the National Hispanic Cultural Center’s impressive modern art collection with a thought-provoking exhibit on race, gender, immigrants, and equality called Because It’s Time, Unraveling Race and Place in New Mexico that runs thru early 2019. The collection rivals museum exhibits in LA and NYC with its provocative ideas artistically expressed in bold, unique ways. The Center’s expansive campus celebrates Hispanic and Latin American culture and includes several performance venues as well as houses a 4,000 square foot bold colorful concave fresco painting inside a tower. The largest fresco in North America depicts thousands of years of Hispanic history showing diverse cultural connections between people and places from the Iberian Peninsula to the Americas. Take time out to sit and gaze in awe at this impressive creation by Frederico Vigil, completed in 2009.
National Hispanic Cultural Center. Photo: Melissa Curtin
Fresco inside the National Hispanic Cultural Center. Photo: Melissa Curtin
Sparkling Wine, Sweet Wine
Photo: Melissa Curtin
As a Californian, I couldn’t imagine the landscape in New Mexico could hold and grow vines, so when visited Gruet Winery, I was pleasantly shocked by the quality of the bubbly at this adorable wine tasting room where in 1984 French Gilbert Gruet brought his roots from his champagne house in Bethon, France. Pop in for exceptional Pinot Noir and Chardonnay-based sparkling dry wines. Don’t miss the Sauvage Vintage 2011 or Blanc de Blancs Vintage 2012. Taste 5 wines for $13. The family owned winery has found a way to take advantage of bone-dry soils, high elevations, and the dramatic day to night temperatures. Sheehan Winery is another award-winning New Mexico wine made in small batches and quite sweet, which is the way the local New Mexicans prefer it. Perhaps the smallest winery in the world, the owner Sean Sheehan hosts complimentary tastings by appointment in his very own backyard where it is made, and the vineyard takes part in wine events throughout New Mexico a few times a month. Sheehan is gurgling over with passion for his wines and will be sure to entertain you over one of his artistic bottles.
Perfume Workshops with Dryland Wilds
In Albuquerque’s Sawmill District is Spur Line Supply Co, a new, hip, shopping mecca filled with local brands and burgeoning New Mexico entrepreneurs. Inside Spur Line Supply Co, botanical perfumery workshops are offered by Dryland Wilds where you can learn about foraging, and the structure and history of perfume while experimenting with numerous fragrance families to concoct a potion you love. My nose was drawn to jasmine, ylang-ylang, ruby red grapefruit, Moroccan rose, and orange after experimenting with trays of scents based on various categories. Dryland Wilds also takes groups out to New Mexico’s high desert to learn about the native, useful, and edible plants. The women owners use old school perfuming equipment and sell their own botanical line made from wild native plants that they say are “hated or resilient” since popular plants for perfume have become so trendy they have been almost obliterated.
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ARTECHOUSE
Newly opened in an Albuquerque warehouse, this interactive light immersion experience called XYZT combines ten digital landscapes for all ages to explore. The immersive sensory encounter lets you feel like a kid as you move your body to influence and play with the light sources on the walls, floor, and more. Art, science, and technology mesh in the newly opened digital art gallery.
Photo: Melissa Curtin
Quirky Albuquerque, Five Things To Experience in the Land of Enchantment Most people think of Santa Fe when visiting New Mexico, but Albuquerque, where Native culture combines with New Mexican and Mexican influences throughout this quirky city, is a fascinating place to visit.
0 notes
jackiedluke · 7 years
Text
Chile’s Finest, Via San Francisco (Wines of Chile Awards 2017 Winners)
[ Editor’s note: Yes, I realize that tomorrow is Thanksgiving in the USA. No, I don’t feel compelled to write about wine pairings for it, because that topic has been covered, and covered, and covered, and covered, and covered already. If you’re really jonesing for Turkey Day wine help, see previous coverage of that here on 1WD, all of which is still relevant. ]
Every once in a while, I get asked to do really cool things, like judge wine competitions alongside bright, interesting, qualified people who, for reasons that I still don’t fully understand, consider me a peer.
Evan Goldstein, MS, surveys the room during the AWoCA 2017 judging
Such was the case a couple of months ago, when my friend Evan Goldstein (and his Full Circle Wine Solutions biz) asked if I’d be interested in judging the 2017 incarnation of the Anual Wines of Chile Awards, held this hear in his native San Francisco. I’ve worked with Evan and FCWS a few times before, who are top-notch, and we know that Evan knows his shiz when it comes to South American wines in general, so of course I said Hellz Yeah to that.
The winners of the 2017 AWoCA (now in its 14th incarnation) were recently announced at an event in Washington DC, and so I am now officially able to share highlights of the results with you.
What I found most exciting during the unfolding of the AWoCA competition, even more so than the high quality of Chile’s vinous wares in general, was how well Chile’s much-touted diversity was on full, 4KHD-tuned-to-vibrant-color-settings display in the wines that were entered…
First, here are the top-scorers in what many would now consider the usual suspects categories when it comes to Chilean wine:
Best Sauvignon Blanc: Viña Haras de Pirque, Albaclara Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Best Chardonnay: Luis Felipe Edwards, Marea Valle de Leyda Chardonnay 2016
Best Pinot Noir: San Pedro, 1865 Selected Vineyard Pinot Noir 2016
Best Cabernet Sauvignon under $20: Viña Requingua, Puerto Viejo Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Tough day at the office…
Next, a taste of Chile’s more expensive red side of things, which, yeah, technically has been going on for many years, but I think is just recently being accepted into the general social consciousness as being ok, like the way that we all just decided that The Rock was a funny actor:
Best Cabernet Sauvignon $20-$50: Viña Maipo, Protegido Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Best Cabernet Sauvignon over $50; Best in Show: SANTA EMA, Catalina 2014
Best Carménère $25 and over: San José de Apalta, Carménère Blue Label 2015
My view from Luis Felipe Edwards, back in 2016
Finally, here are the sides of Chilean that you probably were not expecting. For me, they happen to be the most exciting; not just because I am, admittedly, a geek freak for Cab Franc, but also because these wines are stellar examples of why Chile really is that diverse when it comes to wine. Not just that, but one of the wines helps to bolster my claim that Carignan is the best fine red wine grape being grown in Chile at the moment:
Best Other White: Viña Casas del Bosque, Gran Reserva Late Harvest Riesling 2015  (Right? Right?!?? I’ve had my fair share of underwhelming Chilean Rieslings, and this is definitely not one of those).
Best Sparkling: Viña Undurraga, Undurraga Rosé Royal N/V (Admit it, you didn’t expect bubbles to show up here… Further proof, as if we needed it, that the sea-breeze-infused Leyda Valley is one of Chile’s most dynamic areas).
Best Syrah; Best in Show: Viña Casas Del Bosque, Gran Reserva Syrah 2015 (These guys have been doing some interesting things with Syrah for a long time, actually).
Best Carignan/Secano: Luis Felipe Edwards, LFE100 CIEN Carignan 2012
Best Other Red: Viña Valdivieso, Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2013
Best Red Blend: Viña Cousiño Macul, Lota 2011
Obligatory trolley car ride
Cheers!
Grab The 1WineDude.com Tasting Guide and start getting more out of every glass of wine today!
Shop Wine Products at Amazon.com
Copyright © 2016. Originally at Chile’s Finest, Via San Francisco (Wines of Chile Awards 2017 Winners) from 1WineDude.com – for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers! Source: http://www.1winedude.com/chiles-finest-via-san-francisco-wines-of-chile-awards-2017-winners/
source https://meself84.wordpress.com/2017/11/22/chiles-finest-via-san-francisco-wines-of-chile-awards-2017-winners/ from Sommelier Courses http://sommeliercourses.blogspot.com/2017/11/chiles-finest-via-san-francisco-wines.html
0 notes
johnboothus · 4 years
Text
12 Things You Should Know About Schramsberg Vineyards
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Nestled in Calistoga, Calif., Schramsberg Vineyards is known primarily for its sparkling wines. The brand, founded by Jacob Schram in the 1800s, has undergone many changes over time. Since 1965, it has been owned by the Davies family, which has made the brand and its property what it is today.
With four different vineyards and over 30 varieties of wine, Schramsberg is a force in the Napa Valley wine world. But there’s still plenty you don’t know about the bubbly brand. Read on for 12 facts you should know about Schramsberg.
Schramsberg is one of Napa’s most historic wineries.
Schramsberg has been around since 1862, and was declared a historical monument by the California Historical Society in 1957. In 1965, after the winery was purchased by the Davies family, Schramsberg began making sparkling wine and was the first winery to use Chardonnay commercially in American sparkling wine. The brand continues to be one of the most well-known sparkling wine producers in the Napa Valley.
Schramsberg is all about preservation.
When owners Jack and Jamie Davies purchased the 200-acre Schramsberg property, they chose to preserve what was already on the property, rather than tear it down. The husband-and-wife duo restored the house that had been built by Jacob Schram, the brand’s first owner, in the 1800s — and kept 155 acres of forested land intact, using the remaining 43 for winemaking.
Beyond the property, Jack Davies continued to support environmentalism in the Napa Valley, serving as chairman of a committee that supported the creation of the Napa Valley Agricultural Preserve in 1967. Schramsberg was also one of the first wineries to receive the Napa Green certification, a certification awarded to wineries using sustainable wine-growing practices.
Schramsberg makes more than just sparkling wine.
Though Schramsberg is best known for its sparkling wines, the brand was founded on still wines. However, when the Davies’ first purchased the winery, they only produced sparkling varieties. In 2000, Hugh Davies, son of Jack and Jamie, took over as head winemaker, later becoming CEO and president of the company. Under Hugh’s helm, the brand began producing still wines in 2011. The brand now produces site-specific Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons, as well as Pinot Noirs from the Napa-Carneros, Sonoma Coast, and Anderson Valley regions. The brand sources its Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon from grape growers across the state of California.
Schramsberg rosé can save the world.
In 2003, the Davies family established the Jack L. Davies Fund, which supports research and education for the preservation of agricultural lands in Napa County. A portion of the proceeds for the brand’s Querencia Rosé goes toward this fund.
Schramsberg feels at home at the White House.
In 1972, Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs 1969 was the wine served at the state dinner in Beijing for President Nixon’s “Toast to Peace” with China’s premier, Zhou Enlai. The brand’s sparkling wines have been served at official state functions by every U.S. presidential administration since then.
There is a Schramsberg bottle for every occasion.
Schramsberg offers a large selection of bottles at a variety of price points. Looking to splurge? An ultra-magnum bottle of Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs goes for a cool $1,400. The brand’s standard-sized bottles range from $29 to $175.
The Schramsberg umbrella contains multiple brands, including Schramsberg, Mirabelle, J. Schram, J. Davies, and Davies Vineyards.
Schramsberg ages and stores its wines in historic caves.
These caves were built over four periods. The first set was built by hand and completed in 1870 by the first owner, Jacob Schram, with the help of Chinese laborers. The second portion was completed in 1888, was also dug by hand, and is located by the winery’s visitor’s center. In 1980 and 1990, the caves were expanded, this time using modern cave-digging equipment. Currently, Schramsberg Vineyards has approximately 34,000 square feet of underground cave storage on its property.
Schramsberg bottles range in size and price.
The brand sells its bottles in six sizes. If you’re looking to have a glass or two, it the sells half bottles of its Blanc de Blancs. It also sells traditional 750-milliliter bottles, as well as four large format sizes: 1.5-liter, 3-liter, 9-liter, and even 12-liter bottles (over 26 pounds!).
You can camp with Schramsberg.
Schramsberg holds three-day sparkling wine excursions at its Napa Valley winery, which it refers to as “Camp Schramsberg,” in the fall and spring. The experience entails hands-on education about how sparkling wine is made. Campers prune vines, blend wines, create sparkling wine menus, and, of course, drink lots of Schramsberg sparkling wine. The next session will be held on March 14-16, but if you want to attend, you might be too late, as there’s currently a waitlist for the program.
Schramsberg uses a rare grape variety.
Schramsberg primarily uses Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in its sparkling wines. However, the brand also uses a third grape variety in one of its offerings, the Crémant Demi-sec, an off-dry sparkling wine. For this wine, Schramsberg uses Flora, an obscure cross between Gewürztraminer and Semillon. Schramsberg is the only major U.S. producer that works with the grape.
You can personalize your bottle of Schramsberg.
Looking to pop some bubbly with a little extra pizazz? Schramsberg will let you etch a personal note and design into its 2017 Blanc de Blancs, 2011 J. Schram, and 2011 Reserve. And if you’re in the “bigger-is-better” camp, you can even personalize Schramsberg’s magnum bottles for good measure.
Schramsberg’s brand merchandise is … unique.
On Schramsberg’s website, bubbly lovers can purchase branded sabers, which are made from stainless steel and sold for $145. A variety of quirky, considerably less intimidating items include Schramsberg scented candles, license plate frames, and garden stakes donning a wine-drinking frog, a nod to the statue located in the winery’s frog pond.
The article 12 Things You Should Know About Schramsberg Vineyards appeared first on VinePair.
Via https://vinepair.com/articles/schramsberg-wine-guide/
source https://vinology1.weebly.com/blog/12-things-you-should-know-about-schramsberg-vineyards
0 notes
sommeliercourses · 7 years
Text
Chile’s Finest, Via San Francisco (Wines of Chile Awards 2017 Winners)
[ Editor’s note: Yes, I realize that tomorrow is Thanksgiving in the USA. No, I don’t feel compelled to write about wine pairings for it, because that topic has been covered, and covered, and covered, and covered, and covered already. If you’re really jonesing for Turkey Day wine help, see previous coverage of that here on 1WD, all of which is still relevant. ]
Every once in a while, I get asked to do really cool things, like judge wine competitions alongside bright, interesting, qualified people who, for reasons that I still don’t fully understand, consider me a peer.
Evan Goldstein, MS, surveys the room during the AWoCA 2017 judging
Such was the case a couple of months ago, when my friend Evan Goldstein (and his Full Circle Wine Solutions biz) asked if I’d be interested in judging the 2017 incarnation of the Anual Wines of Chile Awards, held this hear in his native San Francisco. I’ve worked with Evan and FCWS a few times before, who are top-notch, and we know that Evan knows his shiz when it comes to South American wines in general, so of course I said Hellz Yeah to that.
The winners of the 2017 AWoCA (now in its 14th incarnation) were recently announced at an event in Washington DC, and so I am now officially able to share highlights of the results with you.
What I found most exciting during the unfolding of the AWoCA competition, even more so than the high quality of Chile’s vinous wares in general, was how well Chile’s much-touted diversity was on full, 4KHD-tuned-to-vibrant-color-settings display in the wines that were entered…
First, here are the top-scorers in what many would now consider the usual suspects categories when it comes to Chilean wine:
Best Sauvignon Blanc: Viña Haras de Pirque, Albaclara Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Best Chardonnay: Luis Felipe Edwards, Marea Valle de Leyda Chardonnay 2016
Best Pinot Noir: San Pedro, 1865 Selected Vineyard Pinot Noir 2016
Best Cabernet Sauvignon under $20: Viña Requingua, Puerto Viejo Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Tough day at the office…
Next, a taste of Chile’s more expensive red side of things, which, yeah, technically has been going on for many years, but I think is just recently being accepted into the general social consciousness as being ok, like the way that we all just decided that The Rock was a funny actor:
Best Cabernet Sauvignon $20-$50: Viña Maipo, Protegido Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Best Cabernet Sauvignon over $50; Best in Show: SANTA EMA, Catalina 2014
Best Carménère $25 and over: San José de Apalta, Carménère Blue Label 2015
My view from Luis Felipe Edwards, back in 2016
Finally, here are the sides of Chilean that you probably were not expecting. For me, they happen to be the most exciting; not just because I am, admittedly, a geek freak for Cab Franc, but also because these wines are stellar examples of why Chile really is that diverse when it comes to wine. Not just that, but one of the wines helps to bolster my claim that Carignan is the best fine red wine grape being grown in Chile at the moment:
Best Other White: Viña Casas del Bosque, Gran Reserva Late Harvest Riesling 2015  (Right? Right?!?? I’ve had my fair share of underwhelming Chilean Rieslings, and this is definitely not one of those).
Best Sparkling: Viña Undurraga, Undurraga Rosé Royal N/V (Admit it, you didn’t expect bubbles to show up here… Further proof, as if we needed it, that the sea-breeze-infused Leyda Valley is one of Chile’s most dynamic areas).
Best Syrah; Best in Show: Viña Casas Del Bosque, Gran Reserva Syrah 2015 (These guys have been doing some interesting things with Syrah for a long time, actually).
Best Carignan/Secano: Luis Felipe Edwards, LFE100 CIEN Carignan 2012
Best Other Red: Viña Valdivieso, Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2013
Best Red Blend: Viña Cousiño Macul, Lota 2011
Obligatory trolley car ride
Cheers!
Grab The 1WineDude.com Tasting Guide and start getting more out of every glass of wine today!
Shop Wine Products at Amazon.com
Copyright © 2016. Originally at Chile’s Finest, Via San Francisco (Wines of Chile Awards 2017 Winners) from 1WineDude.com – for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers! Source: http://www.1winedude.com/chiles-finest-via-san-francisco-wines-of-chile-awards-2017-winners/
from Linda Johnson https://meself84.wordpress.com/2017/11/22/chiles-finest-via-san-francisco-wines-of-chile-awards-2017-winners/
0 notes
hernehillandy · 6 years
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New York sightseeing: Manhattan’s wine bars
A LONG Easter weekend in New York without the family, to see Bruce Springsteen's Broadway show: obviously, I had serious eating and drinking to do. New York's wine bar culture is well developed: there's a huge choice, with something of a recent vogue for more casual (by New York standards) natural wine-focussed bars, such as the much-lauded Four Horsemen, and June, both in Brooklyn.
Since I was staying in TriBeCa, however, I decided that I couldn't be bothered to schlep outside Manhattan or beyond Midtown. The following were the favourite wine bars I visited in that zone.
Terroir,  24 Harrison St, (212) 625-963. Subway: Franklin St. This TriBeCa wine bar was the most low-key of the ones I visited - really a fairly simple bar - but it's a lot of fun. Terroir's wine list is longish and idiosyncratic: evidently a reflection of personal passions. So there are plenty of rieslings, some spätburgunders, a range of Château Musar vintages (the 1978 is $410) and the largest collection of Madeiras I've ever seen in one bar. On the other hand, coverage of regional France, for example, is pretty patchy.  
I stuck with the offbeat theme, starting with a Viñátigo Marmajuelo 2016, Islas Canarias, an unusual white from Tenerife: wonderful minerality, richness and depth. Staying in the Canaries, I enjoyed Frontón de Oro "Malpaís" 2014, Gran Canaria: a high-altitude red made from local listán and tintilla grapes, spicy with a strong iron/mineral character, highly individual.
Finally - and since it was about midnight by this point - I couldn't resist a flight of Madeiras (middle right, above): a horizontal tasting of four Broadbent 10 year-olds, each from one of the main Madeira grapes - sercial, verdelho, boal and malmsey. A rare late-night treat.
Maialino, 2 Lexington Ave (in Gramercy Park hotel). Tel (212) 777-2410. Subway: 23rd St, 6 train. There are several reasons to love this upscale restaurant and wine bar: the fabulous Roman food; a relaxed but classy vibe; the long, light bar (middle left, above) with views out to Gramercy Park. But its glory is its astonishing Italian wine list, one of the largest and most comprehensive I've ever seen.  
Granted, it's not cheap, but if you're looking for a vertical of Antoniolo Gattinaras going back to 1964 (the '64 is $400/bt) you've come to the right place. Partial to large-format Frank Cornelissen Etna reds? Well there are four different vintages en mag plus a jeroboam to choose from.
More modestly, there around 35 wines by the glass. I kicked off with a sublime Ottaviano Lambruschi "Costa Marina" vermentino, Colli dei Luni 2016: rounded but with lovely freshness and gorgeous layers of fruit. Staying in Liguria, I moved on to Maccario Dringebberg “Luvaira” 2016, Rossese di Dolceaqua, an unusual Ligurian red (OK, I admit it: I haven't seen a red from the region before) - spicy, savoury, and frankly amazing with my malfatti (pasta rags, top left, above) with suckling pig and arugula. Which was, incidentally, the best pasta I've had in a long time.
I finished with Mauro Franchino's beautiful Gattinara 2012 - pure elegance in its old-vine nebbiolo fruit, grippy, subtle minerality with a hint of bitterness, great length.
My only tiny criticism would be that among the sparkling wines on the list, there is just one Franciacorta, and that only available by the bottle. But it's a quibble after a lunch that made me blissfully happy. Prices are quite high, though they include service - Maialino is a non-tipping restaurant.
Aldo Sohm Wine Bar, 151 West 51st St (between 6th and 7th aves). Tel (212) 554-1143. Subway: 50th St, 1 train/7th Ave/49th St. Austrian sommelier Aldo Sohm's wine bar is a sleek Midtown joint. It's a slightly odd space, with a high ceiling and no windows, with high tables gathered around a nice couch area: I found it soothingly upscale. It serves pretty good if pricey bar snacks.
Sohm offers around 35 wines by glass. The main list has a good Austrian section, unsurprisingly, and otherwise covers the bases with a few unusual touches (eg Domaine Mas Blanc Cuvée de la St Martin 1979, Banyuls - though that's $40 a glass...)
I enjoyed Alexandre Avantangelos's T-Oinos Avgoustiatis/Mavrotragano 2011, Cyclades, an unusual Greek red from Tinos. It's 70% mavrotragano/30% avgoustiatis: soft, well balanced with acidity and chewy tannins; nice herbal and savoury notes. And I loved Benedikt Baltes Buntsandstein Spätburgunder 2015, Franken (bottom right above): weight and depth in a great vintage, cool and restrained yet smooth, attractive mineral notes, long.
Corkbuzz, 75 9th Ave, in Chelsea Market. Tel (646) 237-4847. Subway: 14th St/8th Ave. (another branch at Union Square/13th St) Corkbuzz makes a fine stopover after trip to the High Line, tucked away in the middle of Chelsea Market's warren of bars and restaurants. It's pretty casual, funky background music, thirtysomethings: not a bad vibe.
It offers about 35 wines by glass and prices are more moderate than many in NYC. There are daily specials too. The full list has offers pretty reasonable coverage though it's far from exhaustive; the US selection is its strongest.
I started with a glass of Domaine Barmès-Buecher riesling "Tradition" 2016, Alsace (bottom left, above) a fine late-afternoon sharpener: fresh, crisp with a little weight. I moved on to Linden “Mon Père” pinot noir 2015, Williamette Valley - a lean, clean Oregon pinot, lots of fresh red fruit.
Wined Up, 913 Broadway, 2nd floor (between 20th/21st Sts). Subway: East 23rd St (another branch at Union Square.) Wined Up, upstairs from sister restaurant Punch, is an appealingly intimate, low-lit spot. There's a backlit bar at the back, and tables towards the windows with a wall of wine bottles down one side.
Prices are reasonable: the white wines by the glass, for example, kick off with the ever-reliable Feudi di San Gregorio 2015, Falanghina at $12, which seems to be about as cheap as a glass gets in non-dive NYC these days. The 25 or so wines by the glass are all priced at $12-16.
For wine geeks, however, the most intriguing part of Wined Up's offering is the list of bin ends which it inherited from a previous incarnation: several dozen mostly US bottles, many of them improbably old vintages, at knockdown prices. I couldn't resist the Elizabeth Spencer Special Cuvée grenache 2007, Mendocino County: sweet grenache fruit, balsamic notes, rounded tannins - on the downslope but very enjoyable (and a bargain at $39/bt; top right above).
10 April 2018
0 notes
static-pouring · 7 years
Text
Chile’s Finest, Via San Francisco (Wines of Chile Awards 2017 Winners)
[ Editor’s note: Yes, I realize that tomorrow is Thanksgiving in the USA. No, I don’t feel compelled to write about wine pairings for it, because that topic has been covered, and covered, and covered, and covered, and covered already. If you’re really jonesing for Turkey Day wine help, see previous coverage of that here on 1WD, all of which is still relevant. ]
Every once in a while, I get asked to do really cool things, like judge wine competitions alongside bright, interesting, qualified people who, for reasons that I still don’t fully understand, consider me a peer.
Evan Goldstein, MS, surveys the room during the AWoCA 2017 judging
Such was the case a couple of months ago, when my friend Evan Goldstein (and his Full Circle Wine Solutions biz) asked if I’d be interested in judging the 2017 incarnation of the Anual Wines of Chile Awards, held this hear in his native San Francisco. I’ve worked with Evan and FCWS a few times before, who are top-notch, and we know that Evan knows his shiz when it comes to South American wines in general, so of course I said Hellz Yeah to that.
The winners of the 2017 AWoCA (now in its 14th incarnation) were recently announced at an event in Washington DC, and so I am now officially able to share highlights of the results with you.
What I found most exciting during the unfolding of the AWoCA competition, even more so than the high quality of Chile’s vinous wares in general, was how well Chile’s much-touted diversity was on full, 4KHD-tuned-to-vibrant-color-settings display in the wines that were entered…
First, here are the top-scorers in what many would now consider the usual suspects categories when it comes to Chilean wine:
Best Sauvignon Blanc: Viña Haras de Pirque, Albaclara Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Best Chardonnay: Luis Felipe Edwards, Marea Valle de Leyda Chardonnay 2016
Best Pinot Noir: San Pedro, 1865 Selected Vineyard Pinot Noir 2016
Best Cabernet Sauvignon under $20: Viña Requingua, Puerto Viejo Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Tough day at the office…
Next, a taste of Chile’s more expensive red side of things, which, yeah, technically has been going on for many years, but I think is just recently being accepted into the general social consciousness as being ok, like the way that we all just decided that The Rock was a funny actor:
Best Cabernet Sauvignon $20-$50: Viña Maipo, Protegido Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Best Cabernet Sauvignon over $50; Best in Show: SANTA EMA, Catalina 2014
Best Carménère $25 and over: San José de Apalta, Carménère Blue Label 2015
My view from Luis Felipe Edwards, back in 2016
Finally, here are the sides of Chilean that you probably were not expecting. For me, they happen to be the most exciting; not just because I am, admittedly, a geek freak for Cab Franc, but also because these wines are stellar examples of why Chile really is that diverse when it comes to wine. Not just that, but one of the wines helps to bolster my claim that Carignan is the best fine red wine grape being grown in Chile at the moment:
Best Other White: Viña Casas del Bosque, Gran Reserva Late Harvest Riesling 2015  (Right? Right?!?? I’ve had my fair share of underwhelming Chilean Rieslings, and this is definitely not one of those).
Best Sparkling: Viña Undurraga, Undurraga Rosé Royal N/V (Admit it, you didn’t expect bubbles to show up here… Further proof, as if we needed it, that the sea-breeze-infused Leyda Valley is one of Chile’s most dynamic areas).
Best Syrah; Best in Show: Viña Casas Del Bosque, Gran Reserva Syrah 2015 (These guys have been doing some interesting things with Syrah for a long time, actually).
Best Carignan/Secano: Luis Felipe Edwards, LFE100 CIEN Carignan 2012
Best Other Red: Viña Valdivieso, Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2013
Best Red Blend: Viña Cousiño Macul, Lota 2011
Obligatory trolley car ride
Cheers!
Grab The 1WineDude.com Tasting Guide and start getting more out of every glass of wine today!
Shop Wine Products at Amazon.com
Copyright © 2016. Originally at Chile’s Finest, Via San Francisco (Wines of Chile Awards 2017 Winners) from 1WineDude.com - for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers! Source: http://www.1winedude.com/chiles-finest-via-san-francisco-wines-of-chile-awards-2017-winners/
0 notes
cacophonyofolives · 7 years
Text
Chile’s Finest, Via San Francisco (Wines of Chile Awards 2017 Winners)
[ Editor’s note: Yes, I realize that tomorrow is Thanksgiving in the USA. No, I don’t feel compelled to write about wine pairings for it, because that topic has been covered, and covered, and covered, and covered, and covered already. If you’re really jonesing for Turkey Day wine help, see previous coverage of that here on 1WD, all of which is still relevant. ]
Every once in a while, I get asked to do really cool things, like judge wine competitions alongside bright, interesting, qualified people who, for reasons that I still don’t fully understand, consider me a peer.
Evan Goldstein, MS, surveys the room during the AWoCA 2017 judging
Such was the case a couple of months ago, when my friend Evan Goldstein (and his Full Circle Wine Solutions biz) asked if I’d be interested in judging the 2017 incarnation of the Anual Wines of Chile Awards, held this hear in his native San Francisco. I’ve worked with Evan and FCWS a few times before, who are top-notch, and we know that Evan knows his shiz when it comes to South American wines in general, so of course I said Hellz Yeah to that.
The winners of the 2017 AWoCA (now in its 14th incarnation) were recently announced at an event in Washington DC, and so I am now officially able to share highlights of the results with you.
What I found most exciting during the unfolding of the AWoCA competition, even more so than the high quality of Chile’s vinous wares in general, was how well Chile’s much-touted diversity was on full, 4KHD-tuned-to-vibrant-color-settings display in the wines that were entered…
First, here are the top-scorers in what many would now consider the usual suspects categories when it comes to Chilean wine:
Best Sauvignon Blanc: Viña Haras de Pirque, Albaclara Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Best Chardonnay: Luis Felipe Edwards, Marea Valle de Leyda Chardonnay 2016
Best Pinot Noir: San Pedro, 1865 Selected Vineyard Pinot Noir 2016
Best Cabernet Sauvignon under $20: Viña Requingua, Puerto Viejo Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Tough day at the office…
Next, a taste of Chile’s more expensive red side of things, which, yeah, technically has been going on for many years, but I think is just recently being accepted into the general social consciousness as being ok, like the way that we all just decided that The Rock was a funny actor:
Best Cabernet Sauvignon $20-$50: Viña Maipo, Protegido Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Best Cabernet Sauvignon over $50; Best in Show: SANTA EMA, Catalina 2014
Best Carménère $25 and over: San José de Apalta, Carménère Blue Label 2015
My view from Luis Felipe Edwards, back in 2016
Finally, here are the sides of Chilean that you probably were not expecting. For me, they happen to be the most exciting; not just because I am, admittedly, a geek freak for Cab Franc, but also because these wines are stellar examples of why Chile really is that diverse when it comes to wine. Not just that, but one of the wines helps to bolster my claim that Carignan is the best fine red wine grape being grown in Chile at the moment:
Best Other White: Viña Casas del Bosque, Gran Reserva Late Harvest Riesling 2015  (Right? Right?!?? I’ve had my fair share of underwhelming Chilean Rieslings, and this is definitely not one of those).
Best Sparkling: Viña Undurraga, Undurraga Rosé Royal N/V (Admit it, you didn’t expect bubbles to show up here… Further proof, as if we needed it, that the sea-breeze-infused Leyda Valley is one of Chile’s most dynamic areas).
Best Syrah; Best in Show: Viña Casas Del Bosque, Gran Reserva Syrah 2015 (These guys have been doing some interesting things with Syrah for a long time, actually).
Best Carignan/Secano: Luis Felipe Edwards, LFE100 CIEN Carignan 2012
Best Other Red: Viña Valdivieso, Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2013
Best Red Blend: Viña Cousiño Macul, Lota 2011
 Obligatory trolley car ride
Cheers!
Grab The 1WineDude.com Tasting Guide and start getting more out of every glass of wine today!
Shop Wine Products at Amazon.com
Copyright © 2016. Originally at Chile’s Finest, Via San Francisco (Wines of Chile Awards 2017 Winners) from 1WineDude.com - for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers! source http://www.1winedude.com/chiles-finest-via-san-francisco-wines-of-chile-awards-2017-winners/
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twelvebyseventyfive · 6 years
Text
Vineyards of Hampshire tasting: some of England’s best sparkling wines on show
Last week, the vineyards of Hampshire held a tasting showcasing some of the top sparkling wines from this county. Of course, Hampshire is, as a county, a political boundary and doesn’t recognise specific soils or climates, but it does have within its boundaries some very good places for growing wine grapes, and quite a bit of chalk. There were some really superb wines on show, and the average quality – as you can see from my scores – was very high. Here are my notes.
Black Chalk
www.blackchalkwine.co.uk
Jacob Leadley was previously winemaker for Hattingley Valley. He’s now gone out on his own making Black Chalk wines, sourcing grapes from top growers in Hampshire.
Black Chalk Classic 2015 Hampshire, England 49% Chardonnay, 34% Pinot Meunier, 17% Pinot Noir. 12% alcohol. Focused and bright with lovely citrus, a hint of apple and good acidity. Linear and fine with real elegance. 94/100
Black Chalk Wild Rosé 2015 Hampshire, England 41% Pinot Noir, 38% Pinot Meunier, 21% Chardonnay. Pale pink in colour, this is taut, lean and precise with crisp, linear citrus fruit with some red cherry hints. Very nice focus to this wine. 92/100
Black Chalk Wild Rosé 2016 Hampshire, England Bright and linear with lively citrus and grapefruit, with some herbs and nice precision. Subtle red cherry notes. Elegant style. 92/100
Cottonworth
www.cottonworth.co.uk
A relatively new project based on three family-owned vineyards covering 30 acres in the Test Valley. Vines are planted on chalk-rich soils and have done really well in competitions, notably the International Wine Challenge.
Cottonworth Classic Cuvée NV Hampshire, England This is based on the 2014 vintage. 46% Pinot Noir, 45% Chardonnay, 9% Pinot Meunier, with a dosage of 6 g/l. Very linear and bright with a real sense of refinement, and some subtle creamy hints under the citrus fruit. Has delicacy and precision. 93/100
Cottonworth Sparkling Rosé NV Hampshire, England 48% Pinot Meunier, 47% Pinot Noir, 5% Pinot Precoce. Dosage 7 g/l. Refined with lovely pure citrus fruit and subtle raspberry and cherry hints. Such focus and elegance here with nice weight, but also freshness and delicacy. 93/100
Exton Park
www.extonparkvineyard.co.uk
With 22 hectares of vines (55 acres) and a state-of-the-art winery, Exton Park has been turning out some very smart wines. Winemaking is in the hands of Corinne Seely, and the vineyard is planted on the pure chalk of the South Downs. Corinne doesn’t do malolactic fermentation, so the wines have a real keenness to them. Pinot Meunier has been a big success so Corinne says they are going to plant another hectare of it.
Exton Park Brut Reserve NV Hampshire, England 2 years on the on the lees and 2 years on cork. 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay. Taut and keen with high acidity and some subtle toasty notes. Brisk and linear with lemon and herb character on the palate. Very juicy. 91/100
Exton Park Blanc de Noirs NV Hampshire, England 100% Pinot Noir. Linear and taut with high acidity. Precise with some subtle toast, cherry and citrus characters. Pure, linear and very fine. 92/100
Exton Park Blanc de Noirs 2013 Hampshire, England An experimental bottling (just 400 bottles) from a single block of Pinot Noir. Vivid, intense and taut with very high acidity. Piercing lemon and redcurrant notes. Very expressive. 90/100
Exton Park Blanc de Blancs 2011 Hampshire, England This had 3.5 years on lees and 3 on cork. It’s complex, toasty and a bit creamy with nice precise lemony notes, some herbs and a juicy, linear finish. Powerful with complex herb and toast character. 93/100
Exton Park Brut Rosé NV Hampshire, England 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Meunier. Very delicate with sappy, fine green notes on the nose. Lovely precision on the palate with cranberry, raspberry and sweet citrus. Fine. 92/100
Exton Park Pinot Meunier Rosé NV Hampshire, England Sappy and herby with refined cherry fruit and an appealing herbal twist. This is a delicate, pure wine that has a lot of character. 92/100
Hambledon Vineyard
www.hambledonvineyard.co.uk
The core of the Hambledon project is the soil, which is chalk, but not just any chalk. This chalk was part of the Paris basin, and was formed on the seabed some 65 million years ago. It’s the same chalk that is found in the Côtes des Blancs in Champagne, and has a high Belemnite content. With some new plantings in 2018, there are now 200 acres under vine at Hambledon, and the grapes are processed in a beautifully equipped gravity-fed winery. Malolactic fermentation is practised here.
Hambledon Classic Cuvée NV Hampshire, England Based on the 2014 vintage, this is 40% Chardonnay, 31% Pinot Meunier and 29% Pinot Noir. Dosage 7 g/litre. This is really refined. The acidity is pronounced but it is elegant acidity that integrates well with the subtly creamy, herbal citrus fruit, with a twist of apricot and mandarin richness in the background. Very fine. 92/100
Hambledon Classic Cuvée Rosé NV Hampshire, England 90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir, 10g/l dosage. Pale pink in colour. Sappy with nice green hints and some leafiness. Nice bright citrus and cherry notes with some redcurrant. Very lively and expressive. 91/100
Hambledon Première Cuvée NV Hampshire, England 73% Chardonnay, 3% Pinot Meunier, 24% Pinot Noir. 7 g/l dosage. 46 months on less and base wine is 14% barrel fermented. This is compact and refined with nice subtle citrus and pear fruit. Beautiful acidity with a lovely linear, focused palate and subtle toastiness. There’s some richness as well as the freshness, and this is very fine. 94/100
Hattingley Valley
www.hattingleyvalley.co.uk
With 24 hectares (60 acres) of vines across two sites in Lower Wield, Hattingley Valley is a major player in the English sparkling wine scene. Their first vineyard was planted in 2008, so these vines are beginning to get some maturity, and the wines are made in their own dedicated winery. A proportion of the wines are barrel fermented.
Hattingley Valley Classic Reserve NV Hampshire, England Base wine is 2014 with 18% reserve wines. 50% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, 19% Pinot Meunier, 1% Pinot Gris. 7 g/l dosage, 24 months on lees. Lively and bright with an appley edge to the crisp citrus fruit. Very expressive with keen acidity and lovely focus. 90/100
Hattingley Valley Rose 2014 Hampshire, England 60% Pinot Noir, 38% Pinot Meunier, 2% Pinot Noir Precoce. 8 g/l dosage, 24 months on lees. Delicate and expressive with lovely citrus fruit and some toast and subtle cherry notes. Very lively and balanced. 91/100
Hattingley Valley Demi-Sec 2013 Hampshire, England 59% Pinot Noir, 36% Pinot Meunier, 5% Pinot Noir Precoce. 35 g/l dosage, 3 years on lees. Rich nose leads to a palate with sweet appley fruit and some spice. Complex, broad and off dry, this is really effective. 90/100
Hattingley Valley Blanc de Blancs 2013 Hampshire, England 100% Chardonnay, 6 g/l dosage, 4 years on lees. Fresh and vivid with nice purity and some lemony fruit, with a hint of apple. Subtle herbal notes in the background. Fine and nicely expressive. 92/100
Jenkyn Place
www.jenkynplace.com
Simon Bladon moved from Yorkshire to Hampshire in 1997, buying Jenkyn Place, which in previous life had been an important hop farm. He planted his first vines in 2004, and after three subsequent rounds of planting, the vineyard is now complete. The wines are made by Dermot Sugrue.
Jenkyn Place Classic Cuvée 2013 Hampshire, England 62% Chardonnay, 24% Pinot Noir, 14% Pinot Meunier. 9 g/l dosage. Fresh and bright with vivid citrus fruit. Has a very lively character with some herbal notes. Such precision and focus with a juicy personality. 90/100
Jenkyn Place Sparkling Rosé 2014 Hampshire, England 52% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay, 16% Pinot Meunier. Dosage 8 g/l. Pale pink in colour, this is juicy and fresh with subtle cherry and citrus fruit with some fine herbal notes. Very lively. 90/100
Jenkyn Place Blanc de Noir 2010 Hampshire, England 50% Pinot Noir, 50% Pinot Meunier. 7 g/l dosage. This is really lively and expressive with juicy lemony fruit. Has great acidity with some fine herbal hints. Bracing, with keen acidity. 91/100
Raimes
www.raimes.co.uk
Augusta and Robert Raimes are fifth generation farmers in the South Downs, and have planted grapes on the chalky soils of their family farm. The wines are made by Emma Rice at Hattingley Valley, and the results are impressive.
Raimes Classic 2014 Hampshire, England 51% Chardonnay, 29% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier. Gold Medal in the 2019 International Wine Challenge. Lively and fresh with nice citrus and pear fruit. Very juicy, Vivid with some lovely fine herbal hints on the linear palate. Very good. 92/100
Raimes Blanc de Noirs 2015 Hampshire, England 69% Pinot Noir, 31% Pinot Meunier. Compact, taut and lively with linear citrus fruit. Has herby hints as well as a bit of cherry. Very linear and delicious. 91/100
from Jamie Goode's wine blog http://www.wineanorak.com:/wineblog/sparkling-wine/vineyards-of-hampshire-tasting-some-of-englands-best-sparkling-wines-on-show For Fine Wine Investment opportunities check out Twelve by Seventy Five: http://www.twelve-by-seventy-five.com/
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canvasclothiers · 7 years
Text
Chile’s Finest, Via San Francisco (Wines of Chile Awards 2017 Winners)
[ Editor’s note: Yes, I realize that tomorrow is Thanksgiving in the USA. No, I don’t feel compelled to write about wine pairings for it, because that topic has been covered, and covered, and covered, and covered, and covered already. If you’re really jonesing for Turkey Day wine help, see previous coverage of that here on 1WD, all of which is still relevant. ]
Every once in a while, I get asked to do really cool things, like judge wine competitions alongside bright, interesting, qualified people who, for reasons that I still don’t fully understand, consider me a peer.
Evan Goldstein, MS, surveys the room during the AWoCA 2017 judging
Such was the case a couple of months ago, when my friend Evan Goldstein (and his Full Circle Wine Solutions biz) asked if I’d be interested in judging the 2017 incarnation of the Anual Wines of Chile Awards, held this hear in his native San Francisco. I’ve worked with Evan and FCWS a few times before, who are top-notch, and we know that Evan knows his shiz when it comes to South American wines in general, so of course I said Hellz Yeah to that.
The winners of the 2017 AWoCA (now in its 14th incarnation) were recently announced at an event in Washington DC, and so I am now officially able to share highlights of the results with you.
What I found most exciting during the unfolding of the AWoCA competition, even more so than the high quality of Chile’s vinous wares in general, was how well Chile’s much-touted diversity was on full, 4KHD-tuned-to-vibrant-color-settings display in the wines that were entered…
First, here are the top-scorers in what many would now consider the usual suspects categories when it comes to Chilean wine:
Best Sauvignon Blanc: Viña Haras de Pirque, Albaclara Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Best Chardonnay: Luis Felipe Edwards, Marea Valle de Leyda Chardonnay 2016
Best Pinot Noir: San Pedro, 1865 Selected Vineyard Pinot Noir 2016
Best Cabernet Sauvignon under $20: Viña Requingua, Puerto Viejo Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Tough day at the office…
Next, a taste of Chile’s more expensive red side of things, which, yeah, technically has been going on for many years, but I think is just recently being accepted into the general social consciousness as being ok, like the way that we all just decided that The Rock was a funny actor:
Best Cabernet Sauvignon $20-$50: Viña Maipo, Protegido Cabernet Sauvignon 2014
Best Cabernet Sauvignon over $50; Best in Show: SANTA EMA, Catalina 2014
Best Carménère $25 and over: San José de Apalta, Carménère Blue Label 2015
My view from Luis Felipe Edwards, back in 2016
Finally, here are the sides of Chilean that you probably were not expecting. For me, they happen to be the most exciting; not just because I am, admittedly, a geek freak for Cab Franc, but also because these wines are stellar examples of why Chile really is that diverse when it comes to wine. Not just that, but one of the wines helps to bolster my claim that Carignan is the best fine red wine grape being grown in Chile at the moment:
Best Other White: Viña Casas del Bosque, Gran Reserva Late Harvest Riesling 2015  (Right? Right?!?? I’ve had my fair share of underwhelming Chilean Rieslings, and this is definitely not one of those).
Best Sparkling: Viña Undurraga, Undurraga Rosé Royal N/V (Admit it, you didn’t expect bubbles to show up here… Further proof, as if we needed it, that the sea-breeze-infused Leyda Valley is one of Chile’s most dynamic areas).
Best Syrah; Best in Show: Viña Casas Del Bosque, Gran Reserva Syrah 2015 (These guys have been doing some interesting things with Syrah for a long time, actually).
Best Carignan/Secano: Luis Felipe Edwards, LFE100 CIEN Carignan 2012
Best Other Red: Viña Valdivieso, Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2013
Best Red Blend: Viña Cousiño Macul, Lota 2011
  Obligatory trolley car ride
Cheers!
Grab The 1WineDude.com Tasting Guide and start getting more out of every glass of wine today!
Shop Wine Products at Amazon.com
Copyright © 2016. Originally at Chile’s Finest, Via San Francisco (Wines of Chile Awards 2017 Winners) from 1WineDude.com – for personal, non-commercial use only. Cheers!
Source: http://www.1winedude.com/chiles-finest-via-san-francisco-wines-of-chile-awards-2017-winners/
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quenchmagazine · 7 years
Text
Writing in the Ottawa Citizen, food editor and restaurant critic Peter Hum declared that wine and food pairing has “had its day.” “Surely,” Hum snarked, “when every food has been paired with every wine many times over, it’s time to give the thing a rest.”
So RIP wine and food pairing. Thanks for humouring me.
Admittedly, I tend to echo Hum’s sentiments. Don’t get me wrong; I think there are some truly specific — and truly fantastic — wine and food matches (goat cheese and Sauvignon Blanc, Chablis and oysters, Sauternes and foie gras, Port and stilton, Champagne and more Champagne, etc.). Some couplings complement each other like nuts complement bolts. Some offer surprising contrasts, with distinctly different flavour profiles melding together to dance a delicious taste tango. I agree with Hum, however, that things can get out of hand. Either matchings get precise to the point of near impossibility (freshly caught Niagara River rainbow trout must be poached in unoaked Chardonnay from the Niagara River VQA sub-appellation and served with same, with the age of the fish matching within a year of the vintage of the wine), or broad to the point of, well, what’s the point?
While “red wine with red meat and white wine with white meat and fish” is probably one of the oldest culinary rules of thumb, it still might be the most generally reliable. Try that rare grilled steak with a Muscadet or that oyster with some Barolo and you’ll easily understand the merits of “red with red; white with white.” It’s also true that, for the most part, local wines tend to pair with local foods (Crottin de Chavignol and Sancerre, for example). “What grows together, goes together.” (Another handy little saying.)
Where things get tricky is when you try to pair wines to foods coming from countries with no real history of wine production or that use ingredients not typically fused into the gastronomy of wine-producing countries or regions. Pairing wine with Asian cuisine presents one such challenge. The best advice in such a situation might be, “Don’t do it.” But I love a challenge.
While wine production in China dates back almost 5,000 years, most Asian countries have pretty much zilch in the way of a wine industry (snake wine being exempt as it stretches the boundaries of what we might call “table wine” a bit too far). And in case it needs to be emphasized again, sake is technically a beer, so it doesn’t count. It’s true that importing top-flight wines has become something of a big deal in China, but the jury’s still out as to whether these wines are being enjoyed with meals, displayed as status symbols or mixed with pop. In any case, the lack of an Asian “wine culture” isn’t the main reason matching wine with indigenous dishes is a tricky undertaking, but rather, the flavour components themselves.
When it comes to Asian dishes, beverage matching gets challenging simply due to the ingredients being used. Fermented sauces and pastes typically introduce high salinity. Then there’s the (occasionally lip-numbing) spice, and the sweet/sour yin-yang. Combined, they can create some palate histrionics that will send the flavour of almost any wine cowering.
With the possible exception of sushi and sashimi, which tend to be fairly delicate (assuming you haven’t doused it to the point where the dominant flavours come via the salt from soy sauce and sinus-clearing wasabi), most Asian dishes probably play the nicest with beer. But (I know, I know), you’re not big on beer. Fine. Let’s see what we can do.
First things first, as with any cuisine, “Asian food” is not a single dish, so there won’t be a single “go-to” wine (though there might be a go-to style — we’ll get to that). Chinese food itself includes Henan, which differs from Yunnan, which differs from Shanghainese, which differs from Taiwanese and so on. And authentic Chinese doesn’t include chicken balls dipped in a day-glo sweet sauce with the consistency of glue. Japanese, Thai, and Korean cuisine each present more options (and more sub regional variations).
So what will ultimately determine your wine choice will have a bit to do with the actual base ingredient, (e.g., meat or fish) and a lot to do with what that base is being gussied up with (those spices, fruits, fermented pastes, etc.). This isn’t a real radical departure from the usual. A simple grilled chicken breast is indeed white meat, which might prompt you to reach for a white wine. But serve it as Chicken Parmesan, with loads of tomato sauce and grated cheese and you’re likely reaching for vino rosso.
As well, different cooking techniques will open up (or limit, depending on how you look at it) your wine landscape. Wines that work with raw, steamed or poached dishes might not show as well with fried and fatty food. Are you ready for that beer yet?
A quick tour of the Internet (search: Asian+food+wine+helpmeoutwiththis) yielded predictable results, with a zillion sommeliers offering two zillion possibilities. I figured it was time to get a bit systematic, if not scientific, with things. If there were as many Asian wine and food possibilities as there was tea in China (sorry, that was a bit clunky), could I at least isolate some of the most popular Asian dishes and nail at least one popular wine (or wine style) to match, singularly and definitively, with each individual food item? Would one work pretty much with all the edibles?
As much as I was dying to find out, a few roadblocks stood in the way. First, finding authentic Asian cuisine would be a problem. Not so much because there wasn’t any to be had in Toronto, but mostly because I wouldn’t have much of a clue as to what dishes to order (my knowledge of Asian specialties beyond the basics being somewhat — read: completely — lacking). Second, even if I managed to find a resto serving the real deal, the chances of it having much of a wine list would be iffy at best (see my note re: Asian wine culture above). Maybe they’d be authorized for BYOB. Right. A lot of these places don’t even have liquor licenses. Smuggle my own in and hope I don’t get caught? Not out of the realm of the possible. How about just do take out/delivery? This would seem to be the most sensible route. I could pick my own wines and mix and match to my leisure. But nothing’s ever easy, is it?
The wines were no issue. I picked out four based on the Asian food elements I mentioned earlier.
With those criteria in mind, I chose a sparkling Vouvray (the always reliable Chenin Blanc-based Château Moncontour “Cuvée Prédilection” 2011 from the Loire Valley; palate-cleansing bubbles and a hint of sweetness); my “go to” house wine, Cono Sur Bicicleta Viognier 2014 from Chile (exotic and fragrant); a very popular German Riesling (I know, German and popular in the same sentence?), Schmitt Söhne’s Relax Riesling 2013, a Q.bA Mosel that’s light, low alcohol, and off-dry; and a token red, the Nobilo Icon Pinot Noir 2013 from Marlborough, New Zealand (mainly because of the meat dishes). So far, so good. But I still needed guidance when it came to the food to order. Luckily, help was on hand in the form of one of Quench’s contributors, Silvana Lau.
Chinese by descent, she knows her way around Asian cuisine and Toronto’s Asian food floggers. And she’s got pretty much a pro palate to boot. Having called one of the city’s better Thai joints the night before to confirm it delivered, a slight note of panic crept into her voice as we attempted to place an order we had spent a good 20 minutes assembling.
“But you told me yesterday that you did and it says you do on your website!” she countered when told delivery wasn’t an option (throwing me a WTF? look). “Try our second location,” was the helpful suggestion from the disembodied voice on the other end. “I did and I got a voice message about holiday hours — and this is February — can’t you guys just do a delivery?” Lau strained to interpret the Asian/Anglo banter being exchanged in the restaurant. “You will? Great! … What? … Over two hours? … You’re four blocks away! What? You can’t deliver tonight after all?” Bear in mind, this was a Wednesday, hardly a prime delivery demand day.
Long story short, we finally got delivery from another purveyor, a delivery that included: green papaya salad (Thai spicy), Tom Yum chicken soup, green coconut curry chicken (every time we tried to order seafood we were assured the chicken was the better choice; this did not assure us in any way) and Spicy Beef Noodles. We also nabbed a sushi/sashimi platter from a place a couple doors down (not exactly high-end exotic, but beggars, etc.). So, time to get busy. (As an amusing aside, the first place that wouldn’t/couldn’t deliver was suggested as a great Valentine’s Day Thai delivery option in the following day’s NOW magazine. This must have tested a few lovebirds’ patience, if not the strength of their relationship.)
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Observations on the outcome: nothing really worked well with the sushi/sashimi. The bubbly offered indifference (but sort of at least cast a glance at the vegetable maki). The Riesling was too sweet. The Viognier kind of worked, but only to the extent that it didn’t clobber/get clobbered by the food. We had hopes for the tuna/Pinot Noir combo but the raw fish was too delicate. Tuna charred quickly on a grill might have been a good match but as good as the Pinot was, raw tuna was not its pal.
I’ve paired Sauvignon Blanc-based wines to sushi with some success (the herbal/citrus notes seem to mesh for whatever reason). Tonight’s combos, however, while not epic fails, did not inspire. On to the louder, more aggressive, Thai offerings.
The green papaya salad, with its incendiary spice level, not only obliterated the taste of each wine, but damn near cauterized my palate as well. The Riesling put up a fight but, in the end, it went down in flames. What did work well (no surprise here) was a mouthful of cold, hoppy, Total Domination IPA from Oregon’s Ninkasi Brewing Company. The combination of cold/bitter/bubbles and moderate alcohol zapped numbed taste buds back to life. In fact, the beer was the best match for everything … but back to wine.
The Viognier arm-wrestled the spicy/sweet Tom Yum soup into something akin to submission, with the Riesling doing so in a slightly lesser way. The same tag-team countered green coconut curry chicken respectably, but it was a match with not a lot of real excitement, just a kind of grudging agreement by each party not to kill each other.
Spicy beef noodles, on the other hand, killed all the wines dead. Again, the humble IPA took the dish on with easy grace.
Dejected, but not willing to quit, we sealed up the wines and, a couple days later, got out our chopsticks for Round Two: some traditional Korean and Chinese morsels. Thankfully, things gelled much better this time around, largely because the food in general was less spicy. There were still some sweet elements and the heat was there if you wanted it (by way of addition rather than being part of the dish itself), but overall the intensity level was more manageable than the Thai inferno.
Chinese roast pork belly showed well with pretty much every wine, the nod going to the Pinot (though the Riesling was a strong contender — especially when the sweet, sticky hoisin sauce was added to the mix). Succulent roast duck, with its fatty/crispy skin, also took a shine to the Pinot, with the Vouvray working nicely as well (the bubbles washed away the fattiness and cleansed the palate). A very pure and authentic shrimp wonton soup worked nicely the bubbly as well, though the moderate sweetness of the Riesling did an admirable job of cutting through the saltiness of the broth. Beef Lo Mein, a meat/noodle/broth take out staple (though authentic Chinese), also got along well with the Pinot.
Korean dishes including bibimbap (a traditional dish that includes rice, noodles, vegetables, a fried egg, beef, chili pepper paste, and soy sauce) and a kimchi seafood pancake (see Culture Club on page XX for more info on kimchi) also turned out to be surprisingly grape-friendly. The former dish’s mélange of flavours, textures and mild heat provided a perfect playground for the mildly earthy, sparkling Vouvray. The latter intermingled nicely with both the Pinot and the Viognier, with the tangy kimchi weaving exotic flavour tendrils around the fruit core and acidity of each wine (another one of those food “rules:” acidic foods and slightly acidic wines get along — the acids tend to soften, rather than build, on each other).
Verdict: Thai food’s best friend is cold, crisp, hoppy beer. In general, there’s too much heat and too much going on to work with most wines. Go delicate with Japanese sushi and sashimi — light, white and crisp. Chinese and Korean foods seem to be the most wine-friendly, with flavour combinations that are a bit less busy than Thai, and not as volcanic.
Wine and food pairing dead? Nah. It can be a lot of fun to experiment. It’s also a great excuse for exploring ingredients and food preparation techniques that might not normally pop up on your epicurean radar … and washing the results down with a good glass of grape (or three).
Everything you need to know about what to pair with Asian cuisine Writing in the Ottawa Citizen, food editor and restaurant critic Peter Hum declared that wine and food pairing has “had its day.” “Surely,” Hum snarked, “when every food has been paired with every wine many times over, it’s time to give the thing a rest.”
0 notes